Gerberas on your site. Indoor gerberas require additional nutrition and enrichment of the substrate with various macroelements, depending on the phase of development

How to preserve begonia tubers until spring? If the begonia was grown from purchased tubers whose size is more than 3 cm, it is given a dormant period from the end of November to mid-February. If tuberous begonia is grown from seeds or by cuttings from the leaves of an adult plant, it does not need a dormant period. Storing begonia tubers in winter period depends entirely on the age of the plant and the size of its tuber. How to prepare a plant for winter? What to do with young tubers? All questions are answered experienced flower growers.

How to store begonia tubers at home?

Rest period tuberous begonia starts in mid-November and lasts until mid-February. However, you need to prepare for it in advance. If the plant blooms, experts recommend regularly removing faded flowers. If begonia lays new buds in September, they should be cut off without regret. Why? The flower soon enters a dormant period, and after flowering the tuber weakens.

How to preserve adult begonia tubers?

Here we'll talk about plants whose age exceeds 2 years, and the tuber size is at least 3-4 cm in diameter. The storage conditions for first-year begonias in winter are somewhat different.

In September-October, many begonias' leaves begin to wither and dry out.. This is a natural process. In this way, the plant prepares to go to sleep in winter. What to do? If the pot is on glass loggia and balcony, it is brought into the house if there is a threat of night frost. Optimal temperature during the day +10...+15 degrees, at night - not lower than +5 degrees. If begonia was grown in room conditions, it is transferred to a cool place where the temperature does not rise above +15 degrees.

So, preparing begonia tubers for winter begins from the moment the plant’s leaves begin to wither and turn yellow. This happens in September-October. Such leaves are not cut, but wait until they are completely dry. They are simply unscrewed over time without any extra effort.

Important!!! The green leaves of begonia cannot be plucked, thereby forcibly putting the flower to rest. The leaves, when dry, transfer all the nutrients to the tuber. By tearing off all the foliage while it is still green, the grower deprives the tuber of the opportunity to gain mass.

Watering begonias from the end of September to the end of October is significantly reduced.. You need to make sure that the soil is slightly moist. Depending on the temperature, the optimal watering regime is once every 1-1.5 weeks. This humidity regime stimulates the plant to sleep. In conditions of lack of moisture, the leaves will turn yellow faster. At the end of October, watering is completely stopped.

The leaves on the begonia should partially turn yellow at the end of October.. They are carefully removed. If this does not happen, reduce the temperature of the flower.

Begonias do not need lighting during the dormant period.. Moreover, it can harm the flower. Indeed, under direct sunlight, the flower may wake up ahead of time, so the plant, after it has shed all its foliage, must be moved to a dark place. Optimal storage temperature is +5...+12 degrees.

Optimal storage of begonia tubers in winter is carried out in basement, where it is quite cool and dark. If begonia was grown in open ground, it is dug up after the first frost. Without shaking them off the ground, they are laid out in boxes and transferred to the basement. If begonia was grown in pots on the balcony, it does not have to be removed from the ground. After the ground part dies, the flower pots are simply transferred to a dark and cool room. If it is not possible to store it in the basement, it can be a storage room or a space near the balcony.

You can store begonia tubers without soil. To do this, after the above-ground part has died, the tuber is dug out of the ground, dried and placed in a box. You can sprinkle everything with sawdust or peat. It is not recommended to store begonia tubers for the winter. plastic bag. There, the plant’s breathing process is disrupted and condensation accumulates. It is the cause of rotting.

How to store first-year begonia tubers?

Begonia tubers grown from seeds this year do not go to sleep over the winter. In the first year of its life, the plant tries to increase the mass of the tuber, and therefore retains its leaves. If the seedlings developed in open ground, then before the first night frosts the plants must be transplanted into pots and brought into the house.

How to store first-year tubers in winter? They do not shed their leaves and are not laid to rest. They must wait out the winter in a cool and bright place where the temperature does not drop below + 15 degrees. What do experienced flower growers do:

  1. Feeding has been stopped since September.
  2. The buds that the plant lays in September-October must be cut off.
  3. It is necessary to water the first-year begonia tuber as the top layer of soil dries. Watering is carried out along the contour of the pot. Water should not get on the tuber. Optimal mode watering - 1 time per week. It can be done less often if the temperature is within +15 degrees.
  4. Lighting is required. Otherwise, the begonia stems will simply stretch out.
  5. You can store begonia in winter on the east side of the house. But heating devices can dry out the air in this case and raise the temperature environment, and therefore you can put a container of water on the windowsill.
  6. You cannot feed the flower. Although it has retained the above-ground part, it practically does not consume nutrients from the soil, and their excess can lead to rotting of the roots.

In the spring, elongated cuttings can be cut and rooted, but only after the tuber produces new stems.

Gerbera is a native of Africa, therefore it is quite thermophilic. Grows well in greenhouses and conservatories. Not all varieties can be grown in open ground conditions.

On garden plots You can plant specially bred dwarf species. They are less demanding on living conditions.

Gerbera Jameson is most suitable for the garden. She is most resistant to street conditions. It has a short stem and a powerful root system. Through crossing, many varieties of this garden species have been developed.

Unlike indoor ones, garden gerberas grow only up to 30 centimeters in height.

Gerber Wright. Best suited for growing in a greenhouse. Capricious and whimsical, requires good ventilation and regular fertilizers.

Green-leaved. The ancestor of all other species.

Gerber Jameson. It can reach a height of 60 cm, blooms from August to November, and is distinguished by a variety of colors.


Abyssinian. Not too large, with white flowers, sometimes with a reddish tint.


Features of cultivation


This flower, due to its origin, is extremely demanding in terms of conditions. He loves warmth and moisture very much.

This plant does not tolerate frosts, and especially the frosts of the Middle Zone, so it can only be cultivated as an annual. For the winter it is dug up like dahlias or begonias.

Boarding time

It is recommended to plant the plant in open ground when the threat of frost has passed, since even A short-term cold snap can kill the plant. Experienced gardeners It is recommended to tie the timing to the time of planting heat-loving vegetables: cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants. Usually this is the last ten days of May and the first of June. If you plant it later, the flower will not be pleasing to the eye. for a long time.

Landing place

When choosing a location, you need to consider whether it is protected from draft winds. To plant directly in the ground, select a location covered by a fence, earthen hill, wall. This will protect the flower from blowing cold air. You can plant a flower in a shallow depression, provided that water does not accumulate in it.

The area should also receive maximum sun exposure during the day. From the fact how the rays hit it, depends on the growth of the plant.

Soil requirements

Earth mixture for plants light and nutritious is needed. Mix peat, sand and leaf turf in equal parts, add a little crushed pine bark. Place a layer of drainage in the hole. Then fill it with the prepared substrate. You can use special purchased soil for gerberas or roses.

Temperature and humidity for growing


Make sure that the flower does not overcool. Choose a landing time when night and day temperatures are not very different.

If suddenly there is a strong cold snap in the middle of summer, The plant should be covered in the same way as you cover heat-loving vegetables. Prepare a frame of arches and cover the flowers with covering material overnight.

Air humidity with sufficient watering is not important for the flower. But if the gerbera is planted in the shade, it will definitely rot in wet weather. If spring and summer are cool and rainy, treat it with a fungicide.

Watering rules

Especially Gerbera is demanding of moisture during the period of leaf growth and bud set. As soon as the flowers appear. Watering is reduced. During growth when watering monitor the condition of the soil, since this flower does not tolerate either excessive dryness or waterlogging.

Use only warm water for irrigation. If you pour cold liquid on it, it will absolutely get sick and rot.

It should be watered only at the root, avoiding erosion of the soil. When watering, water should not get into the leaf rosettes, as this can cause them to rot.

How to feed?

Gerbera does not tolerate excess organic fertilizers, from them the flower stalks will stretch out and the flowers will be small, and the plant itself becomes vulnerable to diseases.

You can feed the plant with mullein 1-2 times per season.

It should be fertilized once in two weeks a weak solution of minerals. Feeding this flower is mandatory, since if the nutritional system is disrupted, its decorative effect is reduced. It is recommended to use complex mixtures for ornamental flowering plants. After flowering, feeding is stopped.


The gerbera will tell the grower about a lack or excess of any substances by a change in appearance:

  • Poor flowering light tone young and purple border on old leaves - lack of nitrogen.
  • Active growth of leaf mass to the detriment of flowering is an excess of nitrogen.
  • The leaves become smaller, lose their shine, and turn brown at the edges - lack of phosphorus.
  • Wrinkling of foliage and shredding of inflorescences is a lack of potassium.
  • Yellowing of leaves, their fragility, blackening of roots - low concentration of lime in the soil.
  • Golden veins on the leaves, elongation of leaf petioles, and later wrinkling of the leaves are a lack of magnesium.
  • Matte, too dark. Quickly wilting leaves with a matte surface - too much magnesium.
  • Curling of the edges of young leaves upward, deformed, small inflorescences – lack of copper.
  • Slow growth, pale leaves - lack of boron.
  • Drying of the edges of old leaves, their matte tint - excess boron.

Care during the flowering period

The plant blooms from June to August. It blooms after sufficient growth of the leaf rosette. The number and size of flowers depends on the light and air temperature.

If you want your beauty bloomed long and profusely, remove faded inflorescences. This promotes the formation of new buds. Dry stems should be cut as low as possible, otherwise the stumps may rot.

How does it winter?

Before frost, at the end of September, gerbera dug up together with a large earthen lump and plant it in a pot. For the winter it is placed in a cool, dry place.

During the dormant period, water several times, slightly moistening the soil.

Wintering it in the basement would be ideal. If there is no basement, find a dark, cool place for it, for example, under balcony door. Plant the flower in open ground as soon as the threat of frost has passed.

Greenhouse growing technology


Greenhouse – perfect place for growing gerbera. In its conditions, you can adjust the temperature: about 25 degrees in summer, 20 in autumn and spring, 16-17 in winter.

Flower grows well in direct sunlight, but provided that the light entering the greenhouse does not overheat it. On very hot days, it is better to shade the flowers from noon to 16:00.

Greenhouse ventilate regularly without allowing drafts. Humidity control is one of the necessary conditions, since gerberas cannot tolerate high humidity. But dry air is contraindicated for them. Optimal humidity in the dry season is maintained by spraying, not the plants themselves, but the space next to them.

They drop her off V plastic containers or individual pots. To maintain the nutritional value of the substrate, regular transshipment is carried out. The soil should consist of peat, forest or field soil, sand, sawdust, and pine bark.

IN winter time for gerberas a period of rest is necessary. The temperature is reduced and fertilizing is stopped. These procedures will help gerbera gain maximum amount buds.

Soil is necessary loosen, remove dried leaves from plants, discard diseased plants immediately.

The ideal watering method is drip irrigation. If this is not possible, each specimen is watered with a hose at the root, but not close to the stem. Watering is done in the morning so that any water that accidentally gets on the leaves and root collar evaporates within a day.

In a greenhouse, gerberas are grown as biennial plant. If you leave the specimen for the third year, the quality of flowering decreases.

How to keep cut flowers in a vase longer?


Grow perennial gerbera with large flowers in the garden is not easy, but also to preserve cut flowers long time also the task is not easy. To ensure that a cut flower pleases the eye for as long as possible, experienced flower growers recommend doing the following:

  • Flowers are cut 4-5 days after blooming. If you do it earlier. A weak stem will cause rapid wilting. The peduncle is separated from the bush in the morning by breaking it off with your hands, since when cut, the bush may rot at the cut site.
  • Before placing the plant in water, you need to let it settle to remove oxygen from the liquid.
  • Immerse the stems in the prepared water so that only the flowers remain on the surface. Keep them in this state for half an hour.
  • Trim the stems from the bottom to 3-4 centimeters without removing them from the water. The cut should be made with a sharp knife at an angle of 45%. Pruning should be done every 2-3 days.
  • Flowers should be placed in tall vases to reduce the pressure of heavy flowers on the stem.
  • The water in the vase should be changed regularly. Moreover, it must be free of chlorine, so it must be settled and filtered before use. To neutralize chlorine impurities, add a little activated carbon or citric acid to the water.
  • Adding mineral fertilizer will also help maintain the freshness of the flower.
  • Do not place the vase in the sun or near a radiator. Cut flowers should be kept in a cool place.
    Some growing secrets:
  1. Do not bury the root collar when replanting - this will slow down growth.
  2. Plant in sterilized soil, and to prevent infection, treat the plant with phytosporin.
  3. In damp weather, treat with foundationazole.
  4. When grown from seeds, the daylight hours should be at least 16 hours. And the air temperature is 22-23 degrees. As soon as the cotyledons open, reduce the temperature to 20 degrees.
  5. The most common mistake– overfeeding a flower will definitely cause plant disease.
  6. Do not water in the evening to prevent overcooling of the roots.

The beauty and diversity of this flower can attract the most sophisticated gardener. Therefore, it is worth making so much effort to admire it. Follow all the growing rules, and garden gerbera will delight you with its flowering.

Useful video

In this video you will learn more about the plant:

Gerbera is like a piece of bright sunshine in the house. They are liked by almost all flower lovers, but few gardeners decide to grow them in the garden. Because these heat-loving plants They don’t spend the winter in our open ground.

Blooming gerberas always create a good mood and invariably attract admiring glances - both at home and in the country. Therefore, I cannot deny myself the pleasure of having at least two or three gerbera bushes in my apartment and garden.

Growing gerbera from seeds

Hybrid gerbera seeds are available in seed stores; purchasing them is not a problem. They are growing well.
However, even if gerbera seeds are sown very early, the seedlings do not have time to bloom in the year of planting. Therefore, bushes of young gerberas grown from seeds have to be dug up from the garden in the fall and replanted in pots in order to grow.

From the sown seeds of a hybrid gerbera, compact bushes with openwork inflorescences with narrow petals of various colors grow (see photo below).


In the photo: seedlings of Jameson's hybrid gerbera bloom in the garden

Gerbera seedlings usually bloom in the second year of life and bloom in waves throughout the summer, but not very profusely. Then in the fall they need to be dug up again and moved indoors for the winter. I don't always manage to keep them at home in winter.


In the photo: hybrid gerberas bloom in my garden

But I do not advise those gardeners who visit their dacha only once a week to plant gerberas in the garden - after all, these plants are very demanding on regular and dosed watering. If there is a lack of soil moisture, gerbera leaves immediately begin to wither and dry out. And if there is excess moisture in the soil, then the neck of the gerbera leaf rosette rots.

In the fall, I again transplant the gerbera bushes from the garden into pots.
First I keep the plants on cold veranda. I spray gerberas (at the same time as other house flowers) with Fitoverm - twice with an interval of 3-4 days. And then I put the pots with gerberas in the garage cellar, where they overwinter with and.
Sometimes it happens that a gerbera overwintering in the cellar disappears - the bush rots or dries out (after all, there is no constant care for the plants there).

True, I noticed that the gerbera that overwintered in the cellar next year It will no longer bloom so profusely - apparently, the plant is devoting all its energy to summer flowering and wintering. That's why I traditionally buy a new plant in the spring; Fortunately, flowering gerberas are now available and not very expensive.

I especially love gerberas with yellow flowers, because after a gloomy winter we so miss the sun and bright colors! And since early spring I have already been pleased with the blooming yellow gerbera - a piece of sunshine on my windowsill. And in the summer at the dacha bright flowers gerberas will not get lost among the abundance of other flowers.

Good luck to you!

Natalya Popova (Volgograd)
http://mysad34.ru

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Garden gerbera (lat. Gerbera) – perennial herbaceous plant family Asteraceae (Asteraceae). The plant is very popular in home and garden floriculture.

Bushes are compact, sheet plates neatly collected in a rosette. The leaves are pinnately dissected with pointed tips, the length is about 35 cm, the surface is leathery, iridescent. In some leaves, the base of the leaflets and petioles may be heavily pubescent.

The flowering stem extends 30-60 cm, and large basket-shaped inflorescences bloom at the top. The flowers themselves are similar to daisies, reach 12-16 cm in diameter, and can be single, semi-double or double.

The modest gerbera fascinates with its hypnotic beauty, and planting and caring for the plant is not difficult.

Originally from hot Africa and Madagascar, some species can be found in the tropics of Asia. By the way, other beautiful daisies were also brought from Africa - garden flowers similar to gerberas - .

When does gerbera bloom?

Gerbera flowers bloom in early spring and end their beauty parade with the onset of severe autumn cold.

Gerbera for cutting: how to do it right

Gerbera flowers remain fresh for a long time after cutting. But they should be cut correctly, or rather, the flowering stem should be carefully twisted out of the socket. If you cut or leave part of the peduncle on the bush, this threatens complete rotting of the plant left so.

Growing garden gerbera from seeds for seedlings

When to plant

To get strong flowering bushes this season, you need to grow gerbera seedlings in the fall. Gerberas should be sown as seedlings in October-November, so that gerberas planted in open ground will bloom in July-August.

If you sow gerberas in January-March, you will not see flowering this season. Don’t be upset: plant ready-made seedlings in the garden, and in the fall transfer them to pots and keep them until next spring (more on this below).

How to plant

  • We take seedling cassettes, fill them with loose nutritious soil mixture (there are special compositions for growing seedlings), place the seeds one at a time in a cell, helping ourselves with a toothpick, and deepen them no more than 3 mm.
  • Spray with a fine spray.
  • The optimal air temperature for seed germination is at least 18 °C; to maintain the required level of humidity and temperature, cover the crops with glass or film on top.

  • The germination process takes about 2 weeks; in the future, grow without film cover.
  • Maintain diffused bright lighting for at least 12 hours (be sure to provide additional illumination with phytolamps), do not forget to ventilate, and spray the crops if necessary.
  • We transfer the grown plants into larger pots.
  • When real warmth sets in with night temperatures above 12°C, transplant the gerbera into open ground.

Please note that flowering will occur in 10-11 months, so do not be surprised that flower stalks do not appear in the first year if you are late in sowing the seedlings. Also, during seed propagation, varietal characteristics may be lost if cross-pollination occurs.

Selecting a site and planting garden gerberas

Light and soil

For heat-loving gerberas, be sure to select an open, sunny area without drafts; flooding and stagnation of moisture are contraindicated if they are located close together. groundwater you will need to make the bed elevated.

Regarding the soil: it should be loose and nutritious, good drainage is important.

Transplanting

We transplant into open ground when the soil warms up enough and real warmth is established. Dig up the area, make planting holes according to the size of the root system and roll over the bushes along with the earthen ball; the root collar should be 1.5-2 cm above the soil surface. Keep a distance of about 20 cm between individual plants.

Gerbera is susceptible to fungal diseases, so before planting it is advisable to treat the soil with special preparations.

How to care for garden gerbera

Cute appearance and bright, long-lasting flowering are not the only advantages of the plant; gerbera grows and develops quickly and is notable for its ease of care.

How to water

During active growth Regular and abundant watering is required; during the dormant period (when transplanting into a pot), water moderately. When watering, maintain a balance; drying out the soil negatively affects the condition of the plant, as does waterlogging. Use water at room temperature, add it carefully, trying not to get it on the leaves; under no circumstances should the leaf rosette get wet.

Loosening and weeding

Pull out weeds and periodically loosen the soil.

To maintain growth and flowering, apply complex fertilizers every two weeks. mineral fertilizers in liquid form.

Garden gerbera in autumn

IN natural environment gerbera grows in mild, warm climates with long, hot summers. In central Russia it is grown seasonally, i.e. Planted in open ground during the warm season, it can be grown as an annual. In regions with warm winters (air temperature not lower than +10°C), the plant is left to overwinter in open ground, covered with straw or dry leaves.

Garden gerbera: how to preserve in winter

If you want to save the plant for the winter, dig up a bush in the fall and plant it in a spacious container (its size is commensurate with the size of the plant). At the bottom, lay a drainage layer consisting of expanded clay, for example, ordinary small pebbles and clay shards will also be used. The following soil mixture is perfect for winter maintenance: two parts each of leaf soil and peat and one part sand. When transplanting, place the root collar a few centimeters above the soil surface.

Winter care for gerberas is as follows:

  • Keep the container with gerbera in a cool (7-8 °C) and well-ventilated area.
  • There is no need to feed, occasionally spray the soil surface, provide diffused lighting.

Diseases and pests

Unfortunately, bright gerbera The garden is quite often exposed to diseases and pests, but the root cause lies in improper care. The crop is affected by a fungal infection, leading to rotting of the root system. This is caused by prolonged waterlogging of the soil; perhaps the soil was already contaminated. Water moderately, provide drainage, and for preventative purposes, treat the soil with an appropriate preparation before planting.

High humidity causes powdery mildew. Treat the plant with a fungicidal preparation, but keep in mind that if the solution gets on the leaves, unsightly spots will remain.

If the air humidity is high and the bushes are poorly ventilated - ideal conditions for the development of powdery mildew. Treatment with a preparation containing sulfur will be required.

Dangerous pests of gerbera are spider mites, aphids, and thrips. The plant will have a depressed appearance, the leaves will begin to turn yellow, and whitish cobwebs (traces of vital activity) can be found on their surface. spider mite), various punctures and dark spots (these are the “tricks” of sap-sucking insects), aphids can be seen with the naked eye. First, treat the bushes with a soap solution; in extreme cases, treat them with an insecticidal preparation (anabasine sulfate, nicotine sulfate, and others are effective against aphids).

How to propagate garden gerbera

Vegetative propagation of gerbera is the most common method, which involves dividing the bush. Wait until the bushes reach the age of 2-3 years; the division procedure should be carried out in April-May.

  • We carefully divide the bush into several parts, each of which should contain a part of the rhizome with growth buds and 2-3 leaves; the roots should be trimmed to a length of 10 cm.
  • We plant them in holes at a distance of 25-30 cm and grow them all summer in open ground.

Of course, growing gerbera under conditions middle zone Russia comes with some troubles, but in return we get neat bushes, blooming all season. These large, colorful flowers, reminiscent of daisies, will decorate not only the garden, but also the windowsill.

Gerbera in landscape design

Compact gerbera bushes are used for framing garden paths, in border plantings, you can use plain color scheme or play with shades.

When grown in containers or garden pots gerbera becomes mobile (portable decoration): place it on the balcony, veranda, in any corner of the garden.

Gerbera is so good that she doesn't need neighbors. Pairs perfectly with calendula.

If desired, combine with decorative foliage plants (for example, heuchera, heucherella, cereals and conifers.

Perennial garden gerberas: varieties with photos and names

The species was discovered by Carl Linnaeus, and the varietal diversity was expanded by the Dutch botanist-breeder Reman.

There are more than 100 varieties, allowing you to fill your garden with the brightest colors to suit your taste. The most popular red shades are the varieties Robin Hood, Ruby Amsterdam, Saskia and others. Gerberas of yellow, white, cream, pink shades are in great demand, and lilac ones are no less charming.

Large-flowered varieties with narrow petals:

  • Migar – pleasant pink tint inflorescences;
  • Vega - inflorescences of a sunny orange hue;
  • Algol is a rich cherry shade of inflorescences.

Variety mixture gerberas‘Sweet Collection’ photo

Large flowers of medium petal type:

Mars – flowers of a rich red hue;

Gerbera variety Gerbera ‘Sweet Dreams’ flower photo

Large flowers with wide petals:

Vera, Peter, Almak, Romeo, Saturn, Delios.

Gerbera garden variety Sweet Surprise photo

Small-flowered with narrow petals:

  • Aldebaran - deep pink inflorescences;
  • Alcor - inflorescences of a deep cherry shade.

Double and semi-double flowers with narrow petals:

Kalinka, Viola, Sonya; of the same type, but with wide petals: variety Iskra - dark, deep red color of flowers.

Separately, I would like to note the Wright variety, which is perfectly suitable for landscape design and bouquet arrangements.

Indoor gerbera is a colorful representative of the Asteraceae (Asteraceae) family. There are more than twenty subspecies of the plant. On an industrial scale, gerbera is grown for cutting. The plant retains its decorativeness and freshness well after separation of the roots. The domestic representative of the herbaceous crop is distinguished by long, pointed leaves. A group of vegetative organs forms a rosette at the base of the plant. The long peduncle can reach more than 50 cm in height. One bud is formed on the stem. Size indoor plant does not exceed 30 centimeters. Varieties intended for cultivation in open ground bloom from the beginning summer season Until August. Gerbera can bloom inflorescences at home all year round with minor breaks. After flowering, fruits appear on the plant in the form of seed pods.

Representatives of the Asteraceae family must be protected from drafts.

Microclimatic conditions

The location of the plant should be protected from drafts. While airing, the flowerpot should be taken out of the room. The flower needs good air circulation. Therefore on summer period You can take the culture out into the fresh air.

Temperature

Gerbera comes from South Africa. The exotic representative prefers warm rooms. Ideal temperature for breeding decorative flower- from + 20 to + 25 degrees.

Excessive heat is also detrimental to the flower. Prolonged exposure to the scorching sun can damage the foliage and cause premature wilting of the inflorescences.

Air humidity

The subtropical plant develops well in conditions of high humidity. It is enough to water the crop twice a week. In summer - as needed. It is not advisable to allow the top layer of the substrate to dry out. Stagnant water can damage the delicate roots of indoor gerberas.

The flower prefers high air humidity.

If water gets into the gerbera rosette, the plant may develop fungus or root rot. Safe way watering - through a tray. After half an hour, remove all remaining liquid. Otherwise, the gerbera roots may suffer from excess moisture. It is not recommended to water the plant with cold water.

To create a sufficient level of air humidity, you can spray the liquid on the plant. Droplets of water should fall exclusively on the leaves. To ensure the safety of the crop, you should spray the space next to the flowerpot.

You can leave a container of water near the flower or turn on a humidifier.

Culture transplantation

The optimal time to replant gerberas is the end of February. The container and soil will need to be changed annually. The flower should be removed very carefully. Gerbera has fragile roots. Therefore, you can use the method of transferring an earthen clod.

The neck of the gerbera in a new container should remain above the surface of the substrate. Otherwise, the root system may rot.

An adult plant purchased from a garden nursery needs special care. It is not recommended to replant and water the crop for two weeks. It is necessary to prepare a wide container in advance larger diameter. For replanting you will need to use transport soil.

The nuances of changing the container and substrate can be found in the video:

Gerbera care in winter

In winter, it is not enough for the plant to form buds. natural light and warmth. Can use fluorescent lights to magnify daylight hours. The plant will prolong its decorative effect in the cold season.

In winter, it is advisable to stop feeding the plant and reduce the amount of watering. It is not recommended to allow the soil mixture to dry out.

Heating devices can damage the plant. Therefore, in the cold season, spraying should be continued according to the summer scheme.

Trimming Features

Indoor culture does not require constant pruning. Fading inflorescences must be plucked off. Trimming the stems has a detrimental effect on the further formation of buds. It is not recommended to leave dried flowers on gerberas. The plant will spend a lot of energy on fruit formation. As a result, the growth of the crop and the production of new buds will slow down.

Indoor gerberas should be cleaned as needed.

Outdoor plant

A flowerpot with gerbera can be taken out in the summer open area. The place must be protected from wind, drafts, pests and scorching sun.

Features of cultivation

Substrate

To grow indoor gerbera, you need to prepare loose and breathable soil. There are several options for soil mixtures:

  1. Mix equal parts perlite and softened peat.
  2. Pre-steamed coconut bark must be mixed with peat.
  3. Combine leaf soil with clean soil river sand and peat.
  4. You can use one component - high-moor peat.

Garden representative offices sell ready-made mixtures for indoor crops of the Asteraceae family. It should be taken into account that optimal level Soil acidity should be from 5.5 to 6.

Top dressing

The exotic plant can be fertilized with complex preparations for flowering indoor crops. During the period of active vegetation development, you need to fertilize once every 2 weeks. It is not advisable to use organic components.

Complex preparations for indoor plants can be used as fertilizer.

Container for indoor gerbera

An unglazed ceramic pot is ideal for growing a flower. A high degree of breathability promotes crop development. The container volume should be about one liter.

Typical diseases and pests

Indoor gerbera is a fairly resistant crop to various pests and diseases. The main reason for the appearance of fungal spores is excessive watering of the soil and stagnation of liquid in the substrate. The main danger to gerberas is powdery mildew, fusarium, late blight and gray mold.

Indoor gerbera is affected by a fungal disease.

On initial stage It is necessary to immediately clean the plant from damaged areas. Humidity levels should be reduced. You can increase air circulation by ventilating three times a day. Copper sulfate must be sprayed onto the plant.

As preventive measures you need:

  1. Carefully follow the rules of plant care.
  2. Provide drainage in the container.
  3. Stop fertilizing with nitrogen components.
  4. Regularly monitor the humidity level of the substrate and environment.
  5. Treat the flower with Fitosporin once every two months.

Dry air (below 45%) promotes the appearance of aphids, spider mites, whiteflies and thrips. It is necessary to isolate the pot with the flower and treat the crop with an insecticide. For indoor gerberas, it is advisable to purchase “Fitoverm”.

It is necessary to regularly inspect the culture. On early stages defeat, saving a gerbera is much easier. The soil and container should be thoroughly disinfected before planting.

Reaction to plant

People prone to allergic reactions to asters, dahlias, daisies, daisies, chrysanthemums, buttercups and some varieties of sunflower should avoid growing flowers at home.

The plant can cause:

  1. Frequent sneezing.
  2. Itching of the skin.
  3. Difficulty breathing.
  4. Rhinitis.
  5. Cardiopalmus.
  6. Nausea.
  7. Dizziness.

It is necessary to take an antihistamine and seek help from a medical center.

Indoor gerbera can cause a severe allergic reaction.

Methods of culture propagation

The plant can remain decorative for 4 years. Then you will need to update the gerbera. To do this, you should choose one of the methods.

Propagation by seeds

For distribution indoor culture It is necessary to prepare low pots or wooden boxes in early spring. The container should be filled with turf soil, fine-grained sand and moistened peat.

You need to carefully scatter the seeds onto the surface of the substrate. A thin layer (about 1 cm) must be covered planting material sand.

To evenly moisten the soil, use a spray bottle. Create greenhouse conditions You can use transparent glass or polyethylene. The container must be moved to a lighted room with a temperature of about + 23 degrees.

The first shoots will appear in a week. It is necessary to remove the cover. “Greenhouse” protection will destroy small sprouts.

After the formation of three full-fledged leaves, the gerbera should be planted in a separate container. The first buds will appear in 6 months.

Dividing the bush

For breeding, you should choose a healthy indoor gerbera. During transplantation, you can divide the plant into several parts. Each segment must contain at least 3 growth points.

You will need to cut off some of the roots of the divisions. It is recommended to remove inflorescences and buds. The affected areas should be treated with crushed ash. Babies can be planted in permanent containers. The growing point should remain on the surface of the soil.

Cuttings

The most affordable and easy way reproduction. It is necessary to cut off a cutting from the mother culture. Part of the rhizome and two full leaves should remain on the stem.

Separating cuttings from indoor gerbera.

Before planting, it is necessary to thoroughly moisten the soil. The container should be kept in a warm, well-lit room during rooting.

Why indoor gerbera does not bloom

Achieve abundant flowering indoor culture is very simple. The number of inflorescences depends on the solar illumination of the location of the crop. Even with abundant solar radiation buds may not form.

The main secret of gerbera is the length of daylight hours. For long lasting lush flowering it will be necessary to provide culture with access to sun rays within 12 hours. Flowering can become remontant if the indoor gerbera is illuminated with fluorescent lamps for the required time daily.

If the crop is not given rest, prolonged flowering can weaken the gerbera. In the next growing season the flower will develop lush green foliage and will not form buds.

How to choose an indoor gerbera

The further development of the plant depends on the quality of the transport substrate. You should choose a nursery that specializes in indoor crops.

A high-quality substrate is the key successful cultivation indoor gerbera.

It is necessary to carefully examine the plant. Damaged shoots, yellow leaves and signs of rotting are signs of damaged, low-quality planting material.

You can purchase an adult flower 20 cm high for 790 rubles. The average cost of seeds per package is 0.04 g. is 22 rubles.