Selection of seedlings. How to determine quality planting material? How to choose quality seedlings

Autumn is the time for planting seedlings fruit trees. To update the garden plot, the best time is the period from September to October. It is at this time that the plants are in a state of physiological dormancy and take root in a new place much better.

The main guarantee of further growth and fruiting is right choice fruit tree seedling. Note that almost all trees are suitable for autumn planting, with the exception of overly sensitive varieties that do not tolerate winter period. Such species are peach, apricot, chestnut, cherry, walnut and some varieties of southern plum.
Also, you should not plant fruit trees brought from other climatic zones in the fall.
What fruit trees can be planted in autumn?
Best of all, autumn planting is tolerated by apple trees, pears, cherries, cherry plums, most varieties of plums, mountain ash and mulberry. By the way, many gardeners note an important pattern: trees planted in autumn have more juicy and larger fruits.
How to choose seedlings?
When choosing a seedling with an open root system, special attention should be paid to the roots.
The quality of a seedling with a closed horse system is determined by the condition of the leaves and trunk.
The trunk must be lignified by at least 2/3 of its height, must be solid. A sign that the seedling is ready for winter is the shoots that have finished growing, lignified along the entire length.
Only the crown should be green, in the event that the entire seedling is grassy and green, you should refuse to buy, as it will hurt for a long time and may not take root at all.
The leaves should be without burns and lesions, shiny and leathery, have a dark green color.
The seedling just taken from the greenhouse is more pampered, it will have to be shaded and protected from the wind for about a week.
Buying planting material, pay special attention to the degree of maturation of increments. If the seedlings that you purchase in September have young leaves, then such a seedling was brought from the southern regions, or from abroad, or grown in a greenhouse. It is also possible that the planting material was overfed with nitrogen. Such seedlings do not winter well (the ends of the shoots and whole growths freeze slightly).
It is desirable that the lateral branches of fruit tree seedlings be distributed in different directions, without forming a "one-sided" plant.
The height of the seedlings is also important.
So, an apple tree seedling should not be shorter than 60 cm. There are no such standards for berry bushes, but pay attention to their shoots. The shoots must be dense, the trunk and twigs, like those of tree seedlings, must be at least 2/3 lignified.
On the leaves of shrub seedlings there should be no traces of diseases, pests and suspicious spots. Only minor mechanical damage to the leaves is acceptable.
When buying seedlings, pay attention to the fact that the earth in the bag (or container) is wet.
After buying a seedling, so that the branches do not suffer during transportation, it is worth pulling them closer to the trunk, securing them in this position with twine
If it is not possible to plant a seedling immediately upon arrival at your site, dig it in an inclined position, so that the roots must be in moist soil. Also, the seedling can be additionally watered for reliability.

Every spring and autumn, many gardeners face the problem of choosing seedlings. Someone wants to renew plantings, try a new variety, and someone has acquired land and is laying his first garden. The compliance of the variety with the one declared on the label will remain on the conscience of the seller, but we will determine the quality of the seedlings by ourselves. What should you pay attention to?

The most popular and available seedlings with an open root system. In this case, you will be able to see the state of the roots. At seedlings with closed roots inspect the soil and the bottom of the pot to see if the plant grew in this container or was transplanted there before selling. Own-rooted

The plant's root system usually fills the volume of the container. You also need to pay attention to the trunk and shoots, bark. You should imagine what requirements good seedlings should meet.

Fruit seedlings

Depending on the age, strength of development, as well as the quality of the root system, trunk and crown, the planting material of fruit crops is divided into 2 commercial varieties - the first and second.

To the first grade include seedlings with a well-developed root system, having at least 5 main branches, evenly directed in different directions, without mechanical and other damage; in biennials - at least 30 cm long, in annuals - 25 cm.

The stem of the seedling should be healthy, straight, with a slight bend that does not interfere with normal planting, completely or partially overgrown with pruning wounds. Light superficial damage to the bark is allowed, not affecting the layers of the bast. The thickness of the stem (5 cm higher than the graft) for seedlings in the central and northern zones, as well as in Siberia and the Far East, should be at least 1.5-1.8 cm, in the south - 2 cm, and for undersized and annuals - 1-1.8 cm. Stem height: in the southern, middle and northern zones in vigorous pear and apple trees - 60-80 cm, in weak-growing apple seedlings - 40-50 cm, in pears - 50-60 cm, in apricots and cherries - 60-70 cm, for cherries - 40-60 cm, for plums - 50-60 cm.

It is assumed that the crown of seedlings is well formed, consists of a developed continuation shoot and at least 5 healthy, correctly placed main shoots (with a sparse-tiered and untiered crown, 2 spare shoots) at least 60 cm long in the south and 50 cm in the middle zone. in the Urals and Siberia, as well as dwarf plants in the south, side shoots can be somewhat shorter, but not less than 40 cm. Competitors are allowed in the crown - shoots with sharp corners discharges (less than 40 °) located above the main shoots of the crown.

The indicators of the length of roots and shoots for seedlings in the northern regions are usually less than for the south and the middle zone of the country.

To seedlings of fruit crops of the second grade make somewhat lower requirements: a decrease in the number of roots to 3, and their length - by 5 cm, a slight curvature of the boles, single fresh wounds from cut shoots, a decrease in the number of main branches of the crown by 1 shoot (except for bushy cherries), and their length - by 10 see Also, the absence of a conductor in the crown is also allowed if there are at least 4 main shoots, of which the top one can be used to develop a new continuation shoot.

For seedlings of fruit crops, slight infection is allowed powdery mildew, scab, rust, leaf spots - no more than 2-5%. In no case should there be signs of viral diseases, as well as bacterial burns, moniliosis (monilial burns), milky sheen.

seedlings berry crops

gooseberry seedlings- These are pure-bred plants obtained from cuttings or cuttings of plants not older than 8 years. Their root system consists of 4 skeletal lignified roots at least 25 cm long with darkened bark and a well-developed lobe, and the ground part consists of 3 main branches more than 30 cm long with cut ends not affected by the spheroteca (powdery mildew). Seedlings of the second grade differ only in a decrease in the number of main roots to 3 pieces and their length - up to 20 cm, and skeletal branches - up to 2 pieces with a length of more than 25 cm.

purebred blackcurrant seedlings first grade - one- and two-year-old, red and white - two-year-olds are grown from cuttings and layering of plants not older than 6 years, not infected kidney mite and roughness. The root system of seedlings should consist of 5 skeletal roots at least 20 cm long with a darkened bark and a well-developed lobe. The ground part consists of 2 or more branches running from the bottom of the bush, at least 40 cm long. The requirements for second-grade seedlings are generally similar, but it is allowed to reduce the number of skeletal roots to 3, their length to 15 cm and the number of main branches - up to 2 with a length of more than 30 cm.

Raspberry seedlings must be dry, without mechanical damage, have at least 3 roots with a length of at least 15 cm (first grade) or 10 cm (second grade). The aerial part of the seedlings consists of one shoot. The diameter of the base of the shoots is 1 cm (first grade) or 0.8 cm (second grade). For seedlings with a closed root system, as well as for the Siberian zone, this figure is 0.8 cm or 0.6 cm, respectively, for varieties. Siberia - at least 25 cm). Infection with viruses and phytoplasma of growth, as well as the population of pests (middle midges, bud moth, glass case and stem fly) are not allowed.

The choice of high-quality planting material for ornamental shrubs is a guarantee that the plant will take root well in a new place and become a real decoration of the garden plot.

The time of buying seedlings always depends on the time of planting. In the middle lane, this is early spring (after snowmelt, when the soil is slightly warm). But you can buy and dig seedlings also in the fall, before frost. In general, any seedlings in containers can be bought and planted in the soil from spring to autumn. It is best to buy planting material for ornamental plants in nurseries, greenhouses, and from familiar amateur gardeners.

Seedlings in containers - how to choose the right one

If a seedling is sold with a closed root system, but the earth ball is removed from the container with ease, this means that the plant from open ground was transplanted more recently. And it is still too early to judge how successfully this transplant took place. If the procedure was performed incorrectly, then it is almost impossible to “drink” such a plant (especially thuja or juniper).

It is also worth paying attention to the roots of the plant. If they rise above the soil or crawl out of the drainage hole, it means that the plant is cramped and lacks nutrients. And a lot of small small roots that make their way through the walls of the container, on the contrary, speak of the well-being of the seedling.

Buying seedlings with an open root system

When buying a plant without a container, make sure that the soil around the roots is large enough, firm to the touch, but not dry.

It can almost certainly be said that a plant that does not have small roots at all, but only a few large ones are visible, will take root for a long time and poorly, or even die. A well-developed root system should have many small, fibrous roots that are difficult to shake off the ground.

The root ball of plants without containers should be well tied.

And now let's look at how to choose seedlings of specific plants so that they take root well on your site.

What should barberry seedlings look like?

Barberry seedlings are most often sold in containers. Be sure to check the roots of the plants. The fact is that the barberry does not tolerate waterlogging and can rot. A soft root system should alert you, as should mold or moss on top of an earthen clod. Plant the shrub in a sunny area or in the shade. The barberry is not picky about the soil.

Sometimes barberry seedlings are treated with a special hydrogel, which allows you to maintain the viability of plants until the moment of planting.

Euonymus seedlings - what to look for when buying

The planting material of the euonymus is very diverse: rooted cuttings, root offspring, divisions of the bush. The best planting material is 3-5-year-old bushes, which are sold with a closed root system (in a container). They can be planted from spring to autumn. Euonymus is a photophilous plant, so find a sunny place for it in advance. The seedling easily tolerates planting and quickly starts to grow.

What good buddleia seedlings look like

Buddley is sold as large seedlings, as well as rooted apical cuttings or seedlings. Good cuttings should have 3-4 developed buds. It is advisable to buy a buddle for planting in the ground in the spring, when the bushes start to grow, and always after the risk of return frosts has been eliminated.

How to choose quality elderberry seedlings

The choice of elderberry should be approached especially carefully, because this plant is medicinal and, with proper care, will bring great benefits to its owners. The seedling must be completely healthy, without signs of disease and pest damage. Check the elasticity of the leaves and stems, look inside the container to see if the soil is good. You can plant the plant in spring or autumn.

Elderberry is frost-resistant, tolerates partial shade, does not require special care.

Weigela seedlings - what to look for

Weigela is a compact ornamental shrub that will decorate your garden with its luxurious flowering. It is better to choose plants older than two years, at least 30 cm in height with 4-5 healthy shoots. They will get used to it faster. Also pay attention to whether there are any spots or damage on the branches and leaves. It is better not to take such a copy.

When choosing a weigela, ask the seller if the seedling belongs to winter-hardy varieties. Try to purchase only those plants that are adapted to the climate of your region.

What quality heather seedlings look like

Heather seedlings are sold with open rhizomes and in containers. The second option is more preferable for purchase, because. the plant will experience less stress during planting. At the same time, make sure that the plant has a smooth bark, green shoots and unblown buds. If you see dying shoots, it is better not to buy such a seedling. As for the soil, it should fit snugly against the walls of the container. A small amount of moisture in the earthen coma is acceptable.

Purchased heather seedlings usually have twisted roots, so carefully straighten them before planting.

Hibiscus seedlings - which ones to choose

Varieties garden hibiscus there are many, so you can choose plants with flowers of various shades. It is advisable to buy a hibiscus seedling with a developed root system, strong green leaves and an elastic stem. The best time for planting is spring, so that over the summer the hibiscus gets stronger and grows green mass. Choose a sunny site with fertile soil.

Tree hydrangea - which seedlings will not disappoint

varietal tree hydrangea It is best to buy from reliable sellers. It is recommended to choose a plant with a closed root system: they are more viable and can be planted during the entire growing season and even in autumn. An open-rooted hydrangea should be purchased before planting in the spring.

When choosing planting material, pay attention to the condition of the shoots. They must be well developed and have live buds. The optimal age of hydrangea seedlings is 3-4 years, and the optimal number of shoots is 2-3 pieces.

Derain seedlings - choose and plant according to the rules

Derain is often used for planting hedges. If you also want to create such a composition on the site, choose seedlings no older than 4 years. Such specimens will take root faster and be able to produce more new shoots after pruning. Before planting, the dry roots of the derain should be held a little in water so that the plant is saturated with moisture and easier to endure planting. You can plant plants in spring or autumn in the sun, in the shade or partial shade.

Willow seedlings - do not chase sizes

When buying a willow, the main thing is not to buy a seedling from the southern regions. Such an annual seedling may be similar in size to a two-year-old typical for the middle lane. And two-year-olds with side branches will be similar to our 3-4-year-olds. You should not take such seedlings, because they are not frost-resistant. When buying a willow seedling, you also need to pay attention to the flexibility of the branches. Do not chase the size: large willow seedlings take root worse.

Things to remember when choosing cotoneaster seedlings

When buying a cotoneaster, please note that seedlings with an open root system are best suited for planting in the fall, before the onset of leaf fall, with a closed one - in spring and summer. Choose plants that are about 2 years old and 40-60 cm high. Since cotoneaster does not tolerate waterlogging, check the condition of its roots and the soil in which the seedling is located (it should not be too wet).

Potentilla seedlings - what they should be

Potentilla is planted in spring or autumn in fertile soil. When buying seedlings, it is better to opt for plants in containers. Choose specimens with a compact crown - this is a sign that the plant's root system is properly developed. The roots must be at least 15 cm long. On the branches - live unopened buds. It is better not to buy flowering specimens, because. they may not take root well or even die.

Water Potentilla seedlings directly in containers before planting.

How to buy good hazel seedlings

To enjoy homemade nuts, plant a hazel on the site. For autumn planting, choose seedlings with a well-developed root system. The thickness of the shoots should be at least 1 cm, the length of the roots should be about 50 cm. The best age for planting is 1-3 years. Older copies should not be taken, tk. they may not fit well. You can plant hazel in the spring. Both slender rows of hazel and solitary plantings look beautiful.

Magnolia seedlings - how not to make a mistake with the choice

Magnolia seedlings are best bought in containers. The plant has very fragile roots and when digging they are almost always damaged, which then will necessarily affect the survival rate and development of the seedling. Flowering in this case will also have to wait quite a long time.

A favorable time for planting magnolia is autumn, when the seedlings stop growing. Spring planting is undesirable due to the risk of returning frosts, but many summer residents successfully carry out such a procedure. So here the choice is yours. The main thing is to choose a place for magnolia without drafts and with light, slightly acidified soil.

When choosing juniper seedlings, be careful

It is better to buy juniper seedlings in a container, because this plant does not tolerate transplanting well. The roots of the plant should occupy the entire container in which it grows, and the roots should look healthy and white. Before buying, you need to inspect the branches and make sure that they are fresh, dull, without damage and dried out areas. Optimal Height seedlings - about 40-50 cm.

How to choose good vesicle seedlings

Vesicle - popular deciduous shrub which is easy to trim. Often found in cities because it can withstand adverse conditions environment. Seedlings usually reach a height of 50 cm. When buying, check the condition of the leaves and shoots, inspect the roots. You should be alerted by twisted leaves, bald spots in the crown and the smell of mold emanating from an earthy coma.

Rhododendron seedlings - what to look for

Rhododendron seedlings are bought in spring or autumn. Signs of a healthy bush: smooth leaves without damage, many shoots and strong roots without spots. The height of seedlings is usually 10-15 cm, sometimes - 20-25 cm (in plants grown from cuttings). It is better not to purchase Polish and Dutch copies, because. they hardly adapt to our climate. When buying, try to find out as much information as possible about the characteristics of the species and variety, as well as the rules for caring for the plant, so as not to be disappointed later.

How to choose boxwood seedlings

To select quality evergreen boxwood seedlings, look at its leaves. At healthy plant they should be dark green and tough. Another sign of a healthy boxwood is good branching. On the bush, bald spots and sluggish leaves are unacceptable. The best time to plant boxwood is spring. But if you have time to plant seedlings in early autumn before frost, they will also take root well.

Lilac seedlings - what they should be

Lilac planting material can be of two types: seedlings (specimens grown from seeds) and more common grafted seedlings. Rooted cuttings can also be purchased from amateur flower growers. varietal lilac and a shoot separated from an adult plant of a bush.

Seedlings are more viable, take root better, and are cheaper, since they are non-varietal planting material, suitable, for example, for hedges. They can be bought in nurseries where seedlings are grown for rootstocks.

If you buy grafted seedlings, then it is better to opt for annual specimens. To select quality planting material, it is important to carefully examine the place where the vaccination was made (a slight bend at the base of the trunk). The roots that are below this place should not have overgrowth or traces of its removal. good seedling has about 50-70 cm in height, 3-4 skeletal branches and branched roots 25-30 cm long. Also, there are no cracks on its bark.

How to choose thuja seedlings

When buying this plant, it is important to know that seedlings with a closed root system take root better. Also, when buying, pay attention to the color and elasticity of the needles. It is better to choose a seedling that is not too thick, without traces of recent pruning.

If there is no experience in growing thuja, it is better to choose seedlings up to 120 cm high. Plants above 2 m are much more difficult to transplant and require qualified care. Brown shoots that have yellow spots or covered with white wax dust.

Forsythia seedlings - when is the best time to buy

Grown forsythia bushes take root well. Such planting material in containers can be bought and planted during the entire warm season. Quality seedlings of this plant should be thick, with many healthy buds. If there are brown spots on the leaves, most likely the plant is affected by moniliosis. It is best to refuse to buy such an instance.

Large forsythia seedlings are usually more viable than small ones.

Mock-orange saplings - what to look for

It is better to buy mock orange seedlings in the spring. When choosing this plant, you must definitely pay attention to the variety, since many of them do not have high frost resistance. Therefore, you should either immediately choose cold-resistant varieties, or be prepared for the fact that young seedlings will require special care and shelter for the winter.

Most often on sale there are mock orange bushes that have grown from root divisions or rooted lignified cuttings. But specimens grown from seeds can also be sold. When buying the last flowering earlier than after 5 years, you should not wait.

Now you are completely ready to go to the store and be able to purchase quality plants that will take root well in your garden!

The right choice of seedlings is one of the most important tasks both when laying a garden and when expanding it. At good care an orchard lives an average of 20 years, and in the future, yields become smaller - and old trees have to be replaced with young seedlings.

In order for the garden to please with flowering and an abundance of fruits for as long as possible, it is necessary with all responsibility to approach both the acquisition of planting material and the choice of a place for planting seedlings. Not only the survival of plants, their growth and development, but also the quantity and even the quality of future crops depend on these factors. To acquire healthy seedlings that will “settle” in the garden for many years, it is enough to follow simple rules, which we will dwell on in more detail.

You can buy and plant young trees and shrubs spring or autumn- the main thing is to do it not in growing season plants. As a rule, the main sale of seedlings in nurseries is carried out in autumn period while their prices are much lower. Many gardeners are sure that during the autumn planting (until mid-October), the seedlings take root better and the "relocation" is easier to endure. However, in this case, it is necessary to pay due attention to the winter hardiness of the selected variety.

At the same time, most summer residents and gardeners are thinking about expanding their garden holdings with the onset of spring. In this case, you need to make sure that the buds on the plants have not yet begun to bloom, since seedlings with already blooming buds take root worse.

First of all, it is worth deciding which trees can be safely called an integral part of any orchard. This, of course, stone fruits (cherry, cherry, plum, peach, apricot) And pome fruits (apple, pear, quince).

Almost all stone fruits are cross-pollinated. For cherries, for example, good pollinator cherry will become, for an apricot - cherry plum or plum. There are also varieties that do not need a pollinator.

It is best to buy seedlings in nurseries or specialized stores and garden centers. At the same time, it is important to pay attention not only to their regionalization (suitability for growing in a specific soil-climatic zone), ideally, young plants should be acclimatized, that is, grown under such conditions.

Stone fruits (unlike pome fruits) bear fruit earlier, so they are recommended to be planted in the spring. Seedlings of such trees need to pick up a warmer, wind-protected landing site. In turn, pome crops are characterized by good winter hardiness, so their experts advise planting them on a site in autumn time. But in any case, it is worth focusing on the weather conditions.

Experts and experienced gardeners agree that it is best to give preference for seedlings that are about 2 years old, because they take root better and faster than their age "brothers". The roots of the plant should be fresh, thick and moist. Small roots must be present, ideally lush and dense: up to 20 cm long for annuals and up to 30 cm for biennial plants. In the absence of small roots, the tree most likely will not take root or will be very weak. It is good if the clod of root soil is not removed (for example, seedlings are placed in containers or plastic bags). But it is better to refrain from buying seedlings with dry and weathered roots.

Non-zoned seedlings can also be purchased, but this should be done solely as an experiment. Such plants require careful care, which only a truly experienced gardener can provide.

On root collar of a young tree, the grafting site should be visible. If it is absent, there is a risk of acquiring root shoots or wild. The bark of the plant should be smooth, not wrinkled or cracked.

Mature trees (aged 4-5 years) should be sold with a clod of earth the size of the crown of the seedling itself.

Scratch lightly before buying bark trees. If you see a greenish layer under it, then the seedling is alive and relatively healthy. seedlings with growths on the trunk or roots, acquire Not recommended.

Trunk the seedling must be resilient and have up to 5 multidirectional branches about 60 cm long. In this case, the branches must be deviated from the trunk by at least 45 °, otherwise it will be difficult for them to withstand the load from ripened fruits. The kidneys should be clearly visible, well formed and without damage. Shoots should be dense, woody.

On sale you can find both plants in containers and seedlings with open root system. I advise giving preference to the latter. Why? The fact is that such planting material was grown in open ground, which means that it had the opportunity to develop a more powerful root system and a stronger crown due to the larger feeding area. But this coin also has a downside: seedlings with an open root system when digging lose some roots. Therefore, before buying, such seedlings should be examined especially carefully, since the open root system makes this possible.

First, what I would recommend paying attention to when choosing a seedling is its age. Not all gardeners know that plants transplanted at the age of 4-5 years take root with great difficulty, often get sick and can die even with good care. So for your garden I buy only 1-2 year olds seedlings.

Secondly, it is important to pay attention to the condition of the aerial part of the seedling. The tree should have a good stem about 1 cm thick. The height of an annual seedling should be about 1 m, a two-year-old - about 1.5 m. As for berry crops, their seedlings should have 2-3 well-developed lignified shoots and well developed root system. This is very important nuance, because during the autumn planting, a non-lignified shoot may not survive the winter.

The next thing we look at is root system seedling. She must be fibrous in other words, to resemble a beard. That is, thin roots will depart from the main roots, which just feed the plant. At the same time, the roots themselves should be elastic and dense. Before the purchase make a small cut on the spine(or just scratch it with your fingernail). If inside the spine light, the plant can be bought. And here dark color indicates that the spine is rotten. If otherwise the seedling looks healthy, you can take a chance and buy it, but in this case, the affected roots will have to be cut to a “living” place before planting.

When buying a seedling, make sure that its roots do not have any thickening, since they can be a sign of dangerous diseases (for example, root cancer). Bacteria living in the soil penetrate through the cracks into the root system and cause the plant cells to divide rapidly. As a result, they form growths. The price for carelessness in this matter is very high: the plant will not only die, but may also infect the soil in the garden. This rule applies to almost all fruit trees, but there are exceptions. If you saw growths on the roots of seedlings acacia, sea buckthorn or wisteria, do not rush to refuse their purchase. In the case of these cultures, the growths hide not harmful microorganisms, but nodule bacteria that have the ability to bind nitrogen from the air. In no case should these nodules be removed from the root system of seedlings, since the plant may die.

The influence of the human factor should not be underestimated. Notice how salesman protects the root system of seedlings from drying out. Ideally, at the stage of preparation for sale, the seedling should be dipped in clay talker, thereby creating reliable protection everyone, even the smallest roots.

The bark of a young tree should be smooth. wrinkled bark, which has lost turgor, as it were, warns the gardener that the plant for a long time experienced moisture deficiency. As a rule, its root system is also damaged. From the purchase of such a seedling, I recommend to refuse. If, out of ignorance, you nevertheless acquired it, you will have to resort to " resuscitation"- namely, before planting, place the entire seedling in a container with water for a fairly long time (at least a day).

Give preference zoned varieties, since seedlings from warm countries and more southern regions are unlikely to take root in the climatic conditions of our middle zone. And here plants from local nurseries- completely.

Returning to the human factor, I want to warn you: buy plants only in proven catteries with a good reputation. Often we are attracted by the variety of seedlings presented in the market in large quantities, but in this case there is a high probability of buying plants that do not correspond to the declared variety.

If the choice is made in favor of a seedling with closed root system, carefully examine the soil in the container before buying. If it is compacted or even covered with moss, the plant must have grown in this container for quite a long time and managed to grow a powerful root system. To dispel the last doubts, gently pull the seedling by the stem at the base. When you take the plant out of the container, you will see how densely the earthy ball has grown roots. If, during this study, the stem easily pulled out of the ground, it is better to refuse the purchase.

seedlings apple trees And pears must be necessarily grafted (on rootstocks). When purchasing such plants, you need to ask on which rootstock this or that variety is grafted, since the height of an adult tree will directly depend on this.

Culture and rootstock type

The "health" of the future garden, and hence the quality of the future harvest, also depends on the correctly chosen type of rootstock.

Dwarf(weak) rootstock it has a superficial root system, is exposed to weather disasters and is short-lived. Seminal(tall) stock is more durable and resistant to negative environmental conditions. Experienced gardeners prefer vigorous rootstocks because they are more resistant to the vagaries of nature and are durable.

For comparison, fruit trees on dwarf rootstocks bear fruit for no more than 20 years, and on seed vigorous ones - up to 80.

If the summer cottage is large enough and located on a flat surface deep ground water , you can buy seedlings on a vigorous seed stock. The root system of crops with such a stock is pivotal and penetrates the soil to a depth of 3 to 4 m. Such an “anchor” holds the tree well in the soil even during strong winds and floods. At the same time, trees on vigorous rootstocks reach a height of 9 to 15 m, which makes it difficult to care for them.

If the area is small and located in the valley, it is more practical to purchase seedlings on semi-dwarf or dwarf rootstocks. Especially if the fertile soil layer does not exceed 60 cm, and groundwater lies close to the surface.

How to distinguish the type of rootstock when buying a seedling

Having decided what type of seedling is appropriate for your garden plot, carefully inspect it root system. All roots of a dwarf rootstock depart from the root neck, they are the same in thickness and length. The type of such a root system is fibrous, with small suction roots. The root of the tree on a vigorous (seed) rootstock is rod, straight. In this case, lateral roots depart from the central rod, which are thinner than the central one and are located almost horizontally in relation to it.

In addition, young grafted seedlings adapt better and faster to new conditions. In this case, it is desirable that the vaccination be carried out 1.5-2 years before planting the plant in a permanent place. At the selected tree, it is necessary to carefully examine the root collar - the trace of the cut rootstock must be healed, otherwise there is a danger of infection of the seedling with a fungus fungus (and this disease cannot be cured).

When choosing seedlings, it is necessary to take into account the soil cover of the area where the plants will be grown. For apple trees, for example, sod-podzolic, gray forest soils and black earth. Pears grow well on slightly podzolized loams with sufficient moisture. It is better to have plums and cherries on medium and light loamy soils. Cherries prefer sandy soils.

The best time to plant seedlings apple trees- autumn. And here pears with a delicate root system, it is best to plant in the spring (in April). Spring planting is also preferred for plums, cherries And cherry. If the seedlings of these crops were purchased in the fall, they can be stored in the so-called prikop - a trench about 60 cm deep until the onset of spring.

Plums, cherries and cherries grafted much less frequently than apple and pear trees. When purchasing seedlings of these crops, you need to ask if the grafted plant is in front of you or its own root. Grafted seedlings, as a rule, begin to bear fruit earlier and do not produce root shoots.

As practice shows, it is important not only to choose healthy seedlings adapted to specific climatic conditions, but also to plan their planting well, taking into account a number of factors. It is necessary to take into account the level of groundwater, the degree of illumination, the relief of the soil and its characteristics, as well as the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe territory allotted for the garden.

The relief of the site may have a slight slope (from 5 to 7 °), while it is better if it is south, southeast or southwest. But experts do not advise laying a garden on an absolutely flat area. In addition, the landing site should be well lit. Seedlings should be located in a place protected from the wind on the south or south-west side of the site.

You should not discount such a factor as the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden plot, since the height and number of future trees will depend on it. Excessive density of plantings can lead to shading and poor fruiting of trees, which in this case will begin to grow up, and not in breadth.

With a choice of location for each specific seedling need to decide in advance, even before buying plants, since planting holes are best prepared in advance (in some cases - 6 months before boarding).

If a fruit tree is grafted on a vigorous rootstock, the groundwater depth should not exceed 3 m, for a semi-dwarf - 1 rootstock - 2.5 m, but for dwarf trees, the optimal groundwater depth is 1.5 m.

Observing these simple conditions, you can count on good survival, rapid growth of seedlings and start creating a beautiful garden.

What you need to do before buying seedlings

1. Write in your garden diary which seedlings of which crops, varieties and ripening dates you need to purchase this season. Calculate their number and draw a landing pattern in advance.
2. Determine the depth of groundwater, the depth of the fertile and underlying layer.
3. Prepare planting holes in advance.

Make no mistake in choosing

The seedling must have a tag that will indicate the type of crop (apple, pear, etc.), variety name, zoning (local, other region, country), ripening period (early, medium, late), type of rootstock and age of the seedling .

The best for planting are 1-2 year old seedlings. According to external parameters, they should have standard dimensions: 1-year-old seedling: stem height - from 0.7 to 1 m, stem diameter - from 1 to 1.3 cm, root system length - 25-35 cm, aerial part without lateral branches ; 2-year-old seedling: stem height - about 1.5 m, stem diameter - up to 2 cm, root system length - from 30 cm, the aerial part may have 1-2 lateral branches; 2-3-year-old seedling: a clearly defined central conductor (trunk) and 3 to 5 lateral (future skeletal) branches, lateral shoots depart from the trunk at an angle of 45 to 90

The root system should look healthy, smooth and elastic, not have growths and ulcerations.

The stem of the seedling should be straight, with smooth bark without dark spots or dots.

You should not buy seedlings with leaves (especially if they have drooped and lost turgor). Most likely, such plants were dug up too early.

It is important to carefully examine the vaccination site. In some cases, it is on the plant, but is accompanied by prickly outgrowths on the scion. Most often, plums, peaches, apricots and pears “sin” with this. In this case, it is better to refrain from buying, since unscrupulous producers of planting material, most likely, grafted wild on wild, counting on an inexperienced buyer. A real graft has a graft without thorns.

An annual seedling of columnar fruit crops can be distinguished from ordinary "brothers" by a thicker (from 1.5 cm) central conductor. In 2-3-year-old seedlings of columnar crops, on the central shoot (it is also the future trunk), there are practically no lateral branches, while in ordinary seedlings, from 3 to 5 side shoots are already formed by this age.

How to save a seedling before planting

After purchase, the seedling must be immediately properly packaged so that the graft does not break off during transportation and the roots do not dry out. Going to a nursery or garden center for young trees, you need to have a damp rag, burlap and a tall bag with you.

Experts advise wrapping the roots of the seedling with a damp rag, carefully pulling it off with twine and laying it in a damp burlap. And only after that the plant can be placed in a high plastic bag. Having fulfilled these conditions, you can be sure that during transportation the seedling will not lose moisture and will not be damaged.

It is important to pay attention to the coordination of the root system and the number of shoots. Even if the bush is very beautiful, but its root is weakly branched or even cut off, I would not recommend buying it. By the way, for the growth and development of a plant, it is enough to have 2-3 good shoots.

With the onset of spring, you should not put off planting seedlings for a long time: after the leaves begin to unfold on the shoots of plants, their survival rate will drop sharply. That is why the spring landing "boom" is rather swift and fleeting. At the same time, the autumn planting period can be called more measured and thorough.

The process of planting trees and shrubs can be called one of the milestones their cultivation. It is on him that the beauty of the future garden and its productivity largely depend. At the same time (along with the choice of the optimal place for planting and healthy seedlings), a huge role is played by the correct implementation of planting work at the optimum time and competent care of plants in the future.

When purchasing seedlings with an open (freed from the ground) root system, it should be remembered that in dry weather they may be on outdoors no more than 15 minutes. With a longer stay in the air, the tender root endings that absorb water begin to dry out and die. For transportation small plants you can use boxes (preferably plastic) with small ventilation holes, for medium-sized seedlings, garbage bags (from 20 to 40 liters in size) are suitable, and for transporting large seedlings, it is better to purchase a double plastic film up to 1.5 m wide in advance.

Open-rooted seedlings are best purchased and transported in cool cloudy (and even rainy) weather.

Having delivered the planting material to the site, it is recommended to dig in the seedlings as soon as possible. For this, a ditch is prepared with one vertical and the other inclined wall (at an angle of approximately 30 °), into which the seedlings are placed. The root system of plants is sprinkled with earth. In such a pit, seedlings can be stored for quite a long time without losing viability.

Before you start planting, you need to carefully evaluate the conditions in which young plants will grow and develop (sunny or shaded place, waterlogged or dry, poor or rich soil, etc.). The most common mistake novice (and not only) gardeners make is too close planting, and it is caused by the fact that many of us simply do not know what size this or that plant will reach in adulthood. Finding relevant information today is easy both on the Internet and in specialized literature.

The seedlings extracted from the pin are set in the center of the pit in such a way that their roots, without bending and not resting against the walls of the pit, evenly diverge in different directions. If the roots are too long, they are pruned with secateurs or cut with an ax.

Before planting, the roots of seedlings are carefully inspected. All broken roots are cut out with secateurs, and large roots are cut by 0.5-1 cm.

When planting, it is important to ensure that the root neck of the plants is located above the soil surface. To do this, if necessary, select (or, conversely, add) the required amount of earthen mixture from a third of the pit filled up. After the seedling has taken its place in the planting pit, it is covered approximately 2/3 of the total depth with an earthen mixture, which should cover most of the plant's root system. After that, the landing site is abundantly watered until the water level is set at 2/3 of the depth of the landing pit. After that, the pit is covered with a dry soil mixture.

During planting, the seedling must be maintained in vertical position, slightly twitching and pulling it up.

According to experienced gardeners, this method of planting most often guarantees the survival of plants. With other planting methods (including the most common dry planting followed by abundant watering), plant survival is lower due to less close contact of the root endings with the soil and the formation of air sacs in the root zone.

Pouring water directly into landing pit, you can avoid the formation of dirt around the planting site, which is inevitable when watering from above.

After planting the seedling around the annular roller, you need to form a planting mound. It is he who will retain moisture in the near-turn zone during irrigation. It will not be superfluous to mulch the surface of the mound suitable material to avoid the formation of a soil crust and slow down the evaporation of moisture.

Planting seedlings with a closed root system

According to experts, seedlings with a closed root system can be planted in a permanent place almost throughout the year. The technology of such planting is quite simple and differs slightly from planting seedlings with an open root system. However, there are some specific features that you should pay attention to.

Not all gardeners know that the soil (earthen mixture) is included in the list of quarantine materials that are prohibited from being transported across state borders. In this regard, for official delivery from abroad, seedlings are placed in containers with peat or other material allowed for transportation. As a rule, such a substrate is completely unsuitable for further cultivation plants.

When purchasing an "overseas" plant, try to remove it from the container as quickly as possible and plant it in a permanent place in open ground. If for some reason this is not possible, the seedling can be transplanted into another container with a quality soil mixture.

The seedling is carefully removed from the container just before planting. If the roots of the plant are twisted along the walls of the container, they must be cut off. This should be done with repeated vertical movements around the entire circumference of the coma, and with the sharpest possible knife.

In the future, the planting process is not much different from a similar operation with seedlings with an open root system. An earthen mixture is poured into the planting pit in such a way that the surface of the earthen clod placed on it protrudes 5-10 cm above the soil level. After that, water is poured into the pit and covered with dry earth in the gap between the clod and the edge of the landing pit along its entire perimeter, carefully tamping.

I would recommend for better survival seedlings (it doesn’t matter which way they are planted) to use root stimulants. Most often on sale you can find the drug " Kornevin". The working solution of this drug is prepared at a 0.0001% concentration - according to the instructions. I strongly recommend not to exceed the indicated dose of the drug, since solutions of a higher concentration can lead to burns of the root tissues of seedlings and their death.

Mature trees are held in the soil by roots that tightly cover a large volume of soil. As for seedlings, they are deprived of such support, therefore, after planting, they need additional support.

Young shrubs, after planting, as a rule, hold quite well in the soil, since their shoot system has a low center of gravity. At the same time, the center of gravity of the trees is much higher, so young trees need to be fixed in the first time after planting.

You can strengthen the landing with the help of supports. For seedlings with an open root system, most often one support is enough. It is driven into the bottom of the pit 10-15 cm from its center before planting a seedling. Seedlings planted in a permanent place with a clod of earth, experts recommend strengthening with three pillar pyramids. And in the case of large-sized seedlings, a safety attachment system will come to the aid of gardeners, which will not interfere with the proper development of the tree (for example, the “ Cobra» for seedlings).

Tree planting rules

If you plant young seedlings at the required interval, the first couple of years the garden will seem empty to you - and there will be a desire to fill free (in your opinion) places with new plants. Under no circumstances should you do this! After 8-10 years, your "pets" will grow, and if planted too densely, their crowns will begin to close. And then you will face an unpleasant choice: either part with a part of the plants (dig up or even cut them down), or cut them heavily every year, forgetting about the decorative effect.

Some summer residents who want to save on the purchase of seedlings of ornamental plants do not purchase them in special nurseries, but dig them out in the forest or in other areas. And few people think that doing this is prohibited by forest and environmental legislation. In addition, not all types of excavated game take root in a new place after transplantation. The fact is that in nurseries, seedlings are transplanted several times, forming compact root systems with a large number of root endings. As for the wilds, they grow all their lives on permanent place, which leads to the growth of skeletal roots and weak branching of the root system. By digging up such trees (even with the utmost care), you will most likely cut off a large part of the root system, resulting in a plant with stumps of skeletal roots, practically devoid of root buds.

Naturally, the survival rate of such planting material will be very low, and miraculously surviving plants will be stunted and painful.

1. Firstly, soil density should not exceed 30 kg/cm. This is the maximum value at which the roots (albeit with difficulty) can penetrate the soil.
2. Secondly, 1 mg of tree crown should provide 0.5 m3 of soil space for roots. Here is a simple example: a tree with a crown diameter of 12 m requires at least 50 m3 of soil volume.
3. Third, the maximum depth of the landing pit should not exceed 1 m.

Rules for a competent landing

• If the top of the seedling is wilted, it can be cut off to living tissue. However, this can be done no more than a third of the length.
• After planting and watering, the root neck should be 3-5 cm above the soil level.
• We fill the fertile soil into the pit evenly and carefully tamp around the roots.
• We draw a circle on the ground - the edges of the future pit. We place the top arable layer (1) on the bottom, fertile soil (2) on top. The depth of the pit is about 60 cm, the diameter is about 100 cm. For stone fruit crops, the size of the pit is 40 × 80 cm.
• The top layer of soil (taken out during the digging process) is laid on the bottom of the pit with a mound, we place a seedling on top, carefully straightening its root system.
• After filling the hole next to the seedling, we drive in a stake, to which we attach the stem of the plant.

In the first 2 years after planting, seedlings require special attention gardener. Proper care at this time is not only crucial for the further development of young trees, but also allows you to correct mistakes made during unsuccessful planting.

Immediately after planting a seedling in the ground, experts advise forming a so-called trunk circle. With its presence, it is more convenient to water and feed the plant - moisture and nutrients will go directly to the root system. The trunk circle must be regularly cleaned of weeds and loosen the soil in it well to ensure oxygen access to the root system of the seedling.

* In the first year of a seedling's life, its near-stem circle averages from 30 to 40 cm. After the plant is 1 year old, its near-stem circle is expanded by another 0.5 m.

To protect against adverse weather conditions, plants are tied to supports and ensure that the garter does not cut into the bark, since damage to it can lead to the death of the plant.

To avoid drying out fabrics in spring, in dry and windy weather, tree trunks can be wrapped with damp cloth or moss.

Sometimes in the first years of a seedling's life, an imbalance can be observed between the volume of its root system and the aerial part. In this case, post-planting pruning is carried out, shortening the shoots by a quarter.

In the 1st year life, the root system of the seedling develops within the planting hole. At this time, the plant uses the fertilizer applied during planting, and additional feeding can be omitted. If the applied fertilizers are not enough and the seedlings grow poorly, 10 kg of rotted manure, 120 g of superphosphate, 40 g of potassium chloride and 60 g of ammonium nitrate are added to the trunk circle.

On the 2nd a year, the trunk circle is expanded by about 50 cm and the same amount of fertilizer is applied. It should be borne in mind that with the onset of spring, young trees feel an urgent need for nitrogen fertilizers, which means that the dose of ammonium nitrate can be increased to 80 g and urea can be added.

If the soil in the garden plot is poor, it is better to apply fertilizers in parts, superficially and close up with a rake. After top dressing, the trunk circle is watered and mulched with peat or

Feeding seedlings is best combined with watering. Plants need additional moisture especially in the first year after planting. With its deficiency, the top of the aerial part of the seedling will begin to gradually die off. This process, which is negative for the plant, lasts until the normal level of moisture is restored in the root layer of the soil.

For fruit crops on loamy and clay soils, an average of three irrigations per season is sufficient: immediately after planting, in the second half of May and in July. At the same time, at least 3 buckets of water are poured under each tree. If the summer turned out to be hot and dry, as well as late spring planting the number of waterings increases to 4-5: 2 spring and 2-3 summer. If the soil in the garden is light sandy, at least 5-6 waterings will be required.

In August (or early September), watering should be suspended to allow young growths of plants to lignify well and prepare for the onset of winter. At the end of September-October, gardeners carry out abundant (double rate) watering of plants, which contributes to the growth of roots even under snow cover. It is winter irrigation, according to experts, that strengthens the winter hardiness of the seedling.

In order for moisture to accumulate and remain in the soil, experienced gardeners resort to mulching. They cover the trunk circles with humus, compost, peat, chopped straw, etc. But sawdust(especially conifers) use for mulching Not recommended. The thickness of the mulching layer should be 3-5 cm. Lay out the mulch throughout the trunk circle, with the exception of small area around the trunk with a radius of 10-15 cm.

The first mulching is carried out immediately after the first loosening of the soil. If you do this later, when the ground is already dry, mulching not only does not give a positive result, but in dry years it can even harm plants. In the summer months, the soil under the mulch layer is loosened as it compacts, moving the mulch material to the side. After loosening, the mulch is re-distributed around the trunk circle of the plant. In autumn, the mulch is incorporated into the soil as a fertilizer.

Fresh leaves of young seedlings are a real delicacy for leaf-eating caterpillars and green aphids. These pests must be collected manually, and if this does not work, it is necessary to use biological or chemicals protection.

In late autumn, the main tillage is carried out in near-stem circles with the application of fertilizers. It is at this time that fruit trees finish growing and leaf fall ends. The soil is dug up with a shovel with a turnover of the layer, while soil clods are not crushed. Thanks to this event, pests that winter in the upper layers of the soil die. And the “blocky” surface of the soil retains moisture better.

Digging up the soil in the trunk circle young plant, care must be taken. It is impossible to deepen the shovel too deep, so as not to damage the root system of the seedling. In this case, the shovel itself should be facing the trunk with an edge. Near a young trunk, it is better to use rippers or cultivators to a depth of no more than 6-7 cm, when moving away from the trunk, the soil can be cultivated deeper - by 14-15 cm.

Before digging the soil in the trunk circle, it is necessary to remove all weeds and burn the fallen leaves.

In spring, loosening of the soil is carried out without turning the layer. For the first time, the soil is loosened to save the stock after the snow melts and the earth dries out a little. In the future, during the spring and summer months, the soil in the trunk circles of young trees is loosened at least 3-4 times, carefully getting rid of weeds.

In the 2nd year of growth, the seedling is pruned. This procedure allows you to balance the rapidly developing aerial part of the plant and its root system, as well as lay the foundations for the formation of the crown.

As a rule, fruit trees on vigorous rootstocks are formed according to a sparse-tiered scheme, according to which the tree has 5-7 skeletal branches of the first tier and 4-5 of the second. To do this, in the 2nd year, the side branches are cut by a third with a shoot length of 70 cm and by half with a length of 100 cm. If future skeletal branches develop the same way, the lower shoots are cut weaker than the upper ones. To get the second tier of the crown, the central conductor is also shortened, leaving a length of 45-50 cm.

With proper care, the growth of shoots in one season should be 60-70 cm pome crops and 80-100 cm - in stone fruits.

The first winter is a serious test for a young plant. To help him overwinter, you can purchase special material for shelter. It will not only warm the plant during the cold period and in early spring it will save him from burns, but also protect him from rodents. By the way, whitewashing, used as a means of protection, is not always effective for young trees. It is necessary to release the trees from the fabric strapping on cloudy (preferably rainy) days in the late afternoon. Concerning strong winds, then the correct support will protect the young tree from them, which will not damage the bark of the tree.

The future yield of young trees directly depends on how strong the plant is. Annual apple and peach trees bear their first fruits 2-3 years after planting, apricot, cherry and plum trees - after 3-4 years, and pear trees - no earlier than 5 years later. In the event that young trees have bloomed earlier than the indicated period, all flowers must be removed so as not to weaken the plants.

Fertilizing calendar for apple and pear trees: from spring to autumn

April

After the awakening of the buds, apple and pear trees are fed with urea: at the rate of 30 g per 1 mg of the near-stem circle for trees under 3 years old and 50 g per 1 mg for fruit-bearing trees. After fertilization, the trees are watered abundantly.

Urea must not be mixed with superphosphate, lime and chalk. Urea saturates the soil with easily digestible nitrogen, promotes the growth of green mass by the tree, and also helps prevent scab and purple blotch.

May

In May, 1.5 cups of ash and 30 g of ammofoska per 1 mg are placed in the near-trunk circle of each tree. It is best to apply fertilizer in the holes. They are dug along the perimeter of the crown to a depth of 20-25 cm. Since fertilizers are rich in phosphorus and potassium, they contribute to the development of the root system, active fruit set and increase plant resistance to drought and disease.

To avoid a burn of the root system, before (or immediately after) fertilizing, the plants are watered abundantly: 5-6 buckets of water for each tree, 2-4 buckets of water are spent on barren apple trees and pears.

After 2 weeks, it is desirable to foliar top dressing- spray the crown with humic fertilizer: 5 g of dry powder is diluted in 10 liters of warm (25-28 ° C) water, a liquid preparation solution is prepared according to the instructions. Humic fertilizers increase the immunity of trees and their resistance to adverse weather conditions.

For tree crowns, it is best to use sodium humate, but in its absence, potassium humate can also be used. In this case, it is desirable to give preference to a preparation containing trace elements.

June

After flowering, plants need to be fed with microelements - primarily boron and copper, which increase the immunity of plants and contribute to the active laying of flower buds for the next season. At this time, 0.5 g of boric acid and 2 g blue vitriol diluted in 10 liters of water. This amount of fertilizer is enough to feed 1 adult tree or 2 young plants.

In June, it is also useful to repeat spraying with humic fertilizer in the same proportions.

July

In the first days of July, the soil in the trunk circles of trees is loosened to a depth of 15 cm and green manure is sown in it. After about 5 weeks, the green mass is mowed and embedded in the soil.

It will not be superfluous this month to repeat spraying with humic fertilizer in the same proportions.

August

Every 3 years (starting from the second year of the plant's life) in August, the trees are fed with phosphate fertilizer: 30 g of double superphosphate per 1 m of the trunk circle. Fertilizer is embedded in the soil to a depth of about 5 cm, after watering the plants abundantly.

September

Every year, with the onset of autumn, 30 g of sernbislogr must be added to 1 mg of the near-stem circle. potassium. Alternatively, at this time, apple and pear trees can be fed with complex autumn fertilizer (according to the instructions) or potassium monophosphate: 10-15 g per 10 liters of water (10 liters of solution per 1 mg of soil).

Autumn fertilizers do not contain nitrogen, as they are intended to prepare fruit crops for winter. They contribute to the lignification of young shoots and bark, and also help plants survive frosts.

The best fruit and berry shrubs for the garden

Raspberries

Many of us have heard about the wonderful properties of this tasty and fragrant berry. By the way, earlier bushes familiar to us grew only in forests, and only over time this culture began to be bred in garden plots. Today on sale you can find varieties of early, middle and late deadlines maturation. The advantages of this culture include its ability to adapt to almost any conditions, and the main disadvantage is the low yield.

Large-fruited raspberry varieties are considered high-yielding, since the mass of one berry can reach 12 g. And remontant varieties are most popular.

The shrub needs regular watering, loosening the soil and timely top dressing.

You can plant raspberries on the site in spring (before buds appear) or in autumn (until mid-October). The place for planting should be chosen as lit as possible, since in the shade the yield of this crop will be much lower, and the berries will be smaller. It is best to plant raspberry bushes so that the northern (and northeastern) sides of the plants are protected from cold winds by a fence or wall.

Gooseberry

This berry is often referred to as northern grape or Russian cherry plum. With relative unpretentiousness, the culture gives good yields, so gooseberries can be found in almost all regions. Fruiting usually occurs in the third year. Berries can be green, yellow or red-brown - currently there are about 1500 varieties of gooseberries.

The plant prefers lit areas and is not afraid of drought, but shading and waterlogging when growing this crop should be avoided.

European gooseberry varieties have gained popularity due to their high palatability However, they are prone to disease and do not tolerate low temperatures well. American varieties give a good harvest even with a lack of moisture, although they are inferior in size to berries. European varieties. Hybrid varieties, in turn, combine the best qualities, so they are most often found in summer cottages and household plots. At present, large-fruited, frost-resistant, productive varieties that are resistant to various diseases.

For planting gooseberries, a well-lit area, protected from cold winds, is suitable. With constant waterlogging (especially if the plant is in the shade), it is possible to be affected by various fungal diseases.

Gooseberries do not tolerate acidic soils, but feels great on light loams.

You can add garden compost or lime to the planting hole (or trench).

Blackberry

This culture has settled in our gardens relatively recently. For a long time, its habitat was wild nature. In terms of taste and healing properties Blackberries are not only not inferior to raspberries, but also surpass them. An interesting fact is that the shrub was not in demand by gardeners because of the sharp thorns, but now, thanks to the work of breeders, varieties without thorns have appeared.

Blackberries have a deep root system, so you should not place plants in places with close groundwater.

The straight-growing blackberry is considered the most common today. Bushes give a good harvest and save space on the site. But semi-creeping varieties, although extremely rare, are a real treasure for experienced gardeners. Noteworthy is the remontant blackberry, which allows you to harvest twice a season.

Blackberry prefers fertile, loose and moisture-intensive soils and the most illuminated areas of the garden. When planted in the shade, the shoots are stretched, which leads to a loss in yield. This culture is quite thermophilic and needs protection from cold winds, therefore the best place for it will be the south or south-west side of any building or fence. Shrubs should be planted in a trench strictly along the line in order to avoid difficulties during care. During the fruiting period, plants need frequent and plentiful watering.

Honeysuckle

Edible varieties of honeysuckle for many useful properties are often called " rejuvenating berries". And since shrubs also bloom beautifully, they are often used for decorative purposes.

Honeysuckle ripens in mid-May. The berries of this culture have a slightly bitter specific taste.

Bushes of long-fruited honeysuckle are medium-sized with cylindrical berries. Hybrid varieties were bred by breeders by crossing several varieties of berries. Medium late varieties honeysuckle bears fruit until late autumn.

Honeysuckle does not tolerate shade well, preferring sunny places in the garden.

The culture is suitable for planting both in spring (before the growing season) and in autumn. The plant is quite cold hardy. Does not impose special requirements to the soil. Watering is important for honeysuckle (especially in spring and in hot, dry weather), but flooded areas and close groundwater are detrimental to plants.

Honeysuckle grows rather slowly. In order for the bush to take root and bear fruit well, it must be regularly fed. Bushes older than 6 years need sanitary pruning.

Most varieties of honeysuckle are self-fertile, so you need to plant 2-3 bushes. different varieties at a distance of 2-2.5 m from each other.

Honeysuckle can make interesting hedge. To do this, the bushes are planted at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other.

Currant

Currant bushes, unpretentious in care, allow you to collect rich harvests of tasty and healthy berries. Choosing a single variety for the site is impractical - great option will be the cultivation of several species at once. On sale you can find blackcurrant of early, middle and late ripening. At the same time, the most popular are large-fruited varieties. Distinctive feature red currant - more weighty bunches. At the same time, bushes can grow no transplant up to 20 years. As for the white currant, in terms of taste and benefits, it is not inferior to the red one. Deservedly popular today and hybrid varieties bred by breeding varieties of gooseberries and currants.

Best of all, currant grows in the most illuminated areas, and in the shade it will bear fruit worse and can be affected by various fungal diseases. Since the root system of the currant is shallow, the plants need regular watering. The currant is quite frost-resistant and, with sufficient snow cover thickness, can withstand frosts down to -40 °C.

Blueberry

This berry has not yet become widespread in summer cottages and household plots and for many of us remains a "representative" wildlife. Outwardly, blueberries resemble blueberries.

Tall blueberry varieties can be used to create hedge: their bushes are branched, and the berries have an intense blue or blue color. Low-growing blueberries bloom luxuriantly in spring, and also please with good harvests. Southern blueberry cultivars have been bred through hybridization to grow in arid climates.

In the garden, it is better to grow not wild, but more cultivated varieties of plants. They easily take root in a new place, regardless of the method of planting (by seeds or dividing the bush). Plants over 5 years old need pruning.

Blueberries will grow well and bear fruit in areas with acidic, loose, peaty soil. The landing site should be open and well lit. This culture will do well in a heather garden or next to conifers. The plant is frost-resistant. In one place, blueberries can grow up to 100 years.

Since blueberries belong to the heather family, the plant will grow well and bear fruit only in symbiosis with saprophyte mushrooms (which help blueberries extract nutrients from the soil).

Sea ​​buckthorn

Sea buckthorn bushes can be "settled" in almost any area. This plant is valued for its berries, which are widely used in folk medicine. In our gardens you can find early, middle and late varieties of sea buckthorn. The botanical variety, practically devoid of thorns, is becoming increasingly popular. Large-fruited varieties with sweeter berries do not have them either.

A sea buckthorn bush will bear fruit only if a female and male specimens of sea buckthorn are planted nearby.

The plant is hardy and frost-resistant. It can grow not only as a bush, but also as a tree. Experts recommend planting sea buckthorn in open and well-lit places - in the shade the plant may die. The soil for growing should be light, loose and fertile.

Irga

This beautiful plant most often grown as an ornamental shrub, since few people know about the beneficial properties of the berries growing on it, to taste something cherry-like. The plant is winter hardy and can withstand adverse climatic conditions.

The alder-leaved irga is a profusely flowering shrub. With the onset of autumn, the leaves turn bright colors. From a plant you can get up to 10 kg of berries. Canadian Irga - high tree shrub with fleshy and tasty berries. Irga blood-red is a slender, medium-sized shrub with juicy berries.

Irga is considered unpretentious plant and virtually maintenance free. At the same time, shrubs will appreciate abundant watering - especially during the growing season. In the first 3 years, the bush is formed, and at a later age, they are rejuvenated.

Irgi berries attract birds, so the crop must be harvested in a timely manner - as it ripens.

Bushes of shadberry can be used to create a hedge. For this, young seedlings are placed at a distance of 0.5 m from each other. Since the shrub gives a lot of root shoots, soon the hedge can turn into a dense barrier. If the shadberry bushes are intended for harvesting, they must be placed at a distance of at least 3 m from each other.

Irgu can be planted even in shady area garden, decorative and fruiting shrubs will not suffer from this. Irgu is planted in early spring or in mid-autumn (during leaf fall). In one place, the shrub can grow up to 70 years.

Actinidia

This decorative variegated shrub(more precisely, shrub-liana) differs not only in its decorative effect, but also in delicious vitamin fruits. Actinidia is best planted in a well-lit area, but it can also grow in partial shade. The plant needs loose, breathable soil, as well as support. The best time for planting actinidia is the beginning of May. Since the plant is dioecious, it is best to plant 1 male plant and 5 female plants in the garden.

Barberry

This thorny shrub is quite unpretentious, drought- and frost-resistant. To obtain fruits, it is worth choosing non-decorative species, since it is in them that the maximum amount of useful substances is concentrated.

The berries of decorative barberries will be bitter. Only well-ripened fruits (collected in September) are eaten; unripe ones can be poisoned.

All barberries are photophilous, but not at all demanding on the soil.

Gumi

This plant is a rare guest in our gardens. But the gumi bushes are decorative, and the berries are not inferior to sea buckthorn in their beneficial properties (by the way, they belong to the same family - Lokhovye). This plant is an excellent honey plant and attracts many pollinating insects to the garden.

It is better to plant gumi bushes in light fertile sandy or loamy soil. On acidic soils the plant may die. The landing site should be sunny and protected from cold winds.

Young plants need to be covered for the winter, in adults it is enough to cover the trunk circle with mulch to protect the bush from frost. Even if the branches of an adult shrub freeze in winter, the plant quickly recovers with the onset of spring.

It is best to buy seedlings of fruit and ornamental shrubs in nurseries

we are guaranteed to get a plant of the desired variety;

shrub will be acclimatized;

you can purchase a seedling with a closed root system, which is easy to plant for almost the entire season;

you can get a harvest in the shortest possible time;

nursery staff will make the necessary pruning before planting.

You can buy shrub seedlings on the market if the seller has been well acquainted for a long time and has an impeccable reputation.

Dishonest sellers use the following scheme: pour boiling water over plant roots, so at first they grow and develop well, and then die. This is done so that next year the gardener will come for a new seedling.

Choosing grape seedlings

Any gardener has learned a common truth: best time to buy seedlings - just before boarding. In this case, you do not have to worry that due to improper storage, the root system will dry out or rot, and the plant itself will freeze. Since grapes are planted in Russia in mid-May - early June (when the threat of return spring frosts), it is also desirable to go for seedlings in the spring.

Grape seedlings are vaccinated And own-rooted. Rooted grape seedlings always cheaper vaccinated. The main argument in their favor is that in frosty winters the vine may die, and only the root system will survive, in some cases the scion may break off from the rootstock at the grafting site. In this regard, a reasonable question arises: why pay for a graft that may not survive the first winter or break under the weight of the crop?

Concerning vaccinated seedlings, they are easy to identify by the place of grafting (the junction of the scion and rootstock should be noticeable). If the stem of the seedling is completely smooth (without growths and signs of vaccination) - this indicates that you have own-rooted seedling. At this point, you should pay attention, because unscrupulous sellers may try to sell an ungrafted seedling at the price of a grafted one.

What is benefits of vaccinated grape seedlings? Firstly, they bring a richer harvest due to the "cultivation" of the rootstock with a good variety. Secondly, such plants are not afraid of phylloxera, which often destroys own-rooted grapes.

When planting grapes, the grafting site should be above the soil level. If the plant is too deep, the cultural graft may take root and become a victim of phylloxera.

A healthy seedling must have a strong and well-developed root system: the more roots a plant has, the better and faster it will take root.

To check the quality root system grape seedlings, pinch off a small piece of the root with a secateurs: on the cut, it should be white and moist, in other words, similar to a cut raw potato. Black, brown or dry roots indicate that the plant has died.

After that pay attention to trunk: it must be healthy and without damage. Gently spread the bark along the fibers with your fingernail: you should see green, fresh wood, and the dark color again indicates the death of the seedling.

Now look around kidneys grapes: when pressed, the eyes should not peel off and, moreover, fall off.

What should alert

• If there are leaves on the seedlings that are sold in the fall. The fact is that foliage weakens the plant. Most likely, it will not survive the winter in the basement.
• The roots of the seedling are stored simply in the open air. In this case, there is no guarantee that the plant did not have time to dry out due to the inattention of the sellers.
• At least one of the seedlings of the batch shows signs of disease or pest damage. The disease could well have spread to other plants - just until its symptoms appeared.

Seedlings purchased in autumn for spring planting should winter in a cool room at a temperature not lower than 0 and not higher than 10 ° C.

The ideal temperature for storing grape seedlings is 2-3 degrees above zero. When hypothermia, the plant may die, and when overheated, it may prematurely start growing and not take root after planting.

It is necessary to follow so that the root system plants was constantly hydrated. It is best to store grape seedlings in damp (but not wet!) sand. It is not difficult to check the moisture level of the substrate: it is enough to squeeze a handful of sand in the palm of your hand, it should turn into a dense lump, but in no case crumble. Another extreme is also dangerous, in which water simply drips from the sand.

The humidity of the substrate must be checked throughout the winter, moistening it if necessary. Seedlings waiting to be planted in separate containers can get by with one watering per winter, but plants planted in shared containers need more frequent watering.

If you bought seedlings in containers in the spring, experts strongly do not recommend planting them in the ground right away. To begin with, plants should be accustomed to a new temperature and light regime. To do this, the grapes are first stored indoors - for example, on the windowsill. And after the bud blooms, the container can be transferred to the greenhouse. After some time, young shoots will appear on the seedling. As soon as the temperature becomes stable above zero at night, I proceed to hardening the grape seedlings. I start by taking them outside and leaving them for a day - always in the shade. A few days later I leave the grapes to spend the night on the street. And after 2-3 days I take it out in the sun. And only after that young grapes can be planted in open ground.

Tatyana Olegovna VRUBLEVSKAYA, Nesvizh

If the room intended for storing seedlings is too damp, treat them with a 3-5% solution of ferrous sulfate - this will protect the plants from fungal diseases.

Choosing rose seedlings

On sale you can find grafted or own-rooted rose seedlings (growing on their own roots and obtained by cuttings). If the seedling is grafted, first of all you need to find out on. what type of stock was grafted, since the winter hardiness of the plant largely depends on this.

When buying, experts advise giving preference to annual rose seedlings (their root system will be three years old, since the stock has been grown for at least two years) with a closed root system. Grafted plants at this age must have at least 3 well-developed shoots.

The best rootstock is the canina rose (R. canina). It is on this rootstock that roses grow well and develop in the conditions of Russia.

Do not be afraid to buy rose seedlings with an open root system: if the plants are dug up recently, they have every chance to take root in a new place. And there is also the opportunity to thoroughly study the state of the root system of plants.

Rose seedlings with an open root system should have several living elastic roots and at least 2 green stems about 20 cm high with green buds. When buying rose seedlings in the spring, you need to make sure that the buds are at rest, that is, they have not yet begun to grow. On the leaves healthy seedling there should be no spots, the bark of the stems should be smooth, not wrinkled, green.

Having decided on the seedling, the bare roots of the plant must be immediately packed in a damp cloth and tied with a film so that the root system does not dry out during transportation. When purchasing leafless seedlings, the roots of which are placed in the ground and sealed in a film, do not unpack the plants until planting.

After purchase, rose seedlings with an open root system must be disinfected: dip in a solution of copper sulfate (30 g per 10 liters of water) or " Fundazola"(1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

If the roots of the rose seedling you bought have dried up, dip it for a day in a bucket of water.

If planting a seedling is delayed for some time, open roots should be wrapped with a damp cloth or covered with moss, wrapped in plastic wrap and stored in a cool place for several days.

I love roses very much: they are so majestic, aristocratic and always different. Seeing a seedling of a new variety for me, I can not resist and buy it regardless of the time of year. Therefore, the issue of storage of planting material is very relevant for me. To keep the rose seedlings until planting, as they say, "in good health", I lay out the plants in a shallow groove - along one of its sides. I cover the roots and lower part of the shoots with earth and compact them tightly. Rose seedlings bought in late autumn are dug in a box with wet sand and stored in an unheated (but always frost-proof!) basement until spring. At the same time, I slightly shorten the shoots and cut the roots to 30 cm, and also remove all broken and dry parts of the shoots and roots.

Valentina Porfirovna GOLNIK

Today on sale (since January) you can find imported seedlings of roses. As a rule, they are packed in boxes and bags, and their roots are sprinkled with wet peat. Most often, the remnants of seedlings that were not sold in the fall are sold in this way by nurseries in Poland and Holland. These seedlings are already weakened by the long winter storage, and it is quite difficult to help them "survive" before planting at home. If you still decide on such a risky purchase, carefully inspect the root system of plants - it is she who is most vulnerable during storage and transportation.

I began to notice that often the shoots of such seedlings are covered with wax. After purchase, this layer must be carefully removed (in other words, scraped off), while being careful not to damage the kidneys. Do not plant such a bush in a pot and leave at room temperature. Under such conditions, the seedling will start to grow, and when transplanted into the ground, the shoots will have to be cut off - and this is a new stress for an already weakened plant.

By the way, rose seedlings with leaves, the root system of which is placed in a container or bag, can be planted in the ground no earlier than mid-May. Until that time, I advise you to store them in a bright and cool room, water them if necessary and be sure to “accustom” them to the open air.

Since roses are heat-loving plants, the planting site should be sunny and protected from cold winds. The groundwater level should be within 1-1.5 m. If the bushes are in the shade for most of the day, they will stretch, and dew on the leaves can contribute to the development of fungal diseases.

As for the wind, it harms the plants, constantly swaying the bushes and dehydrating the leaves.

Do not plant seedlings roses to the area where roses had already grown before. As a rule, the soil here is already depleted and can be infected with pests and pathogens. In this case, young rose bushes will get sick and may even die.

If it was not possible to find another place for the shrub, it is necessary to remove a layer of soil with a thickness of at least 50 cm and replace it with fresh soil. It is not recommended to plant roses under large trees and shrubs, as well as in low areas where there is a risk of flooding.

Most grafted roses do not make special demands on the soil, as they grow on a stable and unpretentious rootstock. However, this culture will like cultivated loamy and light clay soils rich in humus and well aerated. To make roses feel comfortable in areas with heavy clay soil, it is necessary to do drainage, add sand, humus, compost and peat to the planting pits. As for light sandy soils, they can be improved by adding turf or compost soil, organic fertilizers.

Since the root system of roses penetrates deep into the soil, its processing should be deep: 50-70 cm for grafted and at least 40 cm for own-rooted plants. Up to 30 kg/mg (or more) of manure, humus or peat compost is applied to the entire depth of the treated layer. The soil reaction should be slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6.5). On more acidic soils, it is necessary to add lime: 500 g / mg.

The appropriate time for planting grafted roses in our climate is autumn (September 1st to October 10th) or spring (April 20th to May 20th).

Novice gardeners are often afraid to plant roses in the fall, because they are afraid that the bush will not have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. In fact, at timely landing plants will have time to take root and with the onset of spring they will quickly start growing. The exception is standard and own-rooted roses, which are planted only in the spring

Before planting, each rose seedling must be carefully examined. If the plant is slightly dried, its roots are immersed in water for several hours. Having found damaged roots, they must be removed. In addition, during autumn planting, shoots are additionally shortened (up to 5-8 buds) and leaves are removed.

When planting roses, it is useful to use a clay mash (clay, manure and water in proportions of 3: 3: 10), to which you can add a root stimulant (for example, " Kornevin»).

If the area where the roses will grow is just being developed, the dimensions of the planting pit should be 60 × 60 cm, and its depth should be up to 60 cm. A drainage layer of pebbles or broken bricks should be laid on the bottom, then a 40-centimeter layer of fertile earth should be poured mixtures. If the soil on the site is already fertile, the planting pit can be made smaller - 30 × 30 or 40 × 40 cm (depending on the size of the root system).

Do not immediately bring into the planting hole mineral fertilizers It is better to give the plants time to settle down.

When planting, it is important not to bend the roots, but to evenly place them in the pit, falling asleep with soil. To ensure that the soil is well distributed between the roots, the plant is gently shaken, pressing the soil around the bush with your hands. In this case, the planting depth should be such that the root neck is completely in the ground.

After planting, rose seedlings are watered abundantly (even if the soil is moist enough) and sprinkled with earth by 10-15 cm. This will protect the base of the shoots from drying out and retain moisture in the soil.

Own-rooted roses look weaker than grafted roses, so they are sold only with a closed root system - in containers. They can be found on sale almost all year round, however, such a seedling can be “settled” on the site only from May to August. Such seedlings do not have a very well developed root system, so they often die in the first years after planting due to adverse environmental conditions. And most often the plants do not tolerate the first winter. In the third year, own-rooted roses build up a stronger root system and winter better.

On the eve of planting (about a week), the seedlings are hardened in partial shade. The shoots are pruned, because often the leaves turn yellow and fall off from a change in place and temperature. The planting hole must be dug about 2 times wider and slightly deeper than the container. It is important to keep an earthen clod when planting. Plants are buried in the soil 2-3 cm more than it was in the container, spud and watered. It is important at first to shade the roses from direct sunlight.

It is better to plant own-rooted roses on raised ridges to protect the roots of plants from getting wet.

When choosing own-rooted roses, experts advise paying attention to miniature, polyanthus, climbing or ground cover varieties that grow well on their own roots. At the same time, varieties of other groups (especially hybrid tea, large-flowered climbing, floribunda, scrubs) bloom better and tolerate cold more easily when grafted onto a stock.

Preparing a rose seedling for spring planting, I soak it for a day in a solution of " heteroauxin”(it is a root formation stimulant). After such treatment, the plant tolerates planting better and takes root faster. Too long or damaged roots are cut to healthy wood. Container roses before planting in the ground, I also pre-keep in water until the soil is completely saturated with moisture.

After soaking, I cut the seedlings, leaving 3-4 shoots with 2-3 buds on each. The length of the stems should be about 20 cm. Without fail, I remove diseased and dead stems. As for the roots, I remove only their dead parts, you can shorten the old roots a little (by 15 centimeters) so that new ones grow faster. I do not cut the roots of seedlings from containers.

After planting and compacting the soil around the bushes, I make an earthen roller - so that during subsequent irrigation, the water does not spread over the site. I complete the planting of roses by hilling with a layer of about 15 cm. When planting in autumn, I leave such a protective layer until spring, and then I level it. When planting in spring, I keep it for about 2 weeks - until the buds begin to open at the rose. Then I level the soil and mulch.

Valentina Porfirovna GOLNIK

Planting density is important for the further development of roses.

• miniature roses are planted at a distance of 30-35 cm from each other;
• floribunda And hybrid tea roses- at a distance of 60-80 cm from each other;
• park roses - at a distance of 100-110 cm from each other;
• climbing roses - at a distance of 1.2-2 m from each other.

I want to tell you how you can prepare the soil for planting roses. This can be done in several ways.

1. Before chopping the soil for 1 mg, I introduce 8-10 kg of decomposed manure, 300 g organic fertilizer"Deoxidizer", 3 tbsp. l. superphosphate, 2 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate and 2 tbsp. l. "Agricola" for flowering plants. I dig the soil to a depth of 35-40 cm.

2. For 1 mg of soil I apply 8-10 kg of peat compost or peat-manure compost, 0.5-1 kg of flower soil (for example, "Rose" or "Saintpaulia"), as well as mineral fertilizers - 1 tbsp. l. "Agricola" for flowering plants, 2 tbsp. l. nitrophoska, 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate and 300 g of wood ash. I dig the soil to a depth of 35-40 cm.

3. I dig a planting hole and add 2 kg of manure humus, 200 g of organic fertilizer (for example, "Flower"), 2 tbsp. l. "Agricola" for flowering plants and 1 glass of wood ash. All fertilizers are mixed with the ground and left in this form until planting.

4. I add 2 kg of peat-manure compost or vegetable humus, 200 g of "Deoxidizer" and mineral fertilizers - 2 tbsp each to the planting pit. l. superphosphate and potassium sulfate.

Do not use unrotted manure, as it can cause rotting of plant roots.

Veronika Salkevich

DIY container garden

With this interesting element landscape design, you can easily and quickly change the look of your garden, divide it into functional zones or “settle” heat-loving exotic cultures on the site. The container garden is a flight of your imagination, not limited square meters apartments or houses.

An interesting fact is that containers appeared in gardens a very long time ago: even in ancient Greece, it was customary to build the so-called "gardens of Adonis". To do this, clay pots and baskets with earth were placed near the houses, where women and girls planted seeds of fast-growing cereals and flowers.

container cultures in modern garden find different uses. They are especially relevant in the case when it is not possible to plant plants directly into the ground (for example, on sites with decorative filling or paving) or you need to decorate the most seemingly “hopeless” places (for example, in the shade). Container plantings can "travel", giving the impression of a dynamic, ever-changing garden.

In such containers, the most capricious plants can grow, which cannot endure the difficult climatic conditions of our country - they can be easily protected from bad weather by taking them into the house.

Containers for plants please with variety, but they are all divided into certain groups. According to the design, containers with holes are distinguished ( flower pots) and containers without holes (pots). Both of them can be quite small or, conversely, giants with a diameter of more than a meter.

For planting plants in pots, special conditions are needed, since there is no runoff of water, which means that it is more difficult for the roots to breathe. Most often, ordinary (corresponding in size and shape) flower pots with holes are inserted into the cache-pot, and flower or decorative crops are already planted in them. If the planting is done directly in the planter, the drainage layer should be larger: the container is filled with expanded clay and sand by at least a third, and the soil is chosen light.

Containers are made of ceramics, plastic, wood, metal. Since each of these materials has its own characteristics, planting and caring for them will also have to be different. Our "green pets" love ceramics most of all - it is hygroscopic (permits moisture), it maintains an optimal temperature regime, and plant roots breathe over the entire surface of the container. But these containers also have disadvantages: they are fragile and rather heavy. Plastic containers retain moisture well, are light and durable, but at the same time they “steam” the roots, which receive air only from the soil surface. Wooden containers are similar to ceramic ones in their merits, but they are extremely short-lived. Concerning metal containers, which look original and are diverse, the roots of plants do not breathe in them at all, and the containers themselves react to the slightest temperature fluctuations: they get very hot in the heat, and the roots quickly freeze in the cold.

Watering plants in pots should be done carefully and little by little.

When planting in containers, the main thing is to ensure the correct ratio of soil and drainage. For ceramic containers, it is enough to cover the bottom with expanded clay, and pour soil on top of it and plant plants. Landing in a wooden container is similar, only expanded clay will need more. In a plastic container on top of a layer of expanded clay, a layer of coarse-grained river sand about 1 cm thick, the soil is chosen light and mixed with perlite. When planting in a metal container, expanded clay should occupy approximately 1/3 of the height of the container, a layer of sand and light soil are poured over it.

Plants in containers experiencing constant lack of soil, nutrients, moisture. In this regard, it is necessary to water and feed such plants much more often than those that grow in open ground. At the same time, fertilizers can be used the same as for the main stationary flower beds, or you can purchase special ones - more concentrated.

In large containers (more than 30 cm in diameter) you can plant almost any garden flowers, and containers with a diameter of about 50 cm are also suitable for perennials.

In small containers, you can plant flower crops that do not suffer from soil deficiency: petunias, violas, lobelias, ageratum, marigolds, undersized varieties zinnia, asters, daisies, verbena, salvia, calendula, begonia, as well as all spring bulbs. But climbing plants need space, the only exception is sweet pea.

A container garden can become a convenient mobile composition, the appearance of which can be changed at will quite often. It is better to arrange containers with plants not in even rows, but along an arbitrary geometric path. You can use as unifying elements beautiful stones, garden figurines or small lamps (for example, solar-powered). The soil in containers can be decorated with colored pebbles or shells. Large containers can be wrapped with embossed fabric or burlap, thick twisted rope, or coconut coir.

According to landscape designers, a container garden will look stylish and original, where all the plants are placed in the same (in color, shape, material) containers. Another option is to plant flowers in each container in the same color as the container itself: for example, in a yellow container - yellow tulips.

When creating a container garden with your own hands, there is no need to adhere to any strict rules (with the exception of timely watering and following the recommendations for caring for a particular plant, of course). But there are several secrets that will help such a garden become even more beautiful and interesting.

So, if at least one tall plant is not included in the composition, it will seem inexpressive. The role of "giants" can be played by:

• amaranth;
• astilba;
• bamboo;
• bougainvillea;
• reed grass acuminate;
• hibiscus;
• eland;
• dwarf spruce;
• cypress obtuse;
• noble laurel;
• boxwood;
• thuja western;
• yucca.

And container gardens look especially attractive if they are not deficient in plants. So that not a single centimeter of soil is wasted, you can add low ground cover plants to tall "neighbors":

• decorative cabbage;
• caladium;
• coleus;
• ashen ragwort;
• chard;
• fennel multi-grate;
• spurge bordered;
• blue fescue;
• stonecrop;
• celosia;
• cineraria;
• spur flower.

Having got a taste and mastered the simple wisdom of container gardening, try to make your garden grow in all directions; wide, up and down. To do this, it is enough to supplement the composition with plants hanging down and stretching up.

As ampelous plants suitable for a container garden:

• azarin;
• alyssum;
• petiolate immortelle;
• brachycoma;
• verbena;
• iberis;
• lawrence;
• lobelia;
• nasturtium;
• pelargonium ivy;
• petunia ampelnaya;
• narrow-leaved zinnia.

From curly you can grow fast-growing vines:

• sweet peas;
• nasturtium;
• fiery red beans;
• morning glory.

In order for the container garden to please with bright colors and magical aromas throughout the season, plants need to be selected for it. according to the principle of a flower bed of continuous flowering. You can also plant evergreens in containers - for example, thuyu or boxwood, stonecrop or young.

Apothecary gardens

Many of us use medicinal herbs, but not everyone has the opportunity to harvest medicinal raw materials. This problem is especially relevant for urban residents. In this regard, more and more summer residents are trying to grow such plants on own site- simple, beautiful and useful.

There is an opinion that the first pharmaceutical gardens appeared in the Middle Ages in Italy, gradually spread to Europe and Russia, where for a long time they were the property of botanical gardens. Today, small pharmaceutical gardens can be found in summer cottages and household plots almost everywhere, but many gardeners do not even suspect how many medicinal and spice plants you can grow your own.

The beginning of a collection of home medicinal plants can be put in potted crops, which can be purchased at garden centers: rosemary, thyme, sage, mint, lemon balm and others. It is not necessary to plant these plants in open ground - in summer time they can decorate the garden as potted plants, and with the onset of cold weather they will take place on the kitchen windowsill. Container garden enthusiasts can create multi-herb arrangements in larger containers or decorative containers. interesting design solution will become vertical placement of plants, resembling a green wall of medicinal and herbs. At the same time, stationary beds with spices and medicinal plants can also be a great addition to the garden, since many of these crops are valued not only for their useful properties, but also for their decorative effect.

Most medicinal plants prefer sunlight, but some may grow and in partial shade: mint, lemon balm, catnip, lovage etc. Wild medicinal plants (St. John's wort, chamomile) in the garden it is necessary to create conditions close to natural.

When creating an apothecary garden, there are no strict rules. Plants for planting are chosen at will, taking into account the compatibility of crops.

Beginning gardeners are better off choosing undemanding, easy-to-grow crops ( dill, coriander, calendula, mint, catnip, oregano etc.), as well as pay attention to wild herbs - as a rule, they are extremely picky.

Making a choice in favor of the pharmacy garden, every gardener seeks to combine the benefits of plants with their attractiveness. An excellent solution would be flowering plants, crops with a spectacular texture or foliage color: lavender, flax, bergenia, thyme and etc.

IN pharmacy garden perennial and annual crops can be adjacent to each other, however, it is necessary to think over their planting schemes in advance so that the composition remains attractive throughout the season. Chives, for example, become untidy after flowering and need pruning, nasturtium blooms only by mid-summer, and coriander forms flower stalks a month after germination, so it will have to be sown regularly throughout the season.

It is worth thinking in advance about the preparation of healing raw materials and seasonings for the kitchen. Plants from which rhizomes will be harvested should not be planted next to perennials that are valuable in flowers or leaves.

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