Powdery mildew of hops. Powdery mildew: treatment and prevention, control measures

Downy mildew of hops. The causative agent is a pseudofungus of the Oomysta class Pseudoperonospora humuli Wilson.

The pathogen overwinters in the form of mycelium in the buds of plants, so the disease manifests itself already in early spring. Young shoots are thin, deformed, with shortened internodes, small chlorotic twisted leaves. The leaves are covered on the underside with a greenish-brown bloom of sporulation. Often the affected shoots become spike-shaped. Later, the disease manifests itself in the form of yellow-green spots limited by veins, which quickly necrotic. The infected parts of the flowers are underdeveloped and dry out. Integumentary leaves on fully formed cones acquire a brown-red color. At high humidity, all affected organs of plants are covered with bloom. Red-brown areas may appear on the roots, mottled with dark brown necrotic spotting.

The pathogen forms a highly branched unicellular mycelium. Conidiophores are highly branched, formed in bundles, at the ends of which unicellular lemon-shaped conidia are formed. They provide re-infection of plants during the growing season. In all affected tissues, spherical light brown oospores with a smooth thick shell are formed, which are the main source of primary infection.

Downy mildew is strongly manifested in cool and humid weather, fogs. Optimum temperature for pathogen development +20...+22°C, relative humidity 90-100%, and therefore the disease has two maxima in its development - in spring and autumn.

Powdery mildew of hops. The causative agent is a fungus of the class Fruity, or Euascomycetes, Sphaerotheca macularis P. Magn. f. sp. humuli Lev. (theliomorph); conidial stage (anamorph) Oidium jragariae Harz. This disease has a small distribution and is more common in low-growing stands. In the kidneys of the mother plant is the mycelium of the fungus. Shoots develop weak, with small leaves. In summer, powdery mildew manifests itself in the form of growing powdery raids covering the vegetative and generative organs of plants. At the end of the growing season, small black dots appear on the powdery coating - fungus cleistothecia.

They are spherical, contain 1 ascus (bag) with 8 unicellular ellipsoidal ascospores. Conidiophores are simple, on their top there are chains of ovoid unicellular thin-walled conidia.

Verticillium wilt of hops. The causative agent is a fungus of the class Hyphomycetes Verticillium albo-atrum Rke et Berch. Single spots of light green color develop on the leaves. Leaves first wither and then dry up. These signs may appear on individual shoots or on the entire plant. The lower part of the stem turns brown, more often the lesion is observed at a height of 10-30 cm from the ground. On the transverse section of the stem, it can be seen that the wood of the affected plants acquires a green-brown color. The causative agent infects the roots of plants directly or in places of damage.

The fungus forms characteristic erect, whorled branched conidiophores, on which unicellular small conidia are formed, which are of little importance as a source of secondary infection.

A pathogen is a typical soil-dwelling species that can develop saprotrophically in the soil, remaining in it and on plant debris more often in the form of microsclerotia. The fungus has many cultivated and wild hosts belonging to various botanical families.

The disease is more pronounced on plants cultivated on light sandy soils with a neutral or alkaline reaction of the soil solution. The optimal temperature for pathogen development is +20…+23°C.

The disease spreads with the help of infected cuttings, the main source of primary infection is also infected soil.

Plenodomus (root) hop rot. The causative agent is a fungus of the class Coelomycetes Plenodomus humuli Kusnetz.

The disease develops on heavy loamy soils with high acidity. Brown depressed spots appear on the underground parts of the stem and adjacent roots of the mother plant. Large (up to 1 mm) black pycnidia with thick walls are clearly visible on their surface. The spots grow, the root rots. With severe damage, the plant dies. Sometimes 1-2 stems die, but the rest give a reduced yield.

The main source of infection are plant residues in the soil. The pathogen enters the plant through damage. Especially strong infection is noted in the spring or autumn.

bacterial cancer. The causative agent is the bacteria Agrobacterium rhizogenes Riker et al. (syn. A. tumefaciens Conn). It affects the underground parts of hop plants, on which tumors of two types are formed:

1) tumors different forms and sizes (from a pea to a large chicken egg) without additional roots;

2) small tumors with a large number of flat thin additional roots.

Initially, there is a rapid growth of hops, then - its oppression. Tumors rot, the rhizomes of mother plants are destroyed, which leads to death. The disease is usually focal in nature.

The development of the disease is facilitated by a relative soil moisture of 60-80% and a temperature of about 18°C. Bacteria enter the plant through damage underground parts. The main source of infection is growths that remain in the soil.

Mosaic of hops. The causative agent is the Hop mosaic virus, belongs to the Carlavirus group and has filamentous virions. A very common disease of this crop leads to a decrease in yield.

Symptoms of the disease vary greatly depending on the susceptibility of genotypes. Some varieties have a large mosaic of leaves, while others have a lightening of the veins and leaves or a weak manifestation of mosaic. In a third group of very susceptible cultivars, the internodes on the top of the stems are severely shortened and become hard so that they cannot curl around the support. Lateral shoots are poorly developed, do not form peduncles, form very deformed cones. root system gradually dies off, and after 2-3 years the plant dies. There is a group of varieties that are tolerant to mosaic, the plants on the leaves do not have its symptoms. Only the middle lobe of the leaf is elongated and characteristically twisted.

The virus spreads from diseased plants to healthy ones with the help of several types of aphids: Phorogon humuil, Macrosiphum euphorbiae and Aphis fabae. The development of the disease depends very much on the dynamics of the summer of aphid species that carry the virus.

Chlorotic Mosaic and Necrotic Hop Curl. The Primus necrotic ringspot virus belongs to the Ilarvirus group and has isometric virions. It revealed two strains that cause respectively chlorotic and necrotic forms of the disease. Chlorotic mosaic and necrotic curl are common and harmful hop diseases. The first signs of infection vary greatly depending on the variety of strains, meteorological conditions and resistance of varieties, but can be grouped into two main types:

1. Chlorotic mosaic appears as yellow-green rings and stripes on lower leaves, gradually covering the side shoots, including the integumentary leaves of the cones. With summer warming, the symptoms become latent, appearing again in the fall. Plant growth is suppressed. Fruiting shoots are short, with a small number of non-standard loose cones.

2. Necrotic curl varies from slightly mosaic deformity and asymmetry to twisting of the leaf along the midrib followed by necrosis. In some varieties, the leaf blades have jagged edges and a strong dissection. The last internodes of plants are very shortened, and the apex is necrotic. From the lateral buds, new shoots appear that cannot curl around the supports. A few years after infection, the plants die.

The virus can be transmitted by vaccination and pollen, sometimes it is possible to spread the pathogen with seeds. New plantations should be planted with healthy planting material.

Arabis Mosaic, Rezuhi Mosaic on Hops. Rezuhi mosaic virus (Arabis mosaic virus) from the Nepovirus group, has isometric virions. Depending on the diversity of strains and the susceptibility of varieties, two types of manifestation of the disease are observed,

1. Nettiness of leaves is characterized by stunted growth of the main shoots, which cease to curl near the support. The leaves become smaller, the dissection of the leaf blades disappears, they become solid, their tops lengthen, and in general become similar to nettle leaves. The underside of the leaves becomes greenish, and the veins swell. Top part shoots gradually necrotic. Some shoots are very affected, others look healthy and develop normally. In plantation, the disease develops relatively slowly.

2. In some varieties, leaf rupture is observed. It appears as a yellowish oily blotch followed by rupture of the leaf blade. Diseased plants form several underdeveloped dark green or reddish shoots. The general growth and development of plants are suppressed.

With a mixed infection of arabis mosaic with chlorotic mosaic and necrotic curl, the signs of virus damage are more pronounced. The virus spreads during vaccination and nematodes Xiphinema index and X. diversicadatum.

We tell you how to deal with powdery mildew on various plants, shrubs and trees. We consider measures to combat and treat the disease, as well as what folk remedies and preparations (fungicides) are best treated.

Plus advice on plant protection and disease prevention.

How to deal with powdery mildew?

In order to get rid of the disease, it is necessary to apply effective measures struggle. As in destruction, the timing of the detection of infection plays an important role here - the sooner you notice and begin to fight, the greater the chance of success.

Fighting methods

1. Remove sluggish (lost turgor) shoots or leaves. If the infection has affected bushy species (for example, petunia, rose or peonies), experts advise cutting off as many of the affected shoots as possible. Radical pruning increases the chances of a successful plant treatment.
2. Burn plant debris.
3. Replace the top layer of soil near the plant in the garden or near the indoor flower in. Try to pour wood ash on top with a layer of 1-2 cm.
4. Spray with special means (fungicides) to kill fungi. Processing should be plentiful, so that the leaves and shoots "bath" in the solution and from them, so that "already flowed."
   Small specimens can be immersed in a container with the drug diluted in it. Spraying is advised to supplement with a strait of earth, and for indoor flowers, wipe the window sill, pallets and containers with a medicinal solution.
5. Carry out several treatments after the time indicated in the instructions for the fungicide.

Additional measures

The success of the struggle largely depends on the comprehensive care of the plant, shrub or tree. To destroy powdery mildew, be sure to follow the rules of agricultural technology. Read about prevention at the end of the article.

1. Thin out thickened plantings and remove leaves that touch the soil.
2. During treatment, do not spray the plants and water only when the top layer of the earth is dry.
3. Reduce nitrogen fertilization to a minimum, and increase the proportion of potassium and phosphorus to increase the plant's resistance to fungus.
4. Stricken indoor flower put in a sunnier place.

Powdery mildew remedy

To remove the ashpel, like most fungal diseases, you need to treat the plants with preparations containing various connections sulfur, copper or other chemicals. Powdery mildew fungicides mainly contain copper sulfate, colloidal sulfur or copper chloride.

According to experts, chemicals based on sulfur more effectively destroy the fungus. Sometimes you can hear about the treatment of powdery mildew with antibiotics (penicillin, tetracycline), but experts believe that they do not destroy the fungus and there is no point in using them.

• Some flower growers are interested in the effectiveness of the application " Bordeaux liquid". Therefore, we recall that this mixture is a popular, affordable and very powerful tool in the fight against many fungal diseases, but it is not suitable for the destruction of ashtrays.

Powdery mildew on grapes

Effective drugs

1. "Copper sulfate" (3, copper sulfate). Price: 100 gr - 26 rubles.
2. "Colloidal sulfur" (2, 3). Price: 40 gr - 10-15 rubles.
3. "Thiovit Jet" (3, colloidal sulfur). Price - 100 rubles. Cucumbers, pears, apple trees are especially suitable for the prevention and treatment of oidium on grapes.
4. "Topaz" (3, penconazole). Price: 2 ml - 32 rubles.
5. "Fundazol" (2, 3, benomyl).
6. Also quite popular: "Zato", "Kvadris", "Forecast", "Tilt" and "Topsin-M".

Prices are taken from hypermarkets like "Leroy Merlin", "Obi" at a rate of 1 dollar = 65 rubles.

"Copper vitriol"

This substance has a pronounced fungicidal effect. You can only process once per season. Therefore, it is better to sprinkle with copper sulphate in early spring, and when a disease appears, treat it with modern preparations.

Application

• Spraying shrubs and trees before bud break: 50 grams blue vitriol dissolve ten liters of water.
• 2nd OPTION. In 500 ml hot water dissolve 30-40 grams of vitriol + separately stir 150-200 grams of soap chips in nine liters of warm water. Then pour the copper sulfate solution into the soapy one. You need to pour in carefully, stirring constantly the soapy solution.

Attention!"Copper vitriol" is a toxic agent, so it must be used with personal protection measures and in moderation in the garden or vegetable garden so that there is no excess copper in the soil.

On the Internet, you can find tips on preparing a more concentrated solution (80-100 grams per 10 liters), however, experts consider a 3-4% mixture to be optimal.

"Sulfur colloidal"

Is popular and effective tool in the fight against powdery mildew. Suitable for protection various kinds crops and trees. An important feature fungicide is that it can be treated even three days before harvest.

Application

• Quince, pear, apple tree: 40-50 grams per 10 liters of water, 1-6 sprays, 2-5 liters. on a tree.
• Watermelon, melon, zucchini, cucumbers, pumpkin: 20 g per 10 liters of water / weave.
• Grapes: 30-50 grams per 10 liters of water, 4-6 treatments, 1-1.5 l/plant.
• Ornamental crops (clematis, peony, rose), bushes (blackcurrant), strawberries: dissolve 30-50 grams in 10 liters of water. Roses are sprayed 2-4 times 3-4 liters. per 50 sq.m., and blackcurrant - 1-2 times - l / bush.
• Beets: 10 g per 2-2.5 liters of water, spraying during the growing season.

Attention!

Optimum temperature for treatments: 27-32°C, if it is less than 20°C, then it does not destroy the fungus, and if it is 32-35°C, then reduce the dosage, and if it is above 35°C, then do not spray.

When working with sulfur, you need to be very careful, protect your skin and wear a respirator.

"Topaz"

Powdery mildew treatment is carried out as a prevention and treatment. "Topaz" is one of the most effective chemicals. Strong therapeutic effect - three days, preventive - 7-8 days. The interval between treatments is 12-18 days.

Application

• Grapes: dissolve 2 ml in 10 liters of water, 1.5-2 l / bush. Up to 4 procedures.
• Gooseberries: 6 ml per 10 liters of water, 1-1.5 l / bush, up to 2 sprays.
• Strawberries, cucumbers (greenhouse, vegetable garden): 6 ml per 10 liters of water, 5 liters per hundred square meters, up to 2 times.
• Violets: 2 ml per 4 liters of water. Usually one spray is sufficient.
• Blackcurrant: 9 ml per 10 liters of water, 2 l/plant, up to 2 treatments.
• Apple tree: 10-12 ml per 10 liters of water, 2-5 l/tree, up to 3 times.

"Fundazol"

One of the most popular contact and systemic fungicides. At the moment, it is not included in the list of drugs for personal household plots, therefore, it is not sold in small packages in stores.

The official release form: 5, 10 and 20 kg, but if you wish, you can find 10 gr in manual packaging - 60-80 rubles.

Application

• Pear, apple tree: 10 g per 10 liters of water, up to 5 times. The first treatment before flowering - 2 liters per young tree, and 4-5 per adult.
• Strawberries, strawberries: 10 g per 10 liters of water, up to 2 times. Spray before flowering and after picking berries - 1 liter per 6-7 sq.m.
• Gooseberries, currants: 10 g per 10 liters of water, no more than 2 times per season - before flowering and after harvesting.
• Tomatoes, rose, cucumbers: 10 gr per 10 liters of water. Spray no more than 2 times per season, and roses - 4 at the first symptoms of the fungus.

Biofungicides

These products of biological origin contain live bacteria that inhibit the reproduction of pathogenic fungus. Due to its environmental safety plants can be treated with biofungicides even during fruit ripening.

Their effectiveness in the treatment of powdery mildew is lower than that of chemical preparations, as is the period of action (multiple applications are required). That's why, biological preparations optimally suited for plant protection (prophylaxis).

The most common biofungicides for powdery mildew control are Alirin-B, Pseudobacterin-2 and Fitosporin.

"Fitosporin"

This drug can be effectively used only for the prevention, protection of a plant, bush or tree, or with very early detection and is not suitable for treatment. Price: 10 gr - 15 rubles.

Folk remedies for powdery mildew

Most experts agree that the use of folk remedies it is advisable as a prophylaxis or at the very beginning of infection, ideally the first 2-3 days.

If the fungus struck the plant more than 5-7 days ago, then it will be possible to get rid of powdery mildew with folk remedies in a rare case.

wood ash

Stir 200 grams (glass) of wood ash in five liters of water (35-40°C) and infuse for 4-5 days, stirring in the morning and evening. Then drain the infusion without undissolved residue and add a tablespoon of soap shavings. Processing is carried out every two days, no more than three sprayings.

Add five liters of water to the remaining ashes from the infusion, stir and water the plants.

• It is also helpful to sprinkle wood ash on the ground near plants and shrubs to prevent fungus.

Iodine

Dilute 1 ml of iodine in a liter of water, and for the treatment of roses - 1 ml per 400 ml. Experts believe that for prevention and at the first signs of the disease, an iodine solution is very effective and also safe, but more powerful means are needed for treatment in the later stages.

soda ash

Dissolve 10 g of soda ash in two liters of hot water and add a teaspoon of chips laundry soap or liquid soap. After cooling, treat the plants and the top layer of the soil substrate with the resulting solution. Spraying is carried out every 6-8 days, only 2-3 times.

2nd RECIPE. Dilute five grams of soda ash and half a teaspoon with shavings of laundry soap or liquid soap in 500 ml of water. In a separate container, stir one gram of copper sulfate and pour it into the solution with soda. Then add 500 ml of water and spray the plants with the resulting solution.

• With a solution of soda ash, many flower growers like to process indoor flowers (Kalanchoe, indoor rose, violets, orchid and others).

Onion

Pour 100 grams of onion peel with five liters of hot water and let it brew for 1-2 days. Then strain and spray.

Potassium permanganate

Dissolve 1 gram of potassium permanganate in 4 liters of water. Treat plants, shrubs or trees with the resulting solution 2-3 times every 6-8 days. Best time for spraying - after rain.

Especially successfully with the help of potassium permanganate they fight powdery mildew on grapes.

A solution of potassium permanganate is most effectively used as a prophylaxis or for early stages as an environmentally friendly product.

Milk

Abroad, milk is a popular and proven folk remedy for powdery mildew among gardeners and small organic farms.

Dilute the milk with water 1 to 10, and spray the plants at the first sign of infection or for prevention. For the treatment of the disease, they are treated every 5-7 days until the fungus is destroyed.

Studies have shown that the effectiveness of milk is comparable to many fungicides, and often better than benomyl and fenarimol at a higher concentration. Scientists have not fully unraveled the mechanism of action, but it can be said for sure that the whey protein ferroglobulin produces oxygen radicals when exposed to sunlight and they kill the fungus.

• The effectiveness of milk has been repeatedly confirmed in the treatment of grapes, zucchini, roses and pumpkins.

Serum

An alternative to milk is whey, which leaves less residue on the leaves. Dilute whey with water 1 to 10. Spray with a solution every 3-4 days at least 3 times, and for prevention once every two weeks. The solution covers the leaves with a film that complicates the breathing of the fungus, and supplies the plant with nutrients.

2nd RECIPE. Some experts advise serum to be diluted with water 1 to 3.

In the literature, you can find other folk remedies (for example, manure, horsetail, garlic). We have listed the most effective and affordable options for use, which have been repeatedly tested by flower growers and gardeners around the world.

What is the best fungicide?

To control powdery mildew at home, we advise using the least toxic agents first, such as a fungicide of the 3rd or 4th hazard class.

In the garden and garden, it is reasonable to regularly carry out preventive measures to protect plants with the help of folk remedies (potassium permanganate, iodine, onion peel, milk, whey) or biofungicides.

And it is already better to treat powdery mildew with modern drugs ("Topaz"), colloidal sulfur ("Thiovit Jet") or soda ash.

Powdery mildew prevention and protection

• Proper agricultural practices and crop rotation.
• Use of fungus-resistant varieties.
• Timely top dressing with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers increases the resistance of plants to pathogens of fungal diseases.
• It is also necessary to avoid excess nitrogen fertilizers, especially during the budding period.
• Pruning and complete destruction (burning) of affected shoots and plant debris, including in autumn. Deep autumn plowing in the garden and orchard.
• Garden and indoor plants and flowers are recommended to be pollinated every month from May to September with iodine, potassium permanganate, wood ash, a solution of milk or whey. Also scatter wood ash in a thin layer over the surface of the earth.
• Sterilization of the soil mixture in houseplants. Support optimal level humidity and regular ventilation of the room.

Seed preparation before sowing

Immerse the seeds in water with a temperature of +50 ° C for 15-20 minutes, and then for 2-3 minutes in cold water. Soak the seeds in a dressing agent.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

We wish you good luck and a great harvest!

Unfortunately, many gardeners are well aware of this plant disease. She meets on garden trees and shrubs, vegetable crops(cucumbers, zucchini, squash), as well as on many flowers. Let's try to find ways to fight.

On the surface of the leaves of the affected plant appears white coating mycelium, on which, after maturation of spores, drops of liquid form - hence the name "powdery mildew". Mycelium is located in spots most often on leaves and young shoots, but also on petioles, stalks and fruits. The infection usually begins with leaves located closer to the ground and gradually spreads to the entire plant. Infection of fruits leads to their cracking and decay.

What does it look like: Powdery mildew can be recognized by a greyish-white bloom or characteristic dark brown globules on the surface of leaves and young stems. Over time, the plaque becomes denser and then turns brown.

What caused: Powdery mildew is a mycelium that lives off the plant. The dark brown balls are her spores.

pathogens: The name of the disease reflects the description of the symptoms of infection common to different types various imperfect mushrooms. For example:

• Uncinula necator - causes powdery mildew to appear on the vine,
• Sphaerotheca mors - on gooseberries,
• Erysiphe graminis - on cereals
• Sphaerotheca pannosa forma persicae - on peach,
• Erysiphe communis - on sugar beet,
• Sphaerotheca pannosa Lew. var. rosae Voron. - on a rose
• Erysiphe cichoracearum, Sphaerotheca fuliginea - on gourds

What is dangerous: Plants lose decorative look. Severely affected parts of plants stop growing, turn black and die. Diseased inflorescences do not form ovaries. Even seemingly not a strong defeat leads to sharp decline winter hardiness in shoots and buds, which leads to their freezing.

When it appears: Infection begins in early summer, when spores are released from the fruiting body of the overwintered fungus.

What contributes: The development of powdery mildew occurs in hot dry times with sharp fluctuations in temperature and humidity. Sometimes after excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers, after a strong anti-aging pruning, which significantly reduces the resistance of plants.

How it spreads: Wind blown or water spray when watering. By direct contact with a plant of the same species.

Vegetable crops of the pumpkin family, suffering from powdery mildew, very often lose 50% of their yield, and the quality of the fruit also decreases. It should be noted that cucumbers grown in greenhouses are more affected by the disease in drafts, poor lighting, when the physiological state of the plants worsens. As a result, the resistance of the cucumber against the disease decreases. As a rule, the first foci appear near doors and vents. Entire lashes die from the disease, and all planted plants can die within a short time.

Prevention and methods of dealing with powdery mildew

It is important to carry out control measures on time, being late threatens to spread the infection over large areas.

Since the villain mushroom hibernates on plant debris, the first and necessary measure powdery mildew control cleaning and burning plant residues, crop rotation. The use of resistant and weakly affected hybrids.

Overfeeding plants with nitrogenous fertilizers, especially during the budding period, increases the risk of powdery mildew. Against, top dressing with phosphorus and potash fertilizers increases resistance to powdery mildew pathogen.

The appearance of the disease on currants and gooseberries causes the curvature of shoots that lag behind in growth, the leaves become small, ugly and, after a while, dry out. On gooseberries, in addition to shoots, fruits are also affected, first white and then darkening spots form on them. They stop growing, shrivel and may fall off. The development of the disease is promoted not only by humid hot weather, but also by excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers, strong rejuvenating pruning, which significantly reduce the resistance of plants.

An important condition for the fight against the disease is spring clipping of affected ends of shoots on gooseberries and currants. Fertilizing with phosphorus and organic fertilizers. In the periods before flowering and after harvesting, the plants need to be treated with fungicides.

Leaves, flowers, young shoots are affected on the apple tree. The leaves stop growing, curl up and fall off. Affected shoots and buds freeze in winter, the winter hardiness of trees decreases sharply. Powdery mildew is more pronounced on old trees, in neglected, uncircumcised gardens, on plants located on the southern and southwestern slopes.

In strawberries, raspberries, rose hips, all above-ground organs fall ill, more often leaves that coarsen, their edges twist in the form of a boat, exposing the underside, which eventually acquires a bronze hue. In late summer - early autumn, such leaves are especially noticeable. A slight powdery coating forms on the berries, and they acquire a specific mushroom smell.

In flowers, leaves affected by powdery mildew darken and fall off.

On trees, it is necessary to cut out the affected shoots in a timely manner and carry out the treatment with fungicides in the phases of nomination-separation of buds.

Use of fungicides

Chemical measures to combat powdery mildew, when applied in a timely and correct manner, are quite effective.

Fungicides (fungus - mushroom and caedo - kill) is chemical substances for the control of fungal plant diseases.

Of the modern fungicides against powdery mildew, it is worth noting the drugs: Bayleton, Zato, Quadris, Rayok, Skor, Tilt, Topaz, Topsin, Fundazim, Fundazol, Acrobat Mts 69%, Kuproskat, Mancozeb (manganese dithiocarbamide), Thiovit Jet (colloidal sulfur), Impact, Strobi - broad-spectrum fungicides, (Basf). All drugs are used in accordance with the instructions, without exceeding the dosage.

There have been cases of the emergence of resistant races of the fungus to chemicals on some crops, so the breeding of varieties resistant to powdery mildew is an extremely topical issue.

Use of biofungicides against powdery mildew

Biofungicides are biological preparations that are designed to protect plants from fungal diseases. They include live bacterial cultures that inhibit the reproduction of pathogenic fungi.

Due to the fact that biofungicides are environmentally friendly, they can be used even during the ripening period of the fruit. In terms of effectiveness, they are inferior to chemical preparations, and their action is limited in time. They are used multiple times.

The most famous biofungicides against powdery mildew: Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Gamair, Pseudobacterin-2, Planriz.

Folk remedies against powdery mildew

• 1st recipe: dissolve 4 grams of soda ash in 1 liter of water, add 4 grams of soap. Mix thoroughly and spray the plants 2 times at weekly intervals.
• 2nd recipe: pour 0.5 cups of ash into 1 liter of boiling water, leave for 2 days, strain, add 4 grams of soap, previously diluted in water. Treat twice with an interval of 7 days. With a strong lesion, there may be more treatments.
• 3rd recipe: Fresh mullein. To prepare the product, you need to pour 1/3 of a bucket of fresh manure with cold water and leave for 3 days, stirring occasionally. Then filter through a dense cloth and dilute with water in a ratio of 1:10. Spray the plants in the evening to avoid sunburn. Fresh infusion is prepared before each treatment.
• 4th recipe: Fermented water. To combat powdery mildew, you can use any garden weeds; with their help, the so-called fermented grass is prepared. To do this, pour 1/2 bucket of finely chopped weeds to the top hot water, mix and infuse for several days, then strain through cheesecloth. Spray in the evening.
• 5th recipe: Sour milk or kefir (yogurt). The preparation for spraying is prepared from the separated fermented milk whey, it is diluted in a ratio of 1:10 with cold water and mixed until a homogeneous solution is obtained. The finished solution is filled into the sprayer and the plants are treated.

Our grandmothers, growing strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, were not particularly worried about mulching. But today this agricultural practice has become fundamental in achieving High Quality berries and reduce crop losses. Some might say it's troublesome. But practice shows that labor costs in this case pay off handsomely. In this article, we invite you to get acquainted with the nine the best materials for mulching garden strawberries.

Succulents are very versatile. Despite the fact that “kids” have always been considered more fashionable, the assortment of succulents with which you can decorate modern interior, it is worth taking a closer look. After all, colors, sizes, patterns, degree of pricklyness, influence on the interior are just a few of the parameters by which you can choose them. In this article we will talk about the five most fashionable succulents that miraculously transform modern interiors.

Mint was used by the Egyptians as far back as 1.5 thousand years BC. It has a strong aroma due to the high content of various essential oils with high volatility. Today, mint is used in medicine, perfumery, cosmetology, winemaking, cooking, ornamental gardening, and the confectionery industry. In this article, we will look at the most interesting varieties mint, and also talk about the features of growing this plant in the open field.

People began to grow crocuses 500 years before the advent of our era. Although the presence of these flowers in the garden is fleeting, we always look forward to the return of the heralds of spring next year. Crocuses - one of the earliest primroses, whose flowering begins as soon as the snow melts. However, the timing of flowering may vary depending on the species and varieties. This article focuses on the earliest varieties of crocuses that bloom in late March and early April.

Shchi from early young cabbage in beef broth is hearty, fragrant and easy to prepare. In this recipe, you will learn how to cook delicious beef broth and cook light cabbage soup with this broth. Early cabbage cooks quickly, so it is placed in the pan at the same time as the rest of the vegetables, unlike autumn cabbage, which takes a little longer to cook. Ready cabbage soup can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Real cabbage soup is tastier than freshly cooked.

Looking at the variety of varieties of tomatoes, it is difficult not to get confused - the choice is very wide today. He sometimes confuses even experienced gardeners! However, it is not so difficult to understand the basics of selecting varieties “for yourself”. The main thing is to understand the peculiarities of culture and start experimenting. One of the easiest tomato groups to grow are varieties and hybrids with limited growth. They have always been appreciated by those gardeners who do not have much time and energy to care for the beds.

Once very popular under the name of indoor nettles, and then forgotten by everyone, coleuses today are one of the most striking garden and indoor plants. They are not in vain considered stars of the first magnitude for those who are looking primarily for non-standard colors. Easy to grow, but not so undemanding as to suit everyone, coleus require constant supervision. But if you take care of them, bushes of velvety unique leaves will easily outshine any competitor.

Salmon backbone baked in Provence herbs is a "supplier" of delicious pieces of fish pulp for light salad with fresh wild garlic leaves. The mushrooms are lightly fried olive oil and then drizzle with apple cider vinegar. Such mushrooms are tastier than ordinary pickled ones, and they are better suited for baked fish. Ramson and fresh dill coexist perfectly in one salad, emphasizing the flavor of each other. Garlic sharpness of wild garlic will saturate both the flesh of salmon and pieces of mushrooms.

Conifer tree or a shrub on the site is always great, and a lot of conifers is even better. Emerald needles of various shades decorate the garden at any time of the year, and phytoncides and essential oils, secreted by plants, not only flavor, but also make the air cleaner. Generally, most zoned adults coniferous plants, are considered very unpretentious trees and shrubs. But young seedlings are much more capricious and require competent care and attention.

Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics in the shade flowering trees have long been an integral attribute of the meeting of spring in the Country rising sun. Financial and academic year here begins on April 1, when the magnificent sakura blossoms. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese pass under the sign of their flowering. But sakura also grows well in cooler regions - certain types can be successfully grown even in Siberia.

It is very interesting for me to analyze how people's tastes and preferences for certain foods have changed over the centuries. What was once considered tasty and traded lost its value over time and, conversely, new fruit crops conquered their markets. Quince has been cultivated for more than 4 thousand years! And even in the 1st century BC. e. about 6 varieties of quince were known and even then the methods of its reproduction and cultivation were described.

Make your family happy and make themed Easter egg-shaped cottage cheese cookies! Your children will be happy to take part in the process - they will sift the flour, combine all the necessary ingredients, knead the dough and cut out intricate figures. Then they will watch with admiration as the pieces of dough turn into real ones. Easter eggs, and then with the same enthusiasm they will eat them with milk or tea. How to make such original cookies for Easter, read in our step by step recipe!

There are not so many decorative and deciduous favorites among tuberous crops. And the caladium is a true star among the variegated inhabitants of the interiors. Not everyone can decide to start a Caladium. This plant is demanding, and first of all - to care. But still, the rumors about the unusual capriciousness of the Caladium never justify. Attention and care allow you to avoid any difficulties when growing caladiums. And a plant can almost always forgive small mistakes.

We have prepared a hearty, incredibly appetizing and simply elementary dish for you today. This gravy is one hundred percent universal, as it will suit every side dish: vegetables, pasta, and anything. Gravy with chicken and mushrooms will save you in moments when there is no time or you don’t want to think too much about what to cook. Grab your favorite side dish (you can make this ahead of time to keep it hot), add gravy and dinner is ready! A real lifesaver.

Among the many different varieties of these most popular vegetables, we will talk about three that are distinguished by excellent taste and relatively unpretentious growing conditions. Characteristics of eggplant varieties "Diamond", "Black Handsome" and "Valentina". All eggplants have pulp medium density. In "Almaz" it is greenish, and in the other two it is yellowish-white. They are united by good germination and excellent yield, but in different time. Everyone's skin color and shape is different.

Symptoms and treatment of powdery mildew on currants

Powdery mildew is a common fungal disease fruit crops. If you do not take up treatment in time, then you can lose not only the seasonal crop, but also the plant as a whole. Powdery mildew on currants has its own characteristic features. Treatment of the disease is possible folk ways and with the help of special chemicals.

Causes and signs of development of powdery mildew

On currants, powdery mildew develops from microscopic spore fungi that are found in the soil or carried by the wind. With the same symptoms, each plant has its own powdery mildew pathogen. In other words, a disease that has developed on cucumbers cannot infect gooseberries or cherries.

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Leaf curl is the first sign of powdery mildew on currants.

Infection occurs in mid-spring or early summer. After the onset of hot and humid weather, the spores burst, the disease begins to develop actively and completely infects the plant in just 2 months. Characteristic features powdery mildew are:

• blanching, twisting and covering the leaves with a white coating that is not erased by mechanical action;
• slowdown or complete cessation of the growth of the bush;
• coating of formed berries with bloom, shedding of young fruits;
• drying of shoots.

Powdery mildew significantly reduces the frost resistance of plants. If measures are not taken in time, the currant may die not from the disease itself, but from the upcoming frosts.

How to deal with powdery mildew on currants

For the treatment and prevention of disease, there are folk recipes and specialized chemicals. In both cases, spray the shrub with a spray gun from the bottom up. If there is no such device, use a soft brush. Process currants in the evening in dry weather.

If the disease is detected in early stages, the following tools are suitable for processing:

• a solution of 25 g of soda ash per 5 liters of water;
• 1 kg of sifted wood ash and a grated bar of laundry soap mixed in 10 liters of water;
• a solution of potassium permanganate at the rate of 3 g of the substance per 10 l;
• 3 liters of whey diluted in 7 liters of water with the addition of a teaspoon of copper sulfate.

In the later stages, the shrub can only be cured with special chemicals. The most popular are "Fundizol", "Topaz" and "Vitaros". A solution of copper or iron sulphate at the rate of 30 g per 10 liters of water has proven itself well.

Powdery mildew develops very quickly on all types of currants. After identifying the first signs, treat the bush as soon as possible, do not forget to remove fallen leaves for the winter, in which fungus spores may be hiding.