Kobeya: landing and care. Kobe climbing growing from seeds - the main secrets of obtaining healthy varietal plants

Kobeya has become one of the three types of vines new to me that I first grew in the last garden season (2011). And at least two other creepers ("Solar Serenade", hyacinth beans or ) also impressed me with their beauty, but the winner in the Beauty Contest among beginners was kobeya. It was the kobeya that left its liana rivals far behind and conquered me unconditionally!

I will share with the readers of the site site my experience and important conclusions that I made when growing kobei. I hope that my advice will help other flower growers not to make annoying mistakes when growing kobei from seeds in order to admire its wonderful flowering for a long time.

Growing and breeding kobei

Kobeya (Cobaea) - a genus of tall, curly or clinging, flowering shrub plants, which includes 9 species native to the tropics of America.

With the availability of seeds on sale, more and more Russian gardeners are growing tropical kobe ​​climbing(Cobaea scandens) two varieties - with purple and white flowers.
But the heat-loving kobeya does not tolerate cold! Therefore, in Russia, where the climate is far from tropical, perennial climbing kobe is more often used as. Although, if stored in a cool place in the winter in a container with the roots of the plant, kobeya can be grown as a perennial plant.

It is difficult to find another vine that is as decorative and rapidly growing as kobeya.
Numerous kobei stems reach 4-6 meters in length, and the openwork compound-pinnate leaves covering them create an elegant one. Strong tenacious tendrils of kobei help the plant to climb great height and attach to any surfaces on the support.

Large kobei flowers (up to 8 cm in diameter) are very beautiful, bell-shaped, with long stamens and pistil protruding outwards. First, the color of the opening flowers is green, and then the kobei flowers change color - they become purple or white, depending on the variety.

Growing kobei under the power of most gardeners, but certain skills are required subject to the conditions of agricultural technology.
Kobeya prefers a sunny location, although he can tolerate some partial shade.
She desires fertile, well-drained garden soils.
Since kobeya is susceptible to attacks (and), it is necessary to regularly inspect the vine and provide assistance in time when pests appear.
Kobeya grows well with sufficient soil moisture, but with excessive moisture, the plant may develop root rot.

Kobeya is propagated by seeds or vegetatively - by rooting cuttings, if mother plants were preserved in winter.

My experience of sowing kobei

To save other gardeners from repeating my mistakes made when sowing kobei seeds, I’ll first talk about how I didn’t get kobei ...
For the first time I sowed a kobe about five years ago. I sowed it in early April with dry seeds.
Germinating kobei seeds was a real challenge then, both for them and for me. Kobei sprouts that appeared from the ground could not get rid of the seed coat on their own. And then I had to manually help the seeds to be released (and given that I had previously been engaged in obstetrics and obstetrics 40 years ago, and then with a neighbor's cat, the necessary skills were not formed ...). As a result, not all of the kobei shoots were destined to see the white light: out of five seedlings, only one "misunderstanding" barely survived ...

I brought this plant into the garden in June, around the end of the first decade. Gradually, my seedling began to straighten, branch and grow stronger. And by the end of August it was already a pretty vine of normal size.
But I never saw flowers in my first kobei. Because the very first autumn frost, which occurred in early September, put an end to this story. After all, tropical kobeya is very thermophilic!

In the previous garden season, I decided to plant a kobe near the arch, where I used to grow not very successful clematis. He himself did not cling to the provided support, so he had to constantly direct and fix the growing shoots of clematis to the cells of the grid - it really bothered me. I had to part with such a troublesome clematis ...
While new clematis - candidates for planting at the arch - grow up in school, my arch should not be empty. And so last year I decided to plant a purple kobe next to the arch.

I bought two packets of kobei seeds to make sure I grow them! Each sachet contained 5 large seeds.
Decided to sow 6 seeds. On the eve of sowing, in the evening, I soaked the kobei seeds in a solution (I prefer to use HB-1 or Epin).

Ha photo: kobei seeds; sowing kobei in foil sleeves

I sowed kobei seeds on March 16 (many flower growers middle lane made sure that mid-March is a very good time for sowing kobei).
In order not to injure the roots of kobei seedlings with a pick, each seed was placed in. I made such foil sleeves (I wrapped a plastic jar of medicines in 2-3 layers with foil). The use of these sleeves excluded the slightest damage to the root system, which helped to avoid growth retardation in connection with this. I sprinkled the seeds on top with soil, a layer of 1-1.5 cm.

The first shoots of kobei appeared on March 24 (on the 8th day after sowing). First, three sprouts sprouted, and a little later two more - in total, 5 seedlings were obtained from six seeds.
It was possible to sum up the first results: this time, after soaking the seeds, there was no torment during their germination, as in the first unsuccessful sowing of kobei. Now each sprout freely came to the surface of the soil already without seed coats.

Transplantation and hardening of kobei seedlings

I transplanted kobei seedlings from sleeves into cups already on March 28th. First, she poured abundantly on the seedlings, and then carefully unfolded the foil and removed the sprout with an undisturbed clod of earth. The roots of seedlings with this method of germination and transplantation were not damaged at all!

In the photo: kobei seedlings in foil sleeves; kobei seedling removed from foil; kobei seedlings are placed in cups.

As a result, all five transplanted kobei seedlings were transplanted without problems. Of these, I decided to keep three plants for myself, and gave two to a friend.

I gave the kobei seedlings a couple of days to adapt after transplantation, and then sent them to glazed loggia- get hot!

Kobe seedling care

Kobei seedlings on the loggia unanimously went to growth. I watered them the same way I would water the rest of the seedlings.
I fed a developing kobe 2 times. I didn’t fertilize anymore - I was afraid that the kobei would grow too long shoots, which would then be problematic to transport to the garden.

In the growing kobei, as it developed, thin brown antennae began to appear, branched at the ends - these turned out to be such “Velcros” that you couldn’t get past them :) They strove to cling to clothes ... But then it was easy to remove the hooked antennae without damaging them when this.

In early April, kobei seedlings were transplanted from plastic cups into 3-4-liter plastic pots. It was necessary to do this so that young plants could develop a powerful root system, and the shoots of the plant by the time they were transplanted into the flower garden were well formed and strengthened. In the literature, I met recommendations to plant a kobe even in a bucket, but I decided to limit myself to large pots.

In a spacious dish, my kobes began to grow actively. I had to tie the shoots of seedlings with thin nylon cords to the clothesline on the loggia :)
To provide support for seedlings, kobei are advised to use thin sticks. But I didn't have them at the time. And as it turned out later, cords or ropes are even more convenient support than a long stick. Because when transporting kobei seedlings to the dacha, the entire liana, together with the cord, is neatly folded into a ring and delivered to the garden without damage.

Planting kobei seedlings in open ground

I planted kobei seedlings in the garden in early June.
Prepared in advance landing pits filling them with fertile soil.
By the time of landing in open ground my kobei creepers reached a height of about a meter.

Before planting, she abundantly watered the plants in pots, then removed a clod of earth from the pots, while carefully holding the liana rolled up in a ring.
It is good if someone will help you during this operation. I had an assistant, but I kept saying: "Quiet, quiet! I myself!" :)))

The extracted clod of earth with the root system of the kobei was lowered into a hole, buried, and watered.
Then, very carefully, the vine was released from the rope (or rather, the auxiliary cord was separated from the vine). In order not to break or damage the thin tendrils of the kobei seedlings, I cut the cord in several places - thus, it was very easy to extract its segments.

Then quickly and easily it turned out to lift the vines freed from the cord onto the arch.
On the arch I have started plastic mesh with large cells so that the vine has a reliable support.

In the photo: kobei liana is developing; kobeya braided the arch

So my kobei seedlings were planted in the garden, and then they received caring care.
In order for the kobeya to gain green mass faster, I did it every week. alternated organic fertilizers with mineral dressings (infusion of blood meal and "Kemira").

And yet - a rapidly developing kobe needs regular watering, especially good watering required!
Kobei creepers with such care grew "by leaps and bounds", very quickly braiding the arch.

kobei flowering

In July, I suddenly noticed that all the kobei shoots were covered with unusual neoplasms that turn into buds :)
And then such wonderful "" of an unusual greenish color with purple shading began to appear from the buds!

In the photo: kobeya is preparing for flowering; kobei bud; young kobei flower changes color

Even if these greenish kobei flowers did not change color later, I would still love them like that! :) But young flowers dramatically changed, turning into exquisite purple bells!

Efforts were not in vain - my kobeya grew up and successfully bloomed. A real gift for me was the two formed fruit with seeds. They are so cute, with a famously twisted mustache!

In the photo: the formation of the kobei fetus; kobei fruit with green seeds

Of course, the seeds formed in the kobei did not have time to ripen in the conditions of my garden. But still, I got satisfaction from the fact that the long path of the plant "from seed to seed" was successfully passed by my kobe!

As a result of the successful cultivation of kobei, I made several conclusions, including the use of creepers in landscape design.
Considering that in late August and early September they are almost finishing their flowering, the kobeya has become not only a worthy temporary replacement for clematis, but, perhaps, the permanent hostess of my arch!

In the photo: kobeya blooms on the arch; adult kobei flower

Unfortunately, I don't have a suitable cool place to keep the kobei roots until the next gardening season...

Lyudmila Rezhnova (Dubna, Moscow region)

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Liana kobeya (lat. Cobaea)- a perennial climbing shrub of the Sinyukhov family, grown in culture as an annual. The kobeya plant got its name in honor of the Spaniard, the Jesuit naturalist monk Barnabas Cobo, who lived for many years in the homeland of kobeya - in Mexico and Peru. Under natural conditions, the kobeya flower grows in humid tropical and subtropical forests of the American continents. In culture, kobeya flowers have been used since 1787 for the most part for vertical gardening - hedges, arbors.

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Planting and caring for a kobe (in a nutshell)

• Landing: sowing pre-scarified seeds for seedlings in February or early March, planting seedlings in the ground at the end of May or early June.
• Bloom: from the end of July until the first frost.
• Lighting: bright sunlight or penumbra.
• The soil: fertile, well fertilized.
• Watering: regular, sufficient, in the heat - frequent, from moderate to plentiful.
• Top dressing: at the beginning of growth - weekly, fertilizers containing a significant amount of nitrogen, during the budding period, the plant will need phosphorus and potassium.
• Garter: it is not necessary to tie up the plant: the vine, with the help of antennae, climbs itself along a support, wall or fence.
• Reproduction: seeds and cuttings.
• Pests: aphids and spider mites.
• Diseases: root and gray rot.

Read more about growing kobei below.

Kobe flower - growing conditions

Because the kobea plant is different rapid growth, its root system is powerful and branched, with numerous thin fibrous roots. The stems of this climbing shrub reach six or more meters in length. Its leaves are alternate, complex-pinnate, consisting of three lobes. At the ends of the shoots, the leaves change into branched tendrils, with the help of which, clinging to a support, the plant rises to a considerable height.

How to grow clarkia from seeds - recommendations from flower growers

Large, bell-shaped with protruding stamens and pistil, kobei flowers, reaching 8 cm in diameter, single or in groups of 2-3 flowers, grow on long pedicels from the axils of the leaves. Blooming flowers have a greenish-yellow hue, and blossoming are painted purple or White color. The kobei fruit is a leathery box that opens along the side seams with large flat oval seeds.

Growing kobei from seeds

sowing kobei

If you do not know how to grow a kobe from seeds, read our recommendations carefully. Growing kobei flowers from seeds is complicated by the fact that large seeds of the plant are covered with a very dense shell, which makes germination very difficult, and before sowing kobei, you need to dissolve this crust to the state of mucus and remove it mechanically . To do this, we lay out the kobei seeds on the bottom of a wide container so that they do not touch each other, fill it with water and cover the vessel with a lid, preventing moisture from evaporating. As soon as the rind is limp, try to remove the part of it that comes off easily, and put the seeds back into the water. It will be possible to completely peel the seed from the peel in a few days. And this is just a description. preparatory phase sowing campaign.

The next step is: how to sow kobe for seedlings? We sow kobeya in February or early March, one seed in personal cups, in order to avoid in the future such a complex and often traumatic manipulation as the first picking of kobeya. The substrate for sowing is used universal, put a seed on it with the flat side down and sprinkle on top with a layer of the same substrate one and a half centimeters thick.

How much does a kobe grow? Everyone has it differently, but if you sowed the seeds peeled from the shell, then you can expect the first sprouts after two weeks from the date of sowing.

In the photo: Growing kobei from seeds

kobei seedling

Slightly grown seedlings with two true leaves are transplanted together with a clod of earth into three-liter pots so that the plant has the opportunity to develop a powerful root system in gentle home conditions and acquire strong shoots. When transplanting, install a plastic or metal ladder in the pot so that the kobeya can grow by clinging to it. At this stage, the cultivation of kobei involves the hardening of seedlings. For this, the kobe is placed on a balcony or loggia, preferably insulated or at least glazed, where the seedlings, getting used to the cool air, will expect to be transplanted into open ground. Usually three weeks of hardening is enough to prepare the kobei for transplanting to the garden plot.

landing kobei

When to plant a kobe

Seedlings are planted in open ground in May or early June, when return frosts pass and the temperature at night does not fall below +5 ºС. But you do not need to overexpose the plant in pots, otherwise it will grow strongly, and it will be much harder for you to transplant.

In the photo: Kobei flowering in the garden

How to plant a kobe

First, decide on the place where the kobe will grow. It is best to choose a sunny area with fertile soil for her, although the kobe grows well in partial shade. It is also important that the plant is protected from cold winds. Dig holes in advance at a distance of 0.5-1.0 m from each other, fill them with a loose mixture of peat, humus and soddy soil, lower a kobea along with an earthen clod on it, dig in and water.

Immediately install supports along which the plant will climb - a fence or an arch so that the kobe in the garden does not use neighboring trees and bushes as this.

If you're not sure the night frost won't return, protect the kobei planting with two layers of non-woven covering material - temporarily.

Kobe care

How to raise a kobe

Kobe care involves regular watering of the plant, especially plentiful in the dry season. However, try to do without fanaticism in this matter, otherwise excess moisture will provoke the development of root rot in the plant, especially if it grows in partial shade.

On the picture: large flower kobei

It is necessary to feed a kobe at the beginning of growth weekly with fertilizers containing a large amount of nitrogen, and when the plant begins to form buds, it will need phosphorus and potassium. Fertilizers begin from the first days of plant life.: as soon as the seedling has the first leaf, the kobe is fertilized with humate. Then alternate mineral supplements, for example, Kemiru, with organic - mullein infusion - until the beginning of flowering. In addition to moistening the soil and fertilizing, caring for a kobe in the garden requires loosening the soil and removing emerging weeds.

How to sow vervain - a proven way

Kobe breeding

In addition to the seed method of growing kobei, there is a more reliable vegetative way – cuttings. The cuttings are cut from the mother bushes that overwintered indoors - in the spring, when the active growth of young kobei shoots begins, some of them can be cut off and rooted in wet sand, and planted in open ground in late May or early June.

It should be noted that kobes grown from cuttings bloom faster than kobes from seeds, but their flowering is not as plentiful and spectacular.

In the photo: Blooming kobeya

Pests and diseases of kobei

Of the insect pests, mites and aphids can cause trouble for Kobe. You can destroy pests by spraying the plant with a solution of liquid potash green soap with Fitoverm. Liquid soap you can replace it with a flea shampoo - it does an excellent job with other harmful insects.

Kobeya after flowering

How and when to collect kobei seeds

Kobeya blooms from July until frost. In our latitudes, kobe is grown as an annual plant, therefore, in the fall it must be destroyed. Collect seeds for sowing next year you are unlikely to succeed - in our climate they do not ripen, so if you want to grow kobe in your garden next summer, you will have to buy seeds in a store. Even the germination rate of kobei seeds of well-known trading companies professionally prepared for sowing does not exceed 30%, what can you expect from unripe seeds collected from your garden with your own hands?

In the photo: Beautiful motley kobe

Kobeya in winter

You can try to keep the kobe growing in your garden until next year. To do this, you need to cut the shoots on the kobe in October, carefully dig out the bush and transplant it into a large flowerpot or box. Kobe should be kept in a dark, cool (not higher than 12 ºC) room - a cellar or basement, watering once every three to four weeks only so that the soil does not dry out. In late February-early March, the plant is moved closer to light and heat and watering is gradually increased. Kobe is returned to open ground after all frosts have passed.

Have you ever heard of the wonderful climbing plant- Kobe? It is a delightful perennial subshrub and is also practiced as an annual crop. Today we will talk about the features of landing this amazing plant in the open field, as well as reveal the secrets for you proper care behind him. This will allow you to grow kobei on your own with your own hands. You can be convinced of the charm and beauty of kobei by looking at the presented photo.

Varieties and varieties of plants

Kobeya is known for its rapid growth, development and strong root system. It is characterized by complex pinnate leaves, branched at the ends into antennae, and stems, the length of which sometimes reaches more than 6 m. In addition, kobeya has large beautiful flowers in the form of bells with protruding stamens. Their delicate white or purple color does not leave anyone indifferent.

Kobe climbing

There are 9 types of kobei in total. The most popular is climbing kobeya, which is also popularly called monastery bells. Its long shoots cling with their antennae to all existing barriers. The leaves of the plant are openwork, they are able to create an attractive green carpet. Its flowers reach 8 cm in diameter and have a divine aroma. In just a couple of years, a culture manages to secure a certain area for itself, and an annual can be planted annually in any place convenient for you.

landing kobei

Kobei, planting and caring for which will not seem difficult even for beginner gardeners, will decorate any courtyard with their presence, make it colorful, lively and attractive. Seedlings are usually planted in open ground in May-June, when the weather is already warm outside. It is better to choose for her an open, unshaded area with good, fertile soil. Cold gusty winds affect the plant badly.

Plant a kobe near a gazebo or hedge, the flower will create a wonderful living wall

For planting at a distance of 50-100 cm from each other, they dig holes, fill them with a mixture of humus, peat and soddy soil. Kobes are placed in them, added dropwise and watered a little.

Advice. Install supports in advance so that the plant can gradually climb up them and not spread to other plantings.

plant care

Nothing will decorate fences and decorative buildings like a magnificent kobe. Caring for it is based on regular moderate watering, timely loosening of the soil and, of course, the removal of harmful weeds.

Attention! In no case do not overdo it with watering the plant. Root rot can develop from excess moisture, and kobeya will quickly die.

For the first time after landing, kobei should be protected with two layers of non-woven insulation. If the tops of the plant freeze, it is better to cut them off, this will contribute to the further branching of the kobei. Kobeya begins to bloom from July to late autumn.

Kobe seeds are better to buy in a specialized store

Gather her seeds for further sowing very problematic, because in our climate zone they don't mature. Germination is only 30%, so it is better to purchase them in a specialized store. To save the plant until next year, in October, its shoots should be cut, the bush should be dug up and transplanted into a spacious box. The container is stored in a cool and dark room, occasionally watering the plant. After the end of frost, the kobe is planted in open ground.

Fertilizer and feeding kobei

Young plants should be fed with a nitrogen-containing fertilizer every week. You can start fertilizing from the first days of the life of the culture. With the advent of buds, the plant will need phosphorus and potash fertilizers. Kobe can also be fertilized with humate, and mineral supplements can be alternated with organic ones, for example, with a solution of mullein.

For active growth Kobe needs both mineral and organic fertilizers

Kobe breeding

Kobei seeds are sown from February to March, after soaking them in a special growth stimulator. Each seed is recommended to be sown in a separate cup. Top them with a thin layer of soil. The first shoots appear in 2-3 weeks. You can see this process in the next photo.

kobei sprouts

Advice. To get the first shoots as early as possible, just germinate the seeds before pecking.

Around April, the first leaves will begin to appear. Then the seedlings should be well watered, carefully removed and dived into separate containers. This will ensure the normal development of the rhizome for the plant.

Before planting in open ground, seedlings need a certain hardening. For example, they can be periodically taken out into the street, gradually increasing the time. In addition, reproduction can be carried out by cuttings, planting them first in wet sand. Strengthened seedlings are transplanted into open ground with the advent of heat.

Kobei seedlings prepared for planting on permanent place

Dangerous pests and diseases

The danger for kobei is mites and aphids. In the fight against them, treatment with a solution of potassium green soap or flea shampoo with fitoverm is used. bad drainage system can cause horse rot.

Kobeya: combination with other plants

Kobeya, both perennial and annual, will become a bright and unique decoration of any site, especially in a competent combination with other plants. Petunia, verbena, lobelia are perfect for her. If you creatively approach this issue and connect all your imagination, you can get a fantastic result.

Kobeya - decoration of the arch

Kobeya in landscape design

The beauty of kobei did not disregard the modern landscape design. If it is placed on the south side of the house, near the gazebo, then, with the help of special trellises, you can recreate a real green scene. Planted near a hedge, the kobeya will quickly braid it and create a beautiful original wall or arch. It will look good and planted in pots. With such a vine, you can quite effectively divide the yard into conditional zones, decorate flower beds and enliven the exterior. You can see excellent use of kobei in illustrative photos.

Growing kobei: video

Types of kobei: photo

Kobeya climbing - a liana with flowers of extraordinary beauty. Actually, she is perennial plant, but, like many guests from southern countries (the birthplace of kobei is the South American tropics), we grow as an annual.

At home, kobe has nine species. We have plants with white and purple flowers. They have shoots from four to six meters long, beautiful pinnate leaves. With the help of tenacious antennae, the kobe easily climbs from one support to another. And her flowers are such that, having seen them once, it is impossible to forget. Campanulas, or rather bells, up to 8 centimeters in diameter with prominent stamens. They can be purple in various shades. At first, the flowers are light, greenish, then they become darker and brighter. The bush during flowering is similar to Christmas tree decorated with colorful bells. There is also a white kobe.

Growing from seed at home

Kobeya propagates by seeds that do not ripen in our conditions. So you have to buy them every year. Fortunately, there are no problems with the purchase. Practically in all firms dealing with flower seeds, kobeya is available for sale. Growing from seeds is a rather difficult process. Their germination rate is quite low. Reviews of gardeners say that even from germinated seeds, only a third sprouts. They note the company "Russian Garden", whose results are much better. They sprout almost all sown kobeya.

Growing from seeds begins very early, in winter. Sow from February to mid-March. Although some gardeners do it in mid-March. And they say that in July they already admire the flowers that cover the climbing kobe. Growing from seeds can occur in two ways:

• When sowing dry kobei seeds, they are placed one at a time in a cup. Having laid the seed with the flat side on the surface of the soil, sprinkle it with earth with a layer of 1.5-2 cm and compact the soil tightly. This will help shed the seed coat. She often breaks off the cotyledon leaves, because of which the violet kobe may die. Growing from seed gives top scores if soaked in a growth stimulant for several hours before sowing. It can be "Epin" or aloe juice.
• Kobe seeds are soaked in the same way as the seed of all other plants. Features of growing kobei from seeds are that they have an unusual size and shape. The seeds are large, flat and hairy. Their surface is very durable. Because of this, they cannot germinate in any way. When soaked, the seeds are covered with a slippery shell, which is formed from the swelling of the shaggy crust. Gardeners advise removing it, and this can not be done immediately, as it separates for several days. They say that after this, kobeya sprouts faster. Growing from seeds at home may include one more step. Seeds that did not hatch after a day of soaking are advised to pierce with a needle and put them back into the water for a day.

The hatched seeds are sown in the manner described above. After two or three weeks, or even 25 days, shoots appear. So long sprouts kobeya. Growing from seeds (photo attached) in this case gave a result.

Gardeners offer an interesting way. It turns out that kobe can be planted in peat pots summer, in July. Until winter, they grow a little, and then are stored in the cellar. In March, they are taken out into the sun and watered. Waiting for the threat to pass spring frosts, hardened and planted in a permanent place. Plants bloom much faster than those sown in spring. In the cellar, they do not outgrow. But you need to keep an eye on them all the time. After all, there is often high humidity, which can lead to the death of plants. No one says that with this method of storage they died from the cold.

Dive

After the first real leaf has appeared at the sprout, they dive into a separate bowl, larger in size, with a volume of three liters, so that a kobe can grow in it for a long time. Growing from seeds (photo) in such a pot will allow the plant to form a strong root.

First the sprout old crockery water well, then take it out together with a clod of earth, trying not to disturb its integrity, and sprinkle with new soil. Watering again. Make sure the plant has enough light.

At the end of summer or even in September, kobeya blooms. Growing from seeds starts earlier for this very reason. If seedlings appeared in mid-February, and it can be planted in open ground at the end of May, then all this time it will be indoors and grow. If you dive into a small bowl, then soon it will become small and you will need to transship it into a deeper pot so that the leaves do not turn yellow. You also need to take into account that the kobeya is a vine, and she needs a support on which she will twist. Some plants have time to grow before landing in the ground to a height of up to two meters. It’s also good if it doesn’t need to be transported anywhere, and this happens.

Kobe can be propagated by cuttings. Plants obtained in this way begin to bloom faster. But the bush itself is stronger if it has grown from a seed. The cuttings are planted in the sand, moistened and made from a film, in which constant humidity is maintained. But for this you need to have a ready-made plant on hand, from which cuttings can be taken. Since there are not so many such trees around, it is quite difficult to do this. As you can see, the only way available to everyone that kobeya reproduces is growing from seeds. When to plant it in open ground?

Temperature regime

Kobeya is not afraid of cold and low positive temperatures. mature plant can withstand frosts up to 5 degrees. And the young is dangerous and zero. It is planted in the ground at a stable temperature at night not lower than 4 degrees. It's around the end of May. Before that, you need to harden the seedlings by putting them on a balcony or a protected place in the yard.

Place to land

Kobeya is planted in fertile land, previously limed. The site should be well lit and protected from cold winds. It can grow in partial shade, but will not bloom in the shade.

Kobe needs for normal growth a large number of earth. Therefore, it is almost impossible to bring it in a pot of any size to a state of flowering. So, you should not grow a kobe on the balcony.

Planting in a permanent place

Plant plants at a distance of at least half a meter. Kobeya tolerates transplant well. She quickly regains strength and begins to grow. Sometimes during transportation, its stems are in a twisted state for a long time. During this time, they can wrap up and intertwine with each other. Then it is very easy to damage them when installing on a support.

Topping

Kobeya is a very tall liana. If you do not adjust its length, it will climb up and somewhere there weave into a ball. Can climb up to 9 meters! Therefore, usually its top is pinched after transplantation. But you do not need to do this earlier, so as not to get a wide and low plant. If you plan to send the kobe to a long support, then you should not pinch it.

Care

The area where the kobe grows is constantly:

• watered;
• fly;
• loosen;
• feed.

supports

She needs support in the form of a strong mesh or a specially made arch, which are now widespread.

Watering

Kobe will not bloom if the soil around it is dry. Does not like extreme heat when its root system overheats. In this case, without abundant watering, she drops the flowers, and all the long-awaited beauty disappears.

Fertilizer

Kobe can be fed complex mineral fertilizer containing a balanced amount of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. If you give preference to nitrogen, then the plant will intensively produce leaves, and flowers may not appear.

But if all the conditions for care are met, then in July or August (depending on the region and weather) it is covered with large charming bells that will give you joy until frost.

Storage

Since kobeya is a perennial plant, you can keep it indoors until next summer. To do this, before the onset of frost, cut and dig the plant. Immerse it in a wide dish and install it in a bright room, the temperature in which is about 12 degrees. It is necessary to ensure that the root system does not dry out completely, but watering is very rare. In February, set the pot in the light in a warm place and begin to water. In this case, it will begin to bloom much earlier and more abundantly.

Moreover, gardeners offer to store kobei bushes with a clod of earth right in the cellar, like seedlings. They claim that plants successfully endure such wintering.

Usage

They are used for landscaping arches, arbors, balconies (with landing at the bottom).

If she is not followed, she easily climbs trees or nearby poles and decorates them too.

So, you will have to tinker with the plant a lot. But what a pleasure you will get when the kobe finally blooms. Growing from seeds is a troublesome process. But, as you know, what is difficult for us is valued the most. Nevertheless, many gardeners, having suffered with a kobe for six months before planting, and even a couple of months before flowering, are in no hurry to buy its seeds next year.

Another of gardeners' favorite plants is climbing kobea, which is somewhat labor intensive to grow from seeds. But the time and effort invested is compensated by the gorgeous view and abundant flowering. Look!

Brief botanical note

Liana Kobeya (translated from Latin Cobaea) is a climbing shrub. The plant belongs to the cyanide family. Despite being a perennial, kobe is grown as an annual. The liana is named after Barnabas Cobo, a Spanish Jesuit monk-naturalist, for a long time who lived in Peru and Mexico - the birthplace of kobei.

If we talk about natural growing conditions, then the plant prefers the humid subtropics and tropics of America. Since 1787, the liana began to be used as ornamental plant for decorating hedges or gardening arbors.

Ground Requirements

Growing kobei requires compliance with a number of rules. Only with their scrupulous implementation can seedlings be achieved and suitable seedlings obtained. Let's talk about the ground first. For good development it is necessary to provide the plant with soft, moderately moist and loose soil. Unfortunately, in the latitudes of Russia natural conditions differ, so you have to find a way out of the situation by regularly loosening, moistening and nourishing the earth.

Seed preparation

Just sowing the seeds will not succeed - they simply will not sprout. The fact is that the seeds are covered with a hard shell. It is necessary to carry out preliminary training: remove it mechanically or simply dissolve to a mucus-like state.

The first step is scarification. To do this, the seed coat is damaged by rubbing it, for example, sandpaper. After the seeds are distributed over a damp cloth so that they do not touch each other, wrap and place in plastic bag, thereby creating a "greenhouse".

If you have a container that looks like a Petri dish, you can use that as well. A simpler option is the usual Plastic container with lid.

The condition of the seeds is checked daily. If mucus appears on the surface, then it is removed with a cloth, after wetting it in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The procedure for removing mucus is carried out in several stages. The appearance of mold indicates an excessively low temperature in the container, so it needs to be moved to a warmer place. As a rule, germination lasts 2 weeks, but in some cases this period is extended up to three weeks.

Keep a close eye on the seeds. As soon as they hatch, the seeds are immediately sown. If you are late, then the seed box will simply remain on the plant and then have to be removed manually, which is fraught with damage to the plant itself.

You can also pre-soak the seeds in special substances - germination accelerators:

1. Epin Extra. Soak for 4 hours, preparing a solution of 4 drops of the substance per 0.1 l of water.
2. A mixture of honey and aloe juice in equal parts. Soaking time 1 hour.
3. Zircon. Soaking time is also 4 hours. The solution is prepared from 5 drops dissolved in 0.1 l of water.

Planting seeds

In order for the future kobeya to be resistant to external influences, cultivation from seeds should begin as early as the end of February. To do this, prepare the substrate, pour it into boxes. Hollows are made in the ground 1.5 cm deep, the seeds are distributed in them with the flat side down, sprinkled with earth and lightly tamped.

Landing can be planted in peat tablets or in individual paper cups, in which it will be possible to immediately plant the young in bulk in the ground.

The soil with seeds is watered, covered with glass or film and sent to a warm place, preferably under direct sunlight.

Do not forget to ventilate the greenhouse daily and remove condensate.

winter sowing

Often gardeners to obtain early flowering liana seeds are planted immediately in the ground in July, be sure to spend the entire necessary training. At the end of August, the young that have appeared are dug up, planted in an individual "house" and sent to spend the winter in a cool room where the temperature does not drop below zero. The ideal temperature for wintering is 8-10 degrees. If it is lower, then the plants additionally cover.

Kobei carry out moderately and only when the earth is completely dry. If the plants are strongly branched in the summer, then they are pruned. At the end of May next year, it will be possible to plant vines in open ground.

At proper cultivation and proper care, the length of the vine can reach 11 meters, and flowering lasts until autumn.

seedling care

During germination, watering should be moderate. You can water the growth stimulator. When shoots appear, the box is shaded from direct sun rays. After a while, when the sprouts acquire a pair of leaves, they can already be transplanted.
To do this, the kobe is pulled out along with an earthen clod and transferred to a pot 2-3 times larger than the previous one. This will avoid another transplant and the vine will develop and grow stronger without additional stress.

Be sure to keep an eye on the volume of the container. In a cramped pot, the liana turns yellow.

After transshipment, it is necessary to finally establish a support for each sprout. As for top dressing, it should not be carried out, since the vine will not grow and develop, but will become tangled, which will complicate it. further transplant. As soon as the vine reaches a little more than 20 cm in height, it will need to be pinned down so that the plant begins to bush.

Landing in open ground

Seedlings can be transplanted only when the temperature at night does not fall below 4ºС. As a rule, this corresponds to the second half of May - the beginning of June. Please note that the young are extremely sensitive to cold, so the grown vine should be hardened before planting. To do this, in the last two weeks before transplanting, they take it out to the loggia, veranda, or in. If the temperature continues to fall below zero at night, the plants need to be covered with a film.

Disembarkation. Option 1

In a sunny place, devoid of wind, dig a hole at least 40 cm deep. Having mixed peat, humus and soddy soil in equal parts, they fill the hole.

The distance between copies must be at least a meter.

After watering the seedlings, sprinkle with earth, lightly tamp and establish a support.

If the seedlings did not sprout at the same time and there are weak plants, they are also planted in the garden, but at the same time they are fertilized with organic matter.

When the night temperature drops, the sprouts cover plastic bottles or film. The next 2 weeks are adaptive for plants.

Disembarkation. Option 2

Seedlings can also be planted in early May. As a rule, this emergency landing is carried out with heavily overgrown vines. The algorithm is identical to the previous version. But after landing, all the loops are carefully distributed on the ground and carefully covered with a dense film. All corners are securely fixed so that the film does not “run away”.

With this method, daily ventilation is important. Liana flowering will come 2 weeks earlier.

Upon the onset of heat, the "greenhouse" is removed, the lashes are lifted and attached to the installed supports. When you follow all the tips, you will receive beautiful plant with abundant and long flowering.

Growing kobei from seeds - video