How to breed bitumen with diesel fuel. How to cook bitumen for pouring the roof of the garage and what proportions are needed? Features of using bituminous waterproofing

The base of the house is exposed to constant destructive effects from various environmental factors. Particularly active is the water that is contained in the soil and penetrates into it after precipitation. During the construction of the foundation, it is necessary to provide additional protection against this influence. The most commonly used bituminous mastic.

Why is coating waterproofing with bitumen necessary?

In its classical form, bituminous mastic is a mixture of several components that securely and tightly cement cracks in the base surface and prevent moisture from penetrating into the foundation structure.

Mastic quickly hardens due to the use of various solvents and other elements that ensure the effectiveness of the solution. With the help of mastic it is possible to create highly effective seamless surfaces. This is true for the roof and for the walls, and definitely for the foundation.

Before using the mastic, it is important to know how and with what to dissolve the resin to paint the foundation. The effectiveness of the subsequent operation of the protective layer depends on the correct combination of elements.

How to dilute bituminous mastic

To know exactly how to dilute the resin for painting the foundation, you need to understand what indicators you want to get. The proportions in which the constituent components in the mastic are combined determines not only the density, but also the performance characteristics of the solution. Among the substances used to dissolve the mastic, the following are used:

• Gasoline (kerosene).
• White Spirit.
• Gasoline-galosh (Gasoline-solvent for the rubber industry).

Correctly choosing the substance and amount of material that needs to be diluted with bitumen for the foundation means preparing the optimal material for processing the foundation.

What additives are used to dilute the mastic

It is possible to add various types of fillers to the created solution. Therefore, the builder should decide what parameters he wants to get in the end.

Now the most popular types of mastic are the following:

• bituminous rubber mastic,
• polyurethane,
• latex,
• oil, rubber.

If we take bitumen-rubber mastic, then at the heart of its composition are directly bitumen and polymer.

Polyurethane and rubber form in the solution additional plasticity of the solution, in which the formed film is not only strong, but can be stretched by about 20 times.

The use of rubber for the preparation of cold mix allows you to create a material that does not require preparation before use. The mastic is applied evenly and is homogeneous and durable.

The addition of oil components helps to prevent hardening of the material. Such compounds are necessary for waterproofing pipes and which will be placed underground.

Cooking features

The process of making bituminous mastic is not difficult, you just need to choose the right ingredients and follow the basic cooking rules.

The following elements are required to complete the work:

1. pieces of bitumen, cleaned of contaminants;
2. specially selected fillers,
3. various plasticizers.

For example, to create waterproofing, you need to have about 10 kilograms of mastic. This will require approximately 8 kg of bitumen, 1 kg of filler and 500 grams of plasticizer.

For mastic cooking, durable boilers with a wall thickness of 3 mm or more are selected. There should also be a lid. Thanks to the heating of the walls, the bitumen heats up evenly.

The boiler must be loaded no more than 70% - otherwise the mastic may begin to splash out. For cooking, the following rules must be strictly observed:

1. The cauldron is not placed above the fire, but is set to the side.
2. The temperature should be at the level of 190 degrees, which does not lead to the decomposition of the material.
3. Temperature fluctuations are unacceptable, which can lead to the formation of an inhomogeneous mastic mass.
4. For the fastest preparation of the mixture, it is necessary to divide the bitumen into small pieces.
5. Cooking mastic should be slow and even.
6. Filler and additives should also be crushed.
7. The addition of components is carried out gradually.
8. The solution is regularly stirred and the resulting foam is periodically removed.
9. After the disappearance of the foam, fillers can be added.
10. After adding the resulting solution is thoroughly stirred - and the bituminous mastic is ready for use!

Now, after you have learned how to dilute the bituminous mastic for the foundation and how to prepare it, you should know how to properly apply it to the surface.

How to apply bituminous mastic

After preparing the mastic, it should be properly applied to the surface. For this, 2 methods are used:

1. Application by hand.
2. Mechanized method of application with the use of special tools.

The manual method of work is optimal when performing a small amount of work. For a large area of ​​work, manual technology is impractical, so mechanisms are used. Also, tools are used to work with hard-to-reach places.

Before application, the surface to be treated should be prepared. The surface is cleaned and dried thoroughly. After that, a thin layer of primer is applied, which ensures interaction with the mastic.

After the mixture is ready and warm enough, you can proceed directly to the application. For this, an ordinary roller or brush is used - the choice of a specific tool depends on the nature of the surface, volume and complexity of the configuration of the foundation, wall or roof. Sometimes a wide spatula is used for application.

The layers of mastic are applied with an overlap, which should be approximately 10 centimeters. This prevents the formation of empty parts, which will be exposed to moisture penetration.

The application of the next layer of mastic begins after the previous one has completely hardened.

The use of bituminous mastic for waterproofing the base is an important factor in protecting the structure and preventing the formation of microcracks and damage.

Since bitumen surrounds the inhabitant of the urban jungle from all sides, very often, especially in the hot season, the question arises of how to remove bitumen from the surface of a car, shoes, clothes, flooring, etc. After all, the places where this black resinous material hits can be very different.

Almost every owner of a car that differs in color from black regretfully noticed on the wings, arcs of arches (and even higher) black tar traces from the road surface. The owners of white model sandals found outrageously black stains on the heels and sides of the shoes after walking on the pavement heated to the boiling point. That is, you have to remove it from different surfaces.

Of course, in order to get less dirty, you can not walk on the asphalt in the heat, but go for this period to where there is almost none. For example, to a village or to the sea or somewhere else, under palm trees. But if you drive to your destination on a hot highway in your car, you still need to remove bituminous stains from parts of his body. Moreover, it is better to do this until the resin "becomes".

The principle of choosing a means for removing bituminous stains

Actually, here the question is solved quite simply. It is good to purchase a tar stain remover, such formulations in aerosol cans or regular bottles are sold in automotive chemistry departments. You can use simpler liquids, like white spirit or gasoline. The issue of bitumen solubility has already been considered above.

Do not peel off the hardened resin layer mechanically. So you can damage the top layer of color, disrupt its polishing. It may be necessary to apply a remover or thinner several times to remove bituminous stains. After the result is achieved without fanaticism, the place must be washed with car shampoo, wiped and lightly polished.

In general, there are many solutions on how to remove bituminous stains. You just need to remember that it is a natural solvent for bitumen, and take into account what basis the annoying stain fell on. So, an attempt to wash off a resin stain from a polyester fabric with acetone will lead to hopeless damage to the entire product. In any case, if you are going to use the cleaning composition for the first time, it is better to try it on hidden areas of clothing.

How to wash bitumen on work clothes, it is not so difficult to choose, due to the naturalness of the fibers. Washers or benzene solvents can be used, as in the case of a car, the amount and gradual removal of the resin depends on the thickness of the applied layer. It is also necessary to take into account the penetration of resin microparticles into the structure of fabric fibers.

Textiles, carpets and floor coverings - how to remove bitumen stains correctly?

After removing the resinous crust from the fabric, a stain remains, how to remove bitumen from clothes in this case is not difficult to decide, it will take the final removal of the darkened fibers in the places of the former stain. To do this, wash the fabric with detergents. Experts say that powders with active oxygen in granules work well (for example, Vanish).

The methods are similar in determining how to remove bitumen from thinner things. After all, not only damage to the integrity of the fabric can occur, spots and stains often appear, which also mercilessly spoil your favorite piece of clothing. It is important to use refined gasolines with a low octane rating (Zippo), or special solvents called bituminous.

Of course, clothes should be washed with powders, at the water temperature indicated by the fabric manufacturer, see this information on the tags. In all cases of work with stains on clothes, it is necessary to wash without waiting for the area treated with the composition to dry.

If there are stains on the surface of the paths or floor carpets and rugs, in search of something to clean from them, ordinary aerosol packaging can help. WD40. This composition based on mineral oil, white spirit, carbon dioxide, inert additives (as you can see, the composition almost repeats the list of natural bitumen solvents) manages to cope with pollution quite decently. After the place is washed with cleaning products for carpets.

How remove bitumen from the floor, if it was not at the right time under the foot of the carpet, it is determined by the floor covering. Solvents that, together with pollution, can remove the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200blinoleum or varnish from the board, do not need to be used, even in small quantities. Here turpentine, kerosene, gasoline, WD, etc. are selected. Immediately after removing the dirt, the place must be washed with a neutral powder or soap.

Bituminous mastic is a mixture of various substances that glue, cement or fill cracks and holes well, making them completely impervious to water. This putty quickly hardens due to the evaporation of the solvent in its composition, or due to chemicals mixed in the process of its preparation for work.

More often, this material is used to create seamless coatings during work related to the repair and installation of roofs. Mastic is relevant for paving, waterproofing or vapor barrier of floors in bathrooms, showers or rooms with pools.

Mastic indoors

In order for the mastic not to lose its properties, or vice versa, the useful capabilities of the mixture have improved, it should be properly diluted.

Depending on the type of coating, the proportions change, as does the density of the mastic, otherwise it will not stay on the surface until it dries completely if applied to the ceiling.

Depending on the type of mastic used, the substances that dissolve / dilute it also change.

These substances include:

• gasoline or kerosene;
• White Spirit;
• Gasoline galosh.

The proportions correspond to the volume of mastic used, their violation leads to slow drying or to increased fluidity of the resulting solution. And as a result - to reduce adhesion or useful properties of the applied solution. It will not become a reliable protection, passing moisture.

How to properly dilute and prepare the solution

Another important point that affects how the mastic should be diluted is the method of application to the surface. This:

• Manual application method;
• Mechanized method by means of special devices.

The first method is relevant if the volume and scope of work are small, and the second is better to use when a large area has to be processed.

The second method is also more convenient if hard-to-reach places are treated with mastic.

A mandatory procedure is the preparation of the surface where the bituminous mastic will be applied. If the surface peels off, it is cleaned, then dried, a primer layer is applied to interact with the mastic. Such a primer is sold under the name of a bituminous primer, which is purchased or prepared with one's own hands.

For its preparation, several pieces of pure bitumen are taken, diluted with gasoline or used engine oil.

To do this, gasoline / oil is first poured into a container, heated, and then crushed bitumen is added.

The mixture is heated to a temperature of 190-200 degrees, while it is constantly stirred. Take a quality container that can withstand a similar temperature. The volume of the container is determined by the volume of the mixture that is to be used. If the area is small, a bucket is enough, but if it is several squares, then the capacity should be appropriate, or the cooking process will have to be carried out several times.

Application nuances

The prepared mixture is applied with a brush or roller, depending on the complexity and volume of work. In more rare cases, for application, the mastic is scooped up with a wide spatula.

Work order:

• The material is applied overlapping so that the layers overlap each other by 5-10 cm.

• A new layer is applied after the previous one has cooled slightly.
• For rooms where there is a swimming pool, or for roofing, 2-4 layers of such insulation are used, which are then reinforced with fiberglass and additionally insulated.

Consumption of mastic and its effect on cooking

The consumption of mastic, which uses crumb rubber or rubber, depends on how many layers are planned to be applied. The consumption is also affected by the type of work, the surface on which the mastic will be applied, and the thickness of each layer.

If bituminous mastic is used as the main insulation layer on the roof, then the thickness of this layer is 10 mm, and the consumption is 16 kg per 1 sq. meter. In this case, 3-4 layers are used for the roof.

If it is necessary to process and protect ordinary water and other pipes from corrosion, moisture or other negative environmental influences, then use bituminous mastic applied in 2 layers. For dilution in this case, oil is used.

To dilute the mastic, not only gasoline / oil is used, but also turpentine. Any organic solvent will do. Do not use ordinary acetone or its types. Some dilute mastic with diesel fuel, but in this case the composition is heterogeneous, plus the cooking process is delayed. But in this case, it is guaranteed that the resulting solution will qualitatively seal all the pores and roughness, since the best adhesion and insulation is achieved in the liquid state. Mastic diluted with diesel fuel dries faster, as diesel fuel evaporates quickly.

Consider that diesel fuel is harmful to the paintwork, it will subsequently peel off. If it is planned to use further coloring, diesel fuel is not used.

There are several subtleties in the cooking process using gasoline, diesel fuel. The fact is that small lumps appear in the mixture from them. But if the type of work allows such a small defect, then it's okay. If you plan to use bituminous mastic for application to the car body, then it is better to prefer white spirit.

Correct proportions and cooking rules

As for the rationing of proportions, which the builder should be guided by when preparing the mixture, they are different.

It is taken into account that the boiler used for cooking the composition is not loaded with more than 70 percent, otherwise the mixture will splash out during the cooking process and it is inconvenient to interfere with it.

It is not worth exceeding the cooking temperature, otherwise the bitumen will decompose. It is not recommended to allow large temperature drops, otherwise the mixture will turn out to be heterogeneous in composition.

To understand that overheating is strong, just look into the boiler - the appearance of characteristic yellow or green bubbles will indicate this.

First, gasoline or another liquid is added to the boiler, which is used to dilute the bitumen mixture, bitumen is placed in small portions, then the mixture is thoroughly mixed until completely dissolved.

Builders in the preparation of the mixture are guided by their own experience. They determine the readiness of the mixture by its density. Strong dilution leads to the fact that the mastic will become a primer, and this is not welcomed by customers, since the consumption of materials for the primer is higher than for the mastic. The problem will be exacerbated if the expense and the need to use mastic were specified in advance.

Homogeneity is considered the main criterion for the prepared solution.

For storage, bituminous mastic is poured without filler into ordinary plastic bottles, closed. So it is stored indefinitely. If necessary, it is squeezed out of the bottle.

In contact with

When restoring a roof or basement insulation, the question often arises: how to dilute the bitumen? Roofing on new buildings is rarely poured on them, since now there are many more attractive options for insulating and covering it. But over the decades of their existence, such a layer of roofing material has accumulated on old houses that, apart from bitumen, there are practically no restoration options left (after all, sometimes it is not even possible to peel off multiple layers).

The dismantling of ruberoid "pies" is so laborious that people try to push it as far into the future as possible, especially if the building is not residential - a garage, a barn, a summer kitchen, an extension. And for coating waterproofing of the foundation, bitumen still remains one of the most popular materials - cheap, fairly reliable, available for independent use, even if the work is associated with hard physical labor and some danger in carrying out. True, if the goal is to get the most reliable foundation waterproofing possible, it is better to glue a waterproofing barrier or the same roofing material over the bitumen. Alone, the bituminous coating cracks quite quickly and begins to let moisture through.

How to dilute bitumen in the conditions of private construction or repair? As you can see, this issue is still relevant both in the construction of foundation protection and in the repair of old roofs. Therefore, it is worth taking a closer look here, which we tried to do in this article.

• solid bitumen;
• liquefied bitumen;
• bitumen-rubber mastics;
• bitumen-polymer mastics.

The primer is made as follows:

• The bitumen breaks into small pieces. It is advisable to carry out this operation in the shade - when heated in the sun, it becomes sluggish and reluctantly splits.
• The fragments are immersed in diesel fuel or waste oil. By volume - so that the solvent covers the pieces completely, but does not form a large layer above it.
• When the liquid takes on the color of bitumen, it is ready for use as a primer.

First, it freezes too quickly.

Secondly, it does not fill the pores too tightly - it is too viscous and dense.

Thirdly, very soon the layer begins to crack. Therefore, when working with bitumen, the following algorithm is usually observed:

• Bitumen, broken into pieces, is melted in a metal barrel over a quiet fire. Moreover, the fire should be as slow as possible: during rapid burning in some places, the material already begins to coke from overheating, while in others it still remains solid.
• After melting, it is left on fire until foam stops appearing, that is, dehydration stops.
• A filler is poured into the container, for which loose asbestos is the best choice, but it is quite difficult to find it. So cement, chalk, gypsum (including alabaster), talc, ground clay, and so on are usually taken. Pursued goal: prevention of the formation of pores by the coating.
• When the filler is kneaded, a solvent is added - it will prevent the bitumen from solidifying too quickly.
  The approximate ratio of components is as follows: half of the volume is bitumen, 30% is diesel fuel, the rest is fillers.

It remains to add a couple of clarifications. First, do not forget that bitumen is a combustible material and can flare up if overheated or heated too intensely. It is useless to extinguish it with water; you need to keep a tin cover on hand to stop the access of oxygen. You need to be especially careful after adding diesel fuel: in its pure form, bitumen ignites at 230 degrees, with a solvent, the flash point is significantly reduced.

Second: many people suggest using mining, gasoline or kerosene as a solvent.

If it is quite possible to agree with the first option, then the last 2 are no good: the substances are very volatile and combustible. Most of it will evaporate before it fulfills the task of a solvent, the rest will increase flammability at times.

• low octane gasoline. On the one hand, a cheaper and more affordable solvent, but the fire hazard is high, as is volatility. The presence of open sources of fire (in particular, smoking) is unacceptable, and there is a risk of inhaling vapors to the point of poisoning;
  white spirit is more expensive, but much safer.
• The solvent must be added little by little, constantly stirring it. Remember that it is lighter than bitumen and will collect on the surface. If accidentally poured, you can wait for the bundle and just drain the excess

Bituminous mastics

• gasoline - works great, but the mentioned shortcomings do not go away;
• kerosene. It is desirable - aviation, with which problems may arise. The household one is not clean enough and can degrade the quality of the insulation. In addition, he, like the previous position, is combustible and volatile;
• White Spirit. The only downside is the cost. Despite its relative cheapness, it is needed in large volume, so it will cost a pretty penny;
• turpentine: liquefies the mastic well, inexpensive, less volatile and combustible than gasoline and kerosene, but the smell is very characteristic;
• nefras, he is gasoline - "galosh";
• acetone, solvent, 646. The most suitable solvent is recommended for a specific type of mastic by its manufacturer. So before deciding how to dilute bitumen or mastic from it, read the manufacturer's recommendations.

Mastic is a universal waterproofing material widely used during construction work. This material is a remelted product of bitumen, devoid of such disadvantages of bitumen as brittleness in frost and excessive fluidity in extreme heat. The mastic has a sufficiently viscous consistency, due to which it can be applied to vertical surfaces in a fairly thin layer. Over time, this layer does not float.

DIY mastic

To make your own mastic, you will need:

• pieces of pure bitumen,
• fillers,
• plasticizers.

Let's say you want to get 10 kilograms of the finished mixture. Then take 8.5 kg of pure bitumen, 1 kg of filler (forest moss or sawdust, peat, mineral wool, rubber crumb, asbestos), 0.5 kg of plasticizer (waste oil). Mastic is best cooked in special boilers equipped with thick (at least 3 mm) walls and a lid. Such walls will allow you to evenly distribute heat so that the bitumen does not burn.

Cooking rules

• The boiler can be loaded no more than 70%. Otherwise, the mastic may spill out.
• The boiler must not be installed directly on the fire, but away from it on a stand.
• It is best to keep the cooking temperature within 190C. At higher temperatures, bitumen may decompose.
• Try to avoid temperature fluctuations - in the end you will get a mastic that is homogeneous in composition. How do you know if the temperature is too high? Very simple. The first sign of overheating is the appearance of yellow-green bubbles.

Cooking process

1. Before starting cooking, crush large pieces of bitumen into smaller ones, clean them from dirt and sand.
2. The whole bitumen melting process should proceed very slowly, for about three hours.
3. The filler must be crushed, dried and heated.
4. Fillers and plasticizers should be introduced gradually.
5. Stir the mixture regularly (using a shovel), remove the foam from it.
6. After the foam has fallen off and the surface of the mixture is completely smooth, the plasticizer can be added.
7. Then everything is mixed well again.
8. Everything - the mastic is ready.

Best before date

It is advisable to cook the mastic immediately before its use. It cannot be stored longer than 24 hours. During use, the mastic must be constantly hot (about 120 ° C).

DIY primer

It is not advisable to apply mastic on bare surfaces. Surfaces must be endowed with good adhesion in advance, for which they are cleaned of debris and primed. Priming will ensure a high level of strength of the applied layer of mastic.

The composition of the primer is simple: bitumen solution plus gasoline in a ratio of one to three.

Cooking process

1. In order to prepare a primer, it is necessary to place hot (about 70 ° C) bitumen in gasoline.
2. Bitumen is placed in small portions and mixed until completely dissolved.
3. To avoid the presence of solid inclusions, the primer can be filtered through a fine metal mesh.

Application

The primer should be applied in two coats (or three coats). Wait 10-15 minutes before applying subsequent layers. Then the surfaces are covered with mastic.