How to properly prepare beds for carrots in the spring. Proper preparation of a bed for carrots in spring What to add to a garden bed

It’s the very beginning of autumn, and the entire crop hasn’t even been harvested from the plot yet. But you may not believe that in order to ensure next season’s harvest, it’s time to start preparing the vacated soil for future beds. And this is not a joke at all: this soil needs to be prepared not anyhow, but correctly, so as not to be disappointed in next year’s harvest. How to prepare beds, how to properly dig and apply fertilizers for the most common vegetable crops already now, we will tell you today.

Autumn preparation of beds in the vegetable garden. © Charles Dowding

It is clear that the formation of above-ground mass, the formation of crops that we harvest, consume or store, leads to the removal of a variety of elements from the soil. First of all, it is the well-known nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. So, immediately after harvesting and when preparing the bed for the new season, it is advisable to compensate for the deficiency of these elements in the soil, although it is not visible to the naked eye.

The autumn period is almost an ideal period for applying various types of fertilizers, which winter time“will reach” the soil, and the plants sown or planted in the beds we have made will begin to consume them in an accessible form, and not wait until they turn into such, wasting precious time on their development and forcing us to wait longer for the harvest.

For example, organic matter and various minerals: in fact, any vegetable crops perceive and react to them purely positively. However, in order to root system perceived this or that element, it must already be in an accessible, dissolved form, and this takes time. Winter is just such a time.

Of course, when choosing fertilizers, you need to take into account whole line factors - this is the biology of the crop, which will grow in this place in the future, and the type of soil (heavy, sandy soil, black soil, and so on) and even weather conditions at a given time, which determine, among other things, the condition of the soil.

So, enough reasoning, let’s move on directly to the rules for preparing beds in autumn period for the next season.

Why prepare the beds in advance?

This question is often asked: after all, there is spring, when you can have time to prepare the beds, sow seeds, and plant seedlings. Yes, absolutely true, but, firstly, not all fertilizers will have time to transform into a form accessible to plants, as we said above, and secondly, spring is such a fleeting period that in fact you may simply not have time to do everything, how necessary. Remember the Russian proverb in the words of a peasant peasant: “If my hat falls in the spring, I won’t pick it up” (that is, I’m so busy).

On top of everything else, if we prepare the beds for winter in the fall, think for yourself how much we will ease the spring worries: all that will need to be done is to loosen the ready-made beds, make holes for planting seedlings or furrows to sow seeds, and begin to carry out the usual procedures related to shoots or seedlings, without rushing or being late.

In what order should the beds be prepared?

The first step is to clear the areas of future beds from weeds and plant debris and burn them outside the site, although if they are without signs of disease, then it is quite possible to put them in compost heap, and then add chalk or lime as a fertilizer when digging the soil and, if necessary, add chalk or lime along with fertilizers to normalize the pH.

You need to clear weeds as thoroughly as possible, everything creeping weeds, wheatgrass with parts of its root system and dandelions just need to be excluded (uprooted) from the garden by all possible ways, they shouldn’t be there, no matter how much effort you spend on it.

When the soil is free from weeds and plant residues, that is, it is in pure form, you can enrich it with the elements necessary for each plant - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Since nothing will grow in these beds this season, you can add urea (20-25 g per square meter), superphosphate (18-20 g per square meter) and potassium chloride (15-20 g per square meter). In this case, there is no need to be afraid of potassium chloride, since by spring the chlorine will be neutralized and will be safe for plants. In addition, it is advisable to add well-rotted manure at 5-6 kg per square meter, or humus (3-4 kg per square meter) and wood ash (stove or soot) at 250-300 g per square meter of soil.

If the soils of your site are heavy and clayey, then you need to add river sand in a bucket per square meter, preferably mixed with compost in the same amount, this will increase the looseness of the soil and enhance its fertility.

Sandy soils do not retain moisture and nutrients well; here it is necessary to add a bucket of clay per square meter, as well as well-rotted compost (5-6 kg per square meter), leaf humus (3-4 kg per square meter) and sawdust (bucket per square meter). Be careful about sawdust - they can acidify the soil, so you need to use as gray as possible, that is, almost rotted sawdust.

Soils are acidic, where the acid-base balance (pH) is below 6.0, it is necessary to lime or chalk. If the acidity is below 4.5, then lime should be used at 200-250 g per square meter, if the acidity is from 5.5 to 4.6, then chalk: add 250-300 g of chalk per square meter.

Naturally, fertilizers, chalk, and lime - all this is added during the autumn when preparing the bed for digging, by initially scattering it over the surface and then covering it by digging it with a full bayonet of a shovel.

How to dig up beds?

Usually there are two main options for digging the soil - a non-mouldboard method and a moldboard method. Let's start with the dumpless method of digging. With the dumpless method of digging, they try to do so that most of the earthen lump does not break or turn over. The purpose of such digging of the soil is to maximize the preservation of the beneficial microflora of both the lower and upper layers of the soil. Clods of earth also do not break up.

With the dump digging method, lumps of soil are turned over and broken. Typically, the second option is often used when preparing beds in the fall. In this way, we embed fertilizers deep into the soil, and with them chalk or lime, if necessary, and literally pull the overwintering stages of pests and diseases to the surface.

At the same time, it is undesirable to break up clods of soil, because in this case the soil will freeze to a great depth, becoming maximally disinfected. But if you decide to prepare a full-fledged bed with clearly defined edges and in the spring do not worry about breaking up the clods, then it is better to finish the digging job: break up the clods, level the bed and make the bed a couple of centimeters higher by pouring layers of soil when digging on top of each other soil level, so that eventually the soil on it warms up faster than on the rest of the site.

Preparing beds in the fall. © lasercuttingmachine

Preparing beds for certain crops

So, we talked about how to prepare the bed as a whole. There is nothing complicated about this: we clear the area, add fertilizer for digging, try to dig up the bed with an increase in the soil level, thus outlining the edges of the future bed, but this is in general. It seems to us that we also need to talk about how to properly prepare a bed for the main crops, which certainly exist in every garden; beds for them can also be prepared in the fall.

Beet beds

So, in order for red beets to grow beautifully, you need to choose the most illuminated area, where the soil is light and well-drained. Ideally, of course, the bed for beets should be prepared in the fall on sandy loams and loams with neutral acidity. On heavy soils, clayey, for example, beets will grow poorly even with sufficient nutrition. You should also avoid places where melted water accumulates for a long time, rainwater, and, of course, acidified soils.

The best predecessors for table beets are crops that leave the site early - cucumbers, zucchini, early potatoes, early varieties of sweet peppers and eggplants and, again, early tomatoes. You should not sow beets after spinach, rapeseed, carrots, chard and cabbage.

In the fall, when preparing the soil for beets, it is advisable to add organic fertilizers, for example, compost or humus in the amount of half a bucket per square meter of the future bed. From mineral fertilizers it is quite possible to add potassium chloride in the amount of 12-14 g per square meter, as well as ammonium nitrate and superphosphate at 22-25 g per square meter.

Next, prepare a bed for pumpkins and zucchini.

You need to know that these crops are generally unpretentious and simply respond wonderfully to various fertilizers contained in the soil. You can apply manure under them, but well-rotted manure and in an amount of 3-4 kg per square meter of bed, no more, of course - for digging.

As for the choice of location, the soil must be neutral, therefore, if acid predominates, then chalk or lime must also be added before digging.

The best predecessors for pumpkin and zucchini are considered to be: potatoes, onions, cabbage, root vegetables and legumes, but cucumbers, zucchini and squash are considered the worst.

Pay special attention to the soil, so if the soil is clay, then, as with the general preparation of the bed, you need to add half a bucket of humus and a bucket under the pumpkin and zucchini river sand per square meter for digging. As for mineral fertilizers, 10-15 g of superphosphate, 250 g of ash and 15 g of potassium sulfate are enough.

On sandy soils on which you decide to grow zucchini and pumpkin, add a bucket of clay and half a bucket of humus per square meter.

Beds for dill and other greens

To get a good harvest of dill and other herbs, you must first deal with the predecessors. Good predecessors for green crops are: cabbage, tomatoes and onions, and bad ones are parsnips, celery and carrots.

Next, try in the fall to choose the most well-lit bed, and, therefore, the one that warms up as much as possible. Ideally, the soil should be made as fertile as possible and try to keep snow on it by covering it with spruce branches. Don’t forget to pay attention to the acidity of the future bed; green crops grow poorly in acidic soil, so lime and chalk for digging are necessary if there is high acidity.

For green crops, preparing a bed in the fall is not difficult; the digging depth should not be very large, only 22-23 cm. Be sure to add 2-3 kg of well-rotted manure per square meter and 15-20 g of ammonium nitrate, 8-10 g of potassium sulfate and 10-12 g of superphosphate for the same area. In the spring, all that remains is to loosen the finished bed, make grooves for sowing, be sure to water them (2-3 liters of water per meter) and lightly compact them before sowing to prevent the seeds from sinking (a couple of centimeters deep is enough).

Preparing beds for tomatoes

Tomatoes - their best predecessors are: beets, cucumbers, onions, beans, carrots, various greens, peas, corn and zucchini, and their worst predecessors are potatoes, late cabbage, peppers and eggplants.

That's sorted out, now let's find a site for tomatoes before it gets colder. The best would be fertile soil; it is enough to dig it up, and if it is acidic, then lime it (150-200 g per square meter), but with fertilizers, in particular superphosphate, which tomatoes adore, you can take your time and simply sprinkle it over the surface of the soil without digging. By the way, tomatoes react very jealously to the level of acidity and the dose that we indicated may not have an effect on different types soil For example, if you have sandstone or loam on your site, then it is better to add 250 g of lime for digging, and if there are medium and heavy loams, then 350 g of lime and also for digging.

Don’t make beds for tomatoes that are too high, don’t forget that they themselves are tall plants, so 22-23 cm is quite enough and about a meter wide, you don’t need more either.

Beds for cucumbers

Well, cucumbers, because you are unlikely to find a plot where cucumbers do not grow, but only tomatoes or cabbage. The best predecessors for cucumbers are: tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, onions, legumes, spinach, rhubarb, early and cauliflower, beets, carrots and greens, but the worst are considered to be: cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, squash, melon and watermelon.

Ideally, in the fall, the bed should be made so that it is light, preferably loamy or sandy loam. If the only soil you have is clayey and heavy, add a bucket of river sand per square meter for digging. By the way, cucumbers grow well in slightly acidic soil, so if this is the case for you, then there is no need to worry.

The beds for cucumbers must be dug up with a shovel full and 5-6 kg of well-rotted manure added.

Subtleties of fertilizing warm beds in the autumn

In the autumn, you can build a warm bed, first you need to knock down a box from boards, usually a meter wide and two meters long, lay a drainage layer at the base, this can be, in fact, any large debris, for example, various branches, pieces of boards, stumps , plant tops. You can sprinkle all this with river sand, sawdust, wood chips, weeds, peelings from potatoes and other vegetables, lay leaf litter, humus and scatter wood ash on top. Of course, the layer must be such that fertile soil can fit on top. garden soil(20-30 cm), in which vegetable crops will grow next season.

A few words about mulching

Questions arise whether it is necessary to mulch the beds prepared in the fall, the answer will be positive. In principle, mulch, if it is made from natural components (the same leaf litter pressed down with spruce branches), then it will not in any way affect the vital processes of beneficial microorganisms in the bed you have built. Therefore, in the spring, after removing the mulch, the bed will look even fresher. The main thing is to remove the mulch early so that the soil warms up faster.

Spring is the time to prepare the land for planting crops. The entire future harvest depends on proper care and preparation of the soil. You cannot neglect such an important process as preparing the soil for planting in the spring, because if you miss something, you can forget about great harvests.

Carrots and their healing properties

Of course, oh healing properties oh, we have known carrots since childhood. This is what we are strongly recommended to improve vision, improve lung function and many other preventive measures. Carrots contain a set of vitamins and substances necessary for a person - carotene, iron, potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, zinc, iodine, chromium, as well as vitamins B, C, E, PP and K. truly, the owner of such incredible useful properties can rightfully be called the queen of garden beds. This is the most accessible source beta-carotene necessary for the retina of the eye, which is converted into vitamin A in the human body. List magical properties You can grow carrots for a long time, but in this article I would like to introduce the reader to the basics of proper cultivation of this invaluable crop.

In addition to healing properties, carrots have another excellent property - they are stored for a long time, providing a person with the necessary vitamins and minerals during the cold period of the year, when there are no fresh fruits. At proper storage carrots remain fresh for many months. This is a valuable quality that is possible not only due to the natural qualities of this root vegetable, but also thanks to proper cultivation.

Preparing the soil for planting carrots

The basis for an excellent harvest is proper soil preparation for planting carrots in spring and autumn. Preparation activities include digging the soil and fertilizing it. To understand what exactly your soil needs, you need to distinguish between its type. All your further actions will depend on this.

The first stage of preparing land for carrots begins in the fall, after harvesting. During this period, the earth is dug up and fertilized depending on the type - deep digging with a full bayonet shovel with the addition of sawdust and aerated peat. The amount of sawdust and peat depends on the severity of your soil, but on average three kilograms of the above mixture are used per square meter.

And if the soil has high acidity, then in the fall during digging, lime or chalk is added at the rate of one glass per square meter. Over the winter, all these additives will be absorbed and have the most effective effect. Spring rains and melting snow will evenly distribute and absorb the necessary elements.

For chernozem, two tablespoons of perphosphates are enough. Organic fertilizers can be applied in the spring, when it is time to re-cultivate the soil before planting.

Soil types

Carrots, though unpretentious plant, loves loose loamy and sandy soil. Such soil gives carrots the sweet and juicy taste that we all appreciate so much. The soil should not be acidic, ideal acidity (pH) is 5.6-7.

A better composition is achieved by adding the missing elements. First, you need to determine the type of soil; for this, let’s remember a simple rule: take a handful of soil and soak it. Next we try to form a ball from the resulting mush. If the mass crumbles in your hands, then such soil
considered sandy. Sandy loam soil does not roll into a ball, but it can be rolled out in your palms into a cord. Clay soil with this method of determination becomes very plastic and lends itself to “sculpting”. Loam also turns into a ball, but nothing more.

How to Make Soil Suitable for Growing Carrots

Once the type of soil is determined, it becomes clear what needs to be done next. If your plot consists of fertile black soil, you don’t need to do anything other than regular fertilizers. Peat soil will require sand, clay soil will require sand with peat.

Preparing the soil for planting carrots in spring

As already mentioned, the soil is cultivated twice a year - in the fall, after harvesting, and in the spring before planting. In the fall, the soil is thoroughly dug up to the entire depth of the spade bayonet in order to saturate it with oxygen and prepare it for wintering. Deep digging is also necessary to ensure that winter low temperatures destroyed pathogenic bacteria from the soil surface.

In spring, it is enough to loosen and level the soil.

It is very important to choose the site itself, because carrots love the sun and do not like excess moisture. The best place– this is a flat area that is easily accessible sun rays. If you plant carrots in lowlands where moisture accumulates, the tubers will grow small and deformed.

In spring, the soil is saturated with organic matter - humus or compost. The soil should be loose and as light as possible, and the beds should be arranged so that moisture can drain freely.

Carrots are not afraid if they are planted after other crops, such as potatoes, cucumbers or tomatoes. The main thing is that there is nothing foreign in the ground, such as weeds.

How to ensure comfort in the garden beds

Carrots grow slowly and, as already mentioned, are afraid of excess moisture. If the soil has the ability to accumulate water, then organize ridge beds - raise the soil by 25-35 centimeters. If the soil dries well, then simply make grooves with a distance of 20-25 centimeters from each other. Before planting, the ground is leveled and loosened a couple of days before planting, then watered. You can cover it with film so that the earth “steams”. The seeds are soaked before planting. Plant the prepared seeds in stripes at a distance of one and a half to two centimeters from each other. Then the top is covered with a mixture of organic fertilizers or peat with sand, depending on the prepared soil.

After this, the bed is covered again with film. This is necessary to save heat and moisture; if everything is done correctly, then with this method, seedlings appear already on the sixth day after planting. As soon as the first green shoots appear, protective film cleaned up.

Carrot planting dates

In Russia, carrots traditionally begin to be planted at the end of April, when the likelihood of night frosts is minimal.

For the southern regions, other dates are mid-March and mid-June for the second landing.

Cultivation care

Carrots, although unpretentious, require attention. Firstly, it grows slowly, and weeds quickly, so weeding is a constant need. Secondly, the process of planting seeds itself means an uncontrolled amount of seeds in the furrows. In this case, after the seeds sprout and grow by 10-15 centimeters, the bed should be thinned out. In order for roots to be large and developed, they need space to grow. Dense planting without thinning will produce frail, unedible root crops.

Watering should be done according to circumstances. If the summer is rainy, then you need to make sure that the crop does not rot - you need to drain the area in time. During a drought, it is necessary to prevent the soil from drying out; nevertheless, the carrots should be juicy and plump. Long, regularly shaped carrots grow in soil that is not too dry, while gnarled and short roots are a sign of improper soil preparation or poor choice of site.

The secret of tasty and healthy carrots is in your hands

So, in order to keep a supply of tasty and healthy carrots in your basement in winter, you must adhere to simple rules preparing the soil for planting in autumn and spring, as well as properly caring for the future magnificent harvest:

• prepare the soil twice a year - in the fall, carefully dig up the soil, adding necessary fertilizers depending on the composition of the soil. In spring, loosen and fertilize before planting.
• prepare the seeds by soaking them in water a day before planting.
• plant the seeds correctly, avoiding excess moisture in the beds or cold.
• thin out the seedlings and maintain sufficient distance between growing root crops.
• Timely water or dry the area where the carrots grow. Remember, she loves warmth and sun!

We hope these tips will help you grow an excellent harvest of tasty and, most importantly, very healthy carrots that will supply you with vitamins and minerals all winter!

You can grow an excellent carrot crop on your own plot if you know what issues require closer study and attention. First of all, you should take care of the soil in which this useful root vegetable will grow. Good result can be achieved by growing carrots in light loam or sandy loam soils. A crust forms on top of the clay soil, which creates a barrier to seed germination. This will cause the seedlings to be scattered and uneven. The amount of crop harvested will depend directly on the quality of the land in which it grows. IN bad soil the harvest may be several times smaller than from a similar area in suitable land.

Soil for carrots

For planting carrots, suitable soil contains a lot of organic matter (humus), good drainage, and the soil is loose and light. It is not recommended to add fresh manure and large amounts of mineral supplements, since an excess has a bad effect on the growth and development of carrots. An excess of fertilizers can lead to the appearance of gnarled root crops and one of the main pests of carrots - the carrot fly.

The choice of fertilizers to be applied in the spring depends on the type of soil. If it is black soil, then you need to add a couple of tablespoons of superphosphate to it. To the clayey and podzolic soil you need to add a bucket of granular river sand, peat, sawdust and half a bucket of humus, superphosphate and nitrophoska (a tablespoon of each fertilizer). Half a bucket of humus, peat, a couple of buckets of turf soil and sawdust are poured into sandy soil.

Thus, fertile soils require very little mineral fertilizers, and in areas poor in nutrients, humus and wood ash should be added to the soil.

It is better to plant carrots where cucumbers, onions, and potatoes previously grew, under which humus had already been added. After these plants, there is a lot of decomposed organic matter in the ground, which creates a suitable environment for carrot shoots. In addition, the soil after these plants is not overgrown with weeds. This important quality, because young carrots grow much slower than weeds, so they easily shade and suppress them.

Carrots can be returned to the old bed after four years from the date of the previous planting. This will help collect best harvest and prevent the development of various diseases.

Carrot bed

They begin to prepare the bed in which the carrots will grow in the fall, digging it to the depth of a spade bayonet. To make the soil softer, during digging you need to add sawdust and peat (3 kg per sq. m.) to it.

In the spring, a few days before planting, the soil needs to be dug up again, leveled and watered, and then covered with film. On the day of sowing, the soil should be loosened a couple of centimeters deep, and furrows should be made in it, located at a distance of 20 centimeters from each other. Water the grooves with diluted potassium permanganate or just water, pour the seeds into them. Next, the grooves are mulched with peat and covered with film.

Carrot along with potatoes and onions, it is one of the main vegetables, so all gardeners find a place for it in their plots. Proper growing of carrots, is the key to a rich harvest.

Even in small areas you can get a high-quality and productive harvest. And if you combine the implementation of the basic rules of agricultural technology with advice experienced gardeners, then you can achieve great results in growing carrots, while also saving your labor costs and precious time that can be spent on relaxation.

Harvest carrots on high warm beds

Method of growing carrots, which will allow you to get a carrot harvest in a small area: 2.4 m2, which will last until the next season.

The determining factor in this method is the presence of warm high beds, which guarantees optimal conditions for carrot growth. Namely, it is a deep, loose, fertile layer.

Without such a bed, we can achieve such a layer on our su clay soils ah, almost impossible.

The second main condition for obtaining a good harvest is the choice of seeds and their correct landing. It is better to purchase seeds from trusted manufacturers and better coated (that is, covered with a nutritious coating). Such seeds allow us to follow the exact pattern, maintaining the required distances, which in turn makes it possible to perform the most unpleasant technological technique - thinning out the sprouted carrots.

Any thinning means injury to neighboring plants and attracts pests to the garden bed, especially carrot flies. And weeding itself is a rather tedious and time-consuming task.

So, we’ve decided on the seeds, let’s start sowing. It is done as follows: pour a 5 cm layer of old sifted sawdust onto a prepared, leveled bed, make grooves in them along the bed with a depth to the ground and a distance of 20 cm from each other, and 10 cm from the edge of the bed.

Next, we spill these grooves with warm water; for disinfection, you can add potassium permanganate to the water until it turns pink. Then, without being lazy and painstakingly laying them out into grooves, one seed at a time every 3-4 cm. After laying them out, sprinkle them with sawdust and pour warm water over them again, but from a watering can with a sprayer.

All the main labor-intensive work has been completed, we are waiting for the shoots, which usually appear in 5-10 days depending on the temperature. During this time, sawdust does not allow weeds to germinate, so carrot shoots are easily visible. But 5-6 days after germination, you will still have to weed the bed, although this is loudly said, or rather, it would be better to say, remove the weeds that rarely break through.

During the summer, it is enough to weed the garden bed twice in the same way, until the tops of the carrots themselves close. Sawdust also made it possible to reduce the volume of irrigation per unit area and prevent rain from clogging or eroding the soil. As you understand, loosening with this approach is completely eliminated.

Of course, there can be no talk about any fertilizers, for example, such as nitrophoska and even Agricola Vegeta and Effecton-O, related to organic fertilizers. After all, the bed itself presupposes the presence required quantities nutrients for the entire period of carrot growth.

High yield of carrots without much hassle

I want to give carrot advice. After all, it’s not always possible to grow good carrots. This is a troublesome task, especially weeding, thinning, and loosening.

All of us, residents of the middle zone, sow carrots in the first half of May. But here’s what I recommend: two weeks before sowing, wrap the carrot seeds in an old rag, soak them and dig them onto the bayonet of a shovel somewhere in the garden bed. Trample the ground and place a peg with a label. As the soil ripens, the seeds will become heavier, swell, and even sag a little.

And when the time comes for sowing, we do this: carefully, slowly, dig up the bed, scatter it over the entire surface ( stove ash, approximately 1 cup per 1 m 2 ) . We harrow carefully with a rake to break up clods of earth. Then we make markings along the bed, pulling the string. We make the distance between the rows 40 cm. We tread a groove along the lace (we go foot to foot) to create a dense bottom the width of the foot. We thoroughly moisten the soil in the groove by watering from a watering can.

When the water is absorbed, we begin to lay out the seeds by removing them from the hole. Once swollen, they will be clearly visible on a smooth bottom. The distance between the seeds is 5-6 cm, so as not to thin out later. Then we rake the soil from the sides of the groove and fill in the seeds, lightly pat down the row, do not water, so as not to form a crust that interferes with air access to the crops. Shoots will appear in a week. Now we need to water the plants and loosen the rows to destroy the weeds. The carrots will grow great!

Sow your favorite varieties using labor-saving technology. Excellent variety “Nanskaya” or its hybrids. The result is always good. The same " carrot method» Use for sowing parsley, beets, chives, and flower annuals. The main thing is not to forget to dig in the seeds in time, about 12-14 days before sowing, then you won’t have to bother with the seedlings and there will be less work to do in the spring.

Good neighbors. Carrots and onions in one bed

Experienced summer residents claim that onions and carrots get along well in the same bed, since their roots are located at different levels - carrots are deep, and onions are superficial, so they do not interfere with each other. But you need to ensure that the greenery of the carrots does not shade the onions. There are no problems with growing, and the harvest and taste of vegetables will certainly please you. If you want to test this claim, select a garden bed and try growing onions and carrots in it.

For planting, the bed must be made 1.2 meters wide and in the spring it should be filled with fertilizer. For these purposes you can use (chicken manure (3-4 buckets) or compost (7-8 buckets)) . It is good to add 250 g of double superphosphate to the organic matter.

You need to plant onions and carrots at the same time. Planting material must first be prepared.

To do this, stick the carrot seeds with starch paste onto thin paper cut into the width of the bed (1.2 m). Or use ready-made seed strips purchased from specialty stores. You can spread the pelleted seeds by hand.

The distance between the seeds should be approximately 2-3 cm.

Before planting, onions need to be soaked for 2-3 hours in a humate solution.

Do not add anything to the beds where carrots will grow. And in places where onions are planted, sprinkle the furrow with ash mixed with mineral fertilizer in the proportion of 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per liter jar ash.

When planting, a strip of paper with seeds should be carefully laid across the width of the bed to a depth of about 2 cm and sprinkled with soil. Plant onions in the next row. It is important not to press the bulbs into the soil, but to carefully place them on it. The distance between the rows should be from 10 to 15 cm. Cover the bed with plantings for 15 days with covering material.

The onion will grow first and should be fed. Onion feeding should be done when its feathers grow to 8-10 cm. To do this, prepare a solution: (For 10 liters of water, take 1 tbsp. spoon of ash, urea, double superphosphate extract and kerosene) . It is good to repeat fertilizing after 10-12 days.

Following the onions, carrots begin to grow intensively: the root crops increase in size, acquiring a good taste. In mid-August, the onion harvest can be harvested. And then expect a rich harvest of delicious carrots.

We are preparing a bed for carrots. Fertilizer application

When growing carrots to get a rich harvest great importance has bed preparation.

When growing carrots, you must remember that this crop is demanding on the composition of the soil. Good carrot yields can be obtained on light and medium loamy soils, or on cultivated peat lands with pH = 7.0 (neutral), free from weeds, and well drained.

Fresh manure is not added to the soil for carrots..

Carrots grow well in lands where last year predecessors grew - cabbage, green and legume crops, potatoes, tomatoes.

It is better to dig up the carrot bed in the fall to the depth of a bayonet shovel and leave it until spring. There is no need to break the lumps. This way it will freeze better and in the spring there will be no such lumps; the frozen moisture will break them into small particles.

If you have acidic soil, then before digging add to each square. m beds, one glass of dolomite flour, fluff lime or chalk.

Bed for planting carrots Prepare 2-3 days before sowing.

Depending on the composition and fertility of the soil, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied in the spring.

For every sq. m beds at peat soils add (5 kg of coarse river sand, 3-5 kg ​​of manure humus, one bucket of turf soil (clayey or loamy)).

Mineral fertilizers are also added: (one teaspoon of sodium nitrate or urea (carbamide), one tablespoon of powdered superphosphate and potassium chloride or potassium sulfate).

Then, after adding all these components, the bed is dug into

depth 20-25 cm (because the main varieties of carrots have long roots). The bed is well developed, the surface is leveled and compacted. After which the ridge is watered with the following solution: (dilute one teaspoon (at level) in a bucket of warm water copper sulfate and one glass of mushy mullein) , stir well and water at the rate of two liters per square meter. m beds. Then, to avoid moisture evaporation and to preserve heat, the bed is covered with plastic film.

On clay and podzolic soils (for every sq. m of bed, add 1-2 buckets of peat and coarse sand, one bucket of humus, half a bucket (3-5 kg) of fine (processed) sawdust(better not fresh, rotten)).

Mineral fertilizers for carrots: (add crushed superphosphate - one tablespoon and nitrophoska - two tablespoons) . In the spring you need to liming with chalk or dolomite flour, if you didn’t do it in the fall (which is preferable): two to three tablespoons for each square meter. m.

For light loamy soils (they consist of clay and sand) - produce fertilizer in the same way as clay soils, but do not add sand.

On sandy soils add two buckets of peat, turf soil and one bucket of processed sawdust and humus. Mineral fertilizers are applied the same as for clay soils. If granular fertilizers are used, there is no need to grind them into powder.

On chernozem fertile soils add half a bucket of small old or fresh processed sawdust and a bucket of sand.

Mineral fertilizers: (add two tablespoons of superphosphate, crushed into powder To).

Humus manure can be replaced with compost, but it should not contain weed seeds.

3-4 days before adding sawdust to the soil, they need to be processed. This is done in this way: 5 buckets of fresh sawdust are poured onto a piece of film laid out on the ground. Bred in a bucket hot water five tablespoons of nitrogen fertilizer (ammonium sulfate or urea) are poured into a watering can and the sawdust is slowly poured with this solution. The higher the temperature of the solution (40-50°C), the faster the sawdust will be ready for use in the garden bed.

Fresh sawdust, not processed in this way, can be added to the beds only in the fall. If you add fresh sawdust in the spring, the leaves of the carrot seedlings will have a pale color due to a lack of nitrogen (sawdust takes nitrogen from the soil when rotting).

When planting carrots on newly developed lands (virgin lands), it is necessary to carefully select all rhizomes when digging, especially wheatgrass, as well as wireworm and May beetle larvae.

Carrots, like all vegetables, are a light-loving crop, so in the shade the root crops grow very short (up to 3-5 cm), and the yield is reduced by two to three times. Excessive moisture in the soil contributes to diseases of carrot roots, so in places where groundwater is close, the beds should be made at least 30-35 cm high.

On poorly cultivated and dense soils, root crops grow in an ugly shape, branch out, and the quality of root crops and yield decrease.

Carrot planting dates

The timing of sowing is decisive for the carrot harvest.

Since carrot seeds germinate slowly, they require good soil moisture and should be sown as early as possible, while there is sufficient spring moisture in the ground. If you are late with sowing, the seeds will fall into dry soil and as a result, rare, weak seedlings will sprout, and often the seeds will not germinate at all and you will have to re-sow the bed.

The most optimal times for sowing carrot seeds are: in the central and middle zone: early varieties - from April 20 to 25; mid-season - from April 25 to May 5.

In the southern regions, sowing is carried out in two periods: to obtain products in summer time, spring - March 10-20, and for obtaining seeds (uterine roots) and winter consumption, summer sowing - June 10-15.

You can sow carrots before winter, on frozen soil, in November - December. Sowing is done with dry seeds so that they cannot germinate until spring, otherwise the seedlings will freeze. Such a carrot winter sowing, grows much earlier, but it is used mainly in summer period, because not suitable for storage.

So having prepared soil for growing carrots, You will get a rich harvest.

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