How to caulk a log house - about a difficult task in simple words. Do-it-yourself caulking of a log house: tasks, stages, working tools and materials Caulking a bathhouse from timber

Building a bathhouse or any other building from a log frame is only half the battle. There is another important job that requires high-quality performance - caulking a bathhouse, which consists of sealing all the cracks to prevent heat loss and wind blowing.

The material for caulking a bath can be chosen from two categories - natural materials (jute, moss, tow) or their synthetic analogues. How to caulk the log house of a bathhouse?

Working with these is much easier and faster than with natural ones. The sealant is leveled with a special spatula and applied with it.

Synthetic sealant

But synthetics also have significant disadvantages:

Some sealants do not tolerate exposure sun rays. They fade, become thinner, or are simply blown out of the cracks by the wind. In this case, it is necessary to think about how and with what to cover the joints of the log house;
Most synthetic sealants do not have the required elasticity. They do not shrink in cold or increase in heat, preventing the natural expansion and contraction of wood.

When choosing synthetic products for caulking a folded log bathhouse, it is extremely important to carefully read the information on the packaging. Make sure that the sealant is suitable for the log wood type, weather conditions and humidity level. Only after this can the product be purchased.

Natural materials

Moss

The undisputed leader among natural materials for caulking baths is moss, which has stood the test of time for centuries. So far, no modern industrial sealant or insulation has been able to surpass moss in quality. What advantages does it have?

Moss treatment

moss is resistant to rotting;
has antibacterial properties;
retains heat perfectly.

Dry moss is first moistened to give it elasticity. The material is then laid on the log so that its ends hang down on both sides. Once the bathhouse is completed, the long ends are trimmed and the remaining moss is tucked between the logs. This is how primary caulking occurs. After six months, and then after another year and a half, the cracks will need to be re-treated.

Jute

Jute has excellent thermal insulation properties; jute fiber remains dry even at high humidity environment. To make work easier, it is recommended to use jute in a roll.

Materials for caulking a jute log house can be of several types:

Jute tow;
Jute felt;
Flax-jute.

Jute tow in bales

To produce tow, jute fibers are not torn, but combed. Jute tow is quite dense and rigid, so working with it is not very convenient.

Since jute is natural material, tow can easily be stolen by birds to build nests. In addition, over time, the jute tow dries out and becomes denser, so caulking the walls will have to be done several more times.

Jute felt consists of 90% small pieces of jute fiber and 10% flax fiber. This material turns out to be quite flexible, dense and warm. But at the same time, short fibers can simply spill out of the material. When purchasing, it is important to pay attention to the length of the fibers - it should be at least two centimeters. Otherwise, the material will quickly lose its thermal insulation properties and the wind will blow into the cracks of the log walls. Also, jute felt requires treatment with a special impregnation that does not allow moths to settle in it.

Flax-jute consists of flax fibers and jute in a ratio of 50 to 50. This material is produced in ribbons, which greatly simplifies its use. Flax-jute is prone to rapid rotting and moth damage. High-quality caulking of a bathhouse with such material is possible only after it has been impregnated from insects and the possible appearance of putrefactive processes.

Tow in blocks

Tow is waste from the processing of jute, flax and other materials. On sale you can find tow already ready for use, as well as pressed into square blocks. It is much more convenient to use ready-made tow, since pressed tow requires pulling out the required amount of material and further twisting it.

Tow is not particularly popular among builders - it is difficult to achieve uniform insulation with it. In addition, this material may be too hard and not elastic enough, so it is not easy to fill the cracks of a timber bathhouse with it accurately and efficiently.

What is the time frame for caulking baths?

When can I start The final stage insulation after the construction of the log house?

If the frame was laid with moss, then it is necessary to cut off its excess. Then the remaining material is tucked into the cracks and carefully pushed inside. All. You should not be particularly zealous - the first caulking will take place six months after the completion of construction. During this time, the tree will finally shrink and excess moisture will evaporate. After completing the first caulking, you can install windows and doors.

A year after the first caulking, the second one is carried out, as final stage insulation. After about five years, another caulking procedure may be used, which is optional and depends on what specific materials were used.

How much material will be needed?

It is impossible to accurately derive a formula by which you can calculate the amount of material for sealing cracks.

Natural material, be it jute or moss, is highly compacted and compressed when processing cracks. So its consumption can be quite large. First of all, material consumption depends on the methods of processing logs and cutting grooves.

In any case, you need to buy material for caulking with a large supply - it will not go to waste and will be useful for a repeat procedure. As for industrial sealants, as a rule, the manufacturer indicates a method for calculating the approximate number of packages.

What rules must be followed?

Materials for caulking baths

The process of caulking a bathhouse itself is quite simple, despite the fact that the work progresses slowly and monotonously. Everything needs to be done efficiently, carefully and slowly; you can spend almost the whole day on this stage.

To obtain a warm bath, it is important not only to caulk the log house correctly, but also not to forget to lay insulation between the rows of logs. It could be jute, moss or tow. The material is laid in two layers, and its edges on all sides should protrude by about 5 centimeters.

You need to start caulking with lower crown, moving around the entire perimeter of the bathhouse from the outside, then carefully seal the cracks from the inside of the building. And only then can you move on to the next crown. Special attention attention should be paid to sealing the corners. As a rule, it is in these places that the most large holes and cracks. The corners are caulked last, using a special spatula of a special shape.

If the first caulking is performed, then the hanging ends of the material are removed first. No tools have yet been used for this, and the material is not compacted. After some time, it is necessary to push the jute or moss deeper until it begins to spring back slightly, opening new cracks. They are also sealed using another piece of caulking material.

The material should not protrude from the recesses by more than 5 mm, otherwise appearance the baths will be sloppy. You should not overdo it with the amount of insulation, as well as with its compaction, as there is a risk that the building will increase in height by 15 centimeters.

In no case should you leave hanging remains outside - birds can easily take them away to build their nests.

Decorative jute cord

For beautification internal view indoors, you can drive a decorative jute cord into the seams, which looks very impressive on the wall.

If a synthetic sealant is used, we must not forget to thoroughly clean the cracks from dust and dirt. After the sealant has dried, it is recommended to varnish the surface.

When using moss or tow, there is no need to “tap” the tree. In this case, the fibers of the insulation break, and completely unnecessary microcracks appear in the log, which over time can lead to rotting of the wooden frame.

Caulking the frame of a bathhouse is not so much a difficult job as it is a responsible one. The main thing is to do everything slowly and carefully.

Nowadays the fashion for building bathhouses and residential buildings from natural wood has been revived. Log houses have a respectable appearance, are warm and environmentally friendly, which is very much appreciated modern people. But even such reliable and energy-saving buildings should be additionally insulated in order to feel truly comfortable in them in any weather.

Caulking - what kind of operation?

Since ancient times in Rus', most buildings were built from logs. Such buildings have always been called log houses. IN last years interest in them has increased significantly, due to their special performance properties wooden houses and baths. The construction of log houses is offered by many companies these days. And experienced home craftsmen even build cozy homes and hot steam rooms made from logs with your own hands. In this article we will not describe the technology for constructing environmentally friendly buildings, but will talk about how to make them warmer. It's about about caulking rules wooden structures. Without this operation, we will not be able to arrange a truly cozy sauna or residential building.

First, let's figure out why you need to caulk a log house? Everything is simple here. During installation, gaps and voids remain between the logs from which this or that structure is built. It is clear that they cannot be left. After all, through such small, at first glance, gaps, precious heat will escape from the room. Instead of a comfortable building, we will get a bathhouse or a house blown by all the winds. Caulking allows you to solve this problem. It is understood as the procedure for carefully sealing all the cracks between logs using special tools and materials. All their varieties will be described below.

Tools for insulating log cabins - unusual, but easy to use

You can do caulking of any log house yourself. To do this, you will need to study the technology of the operation and stock up on special tools:

1. A flat spatula made of hard wood or metal. We need to purchase a tool with a blade about 5.5 mm thick and 10 cm wide. This blade, called a flat caulk, is the main device for insulating log buildings.
2. A tool, called a road builder by specialists, triangular in shape with a blade 8–15 mm thick and at least 17 cm wide, along which a special groove is made. This caulk is needed to form smooth rollers from the strands of the sealing material used.
3. The so-called curved caulk - a flat chisel. The thickness of its working part is 5 mm, width is about 5.5 cm. The chisel makes it possible to seal seams on rounded parts and in the corners of a log structure.
4. With a wooden hammer (mallet). With its help, you can easily fill the seal without worrying about it deforming or collapsing. It is also possible to work with ordinary hammers.

In addition, you need to buy two split caulks - narrow and wide. The width of such devices, which visually resemble a wedge, should be approximately 3.5 cm. Breaking tools are necessary to widen narrow cracks. After using them, it is much easier to place the insulating material into gaps and voids.

The working parts of all these tools must be as smooth as possible, and the ends must not be sharp.

A rough surface will not allow the planned work to be completed efficiently, since the insulation fibers will cling to the caulk and be pulled out of the gaps. And too sharp blades will cut the material used for thermal insulation of the log house.

Let us add that there is no need to be afraid of unfamiliar names. Every self-taught craftsman can use the caulking tool.

Materials for caulking – an assortment for every taste

Thermal insulation of log houses is carried out using different insulation materials (by the way, they are usually called inter-crown insulation), both traditional and more modern. The most famous material for caulking is moss. It can be white and red. Our ancestors used it when constructing buildings from logs. Moss is an environmentally friendly natural material. It has:

low thermal conductivity;
antimicrobial and antiseptic properties;
resistance to temperature changes (this is especially important if we are insulating a bathhouse);
durability.

It is almost impossible to purchase moss in construction stores. Therefore, if you plan to use it, you will have to take care of collecting and proper preparation this material. Here you need to know the following. It is advisable to collect moss in November. At this time, there are practically no insects and snails in it. We carefully sort through the collected material, throw away rotten particles, remove debris and lumps of soil. After this, dry the moss. Don't overdo it. Overdried moss cannot be used; it becomes too brittle. It is almost impossible to push it into the cracks between the crowns and place it tightly there.

An alternative to moss is tow. It is made from flax fibers. Such material can be tape (roll) or bale. Experts recommend using the first type of tow. Insulation in the form of tape is easier to push into the seams. And the heat-protective properties of rolled products are higher. Bale tow is cheaper. But it is characterized by hard and short fibers. Working with such material is very inconvenient. The key advantages of tow are that it is not electrified, has low thermal conductivity, affordable price, antibacteriality. Disadvantages of the material - the insulated seam has an unaesthetic appearance, the installation process is complex and labor-intensive. For these reasons, home craftsmen rarely use tow.

About 10–15 years ago, the insulation of log houses was often done with natural felt. It is environmentally friendly, easy to use, protects the building from street noise and foreign odors, and has increased vapor permeability. But, unfortunately, this material also has two serious disadvantages. Firstly, moths love it very much. She literally chews out the insulation. Secondly, felt is susceptible to rotting.

Jute does not have these disadvantages - it is pliable, soft material in the form of tapes and ropes of different thicknesses. It can be matched to any seam. Jute, according to experts, creates an optimal microclimate in the log house. And most importantly, it is quite simple to install it in the cracks between the logs.

If the log house was built by professionals from ordinary logs or from rounded logs, has a semicircular groove and gaps of small thickness, it can be insulated using sealant. This is the most modern and simplest method of thermal insulation of wooden buildings. The sealant cannot be used in the presence of large gaps and in cases where the grooves of the structure have the shape of a triangle. In such situations, it will be of no use.

We will protect the wooden building from cold and winds ourselves

Caulking of a bathhouse or a residential building made of logs is carried out twice. The first time insulation is carried out directly during the construction of the log house. We need to lay the selected material after installing each crown. If we use insulation in the form of tape, the operation takes place with minimal time. We roll out the insulation along the crown and fix it with a construction stapler (staples). If it is necessary to lay additional tape, we mount it on the previous one with a 5-centimeter overlap. Cover installed material the next crown and repeat the procedure.

If you use moss, you will have to tinker a little longer. We take a bunch of dried material (we moisten it if necessary), lay it across the log. The fibers should hang 5-6 cm on each side of the log. Then we lay the second bundle close to the first. The moss layer is quite impressive. The tree should not be visible through it. The thicker the layer, the better the insulation.

The second part of caulking is carried out after installing all the crowns of the building and installing the roof on it. Repeated thermal insulation is necessary for any structure, be it a residential building or a bathhouse. The wall insulation scheme looks like this:

1. Take a bunch of tow (moss, felt), apply it to the seam between the logs, and use a caulking blade to press the fibers into the gap. We begin work from the end of the building from the bottom row.
2. Carefully twist the protruding ends of the material. We will get a roller 8–10 cm in length. It should be applied to the gap and pushed back between the logs using caulk, leaving only a small tip.
3. We weave the next bundle of material into the free end and continue to insulate the frame. The roller must not be interrupted. It must remain intact along the entire length of the gap.

It will take a lot of time to complete such a labor-intensive operation. But we will get a well-sealed building. And you can reduce labor costs by using not tow or moss, but tape materials. Installing them is much faster and easier. We simply cut off a piece of tape to the required length and begin hammering it into the seams. After insulating the walls, we begin to insulate the corners of the log house. This operation is also easier to perform with tapes. They are pushed into the gaps with crooked caulk.

Caulking with sealant can be done after complete shrinkage of the structure. The procedure for performing such work is given below:

1. We thoroughly clean the seams between the crowns from debris and dust, wipe them with a dry rag.
2. We process all joints primer composition(water-based or rubber-based primer), using a spray or a regular brush.
3. Wait for the soil to dry.
4. We insert a tourniquet made of polyethylene (foam) into the gaps. We select products that match the width of the seams.
5. Apply sealant.

To give the log house an elegant look, we treat the insulated joints with tinted or colorless varnish.

Typically, the construction of a building is not the end point of the entire project. In order for the house to last good timing, it is important to follow the rules of care and preventive repair. This is especially true for log buildings. One of the key points you need to know is how to caulk a log house.

What, why, when

A bathhouse or house that was built from rounded logs or logs usually shrinks. In some cases, this value can reach 15–20 cm in the first year. This factor must be taken into account when designing. This phenomenon occurs when some of the moisture is lost and drying out occurs. During this process, loose connections of material may appear where previously everything seemed quite tight. To compensate for this unpleasant fact, it will be necessary to seal the seams. Simply put, this is an event that is aimed at sealing cracks to prevent drafts and reduce heat loss. Caulking should be done after complete shrinkage, which occurs within 6–7 months.

The better

In order to carry out the log sealing process as efficiently as possible, you need to acquire not only good tool, but also suitable material, and also have an idea of how to use them correctly. From the devices we will need:

Caulk. This is a small device that in appearance resembles a chisel or chisel. Typically, to carry out tasks efficiently, you will need at least two types. One of them is called typesetting. The width of its blade can reach 10 cm. Thanks to it, you can quickly cover large areas. The second will be smaller, about 2-3 cm. It will be needed during compaction corner connections. Skilled craftsmen use a curved tool, which allows them to do the work much better, but requires special skill.
Material that will be used to fill the gaps. Previously, only natural fibers were used for these purposes. Today, synthetic materials have already been invented, as well as various sealants.
Hammer. In this case, you can use any one you have on the farm, but it’s better if it’s a small sledgehammer.

Some craftsmen believe that it will be more convenient to work with a wooden or rubber mallet, since the blow is soft and as a result the logs are not damaged. Opinions may differ, so everyone chooses the most suitable tool for themselves.

Moss

Red marsh moss is used for these purposes. This is one of the most environmentally friendly methods. It serves as a kind of antiseptic that prevents rotting. It has been used for centuries. This material allows the wood to breathe best. You can’t lay it too wet, you need to let it dry a little.

If this is not done, this may lead to the joints beginning to rot and the structure becoming unusable. But it is also not recommended to lay it dry. In this state, it will crumble easily, and subsequently will not be able to seal the seams hermetically. Before driving it, it is necessary to carry out certain processing. A water-based solution (10 l) is prepared, to which 500 ml of oil and 250 g are added laundry soap. Everything is mixed until the soap is completely dissolved. After this, the moss is soaked and laid to drain a little. To make the roller easier to form, some craftsmen add tow fibers.

Tow

It is also a natural material that is very familiar to plumbers. Due to its fibrous structure, it serves as a good sealant. Some craftsmen are not very fond of this fiber. The fact is that it is quite difficult to work with him. Also, over time, the tow becomes unusable, which will force you to take out its remains and do everything again. Before laying it, it will be necessary to treat it with a special substance that will serve as an antiseptic and also repel insects that can feed on both the fibers themselves and cause harm to the wood.

An excellent material that, like moss, allows the tree to breathe. He is good filter, which does not allow odors to pass through. Additional synthetic inclusions began to be added to modern material, which made it even more durable. The main disadvantage of using this solution is that moths love to feast on felt. Before caulking, it is treated with special compounds that repel this insect.

A modern material that is 100% flax and is a production waste. It is a good seal that does not interfere with air circulation. It has some rigidity, which complicates the caulking process.

One of the most the best materials. It not only perfectly fills cracks, but also protects the inter-crown space from moisture penetration. Birds don't use it to build their nests, so you don't have to worry about them pecking it off. It is made from wood from the linden family. It is usually imported from other countries. The material is soft and flexible.

Jute rope. In addition to its direct purpose, such caulking serves as a decorative finish.

Sealant

This modern method. Many manufacturers have joined this race. The material is supplied in special tubes. It is applied to the joints, after which a beautiful seam is formed.

What to choose is a personal decision for each individual. Everything will depend on the budget, as well as the availability of a particular material in a particular area. But it’s better not to skimp on material.

Technology

The process of sealing inter-crown seams is divided into two types. They are interchangeable and rather complement each other.

Stretch. This type got its name due to the fact that the material stretches along the entire seam and the fibers intertwine with each other. It is usually used for primary caulking. After the construction of the log house, the cracks are still quite small, so there is no point in filling them with a thick layer of insulation and it is useless. The material is arranged in fibers so that they are perpendicular to the logs. Using a tool, it is pushed into the cracks. After this, the ends that are left hanging are tucked into a roller and compacted tightly into the seam.
Included in the set. This method is used after the log house has shrunk and the cracks have become more noticeable. To do this, you will need to collect all the fibers in a heap and make ropes from them, which are then wound into a ball. Moreover, the thickness of such a rope will have to be calculated separately for each seam, because the cracks are not the same everywhere.

After the distribution of roll material, the process of sealing seams was greatly simplified. Primary laying is usually done immediately when laying the logs. To do this, it is placed on the lunar recess roll material and secured with a construction stapler. Next, the log is placed in its place. No need to carry out additional work after complete assembly.

During initial sealing, it is important not to save material, but also not to lay it in a large layer. One strip will not be enough, so two are laid. One should go next to the other, and the edges should protrude a few centimeters. This is very important to give stability to the log and make it easier for yourself when re-processing is carried out.

Secondary compaction, which takes place at least six months later, is not the last. In about 4-5 years, when the building has finally settled down, it will be necessary to treat the seams again. You can follow the following sequence:

We clean the seams from debris and material that has come out or worn out. You can use a vacuum cleaner to make the task easier.
Caulking needs to be done one by one, not one by one. Those. You need to move around the circumference of each row. This is important so that distortion does not occur and the building is not damaged.
You should start with outside, and then move inside the building.
You need to unwind the tape. Its length should be 15–20 cm greater than the length of the wall. This is important, because during the compaction process folds are formed, which will be used for this reserve.
Now it is important to carefully tuck one of the edges of the tape into the gap to secure it.
Next, using a caulk and a hammer, we make a compaction. To do this, we lift the hanging end, tuck it in and tamp it down. This operation must be completed in several passes. You shouldn’t try to hammer everything in at once, as this can lead to misalignment faster and the sealing itself will be worse. When twisted several times, a seam is formed in the form of a rope, which is dense enough to not allow air from the street to pass through.
We repeat the operation from the inside.
We move from the lower (flashing) crown to the upper one. Perhaps in the upper part it will be enough to simply tuck the material in without special effort so as not to interfere with further shrinkage.

You need to be careful not to overdo the layering. During caulking, the frame is raised. If you make the backing too thick, it can cause the lift to exceed the size of one log. The consequence may be that the dowels will not hold up and the beams will fall out.

Insulation with sealant is much easier. To do this, purchase a special lace of a suitable diameter. It is usually made from synthetic materials. It fits effortlessly into the seam to cover the gap. After this, mastic is applied. Its layer should be 5 mm wide and 10 mm high. After application, the composition is sprayed with impregnation, after which it is leveled with a small spatula. In the first few days you will have to curtain the seams on the sunny side, because... The manufacturer usually advises avoiding direct sunlight until completely dry.

The sealant is also used after application natural materials. It helps protect the seal from pests and animals. Inside the house, instead of sealant, you can use twine of sufficient diameter to decorate caulked joints.

Usually, self-sealing a log house does not cause any particular difficulties and does not require great skills. The only thing you need is patience, because it will take a lot of time.

Video

This video shows the process of caulking with acrylic sealants:

Many are already looking at wooden houses in the form of a log house. After all, they look beautiful and are quite warm inside. After all, during the construction of a building, insulation is laid between the crowns of logs, this gives additional confidence in the quality of the log house.

But several years pass and after the house has completely settled, all sorts of cracks and crevices appear. This not only makes the house cold but also spoils the appearance. In addition, unclosed cracks are the places where mold and rot will first appear, which will subsequently lead to damage to the building.

To prevent this from happening, after the building shrinks, the log house is caulked. There are several methods for this procedure depending on the selected material; in this article we will look at them.

Material for log caulking

Caulking of a log house can be done various materials. If insulating jute was used when assembling the building and its ends protrude properly, then this will be sufficient to carry out the necessary manipulations as described below and additional material you won't need it.

If no insulation was used when assembling the log house or its ends do not protrude from the cracks, you will have several options regarding the choice of material.

Most old way This is caulk with moss. Although it is time-tested, today there are many modern materials who have more best qualities for this purpose.

Tow is also very often used for these purposes. To ensure the quality of work is as good as possible, you need to choose jute tow. It will lay down evenly, and it will be easier to work with.

Caulking with rope is often used, and it is recommended to use jute or linen rope.

IN Lately the so-called warm seam. This is the result of new technologies that are rapidly advancing especially in the construction industry.

Technology of caulking a log house with jute

To perform caulking we will need:

Small hammer – 300 – 400 gr.
Chisel 20 mm.
Caulk trowel or wide chisel
Rubber mallet

The caulking of the log house must be done after the building has settled and shrinked. First, during assembly, jute insulation must be laid between the crowns. The caulking process involves turning the jute with a spatula from top to bottom and then compacting it in the groove between the logs. In this case, light blows of the hammer are made on the shoulder blade. You will end up with a folded strip of jute in the form of a rope, which is very practical.

The work is carried out in two stages - primary caulking and main caulking. It is necessary to take into account that caulking of a log house is carried out only after the house has settled; for this it must stand for at least half a year.

Primary caulking is done without strong compaction, especially in those places where the logs have not yet settled into place. In such places, the jute is tucked without compaction, but care should be taken to leave room for further shrinkage of the logs. Caulking a log house, its technology is not very complicated, so we will look at it in detail below.

Caulking must be done sequentially - from bottom to top. First of all, the lower groove around the perimeter of the building will be caulked, then the second groove, etc. It is important to do everything around the perimeter, otherwise caulk separate wall may cause the building to tilt. We also need to take into account that the higher we rise, the less we need to seal the grooves with jute. And the very top two or three grooves are tucked only with the help of a spatula, without hammer blows, this is done in order to avoid the slightest compaction of the jute.

The fact is that the log house will shrink for at least another five years, so the upper crowns will eventually crush the jute tightly themselves.

In the log house, the ends are the most weakness, because of the cut out bowls, so you need to caulk carefully, without unnecessary effort.

The second caulking, the main one, is carried out together with the finishing, where the caulking of the log house is carried out more tightly. It is advisable to carry out this operation no less than a year and a half after the construction of the building. During this time, the log house will shrink almost completely and, without fear, you will be able to install windows and doors, carry out electrical work and install plumbing.

Periodically, you need to inspect the log house for cracks, especially after a hot summer. After all, even a small gap can lead to wood rotting.

Video instructions for caulking a log house with jute:

This method is not the best today, because there are already many other modern materials that allow you to perform this procedure more quickly and with better quality. But if you decide to use moss for caulking, first of all you need to choose it correctly.

So, moss called “cuckoo flax” or it is also called “red flax” is suitable for caulking a log house. It has long fibers, brownish brown in color, with shades of red. “White moss” is also used, or its correct name is “sphagnum moss”. This moss is very soft, similar to cotton wool. Has excellent antiseptic and bactericidal properties. Wood pests will never grow in it; moss also kills all fungal spores. Both of these plants are often called construction types moss.

During the construction of a log house, it is laid between the crowns of logs as insulation. In the future, using moss, you can caulk it. This is done twice, the first time immediately after assembly, the second time after some time has passed when the house has settled. This can take from one and a half to two years, or even more.

The moss must first be dried before caulking. And before the process itself, it needs to be moistened with water, otherwise it will crumble upon physical contact.

Caulking timber with moss also requires special tools, you will need:

Kiyanok
Caulker

A caulk is a small blade made from the same wood as the frame. This is done so that upon physical contact with the logs they have the same hardness, which will avoid leaving marks on the log house.

Mallet is a small wooden hammer, with the help of which blows are applied to the caulk. This allows you to push the moss into the cracks with greater force and fill the free space more tightly.
As in other technologies, caulking begins from the very bottom, going through the entire perimeter. This approach will avoid possible distortion building. First they pass the crown from the inside, and then from the outside.

If “cuckoo flax” moss is used, it is formed into a strip up to 10 cm thick, laid parallel to the log and the gap is tightly caulked using the above tools. When used, the white moss fluffs up a little, laying is done perpendicular to the log, so that the fibers hang down by about 5 - 10 cm. Next, caulk is made with the same tools.

Caulk of a log house with a rope

The technology for using rope for caulking is not much different from the above methods. The only thing that needs to be added is that this material needs to be treated more carefully, because it is used not only for insulating the house but also for decorative design, so even light damage is unacceptable.

Caulking a log house with rope, stages:

The places where the rope will be laid must be cleaned and even washed if possible.
Treat the log house with antiseptic properties, it is desirable that they have fire retardant properties.
We make rope piercing of the log house using tools. This work is done carefully, making sure that the cord does not twist. Also make sure that the driving depth is the same everywhere.
As with other materials, work is carried out from the bottom up along the entire perimeter.
The undoubted advantage of using jute rope is its decorative component.

Warm seam technology

Before using this method, the seams where this technology will be used must be cleaned. Especially if the cracks are painted with varnish or other materials.

Next, vilotherm must be placed in the cracks and cracks - this is a cord-shaped material made of polyethylene foam. Please note that the cord should be about a third thicker than the slot. This material not only insulates the log house, but will also reduce the consumption of the sealant used.

The sealant is applied with a gun and immediately leveled with a spatula. The recommended sealant thickness is from 4 to 6 mm. Moreover, the adhesion area with wood must be at least 4 mm. from each side. The sealant hardens in no more than a day, so during this time it must be protected from precipitation. You can use plastic film for this purpose. Complete hardening of the substance will occur in approximately 48 hours at a temperature of 23 degrees. Once cured, the sealant turns into a rubber-like substance, so your log house will be as protected as possible.

Now, after complete drying, you can smooth the seam, remove any excess and paint with acrylic-based paints.

Caulking a log house in this way can only be done after the log house has shrunk. This work can be done outside in about a year, but inside the house only after a season with the heating on.

This technology has a number of advantages:

Only done once.

Protects against water ingress, which prevents mold.

Makes your home significantly warmer.

Resistant to temperature changes, not afraid of moisture.

Easy to use, which allows you to significantly speed up the caulking of timber.

A beautiful appearance that allows you to veil even the shortcomings of the building itself.

Caulk with moss

In caulking with moss, the main thing is no longer compliance with technological subtleties - in this respect it is much simpler than caulking with fibrous materials - but the preparation of material. More precisely, purchasing. Forest and swamp building moss goes on sale, but self-harvesting of tree moss is possible only in certain places very remote from civilization, and self-harvesting of bog moss in most developed countries is prohibited and punishable by law: in recent decades, the extremely important role of swamps as moisture accumulators and regulators has been revealed natural processes. In addition, mosses actively accumulate many useful and harmful microelements; swamp moss is a natural filter for radionuclides. By caulking with moss collected yourself, you risk not only infecting the frame with rot, mold and pests, but also yourself and your loved ones, which is no better.

The best moss for caulking is bog sphagnum, or cuckoo flax, pos. 1 in Fig: it never wakes up in buildings and releases substances that protect wood from damage. But it is impossible to caulk with bright green fresh sphagnum (item 2) - on the contrary, it will overheat and ruin the frame. You need to caulk with moss (both swamp and forest), dried until it withers without rotting, pos. 3. This moss is sold in bags (item 4). It must be stored in them until use, not allowing it to dry out completely: moss that is still slightly alive is suitable for caulking. Dried gray or brown building moss (item 5) is not caulk, but an insulating material. By the way, very good.

Note: It is impossible to caulk with rock and ground moss - particles of the substrate with germs of wood pests will certainly remain in it.

Procedure for caulking with moss

They caulk with moss before winter. In the spring, when it gets warm but not dry yet, the hanging festoons are checked (see below) and the green ones are plucked out. Then the scallops are tapped into the grooves. It is very important to prevent the caulk from drying out: if the moss begins to crumble under the caulking tool, the entire caulk will never be intact, and every 2-5 years you will have to re-caulk, and the entire log house will not stand as long as it can. A year later, the building is checked and, if it is split, a secondary caulk is carried out with the same (!) moss.

Sphagnum moss is laid out in the grooves when assembling the log house as a mountain (item 1 in the figure below), because It cakes heavily under pressure. The festoons of bog moss should hang abundantly from the grooves, pos. 2. Immediately after assembling the frame, moss is added to the remaining cracks (shown by arrows in position 2), tamping with a scythe on top wooden caulk. Quite easily reviving tree moss, on the contrary, is laid out sparingly but tightly so that there are no empty cracks, pos. 3. Its scallops should protrude from the grooves assembled log house approx. half the palm of your hand, but not hanging down, pos. 4. Hanging ones (shown by an arrow in position 4) are cut off.

Instead of moss

In coastal areas you can find durable log buildings, caulked instead of moss with damask - sea grass eelgrass or eelgrass thrown ashore by storms. Kamka also good insulation and in this capacity it is now sold dried, but caulk can only be done with damp, fresh stone. But caulking with damask turns out to be excellent: it releases salts into the tree, making it unsuitable for pests, and releases iodine into the air in the room. Which, as is known, among others beneficial properties, promotes the removal of cumulative poisons and radionuclides from the body. They caulk with damask like moss, with some differences: they take it apart into flat strands and lay them out in the grooves of the log house in a herringbone pattern without gaps so that the ends hang down half a log. Upon completion of the assembly of the log house, the ends are tapped into the grooves with wooden caulk.

Synthetics and sealants

Synthetic caulking is used in combination with rough jute tape, or, for “aesthetics,” with twisted white jute rope. The rough tape is placed in the grooves of the log house under caulking with sealants without wings, flush with the edges of the groove. If the logs have a Finnish groove, then the edges of the tape should lie exactly on the longitudinal cuts in the log under the edge protrusions of the groove of the upper log.

Sealants for wood are chemically neutral polyurethane: silicone is less compatible with wood in terms of mechanical and physico-chemical properties (in particular, in terms of the thermal expansion coefficient TCR), and is destroyed under the influence of even very weak acids. In turn, the silicone solvent - acetic acid - spoils the wood, so do not try to replace special sealants for wood with ordinary construction ones. Synthetics are used to caulk mainly log houses made of laminated logs and timber - their estimated service life is the same as that of glue joints of laminated lumber.

Caulking with sealants is done quickly and simply: the initial composition is squeezed out of the tube into the groove, pos. 1 in Fig.. When it has set, the seams are puttied on top with a finishing compound to match the wood, pos. 2.:

There is also an “ultra-modern” method of caulking log houses built without rough caulking at all: cuts are made along the seams, strands of self-expanding polyethylene foam are inserted into them and sealed with wood-like sealant, pos. 3. In essence, this is no longer caulking, because This method is suitable for buildings made of lumber without shaped grooves, assembled on dowels and impregnated with water repellents (water-repellent impregnations). In addition, it is only suitable for selected chamber-drying materials that are completely dried and settled. And then what will happen with warping from moisture during operation - we’ll wait and see: in practice, “caulk-free caulking” has so far been used for no more than 10-12 years.

Let's return to caulking, which is still caulking, albeit synthetic. Finishing compounds darken when dry, so they are selected to match the wood using test strokes on the container. But in the light, the finishing synthetic caulk fades and the walls of the log house take on the appearance shown in pos. 4. Some people, since such “decoration” cannot be avoided, order caulking seams to be glued or filled with white twisted cord. How much this adds “aesthetics and respect” to the building is a matter of taste of the owner. And there is no arguing about tastes. Moreover, about the tastes of people who believe that natural wood needs additional “improvement”.

It is much more practical to use synthetic caulk to seal gaping cracks in logs, pos. 5 in Fig. On top of the sealant, the cracks are filled with any wood putty for exterior use, and the entire structure is rejuvenated. The putty has to be renewed every 2-3 years - it also fades in the light - but this doesn’t last long, it’s not difficult and inexpensive.

The final touch - sanding

Caulking has not yet completed the construction of the log house until it is ready for flooring, installation attic floor, roofs, installation of windows, doors, partitions, for finishing and equipment - the log house is desirable, but the inside must be sanded. Especially - chopped from wild logs, debarked by hand.

Sanding a frame with sandpaper is extremely time-consuming, tedious, and this damages the outer most resistant layers of the wood. The log house is sanded manually using a universal grinder with nylon brushes. Worse - grinder with them; drive is too powerful. But the main thing here is still brushes for sanding wood, see video review:

Video: review of nylon brushes for sanding logs

Sanding a log frame with a brush is actually a controversial issue: the brush removes the bead of caulk, see figure..