Making beehives with your own hands, dimensions and drawings. DIY bee hive

Wild bees can find and equip a home for themselves in the first hollow they come across. Their cultivated counterparts are more demanding about their place of residence, so you will have to build a comfortable hive for them, in which they will not only live, but also work for your benefit. By spending a small amount on materials and a couple of days on work, you will get safe home, which will more than pay for itself in the first season.

Types of hives

You can’t just take a couple of boards and build a hive with your own hands without a drawing; after all, this is not a dog kennel. First you must decide on the type. There are only two of them, and they will become the basis for further modifications, so to speak, the basic models. We are talking about horizontal and vertical hives. The first is popularly called a sunbed, and the second is a riser. Both have pros and cons, so we can't say with certainty which design is better.

A vertical model can have two or three tiers, each of which can accommodate about ten frames. It is possible to increase capacity by installing additional stores or buildings.

dimensions of frame parts
stages of frame manufacturing fig. 1-4

The horizontal model is shaped like an elongated box. The initial volume can be increased using new housings that are mounted on the side.

We build a hive with our own hands according to drawings

Before starting construction, you need to think through everything to the smallest detail. Do not forget that bees are very delicate and demanding of their living conditions. They cannot tolerate drafts and sudden temperature changes, so their home must be well insulated. It is also worth considering the possibility of further expansion. Beekeeping is very exciting process, so you are unlikely to limit yourself to one hive.

The design of a bee house should provide its inhabitants with protection from heat in summer and from cold in winter. To achieve this, the possibility of additional insulation on the sides and ceiling must be provided.

drawing - do-it-yourself double-hull hive
drawing - typical beehive bed

blueprints
shop with frames

To build a hive with your own hands according to the drawings, you will need to purchase materials. First of all, these are, of course, boards. They must be well dried, and it is better if it is soft wood. The boards should not have knots or roughness, so they are sanded before starting work.

Basic sizes

We offer universal sizes that are suitable for hives of any type and design. They assume a distance between the mediastinums of adjacent frames of 37.5 mm, and passages for bees - 12.5 mm. When installing an additional housing, the distance between the lower strips and the socket frames should be 10 mm. The gap from the back and front walls to the frames is 7.5 mm, and between the bottom and the bottom bar of the nesting frame is 20 mm.

stages of making a hive rice (1-4)
stages of making a hive Fig. 5-8

stages of making a hive Fig. 9-14
manufacturing

The roof can be made of boards 20 mm wide or a double layer of plywood. An important part is the harness. Its size is 455x455 mm, and it is made from a board 15 mm wide. Along the perimeter of the trim, strips are attached, the purpose of which is to prevent the lid from sliding off. To protect against atmospheric phenomena All parts are coated with oil.

The bottom is made in the form of a simple frame. Its size is adjusted to the size of the hive. Some models have a removable bottom, but this design has poor sealing.

horizontal hive type
vertical type

The walls are made of boards whose width is 20 mm. In addition to nails, for greater strength it is advisable to connect them with tongues and grooves.

An important component The bee's house is the diaphragm. It separates the nest from the rest of the space. It uses 10 mm plywood, along the perimeter of which the sides are fixed. The diaphragm should be easy to remove and attach. A different wood is used for the frames. The ideal option would be birch or aspen. The approximate amount of material can be calculated using a do-it-yourself hive drawing.

As mentioned earlier, you are unlikely to limit yourself to one hive. Beekeeping is a very exciting activity, so you can make your own adjustments to the next model based on your personal experience.

The Dadan hive has stood the test of time - the design was invented at the end of the 19th century. Thoughtful design, simplicity and reliability made it popular among experienced beekeepers and beginners.

The American Frenchman Dadan mathematically calculated the dimensions of the hive in the 60s of the 19th century. Unfortunately, the work could not be completed. A few years later, another beekeeper, the Swiss Blatt, completed Dadan’s work and patented the work as the Dadan-Blatt hive.

Nowadays, the Dadanovsky hive is represented by several types of structures. The main differences are volume, material and thermal insulation.

The dimensions of the structure are a strategic issue. It is important to understand what is needed in specific conditions.

• 10 frame. Classic scheme Dadana.
• 12 frame. The square section allows the frames to be positioned differently (with warm or cold drift).
• 14 and 16 frame. It's harder to work alone. An increased number of frames creates a greater load on the structure.

Material

High-quality material will last longer and will not warp or rot. Do not use materials with a strong odor.

• Boards. Wood without knots and rot is suitable. Insufficiently dried wood will dry out over time and cracks will appear.
• and fiberboard Cheaper, easier to process, but less durable.
• . Light, warm, durable, do not allow sounds to pass through.
• . Lightweight, warm, do not allow sound to pass through and are less reliable.

Insulation

Depending on the temperature conditions, choose one of the types:

• Double wall. The walls are double; insulation (sawdust, moss, straw, polystyrene foam) is placed in the gap between the walls. Keeps you warm in unpredictable spring weather. Recommended in the middle and northern latitudes of Russia.
• Single wall. A lightweight option not designed for low temperatures.

What does it consist of?

Regardless of the dimensions and other features, the Dadan-Blatt hive consists of the following elements:

• Frame. Must correspond exactly to the drawing and have no distortions. All other parts of the structure are attached to it. The entrance is located in the hive body.
• Bottom. Usually made removable. The non-removable bottom is more airtight and rigid, but makes it more difficult to work with bees.
• Extension (store). Installed during the period of active honey collection. Using special techniques, the queen is not allowed to lay eggs in the store. In principle, 2 extensions mounted on top of each other can serve as a second body.
• Liner. Needed for ventilation and insulation of the hive.
• Roof. Most susceptible to weather influences. The roof is painted in 2-3 layers or sheathed with tin. Roofs can be single-pitched, gable and flat.
• Minor design details (tapholes, folds).

How to make a twelve-frame Dadan hive with your own hands

The dimensions and drawings of the twelve Dadan frame hives are given for the single-wall type, since the second walls are built on top of the internal ones and do not matter.

Preparing for work

With some skill, making a Dadan hive yourself is not difficult. There are several important points.

• Storing and processing wood in a dry place. Only dried wood is used.
• Study the drawings in advance and imagine the work order.
• Prepare tools and materials.

A job well done will last a long time. The lifespan of a manufactured hive depends on the material.

Operating procedure

• Blanks are cut from a 35 mm board according to the drawing. The joints are prepared and the folds are selected. The workpieces are polished.
• When assembling, wide boards are contrasted with narrow ones (if the front bottom board is wide, the bottom side boards are taken narrow).
• The joints are glued. PVA or carpenter's (casein) glue is used. It is important that the glue does not have a strong odor and is not toxic to bees.
• The ends of the connections are additionally reinforced with pins or self-tapping screws. Before further assembly, you need to let the glue dry.
• The upper tap hole is drilled, the lower tap hole is cut along the edge of the body.

During the manufacturing process of the bottom, extension and roof, it makes sense to periodically try them on in order to notice errors immediately.

• The removable bottom is made wider and assembled from quarter boards (or in another way with good tightness). Three strips are stuffed in such a way as to fit into the fold at the bottom of the body. Front side remains without a strip for ventilation. You can take boards thicker than 4 cm, this will make the bottom heavier, but make it stronger.
• The superstructure (store) is assembled similarly to the body. A fold is selected along the top edge of the superstructure.
• The roof is placed on the body or store. Over time, they change shape a little, so you need to make sure the roof fits not too tightly. There are holes for ventilation on the sides or in the front part. In order for the bees to be transported, the openings must be covered with a fine mesh.

Twelve frame hive size

Typical sizes of Dadan hive elements are 12 frames.

• The rebate depth is recommended 18 mm. This means that there is a space of 10 mm between the frame and the top cut.
• The depth of other folds is selected based on the thickness of the material.
• The gap between the bottom and the frames is left 25 mm, for cleaning and for the convenience of the bees.
• The upper tap hole with a diameter of 25 mm is drilled 70 mm from the top cut. An arrival board is installed under the entrance.
• The lower taphole is 10 mm high and is made almost the entire length of the wall; its length is adjusted with special liners.

Drawing of a twelve-frame hive Dadan

Assembly view of the Dadan hive. Option with two magazines and a roof liner.

Housing drawing

To assemble the case you will need two side and front walls. The top tap hole will need to be drilled in the front wall.

Side wall of the Dadan case for 12 frames

Front wall of the Dadan case for 12 frames

Store drawing

To assemble the store, you will also need two front and 2 side walls.

Side wall of Dadan store for 12 frames

Front wall of Dadan store for 12 frames

Linear drawing

If a roof liner is needed, it is also assembled similarly to the body and magazine, but has its own dimensions.

Dadan roof liner for 12 frames

Roof drawing

The drawing shows a horizontal roof. If you need a slope, you can raise one front wall by 20mm, and don’t forget about the side walls, whose maximum external size will increase to 100mm, and the minimum will remain 80mm. Also, the right side should be mirrored to the left.

After assembling the frame, you need to fix a sheet of plywood 540mm * 540mm on top or tie it with a 20mm board, provided that the roof is horizontal. Insulate the inside and cover the outside with a sheet of iron, roofing felt, linoleum or other material that does not allow moisture to pass through.

Roof Dadan for 12 frames

Bottom drawing

When making the bottom, we prepare two side walls (1), a back wall (2 without a tap hole) and a front wall (2) in which you need to make a 10mm tap hole in advance for the length of the tab you prepared. You also need to prepare the bottom (3) in advance from a 25mm board, measuring 470mm*470mm. Having connected the 2 side walls with the back, we insert the bottom, only then close it with the front wall. You can put a board under the tap hole.

Bottom Dadan for 12 frames

When making a Dadan hive from a 40mm board. internal dimensions do not change. The external size increases by 10mm, and the rebate depth changes by 21mm.

How to make a ten-frame Dadan hive with your own hands

The manufacturing scheme for the 10th frame Dadan hive is the same as for the 12th frame hive. You can use 35 mm boards (the load on the structure is now less). Takes up little space and is easier to work with.

Ten frame hive size

Compared to the 12 frame, only the length of the side walls and the corresponding dimensions of the roof and bottom change.

Drawing of a ten-frame hive Dadan

A ten-frame hive differs from a twelve-frame hive only in width.

Housing drawing

The side wall is similar to the 12 frame. And the front and back walls are smaller. You need to drill the upper tap hole in the front wall.

Side wall of the Dadan case for 10 frames

Front wall of the Dadan case for 10 frames

Store drawing

Just like for the case, only the dimensions of the front and rear walls change relative to the 12 frame structure.

Side wall of Dadan store for 10 frames

Dadan roof liner for 10 frames

Roof drawing

After assembling the frame, you need to fix a sheet of plywood 540mm * 470mm on top or tie it with a 20mm board, provided that the roof is horizontal. Insulate the inside and cover the outside with a sheet of iron, roofing felt, linoleum or other material that does not allow moisture to pass through.

Roof Dadan for 10 frames

Bottom drawing

When making the bottom, we prepare two side walls (1), a back wall (2 without a tap hole) and a front wall (2) in which you need to make a 10mm tap hole in advance for the length of the tab you prepared. You also need to prepare the bottom (3) in advance from a 25mm board, measuring 470mm*400mm. Having connected the 2 side walls with the back, we insert the bottom, only then close it with the front wall. You can put a board under the tap hole.

Dadan frame drawing

The Dadan-Blatt hive is reliable for mid-latitudes. The standard 12 frame design is easy to manufacture. Using quality material and by following technology you can count on long term hive services.

Honey can quite rightly be called the “nectar of life”, since there are alternatives to the complex of its components, and along with excellent taste qualities- simply not. A hive is a kind of “production line” building for such a precious product, which has a certain design that corresponds to the rules of life and activity of its inhabitants. Therefore, when planning to make a hive with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account the way of life of bees and the uniqueness of their hierarchy.

The correct structure of bee “houses” should include all the nuances related to ensuring comfortable life and the work of these unique insects, and in this regard, it is extremely important to have an idea of ​​how their life processes proceed. Having such information, it will be easier to understand what is intended for what in the simple design of hives.

The inhabitants of the hive and its basic structure

A few words about the organization of the bee society

Even from a school biology course, many remember that bee society has a unique organization, a clearly structured hierarchy, in which each bee performs a specific function and has a corresponding habitat in the hive.

• Thus, the job of young worker bees is to feed the young, since they have better developed maxillary glands that produce royal jelly than representatives of other hierarchies.
• Moving to average age, the worker becomes a nurse who monitors the cleanliness of the hive.
• Older bees are required to build honeycombs, since their wax glands are more active.
• Bees that have reached an older age usually take care of the security and ventilation of the hive.
• Old individuals, as a rule, are engaged in collecting honey - they are called collectors or flying bees.
• Drones serve only to fertilize queen bees. There are no other significant functions in their hive, but the family cannot live without drone breeding. However, towards the end of the season, the bees stop allowing drones into the hive, and they, completely defenseless and helpless, die.

In each of the hives summer period, during the peak season, there can be up to 40 thousand individuals.

Basic hive structure

The “bee house” consists of several parts - the body, the magazine, the roof liner and the components. In each section of the hive, various life processes of the family take place, and different divisions of bees live.

This illustration shows a diagram of a simple hive with one nesting compartment. It consists of the following main parts:

1 – Nest building.

2 – Frame.

3 – Aperture.

4 – Store add-on.

5 – Magazine frame.

6 – Liner.

7 – Roof.

8 – Bottom.

9 – Bottom gate valve.

10 – Upper taphole valve.

Hive prices

beehive for bees

• Frame- This is the main part of the hive, used by all bees throughout the year. The queen bee is constantly located in this section and lays eggs in the constructed honeycombs. IN summer time, when the most active activity of bees occurs, the honeycombs are filled with bee brood, beebread and honey.

The body in most types of hives is located in the lower part. It must be well protected from cold and heat, so its walls are made using insulating material. Vellit is most often used as insulation - this is a thermal insulation board made of paper impregnated with bitumen, but sometimes linen mats or even polystyrene foam are used.

The housing contains nesting frames, their number can vary, usually from 9 to 16 pieces, depending on the size and type of the hive. The frames are included in the kit of removable parts.

The case has a bottom, which in some models is removable. The frames are suspended and must be removed from the bottom by at least 20÷25 mm, thus forming an under-frame space that is necessary for cleaning the hive before the spring cleansing flight of bees.

To make this process easier, some beekeepers increase the sub-frame space to 40÷60 mm. In such a more spacious “room” under the frames, it is convenient to place a container with food for bees for the winter. In addition, it works as a steam-air valve, in the absence of which there will be a decrease in the activity of the swarming state of the bee colony, because flying bees will not sit on the honeycombs with brood.

The distance between the side parts of the frames and the walls of the body is called the inter-frame fishing rod, and it should be at least 6 mm, since after building the honeycombs the bees move from one honeycomb to another through it. More space between the frames, which is more than 10 mm, the bees will seal with wax, and the smaller one, already 4 mm, will be sealed with propolis.

A tap hole is cut in the front part of the body. As a rule, it is made at the bottom, since the hole made at the top removes about a third of the heat, and to preserve heat, most often only one taphole is made. This hole should be small, but fully ensure the free flight and return of the bees back to the hive. In some designs, two tapholes are arranged - upper and lower. The first of them opens in spring and summer, during the main honey harvest, and closes for the winter. In this case, the lower entrance is made small and is opened slightly in the winter to provide air access. So, for each frame with honeycombs it is necessary to leave approximately 10 mm² of an open taphole.

In addition, the openness of the entrance can be adjusted using a bushing, if it is provided in the hive design. So, for wintering bees on eight honeycombs, the entrance must be at least 100 mm long and 8 mm high. During the summer harvest, the sleeve is sometimes completely removed and the tap hole is opened to its full width. The entrance ends with a “corridor”, which is closed using a folding valve secured to the front wall of the housing with a rotating hinge. The valve must have three open positions: in summer it opens completely, in winter it is left half-open, and during the period of bee migration it tightly closes the passage.

In some models of hives, a window is made in the back wall of the body, through which feeders, wax frames, etc. are installed inside. For the winter, this hole is closed with insulating material. It is preferable to choose a felt mat for this purpose.

• Magazine extension or simply a store - this is a section of the hive located above the body. The bees store honey in it during the bribe period. The magazine is usually manufactured with the same linear parameters as the body, and it houses the same number of honeycomb frames. The extension must be warm, so it is thermally insulated along with the body, or double walls are made for it.

This compartment of the hive is also used for overwintering the prefabricated layer. However, it should be noted that in some models the store is not arranged at all.

• Liner (roof panel)– this part of the structure is designed to cover the store or nesting body, protect it from rainwater and at the same time create an attic-type air space that helps maintain optimal temperature in the hive. However, quite often the roof liner replaces the roof itself, and can have different shapes. In this case, its external surface is covered with a thin steel sheet.

If the roof liner is used as a pitched roof, then it is secured to the wall of the front part of the hive using hinges, and on the rear wall it must be tightly fixed to the magazine section or to the body.

• Hive components. This set of parts includes frames, their dividers, a diaphragm, a roofing felt subframe, ceilings, a dividing grid, insulation materials, a ventilation frame, folding hinges and a connecting tape.

Framework for the body and magazine are made of natural wood. Their thickness most often ranges from 10 to 40 mm. To simplify the work of bees in creating honeycombs, sometimes stainless wire is stretched over the frames, which can be replaced with thick fishing line. Frames may have different shapes depending on the design and type of hive. So, they distinguish:

- low-wide frames, having a height less than their width;

- narrow-high - their width is always less than their height;

- square frames.

However, in all frames the top crossbar has equally protruding edges - folds. It is on these protrusions that the frames will be held in the hive, resting them on the slats mounted on the walls of the body or magazine.

Constant delimiters– these parts are necessary to ensure a certain distance between the frames. These elements can be point or linear. Point ones fasten adjacent frames at the required distance at only one point, and linear ones along the bottom bar. In addition to them, there are flat and profile side dividers.

In the illustration above, profile dividers are clearly visible - these are extensions of the side slats in the upper part, which prevent the honeycombs created by bees inside the frame from coming into contact. This extension is also often called a shoulder, and its length is about 100 mm.

Diaphragm(insert board) is designed to limit the bee nest. It is a board or fiber board equal in width to height internal size housings. It is located inside, dividing the hive into two parts. It is often used when two bee colonies are separated in one hive.

Ruberoid subframe- this is a sheet of roofing felt with the smell completely eroded from it and treated with a special compound, the length and width corresponding to the dimensions of the bottom of the case. It is inserted into the hive through the entrance hole during the replenishment of the hive with food reserves for the winter. During the winter, crumbs of wax, crumbs from honeycombs and dead wood accumulate on the leaf. Based on the spring contents of the stretcher, experienced beekeepers determine the quality of the bee colony's wintering. The subframe is removed from the hive at the end of winter and stored under certain conditions until the end of the season.

Dividing grid is installed between the body and the magazine so that the queen bee cannot move from one part of the hive to another. The grille can be wire or stamped plastic. The width of the openings of the grid cells should be 4.2 mm, so that worker bees can freely pass through them, and the larger queen bees and drones remain in the main nesting section of the body.

Ventilation frame represents lightweight design from wooden slats, onto which a metal mesh with 3x3 mm cells is stretched. A ventilation frame is placed instead of a roof cover in the upper part of the hive, but sometimes a ventilation window is made in the roof cover itself. It is especially important to arrange high-quality ventilation when transporting hives to a new honey collection site.

Folding hinges are designed in the hive design to connect the nesting body with the magazine extension. The loops are fixed in the corners on the front wall of the hive, between the nesting body and the magazine. The hinges allow you to either fold back or remove the magazine completely, opening the interior of the socket housing. In some models, the body and magazine are connected using retractable brackets.

Connection tape is installed along the line of joining of the socket body and the magazine extension and liner, and serves to securely connect them. It is usually made of steel strip 25 mm wide and 2 mm thick. Not used in all hive models.

Now, having examined the main design details, it is worth moving on to information about the types of hives.

Popular types of hives

First of all, it must be said that hives are divided into collapsible and non-collapsible, but the latter have not been used by beekeepers for quite some time, since they are extremely inconvenient to work with. In addition, bee houses vary in design, volume, materials and functionality. One section of the hive can usually accommodate up to 16 frames, on which the bee colony builds combs intended for raising brood and storing honey.

Modern frame hives come in vertical and horizontal varieties. The latter have only one housing, which can be expanded in both directions, thanks to this, if necessary, you can change the number of frames. However, the frames for such a design are quite large and heavy.

The vertical version of the hives is enlarged due to add-ons, while the frames are compact and lightweight.

In addition, there are combined options, combining the design of vertical and horizontal hives. These models have several sections separated from each other by partitions, which can be moved to one side or the other, due to which additional frames can be installed in the body.

Bee houses are also divided according to their functional use. Thus, some hives are used exclusively for wintering bee colonies.

A very large number of different types of hives have been developed. Some have a unique design, others were designed according to a similar type, in different countries ah, but completely independent of each other, and have different names.

Alpine hive

This type of hive was invented by beekeeper Roger Delon. The design is a multi-body vertical “pyramid”, reminiscent of a multi-story building. This variety appeared as a result of many years of observations of the life and habits of insects, so the beekeeper tried to recreate the natural living conditions of bees in nature as much as possible. Due to the fact that the nesting bodies in this hive are located one above the other, the structure has compact dimensions at the base. In the buildings of the Alpine hive there are no partitions, ventilation gaps or grilles, since the supply of fresh air and the removal of used air is carried out using natural circulation, through a notch, which is arranged in the lower part of the overall structure.

To prevent excess moisture from collecting in the hive and condensation forming, a feeder or ceiling is provided in the upper part of the structure, which creates an air cushion. The cover located on top of the hive, equipped with a layer of insulating material, reliably protects it from overheating in bright sunshine.

Alpine hive frames have distinctive feature in that they do not have a bottom and side strip, but instead a wire frame is made. And to place the artificial foundation, a slot is cut in the top bar of the frame.

It takes a lot of money to build such a hive. less material, and a thick layer of insulation for the walls is not required at all, since for wintering Delon hives are covered with a plastic bag.

As you can see from the illustrations, the Alpine hive consists of several buildings stacked on top of each other. All cases, except the bottom one, do not have a bottom, but combs or slats are fixed to their walls, between which frames are then installed.

Each compartment of the general body can be designed for 3–8 frames, depending on the number of individuals in the bee colony.

The bottom part of the structure is made of boards 30 mm thick. Inner surface bottom, before installing it, experienced beekeepers recommend soaking it in linseed oil. The outside of the bottom must be coated with paint containing aluminum.

In the uppermost section of the body, under the roof, a feeder-drinker for bees is placed, which is filled with sweet syrup. The feeder is a tray divided into two parts by a partition; in each of its sections there are protrusions - the so-called “volcanoes”, which are covered with plastic cups.

You can make your own feeder or buy it ready-made.

Hive Dadan - Blatt

This hive has a fairly simple design, so it is very popular among beekeepers. The body of the Dadan hive is usually designed for 12 frames, but it is possible to increase the height of the body by installing store add-ons on top, into which half-frames are installed.

Prices for drinking bowls for bees

drinking bowl for bees

Instead of store add-ons, an additional full-fledged case with standard frames can be installed on top of the lower case. In winter, all the bees are in the nesting building, and in the spring, when the bee colony begins to grow, the required number of superstructures is installed.

All parts of the hive are made removable, but secured with hinged locks.

At the top of the structure, under the roof, there should also be a place for installing a feeder.

Langstroth Hive

This design is also often called “Rue”, and it allows you to contain several families of bees, which simplifies their care. Such a model can consist of several cases - usually there are from two to six, and each of them contains 10 ÷ 12 frames. Housings are added as the bee colony grows, so at first the hive usually consists of two housings or a housing and a magazine.

The Ruta hive consists of the following structural elements:

- stands or legs;

- bottom with equipped lower entrance;

— nesting building (bee club);

— dividing grid;

— shops;

- ceiling;

— liner;

- covers.

Additional socket housings are installed on the lower housing, that is, the separating grid will be on top of them.

Nest or brood bodies are made from whole, that is, without cracks, well-planed boards 35 mm thick, well planed to smoothness. Soft wood species are suitable for making walls - it can be pine, spruce, aspen, linden and others, but it is better to choose a non-resinous, deciduous tree. You should not choose larch for this purpose, since it contains a lot of resins, and in addition, when drying out, this wood gives numerous cracks and begins to warp.

The walls of the housing are connected to each other with self-tapping screws additional use waterproof glue applied into a straight tenon - such a connection will be strong and will eliminate any distortions. A ventilation hole must be drilled in each housing - its diameter and location are clearly visible in the drawing.

The internal size of the case is 450×375 mm, its height is 245÷250 mm. During manufacturing, 10 mm is added to all parts that form the height, since wood shrinks over time. The outer size is 520x445 mm, and the height of the hive depends on the number of buildings and magazines.

The case shown in the illustration is designed for 10 frames measuring 435x230 mm. They are best made from birch, linden or aspen, but it is not advisable to use coniferous wood. The exact size of the frames along the width of the side walls is indicated in the diagram drawing.

Handles are attached to the sides of the bodies, or recesses measuring 30x90 mm are made for easy transportation of the hives.

The ceiling panel is made of boards 20 mm thick and has a size of 468x395 mm.

A feeder is placed above the ceiling plank panel, between it and the roof, inside the roof space. The structure is covered on top with a roof made of 25 mm thick boards, on which aluminum or steel sheets are laid. Some beekeepers equip the roof with a layer of insulation - a reasonable measure that prevents the nest boxes from overheating or overcooling.

On the outside, all surfaces of the hive need to be impregnated with drying oil and painted - this way the wood will be less susceptible to external aggressive influences of ultraviolet radiation and moisture, and the hive will last much longer.

The photographs below clearly show the design of the various sections of the hive. Some of them differ from the drawing shown above, but beekeepers often prefer their own design for this structure, taking into account their own experience of caring for them.

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edged board

So, for example, in the diagram the bottom surface is located at an angle, with a slope towards the landing board, but in the illustration the bottom of the hive is flat.

All structural elements must fit tightly to each other, therefore, during manufacturing, fitting of parts must occur constantly.

It is best to make the roof pitched and cover it with aluminum or steel sheets. The slope will protect the hive from rainwater getting into it, and unpainted galvanized steel or aluminum will effectively reflect the sun's rays, preventing overheating.

Hives used in apiaries in regions with cold winter climates are made double-walled with internal insulation. In this case, the total wall thickness will be 40÷50 mm

Prices for aluminum sheets

Aluminum sheet

Experienced beekeepers recommend increasing the space under the frame to 90÷120 mm, as this makes the wintering conditions for bees more comfortable. If this size of the sub-frame space was not provided for in advance, then the nest housing can be installed on an empty magazine extension. In addition, this size of the sub-frame space helps to avoid the appearance and development of wax moths.

To prevent bees from entering the space under the frame, it is covered with a metal mesh with a cell size of 4.4 mm, which is framed at the edges with wooden or metal strips.

The frames must be raised above the bottom surface by 150÷200 mm.

A retractable tray is installed in the bottom block of the hive, having sides 40÷50 mm high, into which a roofing felt subframe can be laid.

This tray can also be used during the treatment of bees for varroatosis. Finely chopped healing herbs– Faded tansy is mainly used for this purpose.

Cassette hive

The design of a cassette hive differs from other models in that the nesting bodies are made in the form of drawers installed in a common body with bars attached to its side walls - runners, on which the cassette bodies will run. A distance of 10 mm should be maintained between the frames installed in the housings - this ensures unhindered extension of the housings, as well as the ability to separate one part of the hive from the main space with gratings or plywood partitions - removable tables installed horizontally.

The cassette design is somewhat more difficult to manufacture and will require more material. But at the same time, it is more convenient to transport, which is why these hives are made for outdoor apiaries.

In addition, the cassette design allows you to contain several families in one hive at once, separating them from each other with plywood jumpers.

Considering that each cassette has its own walls, and it is installed in a common body, the hive turns out to be double-walled. In addition, the main body must be assembled from boards 35 mm thick or from two layers of moisture-resistant plywood with insulation installed between them.

To increase the resistance of wood to external factors, it is recommended to impregnate all structural parts with liquid wax.

In this design, tap holes are provided on each retractable body. Thus, their central holes usually have a diameter of 25÷30 mm, and the slots are 200 mm long and 10 mm high. If it is planned to make a common door for the hive, then holes for the entrances are made in it, opposite the gaps between the cassettes. An arrival strip is fixed under each of the holes.

Anti-tick nets should be provided at the top and bottom of the common body. The entire hive is protected from rain by a pitched roof, under which there are ventilation slots.

The illustration below shows a drawing of one of the cassette hive options, with dimensions indicated.

1 – roof, in which ventilation slots are provided;

2 – upper anti-tick mesh;

3 – arrival slats;

4 – central round tapholes;

5 – slot-shaped taphole;

6 – pull-out tray with anti-mite mesh;

7 – legs or support posts;

8 – retractable cassette body;

9 - removable table - brackets that can be adjusted in height. Provide the necessary level of convenience when working with the cassette pulled out.

10 — honeycomb frames;

11 – slides for pulling out cassettes;

12 — doors;

13 — hooks for fixing door leaves.

Beehive lounger

This version of a house for bees is quite large in size and, unlike other structures, is located not vertically, but horizontally. It is a box divided into two parts, each of which houses a separate family of bees with its own queen. The advantage of this design is that caring for bees is simplified and requires less effort and time from the beekeeper.

Some beekeepers equip the structure with a magazine, installing it on top of the nesting compartments or between them.

The bottom of this hive model is made of a 40 mm thick board, the walls are 25 mm thick. The size of the hive bottom is 580x385 mm, the roof is 600x405 mm. The height of the finished building is 315 mm, the roof space is 590x395 mm, the height is 80 mm.

1 – feeders and drinking bowls for bees;

2 – honeycomb frames;

3 – covers covering the hive compartments;

4 – handles for rearranging the hive;

5 – general roof of the hive;

6 – hive body;

7 – gate valves;

8 – internal partitions, dividing the general space of the hive into separate sections.

The hive parts are connected using self-tapping screws. Hinges are usually used to secure the roof to the body so that it can be folded back. In the internal space on the side walls, in the upper part of the compartment, a recess of 12÷15 mm, 18÷20 mm high, is made for installing frames.

Prices for a hive made of polyurethane foam

hive made of polyurethane foam

In the lower part of the structure, on the front wall, a taphole is arranged for each of the departments.

The lounger can be designed for one bee colony. It can be made according to the diagram below, which probably does not even require additional description.

There are a considerable number of other hive designs. The most popular and most affordable to manufacture were discussed above.

Building a simple hive with a gable roof

The hive, the construction of which will be discussed in this section, can be made by any beekeeper himself, having at hand the necessary material, carpentry tools and basic skills in working with them.

As mentioned above, the first thing that is required to make a hive, in addition to materials and tools, is a detailed drawing of the future product with a description of the elements and their sizes. The dimensions of this hive are 1300x600x600 mm, with the height measured from the ridge of the roof.

To build the structure, you will need to prepare the following parts made of wood and metal:

1 – Vertical housing posts – 4 pcs. – 486×32×18 mm.

2 – Vertical stands of the magazine extension – 4 pcs. – 154×32×18 mm.

3 – Longitudinal bars of the bottom part of the nesting body – 2 pcs. – 424×32×18 mm.

4 – Cross bars for the socket body, magazine extension, bottom and liner – 10 pcs. – 600×32×18 mm.

5 – Longitudinal bars for the nest body, magazine extension, bottom and liner – 12 pcs. – 564×32×18 mm.

6 – Cross bars for the bottom part of the nest body – 2 pcs. – 564×32×18 mm.

7 – Roof ridge beam – 1 pc. – 564×32×18 mm.

8 – Roof rafters – 2 pcs. – 392×32×18 mm (in the lower part the bars are cut at an angle of 45 degrees).

9 – Roof rafter legs – 2 pcs. – 424×32×18 mm (in the lower part the bars are also cut at an angle of 45 degrees).

10 – Footrests – 4 pcs. – steel plates 80×80×3 mm.

11 – Support legs – 4 pcs. – steel corner 500×50×50×3 mm.

12 – Covering of ridge beams – 1 pc. – aluminum corner 680×50×50×3 mm.

13 – Cladding board (in this case shown unedged) 6÷8 mm thick.

14 – Landing (arrival) board – 1 pc. – 460×70×6 mm.

15 – Plywood panel with ventilation holes – 1 pc. – 460×460×12 mm.

For the manufacture of the above structural parts, as well as for its insulation, the following materials will be required:

• Plywood 10÷12 mm thick.
• Beam with a section of 32×18 mm – 20 linear meters.
• Unedged board or wooden lining 6÷8 mm thick. Its quantity will depend on the width of the selected material.
• Nails 50 mm long.
• Screws 25 mm long.
• Steel angle 2000 mm long and aluminum angle 700 mm long (50×50×3 mm).
• Steel plates 4 pcs. (80×80×3 mm).
• Roofing covering. For this purpose, the same board can be used as for wall cladding, or a steel sheet with a thickness of 1÷1.5 mm and a size of 600×1000 mm.
• Folding hinges – 4 pcs.
• Window hinges – 50×30 mm – 2 pcs.
• Linen insulation material.
• Linseed oil for wood impregnation.
• Wood paint will be needed if you decide to paint the outside of the hive.

To build this hive model you will need the following tools:

• for welding footrests to legs. If it is not there, then you can contact a car repair shop or any welder who will do this work in literally ten minutes.
• Electric drill with a set of drills.
• with a set of screwdriver bits.
• Electric jigsaw or wood saw.
• "Grinder" for cutting metal. It will only be required if the metal legs will be made independently.
• A tape measure, a square and a simple pencil - for marking.
• Hammer.
• Paint brush.

Having prepared everything you need, you can start working. The entire manufacturing process of this hive model will be presented in the table below:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first step is to prepare the parts for the hive frame. To do this, the purchased timber is planed (if necessary), soaked in linseed oil and marked according to the dimensions indicated above. Then, the beams are cut into blanks, which are best signed immediately. The work is carried out using an electric jigsaw or a regular wood saw. More accurate cuts are obtained when working with a jigsaw. To save time when assembling the frame, it is recommended to not only number the timber blanks, marking the length on them, but also sort them, laying them out in separate piles.
	To prevent the beam from cracking when hammering nails, it is recommended to hammer them in at an angle. It would be even better to drill a hole in the timber, the diameter of which is 1÷1.5 mm less than the thickness of the nail leg, and only after that carry out the assembly. The hole is also drilled at an angle of about 30 degrees, using a screwdriver into which a drill of the required diameter is installed.
	The wooden frame of the hive is assembled in a certain order. You need to start by making the lowest frame. To prevent misalignment of the corners, the timber is laid out along a construction square before fastening. Each side is fastened with two nails or self-tapping screws; they are driven or screwed through the longer beam into the end of the short one. The upper frame of the nest body is assembled in the same way. Now they need to be connected with vertical corner bars. They are nailed by placing the nails at an angle first to the bottom frame. Next, the upper frame of the housing is installed and secured to their upper end edges. This way the structure will acquire relative rigidity, allowing further work to be carried out. Now, according to the drawing, a distance of 182 mm is measured from the lower frame, and at this level, horizontal bars are installed and nailed on the front and back sides of the frame between the vertical posts. Their top edge should coincide with the top of the steel corner of the legs. The next step is to lay 52 mm from the edges of the newly fixed timber, and bars No. 6 are nailed perpendicular to them, horizontally, along the walls of the hive. Between them and the vertical posts, a space is formed into which the corner legs should fit freely. These bars will serve as a support for the ventilation grille and the internal corridor leading from the entrance. Next, on these bars, also from the edges, 50 mm are measured, and short bars are fixed perpendicular to them (in the diagram they go under No. 3). The next step is to assemble the magazine extension. Installation is carried out according to approximately the same scheme - first the lower and upper frames are assembled, and then they are fastened together with vertical posts. After this, they move on to fastening the roof elements. First, the lower frame is assembled, then the rafter elements roofs installed at an angle. Then, the latter are connected to each other by a ridge beam.
	The next step is preparing the legs of the hive. To do this, the steel angle is marked and cut into pieces 500 mm long. Then the location of the holes is marked through which the legs will be attached to the beam of the wooden frame. The first two holes should be 20 mm from the top edge of the corner, the second at a distance of 180 mm from its top edge, and their diameter is 5 mm. Next, prepared steel plates are taken and welded to the side of the legs opposite to the drilled holes. It should be noted that some beekeepers prefer to make the entire hive from wood, including the legs of the structure. However, in this case, the wooden legs will need to be very carefully treated with protective solutions, since it is recommended that the stand be slightly deeper into the ground to ensure the stability of the hive.
	The finished legs are pressed to the bottom vertical racks frame and screwed to it with self-tapping screws through drilled holes. The distance from the footrest to the bottom wooden beam of the frame should be 300 mm. When the structure is fully assembled, you can think about fixing it on the inside bottom side the timber of the upper frame of the magazine extension and the nesting body of the protruding stops on which the frames will be installed. The width of the slats can be 8÷9 mm; they are fixed along the entire length of the side bars of the frame. In addition, folding hinges are attached to one of the sides of the hive on the roof frame and the upper frame of the magazine, as well as the lower frame of the magazine and the upper nesting body. Thus, the beekeeper can easily remove frames with honeycombs from inside the hive.
	Now you need to sheathe facing material front side of the nesting body. In this case, for cladding the frame we chose wooden boards, pre-treated with linseed oil. They are mounted according to the principle of traditional siding, that is, at an angle to the frame beam, so that each top board rests on the bottom.
	The next step is to cut a rectangular hole with a size of 460×70 mm in the fixed casing of the lower part of the hive. The cut part of the boards is saved, as it will be used to create a hinged door for the newly cut entrance opening.
	Now, under the cut-out window, a small board is fixed, which will serve as a stand for the hinged entrance door, which, when opened, turns into a landing area.
	The next step is to fasten the previously cut part of the casing to the hinges that are installed underneath it, so that it folds outward. When opened, the landing board should look as shown in the illustration. To hold the door in a closed position, a plate or metal strip is secured above the cut hole using a self-tapping screw; it should rotate freely on the self-tapping screw, thus becoming a simple latch.
	After this, from the inside of the tap hole to the frame beam, the corridor board is fixed. The photo shows a part of the frame located at the level of the tap hole, onto which the boards or plywood of the bottom will be attached. Next, the floors need to be insulated. To do this, the nesting body is turned over, and linen mats are laid underneath on the floor boards, then they are covered with waterproofing material, and the outer plane of the bottom is sheathed with plywood. Before the outer lining of the remaining sections of the hive is carried out, they are lined with plywood from the inside, then linen mats are installed on the outside of the plywood in the frame frames. The insulation is covered with a windproof waterproofing film on top.
	It would probably be useful to remind you that each of the sections of the hive is sheathed separately so that they can be opened. The sheathing is secured to the frame using self-tapping screws. The roof can also be covered using the same board as on the walls, or with galvanized steel sheet. However, in the latter case, you will have to add two or three rafters to the slopes of the structure, then sheathe the roof surfaces with plywood, and only after that lay a metal covering. The second roofing option is more reliable, since the risk of leakage is eliminated. If it is decided to use a board to cover the roof, then its fastening begins from the eaves of the roof and is carried out sequentially to the ridge. Each of the subsequent boards is mounted overlapping the previous one, and so on until the ridge board. Having finished fixing the covering, an aluminum corner is fixed to the roof ridge. The plywood panel with ventilation holes is installed in the under-roof space last. If necessary, feeders with sweet syrup are installed on it, as well as on the bottom of the hive. In addition, a dividing grid is installed between the magazine extension and the nesting body during operation of the hive.

Frames for the hive are made separately, and for this it is necessary to take measurements from the internal space of the nesting and magazine housings. At what distance they should be installed, and what needs to be provided to maintain the distance between them and around them - all this is discussed in detail above, in the description of each of the sections of the hive.

By the way, you can also add that the external lining can be done as before installing the hive on permanent place, and after digging the stands into the ground.

To supplement the information posted in the publication and learn more about the advantages and possible disadvantages of various types of hives, watch a video in which an experienced beekeeper shares his secrets.

Video: Which hive model is preferable to choose?

Beekeeping is the most important industry Agriculture different countries. The importance of beekeeping is determined not only by the most valuable products obtained from the apiary, but also by the role of honey bees in cross pollination plants and, as a result, increasing the yield of various crops.

The work of a beekeeper is hard work, requiring year-round attention and care from the beekeeper. First of all, high-quality hives for bees are important, which must meet certain criteria. When choosing a house, the climatic and honey collection conditions of the region are taken into account, but there are a number of conditions that any of them must meet. So, what types are there, how to assemble beehives for bees with your own hands and how to properly place them in the apiary - you will find all this in our article.

General requirements for bee houses

Regardless of the design, each bee hive (a house where one or more families live) must meet fairly stringent conditions:

• dryness at any time of the year and with any amount of precipitation;
• high-quality thermal insulation, due to which a comfortable temperature is maintained inside in winter;
• good ventilation;
• space and potential for expansion as the family grows;
• relatively low weight of the structure;
• quality of finishing - a wooden house, painted and puttied, lasts at least 15 years.

A bee house of any design must also meet certain dimensions:

• between the wall and the side bars of the frames - at least 8 mm;
• between the central parts of nearby frames - 38 mm;
• frame thickness - 25 mm.

As practice shows, it is more convenient to use hives with magazine extensions in apiaries - they are lighter than nesting bodies.

Wooden parts that are used to make hives are prepared from aspen, linden or pine. Maximum humidity - 15%. There should be no cracks or fallen knots. If this is found, the holes are filled with putty.

Gaps in the houses are unacceptable - heat will escape through them and, accordingly, honey consumption will increase. To replace energy, the family will have to take in more food.

Since you need to build a hive accurately and correctly, this will allow you to combine their individual parts with each other. If we are talking about how to build a hive for bees with your own hands, then the walls of the housings are assembled from 2-3 boards using the tongue-and-groove method and additionally glued with waterproof, non-toxic glue.

The outer side is treated with drying oil and painted in 2 layers of blue, yellow or white paint. The roof is made of stainless steel sheet.

Design (components) of beehives for a bee colony

Since making a beehive for bees yourself is quite troublesome, let’s decide on its main components:

• frame;
• store extensions;
• liner;
• ceiling boards;
• roof;
• arrival board;
• insert board (diaphragm);
• nesting/magazine frames.

The magazine frame is easier to free from honeycombs; it is easier to print honeycombs in them and, accordingly, pump out honey.

• Frame

Externally, it is a box made of boards. Depending on the size and type of the hive, where there are more than 10 nesting frames or about 20 store frames, since they are smaller in size. The latter are secured by the shoulders on the rebate.

An entrance is made on the front side through which insects get inside. In some buildings there are 2 entrances - upper and lower, in others - one at a time, in still others (multi-hulls) there are also several, each of which serves for a specific family.

Knocked together from 3-4 boards or one flat one. Can be retractable or stationary. A protrusion is made so that the hinges for the flight can be screwed on.

Loops are used for fixation so that this board can be removed at any time. Remove it for the winter to prevent rodents from getting inside, or when moving for convenience. Bees need it for flight and landing.

• Magazine extension

A ready-made sample that is needed to artificially increase a bee colony. As a rule, standard frames are smaller than nested frames, but the same in width and height. If the evidence for bees is of a standard size, the store frames fully correspond to them.

Used to fix the ceiling insulation, resulting in a warm beehive. It can also be used to separate a family in order to form a layer with a fetal uterus.

• Ceiling

The ceiling strapping is a block as thick as the body. The bottom of the board is 20mm. Then the reflective insulation. Then - 20mm foam

A standard part, which is assembled from individual planks or made from solid wood. The temperature inside depends on the thickness and integrity.

• Roof

Beehives need protection from rain and snow, wind and debris. It can be different in shape - single- or multi-slope, sloping, acute-angled, etc.

For high-quality ventilation, ventilation holes or small slits are made in the sidewalls through which air will flow.

Used to reduce space inside the house for various purposes. So, during a sharp cold snap, you can put insulation behind such boards (polyurethane foam, moss, etc.). In a multi-body hive, the insert board is usually smaller than that of the bed and other samples.

The diaphragm shield is made from a board 45x32 cm, length - 47.2 cm, width - 2 cm. It is assembled from boards 1.4 cm thick, which are assembled by ¼.

For the tightest possible fit, the ends are covered with a rubber seal, usually used to insulate entrance doors.

Required for the formation of honeycombs by workers. Consists of the following elements:

• top and bottom strips (hangers are made on the top for fixing on the fold);
• 2 dividing bars.

The standard size is 43.5x30 cm. In a lounger - 30x43.5 cm, in a multi-body, on the contrary, 43.5x30 cm.

The sizes of the frames differ depending on the type of hive:

• in a lounger - 30x43.5 cm;
• multi-body - 43.5x23 cm.

To assemble the frames, use standard nails 3 cm Ø 1.4 mm.

• Sectional frame

It is used to obtain honey in small quantities, for which purpose it is divided into sections measuring 11x11 cm. Such sectional frames are made from wood chips 45x35x0.2 cm, after which they are placed in stores. On average, 380-400 grams of honey are removed from one section.

Types of cases

In total, the following types are distinguished:

• multi-hull;
• double-body for 24 frames;
• single-case with two stores;
• sun lounger for 20 frames;
• lounger with 16 nesting frames;
• bed for 16 magazine frames.

In this article we will tell you how to make beehives for 20 frames and multi-frame hives. These are the most popular types that can be found in most apiaries in Russia. Let us immediately note that the sizes of the hives are standard.

Multi-body (TP No. 808 5 1)

It consists of 4 buildings, each of which can accommodate 10 nesting frames measuring 43.5x23 cm. This is a prototype of a stationary and nomadic modern beehive.

What you will need for construction:

• boards - 0.3 cubic meters;
• galvanized - 2 kg;
• investment steel - 0.2 kg;
• galvanized mesh - 0.2 sq.m.;
• nails - 1.5 kg;
• galvanized nails - 0.1 kg;
• screws - 10-12 pcs.;
• loops for the arrival board - 10 pcs.;
• wooden insert for the taphole - 4 pcs.;
• holder for ventilation frames - 2 pcs.;
• drying oil - 0.5 l;
• whitewash - 0.3 l;
• paints - 0.3 l.

1. The box is assembled from boards 3.5 cm thick. The internal dimensions of the house are 45x37.5x25 cm. The walls can be made of solid wood or assembled from several boards, but they must be glued with non-toxic waterproof glue to avoid cracks and holes.

For nomadic houses, folds of 1.8 x 0.5 cm are hollowed out on the walls at the top and bottom in order to insert one into the other during transportation.

1. Folds are hollowed out inside for attaching frames. Their dimensions are 1.1x2 cm.
2. On the front part, at a height of 12.5 cm, a hole Ø 2.5 cm is cut out - this is the future entrance. A bushing is immediately prepared for it, which will fit tightly, but in such a way that it can be removed without significant effort.
3. The length of the sides is 49.6 cm, the height is 25 cm, the length of the walls is 44.5 cm, the height is 25 cm.

To make it convenient to move the structures from place to place, you can make a recess on the top part as a hand holder.

1. The bottom is removable. This is a sloping shield at an angle of 23°, which goes from the back to the front. It is usually made from 2-3 boards 3.5 cm thick. Be sure to make edging at the ends, and protrusions are made on the side of the landing board, where the hinges are then screwed.
2. The lower part of the bottom is sheathed with 5x3.5 cm boards, which will prevent the bottom from rotting and the hive coming into contact with the ground.
3. The ceiling is knocked together from 5 boards, which are fixed across the top with planks. Ceiling dimensions 496x40x1 cm.
4. The dimensions of the roof liner on the outside are 52x44.5 cm, on the inside - 45x37.5 cm.
5. The roof is made completely flat so that the hives can be assembled during transportation. They are tied with 10.5 x 2.4 cm boards, joined using the tongue-and-groove method and additionally fixed with non-toxic waterproof glue.
6. The dimensions of the frames are 43.5x23 cm with stationary slats.

• The parameters of the top bar are 47x2.5x2 cm.
• Side bar - 22x1 cm.
• Bottom bar 41.5x2x1 cm.

1. The ventilation frame is used to transport insects or to isolate them during the period of house treatment and prevention.

• side bar length - 47 cm;
• walls - 37.5 cm;
• thickness - 2 cm.

They are attached to the vent frame metal mesh with holes up to 3 mm.

All wooden parts smoothly planed and protected with fine sandpaper. The dimensions of the hives are strictly observed.

As the experience of beekeepers shows, such a construction is not very complicated and at the same time, it is the most convenient design. First, it helps strengthen the family and increase productivity. Secondly, it allows you to combine cases with each other. Thirdly, such convenient boxes are easier to transport and carry, including in stationary apiaries to and from the winter hut.

VIDEO: How to make a multi-body hive with your own hands

How to make a beehive with 20 frames

Drawings of these varieties are made according to standard project 179 60. The convenience lies in the fact that you can keep 2 families at once - provided that the housing is divided into two independent compartments and each is equipped with its own entrance.

The maximum benefit can be seen in winter - 2 families, although separated by a bar, spend in total less energy and feed. In such evidence it is always warmer than in multi-hulled ones, even for several bee colonies.

What you will need:

• boards - 0.2 cubic meters;
• galvanized sheet - 3 kg;
• galvanized mesh with a mesh size of 3 mm - 015 sq.m;
• round washers - 0.02 kg;
• screws - 0.2 kg;
• nails - 0.25 kg;
• roofing nails galvanized - 0.1 kg;
• staples - 2 pcs.;
• metal clamps - 2 pcs.;
• inserts for the arrival board - 4 pcs.;
• drying oil - 0.5 l;
• whitewash - 0.3 l;
• paints - 0.3 l.
• crushed chalk - 0.4 kg.

The main difference between the Ukrainian model and the Belarusian and Russian is the insulation of the front and rear walls.

1. The body is knocked together from boards. The dimensions of the finished box from the outside are 83x44x60 cm. The thickness of the outer walls is 1.5 cm, the inner ones are 2.5 cm. The length of the walls is 83 cm.
2. The sidewalls are assembled from 5 planks, a shell-shaped hole is made on top for the pressure board, and at the bottom for inserting the bottom. Wall size 42x3.5 cm.
3. Make 2 lower tapholes 20x1.2 cm - one on the front part, the other on the side. The top two are also made, but with different dimensions - 10x1.2 cm. Be sure to maintain an equal distance from the bottom of 34 cm, and from the edge - 16 cm.
4. The landing board is attached to the bottom with loops.
5. The bottom is made from 3 planks. Be sure to provide a clamping bar with which to secure the frames during transportation of the apiary.
6. The frames are made high, but narrower than the standard - 30x43.5 cm.

VIDEO: The most detailed description of a lounger for 20 frames

It is important to understand not only how to make hives for future families. But also how to properly place them in the apiary, so as not to lose them in the first year.

The ideal place for an apiary is moderately sunny, moderately shaded. Honey plants nearby

The location is chosen depending on the conditions and terrain. If you put them in an open area, then at noon the workers stop working, everyone leaves the house and hides in the shade under the landing board or even crawls under it.

For hives located in unshaded areas, the swarming rate is more than 70%. And productivity is 45% lower.

The direct consequences are very severe sun rays during transportation - the next shock on a road bump leads to the fact that the softened, newly built honeycombs break off. This leads to the death of not only the workers, but also the brood, and in some cases the queen may also die.

There are certain requirements for setting up hives in an apiary:

1. The hives are placed “facing” south. This will provide excellent lighting for daylight hours, and the back wall facing north will protect the family from strong gusts of wind.
2. It is advisable that large shrubs or trees grow behind the houses to serve as an additional barrier to the winds.
3. Even before you make a hive for bees yourself, make sure that there is a source of water in the place where they will stand. But even if it is not there, the problem can be solved through collective or individual drinkers.

There must be a source of water nearby - it is no less important for a bee than for a person

1. You should not allow direct sunlight to hit the roof and the house itself, but you should not shade it too much. This arrangement will limit ventilation and artificially increase the length of the day for bees - they will fly out earlier and return later. This will accelerate their wear and lead to earlier death.
2. The location for the apiary is chosen so that honey plants grow nearby. This will enable workers to prepare food faster. The maximum distance should not exceed 1.8-2 km.
3. It is necessary to make hives in such a way that it is possible to insulate them for the winter using moss or polyurethane foam.

When insulating, avoid direct contact of insects with polyurethane foam. To do this, it is lined with canvas.

1. All the grass is pulled out in front of houses that have already been exhibited and those that are just being exhibited - the beekeeper should be able to control the type and quality of garbage thrown out daily by minke whales. On the one hand, the quality of the garbage will show the state of the family. On the other hand, the absence of grass will make it possible to notice the prolapsed uterus in time - this happens quite often.
2. Attach planks to the landing boards - this will allow loaded bees to get into the house faster. This device is especially important during windy times.

So, we told you how to make a hive for bees yourself, what materials are needed for this and how to properly install houses in the apiary. If you have any questions or want to clarify some nuances, ask questions in the comments - our specialists will be happy to help you!

VIDEO: Moving an apiary, fastening hives, transporting bees

How to make a beehive with your own hands? This question cannot but interest a novice beekeeper. Of course, you can always purchase ready-made bee houses and simply install them in the chosen location. However, this is expensive and does not always suit the beekeeper. Making them yourself will help you build structures that will optimally fit into the size of the site. A hive of your own design may appear after gaining experience in bee breeding, but at the initial stage it is better to use standard designs, drawings of which are not difficult to find.

The essence of the task

At their core, bee hives are an artificial home for bees in the form of a house. In order for insects to develop normally, providing humans with beekeeping products, proper conditions must be created in such dwellings, close to the natural environment.

To make a hive with your own hands you may need various materials. You can assemble the houses using drawings that have already been tested in practice or by developing them yourself, taking into account personal experience. Their design primarily depends on the exact method in which insects are bred: it can be a stationary or mobile apiary, several hives nearby own home etc. When choosing an option and size, the following circumstances are taken into account: the number of bee colonies, taking into account the immediate future; features of the terrain and local climate; the size of the apiary and the number of staff.

When making evidence for bees with your own hands, you need to remember to ensure their normal maintenance. The following requirements must be met: sufficient strength to ensure resistance to any possible mechanical loads, including strong winds; ensuring constant temperature inside regardless of its fluctuations outside; full protection from precipitation and wind; dryness at any time of the year; sufficient spaciousness. Bees are considered to be quite unpretentious, hardworking insects, but the necessary arrangements must be made inside their house for full life activity.

Design principles

Bee hives can have different designs and sizes, but they all contain the following basic parts:

1. Body or walls of the structure. A hive can have one or more buildings. Inside the house, the body has grooves for installing frames. Entrance holes for bees are formed in it. The entrance can be made in the form of a hole with a diameter of 22-36 mm or a slot with a height of about 1-2 cm and a width of at least 10 cm. The dimensions of the body depend on many parameters and, above all, on the number of insects.
2. Bottom. There are 2 main types - removable and stationary (non-detachable) bottom. The first option is the most preferable, since separating the bottom from the body makes it possible to clean or carry out therapeutic measures without affecting the frame, that is, without interrupting the normal activity of insects. The stationary bottom is attached to the bottom of the body, and this design is characterized by increased strength, which is important when making mobile hives. In this case, the integral bottom has a protrusion in relation to the front wall, which forms a platform for arriving or departing bees.
3. Roof. It is most often made in the form of a flat shield. It is important that the coating reliably protects the hive from precipitation.
4. Frame. This important element is installed inside the housing with appropriate grooves. It is designed for bees to create honeycombs into which honey is deposited. In practice, the frames serve as a honey collector.
5. Shop. This is a type of case with a reduced height. It is designed to accumulate honey during the period of active collection. Another direction of its use is the resettlement of weak bee colonies.
6. Liner. It is an additional room installed between the main building and the roof. It does not have grooves for frames, but is designed to improve the comfort of keeping insects. For example, you can install additional thermal insulation. Sometimes the liner is mounted under the body. In this case, it helps create a microclimate in the hive.

Types of designs

Bee hives have the following main varieties:

1. Vertical hives or risers. Such a house is built in height, that is, it has several tiers (most often 2-3). Typically, 10-12 frames are installed in each compartment (tier). The good thing about the design is that, if necessary, the roof can be removed and an additional “floor” can be added.
2. Horizontal hive or bed. This house is growing horizontally. These are several buildings mounted in a row under common roof. The advantage is the fact that this design allows the store and the main body (nest) to be located nearby.

Depending on the size of the bee family, hives differ in the number of frames. The most common options are with 10-12 and 20-24 frames. Structures are also divided according to the shape of their frames. The following division is accepted: narrow-high, low-wide and square frames. Structurally, single-walled and double-walled hives are distinguished. The second type is especially interesting for cold areas, as it allows you to place additional thermal insulation between the walls.

Design by size

Designing a hive is primarily about optimizing its size. They also depend on the number of frames, their size and shape. The thickness of the walls also plays a certain role in the dimensions, since when installing thermal insulation it can be significant. The thickness of the walls without insulation is usually dictated by the thickness of the board and is selected within 30-40 mm. In two-layer structures, the wall thickness increases accordingly.

The dimensions of the house depend on the size of the frames and are selected from the following calculation:

• width - the number of frames multiplied by 37.4-38.2 mm;
• frame length with a margin of 13-15 mm;
• height, taking into account the size of the folds and the total height of the frames.

Bee hives can be equipped with frames different sizes and type. The following framework classification has been adopted:

• nesting and magazine frames are distinguished by purpose;
• the standard frame has a length of 43-44 cm and a height of 22.5-23.5 cm;
• medium-sized nesting frame: length - 43-44 cm, height - 29.5-30.5 cm;
• narrow-high type frame, reverse: size - 30x43.6 cm.

Frames should be placed inside the hive taking into account the following recommendations:

• The thickness of the frames is most often chosen to be approximately 25 mm;
• the distance between adjacent frames is 37-39 mm;
• distance to the body wall - at least 7 mm, from the bottom - 16-22 mm;
• A gap of 10-14 mm is left between the frames in a multi-tier system.

The choice of the number of frames depends on a number of factors:

• 8 frames: recommended for beginner beekeepers, as well as for hives with young bees;
• 12-16 frames: standard layout, with the hive initially planned for 12 frames, but with the prospect of gradually increasing their number to 16;
• 16 frames: for large bee colonies;
• 24 frames: for keeping several large families with planning a farm with a beekeeping bias.

Making hives

When making bee hives with your own hands, you will need the following tool:

• a circular saw(with a significant number of houses);
• Bulgarian;
• hacksaw;
• electric drill;
• screwdriver;
• jigsaw;
• plane (preferably electric);
• milling cutter;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• grinding machine;
• scissors;
• file;
• metal scissors;
• paint brush;
• metal ruler;
• roulette;
• plumb line;
• construction level.

You can distinguish the following stages of making hives with your own hands:

1. Case manufacturing. The most common technology: assembling a frame from a wooden beam, which is then sheathed with a board 3-4 cm thick and 20-25 cm wide. The most suitable wood species are: linden, poplar, willow, cedar, fir, spruce. The top of the boards is coated with paint, and white, blue and yellow tones are recommended. A tap hole (round or slot-shaped) and slots for installing frames are formed on the front wall. On inside grooves are installed on the walls in which the frames move and are held. It is recommended to provide handles on the side of the body for lifting the structure. The insulation of the body is carried out with polystyrene foam or mineral wool. Besides wood paneling in lightweight versions, plywood, polycarbonate, polyurethane, and polystyrene can be used.
2. Bottom. The bottom does not bear a force load, but should not allow moisture to pass through from below. It can be made from boards, plywood, chipboard with waterproofing sheathing.
3. Roof. It is made flat and must have reliable waterproofing. Typically, roofing felt, thick polyethylene, is used. Most often, for reliability, the hive is covered with a metal sheet.
4. Framework. The most common wooden frame design. Its assembly begins by connecting 2 side planks, an upper and lower beam. Holes with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm are drilled in the side strips, through which steel wire is passed. A wire row is formed similarly between the upper and lower beams. As a result, a wire mesh with a cell size of 4-6 cm is formed inside the frame. Instead of wire, you can use nylon fishing line with a diameter of at least 0.5 mm. After making the frames, the mesh must be thoroughly disinfected and the waxing process must be carried out. It involves forming wax into hexagonal honeycombs, which are placed on a wire mesh. To facilitate this process, you can use a wooden template.

Beekeeping on own plot enjoys deserved popularity. The right amount of honey, and good quality, can only be obtained with proper organization keeping bees. You can make hives for them with your own hands, but to do this you should take into account some of the features of breeding these beneficial insects.