Which perfumes contain amber and musk. The use of musk and amber in perfumes

Amber, musk and oud are the stars of oriental perfumery

Sophisticated connoisseurs define Arab perfumery as very special. And it’s not even about the mysterious names and richly inlaid bottles. A luxurious aromatic composition is its main highlight, that magic that attracts women and men of all ages like a magnet.
And the three main stars shining in oriental perfumes can be considered oud, amber and musk. Moreover, not everyone who is in love with their aroma has any idea what these ingredients are and where they come from. Let's lift the veil of secrecy!

Oud

An extremely expensive component - a liter of oud oil costs several thousand dollars! And the reason for this is its rare origin. Oud is a thick and viscous resinous substance with a strong aroma, which is produced by the agar tree, protecting itself from damage by one of the types of fungi. Moreover, only mature trees with an age of at least 60 years are suitable for extracting oud, and there are not many of them left.
The smell of oud is an exciting mixture of woody, balsamic, leathery and sweet and sour shades with a subtle smoky veil. It goes well with patchouli, rose, sandalwood.

Ambergris

Who would have thought that ambergris, which gives perfume attractive and exciting notes, is a waste product of toothed whales, sperm whales? And yet this is exactly so. Getting into the ocean and for a long time Being in salty waters, penetrated by the rays of the sun, the ambergris ripens, and then the waves throw it ashore. It is believed that the longer she walks on the ocean, the better the aroma becomes. Of course, due to its unusual nature, such an ingredient is also very expensive.
can be described as slightly earthy, animalic, bright, sweet and incredibly warm. It goes well with the smells of flowers and spices.

Musk

Another component of natural origin. It is extracted from the glands of male musk deer, as well as muskrats, turtles, musk oxen and some other musk animals. It is musk that binds the notes of perfume into a single whole, helping the melody of the aromas to play. full force. Natural musk is one of the most expensive ingredients in the world, and can cost up to $45,000 per kilogram.
Musk itself is a complex and very contradictory aroma; everyone sees something different in it. Some describe it as a spicy leather scent, others hear sweet powdery notes or a pronounced animalic smell. In general, you need to evaluate it personally! It is often combined with jasmine, ylang-ylang, bergamot, lemongrass, and geranium.

Largely thanks to oud, musk and amber, Arab perfumery has that same languid and sweet fragrance that makes us dizzy and makes us forget about everything.
But it should be remembered that such multifaceted and sensual perfumes are not suitable for frivolous morning walks - they are intended for spectacular evening outings, for magnificent events and special receptions, for example, a trip to a restaurant!

Anbar), ambergris is a hard, flammable, waxy substance formed in the digestive tract of sperm whales. Also found floating in sea ​​water or washed ashore. It is highly valued in perfumery and is used as an odor fixative. Occasionally used as a flavoring agent also in traditional medicine and homeopathy. Currently, almost all collected natural ambergris is bought by perfume companies to make expensive perfumes.

Origin

Presumably, ambergris is secreted as a result of irritation of the mucous membrane caused by the horny jaws of squid swallowed by sperm whales.

Properties

Ambergris pieces have different round shapes and weigh from 14 g to tens of kg; the mass of the largest “nugget” is 340 kg (found on the shore of the island of Madeira in 1942). Density 900-920 kg/m3. It softens in the hands, melts at 62 °C forming a yellow viscous liquid and evaporates at 100 °C forming white vapor. Flammable. It is highly soluble in alcohol, ether, essential and fatty oils, but insoluble in water.

IN fresh ambergris is a soft mass of blackish or grayish-black color, which has an unpleasant fecal odor. Under the influence of sea water and light, it gradually lightens, becoming brownish or light gray (“white ambergris”), and hardens. At the same time, its smell is refined and softened, becoming sweetish and musky, according to perfumery assessment - “earthy”, “sea” and “animal”. After cleaning and drying, the color of ambergris ranges from black to golden and white (the latter varieties are the most valuable).

Mining

Compound

The specific smell of ambergris is due to the oxidation products of triterpene alcohol ambreina, which is close in composition to cholesterol. In addition, ambergris contains sodium chloride, calcium phosphate, alkaloids, and benzoic acid.

The main (up to 70%) components of ambergris are non-volatile polyterpene compounds: ambrein, which is obtained by redissolving in hot alcohol, cholesterol and epicoprostanol. They serve as odor fixatives because they hold volatile scented substances on the skin, slowing down their evaporation from the aromatic mixture.

Synthetic analogues and the market

In the twentieth century, the need for ambergris stimulated the search for synthetic substances to satisfy the growing demand for a rare and expensive natural product. The oldest and most widely used substitutes are ambroxide, obtained from natural sclareol, and later from thujone and other substances. A biotechnological scheme for obtaining ambroxide (microbial synthesis) has also been developed. Despite the emergence of substitutes, most manufacturers of Arabic perfumes still give preference to natural amber when creating new fragrances.

With the development of synthetic analogues and substances with similar properties, the price of amber tincture has stabilized at US$ 9 per pint (about $18 per liter). Raw amber, depending on the quality, costs $ 2-9 per ounce (from $ 70 to $ 320 per kilogram). However, in the United States, the sale of any products whose origin is associated with endangered species (including ambergris found on the shore) has been prohibited since 1973.

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Synonyms

See what "Amber" is in other dictionaries: ambergris - ambergris, s...

Russian spelling dictionary - (Persian amber, Arabic ambur). An aromatic grayish substance emitted by sperm whales and floating on the surface of the sea; used for perfume. Dictionary of foreign words included in the Russian language. Chudinov A.N., 1910. AMBER Arab., amber.… …

See what "Amber" is in other dictionaries: Dictionary of foreign words of the Russian language - y, w. ambre m. 1. A gray waxy aromatic substance of animal (according to 18th century ideas of plant) origin, as well as the odorous resin of some plants. Sl. 18. Fragrant matter from which perfumes or smoking powders are made...

Historical Dictionary of Gallicisms of the Russian Language See smell... Dictionary of Russian synonyms and similar expressions. under. ed. N. Abramova, M.: Russian Dictionaries, 1999. ambergris incense, smell Dictionary of Russian synonyms ...

See what "Amber" is in other dictionaries:- ambergris A waxy substance formed in the insides of the sperm whale. [English-Russian gemological dictionary. Krasnoyarsk, KrasBerry. 2007.] Topics gemology and jewelry production Synonyms ambergris EN ambergris ... Technical Translator's Guide

Women an fragrant substance found in clods along the seashore, believed to be from the intestines of whales (sperm whales). Black ambergris, in trade, black amber jet. The amber smell is only detected when smoking it. Dictionary Dalia. IN AND. Dahl. 1863 1866 … Dahl's Explanatory Dictionary

- (gray) are the secretions found in the intestines of the sperm whale (Physeter macrocephalus L.). In the past, A. was used in medicine as a stomach strengthening and anticonvulsant, which has now been completely abandoned. Ambergris... ... Encyclopedia of Brockhaus and Efron

See what "Amber" is in other dictionaries:- (wrong ambergris). The pronunciation and spelling of amvr is outdated... Dictionary of difficulties of pronunciation and stress in modern Russian language

- (from Arabic anbar), a waxy substance formed in the digestive tract of the sperm whale; Sometimes ambergris is found in the water or on the shore. Used in perfumery as a fixative for the aroma of perfumes... Modern encyclopedia

Natural pheromones

Musk and amber are natural aphrodisiacs , sex attractants - aromatic substances to attract the opposite sex. They cause an instinctive erotic reaction at the subconscious level.
Since ancient times they have been used in Eastern countries, as in pure form, and as part of aromatic compositions for the harmonization of intimate relationships

Musk- male pheromone, the smell of a dominant male.A strong-smelling substance produced by the glands of some animals (musk deer, beaver, musk ox). Acts as a chemical signal forattracting individuals of the opposite sex, marking territory, when lubricating fur.Musk, obtained from the musk deer or musk deer (Moschus moschiferus), is found in a sac located behind the navel andrepresents the secretion (secretment) of the preputial glands (follicles). The male gonads produce a substance similar to fresh honey, reddish in color.Over time, it hardens and becomes black.In an adult male, the musk bursa contains 30-56 g of musk.When dried, its strong and persistent odor disappears and reappears when moistened.The smell of musk is very pungent, felt in a concentration of 1:100,000,000,000.

It is a known fact from history that a big fan of musky perfume was the Venetian seducer Giacomo Casanova, who enjoyed a certain popularity among women. This substance, like ambergris, has erogenous properties and, when used in perfumes, leads to harmony in the composition of aromas, enhancing the combination of odors, giving them warmth, almost carnal richness and sensuality.
How to distinguish natural musk deer musk from plant copies can be found in our VKontakte group: click

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For wholesale buyers, when purchasing a liter or more of pheromones, aromatic oils or perfumes based on them, we are ready to offer individual prices.

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Ambergris is a waste product of sperm whales. They throw digestive waste into the ocean, which in turn spends a long time in salt water, under the sun, and thus matures. The longer the future ambergris is in its natural environment - in the ocean - the better quality it will be. In this article we will try to lift the veil on what ambergris is and why ambergris is an important component in modern perfumery, why ambergris causes pleasant emotions in perfumes, but in its natural form it causes disgust. If you have heard a lot about ambergris for a long time, but still haven’t figured out what ambergris is and what it smells like, continue reading the article. Now everything will become clear.

Depending on the predominant components in the composition, perfumes can be classified, for example, as follows: oriental, sweet, chypre, smoky, musky, amber, vanilla, green, floral, etc. ( And in this article there is a classification of perfumes into perfumes, eau de parfum and eau de toilette.). Among the most popular in the last few years are amber-musk perfumes (in this text I deliberately do not explain the difference between perfumes, eau de toilette and eau de parfum - I will devote time to this in one of the upcoming articles).

Has anyone ever wondered what ambergris or musk is? And why are they so popular among particularly passionate and impressive consumers?
Now I'll try to explain. There are not only amber perfumes, but also amber chords in perfumes. So, amber and amber accords are two different things.

Ambergris

A brief description of what ambergris is has already been said at the beginning of the article. Now let’s look at ambergris in more detail.

It is ambergris that is used in the preparation of expensive perfumes. She adds finished product heavy, animalic notes that ultimately make the aroma attractive and exciting. Ambergris itself, of course, is smelly, but when properly combined with other perfume ingredients, it sounds completely different. By the way, these days there is less and less natural ambergris in the world, if not to say that there is none at all. The fact is that the extraction of ambergris often involves the killing of sperm whales. And given the high cost of ambergris, hunting sperm whales is an attractive activity for poachers. Greenpeace and related wildlife organizations oppose such actions, so the industry is forced to actively switch to artificial ingredients. Today, ambergris is used for perfumes only in perfumes, but otherwise – synthetic amber.

If we talk about how ambergris smells in various perfumes, then it is important to smell several products containing amber and smell the ambergris yourself. Overall, its aroma can be compared to animal, earthy, warm- it’s just like warm earth with a little animal mixed in. Ambergris fixes the smell.

When the top notes of the fragrance leave, the amber begins and remains until the end. Notice when someone with heavy Arab origin perfume, some sweetish, cloying, warm aroma hangs in the air for a long time. This is ambergris in its separate modification. By the way, ambergris was so popular that the French abandoned it only in the 19th century. And so .

Among the popular perfumes, the following are considered amber:

• Amouage Amouage Epic Woman
• Nez a Nez Ambre a Sade
• Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan
• Guerlain Shalimar
• Chanel Coco
• Versace Crystal Noir
• Yves Rocher Voile d'Ambre
• Estée Lauder Sensuous

And of course, you will definitely smell natural amber in Arabic perfumes. Preferably there, on the spot - in Egypt, the UAE.

Amber chords directly related to amber. Amber translated from English. means amber. Remember what this fossilized resin looks like? coniferous trees. Its color is brown, yellow, orange - that is, warm, soft. Amber accords are so named precisely because of amber. These are resinous, warm, sweetish aromas with leather, animal, and vanilla notes. The smell has nothing to do with it. Rather, they are analogues with a warm color = smell.

Musk

As for musk, this perfume ingredient is also natural origin. It is obtained from the seminal glands of the musk deer. In addition to deer, other sources of musk include musk rats, muskrats, bull sheep, sloping ducks, shrews, beetles (musk beetles), musk turtles, alligators, and snakes.

Like ambergris, musk is the result of human intervention in wildlife. Therefore, over the past few decades, famous brands have been actively using analogues of natural musk, but plant origin: ambrette seeds (Abelmosh muscat), angelica (Angelica), alearia, muscat rose, etc.
What’s interesting is that, translated from Greek, musk means all pleasant smells, but from Indian musk means mosca, egg.

In the 1960-1970s, during the hippie era, the aroma of musk became popular as completely consistent with the aesthetics of the hippie era and everything natural and natural. The first musky fragrances: The body shop – white musk.

And here are synthetic musk substitutes:

• white musk – warm, spicy aroma, you can hear leather, honey, tar;
• African or blue musk (like white, only sweeter);
• red (oriental) – tart, with an animalistic tint, woody;
• black (woody) – with shades of leather, smoke, sand, dominant masculine;
• oriental (eastern) musk – powdery, jasmine;
• Chinese – aldehydic musk;
• Turkish musks – tea, leather;
• naked musks have the effect of smelling your skin, only even better.

There are also Tibetan and Himalayan musks - they imitate real musk tincture.

Perfume with musk:

• Narciso Rodriguez For Her Narciso Rodriguez;
• White Musk Montale for men and women;
• Clean Skin Clean for women;
• Princess Musk Ajmal for women and more. etc.

When buying perfumes with musk and amber, you need to be aware that they are heavy, languid, and sweet.

They are used as attractants - that is, such perfumes attract the opposite sex. Well, we ourselves can fall in love with these smells. But this is only if our inner mood matches such aromas.

Latin name: (Physeter macrocephalus).

English name: Cachalot

Common name: gray animal ambergris sperm whale

Family: sperm whales

Production method: extraction of the contents of the natural secretions of the sperm whale (Physeter macrocephalus) onto castor oil.

Applicable part: hard waxy substance

Origin of raw materials: Medan, Sumatra

Raw material supplier: Future Plus Company

Role: aphrodisiac

Fragrance tone: soft animal notes, accent of burnt sugar and vanilla, dark chocolate, pheromone effect of the aroma with an animalistic tone.

Description

Sperm whale ambergris - animal aphrodisiac for personal use in its pure form as individual elite perfumes and for making mixtures of absolutes.

It has a very unusual musky animal aroma. It is used to prepare the best perfumes - as a flavor fixer and a component that brings passion to the perfume. Amber is commonly present in many oriental floral or "oriental" perfumes for both women and men. The aroma is resinous, sweet, warm, cheerful. It is a strong scent fixer, therefore it is widely used in perfumery to make perfumes last longer.

Floating "gold" - always, at all times, ambergris has remained a commodity of the highest value. Over the centuries, many experiments have been carried out with ambergris. It was used as a medicine, was used by healers to obtain a love potion, and was used as a seasoning and additive in wine. In the XVI and XVII centuries ambergris was considered a panacea for almost all ills.

The Arabs of the Middle Ages were well aware of the stimulating properties of ambergris and used it to make aromatic incense, as well as special dishes, especially for harems. However, still in Ancient Rome rich matrons were well aware that perfumes containing ambergris could captivate any man and completely deprive him of his will.

The annual world production of ambergris is now extremely small. Accurate chemical composition It has not yet been identified, but it has the amazing property of retaining any smell. It is for this quality that perfumers value ambergris. Nowadays it is considered the best perfume fixer.

Ambergris is produced in the intestines of the sperm whale as a medicine to heal wounds caused by the sharp beaks of the squid that the whales eat. Gradually passing through the intestines, the ambergris is released into the water. Ambergris has no value when you first go into the water.

To be used as a great oil, it must go through a complex natural process of salt water, sun and time. Ambergris is extracted by collecting ambergris excreted by whales from the surface of the water or on the coast, since this substance is released naturally. That is, the use of ambergris for the production of expensive perfumes or the sale of pure ambergris oil does not cause any harm to the sperm whale species. After the ambergris in the form of a porous mass has been caught from the waters of the ocean, it is dried for several months, and bad smell gives way to a magnificent amber aroma. Subsequently, it is infused for several months in the cold. At the end of the processing, an oil with an unusual exciting smell is obtained.

Watch the video below about sperm whale ambergris:

Application

The aroma is ambiguous and multifaceted; it can be described as a noble resinous tobacco with salty sea notes.

Use in perfumery

Amber is mainly used not in its pure form, but to bind the aroma: it magically, incredibly transforms the aroma of mixtures, giving it volume, three-dimensionality and warmth. Amber also enhances the sound of floral notes, filling them from the inside. Rose mixed with amber becomes flesh and blood. The lotus absolute, like an unopened bud, suddenly fills up and reaches out to the Sun and... opens up! Amber, remaining virtually invisible in perfume, brings light, volume to the composition and expands the range of sound of the aroma.

Psycho-emotional action

The aroma of the oil lifts the mood and improves mutual understanding between people. Ambergris has aphrodisiac properties - it enhances desire and perseverance in a person. Hence the special glory of ambergris as a “magnet” for men.

Healing effect

Ambergris was smelled to improve the functioning of the senses and brain and relieve headaches. It was used for smudging for colds and to strengthen the heart. Currently used for the treatment of bronchopulmonary diseases.

Compound

Liquid extraction of natural wild sperm whale ambergris on castor oil (Physeter macrocephalus).

The composition does not contain: solvents or their traces, alcohols, ethyl alcohol, alcohol or traces thereof, mineral oils or bases, pigments, fragrances, synthetic and chemical components, preservatives.

Certificates

Complies with HALAL standard

Russian certificate of conformity

Declaration of Conformity of the EAC Customs Union

About the product

Shelf life: is not limited.

Storage conditions:far from straight lines sun rays, in the cool place.

Manufacturer: LABLAB Syria, Homs, Maskani 715

Raw material supplier: Future Plus Company

Project: EAST NIGHTS

Line: AMANI