Caring for strawberries after fruiting. Autumn in the strawberry bed: current care tips Options for winter shelters for strawberries

How to process strawberries in the fall so as to protect them in winter can be found in this article.

First of all, properly prepare the plantation for processing with the help of advice from experienced summer residents.

You need to know how to properly fertilize strawberries so that they grow without diseases. It is important to protect it from pests and various insects.

Let's protect strawberries for the winter with the help of special coverings.

Treating strawberries in the fall against pests and diseases means a successful harvest in the future and ensuring strawberries remain healthy for a long time.

After harvesting a good harvest, it is necessary to ensure good harvest and in the future tense. To do this, you need to treat the strawberry bushes and properly prepare them for winter.

The advice of experienced summer residents will help.

Preparation for processing

Before we start loosening, pruning and fertilizing, let's first prepare the plantation. What needs to be done? Read on.

Get rid of all dried leaves

Powdery mildew damages a large amount of greenery, which must first be removed. You can simply pick it off and trim it. Collect everything collected in one pile and burn it, otherwise the infection will adversely affect the strawberries.

Some gardeners believe that they should not disrupt natural processes and remove leaves, but there are many opinions and, based on the experience of many people, it is worth removing excess leaves.

You can conduct the following experiment: cut half of the plantation beds and remove the leaves, leave the other half. What comes out of this experience can be learned at the next harvest.

Leaves need to be trimmed very carefully. Use scissors to cut only the necessary blades without touching the stems. Get rid of all tendrils.

Replant bushes

This is done very rarely, approximately once every 6 years, depending on the care. When the time has come, you should move the rosette further away so that you will be pleased with the aroma of strawberries the next time you pick them.

How to fertilize correctly

Many summer residents forget that in addition to summer and spring, it is extremely important to fertilize the soil in the fall.

Pure organic approvals will not work as they can burn the leaves.

Here, common chicken droppings, humus or manure would be an excellent fertilizer.

Wood ash will also be an excellent soil fertilizer. It will also help as insect control. Place a handful under the bush.

In order to make live fertilizer from wood ash, you need to pour a glass of ash with ten liters of water and let it sit. Then divide and water each bush.

These are suitable mineral fertilizers such as superphosphates or potassium salt.

Important to know: no chlorine-containing substances. Strawberries don't like chlorine.

It is also important to remember to mulch the grass with straw or sawdust to ensure safety from large quantities weeds.

Nitrogen fertilizers are not suitable in the fall. They are used only in spring. Because of them, in the fall the plants may begin to grow very tall, which is undesirable.

We fight pests and diseases

From whiteflies and ticks

In the vastness of strawberry plantations, you can find pests such as whiteflies, strawberry mites or weevils.

Experienced summer residents advise fighting them with folk remedies.

This method works great:

For 10 liters of water at a temperature of 30 degrees, use 3 tablespoons of liquid soap, vegetable oil, 2 tablespoons of vinegar and ash.

Apply this solution to all soil, foliage, and bushes.

From weevil

How to get rid of weevils on strawberries using folk remedies

To your liking chemical substances, and to whom folk ones. It's up to the summer resident to decide, but folk remedies have been considered effective since ancient times. Let's consider methods of struggle.

Onion peel

We use a three-liter jar. We put it there onion skins and celandine 2 to 1 per 1/3 jar. Pour boiling water over and strain. When the solution has cooled, spray the leaves. We repeat the process after 2 weeks.

Laundry soap

200 grams of soap per 10 liters of water. This solution is sprayed on strawberries during budding.

Mustard

Dissolve mustard powder in about 3 liters of warm water. Carry out the treatment at the same time as with laundry soap- during the budding period.

Potassium permangantsovka

For 10 liters of water – 5 grams.

Garlic

Infuse for a week in 10 liters of water - 100 grams of garlic, add pine extract - 400 ml. And boric acid about 2 tablespoons.

Covering strawberries for the winter

It all depends on the harsh winter temperatures, that is, on the terrain.

Shelter under spruce branches

If heavy frosts are expected, then you should cover the strawberries with spruce branches. A little later, in winter, cover it with snow on top.

Mulching

Another method is mulching.

There are many options here - straw, sawdust, hay, reeds, peat and others. All of them will create warmth for the strawberries and will keep them warm in the cold winter. The main thing is not to forget to remove the mulch in the spring so that the strawberries do not burn.

But mulching in this way has its disadvantages:

• Every year you need to update the mulch;
• Attracting all kinds of pests;
• Soil oxidation.

Polyethylene film

A good method for dealing with frost and frost, but it also has a number of disadvantages:

• Overheating of roots;
• Disruption of the work of earthworms, which favorably promote growth;
• Restriction of soil in the air;
• Limit the soil to plenty of water.

You can help strawberries survive winter stress by spraying them with a special stimulant Zirconium.

Black covering material

It is considered the most common and comfortable material for covering strawberries for the winter.

There are many myths about it not leaking water, but this only happens when it is new. Its suitability can be checked immediately and you can make sure that water flows in easily and without problems.

With the help of black covering material, strawberries will live from 3 to 4 years without problems.

Some covering materials are sold with special holes for strawberries.

Other materials for covering strawberries

There are also white-black, yellow-black, white-red materials. What makes them special?

For example, yellow-black material differs in that yellow color All kinds of pests and insects are attracted, thereby protecting the plant. And the black color helps reduce weed growth.

It is at the end of summer and autumn that the crop is formed on next year, so the plants need to be taken care of. The root system of this moisture-loving crop is located at a shallow depth, in the surface layer of soil. It cannot extract moisture from deeper layers and depends on its supply from the outside. Therefore, it simply needs periodic watering. And it needs to be produced almost all year round starting in spring, when the leaves grow, and ending in late autumn, if there is no rain. Of course, the seasonal frequency of irrigation varies, and the most frequent watering is done in the summer.

Watering in autumn is no different from spring.

Naturally, the numbers may fluctuate depending on the place where the strawberries grow and the climatic characteristics of the upcoming autumn season. In dry and warm weather, the frequency of watering increases; in heavy rains, strawberries not only do not need additional moisture, but also suffer from excess moisture. Therefore, during heavy rains it is covered with a light film.

There are several rules regarding watering strawberries:

1. It is better to do it in the morning so that the plants can dry out by evening.
2. It is recommended to water rarely, but abundantly, so that the soil is well saturated with moisture. If you moisten the soil often and little by little, strawberries can be affected by a fungal disease: gray rot, powdery mildew and others. The recommended rate is 10-12 liters per square meter.
3. The amount of water directly depends on the type of soil in which the berry grows. If the soil is loamy, the plant requires more moisture than growing in light soils. There are developed and time-tested standards that provide for loamy soils 120 m³ of water per 1 ha, for soils with light mechanical composition - 80 m³ per 1 ha. In autumn, these numbers are reduced by 10%.

Types of watering strawberries

If the strawberry growing area is small, a regular watering can is used for irrigation. It is better to take warm water. Its optimal temperature for the plant is 18-20°C. Water from a well or well is too cold, so you need to make sure there is a tank or old bath, into which water intended for irrigation is poured. The water will be warmed by the sun and then used. Of course, manual watering takes a lot of time and effort, so it is used when small plantings strawberries

When watering with a hose, physical costs are reduced, but water consumption becomes maximum, because it gets not only onto the plants, but also into the rows and spills to the sides.

You can also purchase modern watering systems, which are divided into:

• drip;
• sprinkling.

Drip systems are the most effective during flowering and fruiting. Such systems are divided into internal and end, adjustable and not. The water in them is supplied to the very root of the plant. These are very economical systems that allow you to reduce water consumption by 2-3 times compared to a sprinkler system. The soil under the plants is always kept moist, and the row spacing remains dry.

Sprinkling is carried out stationary or with a movable sprinkler, which can be moved around the site. A variety of sprinklers: circular, fan, rotary, swinging and others - allow you to water and small areas, and large plantations. Can be done automatic feeding water using timers and sensors. The disadvantage of sprinkler systems is high consumption water.

Autumn work on caring for young and adult plants

It is known that autumn is favorable time for planting young strawberry bushes. And their watering differs significantly from irrigating adult plants. When planting, use ½ liter of water for each plant. Next, for 2 weeks they are watered several times a day with a small amount of warm water. Then the frequency of watering is reduced to 1 time every 1 - 2 days. When the bushes have completely taken root and become stronger, they are watered according to the pattern of adult plants.

Another technique for caring for berries is mulching, which is necessary to retain moisture near the roots. To do this, use straw, sawdust, pine branches or cardboard, and film residues. Mulch also protects plants from weeds and dirt.

Autumn feeding consists of applying phosphorus fertilizers (50-60 g of superphosphate per bucket of water) and wood ash (1-2 cups per bucket). The plant responds well to feeding with boron and manganese.

When growing strawberries on your plot, caring for them will be exactly the same as for strawberries.

We hope that the above material has dotted all the i’s and answered the question of whether strawberries need to be watered during the fall.

Caring for strawberries in summer should be carried out systematically. The future strawberry harvest greatly depends on this. You need to pay attention to spots on strawberries, also mites on strawberries can do a lot of harm and you also need to constantly fight them.

Caring for strawberries in August

Without knowing how to care for strawberries in August, you risk losing your harvest next year. The last month of summer is often dry and hot. Therefore, it is important to water at least 2 times a week. The plants themselves “signal” the need for watering - the bushes droop and the foliage dries out.

You can water strawberries either by sprinkling or at the root - the sun is no longer so aggressive, and there will be no burn on the leaves

If the leaves continue to dry out, become stained, or weaken, they should be carefully cut off and only 3-4 healthy leaves should be left to improve the health of the “green mass.” The same goes for mustaches, which can be removed if they are still growing or if you forgot to do so in July.

Plants can be fed with a weak solution of mullein (1:10) or bird droppings (1:20) and loosen the soil. One 10 liter bucket should be enough for 10-12 bushes. You can form earthen “sides” up to 15 cm high around the beds and fill them to the top with water.

And it is also recommended in August plant new strawberry bushes Location on. It is best to do this in the evening or on a cloudy day. The seedlings must have three true leaves and a developed root system. It is planted in a previously prepared wet hole.

Caring for strawberries in September

Autumn strawberry care is different from summer events insignificant. However, they should not be neglected either.

Some varieties of strawberries continue to form flowers even in September. The berries on them will not ripen before the onset of cold weather, so such “idle” inflorescences should be picked off. The same goes for strawberry mustaches.

Even if the forecasts promise mild winter, feed the bushes. Ammophos is perfect for this (the contents are added at the rate of 30 g per 1 sq.m.). For “warming”, rotted chicken manure, diluted in water in a ratio of 1:15, is also added. 1-1.5 liters of the composition are poured under each bush. Sometimes cow manure is used, diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10 with the addition of 1 cup of ash. Strawberries are watered generously with the resulting mixture at the rate of 1.5-2 liters per bush.

For the last time before winter, inspect the strawberry bushes and discard diseased and affected specimens, as well as remove excess tendrils and withered leaves. Don't throw away "bad" plants, but put them in the compost pile.

Caring for strawberries after trimming the leaves

Caring for strawberries open ground involves not only the removal of tendrils and inflorescences, but also leaves. However, there is no need to “expose” the plant completely, since by tearing off healthy leaves, you reduce the likelihood of the formation of peduncles and fruits, reduce the yield and doom the strawberries to difficulties during the wintering period. First of all, remove dry and withered leaves affected by strawberry mites. If the fruit-bearing plant is almost entirely affected, then it is easier to cut it off with pruners just above the growth point and burn the remains.

If you need seedlings for propagation, then you should not remove the whiskers, you need to give them the opportunity to take root and grow a strong rosette

After pruning, loosen the soil and water it. Treat the bushes with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and sprinkle with ash. To provide good growth buds, feed the strawberries with universal fertilizer at the rate of 10 g per 10 liters of water. Ammonium nitrate and nitrogen fertilizers are also suitable (use according to instructions).

Towards the end of September, strawberry bushes can be covered with straw to protect them from upcoming frosts. Place freshly cut grass between the rows - it will become the first spring fertilizer.

Fertilizing strawberries in autumn

After the above work on autumn strawberry care, dig up the rows, hill up and feed the bushes with fertilizer. You can use manure (2-4 kg per 1 sq.m.), chicken droppings (1 kg per 10 liters of water) or wood ash (100 g per 1 sq.m.). In this case, manure is applied so that the fertilizer does not touch the strawberry leaves: to avoid burns to the plant. On the contrary, ash is sprayed not only under the roots, but also on the leaves.

As mineral fertilizing Complex fertilizer is suitable (2 tablespoons of nitroammophoska per 10 liters of water).

Caring for remontant strawberries

From mid-September, start caring for fruit-bearing bushes. Loosen the soil to hide root system and protect her from the cold. As a rule, at this time the plants are covered with a “blanket” of cut green manure or the soil is mulched with straw, hay, fallen leaves and mowed weeds. Remove remaining flower stalks so that they do not weaken the plants, and cut off any withered leaves after the first frost.

Covering strawberries for the winter

The final stage of autumn care for garden strawberries is insulation. 2 days after treatment and feeding, cover the bushes with straw, spruce paws or fallen leaves. This will not only protect your strawberries from winter frosts, but will also serve as an additional source of organic matter.

Almost everyone makes these mistakes and useless actions. Caring for strawberries in the fall - unexpected nuances and subtleties. How to give up meaningless work in the beds and in the field, how to prepare a generous harvest in the fall - simple tips agronomists and experienced farmers.

1. Caring for strawberries in the fall: don’t cut them!

It is a fact: experienced gardeners Strawberries are not pruned in the fall. And farmers don’t prune – and unpruned strawberries overwinter in industrial areas, and the harvest is early and plentiful. Why?

Strawberry single fruiting, short daylight hours(KSD), and NSD, day-neutral varieties, do not need pruning. They only need sanitary cleaning: only diseased and damaged leaves are cut off.

Old, reddened, yellowed ones are useful for strawberries: they still participate in the life of the plant and protect young foliage.

The death of chloroplasts and the cessation of chorophyll synthesis with cold weather does not mean the cessation of leaf respiration and does not eliminate their necessity.

Lack of cellular respiration, by the way, is one of the reasons for the decrease in yield. Pruning also slows down the growth of a new rosette - protection from the cold and the basis of the future harvest.

Fruit buds of the strawberry variety KSD are laid in August-September, in the axils upper leaves, vegetative - in the lower sinuses.

By pruning at the end of summer or early autumn, we destroy both the buds and part of the harvest. And we do this from generation to generation!

Remontant strawberries bear fruit until frost: pruning them is not autumn care, but sabotage.

NSD (and remontant) varieties lay buds regardless of the length of daylight hours, but they also do not need autumn pruning.

The reasons are the same: weakening of the bush due to loss of leaves, decreased winter hardiness.
If something needs to be pruned on NSD varieties, it is better to do it before the end of July - both your conscience is clear and the plant will prepare for winter.

Important! Strawberries are not pruned for 20-25 days after harvest: the leaves transfer plastic substances to the plant, which is depleted of fruiting.

Pruning in September-October is too late, it’s not care, it’s a crime: for the puny bushes remaining after the “cut,” this winter may be the last.

Pruning diseased strawberry leaves in the fall is not care, but the spread of infection.

In addition, fruiting is shifted due to the late formation of fruit buds, and productivity decreases due to a decrease in their number.

- And the diseased leaves, - will the gardeners be indignant? How not to cut it? You can object this way: the flu cannot be cured with a haircut.

If there is fungal spotting or other disease on the leaves, you need to treat them with fungicides or get rid of diseased plants.

Trimming is pointless: in the spring the strawberries will again “bloom” with a rainbow of diseases, and new plants will be infected.

This is not autumn care for strawberries - it is a waste of time and the spread of infection.

Important! Pruning in wet, cold weather – cause of fungal diseases: fungal spores and bacterial infection enter damaged tissues.

2. Caring for strawberries in the fall is not planting or replanting

Nonsense? Not at all: strawberries should be planted at the end of August, maximum at the beginning of September. Further planting - seedlings to the wind. And another useless job.

Why? Again, the laying of generative buds. Seedlings planted in the fall will have them in small quantities. And the risk of freezing in winter is great.

Replanting is recommended before the first or second decade of September: even in warm regions, October relocation is fraught with attacks and a decrease in yield. And if you replant, then your own seedlings with big lump earth: yes autumn chores are less traumatic, and may not reduce next year’s harvest as much.

Advice! Frigo seedlings planted in the fall are money down the drain. And seedlings. Alas, only unscrupulous sellers sell frigo seedlings in the fall.

The lifespan of frigo seedlings is short, several months - slightly more than the natural dormant period, and instead of intensive growth, “overdue” seedlings experience slow development.

There will be a queen cell, don’t expect a harvest!

Those who plant beds with Dutch and Italian frigo seedlings know: the mother plant will be good next year, but you can’t expect fruiting the next year.

3. Nitrogen: when autumn strawberry care is dangerous

The most blasphemous thing for a gardener’s ear: after all, caring for strawberries in the fall always means adding nitrogen! And organic matter - manure, compost, humus, and a nitrogen-mineral complex.

From biology lessons: at the end of August, all plants, including strawberries, stop growing green mass - the growth phase of the root system begins.

During this period, nitrogen is almost not absorbed. The plant needs phosphorus to form roots, potassium to build tissues and increase frost resistance, and potassium. And - in the microelements of iron, manganese, molybdenum and others, which allow the absorption of macroelements.

They don't need nitrogen. It is needed after harvesting, in the summer - for bushes that bear fruit.

Meanwhile, nitrogen fertilizers applied in the fall cause fallout and freezing. Why?

• Firstly, nitrogen simulates the growth of green mass and the root system - it delays the dormant phase. The plant enters winter in the growing season, when sap flow is at its peak. And - he dies from the cold.
• Secondly, neither organic matter nor other nitrogen nutrients will be absorbed by the plant in the fall - only in the spring.
• Thirdly, in the spring a good part of the fertilizers will become unavailable.

This is especially true for manure. Introducing it is not an autumn departure, again, but a useless tribute to tradition.

Nitrogen in “agricultural gold” is presented in nitrate form – 50%, and in ammonium form – 50%. The conversion of ammonium nitrogen into the nitrate form occurs both through oxidation and through nitrifying bacteria.

Adding nitrogen in the form of organic matter does not make sense in the fall: nitrate forms of nitrogen are quickly washed out, they are very mobile in the soil.

Thus, in the spring, nitrogen will go into the underlying layers of the soil, and the strawberries will not reach it. As well as ammonium, which turned into a nitrate form over the winter.

In addition, manure in the fall is a breeding ground for pests in the spring: wireworms, May beetles, and others.

If you add organic matter, then in the form of bee pollen. And not in the fall - real strawberry care begins in the spring.

4. When mulch is evil

Caring for strawberries in the fall includes covering - mulching with a plant layer (straw, spruce branches, etc.), agrovolk. How often they recommend and use mulch, which is harmful in the fall. Sawdust and shavings, sunflower and buckwheat husks, peat - but this is pointless and not useful.

Do not cover with straw mulch for the winter: in comparison with non-woven materials, this is a “cold” cover, and can delay fruiting by up to two weeks due to prolonged heating of the soil.

Do not mulch with peat in the fall: it protects from the cold, but does not allow the soil to warm up in the spring.

Peat is mulched in the fall, if the timing of the harvest is not critical, and also in the spring - for nutrition and moisture retention, protection from overheating.

As for sawdust, shavings, and husks, these are moisture-intensive materials, and plants do not face protection from the cold, but rather icing or warming of the roots during a thaw.

5. Do not cover strawberries...

Do not cover with film for the winter without vegetable mulch: the leaves “freeze” when they touch the film, the agrofibre.

If freezing is the only drawback of agrofibre, the best option, then the air-tight film will destroy the plants during the thaw due to condensation, greenhouse effect and airless space.

Also, do not cover it if you want to install arcs for early berries in the spring or simply cover them with spunbond.

Autumn is the time to install arcs for a greenhouse, mini-tunnel and send strawberries for the winter. This is the only way to get early berries.

Unexpected for many experienced gardeners, but true: installing a greenhouse or tunnel shelter in the spring will speed up ripening by only 10-12 days. Simply covering with spunbond in the spring will give practically nothing - at best, 5-7 days. And in the winter greenhouse, tunnel - under them the resting phase will begin later, the buds will have time to form and differentiate, and the growing season will begin earlier.

After picking the berries, the strawberry bushes require special care to restore strength and intensively lay fruiting buds for next year.

At correct implementation summer-autumn preventive measures garden strawberries ( scientific name strawberries) increases fruiting by at least 15-30 percent. The fruits become larger, juicier and sweeter. Any variety, plain or remontant strawberries responds with gratitude to care and care, so berries grown with one’s own hands are noticeably different from store-bought ones.

Caring for strawberries after harvest

At the end of July-beginning of August, after the strawberries have fruited, an appropriate this period care consisting of: trimming mustaches, removing damaged leaves, weeding, fertilizing, hilling bushes.

In July, after the strawberries are harvested, the plants begin to grow new leaves, form new horns, the growth of tendrils with lateral rosettes intensifies, and new flower buds are laid for the new season.

Be sure to weed the beds, that is, remove all weeds. Excess tendrils and dried leaves are also removed. Reddened leaf blades are removed first.

You cannot tear off the foliage and mustache, you can only cut it, otherwise the bush will be damaged and will hurt. For pruning, use only sharp scissors or pruners. To avoid the proliferation of pests, it is better to burn old, cut leaves. If young leaves curl or look corrugated, this indicates that the plants are infected with strawberry mite and they should be treated with a special preparation.

After pruning, the soil around the strawberries is loosened, fertilized, and watered. The row spacing is loosened to a depth of 10 centimeters. Around the plants, loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-7 centimeters. It is advisable to hill up the bushes.

In this case, the roots must be completely covered, and top part the bush should remain above the ground. Under no circumstances should you cover the growing point, that is, the middle of the rosette of leaves.

Fertilizing strawberries in July

For feeding, mineral fertilizers with a wide content of microelements are taken. There are about 30 grams of fertilizer per square meter. A special fertilizer is suitable for this. garden strawberries- Fertika, ammophoska.

Fertilizers containing potassium chloride cannot be used, as it slows down growth and impairs fruiting. Fertilizers are embedded in the soil to a depth of about 5-8 centimeters.

In addition to these fertilizers, you can use last year's humus. It scatters around the bushes and slightly digs into the soil. Humus improves the structure of the soil and makes it more fertile.

You can also fertilize the beds with diluted chicken manure (diluted in a ratio of 1:15 with water). When feeding, we must not forget that this solution should not get on the foliage, otherwise burns will appear on the plants, which provokes the development of diseases. A high concentration of the solution can completely destroy the bush. That's why this type fertilizing is not used so often. And more often in spring than in summer and autumn.

If the weather is dry, the strawberry beds are watered abundantly. Soil moisture should be maintained until the end of the season. Watering is done once a week with a bucket per square meter.

For better effect Drip irrigation can be used. This type of watering allows you to get the right amount of moisture and at the same time the plants do not rot, since the soil does not become waterlogged.

Caring for strawberries in August

To get a bountiful harvest for the next season, at the end of summer perennial plants proper care is required. It includes: pruning leaves, replanting mustaches, preparing plants for winter, that is, covering the bushes.

Old leaves are cut off. Here gardeners act differently, some mow down all the foliage completely, others remove only leaves damaged by disease. If strawberries grow in groups, then the early varieties are processed first. Then come the averages and late varieties, this will allow you to evenly care for the plants and prevent them from overgrowing, which leads to the threat of infection with diseases and pests.

The mustaches with new rosettes and young roots are planted to form young bushes. For this, the strongest specimens are selected, usually this is the first rosette on the antennae. It is recommended to replant strawberry plantings every 3 years, this is how many years the bush bears maximum fruit, then the bush ages and the yield decreases noticeably.

To protect strawberries from various fungi, powdery mildew To control pests, the bushes are sprayed with special preparations or self-prepared products.

For spraying the following preparations are used:

• Karbofos or Actellik is protection against weevils and strawberry mites;
• Azocene and Topaz are used for the prevention and control of powdery mildew;
• one percent lime solution and copper sulfate saves bushes and berries from rot and spotting.

Fertilizing strawberries in August

Feeding the bushes during this period increases the degree of frost resistance of the plant and promotes the formation of future flower buds.

Complex mineral fertilizers should include: 1 part nitrogen, 2 parts phosphorus, 4 parts potassium. IN ready-made version, it could be: Fusco, Autumn, Autumn. All these preparations contain other useful substances in addition to the base.

The Autumn fertilizer does not contain nitrogen, which allows it to be used even at a later period, but this preparation contains all the elements that are necessary for the growth and good fruiting of strawberries.

Suitable organic fertilizers include: peat, horse manure in granules, humus, bone meal.

Mineral and organic fertilizers should not be mixed. In rare cases, when the soil is depleted, mineral and organic fertilizers are introduced over the entire area of ​​the beds. If the strawberry planting area is quite large, this mixture can also be used.

After feeding, the plants are covered with mulch, and for wintering the bushes are covered with leaves, pine needles, potato tops, and straw. Dry weather is chosen for shelter, otherwise the layer may cake and cause the formation of pests and diseases inside the layer or lead to root rot.

The layer of mulch protecting plants from frost should be at least 7 centimeters. In addition to mulch it is used non-woven material, for example, spunbond.

Autumn care for remontant strawberries

Remontant strawberry compared to simple varieties has a short life span and after two years the plants must be replaced by new ones. Some varieties do not produce whiskers and are easier to care for, but they use seeds to propagate them, which complicates the breeding process.

July and August are suitable for renewing strawberry plantations. By autumn the bushes take root and easily endure the winter.

In preparation for winter, flower stalks and leaves are torn off from the mother bushes. The bushes are earthed up so that the roots are covered with soil. But the core of the plant must remain open, otherwise it will begin to rot.

Best reviews from gardeners

I always cut off almost all the leaves, leaving 3-4 leaves. When the first frosts begin, I cover them with spruce branches to prevent them from freezing in winter. Here in the Urals it can be -30 in the winter, so you can’t do without shelter. and I cut off the leaves because by the end of the season they are almost all diseased.