Ventilation system in a 2-storey building. Proper ventilation in a private house with your own hands: system, types, design and calculation

Full use of the attic is impossible without proper and effective ventilation of this space.

An attic is a residential attic that needs air circulation, like any living space in a house, but to create ventilation in a house with an attic you should know some nuances.

This room is located above the main living rooms of the house: bedroom, living room, kitchen, shower room. During human life, heat and moisture are released into the surrounding air, which, according to the laws of convection, rises upward to the ceiling. The ventilation system of the house releases the bulk of the moist air masses into the atmosphere, but some of it penetrates through micro-cracks in the ceiling and ends up in the residential attic.

In an attic that is not equipped with ventilation, moist air masses rise to the ceiling and penetrate through Decoration Materials and the ceiling, and fall into the insulation, and behind it into the under-roof space. When air saturated with water vapor enters a colder zone, it turns into condensation, which settles on the roofing material, insulation and wooden structures, causing them to corrode and lead to their destruction.

Regardless of residential attic space or not, proper ventilation prevents from:

The appearance and accumulation of excess moisture in the under-roof space.
Wetting of the insulation, which prevents it from losing its thermal insulation qualities.
Formation of colonies of fungi and pockets of mold on wooden roofing elements.
Corrosion formation on metal roofing elements.

Attic ventilation above the attic prevents overheating during the hot season, and also prevents the formation of ice on roof overhangs in winter.

Features of proper air exchange

Natural ventilation in the space of a residential attic is carried out through supply and exhaust openings, the area of which depends on its area, in the ratio of 0.2 m 2 /100 m 2. The inflow can be carried out through valves installed in the attic windows. Moist air is removed through aerators mounted in the roof plane or at the roof ridge.

By observing the rule of ratio of the area of supply and exhaust openings to the area of the attic space, the attic can be ventilated through the gables. Air flow is carried out through wall supply valves installed in the lower part of the gable, and exhaust through adjustable ventilation grates, mounted in the upper part of the opposite pediment.

Ventilation of the roof and under-roof space is most often done using soffits. These devices are nothing more than perforated panel, made of metal or plastic, and intended for covering eaves overhangs. They can be used installed around the perimeter of the house, or alternating with non-perforated panels.

Soffits can be used as ventilation elements only if, when installing the roofing “pie,” gaps were provided for the movement of air flows along the entire roof.

Methods for ventilating a residential attic

Today there are several main options for ventilation systems. Air circulation can be natural or forced. The natural movement of air masses occurs due to the difference in temperature between atmospheric and internal air. Forced movement is carried out using fans, supply and (or) exhaust.

Most simple option is the use of natural inflow and exhaust of air mixture from the attic floor. This type of air exchange is most often chosen by those who do their own attic ventilation.
With complex attic geometry, you can use the method of creating excess pressure in its space using forced inflow. Thanks to this solution, the supply air masses will displace the exhaust air masses through natural exhaust openings, aerators, etc.
With short exhaust ducts, they may not have sufficient draft to effective removal air from a residential attic. That is why many developers equip hoods with fans. The influx of air masses, in this case, can also be carried out both with natural movement of air flow and with forced one.
The most complex ventilation system is the mechanically driven system. With this solution, powerful exhaust fans, which are mounted in the space above the attic. Air flow is carried out supply fans, mounted in the openings of the gables.

To ensure that the created forced ventilation system does not create discomfort, you should know that the performance of the exhaust fans must be equal to the performance of the supply mechanisms.

Equipped attic space - the attic - has become widespread relatively recently. Just a few decades ago, owners of private houses did not think about the functionality of this special place. Now everything is different - a useful habitable area will not hurt anyone. The main thing is to create proper air exchange on it. Attic ventilation can not only reduce energy losses, but also extend the life of the roof.

Functions of attic ventilation

During particularly hot periods, the ventilation system eliminates stuffiness, but in winter it effectively prevents cold and moisture from entering the room. That is why it is important correct installation ventilation system with your own hands, because:

the system eliminates moisture and prevents the formation of dampness in the insulating material - it is thanks to ventilation that the heat insulator maintains its functionality for many years, preventing the penetration of heat and cold;
with properly created ventilation, the formation of fungus and mold is minimized, thereby eliminating the possibility of premature destruction wooden elements roofs;
in extreme heat, it prevents hot air from entering the house;
prevents the accumulation of moisture, thereby preventing corrosion that negatively affects metal tiles;
eliminates the formation of icicles under the eaves in severe frosts;
saves energy resources, thereby reducing the costs required to heat a residential attic in winter.

Natural ventilation in the attic

The natural ventilation system directly depends on the correct installation insulating materials. A prerequisite for laying insulation is the presence of ventilation spaces between the layers of the material used and under the roof surface. Natural ventilation is based on the creation of natural draft, thanks to which there is constant flow air masses total area ventilation ducts should be 0.2% of the total attic area. The simplest installation option is to route the channels through the gables. This technology can be applied to non-stone roofing elements.

The size of the gap for free air exchange depends on roofing material which is used for the roof:

when using metal tiles, tiles, metal profiles, the gap should be more than 25 mm;
when using soft materials and flat products, the space for air flow should be more than 50 mm;
when installing waterproofing and insulation, the space between them should be from 20 to 30 mm.

Important! To create high-quality natural ventilation above the attic space, it is necessary to create a hermetically sealed separation of the ventilation cavities, thanks to which natural ventilation attic floor will be carried out evenly, without the formation of “dead” zones.

Installation of natural ventilation

A natural ventilation system is created during roof installation. To implement air exchange, you will need to install special elements responsible for air exchange under the roof. For air flow, soffits are used, which are installed around the perimeter of the building. The perforated surface allows air to enter the attic. To remove exhaust air, point or continuous aerators are used, which are installed on the slope of the roof.

Special aerators are mounted on the ridge. It is thanks to ridge aerators that the efficiency of all natural ventilation increases, because the area of the outlet surfaces of the elements is much larger than that of conventional ones. The number of aerators is calculated individually and depends on the total roof area. For 100 m2 of area to be ventilated, 2 aerators are installed.

Important! Natural ventilation functions flawlessly only in the cold season, since air exchange requires a difference in temperature outside and inside the room. This is why ventilation mansard roof requires installation compulsory system for air exchange.

Ventilation of a residential attic using dormer windows

The installation of a dormer window is carried out in accordance with SNiP II-26, SNiP 21-01:

installation dormer windows possible with a roof slope of more than 35 degrees;
the minimum size of the doors is 0.6x0.8 m;
The permissible size of dormer windows is 1.2x0.8 m.

The shapes of dormer windows in a private house can be different and depend on the style of the building. Dormer windows are installed using frames during roof construction, forming an integral structure. Ventilation using dormer windows improves the aesthetics of the roof and its functionality.

For pitched roof ideal option are windows with one inclined plane. Installation diagram: 2 beams are located at the distance required by SNiP and are fixed using vertical racks, connected at the top by a jumper. External sides are sheathed facing material, a decorative grille is installed on the façade side.

Single ventilated gap system

When arranging the ventilation system of a pitched roof, it is worth considering that the size of the ventilation duct directly depends on the length of the slopes and the angle of the roof.

According to SNiP II-26-76:

the gap height is no more than 5 cm, an increase in which can lead to the formation of turbulence, which will significantly reduce air exchange;
for a coating length of more than 10 m, it is required forced ventilation;
The openings of the ventilation system must be reliably protected from debris.

Forced attic ventilation

When installing forced air exchange, a fan is installed in the ventilation duct. It is especially necessary to install the device in the presence of short ventilation ducts that are not capable of providing high-quality draft. When installing a fan in a country house, the air flow is installed in the same way as when natural system. Installed roof fan With outside at a distance of more than 8 m from the inlet openings. It is also very important that the fan is not installed close to windows, as exhaust air may be sucked into them.

The performance of a roof-mounted fan depends on:

impeller dimensions: larger diameter – higher productivity;
blade bend angle: the larger it is, the greater the amount of air will be processed;
electric motor power.

The best way to improve performance is to install multiple fans. Using a powerful cooler is impractical.

Important! To prevent the formation of condensation, the fan must be insulated using special materials, for example, using mineral wool.

The attic ventilation system is very important element creating comfortable conditions in the home. It must be installed in accordance with regulatory requirements construction industry. As a rule, the ventilation system is developed at the design stage of the building itself and installed at the time the roof is erected.

02.02.2012, 08:32

There are plenty of ways to heat the second floor with a stove. But I want to discuss one more thing.
The Internet is full of reviews where they say that they do not make any additional devices for heating the second floor at all. Warm air itself goes upstairs through the staircase. There are even reports that heat is lost too rapidly to the second floor, which leads to uneven heating: it’s too hot at the top and too cold at the bottom.

The idea is that, without making any special devices for heating the second floor, you can achieve optimal temperatures It's just a matter of adjusting the ventilation.

So far the design appears to be like this. Each room above should have a pair of air ducts: one from the ceiling of the first floor to the ceiling of the second, and the second from the floor of the second floor to the floor of the first, closer to the furnace firebox. The flow-regulating grid can be placed on any of the pipes - the effect should be the same.

The mechanism is as follows. Fresh dry street air is sucked in through the underground and the cracks between the stove and the floor, the surface of the wall heats this dry air, it rises to the ceiling of the first floor and from there it partially reaches the ceiling of the second floor. There it pushes the damp, polluted, cooled air down and through the second air duct directs it to the furnace firebox, from where it is discharged outside.

The question regarding the necessary and sufficient sizes of air ducts is still unclear to me.

02.02.2012, 08:54

By the way, electronics lovers can install automatic controls on the control grilles, which will monitor the equalization of temperature on the ground floor and in different rooms second. And if the second floor is not used, simply block it off, or work in defrost mode.

Grandfather Jedi

02.02.2012, 14:46

zttt, Let's draw?

02.02.2012, 15:06

02.02.2012, 15:25

won't it be hot?
2nd floor is hot, 1st floor is cold

02.02.2012, 17:19

I don’t understand how the air from the floor of the 2nd floor will get into the furnace vent without being disturbed by the air of the first floor.

Andrey Dachnik

02.02.2012, 17:59

Cold air is heavier and will sink, displacing warm air.

02.02.2012, 18:16

Good question. I even began to imagine the whole process a little better while I was thinking about the answer to it.
The pressure in each pipe is proportional to the density difference. The density difference is a function of temperature and humidity. If we neglect humidity, then the pipes begin to work when a temperature difference arises between the ceilings and/or floors. Those. such a system should equalize the temperatures in both rooms. If the furnace is running and hot air accumulates under the ceiling, it begins to rise, and the air from the floor begins to be pushed down. If the furnace is not working, but the air near the floor of the second floor has cooled more than that of the floor of the first floor, then the exchange begins again and the temperature equalizes.
If we take into account humidity, the picture will be somewhat more complicated. There will definitely be slightly higher humidity on the second floor. Perhaps this can be overcome by adjusting the height of the pipes, but you need to think about it.

02.02.2012, 18:32

But this is still purely theoretical reasoning.

02.02.2012, 18:48

By the way, in such a scheme you don’t even need to install dampers: the temperature itself should equalize. You just need to ensure the airtightness of the rooms on the top floor. Otherwise, all the warm air will go there, and it will be cold below.
exactly!
TIGHT!
Without this it’s a bit difficult... by the way, there’s also an ambush - warm air under the ceiling on the first floor heats the floor of the second floor... or should we insulate it here too?
although if fans are installed in the air ducts, all problems are solved. but as I understand it, this is an electrically independent concept.

02.02.2012, 20:17

Let the heat flow through the floor. Everything will be settled. I would like to avoid electricity.

03.02.2012, 11:59

I thought some more, did some digital wandering, and this is what comes out.
Flows depend very little on humidity. Within a couple of degrees with a difference in humidity from 0 to 100%.
The air speed in the pipes is quite stable and in most cases ranges from 1 to 3 meters per second. According to snips, no more than 5 m/s. There is no need to install pipes that are too thick. My bedrooms are approximately 25 cubic meters. With a pipe of 150, the air should be completely exchanged in about half an hour.
Both pipes work together only when the room is completely enclosed. In this case, there will be flow if for at least one pipe the temperature at the bottom is higher than the temperature at the top.
If the door is opened, the planned process is interrupted and the heat simply begins to escape upward. If it is warmer at the top than at the bottom, the ventilation stops. That is why you should not make very thick air ducts. So that when open door the air moving upward was slower.

In practice, the problem of upward movement of heat exists with absolutely any type of heating. The good thing about this system is that the heat exchange stops after the door is closed. After this, the stove, which is very powerful and heat-intensive since it must heat two floors, begins to heat only the lower floor. The upper floor gradually cools down on its own, because there are no heat sources there. Thus, gradually everything returns to normal and the temperatures level out.

In general, I really liked the system. If no one finds any obvious mistakes before the summer, then I’ll do just that. We just need to figure out how to isolate the two floors now. There was no door on the stairs.

Finally, a picture of the calculated air velocities in a vertical pipe at different temperatures at the top and bottom. It depends little on the diameter, in this case it is 150 mm.
401

03.02.2012, 12:09

Well, the problem will not be solved this way. Essentially, a solution to the problem of air recovery through an inconvenient place.
Place a fan in one pipe, you don’t need a second one at all, the air will rise to the second floor anyway. The pipe exits to the furnace and forward. Turn on synchronously with the ignition of the stove. Electricity consumption is minimal; probably ten years of work will exceed the cost of laying a second pipe.

03.02.2012, 12:39

1. If the doors and windows are closed, then air will not flow through one pipe, even with a fan, even without a fan. Don't believe me? Try forcing air into the bottle. You can blow as much as you like, but you’d rather burst yourself than inflate it with warmth.

2. What are you going to do when the power goes out? Or are you going to fence off the uninterruptible power supply system? Well, you see what unexpected expenses arose.

3. The heat itself goes up without any fans. I'm telling you: without fans, the flow rate is 1-3 meters per second. It's simply not possible anymore. And in general, people are complaining that without any radiators or fans, it’s hot upstairs, and downstairs it’s freezing cold. The task is not just to heat the second floor, but also to heat it so that it is comfortable, i.e. the temperature below and above was not much different.

4. In addition to heating, there is a ventilation problem. I don’t really understand how you will solve this with fans. The fans just stupidly mix good and bad air and it will be indiscriminately thrown out into the chimney. In total, it turns out that you will have a disgusting indoor climate with a fan, and the costs of ventilation (heating the exhaust air) will be quite considerable.

Grandfather Jedi

03.02.2012, 12:46

Electricity consumption is minimal; probably ten years of work will exceed the cost of laying a second pipe.
TB 10 (80 m3/h) - 20 W. So consider it.
True, there is no pressure in the air duct...
402

03.02.2012, 16:52

once again - in rattling rooms (or the entire 2nd floor), the system will work. if they are not airtight, it is hot on the second floor, cold on the first floor.
the cold at first can be overcome due to “radiant heating” from the stove. but the heat on the second - no way.

Grandfather Jedi

03.02.2012, 17:00

I’m glad that we got to this point before anyone invested their soul and money.

03.02.2012, 18:51

As I understand it, air must be supplied to the stove, which is already stale and spoiled, but where fresh air comes from is not discussed at all. The stove de facto burns even without pumping air.
The option of spontaneous mutual replacement of air between floors seems unrealistic, because there is always a way for warm air bypassing the pipe. Sealing floors belongs to the category of science fiction and nonsense. It’s also forbidden for children to run from floor to floor, because it’s not good...
Let’s say a pump, of course it won’t be able to pump 80 cubic meters per hour through a pipe, but the stove doesn’t need that much, because it’s not turbocharged, but regular.

The option of turning off the electricity while firing the stove is not critical, it will be heated anyway :). It seems more likely that it is not a power outage, but a lack of firewood.

03.02.2012, 19:03

the cold at first can be overcome due to “radiant heating” from the stove. but the heat on the second - no way.
This is exactly what I discussed in my answer above. Read it again carefully.
[Links are available to registered users only]
I'll just add...
1. Tightness is a relative concept. It is enough to keep the doors closed.
2. The system itself comes into balance after closing the doors, even if it became hot upstairs due to the forgetfulness of household members.
3. In radiator heating, the problem of a hot second floor will not go away. It is the nature of warm air to rise. So you still need to isolate the second floor from the first with any heating system.

I actually found a catch, but it does not apply to this system. I just recalculated the heat loss again and it turns out that at -15 (the most common temperature) I will have about 4.5 kW, and at -35 (sometimes it happens) already somewhere around 7.5-8 kW. A stove with such parameters will not fit into the provided space (1.5x1.5m).
For now I’m looking towards the 16kW KIKsP. But I don’t like it because its heat-accumulating properties will be somewhat worse due to the lower temperature in the register area.

03.02.2012, 19:09

Actually, it’s some kind of salad, well, at least read what it’s about we're talking about at the topikaster.
This primarily applies to you. Namely:

And where fresh comes from was not discussed at all
The first post in the topic:

The mechanism is as follows. Fresh dry street air is sucked in through the underground and the cracks between the stove and the floor, the surface of the wall heats this dry air...

The pump is only needed when the stove is heating up; the rest of the time it doesn’t really do anything except stir the air.
The option of turning off the electricity while firing the stove is not critical, it will be heated anyway

03.02.2012, 23:33

This primarily applies to you. Namely:

The first post in the topic:

In general, you have learned to criticize, now it’s time to learn to understand what you criticize.

It will be drowning. Only without electricity, the temperature on your first floor will rise to 60 degrees and all residents will suffer heatstroke if they do not retreat in time.
Well, okay, I missed that the air was coming from the floor, although this option in itself looks gloomy.
But about 60 degrees, it’s rare nonsense. Well, there is no electricity, open the doors (or are they electric?) and the heat will go upstairs.
In general, okay, the topic is far-fetched and uninteresting.

Grandfather Jedi

04.02.2012, 03:51

Air from the underground into the firebox is a successful and very common option. All you need is a gate

04.02.2012, 14:24

Good afternoon everyone!
I’ll make a reservation right away that I’m not particularly good at all sorts of formulas (sem heat, conduction heat, etc.). This is what I am ALL ABOUT!!! Interested! During combustion (combustion), air (oxygen) is needed, which is taken from the room in which the stove (boiler) is located, and it enters this room (by suction) from the street! That is, passing through everything that is not dense (doors, windows) is heated room air(thereby cooling it!!!). The stove intake is sucked into the air and flies out into the chimney!!!
The question is this: If we make a two-flow system for supplying air to the boiler??? Thus, we will achieve a closed air flow system (street - boiler - streets) and not (street - apartment - boiler - street)!!! We will get that the apartment will become like a thermos to hold warm air in itself and not filter it through itself!
Is such a system feasible? Its pros and cons???
For greater clarity, I drew a small model of the operating principle of the system.
Please write what you think about this! Thanks in advance!!!416

04.02.2012, 20:11

This is a perpetual motion machine. In terms of energy, you will not save on this.
The temperature of the exhaust gases should be about 120 degrees, otherwise condensation will form in the pipes. All modern furnaces and boilers are quite capable of providing exactly this temperature without any distortions with counterflows.

Now about double-circuit. In any case, the furnace requires air to operate. It is heated in the oven, which wastes energy, is burned and thrown out into the street.
Now you are isolating the flows to the furnace and inside the house. The air inside the house needs to be changed in the same way, since the residents saturate it carbon dioxide and water vapor. Those. you again need to suck in air from the street, heat it again and throw it out into the street again. As you can see, in this scheme the air is heated twice, whereas in the case of a stove only once.
In fact, double-circuit (without countercurrent) is used almost always when the boiler is located outside the heated room. Heating plants also burn fuel and air, which requires energy to heat. And in any room that is heated by a heating plant, ventilation operates, which again heats the air and again throws it out into the street.

Make the ventilation system in exactly the same way! In two streams! So, as far as I know, they do it in new energy-saving houses
This is called recovery. IN stove heating there is no point in it, because the air is not released into the street, but only smoke is released.

Nowadays there are a lot of people against the air from underground - like radon there is a hell of a lot, and therefore it is better to isolate the house from the underground if possible.
In fact, it is customary to ventilate the underground. And if you are afraid of radon, then the underground should not be made of earth, but at least the floor should be concreted. In any case, radon is a much less evil than a fan whirring in the room around the clock :)

Big Vacation home- the dream of many families. But in order for the building to be comfortable for living, it is necessary to provide for the presence of all necessary communications in it at the design stage. One of them is ventilation.

An established air exchange system in the house will provide:

supply of oxygen to the premises;
protecting rooms from dampness, mold and mildew;
comfortable household and optimal sanitary conditions for human life.

Which rooms need ventilation?

For normal life, a person needs pure oxygen. Therefore, its supply should be ensured in living rooms, such as the bedroom, living room, and children's room. Service areas in the house (bathroom, etc.) also need constant circulation. Here there is often high humidity and accumulation of odors that need to be removed outside. Ventilation of these premises will reduce the formation of dust, dirt, excessive stuffiness, condensation, the spread of harmful microorganisms, and mold.

Ventilation system, methods of organization

There are two main types of air exchange arrangement in residential buildings:

natural (natural);
mechanical (forced).

Features of the arrangement and principle of operation of natural ventilation of a private house

Natural air exchange in residential buildings is carried out based on the difference in pressure inside and outside the house, as well as the effect of wind on the building. How it works?

The temperature inside the house is higher than outside, so the oxygen there has a lighter structure. Thanks to this, he climbs the shafts and goes out into the street. A vacuum arises in the room, which draws fresh air from the street through the openings in the building envelope. The incoming masses have a heavy structure, so they are located at the bottom of the premises. Under their influence, light warm air is forced out of the rooms.

The wind accelerates the circulation of air masses. As the difference in temperature inside and outside the cottage and wind speed increases, the supply of freshness to the house increases. Previously, the places where it entered were leaks in windows, doors, and porous walls. But modern systems insulation, as well as plastic windows designed, so they have no gaps for air supply. In this case, the inflow is carried out through special valves mounted in the windows or walls of the building.

Waste oxygen enters the openings of the vertical ventilation ducts of the house, located in the kitchen and bathroom, and is discharged outside through them. Replenishment of fresh water occurs through ventilation (opening windows, doors, transoms).

Advantages and disadvantages of the system

Natural air exchange in the house has the following advantages:

efficiency. The movement of air flows is carried out without the use of additional equipment;
no accidents. The ventilation design is extremely simple, does not depend on the power supply, and does not require regular maintenance;
quiet operation;
Possibility of combination with filtration and air conditioning systems.

The main disadvantage of natural ventilation is poor air exchange, which leads to the formation of condensation, accumulation unpleasant odors, the occurrence of mold and mildew. This threatens not only the gradual destruction of the house, but also the health of the people living in it.

The natural ventilation system does not allow you to regulate the volume of air removed and supplied to the premises. The recycled stream either does not have time to be discharged outside, or is removed too quickly, causing heat loss in the house. IN summer time, when the temperature inside and outside the house is almost the same, the draft disappears and the air movement in the system stops. Therefore, natural circulation in modern construction houses are practically not used. It is used in combination with a mechanical system.

Forced ventilation - features, types

This is an artificially organized system, the movement of oxygen in which is carried out through the use of injection devices (fans, pumps, compressors). It is used in private buildings where natural ventilation is not provided or does not work. Advantages of mechanical organization:

works autonomously, regardless of weather conditions (pressure, temperature, wind);
allows you to prepare the air supplied to the premises to a comfortable state (heat/cool, humidify/dry, purify).

Disadvantages of the forced scheme for mansions:

significant costs for setting up the system, purchasing equipment, paying for electricity;
the need for regular maintenance.

Mechanical air exchange in a private house can be arranged in several ways. There are different types of ventilation:

supply - provides forced supply from the outside;
exhaust - removes the processed flow from the premises mechanically;
supply and exhaust - inflow and supply in the house are organized artificially.

Supply ventilation in a private house

This system is designed to replace exhaust air in the house with fresh air. It consists of:

air intake;
heating and cooling devices;
cleaning filters;
devices supplying air to rooms;
sound-absorbing devices.

Through air valve clean air enters the system, undergoes certain processing, is filtered, and, using a fan, is distributed throughout the rooms in the house. Getting into the rooms, it displaces the waste stream. The supplied air can be additionally cooled or heated.

Supply ventilation systems are:

duct - air circulation is carried out through pipes;
channelless - the flow is supplied to the room through holes in the walls and windows.

According to the device method, they are distinguished:

stacked ventilation systems, consisting of separate units connected by one air duct;
monoblock - all devices are collected in one compact housing.

Supply installation schemes have the following advantages:

the ability to regulate the temperature and volume of oxygen supplied;
compact dimensions;
functionality (they have additional devices for cleaning, heating, cooling the supplied air);
ease of installation and maintenance.

The disadvantages of this type of ventilation can be identified:

noisiness. During operation, the system units produce sounds, so it is necessary to provide a noise suppressor and install the equipment away from the living rooms in the house;
the need for space to install all its elements (this will be required when installing a typesetting system);
need for regular maintenance.

Exhaust ventilation in a private house

When installing this system, clean air enters the rooms through windows, doors, and special valves, and exhaust air is removed using exhaust fans. These devices are installed in the most problematic areas of the house (kitchen, bathroom); they come in wall and duct types.

Pros of this installation:

control of the volume of exhaust air;
independence from environmental conditions;
ease of installation.

Among the disadvantages of the system:

inability to control the amount of air supplied to the house;
costs for the purchase of equipment, electricity;
the need for regular maintenance.

Ventilation using supply and exhaust units

How to make ventilation in a private house With metal-plastic windows, decorated with modern thermal insulation materials? For this you need quality system, allowing you to supply fresh air and remove exhaust air automatically. Air handling units will solve this problem.

They provide for the organization of two parallel flows:

for exhaust air removal;
for serving fresh.

These settings allow you to regulate the volume of output and supply flows, allowing you to maintain optimal level humidity in the premises of the house. Main elements of the supply and exhaust system:

air ducts - intended for supplying and removing air masses. They form two parallel lines, consisting of pipes and fittings (tees, rotating elements). Air ducts differ in shape (round, rectangular), cross-sectional area, rigidity (made from aluminum foil, galvanized sheet, plastic);
fan - provides the pressure in the ventilation system necessary for supplying and removing air. It can be installed on the roof of the building, directly in the air duct, or on a special support;
air intake grille - through them, air from the street enters the supply channel. Also, these elements protect the system from foreign objects, rodents, birds, precipitation;
air valve - prevents air from entering the system when it is off. It can operate on an electric drive, in automatic mode, and can also be equipped with electric heating that prevents freezing of the sashes;
filters - protect ventilated rooms and the system itself from insects, dust, and other small particles. They require regular cleaning (recommended once a month);
heater - heats the air supplied to the premises during the cold season. This device can be water (suitable for large cottages) and electric (used in small houses);
noise mufflers - prevent sounds from operating devices from spreading through the pipe system. They are tubular, plate, chamber, cellular. Once air enters them, it passes through special barriers (perforated channels, tubes or plates), as a result of which its intensity decreases. Installing a silencer is not always necessary. Sometimes, to reduce the intensity of sounds in the system, it is enough to reduce the speed of the installation and ensure sound insulation of the fans;
air intakes and distributors. The first serve to enter the flow into the system, the second - to distribute it evenly throughout the room. These elements are presented in the form of grilles and diffusers of round and rectangular shapes. They are mounted on the walls or ceiling of the room;
control system. It can be mechanical (represented by a switch) or automatic (operation is regulated by a remote control). Its main elements are thermo- and hydrostats, pressure gauges;
security system - represented by a set of additional devices that protect ventilation elements from overheating and power surges.

Improved model supply and exhaust ventilation is a recovery type system. It ensures efficient circulation in the house without loss of heat. This ventilation system is equipped with a recuperator, which reduces the cost of heating air coming from the street. The influent masses are heated by the heat of recycled streams removed from the house. This is the most effective and energy-efficient way to organize air exchange in residential buildings, although it is the most expensive.

Gas ventilation in a private house

Availability in the house gas appliances places increased demands on the arrangement of circulation in rooms. Impaired traction can cause poisoning from combustion products.

For normal operation gas installations oxygen is needed. If there is not enough of it, the air in the room is discharged. As a result, reverse draft occurs, and instead of the chimney, combustion products enter the surrounding space. They can cause malaise, severe headaches, loss of consciousness in a person, and even complete respiratory arrest.

Requirements for ventilation of a gas boiler room

Air exchange in a room with a heating device operating at natural gas, must be organized according to the following technical requirements:

there are no more than two gas units per chimney;
combustion products must enter the chimney from different levels (from a distance of more than 50 cm). With a single-level supply, a cut of the same height is installed in the channel;
to prevent soot from leaking and carbon monoxide into the premises of the house, the boiler ventilation system should be sealed. Processing of joints and seams is carried out with material resistant to high temperatures;
all elements of the exchange system must be thermally insulated to prevent fire.

Ventilation of the boiler room is constructed on the basis of the following calculation: air outflow = air exchange x 3.

Air supply = outflow + volume of oxygen required for the combustion process.

Methods for ventilating a gas boiler room

Air exchange in the room where it is located gas equipment, can be organized using:

natural and mechanical ventilation traction-based. Natural circulation is the result of a pressure difference inside the house and outside. During mechanical ventilation, draft is generated by a fan;
supply, exhaust, or combined ventilation systems, organized according to their intended purpose. Air forced into the room puts pressure on the exhaust flow, pushing it out. Also, oxygen can be supplied to the boiler room naturally and removed mechanically. A combined system ( supply and exhaust system), operating efficiently in any weather, since supply and discharge are carried out mechanically;
channelless or channel (depending on constructive solution cottage). In the first case, the boiler room is connected through holes to another room, from where the waste stream is discharged into the air duct. In the second case, it is laid a complex system pipes that provide exchange in all rooms of the house.

Advice: to improve the natural ventilation of a gas boiler room, it is better to additionally install an exhaust fan, which will ensure the movement of air masses in the absence of draft.

Heating devices closed type, operating on natural gas, are equipped with a coaxial (double) ventilation duct. According to him inner tube combustion products are removed, and fresh air is supplied to the burner through the external one.

If the house has a gas boiler with a combustion chamber open type, follows:

install a pipe to remove carbon monoxide to the street;
arrange a general air exchange system in the room;
arrange the supply of oxygen to the boiler.

Note: oxygen can enter the room from the street through cracks and gaps in windows and doors. If the room is sealed hermetically, you will need to organize a supply fresh air in a forced way.

Proper ventilation in a private home

Organizing oxygen exchange will ensure a favorable microclimate in the house, the health of its inhabitants and the safety of the structure itself. How to arrange it correctly?

Norms and rules for home ventilation

To create a cottage in residential and office premises optimal conditions for human life, it is necessary that 60 m 3 of oxygen (minimum 20 m 3) enter each of them in 1 hour. Comfortable air humidity is 50%, and its exchange rate is 0.5 m/s.

This can be achieved through proper system design. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the air exchange rate for rooms for different purposes. For a bathroom this figure is 50 m3, a common bathroom - 25 m3, a kitchen - 90 m3. Not only service rooms should be ventilated, but also living rooms, utility rooms. To form a calculated hood, it is necessary to summarize the air exchange rates of each compartment of the house. In this case, it is desirable that actual ventilation exceeds the minimum standards.

Designing an air exchange system in a house

Development of a home ventilation project includes:

selection of equipment;
drawing up a communications wiring diagram taking into account architectural, construction, sanitary, and economic criteria.

The purpose of this work is to develop a system that will cope with the supply and exhaust of air, within the estimated volume calculated for the house. The project should not only ensure uninterrupted ventilation of the premises, but also Free access to all structural elements (assemblies, chambers). This is necessary for quick fix problems and regular maintenance.

For circulation to work well, it is important to carefully select all equipment. It should last as long as possible. The devices used should not spoil the architecture of the house, so it is better to install them in a hidden way.

When designing cottage ventilation, it is important that the system complies with sanitary and epidemiological standards. It must not only cope with the supply/removal of air masses, but also operate as silently as possible. Don't forget about the efficiency of the system. But the desire to reduce installation costs should not affect the quality of the installation. The main design task is to develop optimal option ventilation of the house, taking into account all the above criteria.

The preparation of a project by a contractor begins with the formation of technical specifications. It contains all the criteria by which the ventilation system should be laid, as well as the customer’s wishes.

Calculation of ventilation in a private house

The operation of the system depends on whether the volume of air supplied and exhausted corresponds to the conditions of the house. This can be calculated using special formulas. The basis is the house plan, which indicates the purpose and area of each room.

First, the air exchange rate is calculated - an indicator that determines how many times in 1 hour the air in the room is completely changed. For most residential premises it can be single, for kitchens, bathrooms, boiler rooms - 2-3 times. It is also necessary to take into account the people living in the house.

The air exchange rate is calculated using the formula: L(performance air handling unit, m3/h) = n(multiplicity rate for a specific room) *V(room volume).

Calculation of air exchange, taking into account the number of people living in the house, is carried out according to the formula: L = N(number of residents) * L(air intended for one person is the norm). By doing physical activity one individual needs air renewal - 30 m 3 / h, in a calm state - 20 m 3 / h.

Please note: having calculated the air exchange rate by the frequency and the number of residents, they are guided by the larger of these values.

Equipment selection

Criteria by which the main system settings are selected:

power, performance;
operating pressure;
noise level emitted.

The speed of movement along the highways directly depends on their cross-section, as well as the power of the fan. But you should also take into account that the air ducts provide a certain resistance, which reduces the performance of the air handling unit.

Note: the productivity of the cottage ventilation system should be in the range of 1000-3000 m 3 /h.

At the stage of developing a feasibility study, the type, quantity and power of system elements are determined, its preliminary cost is compiled, and optimization adjustments are made. After this, a working design is drawn up, based on high-precision calculations of air exchange and heat release of a particular house. The devices and air distributors in it are selected according to.

Ventilation diagram for a private house

The air distribution network consists of pipes, fittings (rotating elements, splitters, adapters), distribution devices (diffusers, grilles). Based on this, you can determine:

fan operating pressure - it depends on technical parameters unit, type and diameter of air ducts, number of rotary and connecting elements air distributors used. The longer the line and the more different connectors, turns, and adapters there are on it, the greater the pressure the fan should create;
the speed of movement of air masses depends on the diameter of the highways. For residential buildings this is 2.5-4 m/s;
noise level - depends on the cross-section of the highways and the speed of air movement along them. Quiet operation of the ventilation system will be ensured by pipes large diameter. If it is not possible to install them, use lines with a cross-section of 160-250 mm, equipped with distribution grids 20x20, or 20x30 cm.

According to the interstate standard (GOST 21.602-2003), the diagram must show all elements of the ventilation system. They are designated by certain symbols and signed.

To make it comfortable and safe for a person, it is necessary to organize its ventilation. This will not only provide a favorable microclimate, but will also extend the operational life of the structure itself. There are several types of indoor air exchange arrangements. The choice of a specific system depends on the area design features home, number of people living in it, budget. For it to work effectively, it is better to entrust its planning and installation to professionals with experience in this field.

It is obvious that for comfortable life The house needs efficient air exchange. Today we will talk about how to improve ventilation in the attic - a very specific area.

The attic, a room under the roof, receives warm air saturated with water vapor from the lower rooms. It not only creates discomfort, but also poses a threat to the wooden roof structure and fiber insulation. When it enters a cold zone (under the roof), steam turns into condensation and moistens materials that do not tolerate the effects of water well. Therefore, to remove moist warm air, you need to provide an exhaust hood.

Air exchange can be natural (air moves by gravity due to draft) and forced (due to an electric fan).

There are four main solutions for ventilation:

with natural inflow and exhaust;
with forced inflow and natural exhaust;
with natural influx and forced exhaust;
with forced inflow and exhaust.

The first option is the cheapest. In this case, a continuous supply of fresh air is provided by window or wall supply devices (valves). Built into the window, they ventilate the room when the sash is closed. Window valves are available for both conventional and skylights. Moreover, attic rooms can boast labyrinthine channels that prevent the formation of drafts. But their productivity is small - up to 30-50 m³/h. There are also models with a window valve combined with a handle for opening the sash.

But for the wall valve you will have to make a hole in external wall. This device consists of an air duct pipe with a diameter of 80-160 mm, an air intake grille that is installed outside, and a head with an air flow regulator mounted from the inside. The operating principle of the valve varies. For example, in humidified models, a moisture-sensitive sensor located in the room is connected to an external damper. It changes the flow area depending on the level of humidity in the room, thereby controlling the air flow.

As for the hood, it is organized using ventilation ducts, which are laid inside the building during the construction stage. The inlets are made under the ceiling, where heated air accumulates, and the outlets are on the roof.

It is recommended to make the outlet openings of the ventilation ducts as close as possible to the ridge. This is necessary to improve traction.

A system with natural inflow and exhaust has a big drawback: it is effective only in the cold season. The fact is that air circulation requires a large difference between the temperature outside and in the building, which cannot exist in the warm months. A system with natural inflow and forced exhaust does not have this drawback. It involves the use of the same supply valves (wall and window). However, the exhaust is carried out by mechanical fans built into the exhaust ducts. Let's take a closer look at them.

Eat finished goods— waterproofed exits of ventilation pipes to the roof with a fan inserted into the head. There are also cased exhaust fans with a capacity of 80 to 7000 m 3 /h, mounted in “mini-attics”. This means that they remain between the horizontal ceiling of the attic space and the ridge of the roof. Moreover, the inlet openings are closed with grilles with adjustable dampers, which allows you to control the volume of warm air removed and thereby save heat. Such exhaust fans operate with low noise levels and are not audible in residential areas. In addition, they have minimum consumption electricity, which means their work won’t cost a pretty penny.

Another option is the so-called hybrid ventilation. In this case, there is a mechanical fan on the natural exhaust ducts low pressure. During the cold season, it does not work, and its blades are designed so as not to interfere with natural draft. However, in summer it turns on, maintaining a pressure in the channel comparable to natural draft.

Completely forced ventilation is an expensive solution and, according to many experts, hardly justified in a country house.

At the end of the topic, we note that completely forced ventilation makes sense only when a country house is located near a busy highway or people who suffer from allergies live in it. In other cases, you can look for a compromise solution to really breathe clean air, and not by forcefully entering the rooms, passing through a mechanical fan (with lubricant), a filter (clogged with dust) and air ducts that are not impeccably clean.