Stepped plasterboard ceiling (steps on the ceiling). Installation of drywall: how to sheathe inclined planes on your own Sheathe the walls of the flight of stairs with drywall

The ceiling in the kitchen was made obliquely (roof slope) and it was required to level it with the help of a plasterboard construction. But if you make it completely flat and align it with the lower tier, then it would drop significantly, so I decided that the best way to mount a sloping ceiling is a stepped method. The stepped ceiling gradually levels the surface, not abruptly and does not steal extra centimeters. In this article, I will tell you how to install a stepped plasterboard ceiling with your own hands in the kitchen and subsequently decorate it with Venetian plaster under a blue sky with clouds.

This is what the ceiling looked like before installation.

First, the ceiling is insulated with foamed polyethylene, fixing it on self-tapping screws directly to the ceiling. Its surface is wooden, so drilling was not necessary.

Further, a frame is mounted from metal profiles under the steps on the ceiling, dividing the width of the ceiling into three parts and a frame is assembled on each part slightly higher than the previous one. Thus, the ceiling is smooth, but with steps.

When the design was ready, hidden lighting is carried out under the spotlights around the perimeter and a switch is displayed for them.

Well, then follows the monotonous work of puttying and grouting the entire ceiling. For corners, a mesh is used to mask the seams on drywall, and it was also attached to the joints. You can use perforated corners for corners. As a result, this is the ceiling turned out.

If you have a staircase in your house or you are planning its appearance, you need to consider what material it will be finished with. The appearance of the whole house will depend on the appearance of the flight of stairs.

However, the stairs play an important role not only in aesthetic terms, they are also part of the safe movement around the house.

In a house where there are children, safety is paramount, which means that it is worth taking care of it in the first place. The strength of stairwells, fortifications, and, accordingly, the safety of you and your loved ones in the house will depend on what material you prefer when sheathing.

Tools and materials for work

Drywall wall cladding tool: screwdriver, tape measure, level, marker, plumb line and others.

Actual materials are now considered wood and drywall. Staircase sheathed with drywall is quite attractive and allows homeowners to build it into any structures and walls of their home.

To sheathe the stairs with drywall, you will need:

• screws (self-tapping screws);
• level;
• ruler;
• pencil;
• construction knife;
• construction tools;
• metallic profile;
• interlining;
• corners;
• overalls.

As a rule, drywall sheathing is chosen in those houses where the stair railing will be built into the wall, or where there is a need to "hide" part of the flight of stairs into the interior. It can also help in those houses where there are columns or old stoves. They are masked, masterfully fitting into the style of the house.

The most ideal option to hide irregularities and some defects is to sheathe the stairs, drywall is perfect for this. This malleable material can be painted or painted to match the interior in which the staircase will be installed.

If you have already decided on, then you should choose which part of it will be hidden under the skin. You can then start measuring to get an idea of ​​how many sheets of material you will need to complete the job.

Back to index

Stages of cladding

Sheathing stairs is a meticulous matter that requires attention and concentration, but if you give maximum effort, the process will not take much time.

The first stage of work will be the preparation of a metal frame, on which drywall will subsequently be attached. Sheathing the stairs with drywall will not work if you do not install a metal frame. It must be made in the dimensions that you see for yourself as the “clothes” of the flight of stairs.

The second step is to fit the elements of drywall sheets to the dimensions of the frame. It is very easy to cut drywall, you just need to put the sheet on a flat surface or put something under it. It is better to cut with a construction knife. It is necessary to cut everything in accordance with the holes and bends. With a pencil, it is best to outline the places where the screws will cut.

To sheathe a staircase, you should not save screws, however, you do not need to spend a lot of time in their installation. The metal frame is quite capable of holding an array of sheets of the material used. It is necessary to adjust drywall sheets so that there are no gaps left. It is important to take into account all the irregularities. At the stage of fastening the frame and sheets of material with screws, if cracks and irregularities form, they must be eliminated immediately to avoid deformation of the skin.

Our topic today is drywall stairs. We will find out for what purpose GKL can be used in the construction of interfloor stairs, what limitations are associated with its use and how to properly install and finish plasterboard structures.

First, about the limitations:

• A drywall staircase is just a name indicating a decorative finish material. GKL, due to its fragility, cannot be a load-bearing element of a loaded structure. Any staircase needs a strong frame - steel or wood;

• Stairs sheathed with drywall are operated only in enclosed spaces. GKL is not used at all on the street. Even moisture resistant. Gypsum is gypsum: neither the moisture-resistant cardboard of the shell nor the antifungal impregnation will protect it from its hygroscopicity;
• In general, the author strongly advises to assemble plasterboard structures only on a galvanized profile frame: unlike a bar, it is not prone to deformation with fluctuations in humidity, is not afraid of insects and rot. However, the sheathing of the stairs with drywall is almost always carried out on a frame made of timber and boards. The reason is obvious: they are much easier to attach to steel bearing elements;

Captain Evidence suggests: wooden stairs are often sheathed directly along the bowstrings, without the construction of an additional frame.

• From GKL it is not necessary to make treads of steps. Even if you have to lay tiles on them. The tile does not tolerate significant bending loads and will not protect fragile drywall from bursting.

What can and should drywall be used for?

It applies to:

• Steel frame camouflage;
• Giving a smooth surface to the sloping ceiling of the room under the span. It is often used as a pantry, compact bathroom or bathroom;

Note: Unlike wooden filing, finishing the stairs with drywall allows you to lay tiles on it. A tile with worn seams will reliably protect the gypsum board from the high humidity typical for bathtubs and bathrooms.

• Fence frame sheathing(wood or metal). Solid fencing is especially desirable if there are small children in the house;

• Partition structures enclosing the room under the stairs;
• Wall finishes adjoining a flight of stairs.

Frame construction

How to hem a staircase with a steel frame with drywall?

Obviously, first you need to sheathe it with a bar, constructing an additional frame - already directly for attaching the GKL. At this stage, we will face several problems.

Material

The bar for the frame should be:

1. Having the correct geometric shape (without humps and propellers). You can sort a warped beam by checking it with a rule or simply by looking along its surface along a tangent;
2. Deprived of falling knots larger than a third of the section, oblique layer, oblique cracks and rot;
3. Dry (10-12% humidity). So-called natural moisture wood will inevitably warp during the drying process.

Hint: for the construction of a frame under the GKL, inexpensive coniferous wood is usually used - pine, spruce and fir.

For reliable protection against warping and biological influences, it is desirable to impregnate the bar with drying oil heated in a water bath or any other hydrophobizing impregnation.

Fastening

How to fasten a bar or boards to a profile pipe of a steel frame? The answer depends on what loads the corresponding node will be subjected to.

Plasterboard sheathing

How to sheathe a staircase with drywall on a finished wooden frame?

Cutting parts

Drywall is cut along curved or broken lines with a narrow hacksaw with medium teeth or, much faster, with an electric jigsaw with a wood file. The teeth of the file must be directed upwards, towards the sole of the jigsaw, otherwise the tool will be repelled by them from the cut, and it will turn out to be uneven.

Attention: when cutting, a large amount of dust is released into the air, which then settles on all accessible surfaces. The room must be freed from furniture and household appliances, securely close the doors to neighboring rooms and, if possible, open all windows.

It is more convenient not to cut along the straight lines of the gypsum board, but to break it, having previously cut it a quarter to a third of the thickness.

The step by step guide looks like this:

1. Mark the edge line;
2. Press a steel ruler, corner or profile along the marking;
3. Draw the GKL along the ruler several times with force with a knife;

1. Lay the sheet with a notch on the edge of a table or other elevation (for example, on a stack of sheets of drywall waiting for their turn) and break it off;
2. Cut off the cardboard shell from the back;
3. If there are protrusions that interfere with you on the edge, remove them with a planer.

Fastening

How is the sheathing of the GKL stairs done by hand? Very simple: the parts cut in place are attached to the wooden frame with phosphated self-tapping screws 25 mm long. You can use self-tapping screws for both drywall and wood: their price is the same, and the differences come down only to different thread pitches.

However: with two-layer sheathing, the second layer is mounted with 40 mm fasteners.

A few subtleties:

• The step between the attachment points should not be more than 20 cm on vertical surfaces and 15 cm when filing the span from below;
• Self-tapping screws should not be screwed closer than a couple of centimeters from the edge of the sheet, otherwise it may crumble;
• When screwing several self-tapping screws into a bar at a minimum distance from each other, they should be positioned with a snake so as not to split the wooden frame element along the fibers.

Finishing the stairway in a stone house is often done without a frame: GKL is glued to the walls using mounting gypsum glue. It is successfully replaced by gypsum putty.

The fastening process is very simple: the glue is applied with cakes on the sheet itself or on the walls of the opening, after which the GKL is pressed against the walls and leveled according to the rule or a long level with light strokes.

Prefinishing

Staircase sheathed with drywall, with installed treads and risers, should be prepared for fine finishing. As a rule, water-dispersion paint acts as a finishing coating for gypsum boards. Here are the preparation steps.

Jointing and reinforcement of seams

From the rectangular edges of parts that are cut off in place, you need to chamfer 2/3 of the thickness of the drywall. This is easiest to do with a utility knife. The goal is to allow the putty to penetrate as deeply as possible into the seam when it is puttied.

The captain suggests obviousness: the semicircular factory edges of the PLUK do not need to be lined.

Then all seams are glued with a reinforcing fiberglass mesh with an adhesive layer - sickle. Reinforcement will avoid the appearance of cracks at the seams due to changes in the linear dimensions of drywall sheets with fluctuations in humidity and temperature.

Putty preparation

Gypsum universal or finishing putty is prepared from a dry mix immediately before use. The life of the building mixture after mixing with water does not exceed an hour, so it is prepared in small portions (no more than 3-4 kg).

How to do it:

1. Pour 1.5 liters of water into a clean and as wide container as possible (for example, a plastic paint bucket);

1. Add 2.4 kg of dry mix, spreading it as evenly as possible over a mirror of water;
2. Let the plaster swell for five minutes and mix with a spatula, a construction mixer or a whisk clamped in a screwdriver.

Attention: if you pour water into dry gypsum, lumps will form at the bottom, which will be very difficult to break when kneading.

Puttying

The seams are puttied in two stages:

1. First, the seam is densely filled through the sickle cells;
2. After drying the first layer, the sickle is covered with a second one using a wide spatula.

Often, the sheathing of the stairs has to be puttied over the entire surface. The fact is that the seams between the edges of the sheets cut in place, thanks to the sickle, stand out in thickness. If you apply a millimeter layer of putty on the entire finish, the surface for painting will be perfectly even.

Finishing touches

After puttying, it remains for us to put a few last strokes on our masterpiece:

• Sanding of putty is carried out after it has completely dried with a manual grater or grinder. Remember to protect your eyes from plaster dust. Grinding should be done with the light as bright as possible and falling at an oblique angle, which will highlight all the irregularities with a shadow;

• Then the filing of the stairs is swept from gypsum dust or vacuumed;
• The last stage before finishing is priming the GKL with a penetrating primer. The type of bonding primer should match the type of paint you choose: latex for latex paint, silicone for silicone, etc.

Conclusion

As you can see, the stairs and drywall go together perfectly. The video in this article will help you learn more about using GKL for finishing work. Good luck!

Metal stairs are characterized by durability and reliability, however, their appearance does not always fit the chosen design of an apartment or house. Finishing of metal stairs is carried out specifically in order to allow modern materials to turn an ordinary staircase into a "work of art".

Finishing metal stairs: options, tips and instructions. How to do the decoration with your own hands.

Finishing staircase structures is a rather complicated process, but it is even more difficult to choose a material for this, it is necessary to take into account many characteristics:

• Reliability;
• Durability;
• Safety;
• Noiselessness;
• Style and design.

Actually, the cladding of the stairs is a decorative design, which should, in the end result, combine optimal performance and stylish design that blends harmoniously with the interior.

Metal tends to wear out over time, especially in the places of welding seams, and therefore it is recommended to carry out finishing work at the initial stage of installation of the structure.

Finishing the metal frame of the stairs will protect the metal from corrosion.

Finishing metal stairs

Depending on each specific interior and the purpose of the stairs, depending on the availability of financial opportunities, finishing can be carried out:

It is the material chosen for finishing the stairs that will largely determine the final appearance of the structure, and its comfortable use.

The metal frame can be sheathed completely with one material, but often a combined finish is performed, from two or more materials.

Stairs on a metal frame

It is difficult to imagine a modern interior of a house or a country cottage without a ladder structure, which will make an expressive, stylish accent on the chosen style.

Metal stairs, finished with forged elements or noble woods create a respectable appearance for the design. Modern technologies make it possible to combine metal with any chosen material, open up space for the author to "fly" fantasy.

The metal frame of stair structures is a universal basis, since almost all possible types of finishes are suitable for it.

Stairs on a metal frame have a number of design features that must be considered before proceeding with the finishing work:

Material for sheathing metal stairs. A photo

The choice of material for sheathing a staircase structure depends primarily on the location of the staircase and its purpose. Also, the style of the interior is of no small importance, because the staircase should, as a result, harmoniously fit in.

The surface of a metal staircase can be finished completely or partially with wood, or a combination of any other materials: laminate, drywall, etc. For a “budget” performance, in order to save money, stringers can simply be painted.

Wood can only be used for sheathing steps and risers, and glass and forged elements, or drywall can be used as fences and railings. However, when choosing a laminate for such purposes, it is worth paying special attention to the class of strength and wear resistance; class 31 is best for sheathing stairs.

Laminate

Using laminate as a finishing material, you will also need special corners and strips that will be attached to the steps and frame. The corners of the material will be mounted to the long side of the tread, and the strips are used for the end part. Corners and planks are simply attached to the metal frame with glue, however, if wooden steps are already installed, it is necessary to use self-tapping screws with drowning heads.

Sheathing the steps with laminate, for the tread you will need to take a solid plank, but when you start finishing the risers, the material will need to be cut to size using a jigsaw. Instead of end strips, you can use an ordinary plinth, and the corners can be metal, so the material will last much longer and more reliably.

At the stage of designing a staircase structure, it is necessary to think over and calculate in advance the type of railing, size and all additional details, as well as pre-consider options for finishing the stairs.

Drywall

Gypsum board, as a modern finishing material, is becoming more and more relevant every day, however, it is necessary to carry out the sheathing of the stairs exclusively on top of the wood. This is due to the fact that drywall will not withstand constant traffic and will quickly become unusable (it will be squeezed, dents, cracks will appear).

Initially, plywood is laid, either only on the treads and the metal frame, or on all the elements of the steps at once, and only after that the entire structure is sheathed with drywall.

Quite often, a laminate is used for sheathing the outer side of the stairs, this option is one of the inexpensive and easy to do on your own.

Do-it-yourself sheathing of a staircase structure is not difficult at all, however, it is recommended to think over the style and a possible option at the design stage of the staircase in order to take into account all the design features in advance.

In order for the finish to last as long as possible, it is necessary to choose the right fasteners for the structure:

• Glue;
• self-tapping screws;
• screws.

There are two main ways to carry out the installation of the selected material to the ladder structure:

1. Directly on the frame of the stairs.
2. Using special metal studs.

It is important when finishing work to correctly prepare the surface on which the material will be laid:

How to sheathe a metal staircase with your own hands. Video

An important argument when choosing a material for cladding stairs is the way to implement the plan, whether it will be done by hand and whether it is possible to do it with home tools.

For self-made sheathing of stairs, it is best to use wood, which will go well with a metal frame. This combination of materials combines many advantages:

• Graceful design.
• The ability to make stairs of any design and style.
• Ability to withstand heavy loads.
• Wear resistance and durability (metal frame).
• Comfort and convenience when moving (wooden steps).

In order to finish the stair steps with wood, it is best to use solid wood beams or special MDF linings.

For metal frames, several basic methods for installing a finishing option are used:

When finishing the staircase, you need to start with the riser, and after that go directly to the steps, so the material will look much neater.

In addition to the inner lining of the staircase structure, it is also necessary to perform the outer one, on the back of the bowstring.

It is worth saying that for stairs without stringers or for forged staircases, external finishing is not needed.

• For exterior decoration, it is necessary to mark the attachment points on the metal frame.
• Set the boards so that their edges go to the middle of the frame.
• Make fasteners with self-tapping screws, and in the future, for a perfectly flat surface, cover all holes with mastic, putty or glue.

Stylishly finished metal staircase structures will give a more elegant look and an atmosphere of comfort and coziness.

In order for the staircase structures and finishing materials to last, it is necessary to follow simple rules for care and maintenance as long as possible.

Finishing metal stairs: how and with what to sheathe a metal frame - video, stairs on a metal frame, sheathed with wood, laminate, drywall - photo

Message
sent.

In this master class, we will talk about how to mount drywall on inclined planes. You will learn about the professional intricacies of such installation, as well as how to save time and get the job done right. Detailed photographs for each process will make the explanation as clear as possible.

The device of the frame and the sheathing of the angular converging planes does not differ from the straight sections according to the principle of connections. You can find detailed information about the basics of installing a drywall sheet (GKL) in a previous article.

In our case, GKL sheathing of the attic floor of a multi-gable roof is required with many large kinks that repeat the lines of valleys, ridges and slope mates. Inside there is a vapor barrier and a crate to which U-shaped suspensions for the profile will be attached.

To work, you will need a standard set of tools - a tape measure, a level, a hydro- or laser level, a screwdriver with bits for gypsum boards, a grinder. Since you will have to screw in screws in hard-to-reach places, we recommend using an angle adapter.

Inclined frame device

The first thing to do is to mark the horizon line of the ceiling in those places where the alignment of the plane is provided.

After marking the horizon, we attach the U-suspension and pull the cords for the CD profile.

In our case, a round lamp with a diameter of 300 mm will be mounted in the ceiling, so when installing the frame, it is necessary to leave space for it.

It is more convenient to cut the profile in place, since it is easier to set a solid guide than to adjust short sections.

Note. In sections of a straight ceiling, according to the requirements for gypsum board frames, only the CD profile is used as load-bearing ribs.

After leveling the frame and mounting the sheets on a straight ceiling, we measure the place where the sheets meet and draw a straight line (red in the photo). This is done using a long rule - the plane is selected with a margin for the thickness of the CD profile. Then we attach the UD guide to the profile of the straight ceiling.

Then we mark and fasten the P-suspensions so that they fit under the straight ribs. We insert the extreme CD edges into the inclined UD profile, which will serve as beacons. We fix them at the edges and stretch the cords.

The docking of the guides is carried out only in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe U-suspension. The profiles must fit into each other, for this the edges need to be trimmed.

Both planes of the ceiling are joined along the inner obtuse corner. At the junction, there must be reinforcements from the paired UD profile.

For this, the edges of the frame must be free at the edges. Carefully cut the CD-profile of the ribs in place with a grinder (scissors deform the ends).

We install the remaining edges and put a UD-guide on their free ends, check and adjust the plane according to the rule.

Parallel to the aligned corner guide, right next to it, set the UD-guide (beacon) of the conjugate plane.

With the help of the rule and cords, we expose the opposite (reciprocal) CD-beacon on suspensions and stretch the cords. Filling the internal space of the inclined plane should be done according to the standard GKL mounting technology.

Attention! Arrange the ribs so that the GKL sheet naturally fits the bottom plane of the wall. Subsequently, it will be pressed by a horizontal strip, which will give additional strength.

Overhanging mates (valleys) must necessarily have a gain perimeter of UD guides.

The use of foam is justified in all areas of work with inclined planes. The wider it is applied, the more reliable the fixation of the P-suspensions. This is especially important at the junctions to stone walls.

View of the finished frame:

Sheathing the frame with drywall sheets

Since the dimensions of the sheet are extremely difficult to measure with accuracy, we perform trimming in place. To do this, cut out sheets with a margin of 20-30 mm and fasten them to one of the planes.

Then we hem sheets of the conjugate plane to it end-to-end and cut the stock in place.

Before mounting sheets cut to size, we recommend marking them from the outside in order to accurately insert the self-tapping screw into the profile of the rib.

The junctions of the inclined and vertical planes (roofs to the stone wall) must not only be finished, but strengthened and insulated. To do this, we install a timber or a board with a thickness of at least 40 mm on the dowels.

We lay the mounting foam in the cracks and corners.

We sew a strip of plasterboard, also carefully filling the cracks with foam.

Tip: there is another trick that allows you to create even corners without using a profile corner. To do this, you need to apply a temporary beacon, which can be made from the rule. Drill 3-4 mounting holes in it and fix it on the plane in the desired position.

In this case, the plane will be perfectly flat (unless, of course, the rule is even), the corners are formed simultaneously with the plane, and there will be no need to wait until they dry.

The rest of the filling operations are carried out in the usual way.

Any plane can be revetted beautifully and reliably, if you follow the rules for working with drywall. This universal material is suitable for any planes, including round ones. Before installing on the ceiling, make sure that there is no leakage from the roof by testing by pouring water (simulating precipitation).