The cheapest do-it-yourself houses. What materials are the cheapest to build a house from - a detailed analysis of quality and cost

There are more and more people wanting to settle outside the city or in a small town. In megacities it is stuffy, mentally and physically, from the inhaled air and extraneous noise. I would like, if not to move out completely, then to acquire a corner of outdoor recreation. As you know, we do not suffer from excess funds, so the problem arises: how to build a house inexpensively? In a private house you will have to put more effort into housekeeping and maintaining it will cost a little more than paying for utilities for a city apartment of equal size, but a healthy lifestyle is worth it. And if you start at least a small backyard garden with a greenhouse, then, without breaking a sweat, individual housing can be made generally profitable.

Is it cheap and fast?

A private residential building in the budget price segment may well be comfortable, warm, and reliable. And if your hands grow as they should and there is a desire to use them correctly, then you will look respectable, see fig. However, building a house cheaply is not everything. There are already almost 7.5 billion people on Earth and everything is coming. Our “ball” is not rubber, so it would be simply naive to expect that property taxes and land rents will somehow decrease over time.

Therefore, the most cheap house not necessarily the one whose construction will cost less: when choosing material for the house (see below), design, etc., you must keep in mind further operating costs. Especially if the construction is carried out on credit, you need to start repaying it immediately. Those., great importance acquires a period from the start of construction until the house is ready for occupancy: while construction is going on, there will be no time to find additional income, but you have to pay for your previous housing and take out the next loan payment.

The conclusion is obvious: Having planned to build, first of all we figure out how long we will spend until the house is completely ready? This point may be significant even for fairly experienced builder, if you need to decide whether to build it yourself or entrust some of the construction stages to a conscientious contractor with established production and well-equipped technical equipment. Savings from wisely allocating cash and/or available funds according to the stages of house readiness (see below) for contract and hand-made work can significantly exceed all other possible items and will certainly make the choice of the main structural material of the house and its base - the foundation much easier and simpler.

What is a budget house?

We will consider a budget house to be a house whose construction until it is fully ready (see below), but without heating, cooking and plumbing fixtures, will cost 10,000 rubles. for 1 sq. m of total area or less. A house with 100 total square meters in this case will cost up to 1 million rubles. or ok. $18,000 at today's exchange rate (2019). In certain local conditions, it is possible to reduce the cost of construction to 5500-6000 rubles. per square; if you build completely with your own hands, slowly and only for your own; if you have inexpensive previous housing, then it is possible to meet the cost of 4,500 rubles. per square meter, but cheaper is already a fiction, no matter who promises anything. Good contractors for 3000 rubles. You can still find it for a square meter, but it’s turnkey, and it will take at least the same amount to bring the house to full readiness.

Note: The figures given, as well as those further in this article, are averages for the Russian Federation. Here it is appropriate to recall an old joke, which is now reinterpreted in its own way in almost all countries: a nobleman gorges himself on meat, a peasant only has enough for bread. On average, they eat a meat pie for two. So, finally, look at the prices at home - it is impossible to give a complete overview of them in one publication, and the market situation may change the next day after its publication. Here we primarily provide information on how to use technical and organizational measures to build a house cheaply and quickly without compromising its quality.

About the number of floors

The problem of taxes and land rent can be largely solved, firstly, by building a 2-story house, which will save on land fees. Some prejudice against the upper floors in individual houses left over from Soviet times, when private construction of more than 1.5 floors was strictly prohibited. There is no point in building a budget 3-story building anymore: you'll have to pay too much for the staircase usable area, and strengthen the walls of the 1st floor, which will greatly complicate, lengthen and increase the cost of the work. And in a 2-story building, the staircase to the 2nd, sleeping floor can lead directly from the living room or hallway/hall.

Secondly, you can also significantly reduce your property tax yourself on a completely legal basis by creating a sleeping mezzanine in the form of a Siberian attic. The diagram of the pediment of a frame residential building with a Siberian attic is given in Fig. on right. Not everyone likes houses with Siberian attics because of the faceted roof, but in fact they are economical and convenient, and in budget construction there is no time for exquisite architectural solutions. For a budget frame house (see below), the Siberian attic is practically the only opportunity to increase its actual number of storeys.

Note: for a house made of foam or gas blocks, there is another non-trivial opportunity to increase its living space without a significant increase in taxation and land rent, see below. This factor may be decisive in regions where 2 or more floors individual construction prohibited due to natural conditions, e.g. in seismically dangerous places or on permafrost.

Stages of home readiness

The stage (stage) of readiness of a residential building for occupancy means a completely completed cycle/complex construction work, after which the structure can wait for the next stage to begin, some definite or indefinite for a long time. A technological break between stages is most often necessary for shrinkage of structures from the previous cycle, but sometimes (see below) is unacceptable or possible only in the warm, dry season. Works on next stage construction can be carried out either independently or under a contract from the same or another contractor, regardless of how the previous one was completed. The stages of bringing a budget residential building to completion are as follows:

• Zero, or zero cycle - the foundation has been laid, has gained at least 75% strength and has given the calculated settlement. This is the most critical, complex and time-consuming stage, at which it most often turns out to be advisable to hire an experienced contracting team. Technical break before next. stage is necessary in any case.
• Box - there are walls with openings for windows and doors, covered with a roof. Load-bearing partitions were also erected inside. Communications have been established, but are currently muted. A mandatory technical break is required only for heavy (brick, stone, concrete) buildings due to their own shrinkage. In budget construction, the box stage as such is most often not highlighted, and for a house made of SIP panels it is completely excluded.
• Turnkey - the doors and windows are in place, the frame is stable. The house can winter up to several times. It is possible that the floors have also been laid, but the communications are not connected, there is no interior finishing or insulation. The favorite bait of overly cunning contractors is “cheapness,” so at this stage you need to especially carefully calculate how much it will cost you to eat while performing the remaining work, as well as their cost, and compare it with the price of bringing the house to full readiness by hired workers.
• Complete - communications are connected, stationary household appliances are in place and ready for use. Interior finishing has been done, but exterior finishing and insulation may not be provided for by the terms of the contract (see below). The kitchen, bathroom and boiler/furnace room are fully equipped, you can cook, wash, start the boiler and heat. All that remains is to bring and arrange furniture, lay carpets, hang curtains, paintings, arrange trinkets, etc., so that you can live in the house without bothering you.

About contractors

Secondly, the customer must be offered a contract on paper. An offer (public standard) or individual, it doesn’t matter, the main thing is that the rights and obligations of the parties must be clearly stated there. Thirdly, the warranty period for this stage(stages) of work and conditions for compliance with warranty obligations.

Good contractors on a budget offer a 2-5 year guarantee. Less is not possible due to technical interruptions. In good conscience, it’s also impossible to do more, because... local building operating conditions may change due to the worst side. They can be taken into account (“incorporated” constructively) by using more expensive materials and technical solutions, but this will no longer be budget construction.

About extensions

In popular sources and prospectuses of contractors, you can come across recommendations in your mind, accompanied by preliminary (without reference to location) projects: they say, first we build a 6x9 house very cheaply, and then, as we accumulate funds, add more rooms to it (the original layout allows), until children and grandchildren will not be left with a huge mansion. This approach is fundamentally wrong.

Anyone more or less familiar with construction knows that adding a residential building to an existing one is a complex and not always feasible technical task. First, the old foundation has already completely settled, and the new one will give the calculated shrinkage only under the weight of the supporting structure. That is, the extension cannot be immediately tightly attached to the main structure; you need to wait to see if cracks appear and seal them. In the common RuNet, it is difficult to find publicly available information about extensions to existing buildings; You can look for a small but sensible book by Dr. tech. sciences Ferenc Sägi “How to avoid mistakes when building an individual house.” There was a Russian translation, M., Stroyizdat, 1987. It’s funny - this book cost as much as 90 kopecks back then. Soviet.

Third, even if the house is made of rubber on a gimbal, it is unacceptable to allow it to sway and sway in time with the seasonal movements of the soil from year to year. Under a house built on a correctly chosen and laid foundation, a kind of virtual (invisible) warm “pit” is formed, in which it is never below zero; the blind area around the house expands it to the sides. An extension to a house can disrupt the established thermal balance of the load-bearing soil, which can lead to accidents in the main building. Therefore, conscientious contractors set one of the guarantee conditions - no extensions not agreed with them.

Garage in the house, or the role of layout

One of the ways to get an inexpensive house for permanent residence relative to available living space is to build a house on a common foundation with a garage. Perhaps this is only for houses made of non-combustible materials; regarding the budget ones - foam and gas blocks, otherwise the firefighters will not allow the project to be approved or the squatter construction to be legalized.

However, simply attaching a garage to the house, as on the left in the figure, does not make much sense; it will do almost nothing to save costs on the construction and further maintenance of the house. Need to enter a garage standard size 4x7 m inside design diagram at home, taking into account the following:

1. there is no need to put a garage on a plinth, because then you will have to build an access ramp to it;
2. the ceiling height in the garage is permissible 2.5 and even 2.2 m, less is simply not possible;
3. It is highly desirable to have an entrance to the garage from the house, but then it is only permissible from the hallway/hall and must have a steam-tight, fire-resistant door.

In this case, the garage floor slab will serve as the floor of a one and a half floor, less taxable, but quite spacious. For an example of this type of layout, see the right in Fig. The space utilization rate there is not so great, but there are a lot of amenities:

• A one-and-a-half superstructure is not an extension; no special measures are required for its construction on an existing, established building, i.e. You can build on the garage later, as your family grows.
• The staircase to the one and a half floor is low and fits into the existing hall without any difficulties.
• Heating a garage can also be done without problems, and economically, because... it is slightly heated from the hall and kitchen.
• In the lobby of the 1.5th floor, a pressure tank of an autonomous water supply is perfectly located under the ceiling; You can also move the dressing room there, increasing the area of ​​the living room and bathroom.
• Since the bedroom floor is heated to some extent, in turn, from the garage, it can be done with a French window even in a fairly harsh climate.
• One wall of the basement is shared with the garage. Communications are, of course, in the basement. That is, it can go from the bedroom to the basement sewer riser, to which a washbasin, shower and even a jacuzzi are connected upstairs.
• Access to the basement is also internal, through a hatch in the hall or from the garage.

Agree, a house for 4-5 people with a separate dressing room, a living room of more than 25 square meters and a French bedroom, which also has a hydromassage - this is really cool. And the total area on earth is much less than 180 square meters. m, from which increased taxation begins. Even if in your state the basic area norm is 150-160 square meters. m, the tax authorities will still have to register the house as budget.

Foundation and soil

When choosing the foundation of a house or checking the option proposed by a contractor, you need to take into account the geology and soil mechanics of the construction site. The soil mobility factors that most affect the cost of a house foundation are:

1. Load bearing capacity.
2. Degree of heaving (amount of frost heaving).
3. Standard freezing depth (NFD).
4. The highest height of groundwater.

Load-bearing capacity and heaving

Massive, low-cost development is possible on non-heaving and slightly heaving soil with a bearing capacity of up to 0.7 kg/sq.m. cm, but only based on the results of thorough preliminary surveys over the entire building area with a decent margin at the edges. Separate reliable home an experienced contractor can build on medium-heaving soil with a bearing capacity of 1.1-1.3 kg/sq. m. Self-construction can be done on soil up to medium heaving with a normal load-bearing capacity of 1.7 kg/sq. cm or higher. On heavily and excessively heaving soils, budget development is impossible with rare exceptions (see below).

Note: The bearing capacity of the soil directly at the building site can be determined on your own without complex instruments, but how is a separate article.

Oil and gas reserves and groundwater

Some potentially budget houses it is unacceptable to build on a shallow foundation (see below). The heel (sole) of the foundation must be buried below the NGP by at least 0.6 m on medium heaving soils and by at least 0.3 m on slightly heaving and non-heaving soils. The base of the foundation should not reach the groundwater level by 0.5 m or more. Typical limiting cases for budgetary development: dry sandy loam (slightly heaving), NGL 1.5 m, standing water 2.5 m; foundation depth 1.8-1.9 m. Or - moderately moistened podzol (medium heaving), NGP 1.2 m, standing water 3.5 m. Foundation depth from 1.8 m.

What if there is a fire?

The question of what would be cheaper to build a house in a given location must be decided taking into account fire danger. Hoping for the best and preparing for the worst is a universal principle, and the harmfulness (or compliance) of firefighters here ranks fifth to seventh after their own safety. Relatively possible harm from fire properties of materials for budget construction share next way:

• Fire safety (this is not the opposite of fire hazard) - how difficult it is to set fire to a given material and whether it can burn outside the source of fire. In fact, is it possible to extinguish a timely detected fire using improvised means without significant damage to the structure of the building.
• Fire resistance - how long a material can resist fire without losing mechanical properties to the point of collapse of the structure and/or without emitting toxic gases. In fact, how much time do you have, if extinguishing on your own is impossible, to evacuate and remove property.
• Fire resistance - how much, after being in a fire for at least 20 minutes, the material restores its properties. In fact, suddenly the frame of the house is completely burnt out, is it possible to refurbish it as housing?

Materials

Now it's time to choose material for a home in the budget price category. Houses made of brick, corrugated timber and chamber-dried logs are, unfortunately, excluded from the budget category. They have a lot of advantages and relatively few disadvantages, but you can move into a brick house no earlier than the 3rd year from the beginning of zero: a year to settle the expensive buried foundation, a year to shrink the frame, and only then can it be delivered turnkey, plus time for the interior finishing. In addition, at current energy prices, a brick house requires expensive external insulation.

Note: houses made of wood concrete (fibre-reinforced concrete), reeds, straw blocks, etc. are not considered, because their reliability has not yet been confirmed by time and there is no established construction industry for their construction.

Chambered corrugated timber and logs, impregnated with harmless antiseptics and fire retardants, are expensive in themselves and require solid carpentry experience to build a residential building. The houses from them are considered prestigious; as a result, the cost of work is high. Also, prefabricated panel houses do not fit into the budget category: they are erected very quickly, but to build them you need qualified personnel and a high degree of mechanization of work. Given these circumstances, the choice is wide available materials quite limited. To compare the cost completely finished house per unit (100%) you can take a frame house made of non-glued laminated timber and conventional air-dried boards. The result looks like this. way:

• Country wooden frame house made only from boards – 0.6-0.8
• House on a thin-walled steel frame - 0.85-0.9.
• Residential wooden frame house made of timber and boards – 1.00.
• A log house made from ordinary air-dried timber is 1.4-1.8.
• House made of SIP panels – 1.9-2.00.
• House made of foam or gas blocks - 2.00-2.15.

Frames and timber

The general advantages of and are low sensitivity to ground movements, they “play” with it. Therefore, it is possible to build such houses on a non-buried columnar foundation, the simplest and cheapest. Residential frame/timber budget house It is also possible to build on highly heaving weak soil by laying a TISE pile-strip foundation under it. A 2-story frame house cannot be built without a detailed design, but in budget construction this problem is solved by the Siberian attic, see above.

The good thing about a timber house is that in regions with enough mild winter does not require additional insulation: timber 200 mm thick is equivalent to 600 mm brickwork. Internal cladding in both log and frame houses can be made of plywood or non-combustible materials: chipboard, OSB. Exterior sheathing made of OSB (oriented strand board, OSB, Oriented Strand Board) will give the house additional rigidity in the wind and resistance to weather conditions. The plaster inside is dry here and there, with plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard) on shingles (15-20) x 40 mm; It is impossible to sheathe gypsum boards without sheathing even on completely flat walls.

The design of a timber frame house is well known (on the left in the figure). Without impregnation with biocides and fire retardants (which can be done independently), all the fire-fighting qualities of such houses are low, and fire resistance is generally zero; they burn completely. Fire safety and fire resistance can be increased to acceptable (10-15 minutes for evacuation) if the insulation is made with ecowool (cellulose insulation). It will cost approx. 25% more expensive than mineral wool, but when heated, ecowool releases a lot of water vapor that retards fire. In addition, ecowool prevents wood from rotting: it contains an antiseptic - borax. Ecowool that gets wet does not fall off and retains 75% of its insulating qualities, while when it dries, it completely restores them. Ecowool insulation is possible manually without experience; no fasteners or sheathing are required. Hydro- and vapor barriers for ecowool need inexpensive, simplified ones. Estimated service life of solid wood frame or timber house with and without mineral wool insulation external cladding is 25-40 years depending on the quality of wood and local conditions; the same with ecowool insulation - up to 70 years or more.

Inexpensive dacha house with frame construction measuring approx. it is possible to build up to 4x6 m from just boards with your own hands without experience, just like air-drying lumber. But if the total area of ​​the house exceeds approx. 25 sq. m and/or the number of openings in it is more than 3-4, it must be built by an experienced carpenter. In this case, the frame of the house is needed with the main load-bearing elements made of timber from 150x150 mm.

First, it is impossible to place window and door openings in a house, any size of which exceeds 6 m, at random. Computer programs are of little help here: you need to enter initial data into them and choose a calculation method based on your own experience. There is no computer construction program that would “do everything itself” yet.

The second is in residential frame/ timber house There must be at least two load-bearing partitions. Their location can be taken from a standard project, but correctly connect the partitions with external walls a beginner is unlikely to be able to do it; especially if the house is made of timber.

In a log house built without experience, the problem of caulking may arise. Only a very experienced specialist can reject timber that is highly susceptible to warping when purchasing. If seasonal country house if it splits, the problem is small, the cracks can simply be plugged. In a large residential building with cracked walls, it will be possible to survive 1-2 winters, spending a lot on heating, and then it will quickly fall into disrepair due to weakening of the structure.

Houses on a thin-walled steel frame (on the right in the figure) may be somewhat cheaper than solid wood ones, but this is an apparent cheapness. The main thing is that the fire resistance of houses on a thin-walled steel frame is zero: in a fire, the frame instantly (in less than 3 minutes) loses strength, and the house collapses. In addition, it is very difficult to take into account the fatigue of elements of a complex thin-walled structure, and cases of sudden collapse of such houses for no apparent reason are not isolated in the world. In general, the service life of 100-120 years declared by manufacturers is not maintained, therefore, in a number of countries, building on steel frame Only non-residential small architectural forms are allowed.

SIP

A structural insulated panel (SIP, Structural Insulated Panel) is a cake made from slabs of plywood or OSB with extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) or polyurethane foam between them. For housing construction SIP made from OSB and polyurethane foam are suitable; SIPs filled with EPS fill emit huge amounts of toxic gases in a fire. The main advantages of SIP houses are, firstly, the speed and ease of construction, see video:

Video: example of building a house from SIP

The time it takes to bring a SIP house to move-in readiness is further reduced by the fact that they can be built on a shallow foundation such as a Swedish or Finnish slab. These foundations are cheap, their “ripening” period is within the warm season, so a slab foundation for a house made of SIP can be ordered/laid with a reserve for future extensions or for a large veranda, see fig. on right. The exterior decoration of a house made of SIP can be anything and it will look more than decent, see there.

Equally important is that SIPs themselves are an excellent heat insulator and a house made from them does not require additional insulation. The disadvantages of SIP houses include the need ventilation system, because the walls don't breathe. In Russian conditions, it is significant that houses made of SIP are unsuitable for stove heating, the filler of the panels heats up and gradually emits toxic substances. Manufacturers also claim that the service life of SIPs is short, 40-70 years. Finally, the SIP box cannot be left over the winter; the house must be built at least turnkey during the warm season.

Foam blocks and gas blocks

You can very inexpensively, doing construction on weekends, put it together with glue from spring to late summer, without being a mason at all; She will be able to overwinter once under a roof and wrapped in film. There is no need for a technical break to shrink the box.

The main enemies of a foam/gas block house are, firstly, moisture. There are plenty of pores for condensation in its walls, and it is difficult and time-consuming to dry a damp house made of foam/gas blocks. Therefore, in this case, complete (and expensive) vapor barrier is needed both outside and inside (there are household fumes and from breathing) and good external thermal insulation that “prevents” the dew point from entering the walls. As a consequence, the statement that a house made of foam/gas blocks breathes is, to put it mildly, just talk. Who lived in such a house is unlikely to argue.

In fact, the only way to 100% prevent dampness in a house made of foam/gas blocks in any conditions is a ventilated façade. Which works great, but is by no means relevant to budget construction. Comfortable and even luxury houses from foam/gas blocks can and are being built, but in warm regions and not in the budget segment.

The second enemy of a foam/gas block house is the natural wear and tear of concrete. Let's say it chips only 0.01 mm per year. In this case, it will take 300-400 years before the reinforcement in the concrete monolith is exposed, which can be ignored in the calculations of conventional buildings. But the partitions between the pores of foam/gas blocks are about 1 mm, and their safety margin of 100% will be exhausted in 20-25 years, because destruction comes from 2 sides. Therefore, the estimated service life of a house made of foam blocks or gas blocks of up to 60-100 years is clearly exaggerated. Confirmation of this is the massive (and unsuccessful) sale of aerated concrete villas in Spain, not even by cost minus depreciation, but by how much they will take. When we were building, we forgot about the microwear of the blocks, and now what to do with all this?

Summing up

So, taking into account all the accompanying circumstances, we have few options for truly budget-friendly construction:

• The main one is an all-wood frame house, insulated with ecowool.

The topics of building private houses on our portal are invariably popular - some try on technology, some are charged with positivity, some learn from others’ example in order to own construction was as successful as possible. The experience of already happy homeowners is useful to everyone who, in one way or another, decided to acquire their own home on earth. Now, more than ever, inexpensive frame structures are in demand, but stone structures are not losing their position either. Building a house from stone will require more time and investment, but it is possible even with minimal starting capital, and sometimes even without it. This was proven by one of the FORUMHOUSE participants, who almost single-handedly mastered the entire process. And its topic can become a teaching aid and a catalyst for many who decide to build, and only at the beginning of a long, but so necessary journey.

• Foundation
• Box
• Roof
• Facing
• Finishing

How to build a house with your own hands

Serdobsky Member of FORUMHOUSE

I’ll tell you my story, maybe it will be useful to someone, or at least interesting. About how I built mine own house, it seems like I built everything as usual, like everyone else, but the fact is that when it all started in 2012, there was no money for it, and I planned to build a house alone. Myself, . And there was no site, I just had a strong desire to build and a vision of the final result, and this construction passion spurred me on.

As a result of the search, the topic starter chose a plot of 8.5 acres, with all communications, 35 km from the city, the money for the purchase was taken on credit. Later, I took a long-term lease of a nearby plot of 3.5 acres and expanded; for the next six months I drew the house design on graph paper and drew up documents for construction. I took the house seen in the picture as a basis and tried to find a compromise between efficiency, ease of execution, and proper placement of windows.

When preparatory stage ended, I needed another loan, plus funds from the sold car, so money appeared, and construction of the house began from scratch in the spring of 2013.

Foundation

I built a ribbon: a meter deep, height above ground level - from 35 to 85 cm (terrain of the site), width 40 cm. I dug it by hand in two weeks, as a ceiling - monolithic slab, under which all communications. Approximately 46 mᶟ of imported concrete was used for the tape and slab; it was leveled with a universal hand attachment - a shovel. To prevent the slab from sagging over time after the soil settles, I poured three support pillars and released reinforcing rods with a diameter of 12 mm from the foundation strip around the entire perimeter. The soil selected from the trenches was compacted in layers, two trailers of sand were poured on top and compacted. Therefore, after the expected subsidence of the soil, the slab will not hang in the air, but will be supported by reinforcement and supports. The thickness of the slab (aka the subfloor, directly on which the non-load-bearing partitions were placed) was 13 cm.

Box

The load-bearing walls were made of gas silicate blocks density D 500 (25x30x60 cm), the first row was for mortar, it took a week to get the base as accurately as possible (according to a level), the subsequent rows were for glue.

Then the process went faster, it was not in vain that it took so much time to properly organize a level base, a discrepancy along the diagonals and walls within 5 mm. In the third row along the perimeter I selected grooves and laid reinforcement, and did the same on the second floor.

I did not fill the armored belt; after analyzing the forum, I came to the conclusion that this was not necessary. Two-storey box 7.6 x 9.3 m, with attached garage and terrace to the rear, area without garage 117 m². During the laying process, I figured out how to fill the lintels without cold seams.

Serdobsky

A small formwork with thin 10 cm blocks at the edges, concrete in the center with two reinforcement bars, it looks as if the opening has no lintels at all. And I installed lintels with a cross section of 10x25 cm inside.

The ceiling of the second floor is beamed - timber with a section of 20x10 cm and a plank subfloor.

Looking back, frugal Serdobsky regrets that he did not attract mercenaries; the laying took three months (from June to September), and he had to re-edge a large number of bolkov (66 mᶟ), including the height, to put it mildly, is difficult. However, as a consolation, both the smooth walls and the quality of the seams are unlikely to bother even the most expensive and professional mercenaries.

Roof

To build rafter system(rafters 150x50 mm, pitch 90 cm), I had to hire an assistant, my eight-year-old son, it was difficult to attach and level the boards on my own. And the roof was not without the author’s know-how - he arranged the fastening of the Mauerlat to a porous gas silicate block.

Serdobsky

A hole 30 cm deep is drilled (with a thick drill through the Mauerlat wood), a liquid solution of glue for blocks is poured into it and a 10 mm pin with a knob of lock nuts is inserted, and when the glue hardens, simply press the whole thing on top with a nut, and that’s it.

It took autumn to assemble the rafters; covering a roof with metal tiles alone is almost impossible, so I brought in a friend, and they did it in three days (covering area about 160 m²).

Facing

The last of the starting funds went to purchase the necessary material: inexpensive facing bricks and insulation - the redst Euro brick (250x65x85 mm) and mineral wool (thickness 150 mm, density 50 kg/mᶟ). Over the winter, I insulated the building (roof and ceilings), with mineral wool in the ceiling, rather as sound insulation, since wood is a good conductor.

When watching the training video, individual laying of cladding seemed to be a fairly clear and not particularly complicated process, which would not be difficult to repeat from scratch. As the first experiments showed, it is easy to watch, but much more difficult to reproduce, but there was no money for masons. Therefore, I had to overcome the panic and comprehend the science of masonry on my own. To simplify the work, a correct L-shaped aluminum fixture was made.

Serdobsky

I returned to my bricks. Slowly, very slowly, I understood how to make the correct consistency of the solution, after what time to rub it in, it started to work out. Technology began to develop, and optimism gradually came. But this was the most tedious stage of the entire construction period. Brick with your own hands I placed from May to September, on weekends and in the evenings after work, 80, 100, maximum 180 pieces per day.

It was a fortunate coincidence that the bricks lay intact, although preliminary layout, as recommended, was not done. Yes, it is more correct to carry out the laying simultaneously with the cladding, to observe air gap between silicate and ceramics. But it turned out that the scaffolding had to be built twice and the technology had to be categorically violated.

How to build a house: a couple of tricks from a craftsman:

• A brush will help you get perfect seams - you need to go over it after grouting.
• In order not to disturb the symmetry of the dressing due to the euro sizes, the brick can be filed down to 3.5 cm in the corners, this also adds decorativeness to the openings.

I made a bunch of walls with fiberglass reinforcement - I drilled a block and put a stick on the glue, the other end in the masonry, in several places with large screws, the cap was made in the seam. Instead of a plasticizer, I added to the solution detergent, for contrast, tinted with construction carbon black - cement (M500) with river sand(small) 1/4. If I had imagined that this “pleasure” would last for five months, I would have plastered it, cheaply and cheerfully.

The costs of the building were recorded carefully, literally every nail, so the craftsman knows exactly, and not approximately, how much it cost him to build his own house.

Serdobsky

Gas silicate a private house, lined with brick, with rough floors, mineral wool insulation, sheathing and partitions, with a roof, with lining and drainage (and this is the cost of metal for the roof), with sewer lines throughout the house and a foundation. In this state, it took 640,000 rubles to build the mansion.

Finishing

The beginning of finishing work (2015) coincided with the beginning of a rise in prices, which forced us to hurry up with ordering windows to fit into the style, brown on the outside. Installation on my own, a friend helped with large windows, 11 pieces in total. Interior partitions the second floor is made of plasterboard, on a timber frame (50x100 mm). In the middle, for sound insulation and to avoid “booming,” it was decided to use mineral wool (density 35 kg/mᶟ), electrical wiring along the walls in grooves.

At one time, the block was laid as evenly as possible, albeit slowly, in order to avoid a thick layer of plaster, which was quite successful. Plaster - gypsum compound on the beacons, thickness only 6 mm, the beacons were fixed to the walls with self-tapping screws, the geometry allowed. Gas silicate is characterized by increased permeability, due to which it literally sucks water out of the plaster, which leads to cracking due to accelerated drying. To prevent cracking, the craftsman pre-treated the surface with a primer in two approaches.

There were also perfectly smooth walls; there were no beacons - sanding and filling with a thin layer of plaster mixture. I also plastered the slopes; I don’t like plastic because of its “flimsy voids.”

The subfloor of the second floor is made of OSB, on a laminate backing.

On the ground floor there is a heated floor system, filled with a 5-7 cm thick screed, under the tiles, a single-pipe heating system, a gas boiler, hot water via an electric boiler.

The entrance area and the future terrace at the back of the house were lined with sandstone, a labor-intensive process:

• The stone must be washed so that the peeling plates come off before gluing.
• Masonry using a special composition for porcelain stoneware.
• Fitting and trimming must be done.
• Sealing of joints should be done with a semi-dry solution (wet stains the stone, stains become firmly embedded in the surface).

Quite often, when designing a private house, the future owner thinks about the optimal choice of materials for its construction. What is it cheap to build a house from, so that it does not affect the quality, thermal insulation, visual appeal and durability of the structure. The correct selection of materials will help not only build the desired home with your own hands, but also save considerable money.

Construction stages

From the very beginning, you should determine the order that must be followed when carrying out construction with your own hands:

1. The construction of the foundation begins first.
2. The construction of walls begins after checking the readiness of the foundation.
3. The next priority will be the installation of communications (heating, water supply, sewerage, electrification, gas supply) and pouring the floor.
4. The next step will be laying the floor.
5. The last thing you should do is build the roof. This type of construction work is carried out in spring or autumn.

The following factors influence the level of costs:

• effective building layout;
• the depth of the foundation, materials for its construction and equipment used in its construction;
• use of inexpensive and quality materials for walls;
• heat-saving and waterproofing materials;
• type of heating system;
• installation of door and window blocks;
• use of heat-saving and waterproofing agents.

Any construction must begin with drawing up a project. This approach makes it possible to avoid unnecessary expenses and optimize the project area at the initial stage. You should also decide what material the house will be built from.

Creating a Project

To reduce construction costs and materials, you can calculate the area of ​​the house in such a way as to comfortably place all the necessary premises in the smallest possible area and decide what material will become the basis for the walls.

To reduce heat loss, you can abandon pillars, bay windows, as well as all kinds of decorative partitions, as well as insulate basements, roofs and walls. The fewer walls a building has, the easier it is to heat it.

An excellent solution would be to build verandas and balconies that will protect the building and serve as a place to relax in summer time. It is also recommended to combine the hall with the dining room and kitchen; in this case, the total area will reduce heat loss, and minimal zoning will help create a cozy and original interior small room.

You can resist the cooling of rooms from the roof by installing an attic.

It is recommended to use reliable tile materials or tiles as roofing materials. Don't skimp on roofing material, since the service life of the building and the possibility of rational use attic floor. In addition, these materials look very decorative and improve general form buildings and are very durable, which more than pays for their high cost.

Wall materials

Because the inexpensive construction is intended not only to create beautiful and comfortable housing, but also to do it in a short time with your own hands at reasonable savings, then you should, if possible, use modern materials for interior decoration.

To build a strong frame, concrete, metal, brick or wood are used. One of the economical construction options is to install a wooden frame, which is then covered with soft insulation. This allows you to significantly lighten the structure and save on the construction of the foundation, as well as significantly reduce energy consumption for heating.

Another advantageous option for building walls is building from aerated concrete. A house made from such material is very quick and easiest to build, and you can reduce the cost of mortar and labor. The material is light and dimensional, and after finishing work it will acquire any required type

, and will be no different from brick structures. Wood is a favorite raw material for construction, but it is hardly possible to save money on it.

The material itself is not so expensive, but since it is constantly subject to deformation, shrinkage, the appearance of cracks and gaps from exposure to weather conditions, and also requires careful insulation, its costs increase significantly. The only economical material for a wooden house is the typesetting system. It is assembled in production conditions by specialists from solid.

structural elements

In addition, such a house periodically requires sealing of cracks as a result of building subsidence, as well as other expensive maintenance and monitoring.

You can reduce the cost of building a foundation by using highly efficient structures that can reduce the weight of the walls of the house and allow you to use a lightweight version of the foundation.

The ability to build a low-lying foundation is determined by the condition of the soil and the proximity of groundwater.

A low foundation will save you a lot of money.

Under what conditions can a low-lying foundation be built:

1. Such a foundation is used only on non-heaving soils. Coarse sand is an ideal base for constructing a low-lying foundation.
2. Provided that a drainage system is installed. This will prevent the rise of groundwater and protect the base of the building from excess moisture.
3. It is also advisable to use waterproofing.

If the architect decides to build a low foundation and decides to use lightweight materials, then the amount saved will be quite significant.

In order to determine the appropriate type of foundation with your own hands, you should dig a hole about one meter deep. If there is no water in the hole, and the soil composition is sand, clay and stones, then we can say with certainty that it is possible to build a shallow foundation (60-80 cm).

Roofing felt is used to waterproof the foundation

The solution should be thick enough and consist of cement, sand and crushed stone. Before pouring, formwork is constructed from boards. The width of the base should be 20 cm greater than the width of the walls. The use of reinforcing mesh is mandatory.

To ensure waterproofing, two layers of roofing material are laid into the foundation at ground level and then built to the required height.

After completion of construction work, the foundation should be given several months to mature, and only after that the walls should be built.

Window systems

When choosing and installing window systems with your own hands, you should pay attention not only to the quality of the window unit itself, but equally to the condition of the seals and fittings. They must provide a tight fit, high-quality heat and sound insulation.

Poor-quality double-glazed windows will contribute to cooling the room and the formation of drafts. Necessary for optimal lighting The number of windows is calculated using the formula: floor area divided by 8.

For example, for a room with an area of ​​40 meters, 5 windows are needed.

The finished building requires the installation of a gas or electric heating system. Measures to insulate the walls, floors and basement of the building significantly reduce heat loss, but they are not able to provide comfortable temperature at home during the cold season.

The "warm floor" system is one of the most effective ways heating the room. There are two types of such flooring: electric and water. This system is quite cheap and provides pleasant warmth and comfort in the room. Purchasing and installing such a system with your own hands will allow you, without causing a significant increase in the cost of the project, to ensure savings and fit seamlessly into the interior of the house.

Comfortable distribution for this type of heating warm air from bottom to top, compared to other types, is the most correct. Whereas heating from radiators can be minimized by drafts circulating inside the room.

Knowing what is cheaper to build a house from, you can save a good amount and bring your dream home project to life with your own hands. Advice on arrangement is not expensive house will help you build a comfortable, beautiful and ergonomic structure with your own hands, in which maximum attention can be paid to the remaining funds interior decoration premises.

The costs of building a house of the same area can vary by two or more times.

You can reduce the construction budget if you invest your own labor, knowledge, energy, and talents into this matter.

An inexpensive house should not be:

• Very small. Its size should suit your family's needs.
• Inconvenient. It should suit your family's lifestyle.
• Low quality. You can use cheaper, but high-quality traditional solutions. Typically, such decisions are easier to implement.

What can you save on?

1. You can save a lot by choosing a house design which should have economical solutions for the layout and structural elements of the house.

Architects offering ready-made projects are not interested in the cost of the house. Their task is to charm the developer beautiful facade and sell the project.

A beautiful picture acts like a drug - the developer decides at all costs build a large, complex and therefore very expensive house.

Not an expensive house project - cottage With gable roof on a shallow foundation with floors on the ground. total area 123 m 2 . The house has no interior load-bearing walls. Attic floor absent - suspended ceiling attached to the roof trusses. The angle of inclination of the roof slopes is 20 degrees. In summer, the living space increases due to the large, more than 20 m², a terrace completely covered and protected by walls, pos. 13.

An inexpensive house project is:

A rectangular house with a gable roof;
a one-story house without expensive interfloor ceilings, stairs and numerous windows;
a house without a basement, because if there is one, costs will increase by at least 30%;
house on low and ;
a house without unusual elements - bay windows, arched windows, tympanums, columns, balconies, pilasters, stairs, two-level rooms, winter gardens;
a roof with two, or at most five slopes (sometimes there are fifteen of these slopes!). Corners, valleys, hatches, skylights and a lot of tin elements - such a roof can cost 40% of construction costs;
external walls, the simplest to construct;
window standard size;
simple interior and exterior wall decoration;
traditional facade made of cement-lime plaster.

The simple form of the house is the embodiment of the ultra-modern architectural style of the Barn house. A distinctive feature of the style is the exquisite laconicism that is achieved the right choice proportions, as well as texture and color exterior finishing harmonizing with the surrounding space.

Devote maximum time and energy to your choice economical project Houses.

Read articles on choosing the main parameters of a house project:

2. At finishing works. Option “minimum”: walls with traditional plaster or plaster, laminate on the floor, simple plumbing in the bathroom.

3. On materials. You can entrust the selection, purchase and delivery of materials to the construction site to the construction contractor - you have less worries. But if you want to save money, then take on this work yourself.

You can buy materials from well-known brands or purchase the same materials locally or less famous manufacturers. Moreover, they will not be inferior in quality to the first ones, but their price will be lower. To save money and not make a mistake in choosing, collect all available information about the manufacturer, prices on the construction market in your and neighboring cities, as well as reviews about the quality of the product.

However, remember the basic rule of the market - quality costs money.

Many sellers give seasonal discounts from prices during a period when demand for building materials falls. This usually happens from November to February. Follow prices and purchase expensive materials in this period.

What to build a house from, what material?

SNiP 02/23/2003 proposes to carry out, by making appropriate calculations, optimization of the building shell according to.

For different designs shells of the house (walls, floors) calculate the total cost of construction 1 m 2 wall or ceiling surfaces, rub/m 2. The heating costs of a house built using these different shell designs are then determined. For each design, a payback period is found - the period of time during which construction costs will be recouped.

In different regions, depending on the cost of the fuel and building materials used, as well as the severity of the climate, different results are obtained for the payback period of a particular wall or ceiling structure.

If you do not have specific preferences on what to build a house from, then find out the results of such calculations from local designers. Choose the wall and ceiling design option with the shortest payback period for construction costs in your region.

Calculations and construction practice show that in places with a harsh climate and/or expensive fuel It is more profitable to invest in highly efficient insulation materials.

Advantageous in harsh climates or when heating with electricity build double-layer walls with a thin but durable, and therefore relatively cheap, load-bearing layer (, etc.) with a masonry thickness of 180-250 mm. and insulate them with a fairly thick layer of effective insulation - 100-300 mm.

In areas with very harsh winters in a double-layer wall It may be advantageous to lay the load-bearing part from less durable but warmer blocks: aerated concrete, gas silicate, foam concrete or porous ceramics, density 600 - 1200 kg/m 3. This solution will reduce the thickness of the layer of highly efficient insulation, but due to lower strength wall material you will have to increase the thickness of the walls.

One square meter frame wall contains the maximum amount of highly effective insulation. This is probably the most profitable wall design in terms of return on construction costs.

Frame wall inexpensive home for harsh climates:

• There is a plate between the frame posts mineral wool insulation density not less than 45 kg/m 3, thickness 100-200 mm.
• On the outside, insulation slabs made of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) or polystyrene foam or facade slabs made of mineral wool density not less than 125 kg/m 3, thickness 40 - 100 mm.

However, a frame house has features that not all developers like.

It is profitable to build a house with frame walls and in areas with less severe winters. Outer layer insulation on frame wall in areas with milder climates this may not be necessary.

In areas with mild winters houses made from lightweight, warm porous ceramics or without additional insulation and masonry thickness no more than 510 mm.

Wooden walls made of timber or logs in most climatic zones of Russia do not meet modern requirements for heat conservation. Wooden walls of houses for year-round use require additional insulation.

In the comments, please justify your choice: cheaper, warmer, more durable, etc.

More articles on this topic:

At home. We’ll tell you how to choose the right project for an inexpensive home for permanent residence, and how you can save money. family budget, and what you absolutely cannot save on.

You will find out what the price of a cheap house depends on, and what materials are best suited for the idea of ​​building your dream home.

The desire to build a budget house

This desire drives land owners to save on many things. On the one hand, it is understandable, because the idea is not a joke and requires a significant investment of money.

Insulation is carried out using a thick layer of high-quality insulation 100 - 300 mm. In cold regions with very frosty winters, it makes sense to lay load-bearing walls from aerated blocks, gas silicate, foam concrete with a density of 600 - 1200 kg/m³, since these materials retain heat quite well.

This will make it possible to insulate the walls with a smaller layer of insulation, but the thickness of the walls needs to be increased.

In climate zones with mild and short winters, cheap houses can be built from foam concrete or aerated concrete with single-layer walls. Log houses or timber, cannot provide good heat retention in the room.

Therefore, such houses need insulation, and this, in turn, “kills” the whole idea of ​​environmental friendliness of wooden housing, and there can be no talk of any “breathing walls”.

It is most profitable to build such houses as a summer house, for seasonal use. But those who are willing to pay double or even triple for heating can afford a wooden house as a permanent residence.

What should you not save on when building a budget house?