After which you can plant radishes. How to plant radishes correctly and get an excellent harvest

It is important for every gardener to properly plan and sow garden crops. The quantity and quality of the future harvest largely depends on this. The fact is that the compatibility or incompatibility of neighboring plants, as well as their predecessors in the beds, affects the content of nutrients in the soil, as well as the damage to cultivated plants by diseases and garden pests.

For example, you've probably noticed that crops such as tomatoes, eggplants and potatoes, which come from the same family - nightshades, usually suffer from the same infections and are susceptible to attack by the same enemies. In light of this, it is important to follow the principles of crop rotation and reasonable planning of beds.

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The summer season is approaching. In light of this, many gardeners are interested in the question of after which they can sow radishes, that is, what garden crops will become good predecessors for him. Although this first spring vegetable does not require special conditions, there are still some rules that must be followed when growing it.

So, radishes should not be sown in beds where related plants (radish, daikon, all types of cabbage, horseradish, radishes) were grown last year. The best predecessors are potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, and cucumbers.

What can you plant after harvesting radishes?

In the beds that you used for radishes at the beginning of the season, peas, beans, broad beans, pumpkins, zucchini, watermelons, and melons will grow best. Cucumbers, tomatoes, tomatoes, onions and herbs (parsley, dill, lettuce, cilantro, etc.) will do well.

After plants affected by certain diseases and pests, those that are resistant to them are planted. This is especially important for cabbage and nightshades (tomato, potato). Related plant crops (tomatoes-potatoes, cucumbers-pumpkins) suffer from the same diseases.

To avoid one-sided depletion of the soil, plants are alternated depending on what nutrients they require. In a simplified form, you can alternate “tops” and “roots” (for example, carrots are grown after cabbage or tomatoes).

After onions and garlic, all crops can be planted. Re-sowing onions and garlic is not recommended.

After tomatoes and potatoes: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas, garlic, beets, lettuce, carrots, parsley, dill, celery.

After cucumbers, zucchini, and squash, the following are planted: radishes, cabbage, beets, onions, garlic, peas, beans, tomatoes, and potatoes.

After carrots, dill, parsley, celery, plant: onions, garlic, beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes.

After strawberries (after 4 years) - root vegetables and legumes, next year- pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, then tomatoes, onions. After beans, peas, onions and garlic, you can plant any crops.

The best predecessors of the main vegetable crops are:

for green crops (except lettuce) - cabbage, cucumber, root vegetables, onions;

For early white cabbage and cauliflower - potatoes, tomatoes, onions, legumes, root vegetables (except radishes, turnips, radishes and rutabaga);

For medium and late white cabbage - tomato, potato, legumes, carrots, beets;

For turnip onions - cucumber, tomato, early White cabbage, early potatoes, legumes, late cabbage and potatoes;

For cucumber - early white cabbage and cauliflower, tomatoes, potatoes, legumes (except beans), root vegetables (except carrots), since beans and carrots are affected by white rot, like cucumber;

For carrots - potatoes, cabbage, green crops (except lettuce, which suffers from white rot), tomato, legumes (except beans);

For beets - cucumber and other pumpkins, early potatoes, cabbage, tomato and all legumes, late cabbage;

For potatoes - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, squash, cabbage, legumes, root vegetables, onions;

For tomato, pepper, eggplant, physalis - early white and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, onions, root vegetables, late cabbage;

For garlic - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, legumes, late cabbage;

Plant compatibility

Planting plants together, taking into account their compatibility, can significantly increase the yield. In case of incompatibility (suppression), yields are reduced.

Compatible plants :

The most favorable neighbors for beans are cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around cucumber beds. Beans go well with mustard, potatoes, radishes, radishes, sweet corn, and spinach. Interspersing beans into the plantings of these plants improves the nitrogen supply of the latter. Fragrant basil, planted next to the beans, reduces damage to them by the bean weevil. Other useful herbs for beans: borage, oregano, rosemary, yarrow.

Radishes and oilseed radishes have a beneficial effect on grapes.
Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Mutual assistance relationships have been observed in peas with carrots, cucumbers, and turnips. Peas grow well between the rows of these crops, and, like all legumes, enrich the soil with nitrogen.
Mustard repels the pea moth from peas and inhibits weeds
Peas are also compatible with oats and celery. Tomatoes release biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas.
Mustard root secretions (in mixed crops) stimulate the growth of peas.

Strawberries are favorably influenced by: bush beans, parsley, spinach. Garlic - protects. Parsley planted between strawberry rows repels slugs.
Strawberries can be combined with cabbage, onions, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, and garlic. Of the herbs, borage (orygrass) and sage work well on it. Mulching the soil during fruit formation with spruce and pine needles significantly improves the taste of strawberries;

White cabbage prefers lettuce, onions, celery, dill, bush beans, radishes and even potatoes as neighbors.
Dill planted between rows of cabbage improves its taste and repels caterpillars and aphids.
Celery protects cabbage from flea beetles and cabbage flies, but its smell attracts cabbage whites, which means it is not advisable to place them together.
It is also beneficial for cabbage to be near cucumber grass, which has a good effect on cabbage and, with its hard, hairy leaves, drives away snails.
A very good accompanying crop for cabbage is lettuce (all types). It also protects it from the flea beetle.
Cabbage is in dire need of protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay eggs on its leaves. This role can be performed by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong smell. Therefore, it is recommended to plant hyssop, mint, wormwood, chamomile, savory, and sage around cabbage plantings.
Leeks repel cutworm caterpillars.
It is appropriate to plant marigolds, nasturtiums, and marigolds in the cabbage rows - they repel aphids, cabbage and carrot flies, and white flies.
Parsnips attract predatory insects that destroy the caterpillars.
Head lettuce, onion, celery, and beets are compatible with broccoli.
Undesirable for cabbage: tomatoes, beans, carrots.

Potatoes get along well with eggplant, cabbage, corn, onions, spinach, beans, horseradish, garlic and mint. The potatoes protect the beans from bruchus, and the beans provide nitrogen to the potatoes. The above plants complement each other advantageously, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons. When growing potatoes in a mixed culture with compatible plants, they suffer less and grow in one place for many years, with stable yields. Potatoes are partial to cabbage, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, and garlic. The best partners for potatoes are beans, bush beans and spinach. Beans planted between potato rows enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potatoes go well with cabbage, especially cauliflower, corn, radishes and different types salad, Horseradish planted in bushes around the potato plot has a beneficial effect on potatoes. The Colorado potato beetle is repelled by marigolds, catnip, coriander, nasturtium, and tansy. Phytoncides of onion and garlic quickly destroy the pathogenic potato fungus - late blight.

Corn is a nutritionally demanding plant, so it goes very well with both bush and climbing beans, for which corn is a support. Corn is combined with beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, early potatoes, and lettuce. Cucumbers are recommended to be planted around corn plots. From an allelopathy point of view, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a beneficial effect on potatoes and sunflowers.
Corn is compacted with zucchini, pumpkin, as well as beans or peas, for which the corn stalk serves as a support. Peas and beans contribute to the accumulation of nitrogen in the soil.
Soybean protects corn from bugs
Bad neighbors for corn - beets and celery

Onions and carrots protect each other from pests: carrots repel the onion fly, and onions repel the carrot fly.
Onions are combined with strawberries, watercress, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, and parsley. Bordering onion beds with savory is beneficial for onion growth; chamomile also works well on it, but only with a small number of chamomile bushes (one per linear meter beds).
By placing onions and garlic as separate plants next to cucumbers, you can protect them from bacteriosis. Onions do not go well with beans, peas, or beans. The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberries protect the apple tree from scab, and the raspberry tree protects from gray rot.

Carrots and peas mutually enrich each other. Carrots are also friends with tomatoes, lettuce, dill, onions, garlic, radishes and radishes, but are not compatible with cabbage.
The root secretions of beets planted along the edge of the bed make carrots healthier.

Mint (melissa) - grows well in sorrel thickets.

Strawberries or medicinal herbs: chamomile, oregano. These herbs with sea buckthorn leaf make a good vitamin tea.

Cucumbers are friends with peas and cabbage, but avoid grapevine. If you sow dill between cucumbers, the duration of their fruiting will increase, and therefore the harvest. Cucumbers are also compatible with beans, lettuce, onions, celery, beets, and parsley. Onion phytoncides kill spider mites on cucumbers.

The nut has no compatible crops;

Spring garlic and dill will help tomatoes. Tomatoes themselves help other plants. To repel codling moth butterflies and protect pear and apple trees from scab, tall tomatoes are planted. Tomatoes release biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas, cabbage, onions, and beans.
Sweet basil improves the taste of tomatoes;

Radish is friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, tomatoes, beets, pumpkin and spinach;

Lettuce repels flea beetles from radishes, radishes, and cabbage;

Radishes planted between bush beans will be larger and tastier. Nasturtium and watercress also contribute to this.

Beets get along well with lettuce, peas, cabbage, dill and parsley;

Celery prefers its neighbors: tomato, beans, spinach, onion, cucumber, cabbage

Currants are not damaged kidney mite, if you plant onions between the bushes and leave them in the ground for the winter.

Soybean is friendly with all crops.

Asparagus and marigolds - help in the fight against nematodes.

Beans, squash and corn have long been planted together. Pumpkin inhibited the growth of weeds by shading the soil with its leaves, corn protected the pumpkin from overheating, and beans enriched the soil with nitrogen. These plants complement each other, since they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons; for their development, different mineral elements, they have different attitudes towards lighting.

Sown between vegetables and trees spice plants- anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, tarragon. The smell of these plants, their phytoncides, prevents the spread of pests and diseases.

If you plant marigolds, nasturtium, calendula (marigolds), chicory between rows of potatoes or onions, and plow bunches of rye straw into the soil, they will protect these crops from damage by nematodes. Marigolds, leaf mustard, marigolds, celandine, spinach - they heal the soil.

If you make a border of marigolds around the area where the roses are planted, nematode damage to the roses will become impossible.

Parsley will drive away ants, and it also heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Tansy cinerarifolia, or Dalmatian chamomile, saves cabbage from aphids, cabbage cutworm and white moth caterpillars, and the apple tree from aphids, codling moth and other pests. The powder of this plant was used to fight fleas, bedbugs, flies, cockroaches and even mice. You can also use pink tansy and the closely related red tansy. These plants are also known as Persian chamomile and Caucasian chamomile.

The following go well with salad: carrots, cucumbers, legumes, radishes;

Beans are compatible with cabbage, cucumbers, and sugar beets. It is useful to plant other crops with beans, as it helps get rid of the meadow borer.

Garlic protects asters, carnations, gladioli, roses from powdery mildew, blackleg, black spot and fusarium, reduces the incidence of gray mold in carnations.

Apple - raspberry

Stevia (Honey Herb) - can grow next to garlic and onions, even in flower pot, on the window.

Celery, dill, onions, carrots well planted nearby. They can be planted together or sequentially, one after the other.

Incompatible plants:

Grapes are incompatible with cabbage, which is the enemy of grapes;

Peas - incompatible with rutabaga, beans, and tomatoes;
Garoch and beans conflict with onions and garlic;

Combinations of peas with all types of onions, tomatoes, garlic, rutabaga, and beans are unfavorable;

Wormwood has a bad effect on peas;

The walnut oppresses everything that comes under its crown;

Cabbage - it is incompatible with tomatoes, carrots;
Cabbage does not combine with parsley, carrots and suffers greatly from nearby growing grapes;
Tansy has a bad effect on kale.

Potatoes are incompatible with sunflowers, tomatoes and pumpkins (they can cause late blight);
Potatoes are suppressed by: cherry, apple, raspberry, rowan, sunflower;
Potatoes do not tolerate cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkins;
It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery;

Bad neighbors for corn are beets and celery;

Currants and gooseberries cannot be planted next to each other (damage to the gooseberry moth);

Onions do not go well with beans, peas, beans (cabbage, potatoes -?). The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberries and strawberries - if they are nearby, this promotes the proliferation of the strawberry-raspberry weevil;

Sea buckthorn, strawberries and nightshades - if they are nearby, this contributes to the development of the same diseases;

Cucumbers are overwhelmed by tomatoes;
Cucumbers are hostile to potatoes and aromatic herbs;

Peach oppresses cherry, pear and apple trees. They need to be planted away from each other.

Parsley - cucumber, head lettuce;

Tomato, dill and beans are incompatible with cabbage;
Tomatoes are aggressive towards grapes; Tomatoes - cucumber, turnips, peas, beets, parsley, apple, red cabbage; Tomatoes are suppressed by potatoes and turnips.

Radish - spinach;
Radish's enemy is hyssop;

The salad is incompatible with leaf mustard;

Beets do not get along well with potatoes, spinach, and corn;

Poplar is very aggressive - many people suffocate in its fumes cultivated plants(apple tree, corn);

Pumpkin - potatoes;

Beans - suppressed by shallots;

Fennel inhibits almost all cultivated plants.

Effect of herbs: sage is incompatible with onions, marigold has a bad effect on beans, wormwood has a bad effect on beans and peas, and tansy has a bad effect on kale;

ALTERNATING CROPS IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN (WHAT CAN BE PLANTED AFTER WHICH). Gardeners and summer residents, especially beginners, will find this memo useful. And for non-beginners, it wouldn’t hurt to refresh your memory at the beginning of the sowing season. The plant is returned to the place where it grew no earlier than after 3-4 years. There are exceptions: tomato, beans, strawberries, potatoes - they can grow in the same place for years. The principle of fruit replacement implies that predecessors prepare the soil for the next plants. After plants with a shallow root system, plants with a deep root system are planted. After plants affected by certain diseases and pests, those that are resistant to them are planted. This is especially important for cabbage and nightshades (tomato, potato). Related plant crops (tomatoes-potatoes, cucumbers-pumpkins) suffer from the same diseases. To avoid one-sided depletion of the soil, plants are alternated depending on what nutrients they require. In a simplified form, you can alternate tops and roots (for example, carrots are grown after cabbage or tomatoes). After onions and garlic, all crops can be planted. Re-sowing onions and garlic is not recommended. After tomatoes and potatoes: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas, garlic, beets, lettuce, carrots, parsley, dill, celery. After cucumbers, zucchini, and squash, the following are planted: radishes, cabbage, beets, onions, garlic, peas, beans, tomatoes, and potatoes. After carrots, dill, parsley, celery, plant: onions, garlic, beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes. After strawberries (after 4 years) - root vegetables and legumes, the next year - pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, after - tomatoes, onions. After beans, peas, onions and garlic, you can plant any crops. The best predecessors of main vegetable crops are: for green crops (except lettuce) - cabbage, cucumber, root vegetables, onions; for early white cabbage and cauliflower - potatoes, tomatoes, onions, legumes, root vegetables (except radishes, turnips, radishes and rutabaga); for medium and late white cabbage - tomato, potato, legumes, carrots, beets; for onions for turnips - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, early potatoes, legumes, late cabbage and potatoes; for cucumber - early white cabbage and cauliflower, tomato, potato, legumes (except beans), root vegetables (except carrots), since beans and carrots are affected by white rot, like cucumber; for carrots - potatoes, cabbage, green crops (except lettuce, which suffers from white rot), tomato, legumes (except beans); for beets - cucumber and other pumpkins, early potatoes, cabbage, tomato and all legumes, late cabbage; for potatoes - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, squash, cabbage, legumes, root vegetables, onions; for tomato, pepper, eggplant, physalis - early white and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, onions, root vegetables, late cabbage; for garlic - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, legumes, late cabbage; Compatible plants: Cherry - raspberry It is recommended to plant eggplant among bush beans, which repel the Colorado potato beetle. Has a beneficial effect on eggplants - savory. The most favorable neighbors for beans are cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around cucumber beds. Beans go well with mustard, potatoes, radishes, radishes, sweet corn, and spinach. Interspersing beans into the plantings of these plants improves the nitrogen supply of the latter. Fragrant basil, planted next to the beans, reduces damage to them by the bean weevil. Other useful herbs for beans: borage, oregano, rosemary, yarrow. Radishes and oilseed radishes have a beneficial effect on grapes. Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera. Mutual assistance relationships have been observed in peas with carrots, cucumbers, and turnips. Peas grow well between the rows of these crops, and, like all legumes, enrich the soil with nitrogen. Mustard repels the pea moth from peas and inhibits weeds. Peas are also compatible with oats and celery. Tomatoes release biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas. Mustard root secretions (in mixed crops) stimulate the growth of peas. Strawberries are favorably influenced by: bush beans, parsley, spinach. Garlic - protects. Parsley planted between strawberry rows repels slugs. Strawberries can be combined with cabbage, onions, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, and garlic. Of the herbs, borage (orygrass) and sage work well on it. Mulching the soil during fruit formation with spruce and pine needles significantly improves the taste of strawberries; White cabbage prefers lettuce, onions, celery, dill, bush beans, radishes and even potatoes as neighbors. Dill planted between rows of cabbage improves its taste and repels caterpillars and aphids. Celery protects cabbage from flea beetles and cabbage flies, but its smell attracts cabbage whites, which means it is not advisable to place them together. It is also beneficial for cabbage to be near cucumber grass, which has a good effect on cabbage and, with its hard, hairy leaves, drives away snails. A very good accompanying crop for cabbage is lettuce (all types). It also protects it from the flea beetle. Cabbage is in dire need of protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay eggs on its leaves. This role can be performed by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong smell. Therefore, it is recommended to plant hyssop, mint, wormwood, chamomile, savory, and sage around cabbage plantings. Leeks repel cutworm caterpillars. It is appropriate to plant marigolds, nasturtiums, and marigolds in the cabbage rows - they repel aphids, cabbage and carrot flies, and white flies. Parsnips attract predatory insects that destroy the caterpillars. Head lettuce, onion, celery, and beets are compatible with broccoli. Undesirable for cabbage: tomatoes, beans, carrots. Potatoes get along well with eggplant, cabbage, corn, onions, spinach, beans, horseradish, garlic and mint. The potatoes protect the beans from bruchus, and the beans provide nitrogen to the potatoes. The above plants complement each other advantageously, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons. When growing potatoes in a mixed culture with compatible plants, they suffer less and grow in one place for many years, with stable yields. Potatoes are partial to cabbage, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, and garlic. The best partners for potatoes are beans, bush beans and spinach. Beans planted between potato rows enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potatoes go well with cabbage, especially cauliflower, corn, radishes and various types of lettuce. Horseradish planted in bushes around the potato plot has a beneficial effect on potatoes. The Colorado potato beetle is repelled by marigolds, catnip, coriander, nasturtium, and tansy. Phytoncides of onion and garlic quickly destroy the pathogenic potato fungus - late blight. Corn is a nutritionally demanding plant, so it goes very well with both bush and climbing beans, for which corn is a support. Corn is combined with beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, early potatoes, and lettuce. Cucumbers are recommended to be planted around corn plots. From an allelopathy point of view, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a beneficial effect on potatoes and sunflowers. Corn is compacted with zucchini, pumpkin, as well as beans or peas, for which the corn stalk serves as a support. Peas and beans contribute to the accumulation of nitrogen in the soil. Soybeans protect corn from bugs. Bad neighbors for corn are beets and celery. Onions and carrots protect each other from pests: carrots repel the onion fly, and onions repel the carrot fly. Onions are combined with strawberries, watercress, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, and parsley. Bordering onion beds with savory is beneficial for onion growth; chamomile also works well on it, but only with a small number of chamomile bushes (one per linear meter of the bed). By placing onions and garlic as separate plants next to cucumbers, you can protect them from bacteriosis. Onions do not go well with beans, peas, or beans. The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him. Raspberries protect the apple tree from scab, and the raspberry tree protects from gray rot. Carrots and peas mutually enrich each other. Carrots are also friends with tomatoes, lettuce, dill, onions, and carrots. The root secretions of beets planted along the edge of the bed make carrots healthier. Mint (melissa) - grows well in sorrel thickets. Under sea buckthorn, strawberries or medicinal herbs are grown: chamomile, oregano. These herbs with sea buckthorn leaf make a good vitamin tea. Cucumbers are friends with peas and cabbage. If you sow dill between cucumbers, the duration of their fruiting will increase, and therefore the harvest. Cucumbers are also compatible with beans, lettuce, onions, celery, beets, and parsley. Onion phytoncides kill spider mites on cucumbers. The nut has no compatible crops; Spring garlic and dill will help tomatoes. Tomatoes themselves help other plants. To repel codling moth butterflies and protect pear and apple trees from scab, tall tomatoes are planted. Tomatoes release biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas, cabbage, onions, and beans. Sweet basil improves the taste of tomatoes; Radish is friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, tomatoes, beets, pumpkin and spinach; Lettuce repels flea beetles from radishes, radishes, and cabbage; Radishes planted between bush beans will be larger and tastier. Nasturtium and watercress also contribute to this. Beets get along well with lettuce, peas, cabbage, dill and parsley; Celery prefers to be its neighbors: tomato, beans, spinach, onion, cucumber, cabbage. Currants are not damaged by the bud mite if onions are planted between the bushes and left in the ground for the winter. Soybean is friendly with all crops. Asparagus and marigolds - help in the fight against nematodes. Beans, squash and corn have long been planted together. Pumpkin inhibited the growth of weeds by shading the soil with its leaves, corn protected the pumpkin from overheating, and beans enriched the soil with nitrogen. These plants complement each other because they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons, their development requires different mineral elements, and they respond differently to lighting. Spicy plants are sown between vegetables and trees - anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, tarragon. The smell of these plants, their phytoncides, prevents the spread of pests and diseases. If you plant marigolds, nasturtium, calendula (marigolds), chicory between rows of potatoes or onions, and plow bunches of rye straw into the soil, they will protect these crops from damage by nematodes. Marigolds, leaf mustard, marigolds, celandine, spinach - they heal the soil. If you make a border of marigolds around the area where the roses are planted, nematode damage to the roses will become impossible. Parsley will drive away the ants. Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera. Tansy cinerarifolia, or Dalmatian chamomile, saves cabbage from aphids, cabbage cutworm and white moth caterpillars, and the apple tree from aphids, codling moth and other pests. The powder of this plant was used to fight fleas, bedbugs, flies, cockroaches and even mice. You can also use pink tansy and the closely related red tansy. These plants are also known as Persian chamomile and Caucasian chamomile. The following go well with salad: carrots, cucumbers, legumes, radishes; Beans are compatible with cabbage, cucumbers, and sugar beets. It is useful to plant other crops with beans, as it helps get rid of the meadow borer. Garlic protects asters, carnations, gladioli, roses from powdery mildew, black leg, black spot and fusarium, and reduces the incidence of gray rot in carnations. Apple tree - raspberries Celery, dill, onions, carrots well planted nearby. They can be planted together or sequentially, one after the other. Incompatible plants: It is not recommended to plant beans (beans, peas, soybeans) with onions and garlic. Also, the proximity of marigolds and wormwood has a bad effect on beans. Grapes are incompatible with cabbage, which is the enemy of grapes; Peas - incompatible with rutabaga, beans, and tomatoes; Garoch and beans conflict with onions and garlic; Combinations of peas with all types of onions, tomatoes, garlic, rutabaga, and beans are unfavorable; Wormwood has a bad effect on peas; The walnut oppresses everything that comes under its crown; Cabbage - it is incompatible with tomatoes, carrots; Cabbage does not combine with parsley, carrots and suffers greatly from nearby growing grapes; Tansy has a bad effect on kale. Potatoes are incompatible with sunflowers, tomatoes and pumpkins (they can cause late blight); Potatoes are suppressed by: cherry, apple, raspberry, rowan, sunflower; Potatoes do not tolerate cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkins; It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery; Bad neighbors for corn are beets and celery; Currants and gooseberries cannot be planted side by side (damage to the gooseberry moth); Onions do not go well with beans, peas, beans (cabbage, potatoes -?). The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him. Raspberries and strawberries - if they are nearby, this promotes the proliferation of the strawberry-raspberry weevil; Sea buckthorn, strawberries and nightshades - if they are nearby, this contributes to the development of the same diseases; Cucumbers are overwhelmed by tomatoes; Cucumbers are hostile to potatoes and aromatic herbs; Peach oppresses cherry, pear and apple trees. They need to be planted further away from each other. Parsley - cucumber, head lettuce; Tomato, dill and beans are incompatible with cabbage; Tomatoes are aggressive towards grapes; Tomatoes - cucumber, turnips, peas, beets, parsley, apple, red cabbage; Tomatoes are suppressed by potatoes and turnips.

Every gardener wants to harvest as much as possible and dreams of healthy, beautiful and tasty fruits growing in their garden beds. However, this is not always possible to realize, especially in the case of a small plot area. Therefore, for the most effective use usable area In the garden, some summer residents grow two crops at once in the garden during the season. This way they get more harvest.

This method is available not only for the southern, but also for the northern regions. It is only important to follow the planting rules and know which crops are allowed to be planted one after another.

Rules for alternating crops in beds

It is important for summer residents, especially beginners, to know the rules for alternating plantings.

1. The crop can be planted in the garden bed where it grew before, but not earlier than three to four years later. There are some exceptions to this rule: for example, potatoes, strawberries, beans and tomatoes can be planted in the same place for several years in a row.
2. It is necessary to adhere to the principle of fruit replacement. This means that a plant planted in a garden bed prepares the soil for subsequent crops. If a crop with a shallow root system was first planted in a certain place, then after it it is advisable to plant those plants that have a deep root system.
3. Experts do not advise planting crops that require early landing, after plants that were harvested late. So, for example, parsley, cabbage and carrots should be in the ground until stable frosts occur. Over the winter, the soil may not have time to restore its potential.
4. It is necessary to prevent depletion of the soil by planted crops. Before planting, it is worth checking what nutrients the plant requires. In other words, it is worth alternating roots and tops. For example, after tomatoes or cabbage, you can plant carrots or potatoes in the soil.
5. It is recommended to alternate plants in the garden depending on their ability to resist weeds.
6. If a crop that was previously in the garden was affected by pests or various diseases, then after it it is worth planting those plants that are resistant to these adverse effects. For example, related plants are susceptible to the same diseases.
7. It would be advisable to divide the plot into 2 halves with vegetables that need manure fertilizer being grown on one part, and plants that do not need manure on the other half. With the help of this division, it becomes possible to plant different plants on the site every year.
8. It is recommended to include legumes in crop rotation, since these crops enrich the soil with nitrogen.

What to plant before and after radishes, as well as with them

Radishes can be planted in the garden after zucchini, cucumbers, and squash. This vegetable goes well with the following plantings:

• legumes;
• grape;
• strawberries;
• White cabbage;
• potato;

If you plant lettuce and radishes together, the first crop will repel the flea beetle from the second. You can plant radishes between beans (bush). In this case, the first crop will delight gardeners with tasty and large harvest. A similar effect can be achieved if you plant radishes with nasturtium and watercress.

There are times when you have to uproot raspberries, currants or frozen apple trees in July-August. In this case, the freed up space can also be occupied by radishes.

After early radishes are planted in the garden at the beginning of spring, you can plant cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes and lettuce in the same place.

Exists interesting way landings. Since radishes are a crop that perfectly coexists with cucumbers, one can carry out practical way. It is necessary to allocate free space for planting. Plant cucumbers in the middle and radishes on the sides. It is worth planting in May - early June. At the end of the first summer month, the radish harvest will have already been harvested, and the vacated space will be occupied by growing cucumber vines.

Terms and rules for planting radishes, protection from pests

In order to plan the rotation of radishes and other crops, it is important to know the planting dates.

Radish seeds can germinate at air temperatures from -1 degree Celsius. The optimal one temperature regime for growing this vegetable - from +15 to +18 degrees. When exposed to elevated temperatures and the absence of the necessary lighting, the radish root crop will become coarser, and its tops, on the contrary, will increase the intensity of the growth of green mass.

In order to ensure the possibility of growing crops in the garden after the radish, it is recommended to sow its seeds in early spring. It is optimal to do this as soon as the beds in the garden have thawed to a depth of 4 cm.

If there are no plans to place other crops in the same bed after the radishes, then scattering the seeds can be repeated every 2 weeks. In summer, in June, radishes are able to sprout after 3 weeks from the time of sowing. In June and July, radish crops can be damaged cruciferous flea beetle. Constantly keeping the soil moist can help reduce the number of these pests.

When planting, radish seeds should be planted 2 cm deep in the ground.

To alternate radishes with other crops, you need to know the diseases and pests to which they are susceptible:

• scoops;
• flea;
• clubroot;
• garden earwig;
• field bug

Can help control radishes against pests folk remedies. It is important to avoid planting plants after radishes that are also susceptible to these pests and diseases.

Soil rotation

If you plan to alternate between garden plot planting, proper soil rotation should be carried out. Thus, the soil on which nightshade crops grew should be provided for berry bushes or fruit trees. The soil on which onions, radishes, pumpkins, and cabbage were planted should be added under nightshades. Rotted compost should be added under radishes, cabbage, onions and pumpkins.

Soil rotation must also be organized in greenhouses. The soil on which the tomatoes grew should be removed with a layer thickness of 15 cm and applied under the flowers. Tomatoes can be planted in place of cucumbers, after pre-treating the bed with compost.

It is recommended to carry out widespread soil movement on the site at least once every 3-4 years. This is an important component of a future high-quality harvest, with which you can achieve greater germination.

Bottom line

Gardeners who want to receive big harvest, swap beds and know which crops can be grown in one season in the same bed. With crop rotation, not only does the yield increase, but the plants also get better protection from a variety of pests and diseases.

A crop that prefers certain minerals will feel uncomfortable if its predecessor also required these same components. For example, the smell and taste of radishes depend on the presence of glucosinolates. These are compounds that contain sulfur. Therefore, in the bed where radishes grow, a decrease in sulfur is constantly observed. Therefore, it is necessary to add fertilizers to the soil that contain this element. In addition, almost any crop releases substances into the soil that can inhibit the growth of the same crop, which can lead to a decrease in yield.

It is also important to minimize the possibility of plants becoming infected with pathogenic bacteria and larvae left in the soil by their predecessor. The same is the case with radishes. If before or after turnips are planted in the same bed, then both plants are at risk of getting clubroot. Knowing the simple rules of crop rotation, you can get a wonderful harvest.

When planting radishes, and this needs to be done very early, preferably no later than mid-April, because this is a short-day plant, you should always take into account that this is an early crop, it is harvested in late May - early June, which will free up space. That is, it is necessary to provide for a replacement and prepare in advance for planting another crop after the radish.

You shouldn’t plant any root vegetables after it, because the requirements are similar, but beans, peas, beans, any greens - dill, coriander, basil can be planted. You can plant all nightshades - peppers, eggplants, tomatoes. It is also permissible to plant cabbage seedlings. In principle, it is possible to plant large crops such as cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini, and potatoes, but it is unlikely to succeed - relatively little space is allocated for radishes, and these crops require a lot of space in the garden to grow.

My mother-in-law plants radishes mixed with carrots. She says that by the time the carrots ripen, the radishes will already be eaten (just today I was doing such plantings). I believe that this is a correct conclusion. In addition, she plans to plant radishes next to the cucumbers, or more precisely, along the edge of the bed. Again, the neighborhood doesn’t seem to be criminal, and the radishes definitely won’t interfere with the cucumbers.

This year I sowed radishes very early, after we ate them and so that the garden bed would not be empty, I planted tomatoes.

The bed was well fertilized, the soil was loose, there was a lot of sand and peat in this soil.

The tomato bushes are very powerful, there are a lot of fruits on the bush, although I tied up the tomatoes 3 times, but they still grow.

I don’t understand what had such an impact on the growth and yield of tomatoes, either the soil after the radishes, or the type of tomato, but I still think the care also had an effect.

Now every year after the radishes I will plant tomatoes.

When planning planting, you need to take into account not only the commonality of vegetables in terms of the same diseases, but also their consumption of nutrients from the soil.

Let's start with the fact that radishes belong to the cruciferous family, which means you cannot plant vegetables from the same family after radishes in the garden, and these are lettuce, turnips, cabbage, rutabaga, and radish. Moreover, they cannot be planted in the same place for 3-4 years, since they can suffer from the same disease - clubroot, and as you know, the infection persists in the ground. It is not recommended to plant umbrella plants.

What can you plant after radishes? Can you plant after radishes? legumes (beans, beans, peas), onions, pumpkin, potatoes, tomatoes.

I plant radishes like this: I make holes across them, and after one I sprinkle the seeds, after two weeks I plant them in those holes that I jumped over last time. Then, when the first radish is finished or outgrown, I plant it again in its place, so I have fresh, juicy radishes all summer long.

Radishes are rarely planted in a separate bed; more often they are used as a neighbor for other plants. After all, radishes ripen very quickly and while this other plant is still just getting ready to flower, the radish harvest can already be harvested. For example, I plant radishes together with cucumbers, under the film and it does not interfere with them. But if you plant radishes in a separate bed, then after it you cannot plant other representatives of cruciferous plants or, as they now say, brassicas. And this is cabbage, this is radish - the closest relative of radish, which according to scientific classification is called garden radish, and this is turnip. This year it is good to plant various salads and herbs after the radishes, and next year beans, beans, onions, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, etc.



Of course, you can plant anything you want. But if you follow the table of crop rotation and plant compatibility, then after radishes you should not plant radishes again, like any other crop again in the same place. Radishes belong to the cabbage family (cabbage, turnips, horseradish, etc.), so you need to plant something else. It is better not to plant carrots after radishes.

That. good option There will be planting of legumes, pumpkins, herbs, and beets.

Cabbage cannot be planted after radishes, since these are plants of the same family, but beets can be planted.

Radish is one of those few agricultural crops that do not deplete the soil too much, and therefore, after it, almost any seedlings can be planted.

However, it should be remembered that there are early and late varieties this dietary and very healthy root vegetable. The first ones ripen in May-June, and zealous owners, having harvested the harvest, can, of course, leave the land fallow, but more often than not, they will plant in their place plants with a short growing season, for example, dill or parsley, tomatoes, cucumbers, Chinese cabbage etc. The main thing is not to forget about the compatibility of vegetable crops.