Do-it-yourself sliding gates diagram drawings. How to make the best sliding gates with your own hands: drawings, diagrams, design sketches

Retractable or sliding gates are a complex mechanism, but, nevertheless, because of their convenience, they have become widely used both in industrial facilities and in private households. There are many manufacturers making finished gate and accessories for them, a qualified workforce will quickly and competently install, but those who want to save money and use creative energy in business will be interested in installing sliding gates with their own hands. Moreover, it is quite possible.

Types of sliding gates

Sliding gates there are different designs, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's note them.

Hanging sliding gates

These gates were most often used at the entrances of enterprises and other protected areas. At a considerable height, in order to be able to enter freight transport, a metal beam, and no longer Not It was with the help of roller carts that the door leaf was hung.

Hanging gates - reliable, but material-intensive

This design is quite reliable, and such gates, created more than 50 years ago, still work, but now they are rarely used for two reasons:

The upper beam still limits the dimensions of the gate opening.
Such a design is very material-intensive and what was allowed in the days of the USSR at the then metal prices is simply unacceptable now.

Sliding rail gates

This is the most simple design sliding gates and theoretically the most reliable. The door leaf, standing on rollers, rides on a special rail located on the surface. The gate is still supported at one upper point in the place where the gate leaves when opened. Such gates are best used where the territory is periodically and constantly cleaned, which is often unattainable in Russian conditions. Normal snowfall will easily block the operation of such gates, and it can be very difficult to get them to work again.

A significant advantage of such gates is that in order to open them, they need to leave the fence exactly the width of the opening, and this, in conditions of lack of space, can be a determining factor for making a decision in favor of such a design.

Cantilever sliding gates

Cantilever sliding (sliding) gates were invented to ensure that the gate had no size restrictions from above and there was no contact with the ground rail. This one complex structure gate, but these "victims" are absolutely justified. The leaf of such gates does not have contact with the surface, but is suspended on cantilever roller blocks using a guide beam. Most often, such a beam and roller blocks are located at the bottom of the gate.

There are cases when the guide beam and roller blocks can be located in the middle or even on top of the door leaf. This can be justified when the cantilever units can be hung on the main wall of the building or there are any building structures or structures that can withstand the loads from the door leaf. Otherwise, you will have to specially construct a load-bearing structure for the gate, which is far from always beneficial.

That is why, in most cases, cantilever sliding gates with a lower location are used. carrier beam.

sliding gate prices

Sliding gates

Description of the design and operation of cantilever gates

A schematic diagram of a sliding gate with a lower console location can be seen in the figure.

The door leaf is mounted on a frame (1) made of profiled metal pipe. A carrier beam (2) is welded to the frame, having a special profile, inside of which roller carriages (3) fit tightly. At the same time, the beam can move along with the gate to the left - to the right along the carriages, ensuring the opening and closing of the gate. It is obvious that the beam and roller carriages bear the greatest load, especially at the moment of their closing or full opening of the gate. In order to unload the gate when fully closed, an end unloading roller (4) is used, which enters and abuts against the lower catcher (5). In another part of the gate, to fix the leaf when fully opened, an end roller with a catcher limiter can also be used, but it is not visible in this diagram.

To ensure that the gate does not have lateral rolling, there is a guide with rollers (7) and an upper catcher (6) that fixes the leaf in the closed state. To avoid contamination and foreign objects plugs (8) are applied inside the beam. The entire gate structure is mounted on three main power elements: a support post (9), a counter post (10) and a foundation for roller carriages (11). If the site already has sufficiently strong supports for the gate (brick, concrete or metal), then they can be used as support and response pillars, and if not, then they will have to be built separately from a profile metal pipe. The foundation for the console in any case will have to be built separately.

In sliding gates, an electric drive is quite easily implemented, which is fixed between the roller carriages. To set the web in motion, a gear rack is fixed to its side surface. The drive is equipped with a control unit, as well as various safety devices.

Benefits of cantilever sliding gates

Cantilever sliding gates have a number of advantages:

Such gates do not have opening leaves and therefore do not reduce usable area territory, and if the gate is accidentally opened, there is no danger of damaging the vehicle standing in front of them.
The gate opening has no lower and upper restrictions on dimensions.
Abundant do not disrupt the operation of the cantilever gate, as the canvas is hung at a distance of about 10 cm above the ground.
All rolling elements that ensure the operation of the gate are located inside the beam, so they are not affected by weather factors. Even a child can set the gate in motion, thanks to a well-thought-out design and low friction.
A strong cantilever foundation and a well-thought-out system for keeping the door leaf in a vertical position allow such doors to withstand heavy wind loads.
Sliding gates are the easiest to equip with an electric drive and security elements.

Still, sliding gates have disadvantages, but there are few of them:

Cantilever sliding gates are one of the most complex in design, and therefore their installation is not easy.
To install them, it is necessary to have a free section of the fence one and a half times larger than the size of the opening, which is not always achievable.

Determination of the possibility of installing sliding gates

Even with a great desire and remarkable financial capabilities of the site owner to install sliding gates, situations may arise when installation is either impossible or very difficult. What are these situations?

The space where the gate will roll back along the fence must be free for at least one and a half width of the gate opening. This is explained by the fact that on the door leaf, in addition to the part that closes the opening, there is also a technological part, which occupies at least half of the width of the opening in length - this will better distribute the loads from the gate to the cantilever block.

Sliding gates move in a straight line, which means that the required area free space the fence must also be straight.
In the place where the gate will move, there should not be any uneven terrain that will prevent the free movement of the gate.

There should not be gates on the path of the gate, it is better to make them from the opposite side. Sometimes sliding gates with built-in gates are ordered, but they will inevitably have high thresholds, which is extremely inconvenient for children and the elderly.
It happens that the owners intend to use the gate as a gate - when the canvas drives off a distance sufficient for the passage of people. This is not necessary, since any gate mechanism is designed for a certain number of cycles and their frequent use will greatly reduce the resource.
If the entrance to the territory of the site occurs from a narrow lane, then to facilitate maneuvering, it is necessary to increase the gate opening, which will affect the dimensions of the canvas.

If there are no such difficult situations on the site, then you can proceed to the installation of sliding gates with your own hands.

In order for the sliding gates to be installed correctly and have a long service life in the future, it is necessary to break technological process into several stages.

Preparatory work

The first and one of the main parts of the preparatory operations is the assessment of the gate installation site. What should you pay attention to?

If the gates will be placed instead of the old ones, having a different design, then the presence and condition of the supporting pillars is assessed. If they are made of brick, reinforced concrete with a section at least 20 per 20 cm, shaped metal pipe with a cross section at least 60 per 40 cm, their strict verticality is maintained, and they are securely fixed in the ground, then they may well serve as a supporting and reciprocal column of sliding gates. If not, then you will have to build your pillars again.
Near the support post, it should be possible to dig a hole for the foundation, which should be located close to the post, run parallel to the fence and have dimensions of 500 mm by 2000 mm.
If there is a new fence on the site, then all the work on its construction and preparation for the installation of sliding gates can be combined, which is most preferable.
Very often, brick pillars are erected at the entrance to the territory, which is both practical and beautiful. During their construction, it is necessary to make embedded elements in the form of steel plates 100 * 100 mm and 5 mm thick, three on each column. The top plate must be placed on the inside of the post against the edge closest to the opening. The distance from the top of the post to the plate is 200 mm. The lower embedded plate is located similarly to the upper one, but at a distance of 200 mm from the zero mark. "Zero" is considered to be the level of entry through the gate. The middle plate is placed in the middle between the top and bottom. Gate elements will subsequently be attached to them.

When building a new fence, you can take into account that most often the width of the passage for sliding gates is 4 meters. This standard has long been adopted in Europe. All manufacturers of components and accessories have necessary kits elements for this gate size. To greatly facilitate your work, it is better to use a ready-made solution.
It is necessary to decide on what the door leaf will be and how it will be lined. There are a lot of options, and in each of them the gate will have a different mass. This may affect the selection of the desired force elements. Most often in Lately corrugated board is used, but there are cladding options wooden clapboard, forged decorative elements or just leave the lattice structure of steel pipes.

Before purchasing the necessary components, you need to draw up your detailed drawing with a specification or use ready-made solutions, which are in the albums of gate manufacturers and on the forums of the owners country houses in the Internet. In any case, you need to be very clear about the design of how many materials you need and which ones.

Marking work

When the gate posts are installed, regardless of whether the fence is erected or not, you can already start marking. For this you need:

Determine the level of the zero mark, which is taken as the surface level at the entrance to the garage opening. Moreover, it is not necessary that at the time of the start of work, the entrance surface will already be ready. This can also be done later. This level should be marked on one pillar, and then transferred to another using a water or laser level.
At the level of zero marks, the cord is pulled close to the inner surface of the poles, and the cord must go beyond the support table (the one where the gate will move when opened) for a distance of at least two meters. The horizontality of the stretched cord is checked.

Sliding gate foundation

In order to perceive the loads from the weight of the gate at rest and during their movement, it is necessary to equip the foundation. To do this, as the upper part, on which the roller units and the electric drive will be mounted, you need a channel No. 20 with a length of 2000 mm. For the foundation, it is necessary to dig a hole, which is adjacent to the support post, has a length of 2100 mm, a width of 500 mm. Depth is determined by the level of soil freezing in winter time. In most regions, a depth of 1500 mm will be sufficient.

To reinforce the foundation and create a connection between the channel and the foundation, three square-section frames with a side of 150 mm from reinforcement No. 16 and a length of 1400 mm are welded. For cross ties, you can use reinforcement No. 10-12 with a pitch of 300-400 mm.

Finished frames are welded to the lower surface of the channel in the middle of its shelf. The center lines of the extreme frames are located 400 mm from the edges of the channel, and the third - exactly in the middle. After that, it is necessary to add 10 cm of sand or a sand-gravel mixture to the bottom of the pit, compact it and begin to install the finished channel with reinforcing cages. This should take into account:

The channel is laid close to the bearing post, strictly parallel to the gate movement line, flush with the zero mark. A previously stretched cord will help to do this.
In order to prevent cement milk from leaking into the ground from the concrete mixture, which reduces the strength of concrete, it is better to line the bottom and walls of the pit with plastic wrap.
The surface of the channel should be at zero, therefore, when installing frames with a channel, it is good to use pieces of reinforcement that can fix the structure in the pit. When concrete is supplied, a solid load will affect the frames, so the fixation must be reliable.
To make it easier to level upper part concrete with a channel, it is very convenient to install edged boards on top with a surface at zero level.

If you plan to use an electric drive with an automation unit and a security system, then you should immediately take care of the gasket the right cables. The wiring diagram can be seen in the figure. Cables should be laid either in a corrugated pipe, or better - in polyethylene pipe 20 mm in diameter.

It's time concrete work. For pouring the foundation of retractable cantilever gates, concrete of a grade of at least M250-M300 must be used. For its preparation, you will need components in the following proportions by volume:

One bucket of cement M400.
Two buckets of washed sand.
Four buckets of crushed stone or gravel.
The amount of water depends on the moisture content of sand and cement and ranges from 0.7 to 1 bucket. The use of plasticizers reduces the amount of water needed and increases the flowability of the mix, which is beneficial when laying.

The amount needed for the foundation, of course, will be larger, the main thing is to observe the indicated proportions. To prepare the concrete mix, it is best to use a concrete mixer or a powerful construction mixer. With manual mixing, the quality of concrete deteriorates.

Concrete mixer - an indispensable assistant for the construction of the foundation of the gate

First, sand and cement are poured into the concrete mixer. After mixing them, part of the water is added so that the solution is mixed until a homogeneous state. Next, crushed stone or gravel is added and water is gradually added until the concrete becomes homogeneous and mobile. When laying concrete in a pit, you must:

Feed the concrete mixture gradually so as not to move the leveled structure.
After laying the next portion of concrete, it is necessary to pierce it in several places with a bar of reinforcement - to remove possible air bubbles.
After laying and leveling the top layer, it is necessary to wipe the surface of the channel with a wet cloth so that it remains clean for subsequent operations.

Full maturation of concrete occurs within 28 days, but after a week it will already gain the strength that will allow installation of the gate. And at this time, you can do other technological operations.

Manufacturing of sliding gates

In the manufacture of the door leaf, if there are not sufficient skills in welding metals, it is better to contact the place where specialists in the workshop will make them according to the required dimensions. Sliding gates are a fairly large structure and at home it will be difficult to ensure that all parts are in the same plane, which is extremely necessary. Another advantage of manufacturing gates in workshops is that priming and painting can be done with a compressor, and this gives a better finish. But if you still have a desire to do everything yourself, then this is quite possible.

One of options door leaf is shown in the figure. The main frame is made from a profile pipe 60*40 mm, while the stiffeners and internal filling are made from a pipe 20*40 mm. The supporting beam, which is located at the bottom of the drawing, has a length of 6 meters and it must be welded to the gate, so it is time to purchase a set of accessories for retractable cantilever gates and profile pipes for making the leaf.

Sliding gate fittings a wide range presented in various stores and construction markets. It is both a Russian manufacturer and an imported one. When buying accessories, you need to take into account the weight of the future door leaf and the size of the opening. In our case, the size of the opening is 4000 mm, and the weight of the canvas, if it is sheathed with corrugated board, will be up to 400 kg, which must be reported to the seller.

The standard gate kit includes:

Guide beam 71*60*3.5 mm, 6 meters long.
Two roller bearings.
End roller.
Lower catcher of the end roller.
Upper catcher.
Guide with two rollers.
Two plugs per beam.

To weld the gate, you will need to make an assembly table consisting of three stands of the same height. As supports, stakes driven into the ground at the same level and boards laid on top can be used. The main thing is that all three stands lie in the same horizontal plane.

Another option for an impromptu mounting table can be bars or building stones laid on the ground and set on the same level.

A profile pipe purchased at a metal warehouse rarely has no centers of corrosion, therefore, before making a gate, all pipes should be thoroughly cleaned of rust stains and dirt. It is most convenient to do this with a grinder with a special grinding disc.

According to the drawing, profile pipes 60 * 40 mm are cut for the main frame of the gate. At the same time, one should try to make sure that during welding there are no holes left for access to the internal cavity of the pipe. Marking should be done with a tape measure and a square, and cutting with a grinder with a cutting disc, or better, with a cutting machine that allows you to accurately observe all angles.

Pipes are laid out on the mounting surface, guided by the drawing, compliance with the dimensions and perpendicularity is checked, and then all seams are successively tacked. After checking the dimensions and plane, all pipe joints are welded with a continuous seam. All remaining open ends of the pipes are welded with plugs. After that, all welding seams are carefully cleaned with a grinder with a grinding disc.

Profile pipes 40 * 20 mm are cut to size for stiffeners, which are then applied to the inner surface of the main frame, pulled together with clamps and pinpointed. This is how the entire internal frame is assembled. After checking the compliance with the dimensions in the drawing, checking the diagonals of the rectangular part of the gate, the plane of the structure, all seams are scalded. On the joints of the pipes of the inner frame, continuous seams are applied to each other, and to connect the side surfaces of the main frame with the inner one, seams of 10-15 mm are made with an interval of 400-500 mm. Welding must be done in a checkerboard pattern so that the entire structure does not “lead” from excessive overheating in one place.

A guide beam is welded to the lower surface of the gate. To do this, it is fastened with clamps, the correspondence of the axes of the door leaf and the beam is checked, and then it is welded with 30-40 mm seams through 400-500 mm. After that, the grinder cleans all the seams.

For priming and painting, the gate must be set in a position close to vertical. It is best to use an automotive anti-corrosion primer, which must be applied in two coats. It is preferable to do this with a compressor and a sprayer, but you can also use a brush, but it will take longer, and the quality of the coating will be worse. Particular attention should be paid to ensuring that the primer sheds a gap between the beam and the gate. It would also be appropriate to cover this gap with "sausages" of acrylic sealant. After that, the gate can be completely painted in two layers. In no case should the inner surface of the carrier beam be painted!

After the paint has completely dried, the cladding can be mounted on the gate, the most preferable of which is corrugated board, as it combines light weight, strength, beautiful appearance and reasonable price.

Sliding gate installation

The installation of a cantilever structure on a previously mounted channel can be started no earlier than 7 days after concreting. For the installation of roller carriages, it is recommended to purchase a mounting plate with studs, which will allow:

Adjust the position of the gate in height and horizontal.
It is easy to remove the gate for repair or replacement of roller blocks.

To install the gate you need:

Push the roller carriages onto the mounting plate, making the height the same and medium on all the studs. Do not overtighten the top nuts.
On the foundation it is necessary to mark the position of the mounting plates. To do this, 150 mm is measured from that edge of the channel, which is closer to the opening, and a line perpendicular to its length is drawn. This will be tangent to the edge of the first mounting plate.
To find the position of the second support, measure the total length of the gate and subtract 100 mm from it. The resulting distance must be postponed from the beginning of the return post parallel to the goal line to the channel. At this point, a perpendicular is drawn, which will be tangent to the second mounting plate.
If load bearing capacity the pillars are good and they will be well attached anchor bolts, then the application of additional metal poles not necessary. If not, then according to previously prepared mortgages, a profile pipe is vertically welded in height equal to the height of the gate plus 200 mm, with a section of 40 * 40 * 2 mm. On the support post, it can be welded close to the edge, and on the return post, it can be welded at a distance of 20-50 mm from the edge of the post.

At a height of 150-200 mm, at a distance of 20-30 mm from the supporting and supporting posts, a cord is stretched horizontally, parallel to the gate movement line. It will indicate the position of the tangent to the edge of the carrier beam. The cord must be taut throughout the movement of the gate: from the opposite table and up to the position of the edge of the gate when it is fully opened.
Roller carriages are placed in the carrier beam and shifted approximately to the middle of the gate. Then, with the participation of assistants, the door leaf is placed vertically above the channel. The roller carriages are bred along the previously marked lines, and the tensioned cord should touch the guide beam along its entire length. This position can be fixed with the help of supports from the planks. After checking the verticality, the roller platforms can be "grabbed" by electric welding in several places.
The door travel is checked, its verticality and horizontality, which is checked in the closed position. If necessary, adjusting nuts on the studs of the platforms are corrected. The gate should move easily along the rail, parallel (lightly touching) to the tensioned cord. The gaps between the supporting and reciprocal pillars should be the same, and from the zero mark to the bottom edge 80-100 mm. If everything is in order, then the carriage nuts can be tightened, and the platforms themselves can be scalded in a circle.

A plug is mounted on the rear cantilever part of the carrier beam. An end roller is mounted in front of the beam. Each manufacturer has its own installation method, so you need to use the instructions.
A guiding device with two rollers is mounted on the support column in its upper part. To do this, a bracket is attached to the pole for attaching the guide, and holes are marked. In brick or concrete, it is necessary to fix it with anchors with studs with a diameter of 10 mm, and in metal - with appropriate self-tapping screws. If welding will be used for fastening, then it is better to temporarily remove the plastic rollers. After mounting on the pole, the rollers are set so that they tightly cover the door leaf, maintain its verticality and at the same time do not interfere with smooth running.

The gate rolls out to the fully closed position, and the place of attachment of the lower catcher is marked on the counter post. The end roller should fit snugly on the catcher shelf, partially relieving the load from the roller blocks. The trap is mounted with appropriate fasteners and the door movement and the ease of their fixation in the closed position are checked.

An upper catcher is mounted, which prevents the gate from swinging in the wind. In a fully closed state, the position of the trap is outlined and its fastening is made. Very often, the upper catcher in the kit also has a protective bracket that is put on the door leaf, which saves from damage to the coating. The bracket is mounted so that when closing, it enters the trap.

If necessary, a rear limiter is mounted, which will not allow the gate to roll far when fully opened.

After a well-conducted installation, the gate should move very easily and be fixed in the extreme positions. The final work will be cleaning of all welds, coating them with an anti-corrosion primer and painting. Further on the door leaf, you can fix the handles for opening and closing, as well as install. Each manufacturer of drives has its own installation features, which are described in detail in the attached documentation. But this work will already be much easier, since the main thing has already been done - do-it-yourself sliding gate installation.

Video - Installation instructions for sliding gates

Video - Installation of a finished set of gates without welding

Video - How to make a sliding gate yourself

The versatility of sliding gates allows them to be used not only in industrial buildings, but also in residential buildings. If desired, they can be made by hand. After reading this article, you will receive recommendations on the preparation of the opening, the construction of the foundation, the frame, the drawings of the main structural elements are attached.

First you need to find out what resources will be needed to make the gate. Might be cheaper to order already finished structure than buying numerous tools. Although most of them are still useful in the economy. So, you need to prepare:

shovel;
welding machine;
grinder;
axe;
building level;
roulette;
screwdriver;
hammer.

Note! Almost all the tools from the list should be available in any home. The only exception is a welding machine, but you can take it from your neighbors or, in extreme cases, buy it - such a thing will certainly not be superfluous.

Having dealt with the equipment, you can begin to calculate the cost of building materials. In this case, we are talking about gates. standard sizes with an opening of 4 m. Everything you need can be bought at hardware stores and metal depots, as well as, if desired, replaced with something that is cheaper, more expedient, more durable, etc.

The concrete mortar for fixing the "mortgage" is mixed from cement, crushed stone and sand in a ratio of 1: 3: 3.
Roller carriages will be installed on the "mortgage" (channel ½ of the gate width). For greater strength, reinforcement no more than 1 m long is welded to the lower part of the channel. In total, seven to eight meter sections and three at an angle (17-18 m in total) are needed.
The door leaf measuring 2x4 m on one side will be sheathed with corrugated board. For its manufacture, you need: 180-200 self-tapping screws, 10 m² of corrugated board, a package of electrodes, 5 m of 6x6 cm pipes, 20 m of 4x2 and 6x3 cm pipes, a can of primer, a can of paint, a solvent.

Note! If a gate of a different size is planned, then all calculations must be carried out independently. You can use the online calculators that are available on the websites of many hardware stores.

The basis for the "mortgage"

The construction of sliding gates begins with the creation of the foundation for the "mortgage". As already mentioned, the length of the "mortgage" should be equal to ½ the width of the gate, in this case it is 2 m. 9-10 meter pieces of reinforcement ø1-1.4 cm are welded to this element and a hole is pulled out 1 m deep and 30 cm wide ( approximately the width of the shovel bayonet + 30 cm for the channel).

cement, 100 kg;
fine crushed stone, 300 kg;
sand, 300 kg.

Ready concrete is poured in such a way that one level with the “mortgage” comes out, otherwise water will accumulate there. While the solution dries (this takes at least 7 days), all the necessary fittings are selected.

Mounting profile pipe

The upper rollers, as well as the catchers located above and below, are conveniently mounted using a 3x6 cm profile pipe. It is installed along the entire height of the column, as well as in the places where the fittings are attached. There are two ways to fix this pipe.

Fasteners are often additionally reinforced with anchors. At the same time, it is worth noting that over time, the anchors installed in the brick loosen.

Pipe concreting is more reliable, but this requires a lot of labor, which is not always advisable. The mount will look something like this: the lower rollers are installed, then the door leaf, and the upper rollers are welded on top. With regards to the lower catcher, it is already welded in fact, focusing on the line along which the canvas approaches the pole at the opposite end.

"Embedded" are welded to the pipe, while using small corner profiles. In the future, "mortgages" are painted in the color of the door leaf.

Note! Without assembling the "mortgages", extremely accurate removal of the reinforcing bars to the catcher and rollers will be required, which in itself is quite difficult. Or you will have to fix it with anchors, which, as mentioned earlier, is very unreliable.

Hardware selection

After preparing the foundation and the "mortgage", all the necessary components are selected. Accessories include:

guide rail 5-7 m long;
plugs;
a pair of roller carriages;
grips;
end and top rollers.

Note! It is better to buy all these components, because for their independent production, special equipment and considerable knowledge in the field of technology are required. As a result, home-made fittings will cost more than store-bought.

First you need to determine the length of the rail. It should be 1.5 times the width of the opening. A product of 1.3 widths is taken in two cases:

if the weight of the gate is insignificant (less than 250 kg);
if there is not enough space to open.

All fittings are usually designed for a specific weight - approximately 500-800 kg. If the canvas is sheathed with corrugated board, then fittings should be selected for a weight of 350-400 kg. But if the material used for sheathing weighs a lot, then it is better to opt for 800 kg.

The canvas will "ride" on rollers, metal or plastic. At competent operation both options will last a long time, but it is still preferable to choose plastic ones - they make less noise when opening / closing the gate.

When buying, you should pay attention to the presence of the upper grip and rubber plugs.

Note! If all the components are made carefully and are sold in original packaging, then the manufacturer is serious and uses only high-quality equipment. Do not buy parts sold in plastic bags or having jagged edges - this is a clear sign of the "handicraft" of production, and in case of any malfunctions, there will simply be no one to make claims.

Frame construction

Step 1. First you need to prepare a place for assembly. It must be larger than future design.

Step 2. Pipes are prepared (for the frame you need to take 5x5x0.2 cm), cleaned of scale or rust, after which they are treated with gasoline and coated with a primer. For priming, you can use a spray gun (the work will be done faster) or a regular brush (the primer layer will be thicker).

Step 3. After the pipes have dried, the frame is welded. It is important that there are no holes left at the joints where water could penetrate.

Step 4. An internal frame is being prepared, which is necessary for fixing the corrugated board. A smaller pipe 4x2x0.2 cm is placed on a larger one - 5x5x0.2 cm:

in the middle, if two-sided sheathing is planned;
closer to the edge, if only one surface is sheathed, there will be room for corrugated board.

Pipes are welded in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 40 cm - so they will not “lead” at high temperatures.

Step 5 Welding points are processed with a grinder and covered with a primer layer.

Step 7. After the paint has completely dried, the frame is sheathed. The corrugated board is fixed with self-tapping screws on the inner frame.

Video - Gate installation

Step 1. Roller carriages are installed on the "mortgage", and gates are already placed on them (the rollers are threaded into the guide). Further using building level the verticality of the structure is checked and, if everything is fine, the carriages are welded to the channel.

Many use bolts for such fastening, since there are suitable holes in the carriages. But you don’t need to do this, because measuring and making holes in the “mortgage” will take a lot of time and effort. Moreover, if even a millimeter error is found, then you will have to cut off the bolts and repeat the procedure again.

Welding is more suitable, because it provides a field for maneuvers - if necessary, you can always cut it off and move the carriage. Welding is no less reliable than bolts - with it, the gate will stand for decades.

Step 2. Mortgages for other components are prepared from 6x3 cm pipes. In appropriate places, reinforcing bars are removed from the pillars, to which catchers with rollers must be fixed.

Step 3. The end of the guide is equipped with a roller with special clamps, after which it is closed on both sides with rubber plugs. The location of all elements is carefully measured, then roller carriages are welded.

Video - Sliding gates

Automation

Note! Automation can only be installed if the gate moves easily and without any jumps.

The installation technology for gate automation is described on the example of the Chinese model PS-IZ, which has proven itself very positively. The automation kit will consist of:

electric drive;
signal light;
gear rack;
remote control;
photocells.

For installation you will need the following equipment:

welding;
drill;
drills for metal.

The drive will be powered by a cable 0.2x0.2 cm, and for photocells 0.4x0.07 cm and 0.2x0.05 cm will be required. A cable with a cross section of 0.2x0.07 cm is connected to the signal light. The electric drive will be fixed on the same channel, as carriages.

Step 1. First, the installation location of the drive is selected. For this, a base is taken (it should be included), the drive itself is placed on it. The base is placed between the carriages and the working position is recreated - a gear rack is installed on the gear of the electric drive. The location of the channel is adjusted so that the rack is in the center of the gear and is fixed on the outer frame (but only on the profile pipe).

Step 2. The installation site is marked, after which the base is placed and scalded there.

Note! Quite often, the drive has to be raised by two to three centimeters. In this case, the remains of the profile pipe are welded to the "mortgage", and the base is already attached to them.

After that, the actuator is screwed to the base.

Step 4. Limit switches are screwed to the rail. They are mechanical and magnetic (the latter are more reliable).

Step 5. The drive is connected according to the manufacturer's instructions, after which it is tested. If everything is normal, the Photo-GND jumper is removed and photocells are installed.

Note! One element gives a light signal, and the other receives it. In the presence of a signal, the system functions normally, but if any obstacle arises in the path of the beam (a car, an animal, a child, etc.), then the canvas immediately begins to move back.

Step 6. A signal lamp is attached to the left side of the structure with self-tapping screws. This is optional, but for safety reasons, it is still better to put a lamp. To do this, you need a cable with a cross section of 0.2x0.07 cm. The cable is soldered to the Light and AC-N contacts on the board.

Actually, after thisdo-it-yourself sliding gate drawingsand instructions for the manufacture of which are given in this article, you can already use. For a more detailed acquaintance with the nuances of installation, watch the thematic video.

Video - Homemade sliding gates

In this article, we will consider all the intricacies of installation and construction, as well as all the possible problems that may arise if you decide to install sliding gates with your own hands. Usually the biggest difficulty is the drawing of sliding gates. Next, we will consider the basic principles of installing sliding gates with our own hands, video instructions and photos of various designs.

Width

This is the most important question that you must first answer. Width refers to the free space between the sliding gate posts when they are completely open. To answer this question, several factors need to be considered:

What cars will be driving? Cars? KAMAZ trucks? Tractor? Gazelles?
At what angle will they drive in, especially trucks?

In practice, the width of the gate is made such that when driving through, there is a gap of at least 35 cm from all sides between the mirrors of the car and the gate posts.

Practice shows that optimal width sliding gates are approximately 4.5 m and the ideal width is 5.5 m.

Please note that everything written above refers only to the width of the opening, but not to the width of the canvas. If we consider the canvas, then there is important nuance, which must be taken into account. The width of the canvas must be approximately 25 cm larger than the width of the opening. Otherwise, when the gate is closed, a gap will appear, which can be seen at an angle to the plane.

Height

Some people think that if the height of the canvas adjacent to the fence is 1.8 m, then the height of the canvas must be 1.8 m. In fact, this is not so. Let's let's look at an example:

And now let's see what happens in the end. In these cases, you consider the same height of the corrugated board, but do not take into account the fact that in the version with a fence, the profiled sheet will go straight from the ground and its edge from above is clearly 1.8 m above the ground. But, in the case of gates, the bottom edge should not touch the ground, it must be raised by about 15 cm.

It should be noted that the distance between the ground and the bottom of the gate can be adjusted using the adjustment levers, which are usually included in the set of rollers. Roller supports are put on and fixed on the adjusting platforms with nuts, and with the help of them, the installation height of the supports can be adjusted in the range of 6-10 cm.

Further. Unlike a fence, a profiled door leaf, as a rule, is installed in the profile from which the leaf frame is made, and the profile is most often welded from profiled pipe 40x60 mm. The gate height is already obtained: 100 + 40 + 2000 + 40 \u003d 2180 mm. But that's not all, because a guide beam is welded to the canvas below, which has a height of 60mm. That is, taking into account this beam, the distance from the ground to the top will already be 2180 + 60 = 2240 mm. As you can see, according to this scheme, the top edge of the canvas will be 240 mm higher than the top of the fence.

Do-it-yourself drawing and diagram of sliding gates

The design of this type of gate is so simple that you do not need any drawing. Below we explain the scheme of the gate, then you can easily understand their design. So, the basis for the design of sliding gates are two rollers and a moving guide beam along them.

The guide, moving along the rollers, is the basis of the entire structure. It is welded below to the frame and now it moves along the rollers. Since the rollers should not be located in the opening, so as not to get in the way underfoot, they are fixed to the side, outside the opening, and the gate is extended by a "counterweight". A typical design is when the length of the "counterweight" is equal to half the length of the gate opening. In other words, for an opening of 5 m, the length of the frame is 5 + 5/2 = 7.5 m. Moreover, 2.5 m in the frame will be the “counterweight” that goes beyond the opening and is on the rollers.

All other sliding gate components, the drawing of which should be drawn up by a professional, carry almost no loads and are required to protect the door leaf from swinging.

Let's take a look element by element set of accessories, which are required for the installation of sliding gates with your own hands:

End cap for inner rail. Its purpose is mostly decorative, and also to prevent snow from stuffing inside when the gate rolls back in winter;
Support rail with 2 adjustment rollers. It is located on top of the post and simply keeps the canvas in a vertical position from tipping over and swinging;
Upper catcher. It is mounted on a "receiving" pole. The task of the catcher is to protect the web from swaying when they are closed;
Bottom catcher. Almost the same as in the previous paragraph, but with a support platform where the support roller rolls up if the gate is completely closed. The task is to keep the gate from swinging, as well as unload the guide and drive rollers;
Support roller. It is both a plug for the front of the guide and a damper. During the closing of the gate, it enters the “lower catcher”, dampens the impact of the closing ones;
The guide itself, due to which the gate moves back and forth on the rollers.
Support rollers with adjustment stands are the elements that ensure the rolling of the gate and carry the main load.

Adjustment stands required for:

the possibility of replacing roller bearings if they fail;
adjusting the height of the gate in relation to the ground;
accurate installation of straight roller bearings.

Do-it-yourself installation of sliding gates

Mortgage

For most people, the mortgage element raises many questions, since the dimensions and shape of this part are not clear, and everyone is trying to find its design scheme. You don't need a diagram. The task of this element is only to prepare a certain basis on the foundation for further fastening of the rollers and the drive by welding. With this in mind, the shape is absolutely irrelevant, the dimensions may vary. Mortgage channel No. 10-25 is used. The heavier the gate, the more powerful the channel is needed. The mortgage must stand directly on the line of movement of the door leaf, the platform for the electric motor is shifted from this line into the territory.

Foundation

This is probably the most responsible important element the whole structure. To begin with, the foundation is required for a mortgage, where the support rollers will be fixed. Some companies and private builders offer a more economical version of the foundation than reinforced concrete, namely, they offer to twist a couple of screw piles, where the mortgage is then welded up and, by and large, almost everything is ready.

Then, next to it, another one is screwed slightly obliquely into the bunch of piles (since many piles cannot be installed exactly next to each other), under the pole. We will not even consider this method. Probably, it will fit under light and small sliding gates, for example, 2.5 meters long with a light frame, but the longer gates will “walk” on this basis.

We believe that in this case there is no alternative reinforced concrete foundation, but it can also be done in different ways. So, for example, it is often proposed to pour only one foundation - directly under the mortgage, or two separate ones, one of them - under the mortgage, the other - under the "receiving" pillar.

This option is much better than the solution of installing screw piles, but the presence of two separate foundations can end in failure, especially if these foundations are not below the ground freezing level. Just as a result of frost heaving, these individual foundations can move independently of each other. In this case, even with small offsets relative to each other, everything can end up with the fact that the gate will not fall into the traps that are on the receiving post, and you will need to reconfigure them all the time.

The solution to this problem is very simple (but more expensive than two separate foundations) - both pillars must unite with one foundation. In this case, even if the base is displaced, both columns will always be parallel to each other, moving in one bundle.

pillars

They must be installed before pouring the foundation. In the variant with sliding gates, they carry almost no load other than wind. That is, the canvas, the gate, as a rule, has a large "sail" and strong wind, the entire load is transferred from the canvas to the poles. If we consider best option, then for these gates it is enough to use a pipe 65x65x2 mm.

As to whether it makes sense to put U-shaped pillars or ordinary - there is no general opinion. Accessories can be installed without problems on single poles. But the U-shaped option is better, this option is preferable when in the future you plan to install not only the drive, but also a set of automation for the gate, which includes photocells. To begin with, it is much more convenient to install photocells on internal poles, and not on poles outside (taking into account anti-vandal considerations). And also, inside the pillars inside it is quite convenient to lay concealed wiring to signal lamp and photocells.

Frame construction

The frame is preferably made of metal. Structurally, it is made of pipes of square or rectangular section of several sizes. Pipes are used as a power frame bigger size, internal filling in the form of stiffeners made from smaller pipes.

It is advisable to immediately weld the gear rack to the frame (or threaded cylinders for the gear rack fasteners). Gear rack fasteners (threaded cylinders, 3 pieces per meter of rack) are standardly included with it. Be sure to check this fact at the time of purchase! In order to install automation later without any problems. Otherwise, then it will be very inconvenient to weld it evenly to the bottom of the canvas.

Its length must be no less than one meter of the length of the opening. This one extra meter (or even more) of the gear rack goes to the "counterweight" in order to constantly be in engagement with the gear wheel of the carcass drive motor. The gear rack is universal and fits 99% of drives(NICE, CAME, Alutech, Dorhan and so on). If threaded cylinders are welded for further fastening of the gear rack, it is advisable to weld them first to the guide.

Also, do not forget that if you want to install a wicket in sliding gates (by cutting the wicket directly into the door leaf), then it must be done in that part of the gate that is closest to the support rollers on which the leaf is held. If you want to make a gate at the far end of the leaf from the gate rollers or the middle one, then you can significantly upset the balance of weight distribution, strength, “increase the lever”, that is, those indicators that affect the rollers.

Yes, sliding gates can be quite expensive, but with their manufacturability and simplicity of design, they will give a big head start to lifting and swing gates. Installed clearly in compliance with technology, they are less likely to jam and deform.

Sliding gates are by far the most popular option today. More recently, not everyone could afford such a design, since only fittings could cost like a used car. But now their cost has become more affordable. For even greater savings, you can install sliding gates with your own hands.

This design does not require special care or maintenance; you can install automation on it yourself. These gates are practical and durable.

Required elements of sliding gates

By and large, the answer to the question of how to make a sliding gate is quite simple. To create them, you absolutely do not need deep knowledge in construction or any special skills. It is enough to have the necessary set of materials and follow the recommendations of specialists.

In order to make sliding gates with your own hands, you need to have a lot of Supplies, but most important detail accessories that are responsible for movement are considered. It includes:

Roller carriages or trolleys;
Support and end roller;
Upper and lower catcher;
Guide plugs;
Guide rail 6 cm.

When choosing high-quality fittings for the construction of sliding gates, it is best to contact trusted manufacturers who have an excellent combination of price and quality.

Sliding gate construction process

The production of sliding gates occurs in stages, namely:

Preparation of supporting pillars;
Sliding gate foundation;
Installation of electrical wiring for automation;
Manufacturing;
Retractable gate installation.

In order for home-made gates to serve for a long time, it is necessary to adhere to the work plan, and perform each stage with high quality.

Preparation and installation of support pillars

The first stage is very important. After all, it is on the supporting pillars that it will be subsequently attached this design. It is noteworthy that such a column can be made of different material- concrete, brick or oak timber. Experts recommend concreting the pillar at least one meter. In order for the concrete to set, you need to leave the structure for a week. If homemade sliding gates have brick or concrete pillars, then three metal mortgages must be installed on them. When everything is completely dry, you can begin the next step.

Foundation

To work at this stage, it is necessary to use a channel 20 cm wide and reinforcement with a cross section of 12-16 mm, which must be cut into 1-1.2 meters in length. It is important to weld the cut reinforcement to the channel on both sides. Then you need to make a hole with your own hands. It must have a length not less than half the opening of the proposed gate. At the same time, the width of the recess should not be less than 40 cm, the depth should be from 1.5 meters. It is very important to install the channel only with the shelves down.

When this device is located in the pit, you can fill it with concrete. Particular attention should be paid correct installation channel, which must be laid strictly according to the level. After all, this is the only way to ensure an even base for the roller trolley. Thus, the foundation for sliding gates with your own hands can be considered ready. It is very important to let the foundation stand for several weeks. Building codes recommend 28 days.

Installation of electrical wiring

The manufacture of the foundation should take into account the laying of electrical wiring for automation. In order to conduct this wiring with your own hands, you need to view the diagrams and drawings of sliding gates. It is there that all the ways and methods of installing wiring are shown. Such a scheme allows you to quickly and efficiently do this stage work.

Manufacturing

This is the most responsible and difficult stage. First you need to decide on the material for the supporting frame and start preparing it. Basically, sliding gates are made of metal profiles. It is quite simple and easy to use. Gates made of such a metal profile are reliable and practical, and can last for many years.

Before direct cutting and welding of the metal profile, you need to make a preliminary drawing of the sliding gate and indicate the desired dimensions. The scheme should consist of a supporting frame and an internal frame, in other words, a crate. Also, the drawing must have the dimensions of the canvas. For the manufacture of the frame, a metal profile pipe measuring 60 x 3 mm is mainly used. If there are no such dimensions at hand, then you can also pick up a pipe of 60 x 40 mm and 50 x 50 mm. The drawing must necessarily have the exact dimensions of the pipes used.

For the inner frame, a profile pipe measuring 40 x 20 mm is used. Also, it is very easy to attach the canvas to it using ordinary screws.

Having made drawings of the future design, you can proceed to the next steps in the manufacture of sliding gates, namely cutting, welding and painting.

The final stage of production

Using the schemes, you need to cut the pipes required amount. It is advisable to have a special grinder with a sweeping circle with you. It is used to clean rust or scale on pipes. When working, be sure to use safety glasses.

If the design of the sliding gates will be sewn up on both sides with corrugated board, then the pipes of the inner crate must be placed in the middle.

Experts recommend cooking pipes with tacks, literally a few centimeters, making an indent of 30 cm. At the bottom, in the supporting frame, it is necessary to install a guide rail from fittings. After that, you need to carefully clean the welding seams with a grinder and apply a primer.

When the primer coat is completely dry, you can start painting. It is advisable to cover the sliding gate frame with two coats of paint. After the design is completely dry, you can start sewing it. To do this, it is enough to use ordinary screws or rivets. The material can be completely different, from metal profiles to ordinary wood.

Installation

When the device is already ready, you can proceed to its direct installation. It should be pointed out that this stage is completely simple, but very painstaking and requires special attention.

So, on the channel, which was filled in the foundation, you need to carefully place the carriages with your own hands, while pushing them as far as possible. The rolling roller of the sliding gate has a size of 15 cm, so you need to move it back the same distance. After that, you need to put the sliding gate frame directly on the roller carriages and level them. After this installation, you can lightly weld the platforms of the carriages to the channel. Next, you need to once again check the correctness of the actions, and only then completely scald the platform of the gate carriages with your own hands. It is very important to do everything right so that there are no various distortions and the gate has correct position in level.

Then you can weld both the upper support and end rollers, the upper and lower trap. It is necessary that the end roller rolls onto the lower catcher so that it constantly unloads it when closing.

Thus, beautiful do-it-yourself sliding gates are now available to everyone.

Nuances when installing sliding gates

Many craftsmen who decide to make sliding gates with their own hands install roller carriages on platforms with welded studs. The main goal of such actions is the convenience of regulation and the ease of replacing them in the event of a breakdown. In reality, this is absolutely not the case. Indeed, if the installation is incorrect, you will have to re-drill the channel with your own hands, cut the thread, adjust to the desired size, and so on. Just a couple of millimeters can take several days of constant work, which will eventually force you to cut off the studs and weld the carriages directly to the foundation.

That is why, it is best to follow the advice of experts, and spend as little time and effort on installation as possible. Thus, high-quality sliding gates will please the eye and serve for a long time.

An integral part of the protective structure of the suburban area are the gate. Today there are many varieties of them. Let's look at the process of manufacturing and installing sliding gates with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of this design

Advantages:

This design of the gate does not interfere with exit / entry vehicle in a small area. Cantilever doors are a great space saver.
The presence of the lower fastening of the cantilever system allows you to equip the gate under any climatic conditions.
Finishing can be made from different materials, For example, vertical crate, corrugated board, forging and more.
The ability to choose a design option, for example, from a sandwich panel or profiled sheet.
Compared to other types of gates (for example, swing gates), there is no such thing as sagging hinges. The existing automation and the mechanism for closing / opening the gate provides for a long operational period.
There is a possibility to choose different automation for the gate.

Flaws:

Unlike other types of gates, for example, swing gates, the arrangement of sliding gates requires more financial costs, by approximately 10–20%.
To fix the console part and the drive, it is necessary to make an additional foundation.
Along the fence you will need to allocate sufficient space.

The design of the gate is divided into several types, each of which differs from each other:

Suspended. Since Soviet times, this heavy, but at the same time, reliable design has gained immense popularity. In it, the canvas on roller trolleys is fixed to a beam, which is located above the driveway, up to 5 m high. As a result, this height is a limitation when high cars enter.
Console. This type of gate is ideal for the climatic conditions of Russia. This design is not equipped with a beam above the driveway. Such gates will not be able to disable snow drifts, wind, dust and the like. So, the canvas is fixed to the beam using roller trolleys. In this case, the entire structure is fixed on a powerful foundation, which is poured on the side of the opening.
On screw piles. To a depth of 1500 mm, metal piles are twisted into the ground, which will be the carriers of the entire structure. Their manufacture and installation will take up to 3 days.
Mechanical. These gates are opened/closed manually. Mechanical ones are much cheaper in cost and easier to install. They are suitable for those cases, if the cottage or country house are rarely used.
Automatic. Such gates are the exact opposite of mechanical ones. They are equipped with an electric drive and remote control. For regular use, the best option.

Regardless of the type of construction, sliding gates require free space along the fence on one side. Moreover, it should be equal in size to the opening. As for console systems, the space should be 120-200% more.

Gate Calculation Features

Design calculation is one of the most important and priority stages. You should not ignore this stage, since the construction of retractable ones is much more complicated than swing ones.

The calculation process includes the following steps:

Determining the height and width of the opening. As a result, it will be possible to select the required type of gate for free movement.
Estimation of the weight of the structure under construction.
Making a sketch or drawing.

The calculation of the width and height of the structure should be based on the assortment of the market. So, if a profile or pipe can be easily welded, then it is very difficult to cut sheets of corrugated board in order to add it. Plus, the result will be unaesthetic.

Moreover, understanding how much the weight of the structure will ultimately be, appropriate mechanisms and moving parts are selected that can cope with the load.

If the canvas is supposed to be large, then be sure to consider and wind load. To the available wind strength prevailing in your area, add a small margin.

Although the easiest option for obtaining calculations is to contact a specialized company that will provide a folder with drawings and calculations, you can do it yourself. It should be noted right away that all the above calculations relate to sliding gates of the cantilever type. They are more difficult than all other types, so we will consider them in more detail.

The gate width (L) will be equal to:

opening width;
technological indents of opening/closing;
minimum distance between the centers of the carriages.

Based on this, L will be larger than the opening.

When moving the sash must be balanced. This indicator is achieved by calculating the counterweight. Due to this, the specific gravity of the structure will be evenly distributed over the carriages. Accordingly, in order to have as little load as possible, the counterweight must be large.

But what if there is not enough space for the movement of the sash? In this case, it must be understood that the length of the counterweight should not be less than 40% of the leaf width. The ideal indicator is 50%. As a consequence, the width L has a counterweight in its design.

Having such calculations, you can determine how much space is needed for the gate to roll back along the fence.

This value is determined based on the weight of the material used:

Decking ~ equal to 4 kg / m 2.
Steel, 2 mm thick ~ 17 kg/m2.

Gates with a frame of 4 × 2 m will have an average weight of 200 kg. With such data, it is possible to determine the indicators of the guide beam. In this case, you can build on the established standard.

For a gate weighing 300 kg, a 9 × 5 cm beam with a thickness of at least 3.5 mm is sufficient. However, a safety margin of up to 40% is required. It will greatly simplify the operation of the gate and increase its operational life.

The gate will require rollers, catchers and a supporting rail. Modern products such a plan allows you to choose the necessary design. We take as a basis the simplest estimate of the wind load, which is equal to 12 m/s to 90 kg/m 2 and is evenly distributed over the supporting zones of the canvas.

How to make sure that the structure you made will work without interruption even in strong winds? To do this, it is necessary to ensure that the strength of the fittings is greater than the calculated weight of the gate. A lateral moment of 100 kg/m is also taken into account, multiplied by 8 kg/m, which equals 800 kg/m. In principle, this is not much ~ 150–180 kg / m for each supporting element.

When buying a roller mechanism, make sure that it has a margin of up to 30% in relation to the weight of the gate. But this indicator does not affect the service life. This is directly affected by increasing the distance between the centers of the carriages.

In addition to all of the above, it is worth paying attention to other aspects. Pay attention to the rail for the gate, supports for roller carriages and the number of anchors. It is also important to correctly calculate the mortgages on the supporting pillars. In this case, it is necessary to build on 60% of the total mass of the gate, divided by the number of mortgages.

As for the calculation of the foundation, then special secrets there is no. But despite this, this component should not be overlooked, because often the cost of the foundation reaches 40% of the total cost of the project.

This type of gate has the following structural elements:

Guide beam. Takes all their weight.
Trolley or roller support. They need 2 pcs.
Removable end roller. When closed, it serves as a support.
Upper/lower catcher. The lower one, when the gate is closed, takes the load, and the upper one reduces the windage.
Bracket. It is important to keep the sash from lateral swing.
Stand. A support is installed on it, which organizes the movement of the sash.

Roller supports are installed on the foundation, which take on the load of the guide beam. The rollers are placed inside the carrier console.

Sash selection

High requirements are also placed on the gate leaf. Its design must be sufficiently rigid and stable. This is important so that the sash functions well in case of a strong gust of wind or ice. Moreover, it must be equipped with additional stiffeners so that it does not sag under its own weight. All this should be taken into account when creating drawings.

The presence of certain components directly depends on the height and width of the sash, as well as its weight. So, today on the market you can find a number of companies that provide high-quality equipment, namely:

Combi Arialdo and Flatelli Comunello from Italy.
Roltek and Doorhan from Russia.
Alutech from Belarus.

For example, let's do some calculations. In the basic configuration, a carrier rail with a length of 6 m is necessarily installed. And in order to choose the right accessories for it, it is necessary to take into account the length of the sash and plus 40%. Also, the selection is carried out according to the length of the guide beam and possible loads. So, if the width of the opening is 3.8 m, then the length of the gate is 3.8 m + 40% = 5.32 m. In this case, you can purchase a ready-made set with a beam of 6 m.

If the width of the opening significantly exceeds 4 m, then the purchase of components should be guided by a load of 500 kg. In them, the guide beam has a wall thickness of 3.5 m, and a cross section of 71 × 65 mm. If the width is more than 6 m, then it is necessary to take a load of up to 600 kg from the calculation.

Installation work

The movement of the canvas must be carried out with inside plot, namely along the fence. Based on this, it is necessary to prepare a place for the gate so that absolutely nothing interferes with this process.

The installation process includes 4 steps:

Electrical wiring.
Installing a return post.
Automation installation.

Stages of building a foundation:

The markup is done first. Measure 500 mm from the fence (width of the foundation). Also measure from the edge of the gate a distance equal to the rollback (the length of the foundation). So, you will see the perimeter of the future foundation.
It is often possible to use fence posts. If this is not possible, then a return post should be installed on the opposite side. It must be installed so that it is inside the site, and not in the opening itself. Otherwise, it will reduce the width of the opening.
If the gate will work on automation, then be sure to organize a place for wiring. To do this, you can use a square metal or plastic pipe / box. The diameter of the pipes is not less than 25 mm.
Now you can start digging a pit. The depth of the trench is up to 2 m, below the freezing level of the soil (it varies in each region).
For the manufacture of the embedded element, you can use the channel 16. Its length must correspond to the length of the trench. Reinforcement Ø12 mm is laid in the foundation. The reinforcement must be welded to the channel and connected with cross braces.
Thus, the resulting embedded element is placed with reinforcement down. When laying, make sure that the side of the channel is adjacent to the fence support post. Also, the channel must be set strictly in level and exactly parallel to the opening line of the gate.

The embedded element must be flush with pavement. The minimum gap that is allowed between the lower edge of the gate and the road is 10 cm. This gap can be increased using the adjusting platform. But it will be impossible to reduce this gap without breaking the fasteners.

If for one reason or another a gap of 100 mm is not suitable, then carry out a deep installation of the embedded element.

As for concrete work, they are carried out when the installation of the embedded element is fully completed. The level of concrete must be flush with the embedded element.

Installation

When the foundation has hardened, you can begin to install the gate. To do this, you first need to make markup. Along the line of the opening, not reaching the reciprocal column of 30 mm, pull the cord. This cord is the trajectory of the gate. The cord tension height is 200 mm. Further work is as follows:

Determine the extreme position of the first and second roller bearings. Step back from the edge of the opening 15 cm along the plane of the embedded element and draw a line for the position of the first trolley. Calculate the line of the second cart as follows: measure the entire length of the gate with the cantilever part and subtract 10 cm from the edge of the counter post along the plane of the embedded element. As a result, you will determine the location of the second cart.
Now insert the roller bearings into the carrier profile, placing them in the center.

After that, it is necessary to weld the second carriage of the adjustment platform. Then roll out the gate leaf into the opening and make the final position adjustment. Make small tacks by welding the second adjustment pad, as a result, the actions look like this:

Remove the canvas from the roller cart.
Next, remove the carts from the platforms.
Weld pads to the embedded element.
Attach roller carts to them.
Slide the canvas onto the roller supports.
Close the gate and wrench adjust their position.

Inside bearing profile make holes, this is necessary in order to install the trolley correctly. To do this, loosen the top nuts securing the carts to the platforms. After that, roll the gate back and forth. If the sash moves freely, tighten the nuts. If there are some difficulties in moving the sash, then slightly loosen the fasteners and level out all the design flaws, for example, correct the skews of the cart.

Now you need to install the end roller. It should be inserted into the carrier profile and tighten the bolts well. Also weld the end roller cover to the profile. This will allow the roller to play the role of the end stop in case of manual control of the gate. But in this case, welding fastening will be much better than a bolt.
As for the end cap of the carrier profile, it is mounted on the inside of the door and welded in place. It is necessary so that the snow does not roll under the rollers.
Now the upper retainer is mounted to the rollers. Therefore, loosen the fasteners of the rollers and install the brackets so that its side is directed towards the support post, and the rollers grab the top of the blade. With this in mind, press the bracket to the pole and fix it.

On next step work is carried out sheathing the frame of the gate. To do this, you can use profiled metal sheets. They need to be cut to size. Fastening is carried out with rivets or self-tapping screws. Each subsequent sheet is mounted with an overlap.

When the sheathing is completed, it is possible to install the lower / upper trap. The lower catcher plays the role of reducing the load on the roller carriages when closed. Therefore, they must be installed when the gate is loaded. Bring the lower catcher under the end roller with the gate completely closed so that the reference plane of the catcher is higher than the level of the end roller. As for the installation of the upper trap, this process takes place in the same way.

In conclusion, it remains to carry out the installation of automation. To do this, fix the gear rack, which implies a universal part with an electric drive. It is usually included in the fastener kit.

The choice of automation directly depends on the weight of the gate:

For an opening of 4 m, a drive is used - 500–600 kg.
For an opening of 4-6 m, a drive is used - 600-1300 kg
For cases with intensive opening of the gate, a drive is used - 1200–1800 kg.

Coloring

All metal elements of the gate must be painted. Degrease the surface first. To do this, clean the surface and grind it with a grinding disc on a grinder. Some places, for example, protected, wipe with acetone. Now you can start priming. It applies evenly. Moreover, the primer should be applied so that there are no drops or streaks. Thanks to such preparatory work the paint will lay evenly. As a result, the entire structure of the gate will be completely protected from corrosion.

The paint should be applied in two layers and only after the first has completely dried.

To carry out all the work, you will need to have such a tool:

inverter welding material. Such a unit will not spoil the metal.
Bulgarian.
Air compressor for painting.
Pliers.
Drill.
Roulette.
Level.
Riveter.

If you do not have sufficient experience in performing such work, then there is a high risk of making some mistakes:

Not enough good preparation foundation.
Incorrect installation and fastening of all components.
Incorrectly selected weight of the gate under the carrier beam.
If a creak is heard, then this is evidence of sand getting into the bearings.
Do not allow paint to drip.
Be sure to consider the depth of soil freezing. Otherwise, the posts may skew in one of the sides.

Video: gate manufacturing

Photo: ready-made sliding gate options

Scheme

On the diagrams you can find a lot of structural details for the manufacture of sliding gates: