Do-it-yourself installation of sewer pipes in an apartment. Sewerage diagram in an apartment - wiring arrangement using examples

Are you tired of rusty stains and stains in the bathroom and kitchen? Do bad smells make you blush in front of your guests? I want something new, but without extra costs on visiting masters? Then this article is for you.

Did you call a plumber?

The services of a licensed organization with competent specialists are expensive. You may not be happy with their work schedule. And it’s not our person’s habit to deal with such problems in an organization. We usually look for craftsmen through friends, through advertisements at the entrance, or even just go to the management company, and they will send someone there. And the plumber you sent or the coven you found may not be the one you expected. A person may not work in an organization because he does not like control and is not used to adhering to a certain schedule; he may have his own ideas about cleanliness and politeness. And we can only guess about this person’s experience.

And here the question arises: is it really so difficult to install a sewer system in an apartment with your own hands? If you have time, aren’t afraid to get a little dirty, don’t trust hacks and are used to relying on your own strength, then this article is for you. For those whose life motto is: “If you want something done well, do it yourself!”

Strategy and tactics

To cover the largest number of sufferers, we will consider a standard case. Do you live in ordinary apartment, which has a bathroom and a kitchen with a cast-iron sewer installed when the house was built.

You need to start with planning. Those. You need to decide for yourself where the appliances will be located: compact or installation, washbasin, bathtub or shower, sink, washing machine. If the devices do not change their location, this is already a good help. You can accept the installation diagram in whole or in part sewer pipes how it was carried out by the builders. As a rule, these are standard solutions and they work. If not, then it’s also okay, the main thing is to stick to the basic principles.

So, what should anyone who decides to do home sewerage work with their own hands know:

All appliances, except the toilet, should be supported by pipes with a diameter of 50mm.
If the device does not have a built-in water seal, it should be installed. Otherwise, unpleasant odors from the sewage system will enter the apartment through the drain holes.
The toilet is connected to a pipe with a diameter of 110mm.
The riser in the apartment should have a diameter of 110mm.

Sections of the system should be divided into horizontal and vertical. Extended sections should not be laid diagonally. Firstly, aesthetics suffer from this, and secondly, pipeline manufacturers did not plan this. This is necessary so that the effluent flows evenly without separation into fractions and the pipelines remain clean inside.

Horizontal sections are always laid with a slope towards the riser. The size of the slope should not be less than 3 cm and more than 8 cm per linear meter.

The pipes are connected to each other through sockets with a rubber sealing ring. The socket should always be located on the pipe that is closest to the riser along the flow of the drain. In extreme cases, it is allowed to install couplings.

Sewer pipes are secured to the walls or ceilings along which they run using clamps. Pipes from appliances should be located as low as possible near the floor. To fasten sewer pipes, metal clamps with rubber gasket, and the remaining clamps can be plastic, which will allow the pipe to move in the axial direction to compensate for temperature expansion. One clamp per linear meter, but not less than two per site. Very short sections and fittings are kept in sockets and at the ends of adjacent pipelines.

Pipeline sections are connected to each other by fittings. There are many varieties of them, but the nomenclature different manufacturers mostly general. To avoid problems with assembly and tightness, all pipelines and fittings must be used from the same manufacturer. If you do not find clamps from the same manufacturer, you can take others that match the diameter.

When planning wiring diagram should proceed from the principle of reasonable minimalism. Excessive number of elements should be avoided. You should not try to construct water seals from fittings if a factory element can be used. A water seal assembled from elbows may lose its tightness. It is not so convenient for maintenance (cleaning). Tees and crosses with oblique leads are more preferable than with straight ones; they stratify the flow less. Under no circumstances should a tee or cross with an oblique outlet be placed upstream.

To connect to the remaining sections of the cast iron riser, there are rubber cuffs and plastic adapters. Since trims and sockets on thirty-year-old cast iron rarely have the correct geometric shape and surface structure, it is also necessary to lay plumbing sealant along the junctions.

It is equally important to choose the location of the tie-in into the existing sewer system. The best option- this is when all apartment residents, one riser at a time, change pipes at the same time. It turns out clean, neat, reliable. But the realities are such that having the desire and ability to implement this comes to different people V different time. Therefore, we will consider other options. Let's say you are lucky to have neighbors below and above, or one of them agreed to place a joint in their apartment. What does it give? There will be no pieces of black cast iron cuttlefish left in your apartment, and the likelihood of leaks is minimal. And most importantly, after such a replacement you can safely proceed to finishing works, when your neighbors decide to change their pipes, they won’t have to break into your apartment. But it also happens differently, no one lets you go anywhere. Well, it’s okay, less work, you won’t need to remove the cast iron from the ceiling and then seal the holes in the floor and ceiling. No matter what, it’s joy. The main thing is not to lose optimism and clearly move towards your goal.

Another important point for residents of the upper floors. But first, a little background. When you or someone who lives below flushes the toilet, a good portion of waste enters the system, which, filling the entire cross-section of the pipe, tends downward. This mass of water, moving in the pipe, creates a vacuum behind it, which draws water from all surrounding siphons with a gurgling sound. But don't worry about this not happening. smart people Two types of devices have been invented. First, fan pipe, continues as a riser and exits through the ceiling into the attic or onto the roof and equalizes the pressure in the system with atmospheric pressure. Second, air valve, is used when the installation of a drain pipe is undesirable for technical or aesthetic reasons. It is installed at the top of the system, for example, on the main cross, and allows air into the system when the pressure decreases, but does not allow gases from the system to escape. A little subtlety. As they say, a boot is more reliable in battle, and a fan pipe is more reliable than a valve. There is nothing to break in it.

So this is what you are...

Now that we have clarified the main points, it is worth considering what we have to work with with our own hands when repairing the sewer.

	Sewer pipe for interior work. It comes in the following diameters in millimeters: 32, 40, 50, 110. The lengths are different, from 200mm to 4000mm. I repeat that the running diameters are 50mm and 110mm
	Knee or abduction. Like all subsequent fittings, they correspond to the diameters of the pipelines with which they are used. They are used with different angles: 90, 67, 45, 30, 20, 15. In general, there is a choice.
	Straight and oblique tees. The diameter of the side insert may be smaller than the diameter of the straight part. The angle of the oblique tee is 45º.
	Transition or reduction. Used to connect pipes of different diameters.
	Switching from cast iron to plastic. Many people also use it to connect the toilet.
	Switching from plastic to cast iron. It is used when there is a section of cast iron sewer with a socket left.
	Stub. It is installed, for example, at the end of a tee, which is used instead of an elbow, for periodic cleaning of the area. Or instead of devices that have not yet been installed.
	Same as a tee, but with two inputs. It can be single-plane or double-plane. Just like a tee can have oblique entries, different diameters inputs.
	Connects pipe sections without sockets.
	Revision. It is worth installing it on the riser. Through the screw-on lid, it will be possible to remove a doormat or other items that were lost by neighbors. foreign objects without complete disassembly systems.
	Toilet outlet. Standard adapter from your compact to a pipe with a diameter of 110mm. Available for different types releases on the toilet. For straight, oblique, vertical.
	Eccentric for toilet. The same as the outlet, but with the ability to simplify the positioning of the device relative to the receiving pipe. But without the ability to change the mating plane, because repeats the direction of the toilet release. With large eccentricity, it is often indispensable if necessary to install the toilet closer to the riser. Disadvantage - it narrows the cross-section in most versions.
	Corrugation for the toilet. Another way to connect the toilet to the waste pipe. The simplest positioning, but also the narrowest section. Plus the disadvantages of a non-smooth surface: it has a greater chance of becoming overgrown.
	Siphon for sink with corrugation. Easy to disassemble and clean. Preference should be given to products that are inserted into a receiving pipe with a diameter of 50 mm without elastic. Models for sinks, bathtubs, and showers differ only in the design of the overflow and the length of the mounting bolt.
	Pipe clamp with pin and dowel. Drilled, hammered and secured. It's simple.
	Silicone grease for connecting sewer pipes. It greatly simplifies the life of a plumber. Without it, connecting elements is much more difficult. If you don’t find it, you can use a soap solution, but the effect, of course, is not the same.
	Air valve. Fights vacuum after flushing water from the toilet tank.
	Transitional rubber cuff. Allows you to connect a washing machine drain hose or siphon corrugations without a 50mm shank.

Before you go to the store, draw a diagram on paper. Better in several options. Choose the best one. Write down all the necessary elements and fasteners. A small supply won't hurt. It is very unpleasant when something is missing in the midst of work. This stage is no less important than the installation itself.

Well, let's get started!

Everything is thought out, purchased, you are full of desire and mood to carry out the installation plastic sewer with your own hands, chose a fine Saturday day, sent your wife and children to their mother, and then you are surprised to discover that the old cast iron sewer and plumbing fixtures are still there. Well, we'll have to start dismantling them.

Indispensable assistants in this matter will be a small grinder for cutting pipes and fasteners, a powerful nail puller, a hammer, a chisel, screwdrivers and some handy little things, which will be discussed later.

At this stage there is no need to stand on ceremony. Breaking is not building. We disassemble the old system into elements convenient for removal from the apartment, right down to the riser.

If your case involves tapping into a common riser, and not replacing it, then get ready for an important stage in the work. We cut out a section and fasteners in the middle of the riser. Further options are possible.

Option one is good. The neighbors have already replaced the sewer system and you just need to connect to plastic pipelines in the usual way. Carefully disconnect the remaining pipe from the plastic. Dismantling is completed.

Option two is normal. The pipes on the bottom and top are cast iron, but there is an element of luck. There is a joint under the ceiling or at the neighbors under the main cross (if they let you in). Then you can break, loosen your upper bell and remove the pipe. The factory round shank will remain, with which you can continue to work. At the bottom, things are much more complicated. The point is that you must keep the receiving bell either after your main cross or the nearest bell of your neighbors upstairs (if they let you in). This is usually not a simple matter. In the Soviet Union they minted it conscientiously. This is where every little thing at hand comes in handy. Knitting needles, awls, fragments of a hacksaw, it may even require burning. The only task is to carefully split and loosen the shank in order to then remove it from the socket without damaging the latter. Be gentle but persistent and everything will work out. Tapping, swaying, picking, etc. If you have to split the shank, do not drop the fragments into the riser.

Option three, the usual one. At the top there is just a smooth riser without signs of a bell, which remains in the ceiling. Using a small grinder, we cut out the elements at a distance of at least 10 cm from the ceiling. You may have to finish it with a cloth. Be strong. The outlet must have an even cut perpendicular to the axis of the pipe. The operations below are similar to the previous option. That is life.

Cover the free lower bell with a wet rag and a plastic bag and wrap it with an elastic band, this will make working more pleasant. We take out the remains of the wreckage. Let's put things in order.

You need to start from the riser; in general, sewerage is always installed from the lowest point.

We insert an adapter from plastic to cast iron into the lower bell, after thoroughly lubricating it with sealant, into it a section of the 110th pipe to the main cross and, finally, the cross itself. We mark the axis of the riser on the wall with a pencil and drill and screw the receiving part of the 110 clamps. Then we install a revision and a section of pipe with an adapter from cast iron to plastic. The cast iron shank also needs to be cleaned and lubricated with sealant first. The cast iron-plastic adapter with a rubber cuff has sufficient depth to slide it onto the shank and then lower it into the revision socket. We secure the finished riser with the mating part of the clamps.

Next we will need building level. We mark the axes of the future system on the walls according to the required slopes.
We carry out preliminary assembly of future units and sections. When assembling, do not forget to insert the rubber O-rings into the sockets and lubricate them with silicone grease or soap solution.

If it is necessary to make holes and grooves, we apply the assembled elements and trace the contours. This will help avoid unnecessary damage.

We mark the drilling locations for the dowel clamps. We fasten and assemble our system.

Before installing the devices, it is better to install plugs.

Now the apotheosis. We install a pre-assembled toilet using special bends, eccentrics, corrugations or a cast iron-plastic adapter if special elements could not be purchased. It would be a good idea to lubricate the rubber elements with sealant, because... Not every toilet shank has the correct shape.

Installation of devices can be done slowly as water is supplied and finishing work is completed.

We sing a song to the madness of the brave

I hope that the time spent reading of this material it will not be wasted and there will also be a place for heroic deeds in your life. Now you can look at your friends who hired a plumber with a slight sense of inner superiority. And your other half should take a fresh look at your betrothed, because not every woman’s husband is a master.

When planning repairs that include replacing sewer pipes, moving or installing additional plumbing fixtures, you need to clearly understand how the sewerage system works in apartment building. Without understanding how the system works, it is extremely difficult to avoid errors during installation. And such errors, as a rule, are expensive, because the only way to eliminate them is to completely redo the repair.

It must be said that installing a sewer system in an apartment is not particularly difficult. At least this sewage system is simpler than the water supply system. The task of the sewerage system is simple: it is required to transport water from the water intake point (sink, washing machine, shower, etc.) to the riser.

Let's consider how sewerage is designed and assembled in an apartment building, as well as the rules and regulations for performing this work.

Sewerage installation in an apartment building

In houses that were built according to standard projects in the 60-90s of the last century, the layout provided for the proximity of the bathroom and kitchen, therefore the sewage system of any multi-storey building is basically the same.

As a rule, the wiring starts under the kitchen sink, then passes through the bathroom and toilet, where it cuts into the common sewer riser that runs through all floors. The riser has access to the roof; this is necessary so that sewerage ventilation in an apartment building can function normally.

The basic principles by which the system is installed:

The function of the apartment sewage system is the delivery of water from plumbing fixtures to the common house riser.
The system operates on the principle of gravity; the creation of additional pressure, as a rule, is not required.

To ensure that water can move without delay, the pipes should be placed at a certain angle. The angle of inclination is determined by building codes.
The slope must be maintained along its entire length, otherwise blockages will often form in certain areas (especially in places of turns).

Optimal pipe angle

Even small children know that water cannot flow uphill, so when organizing gravity sewer systems, it is very important that the end of the pipe at the inlet is located higher than the point where it inserts into the riser. In addition, care must be taken to ensure that the slope is uniform along the entire length of the pipeline.

When is a sewerage scheme designed? apartment building, it is known that the lowest point of the pipeline in each apartment has a certain position - this is the place where the pipe is introduced into the common riser. As a rule, this point is located at a short distance from the interfloor slab.

Therefore, to solve the problem, you need to correctly determine the height of the opposite end. To what height should it be raised? top part pipeline? This value is determined by two parameters:

Diameter;
Length.

The following values are accepted in building codes:

When using pipes with a diameter of 85-100 mm, the slope should be two percent.
For a smaller diameter (40-50 cm), a slightly larger slope is needed - three percent.

Advice! In practice, this requirement is fulfilled as follows: for every meter of pipe having a diameter of 50 mm, the slope will be 3 cm. That is, if, for example, the sink is located two meters from the riser, then the upper end of the pipe must be raised relative to the point of entry into the riser by 6 cm.

Can the sewerage system in an apartment function normally if the slope of the pipes is greater than recommended? It would seem that increasing the angle of inclination should benefit the operation of the sewerage system. Actually this is not true. If only pure water, then increasing the angle of the pipe would make sense.

However, contaminated water is sent to the sewer system. For example, in a hole kitchen sink Fat and small food particles constantly get in. All these contaminants have a “tendency” to settle on the walls of the pipes, forming blockages. To avoid having to clean the sewer system weekly, the sewer system in an apartment building is installed on the principle of self-cleaning pipes.

In order for water to wash away plaque from the pipe walls, it must move at a certain speed and fill a certain part of the pipe diameter. To ensure this condition, the optimal pipe slope is used.

Advice! To ensure that pipes can self-clean, apartments use two types of pipe laying: at an optimal angle (2-3% depending on the diameter) or vertically, that is, at an angle of 90 degrees. The latter option is used when the optimal angle of inclination does not ensure that the pipe rises to the height of the device connection point.

What devices can be connected?

IN modern apartments There are devices that do not need to be raised above the floor in order to connect to the sewer system. This is a dishwasher and washing machine.

Since these household appliances are equipped with pumps that supply water under pressure, the connection points for these devices can be located at any convenient height. Thus, washing and dishwashing machines can be placed at any distance from the pipeline entry into the riser and in the most “low” areas of the system.

Sewage scheme

Plumbing fixtures are usually connected to the sewer system. Although there are exceptions. For example, a water heater and heated towel rail do not generate sewage during operation, so there is no need to connect them to the sewer pipeline.

Most often, sewerage in an apartment is laid with your own hands according to the standard scheme:

The sewer riser is equipped with a cross that has three outlets: two for connections with a diameter of 50 mm, and one for a hundred-millimeter connection.
The main line, having a diameter of 100 mm, is used to connect the toilet.
The first 50 mm line is used to connect plumbing fixtures located in the bathroom - shower cubicle, bathtub, washbasin, etc.
The second fifty-millimeter line is used to connect appliances located in the kitchen. As a rule, this is a sink and dishwasher.
The remaining pipes of the system are branches leading from the main lines to the devices. The connection sequence is determined by the location of the device. The further away the device is, the higher it should be located relative to the insertion point.

Advice! In apartments large area two sewer risers can be installed. In such projects, the kitchen and bathroom areas are usually located at a distance from each other.

Repair of sewerage in an apartment

Since permanent equipment has not yet been invented, sooner or later every owner will be faced with the need to change sewer pipes. During overhaul You can replace the sewer system in your apartment with your own hands.

Pipe selection

Today, rarely does anyone install cast iron pipes in an apartment; most owners prefer plastic. Suitable for sewerage:

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC).
Polyethylene (HDPE).
Polypropylene (PPRC).

Advice! There is no fundamental difference when using the listed pipes in an apartment, so you can safely purchase any of the varieties.

Pipe assembly technology

The technology for connecting plastic pipes is extremely simple:

Each pipe on one side has a connecting coupling equipped with a rubber sealing ring.
Connecting parts (fittings) have the same couplings.
For joining, it is necessary to insert the smooth end of the pipe (without a coupling) into the coupling of a fitting or other pipe. An O-ring seals the connection.

It is recommended to first push the pipe all the way, and then move it a centimeter (no more) back. This trick will allow you to create a damper gap necessary to compensate for linear expansions.

Difficulties of redevelopment

When performing redevelopment, sometimes it becomes necessary to relocate the sewer system in the apartment. For example, if the bathroom is expanded by adding a corridor area to it or the kitchen is moved into the room.

In this case, it is not always possible to place the devices so that the water can move by gravity. To solve the problem, it is recommended to use special sewage pumps.

Exploitation

All residents should know how to properly use the sewer system. If household members violate the rules for using the sewer system, they will have to clean the pipes often, as blockages will constantly form.

The need to urgently clean the sewer usually arises if large debris gets into the system, for example, plastic bag or a rag. In this case, it will be possible to clean the sewer only mechanically using a cable.

But regular cleaning to remove fat deposits and soap deposits on pipes can be carried out using chemicals, which are sold in departments of household goods.

So, the scheme of the intra-apartment sewage system with which residential buildings are equipped multi-story houses, is not particularly complex. The main requirement for design and installation is compliance optimal tilt pipes, that is, pipes need to be laid at a certain angle. Therefore, the problem of how to install a sewer system in an apartment can be successfully solved by every home craftsman.

If it is impossible to fulfill this condition (for example, during redevelopment), forced sewerage in the apartment will help solve the problem, that is, installing pumps that will supply wastewater into the pipes under pressure.

To install a sewer system in an apartment, it is important to choose the right pipes and prepare the pipeline for assembly. Strict adherence to installation rules will help to avoid mistakes and reduce the risk of problems during sewer operation.

To equip indoor drainage systems, pipes made of cast iron or polymers are used: polyethylene, polypropylene and polyvinyl chloride.

Cast iron products are strong, durable (service life is up to 100 years), resistant to temperature changes, chemical and mechanical influences and absorb sound well, but they are expensive, and without special tools and installation skills it is difficult to install a cast iron pipeline with your own hands; here you cannot do without the help of specialists .

The drainage system is often installed independently from polymer pipes: polyethylene, polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride. Pipes made of polymers are easy to install and are much cheaper than cast iron, but they have two significant drawbacks: lack of sound absorption and a shorter service life - up to 50 years.

Each type of plastic has its own characteristics and operating temperature:

Note! For internal sewerage use plastic pipes gray, orange ones are for outdoor drainage systems.

An important factor in choosing pipes is throughput. This parameter depends on the diameter of the pipe and the functional purpose of the pipeline section.

Installation of sewerage in an apartment

It is necessary to install sewerage in an apartment in as soon as possible, because the drainage network in an apartment building is common, and installation work causes inconvenience to neighbors. Therefore, you need to plan the procedure in advance, decide on a set of building materials, carry out necessary preparation workspace.

Process Features

The installation of a sewer system in an apartment has nuances depending on whether the old pipeline is being replaced or it is being installed from scratch.

The sewerage system is a necessary part of communications in both apartment and private buildings. It has long become the norm to have a home comfortable toilet, shower or bath, kitchen sink with hot and cold water. The modern level of comfort also involves the use of household appliances: dishwashers and washing machines. The sewer network collects used water and liquid waste and discharges it into the main sewer.

Sewage system in the apartment

The system includes the following elements:

risers - vertical pipes of large cross-section;
horizontal pipes designed to drain wastewater into the riser;
fittings (couplings, crosses, bends, pipes, etc.) for combining pipes into a single network;
water seals (siphons) that prevent the spread of unpleasant odors.

Brackets are also used to fix vertical pipes.

Laying a sewer system is somewhat similar to assembling a construction set. Its elements are designed in such a way that they can be connected without the use of special equipment.

Requirements for internal sewerage pipes

The installation of a sewer system in an apartment does not require large loads on the pipes. But the level of strength of the products must be sufficient to ensure long-term operation of the system. In addition, internal sewage pipes must meet the following requirements:

withstand high temperatures and aggressive chemical influences;
have a smooth inner surface in order to freely remove waste;
be compatible with the external part of the sewer;
provide the ability to connect plumbing equipment.

Ease and convenience of installation is another important consumer quality of pipes. Ideally, you can install the sewer system in your apartment with your own hands.

Attention! A competent approach to the selection of components is a guarantee of reliable and silent operation of the network for a long time.

Sewage pipes: overview

Just a few decades ago, the question of choosing suitable pipes simply did not arise. The only way To carry out the sewerage was the use of cast iron and steel products. You can still see such pipes in old housing stock. But in a new building, the system will most likely be equipped with components made of plastic.

Traditional metal pipes are giving up their positions. But they have certain advantages and their use should not be completely ruled out.

Cast iron pipes

Very strong, durable and reliable products. Able to withstand high pressure and high temperature. The main advantage of such pipes is quiet sewage. Of course, there is noise, but it is much quieter than when using plastic.

Reasons why cast iron is losing its popularity:

high price;
heavy weight;
complex installation;
processing difficulties (excess length can only be sawed off with a powerful grinder);
rough inner surface.

The last point is the most important disadvantage of using cast iron pipes for sewerage – sediment accumulates on the walls, the lumen narrows, wastewater They're getting worse and worse. The system has to be cleaned frequently.

PVC pipes

These are the first plastic pipes to appear on the market.

Polyvinyl chloride is a cheap, lightweight, easy-to-process material. The pipe, made from PVC, is quite durable and UV resistant. But the cold reduces the elasticity of the material, it becomes very fragile and breaks easily. For this reason, PVC pipes are mainly used for internal sewerage installations. They are suitable for a system in which liquid waste is removed by gravity.

Polyvinyl chloride becomes soft at temperatures above 70°C, it is also susceptible to aggressive chemical substances(including some pipe cleaners).

A very unpleasant quality of the material is that when burned it emits poisonous gas phosgene.

PVC-U (unplasticized polyvinyl chloride)

To produce the next generation of pipes, an improved version of polyvinyl chloride was used - unplasticized. It differs from PVC in being much more durable and is suitable for use in both gravity and pressure systems.

Using PVC-U pipes, you can install a water supply system or an external sewerage circuit with a sewage pump.

Attention! For PVC pipes available big choice fittings. This is very convenient when working indoors, where the system often has a complex configuration.

Polypropylene pipes (PP)

The best choice for installing sewerage in an apartment is pipes made from polypropylene. They are universal, suitable for waste disposal by gravity and under pressure (although in the latter case you have to use special fasteners).

Products marked PP can be cut with a knife if necessary. Usage silicone grease allows you to easily connect components to each other.

The advantages of the material also include the following properties:

resistance to aggressive chemicals;
smooth inner surface;
durability (if the operating rules are followed, they can function for almost 100 years);
resistance to high (up to 95°C) and low temperatures.

The downside of pipes is that they need sound insulation. Otherwise, you will clearly hear the waste water passing through the riser.

Sewerage layout in an apartment: diagram

Before proceeding with the installation of the sewer system, they draw up a diagram according to which the work will be carried out.

It is convenient to use graph paper for the diagram. First, they draw a plan of the apartment to scale. It is not necessary to mark all the rooms; it is enough to indicate those where the wiring takes place. The room is included in the plan even if the pipe simply passes through it.

In case of replacement old sewer, the issue is resolved simply: you can reproduce the existing scheme. But if they mount new system, then it is necessary to make calculations and indicate where the pipes will be located, what is the distance between them, their length and diameter, as well as slopes.

The plan must indicate the location of each element of the system indicating the distance from the wall. If the pipe is laid through several rooms, then its parameters should be indicated for each room. This is necessary even in cases where the dimensions of the components are the same.

For a solid pipe passing through a wall, indicate not only the total length, but also the dimensions of each section.

The diagram also shows the location of the central riser, all service units and fittings.

Advice. A project drawn up by a specialist is quite expensive. But mistakes at the planning stage can cost even more later. Therefore, it is recommended to show the finished diagram, made by yourself, to a professional for examination. This will avoid annoying mistakes.

Points to consider when drawing up a diagram:

The outlet pipes of different plumbing equipment differ in diameter. The supply to the toilet or bidet is made using pipes with a cross-section of at least 100 mm. For other devices, a pipeline with a diameter of 50 mm is suitable;
Outlet pipes must not be connected larger diameter to horizontal bends with a smaller diameter;
When choosing a place to install devices, it should be taken into account that the supply to the siphon should have a length of no more than 1.5 meters if it is rigid, and no more than 0.8 meters if it is corrugated. On a horizontal plane, angles should not be less than 120°, and ideally there should be no horizontal angles at all;
Drain the washing machine and dishwasher no need to raise it above the floor. The devices are equipped centrifugal pumps, waste water is removed under pressure.

Attention! If possible, you should not purchase household appliances before drawing up a thorough diagram. Otherwise, installation and connection difficulties may arise.

Rules for calculating materials

How many pipes and connecting elements do you need to purchase in order to install a sewer system in an apartment? This can be calculated only after drawing up the diagram.

First of all, they clarify what standard sizes of pipes are available in stores. Special attention pay attention to the length of the sections. If the components are selected correctly, then there is practically no need to cut the pipes.

When purchasing pipes, you must take into account that you can use products with a diameter of 32 mm if:

the distance from the farthest point to the riser is no more than 7 meters;
the system has separate risers for each plumbing fixture.

For other conditions, pipes with a diameter of 40 or 50 mm are used. The riser pipe must have a diameter of 110 mm or larger.

Sequence of work

The sewage system in the apartment is being installed with your own hands in stages. Replacement of the old network begins with an audit and selection of a dismantling method.

Guided by the diagram, they determine what components and materials need to be purchased.

The purchased pipes and fittings are tried on, and then the fragments of the system are assembled on the floor.

After dismantling the old network, a new pipeline is installed and adjusted. Then they begin final assembly: seal the joints, install and connect plumbing equipment, connect the pipes to a ventilated sewer riser.

Attention! After the sealant has hardened, it is necessary to check for leaks in the network.

Installing the system, provided that PVC or polypropylene products are used, usually does not cause difficulties even for beginners. Pipes and connecting elements have a special design that greatly facilitates assembly. The end of the pipe with a chamfer is inserted into the coupling of another pipe or fitting until it stops, and then pulled back 10-15 mm. The result of this manipulation is a damper gap that compensates for thermal expansion.

Water seal in the sewer

Wastewater has bad smell varying degrees of intensity. To prevent it from spreading throughout the apartment, it is necessary to ensure that all plumbing fixtures have a hydraulic blockage.

There is equipment with built-in water seals (primarily toilets). In other cases, it is necessary to install siphons. They are a curved pipe in which a water plug is formed.

Siphons usually perform a dual function: they form a water seal and connect the pipe to the equipment.

A layer of water, constantly present in the pipe and renewed after each drain, prevents the escape of gases.

If the toilet or sink is not used for a long time, the liquid gradually evaporates, and the unpleasant odor gradually seeps into the room. It is easy to prevent this undesirable phenomenon; just pour vegetable oil into the drain hole; its layer will prevent evaporation. It’s even easier to fix, you just need to drain the water.

If all work on arranging sewerage in an apartment is carried out competently and efficiently, then the system will serve for many years.

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Sooner or later there comes a time when replacing the sewer system in an apartment is inevitable. The owner will need to purchase new sewer pipes and begin installation work.

Many people wonder how to properly install a sewer system in an apartment on their own. Of course, sewer installation skills will not hurt, but you can cope without them.

When preparing for installation, all water intake points in the apartment must be taken into account. It would not hurt to develop a diagram in which the dimensions and placement of plumbing fixtures will be preserved.

In order for the installation of sewerage in an apartment to be carried out efficiently, you need to know some nuances.

Helpful information:

So, the scheme has been drawn up, the materials have been purchased, all that remains is to prepare the available tools. To perform installation work you will need the following tools:

Hammer.
Bulgarian.
Chisel.
Hammer.
Screwdriver Set.
Wrench.

Having acquired everything you need, you can begin dismantling the old sewer system.

Dismantling of old sewerage

To prepare the basis for installing a new sewer system, you need to dismantle the old one. sewer system.

It is advisable to dismantle the sewage system in an apartment in stages.

Stages of dismantling an old sewer:

These are the main stages of sewer dismantling. However, first you should pay attention to the layout of the sewage system in the room.

Principles of wiring

There are two principles by which sewerage design is carried out. Adhering to these two principles, the sewerage installation in the apartment will be done correctly.

Slope. It is believed that the sewer system is able to function normally if the slope fluctuates between 2-3%. You also need to take into account the fact: the farther the plumbing fixture is from the riser, the higher you need to raise it to it.
Straightness of sections. According to this principle, the apartment’s sewer system should have a minimum number of fittings and outlets. After all, it is at the joints that the greatest number of blockages are formed. In general, it wouldn't hurt to install a revision.

Piping in the bathroom

The bathroom is the most saturated in terms of the number of plumbing fixtures. Therefore, installation work here will be more labor-intensive. For a plumber, installing sewerage in a bathroom is a responsible, but not difficult, task. The same cannot be said about the common man.

The difficulty of installing a sewer system in a bathroom is that the installed sewer network will force you to lift the plumbing. In addition, the bathroom should have several outlets, thanks to which it can be drained simultaneously. a large number of water. Here you need to take into account all the little things and nuances that only a competent person knows about.

When installing sewerage in an apartment, you need to remember:

The height of the toilet drain is approximately 180-190 mm. If the toilet is attached.
In this case, the height of the sewer outlet under the washbasin should be equal to 530-550 mm from the floor level.

More detailed information about the sewer system can be obtained by studying regulatory documents (SNiP, GOST).

Sewage installation

Installation of the sewer can begin after fixing the new rubber cuff in the socket of the tee with sealant. You need to keep in mind that the price of replacing the sewer system in an apartment will depend on the material chosen.

To install a sewer system, it is better to purchase. Affordable price, a light weight and ease of installation are the main advantages of these pipes.

Features of installation work:

The entire sewer system is very easy to assemble. You just need to connect the sewer pipes through gaskets. Gaskets guarantee excellent sealing. Just in case, you can use silicone sealant.

By the way, the sewage system in Khrushchev is much simpler than in new buildings. It has two elements: a riser and internal wiring. The riser is the main pipe of the drainage system, and internal wiring- This is an indoor sewer pipeline. A feature of the Khrushchev sewer system is that wastewater must move to the main riser by gravity.

Forced sewerage

When standard arrangement sewer riser causes inconvenience to the apartment owners, then forced sewerage in the apartment will correct this situation.

Forced sewerage is a pump that is equipped with grinders.

Thanks to its small dimensions, it will be invisible if installed behind some plumbing fixture. The pumped out wastewater is crushed by grinders and then moved through the sewer pipe to the sewer or septic tank. It is important that the size of the sewer pipe should be small, namely from 18 to 40 mm.

Despite the fact that forced sewerage in an apartment involves the use of thin pipes, its performance is at a high level.

It turns out that if the owners of the apartment are not satisfied with the location of the main riser, they can purchase forced sewerage and eliminate the previous inconveniences.

Allowable distances

If water supply and sewerage systems are developed independently, this does not mean that the requirements of SNiP can be neglected. During construction, the minimum distances regulated by the regulatory document must be taken into account.

During construction, the distance between the water supply and sewerage networks must correspond minimum values SNiP. SNiP requires that the horizontal distance between the water supply and sewerage be at least 1.5 m. At the same time, the vertical distance between the water supply and sewerage must be at least 0.4 m. Taking into account the diameter and material of the pipe, the distance from the water supply to the sewerage will be 1 .5-5 m.

According to SNiP, the distance between the water supply inlet and the sewer outlet must also be taken into account during construction work. Therefore, before starting to install a sewer system, it is imperative to study the norms and requirements of SNiP.

To know how to install sewerage in an apartment without violating the requirements regulatory documents, you need to systematically take an interest in the updated editions of SNiP.