DIY staircase to the attic: making a staircase to the attic with photo instructions. Types of attic stairs and their differences Wooden staircase to the attic

Attic floor in small house increases usable area, but for its use as a living space it is necessary comfortable staircase. It can be arranged outside, which somewhat reduces the functionality of the second floor. An internal passage upstairs turns it into a full-fledged living space. The market offers beautiful, reliable designs, but it is difficult to choose the exact size. Not everyone can afford to make it to order. A do-it-yourself attic staircase is an ideal option. You can choose the most suitable look, material, calculate optimal dimensions.

Choosing the type of product – what needs to be taken into account?

Having decided to install a permanent staircase from the room to the attic, determine its location. If there is someone’s bedroom on the second floor and you need a separate passage, then it’s a good idea to place it outside. At the same time, the likelihood of intruders entering the house increases.

Most people prefer to install stairs indoors. The limited area puts the first requirement for a compact design. If you correctly calculate the location and all the dimensions, then it will not take up much space, but will be a convenient, beautiful and reliable element of the interior. Best material for the attic stairs - wood.

How to choose a shape and type?

All stationary stairs are divided into groups. The first includes marching ones, consisting of one section, as well as two or more. A straight line with a single span takes up too much space, so it is preferable to arrange platforms or turns - winder steps.

Spiral-type staircases are twisted around a central pillar or rest with one edge on the wall. They are arranged when there is a severe lack of free space. It is not very convenient to use, especially for older people, and even dangerous for small children. Lifting furniture and equipment on them is problematic. Manufacturing is labor-intensive and requires careful calculations.


Another factor that is taken into account is the frame. The most popular load-bearing element is stringers. They are beams with cut-out openings for steps that rest on them. Another method of fastening is a bowstring, in which recesses are made into which support platforms are inserted.

It should be taken into account that the design on stringers takes less space, it is more durable. The entire load falls on the supports. Bowstrings play a supporting role, holding the steps together.

Between the two load-bearing elements, above and below, a tie is made of threaded rods so that the structure does not become loose.

Optimal location

The experience of professionals suggests best places for installing stairs to the attic:

  • choose the part of the house that is used less than others;
  • the platform is more economical in terms of space and manufacturing than winder steps;
  • a metal staircase is installed 1.5 years after the construction of the house, when it completely shrinks;
  • make sure that a hole can be made in the ceiling to allow access to attic floor.

The angle of inclination plays an important role: a structure with a greater inclination takes up less space. On the other hand, a too steep climb is inconvenient - it is difficult for the sick and elderly to use. The optimal value is from 27 to 40 degrees.

For any steepness, the distance from the step to the ceiling is at least 2 meters so that the person does not touch the ceiling with his head.

Calculation of product parameters - width of span and steps, height, length

After determining the angle of inclination, select the width of the flight of stairs. 125 cm is considered the most comfortable, but in a house with limited space and a small number of residents they are of no use. For one person, 90 cm is enough, and if there are rarely residents in the house, then 70 cm.

Determining the dimensions of a flight of stairs

The parameters of the steps require special attention. They usually consist of two parts: a tread to support the foot and a riser on which the height depends. In some versions it is missing.

There are formulas by which you can calculate the sizes and determine which are the most convenient and safe. The result will still be approximately this: height 17 cm, width 27–28. It is not always possible to adhere to optimal values. They are changed in one direction or the other, but one should not go beyond the limits: the height of the steps is from 15 to 22 cm, the width is at least 22 cm, maximum 40. For ease of use, choose an odd number.


At the next stage, they find out the height of the stairs: measure the distance from the base to the attic floor. From this value the number of steps is calculated. Divide the total height by the number of steps. For example, with a staircase height of 2.9 m and steps of 17 cm, 17 platforms will be needed.

The length is calculated by multiplying the number of steps (minus one) by their width. In the example: 16×27= 432. These are quite large sizes. If we reduce the steps to minimum value 22 cm, then 16×22=352. But it is not the only way change stair parameters.

Products with turns - platforms and winder steps

A straight single-flight design requires quite a lot of space. If there is a lack of it in a small house, products with turns are built. A platform is arranged between the two spans. Its length is from 100 cm, and its width is equal to a ladder.


When turning with the help of winder steps, they are arranged at least three. Requirements for them:

  • wide edge from 40 cm, in the middle part at least 20;
  • rotation is carried out with a radius of 30 cm;
  • For a comfortable ride, the winder steps gradually follow the line of flight.

The minimum width of the tread from the narrow edge is chosen to be 14 cm. Then the dimensions of the middle part, along which they mainly move, will be sufficient for a person’s foot.

Spiral design - calculation features

A spiral staircase consists of steps arranged in a circle with different widths edges It occupies a significantly smaller area, and this is its advantage. There is a support post in the center, and treads around the circumference. Their length is equal to the radius of the entire structure. The height of the steps is calculated similarly to a flight of stairs.

When arranging a spiral staircase, important factors are taken into account:

  • the length of the tread and the width of the span are equal to the distance from the rack to their border;
  • the steps are trapezoidal in shape with a minimum width of 20 cm on the narrow side and a maximum width of 40 cm on the opposite side;
  • for convenient ascent and descent, the height of the tread is made as low as possible;
  • vertical turns are arranged at a height equal to two diameters.

"Goose step" - the most compact staircase

It got its name due to the original shape of the treads. Installed in a small house if significant space saving is necessary, tilt from 45° to 65°. Only half of the step is wide, the second is minimum size.First, determine the angle, then carry out the remaining calculations, taking into account the following:

  • to support the leg, the width of the step is 30 cm, or less;
  • the dimensions of the narrow side depend on the strength of the selected material;
  • The height of the tread is 15 cm, you should not increase it too much - it is unsafe for people.

Structurally, the “goose step” staircase to the attic is made in the form of a marching or spiral one.

Bases - manufacturing process

The support for the spans is stringers. This is the simplest and reliable design. But its manufacture should be approached responsibly: the slightest error, and the steps will be crooked. The 80×160 board is cut to length with a margin.

The most delicate operation is to process the ends at the desired angle so that they fit snugly against the floor and the floor beam. The workpiece is loosely fixed in the place of the future location of the stringer and the upper part is sawed off so that it stands on the side ceiling. Then the same operation is performed with the lower end.

It should be borne in mind that it is unlikely that you will be able to cut accurately the first time and will have to repeat it. It is important not to cut off excess.

The stringer is divided lengthwise into three parts, not necessarily absolutely equal. Horizontal lines are drawn along the marks (there are two of them) using a level. Now each segment is divided into equal parts, the number of which corresponds to the number of steps. Follow the horizontal marks.


A line is drawn along the entire board, 50 mm or more from the edge. At its intersection with the horizontal markings, angles are formed from which the verticals are drawn. Remove the temporarily fixed board, check the distances, make changes if necessary. Place the finished stringer on the second board and cut out an exact copy.

Marking the bowstring is done in the same way. Only instead of cutting out pieces of the beam, you need to make grooves in it for the steps. It is better to work with a portable router. Application hand tools requires hard work and a lot of time. To maintain accuracy, a pre-made plywood template is used.

To support the spiral staircase, a thick-walled metal pipe with a diameter of 50 mm or more is installed. It is attached to the floor strictly vertical position. To install the steps, bushings are made, which are loosely placed on the riser, and washers are installed between them. The total height of each individual node is equal to the distance between the treads.

Assembly of various types of products

Despite the difference in design, stairs with stringers or bowstrings are almost no different, except initial stage– manufacturing of the load-bearing parts themselves.

One board is attached to the wall with bolts, fixed at the top and bottom. A second one is installed parallel to the width of the flight and the places where the steps are attached are checked for horizontalness. They must match in both products. Deviations are corrected by moving the loose structure up and down.

The installation of the stairs begins with fastening the risers. For production, a dry board 20 mm thick is taken. Installation along stringers is much easier than in the bowstring grooves. In any case, wood glue and screws are used. There are products without step support, which gives them a lighter, more elegant look.

For supporting platforms, use a board with a minimum thickness of 36 mm, with a width equal to or greater than the steps. They may protrude a little. The workpieces are polished and the edges are rounded. Secure with glue and self-tapping screws.

The components of the railing are balusters and handrails. Balusters are made from square slats or purchased from lathe. Stronger elements are installed at the top and bottom, with intermediate elements between them at each step. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws or spikes. There is a railing on top. The acceptable height of the fence is 85 cm.


The design of a flight of stairs with turns is more complicated, and so is the installation. The following scheme is recommended: 3 steps to the landing, then the rest. If winder steps are used: first two straight ones, then three rotary ones. Additional supports are installed under the rotating elements.

The assembly of the spiral staircase is shown in the figure. Node A – connection of the support pipe and the fence in the attic. There is a bolt on the rack onto which a handrail is placed through a slot. Everything is closed with a decorative lid. B – threaded connection of the support and bushing inserted into the step. B – washers and sleeves. G – fastening the support to the base.

Everyone can choose the most suitable design according to your capabilities. The only difficulty is the calculation stage. If you perform them accurately, install them correctly load-bearing supports, then a reliable ladder will come out.

Often the desire to convert the attic space into a practical attic appears during the operation of the house. Of course, this amount of space should be put to good use. And if you finally decide to start remodeling, then you should start by creating a staircase.

The staircase structure should be durable, comfortable and easy to manufacture. Residents of the house should not have doubts about the comfort and safety of climbing to the attic floor. Excellent option - folding attic stairs, however, today we are not talking about them.

We will look at how to make a staircase to the attic so that it meets all these requirements.

type of instalation

It’s good when the layout of the stairs to the attic was carried out by the designer, and the design was made in accordance with precise calculations. But we are considering the case when everything needs to be done independently.


The first question that will arise even before the calculations begin is how to position the stairs to the attic? Most in a simple way is the installation of stairs from the street. This method is simple because you don’t have to make a hatch and make changes to the interior.

However, the location of stairs in houses with an attic is often internal, since most owners of even small country houses prefer to install stairs in the house. Firstly, such a ladder is much more convenient to use. And secondly, it will not attract representatives of the criminal world as yet another front door, which, most often, is not reliable.

Material

After you have decided on the installation location of the structure, you need to decide what material the staircase will be made of. Typically, homemade stairs to the attic are made from hard wood. This is due to the fact that it is much easier to work with wood, and the appearance of the structure will be more attractive. This staircase looks very beautiful.

Advice! Before constructing a staircase, lumber must lie for at least three days in the room in which it is planned to install the structure. It is recommended to use kiln-dried wood.


Stair type

Of course, the desire of any home owner is to save as much as possible more space. Also, homemade staircase to the attic must be carried out in compliance with all safety standards, and the structure should not greatly shade the room.

The safest and flattest staircase will take up a lot of space in the house. A steep staircase will take up less space, but will make climbing and descending difficult and dangerous. That's why excellent option, especially for small houses, is a compact folding ladder. It can be made from wood and several metal elements.

However, this is far from the only design option that can be located in a small area.

It also doesn’t take up much space:

  • Such structures can be built on the basis of a stringer, a bolt, and two supporting bowstrings can also be used. In order to save space, stairs are usually made with two flights, between which there are winder steps or a landing. The single-flight option will take up a lot of space, but you can make a closet or utility room under it.
  • Spiral staircase. It looks great and takes up minimal space, but it is quite difficult to do yourself. It is much easier to purchase a ready-made kit with a stringer. Collecting it does not seem difficult, since there is always detailed instructions from the manufacturer.
  • Staircase “Duck Step”. This is the simplest type of staircase, which we will discuss below.

Design

The design of the future staircase is determined by the following parameters:

  • Lifting height. It consists of the distance from the floor to the ceiling plus the thickness of the top floor pie.
  • Area of ​​the structure in plan. The steepness of the stairs, its width and the size of the hatch to the attic depend on this.
  • Tread width. This is very important characteristic, which often forces you to change the type of construction and completely redo the project. Therefore, you should calculate in advance so that your foot rests completely on the step, but there should not be any extra distance. Most optimal width treads - 30 cm, march width - 80-100 cm, and riser height should be within 15-19 cm.

Construction of a flight of stairs

Preparation

If there was no hatch of the appropriate size in the upper ceiling, and most often there is none, then the construction of the stairs to the attic begins with it. Overlapping and flooring cut using a circular saw according to precise markings. The size of the hatch is determined by the dimensions of the ladder. When the cut is completed, it is necessary to remove all excess.

Before you start marking materials and cutting, you need to make a drawing of the future staircase. It can even be done by hand. The main thing is that all the details and their dimensions are included in the drawing. This will make it easier further work and will allow you to avoid mistakes when marking.

Then, according to the data obtained during design, the stringers are marked. The easiest way to cut them out is with electric jigsaw. In this case, there should be a “clean cut” on the outside. The outer edges of the stringers must be milled and then processed sandpaper and bring it to perfection using a sanding machine.

Advice! It is extremely important to ensure that the cuts are parallel, even, and that the level of the recesses for the steps coincides. This determines how smoothly the steps will be installed.

The number of steps is also determined by design parameters. In accordance with this they do required amount cuts. To facilitate installation, a groove is made for the lock using milling. In this case, it is necessary to strictly observe the parallelism of directions.


Installation

The installation of the structure should begin with the installation of a wall stringer, which rests with its lower part on the floor and its upper part on a support. A similar opposite structural element is mounted according to the design dimensions opposite the first part, while checking the location and parallelism using a level.

Please note that when constructing a two-flight staircase, you will need powerful supports to which the flight of stairs will be attached. For these purposes, you can use timber or metal pipes. They can be concreted for strength.

Then the frame is completely constructed and its openings are trimmed with furniture panels, if their use was originally planned. At the end of the work, the risers are installed in the places prepared for them, and then the steps. After this, the fencing elements and balustrade are installed.

Advice! The space even under a two-flight staircase can be put to good use. For example, you can make a storage room there for all kinds of rubbish.


The assembly of a multi-flight staircase is a sequential connection individual parts. If all the elements were made exactly in accordance with the drawing, then the process occurs very quickly and resembles the assembly of a construction set. However, the possibility of adjusting parts locally cannot be ruled out.

If grooves were made on the stringers for fastening, and ridges were made on the steps, then the elements can be connected using two-component glue, for example - Titebond. Otherwise, screws are used.

To give the structure a more attractive appearance, it is varnished. However, it should be taken into account that a varnished staircase may be slippery, especially if you are going to climb it in socks. Therefore, it is better to simply coat the structure with a special composition containing antistatic and fire retardant substances.

Advice! While it's drying paintwork, the room must be ventilated.

Construction of the “Duck Step” staircase

Another way to save space and make a convenient design for descending and ascending is the “Duck Step” type staircase. Its peculiarity is that the tilt angle can be up to 65 degrees.

Safety and comfort of movement along such stairs is achieved due to specially shaped steps - one half of the step is wide, and the second is a third narrower. Such steps are installed on bowstrings and alternate - a wide one is installed above the narrow part of the step, and then vice versa. As a result, the wide and narrow parts are arranged in a checkerboard pattern.

When climbing such a staircase, the shin of the leg does not rest against the top step, and when descending, the foot can confidently stand on the wide part. Thus, the ascent and descent are carried out in a waddle, which is why this design received the name “duck walk”.

You should walk along such stairs carefully and not get confused in the alternation of steps. Of course, this design is less convenient than a flight of stairs, but it is more compact.

Manufacturing of staircase elements

First of all, you need two bowstrings. They must have a length capable of providing the required angle of inclination of the stairs. The thickness of the boards can be about 40 mm and the width about 150 mm. To install steps, it is necessary to make secret grooves 10 mm deep in them.


In accordance with the height of the future staircase, the required number of such grooves is determined. You can cut them out yourself using a hacksaw.

Advice! In order not to worry about the depth of the cuts, you should drill holes in the blade and screw on the limiter plate.

The width of the steps (wide part) is selected in accordance with the angle of inclination. The greater the slope, the wider the step should be. On average, the width of the step can be from 200 to 250 mm. In narrow places, wood should be chosen one-third the width of the step.

Then the treads must be inserted into the grooves on the supporting beams and secured with screws. After installing all parts, the surfaces must be sanded. If you plan to paint the staircase, you may not need to sand it so thoroughly.

Conclusion

Now, knowing how to build a staircase to the attic, you can decide for yourself whether this procedure is worth undertaking. Your household will certainly enjoy the result of your work with pleasure and a sense of reliability.

However, if you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to purchase ready product. True, the price for it will be much higher than the cost of self-construction. For more information on this topic, watch the video in this article.

The decision to remake attic spaces for arranging an attic, it is adopted if there is a desire to increase the living space or space used for other purposes in the house without constructing additional extensions to the building. But for normal operation of the new rooms you will need a good staircase to the attic, which you can easily make with your own hands. And in order not to make mistakes during its construction, you should understand the existing staircase designs in advance and choose the most suitable option for your home.

Stairs for climbing to the attic floor can be divided into several categories according to:

  • location;
  • type of construction;
  • materials used.

The last classifying indicator in some cases may not accurately determine the options attic stairs, since sometimes different materials are combined to make it.

Location of the stairs

A convenient lift to the attic can be installed not only inside the house, but also outside, on the street. In this case, to go upstairs, you will need to leave the house. But such an external arrangement will be very convenient when living in the same house with, for example, an adult son or daughter. Your grown-up child will have his own entrance and his own room.

The most common option is to install a staircase to the attic floor inside the house. To do this, choose a place where it will not take up much space and will provide a convenient and safe climb to the top. Usually this is one of the corners in a common room, hallway, or a place near a blank wall without windows.

Types of stairs.

Applied spatial structures

Among possible options There are six types of mounted stairs various types designs:

  • straight single-march;
  • rotary double-flight with an intermediate horizontal platform;
  • with winder steps;
  • vertical spiral staircases to the attic in a small house;
  • involute of complex geometric configuration;
  • folding and lifting.

Single march stairs can be considered the simplest. This is a structure consisting of one straight flight and a railing enclosing it. Their main disadvantage is the large amount of space they occupy internal space the room in which they are installed.

Decreasing the length will increase the angle of elevation and make it too steep and awkward. Therefore, single-flight staircases to the top floor are arranged in wide hallways or large rooms up to 3 meters high.

Two-march occupies a much smaller area, but is more difficult to manufacture and install. In addition to two straight flights, the design includes a securely fixed horizontal platform for the ability to turn at right angles or 180 degrees.

Such stairs are placed in the corner of the room or in a specially provided spatial niche. Installing a turntable allows you to obtain a convenient angle of inclination at any ceiling height.

Stairs with winder steps even more compact. This is achieved by replacing the horizontal turntable with trapezoidal steps. Their narrow side is smaller than the wide part and is directed towards the middle of the spread. They can be one-, two-, or three-flight systems that are installed in relatively small rooms at any ceiling height.

Screw The stairs are very original, beautiful, but rather inconvenient for constant use. Especially for older people. In addition, the furniture will have to be lifted through the windows or before installing a screw lift. Such structures have a central axial support and are completely assembled from winder-type steps.

Involute stairs from the first floor are an intermediate solution between marching and spiral spatial structures. They look very beautiful and original. But they are distinguished by the high complexity of manufacturing parts and assembling them at their location.

It is most likely impossible to make such a system yourself and you will have to invite a specialist. As a result, this will be a convenient but expensive solution to the issue.

Folding small structures are a system of sections that fold or slide into each other. Quite difficult to manufacture, but you can always find a wide variety of folding stairs on sale at very affordable prices.

This is a good option for installing a staircase to the attic with a small area - if desired, it can always be removed to the attic floor, and the opening can be closed with a lowering hatch.

What are stairs made of?

The choice of material for the manufacture of a stair lift depends, first of all, on the chosen design, the desired design and the financial capabilities of the developer. They are made from:

Sharing is widely used various materials. For example, Basic structure it is made of metal, and the steps and railings are made of wood. Well, or the supporting one is metal, stone steps, and the railings are made of glass and wood.

Wooden stairs are not only beautiful and suitable for any interior style, but also create additional comfort and a feeling of closeness to nature. Wood is the most affordable and suitable material for DIY production and installation.

However, most types of wood are not particularly strong and durable, and dense varieties are expensive and not so easy to process. When finishing steps, you should not over-polish them as they become slippery and reduce safety.

Metal in the interior of the premises it always looks elegant and attracts attention, especially if forged or chrome-plated elements are used for production. Metal structures are reliable and durable, and the plasticity of the material allows them to be given any spatial configuration.

However, to make metal stairs with your own hands, you need to have metalworking skills and experience as a welder to ensure the reliability and strength of the connections.

Stairs from concrete heavy, massive and require a reliable reinforcing frame, and in certain cases, support metal structures. The best option their installation - arrangement of the external entrance to the attic.

Moreover, only for stone buildings. U wooden building such a bulky design will look ridiculous. But making a concrete flight of stairs yourself is not so difficult.

Steps from natural or artificial stone look beautiful. They are assembled on metal supporting stringers. Durable and reliable. If forged railings are installed, they create a feeling of luxury and speak of the wealth of the owners. Main disadvantage These materials are high cost and require hiring experienced specialists for installation.

To answer the question of how to make a staircase to the upper floor, you need to determine:

  • where is it installed;
  • choice of design type;
  • what materials will be used for production.

Manufacturing of parts and installation

A builder who does not have professional experience is recommended to opt for a simple wooden marching structure. In this case, a single-flight staircase will be located along a blank wall that does not have windows, where it can be further secured.

The double-flight is placed in the corner of the room or also along the wall with a lower flight small size, turning 90 degrees towards the room. A good solution could be to install an attic staircase on the veranda, which will become an insulated vestibule and protect the room from the cold.

What you need for work

Wood for manufacturing must be selected from dense hardwood. The most suitable are oak, larch, birch, and cedar. All purchased material must be brought into the room and kept for 3-4 days before starting work. During this time, the temperature of the wood will become equal to the temperature in the room and will acquire the correct installation size.

The right choice would be to install a 65x25 mm steel profile pipe as load-bearing stringers. This will strengthen the structure and allow the use of welding for mounting supports. wooden steps, abandoning the use of less reliable tenons and screws. In addition, this will allow you to use metal to install the railings or make it easier to install wooden balusters.

To protect wood from moisture, wood-boring insects, in case of fire and to obtain a beautiful appearance, you need to purchase the appropriate impregnations, stain and varnish. For painting metal - primer and paint.

Tool

Kit the necessary tool depends on the place of manufacture of the blanks. If the step parts are made in a carpentry workshop, then this is only a tool for assembly:

  • jigsaw;
  • electric drill;
  • electric plane;
  • angle grinder (grinder);
  • wood hacksaw;
  • chisel and chisel;
  • hammer and mallet.

When used for installation of steel profile pipes and corners, you will need welding machine and electrodes.

Calculation part of the work

To ensure convenient and safe operation of the staircase structure, the following regulatory requirements must be observed:

  • the angle of rise of marches is 20-40 degrees (maximum value 45);
  • passage width 800-1000 mm;
  • step depth 200-320 mm;
  • riser height 150-200 mm;
  • narrow edge of trapezoids at least 100 mm.

Recommended step sizes.

The wide part of winder steps is not standardized. The recommended width of the intermediate horizontal platform is 800 mm, the length must correspond to the adjacent ladder.

The calculation begins by measuring the height of the lower floor room, taking into account the clean floor of the attic. To determine the number of steps, you need to divide the previously obtained value by the accepted height of the riser. It is selected in such a way that when divided, the result is an even whole number corresponding to the standard range.

So, with a floor height of 3 meters, a riser measuring 187 mm is suitable. In this case, the number of steps will be 16.04, which can be rounded to 16. Then the length of a single-flight staircase with a step width of 280 mm will be 16 x 280 = 4480 mm.


Calculation of stair steps.

Now you need to measure the existing length of the room, which should be equal to 4480 + 800 = 5280 mm. If flight of stairs does not correspond to the received data, then you will have to install a two-flight staircase.

Elements protruding from walls building structures and the size of the free passage on the upper steps of the stairs should provide a free passage with a height of at least 1850 mm, optimally 2000 mm.

If the dimensions of the hatch are too large, then the height of the riser should be increased, which will reduce the length of the stairs and increase the angle of inclination. The length of the stringer is calculated using the Pythagorean formula: the sum of the squares of the legs is equal to the square of the hypotenuse.


The angle of inclination of the stairs.

Now transfer your results onto paper in the form of a rough drawing. In this case, be sure to reduce the size of the riser by the thickness of the board used to lay the steps.


An example of a staircase calculation drawing.

Manufacturing of components and installation

So, we’ve come close to how to make a staircase to the attic. The parts necessary for installing the stairs are manufactured in accordance with the drawing data. Initially, stringers are cut from two 5-meter boards.

Place the finished stringers in place and secure them with hardware fasteners, dowels or pins. If one of boards coming along the wall, then provide additional fastening to building structures.

After this, proceed to installing the steps, which can be secured with screws using self-tapping screws or wooden cotter pins with glue.


Fastening the tread.

The final stage is the installation of balusters and railings. It is better to buy these parts ready-made, manufactured in a factory. This will greatly facilitate the work, making it simple and understandable.

Video on the topic


It is not always possible to purchase a ready-made staircase to the attic the right decision. The internal dimensions of the rooms differ, and the design may simply not fit in size. Individual order - expensive pleasure. Therefore, many people think about making a staircase with their own hands.

Working locally is the optimal plan of action. This is how it will be possible to take into account any nuances of the layout of the house and eliminate inaccuracies in a timely manner. Any craftsman with even the slightest carpentry skills can construct a wooden staircase correctly.

Options for stairs to the attic: advantages and disadvantages of the main types

Construction of an attic space - current and effective method expansion of the living space of a private house. However, in this case, it is necessary to resolve the issue of climbing to the upper floor. Mistakes made during the design and installation of a staircase structure can “zero out” all the advantages of the attic space. An ill-conceived placement and type of design can “eat” additional meters, purchased during the arrangement of a living room.

Based on the location of the staircase relative to the house, two types of structures are distinguished: external and internal.

An external staircase can be used as a temporary or permanent staircase. The external design has some features:

  1. An attic floor with a separate entrance allows you to delimit the living space. This is especially true if the owner of the “attic” room wants to enter his room without disturbing the rest of the household.
  2. The external staircase does not clutter up the space inside the premises, which is very important for houses with a small area.
  3. It should be taken into account that intruders and thieves often try to enter through the external staircase. To arrange a house in an unguarded holiday village, it is better to choose internal compact structures.

Internal staircase layout is the most common option. If the area of ​​the house allows, then such a design - optimal solution. An attic staircase can become an interior decoration, and in winter time to get to the second floor you won’t have to cross the street. A possible disadvantage is the use of usable space.

Based on the type of construction, there are five main types of stairs to the attic:


By comparing the pros and cons, taking into account the dimensions of the room and existing circumstances, it will be possible to determine the optimal staircase design for the house.

Installation of stairs to the attic: basic terms

The main structural elements of the staircase are: stringer, tread and risers.

Stringer - load-bearing beam. Essentially, this is a board on which fragments have been cut for installing steps. When making a wooden staircase, the thickness of the stringer should not be less than 50 mm, the minimum permissible width is 250 mm. As a rule, two load-bearing beams are used. An additional stringer is installed if the width of the attic staircase exceeds 1.2 meters.

Tread is the horizontal part of the step that is stepped on while walking. When developing a drawing, it must be taken into account that the greater the distance between load-bearing beams, the stronger the steps should be. For the manufacture of these parts, boards with a thickness of 25-50 mm are used. The treads have an overhang of 20-40 mm over the proper step.

Riser - the vertical part between the treads. This structural element usually carries no load. In some versions of stairs, there are no risers at all - such a rise visually seems easier.

Choosing a material for making a wooden staircase to the attic

The staircase structure is a full-fledged part of the interior, and in the case of an external staircase to the attic, it is an important architectural element. When choosing the design and material of the stairs, you need to focus on the interior of the house.

Wooden stairs are suitable for many styles and easily fit into the interior. In addition, wood is easier to work with than other materials. Therefore, if you plan self-production stairs, it is better to choose wood.

Important! Wood needs protective treatment that increases the material's resistance to moisture and fire.

The staircase can be erected from both coniferous and deciduous wood. Ideal coniferous options are cedar and larch. The wood looks good, is easy to process and practically does not rot.

Spruce is slightly inferior in its characteristics. Its main disadvantage is the presence large quantity knots. It is easy to work with pine; an additional advantage of wood is its affordable cost.

Of the hardwoods, oak is best suited for creating stairs. In second place operational characteristics- beech, and on the third - ash.

Metal attic stairs emphasize the individuality of the home design. The design is very durable and reliable. The metal can be given any color or chrome plated - the decision depends on the style of the attic and the entire room.

It is quite difficult to build a metal staircase yourself - you will need a welding machine and experience working with it.

Stone or concrete stairs- heavyweights that visually burden the interior of the house. It is better to build such a rise outside the house. Subsequently, the stairs can be plastered and painted in a suitable shade.

How to make a staircase to the attic: step-by-step installation of a marching structure

Choosing a place to install the stairs

To install the stairs, you need to determine the most optimal place:

  1. It is optimal if the entrance to the attic is located in separate room type of vestibule. This will allow you to arrange a staircase with convenient dimensions and will provide additional thermal insulation premises. If necessary, the vestibule can simply be closed and cold air from the attic will not reach the lower floor. This is convenient if the attic is used as living room only in summer.
  2. In the absence of a vestibule, it is better to erect the lifting structure near the far wall of the room. This arrangement saves usable space, and the steps will not interfere with walking around the room.
  3. When planning the installation of folding steps, it is better to provide in the ceiling not just a passage, but a closing hatch - this will help minimize heat loss in the room.

Calculation of stairs and drawing up drawings

There are certain standards that determine the permissible values ​​of the main parameters of the stairs. Manufacturing structures in compliance with the established dimensions guarantees safety and ease of movement along the stairs. The following standards must be adhered to:

  • the width of the stairs should not be less than 80-100 cm;
  • comfortable step width - 20-32 cm (optimally - 30 cm);
  • narrow part winder stage- not less than 10 cm;
  • riser height - 15-19 cm;
  • the slope of the flight of stairs is 20-40°.

An approximate procedure for calculating the dimensions of the stairs:

  1. Measure the floor height - the difference between the finished floor level of the lower floor and the attic. Let's say the value is 250 cm.
  2. Determine the height and number of steps. To do this, the lifting height should be divided by the riser height (18 cm), that is: 250/18 = 13.88 pieces. Since fractional numbers are not suitable, 13.88 must be rounded to 14 pieces. Accordingly, the actual height of the steps will not be 18 cm, but 17.85 cm (250/14).
  3. Calculate the length of the march. If we take the width of the steps as 27 cm, then the total length of the march will be 405 cm (14*27).
  4. Based on the calculations performed, make a drawing and apply markings.
  5. Then measure the distance between the edges of the attic floor. Mark the lines on the drawing.
  6. Measure the distance from the edge of the attic floor to the steps of the stairs. According to GOST, this value must be at least 185 cm for unhindered movement along the stairs. If this size is smaller, then the length of the march must be reduced by increasing the height of the steps and reducing their number.
  7. The calculation of stringers is carried out according to the formula: step height + step length * 4.76. That is: 4.05+2.5*4.76 = 4.75 m.
  8. The width of the stringers should be doubled larger size riser, that is: 17.85*2=35.7 cm.

The procedure for assembling the stairs

Prepare boards for stringers - you need to buy them with a small supply. For example, if the required length of the stringer is 4.75 m, you need to take a board 5 m long. Mark the slots on the stringers using a carpenter's angle. Draw out the places for cutting the steps and number them.

Since the calculations were carried out without taking into account the thickness of the boards, this value must be taken into account when cutting the lower part of the stringer.

Important! After cutting out the stringers, they must be compared with each other - they must coincide clearly, otherwise it will not be possible to assemble a strong staircase.

The next stage is cutting out the platform beam. The width of the beam is calculated as follows: width of the staircase (90 cm) + double thickness of the stringer + 14 cm (depending on the parameters of the staircase). So, according to the example given, the platform beam is equal to: 90+2*5+14=114 cm. Two such beams will be needed.

Make cuts in the prepared beams, moving 7 cm from the edge. The width of the cuts should correspond to the thickness of the stringer. Then the beams are fixed to the ceiling using anchors.

Install stringers into the grooves and secure them to the beams with pins or dowels. The stringer, which is joined near the wall, is secured to it with anchors. Then the steps and risers are installed. Fixation of structural elements is carried out in one of the following ways: cutting, screws or dowels.

The final stage is the installation of balusters and the installation of handrails.

Installation of a spiral staircase in the attic

The design of a spiral staircase has a number of features that must be taken into account during design and installation:

  • V spiral staircases Usually there are no risers;
  • when people move, the middle of the steps is exposed to the main load, so the width of this part should be at least 20 cm;
  • the narrowest part of the step should not be less than 10 cm;
  • the optimal diameter of the screw structure is 220 cm;
  • the branches of the steps should be located at a distance of about 2 meters from each other;
  • the steps are arranged with a slight overlap - this provides additional structural strength; the edges of adjacent steps are connected by brackets.

Assembly sequence of a spiral staircase:

  1. Installation of the support stand. TO wooden floor the beam is fixed with special fasteners, and it is concreted to the cement beam with braces.
  2. Cut holes in the treads and “put” them on the support post.
  3. Separate the steps between each other with bushings of the required height. Place safety washers between the steps and bushings.
  4. Distribute the steps according to the plan and secure with brackets.
  5. Install railings and handrails.

Stairs to the attic in a private house: photo

Staircase to the attic: the dimensions of the structure allow for efficient use of space. Under the stairs there is a built-in kitchenette and a library.

Compact stairs to the attic, installed in the corner - best option for small spaces.

Metal external staircase in the attic: photo

If you have an attic in your house, then the staircase to it must be provided for in the layout. It is quite possible to make such a design with your own hands, but for this you need to acquire some knowledge.

This article will tell you how to make a staircase to the attic yourself, how to correctly calculate it and correctly position it in the house. You will also get acquainted with photos of various staircase systems and a useful video on their installation.

Stairs to the attic - which type to choose

So, you set out to make a high-quality and reliable staircase to the attic with your own hands. And the first question that will confront you is what type of staircase structure is best to choose.


There are only three main types of stepped systems for the attic:

  • Marching.
  • Screw.
  • Foldable.

And, since we're talking about about planning and installing a staircase with your own hands, it is better to opt for the simplest marching structure made of natural wood (for these purposes it is better to use pine tree species). It is its calculation, choice of location and production that will be discussed further.


Layout of the stairs to the attic

Before you begin calculating the staircase structure, you should decide on its layout, that is, the location of the system in the living room.

Most likely, when building a house and attic, the designer has already determined the place where the structure will be located, and then all you have to do is calculate and build it yourself.


When designing a house, the place where the staircase leading to the attic will be located must be selected and taken into account.

Calculation of the staircase system

The calculation of the stairs to the attic is carried out according to the following plan:

  • Determination of the dimensions of the structure.
  • Carrying out the necessary calculations.
  • Construction of the drawing.

Sizing

First, you need to determine the height of the structure, for which the distance from floor to ceiling (attic floor) is measured with a tape measure. This value is recorded.

Other required dimensions can be taken from generally accepted GOSTs:

  • step height – no more than 20 cm;
  • small clearance width - about 80 cm;
  • step width – no more than 40 cm;
  • riser height – about 20 cm;
  • fence height – 90 cm;
  • The angle of inclination of the stairs is no more than 45 degrees.

All measurements must be recorded in order to be used in the future for the production of staircase structures

Making calculations

At this design stage, two missing values ​​should be determined - the length of the stairs and the number of steps in the structure.

Since we took the slope of the stairs to be 45 degrees, then its length should be several more height. For example, the distance from the floor in the attic is 285 cm, which means the length of the system will be about 320 cm.


Based on the length, you can determine the number of steps. To do this, divide the length of the stairs (320 cm) by the height of the steps (20 cm):

320: 20 = 16 steps.

Construction of a drawing

We draw a sketch of the staircase structure based on the measurements and calculations made (see photo below).


Main components of the design

A practical and easily accessible option for production on your own is a single-flight wooden staircase on stringers. This design consists of the following main elements:

  • stringers;
  • tread;
  • risers;
  • fencing (balusters and railings).

This figure schematically demonstrates the main structural elements of the attic

Stringers

The stringer is a side deck that serves as a load-bearing support for the steps. In order to make a stringer, glued laminated timber is used. coniferous wood thickness of at least 65 mm. The outer part of the stringer is milled and processed with a grinding machine.


Tread

Tread is the surface of a step that is stepped on when walking. For its manufacture, boards with a width of 35 to 50 mm are used.


Riser

Riser - a vertical plank between steps 1–2 cm thick.


Fencing

A guardrail is a supporting structural element designed for comfortable and safe movement along the stairs.


Quick Installation Guide

Now let's talk about how to make a high-quality installation of stairs to the attic yourself.


The manufacturing of the structure occurs in stages:

  • First, using circular saw stringers are made.
  • Next, the stringers are installed in the place where the stairs will be located. They are attached to the floor and ceiling using anchor bolts.
  • Then risers and treads are attached to the stringers using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws.
  • Next, a fence made of balusters and railings is installed.
  • The production of the stairs to the attic is completed by painting the system or coating it with a special varnish for wood.

Video: making a staircase to the attic with your own hands

From this video you will learn how to do it yourself staircase structure screw type to the attic.

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Below are just some photos of the elegant, stylish and comfortable staircase systems that are available in our range.


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