Attaching a chandelier to a concrete ceiling. Attaching a chandelier to the ceiling using a mounting strip How to attach a heavy chandelier to a concrete ceiling

Anyone can skillfully and correctly hang a chandelier on their own, without being an electrician or calling in specialists. Of course, installing a chandelier under the ceiling is a very serious task, but it does not require high level special training.

There are several different ways decorative ceiling mountings lighting fixture– chandeliers. Determines tactics, first of all, total weight products. It is logical that a heavier chandelier requires solid, thoughtful mounting.

Let's consider the most effective, frequently used techniques.

Methods of mounting a chandelier

Fixing the chandelier using a hook

A metal hook is the most simplified and reliable option. There are two ways to use various types hooks:

1. When the weight of the chandelier is less than 3.5-4.0 kg, you can safely use a threaded hook. The installation technology is simple - having drilled the required hole (in diameter and depth) in the ceiling material, you need to place a plastic dowel in the channel. Then all that remains is to carefully screw in the hook to the maximum possible depth.

Attention! The hook holding the chandelier can only be attached to concrete or a solid wooden base (beams, logs, beams, etc.). It is unacceptable to mount the main element in drywall, plastic panels or decorative overlays!

2. If the lighting device is heavier than 4.0 kg, then the technology will be different. In this case, you need to use special anchor bolts(d>=10.0 mm.sq.) with spacer hook. Having drilled the desired channel, you need to place an anchor in it and tighten it to the limit. Now, the lamp will be securely located under the ceiling.

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To disguise the fastening system, a decorative cup-shaped element (included with the chandelier) is used. This part slides freely along the main rod and can be fixed in its upper part. Therefore, if desired, it is quite easy to adjust the height of the chandelier.

Mounting the chandelier using a bracket or strip

The second fastening method, which involves the use of a strip or bracket, is more complex, but can be done independently.

If the chandelier kit is of high quality, it must include a metal strip (or bracket) intended for hanging. This element contains two screws that need to be secured with appropriate nuts. Now, the created complex is fixed to the ceiling, in which channels are pre-drilled and PVC dowels are installed.

The chandelier is brought to the ceiling and, by inserting bolts into special holes, is fixed under the ceiling.

Advice! If the ceiling is wooden, then the bracket is secured with screws for wood of the required length. And when the ceiling is plasterboard construction, you need to fix the chandelier with metal screws to the supporting profile strip!

Simplified mounting option

When the purchased chandelier is small and light, you can do without auxiliary fixing mechanisms and attach the lighting fixture directly to ceiling surface. At the base of these chandeliers there is a small metal plate with several holes for installation.

The installation technology is extremely simple. The locations of the screws are marked and channels are drilled at these points. They are placed in the holes of PVC dowels and the lamp is secured with at least 2 screws.

The process of placing and fixing a chandelier on the ceiling is full of various nuances, among which the most significant are:

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1. Massive, elongated chandeliers are suitable for placement only on high ceilings, otherwise, in addition to aesthetic disharmony, there will be a danger of electric shock.

2. It is better to equip low ceilings with flat or small lamps that are close to the surface. Otherwise, distinguished guests will be in uncomfortable conditions. Also a large chandelier model in small room will cause constant psychological discomfort due to low overhang.

Method of connecting a chandelier to the network

Installation issues have been addressed and now you can proceed to the most difficult stage - creating electrical system with switches. Usually the chandelier kit is supplied ready-made, but sometimes you have to make your own corrections or completely redo the local wiring.

Let's consider possible situations with switches:

Single-key switches

There are no special unclear moments here. From each lamp comes a pair of wires of the same color or different (this is not critical). One cord from all lampshades must be brought together into a single contact, and the others into a second combined twist. Now we bring one connection to the phase wire, and the second to the neutral wire, which together come from the switch.

Two-gang switch

In fact, such a relay is a combination of two single-key devices, which has three outputs (a common one and two separate ones).

First, let's deal with the wires, of which we will have 4: two two-wire wires from the lampshades, a three-wire wire from the switch and a double wire from the electrical panel.

The connection principle is as follows:

— one conductor from each lamp and a neutral wire from the electrical panel are combined into one twist;

— the phase conductor from the shield is connected to the common contact of the two-key switch;

— the remaining wire from each lamp is connected to the output of one of the keys;

No matter how beautiful the ceiling in your apartment looks, the right way gives it a finished look installed chandelier. When buying a new lamp, many people think about how to hang it on concrete ceiling. Solid concrete floors make it difficult to install hooks, and for this reason people turn to a professional for help rather than try to do the job themselves. And the designs of lighting devices today have become more complicated. In fact, there is nothing complicated about attaching a chandelier to a concrete ceiling. Consistency is important simple actions and do not forget about safety precautions. You can verify this by reading our article.

LET'S DEAL WITH THE WIRES FIRST

In houses of old construction, the wiring is old, without modern color markings. In modern requirements of PUE (Electrical Installation Rules), individual cable cores have different colors, by which their purpose can be immediately determined. Color coding Modern chandeliers also have standard wires. In the factory version, they are assembled on a block, and their connection is specified in the accompanying passport.

The phase wire is usually designated black, white or brown - here manufacturers do not have a uniform standard. Neutral (zero) has blue or Blue colour. It is customary to highlight the grounding conductor everywhere yellow braids with green stripe.

Before starting work on installing the chandelier, you need to understand the purpose of all the wires in the ceiling wiring and inside the lamp. If everything is new, then the connection will occur without problems - we simply connect the wires with the same markings on the block.

IF THERE IS NO MARKING

If we can’t figure out the purpose of the wires by color, we’ll do it with the help of instruments. This is easy to do, the main thing is to comply with electrical safety standards. To do this, we need a phase indicator - a device that shows the presence of phase voltage at the ends of the wire. In a simplified version, it looks like a regular screwdriver, but consists of a plastic body, a conductive rod and a signal LED. At the end of the probe (as the device is popularly called) there is a metal terminal. It’s easy to determine the presence of voltage: we take the probe with our thumb and middle finger, like a fountain pen, and press the end terminal with our index finger. We touch the bare wires with a metal tip - the indicator on the phase wire will light up. It is recommended to carry out this test with one hand, without touching the wires with the other, otherwise you may accidentally get “the most vivid impressions of your life.”

WE CONTINUE TO WORK AS A SAMPLE

To carry out work, the room must be completely de-energized. Carefully remove the old lamp and check that there is no voltage on all wires one by one. We separate all the wiring strands to the sides so that they do not touch. We turn on the current supply and the chandelier switch again. We use the indicator to identify the phase wire and mark the neutral conductor in a way that we understand. It may happen that you find three wires coming out of the ceiling. This means that the chandelier was connected using a two-stage circuit. In this case, you need to turn on both keys and find one neutral and two phase wires, accurately marking them. After disconnecting one key, make sure that the phase has disappeared on one wire. Then unplug the second key and make sure there is no voltage on the second wire either. In this case, you can connect the chandelier using the existing two-stage wiring diagram.

WE MAKE A CHANDELIER CALL

Testing of chandelier wires is done in doubtful cases, and for this it is better to use a regular multimeter. With a metal chandelier body, one of the three wires can be grounding. To find it, we place one of the probes on the metal of the case, and with the second we touch the exposed part of the wires. The sound of the multimeter will indicate the ground wire. The neutral wire (neutral) can be easily determined by the test sound if one probe is pressed to the side contact of any chandelier socket, and with the other we touch the unidentified wires in turn. Thus, the remaining wires will be phase wires.

If you have a multi-arm chandelier with a two-stage connection scheme, then one or more sockets can be connected to each phase wire. To accurately determine their relationship with the switch key, connect the multimeter probe to one of the phase wires and sequentially touch the central contacts inside the sockets. Based on the sound signal, we determine the actual connection.

If the purchased lamp has several switching stages, and you have only one phase wire in the wiring, then you will have to connect all the sockets to it. To do this, we will connect all the phase wires of the chandelier together on one block.

EXPERT ADVICE

Aluminum wires are often found in older houses. But wires made of copper and aluminum cannot be connected to each other by twisting. They quickly form a corrosive layer, and the contact density is disrupted. This will lead to heating and melting of the insulation - to short circuit. Copper and aluminum wires are connected only using a special WAGO terminal with insulating paste.

WE WILL PREPARE EVERYTHING NECESSARY FOR INSTALLATION

Prepare a stable stepladder, indicator and multimeter in advance. All electrical installation tools: screwdrivers, pliers, knife and hammer must have insulated handles. To drill holes in a concrete ceiling, you will need a hammer drill or impact drill. The fasteners used are expansion anchors, self-tapping screws and dowels. To connect the contacts we will use screw or spring express terminals, electrical tape or PPE type caps.

ATTACHING THE CHANDELIER TO THE HOOK

Weighty chandeliers on a long rod have a special loop for hanging on a hook, which closes after installation decorative cap. If there is no hook on your ceiling, you will have to install it yourself. To do this, it is better to use an expansion anchor that can withstand heavy loads. IN drilled hole the anchor is driven in until it stops, and then the hook is tightened.

When installing a chandelier, it is better to remove all light bulbs and fragile parts. Having hung the case on a fixed hook, we connect the wires to the block. All wires must be carefully laid inside the decorative bowl and secured with a minimum gap near the ceiling. The bowl is usually secured to the stem with a gasket or a small screw. After this, we screw in the light bulbs, put on the shades, apply mains voltage and use the switch to check the functionality of the chandelier.

INSTALLING THE CHANDELIER ON THE MOUNTING BAR

Most ceiling-mounted fixtures are mounted on a mounting strip or decorative bracket. The installation of such a chandelier consists of two stages: installing the strip on the ceiling and then attaching the chandelier itself to it. If there is an old hook in this place, it needs to be unscrewed or cut off. We first apply the plank to the ceiling to indicate the mounting coordinates. We drill the ceiling for dowels to the required depth. You need to pay attention to the density of the dowels in the holes and, if necessary, seal them with a cement-adhesive mixture. Having installed the bar using self-tapping screws, then we fasten the lamp to the bar using standard screws. We check the operation of the chandelier with a switch and admire the result of our work. After all, it’s not the gods who burn the pots! And there is nothing difficult in this work for your skillful hands.

The chandelier lighting fixture is also decorative element with a lot of weight, and complex design. Fastening the lighting fixture requires special attention, since the safety of the occupants of the premises depends on the strength of the installation. Installation of the lamp can be done in several ways, but in any case it is important to follow safety precautions for mounting the device and check the grounding of the electrical wiring.

Tools for work

• screwdrivers;
• drill;
• fasteners;
• pliers;
• ladder;
• connection terminals;
• tool for checking current in electrical wires.

Types of chandelier fastenings to concrete ceilings

The types of fastenings of chandeliers to a concrete ceiling are different. The chandelier is installed using the following fasteners:

• The hook is a reliable and popular type of fastening. It is not difficult to install and has the ability to replace the lighting fixture with another.
• Anchors are used when necessary to attach to heavy, large chandeliers.
• When attaching a chandelier with a mounting strip, a thin strip is installed, screwed close to the ceiling. This type of installation is a complex process, but it will allow the chandelier to fit tightly and firmly to the ceiling and hide the wiring.

On the hook

Before attaching a lighting fixture to a concrete ceiling with a built-in hook, the first step is to check the strength of its installation. To do this, select a weight the size of the selected chandelier, secure it, and then pull it with force. A poorly installed fastener will begin to wobble or fall out completely; in this case, the hook will need to be replaced.

To install the hook, you need to make a hole in the ceiling using a hammer drill and install a collet, followed by mounting the fastening element into it. A pin is placed in the collet and a hook is hung; it is also possible to screw the hook directly into the collet. Before screwing the hook into the thread, you need to lubricate the hole with a thin layer of thick lubricant and screw two copper wires.

Next, one hundred grams of gypsum solution is prepared, which in consistency will resemble thick sour cream. After which the hole is filled with a stick, it is important to remember that the gypsum mixture hardens quickly, so the filling of the solution into the thread should be carried out accordingly.

The hook is immediately placed into the solution before it has time to harden and the excess mixture is removed. Wait until the solution cools to room temperature; this will happen after 2 hours or more. After the final setting of the gypsum mixture, they begin to fasten the lighting fixture.

Anchor

Anchors are used to work with durable concrete ceilings that can withstand heavy lighting fixtures. A large chandelier weighing more than five kilograms is hung on an anchor hook, having first drilled a hole of the required diameter. The fastening element has a spacer, which after installation will move apart and fix the lighting fixture. Such fastener has an untidy appearance and thereby spoils the design of the premises. To hide protruding and protruding connecting elements

, installation of chandeliers is carried out using decorative bowls, which will hide the mounting fixtures. The anchor fasteners are made of metal, which allows them to withstand heavy lighting elements. Mounting a lighting fixture using mounting plate carried out on a plasterboard ceiling, which is not designed for heavy loads. In order not to disturb the weak load-bearing structure They think about the future type of fasteners even at the stage of installing the frame. Depending on the size of the fastening elements of the lighting device, the form of installation of the profiles is selected, which can be laid parallel or in the form of a square or rectangle.

Before you begin installing the fasteners, mark the places where the holes will be located in accordance with the locations of the screws in the plank. Dowels are installed in the recesses and the bar is screwed. If there is a previously installed hook in the concrete ceiling, you should not remove it, as it will come in handy if you need to change the lighting fixture. The lamp is fixed to the bar with screws. Light weight chandeliers are fastened with long self-tapping screws. For heavy-duty devices, fasteners are installed on a ceiling made of concrete or wood.

Mounting the lamp has the following sequence:

It is worth remembering that before installing the lamp, the device is analyzed, i.e. the weight, size and type of fasteners are determined. After the fasteners are installed, proceed to connecting the chandelier to the electrical network.

Properly selected and zoned lighting ensures comfort in the room and creates normal conditions for work and rest. There are usually no problems with placing floor or wall lamps, but how to fix a chandelier on a concrete ceiling? There are several methods used for this, each with its own advantages. There are nuances and difficulties with connecting the chandelier to the electrical network.

The most widely used methods for attaching a chandelier to concrete floors:

• anchor hook;
• crimp hanger;
• mounting plate.

IN apartment buildings ceilings installed with a hook already provided. It is attached to the reinforcement set of the slab and is able to withstand heavy loads. The cable is located next to it hidden wiring connected to the wall switch.

If the owner wants to install the chandelier in another place, he will have to take care of the wiring himself - hidden or in cable channels.

Under the anchor hook with a hammer drill or impact drill a hole is drilled and a plastic or metal dowel is inserted into it. When screwing the base of the hook with a thread cut into it into the dowel, it wedges the dowel in the hole, ensuring reliable fastening. A properly secured anchor can support up to 150 kg.

When drilling a hole, you can get into the internal cavity left to reduce the weight of the slab. In this case, the anchor will rest against the concrete only part of its length, and the fastening will become unreliable. You should move it a little to the side and drill a new hole, getting into the solid slab. The old one will have to be puttied and painted over.

Crimp hanger

Suitable for installation in the location of the internal voids of the slab or in an old hole in which the hook is broken, rusted or does not fit in size.

Instead of a dowel, this design uses a special nut with levers that can stand parallel to the threaded support rod, or can diverge to the sides and lock with each other perpendicular to it. When installed, the arms fold and pass into the hole. Behind it they open, forming a reliable stop in the surface of the slab cavity. The nut is screwed on the bottom side of the hook. This eliminates the possibility of horizontal displacement of the levers and the entire structure. Such a mount can withstand slightly less weight than a powerful dowel driven to its entire length in monolithic concrete. But its carrying capacity is sufficient for an average lamp.

The plank is attached to the ceiling using two (or four) regular self-tapping screws and dowels. The weight of the luminaire is distributed between them, so relatively small screws can be used. There is a fastening stamped on the bar. The lamp is installed on it. It is advisable to use this method of fastening if the strip is supplied with the chandelier.

The nuances of working with wires

In modern apartment buildings and private construction they use copper cables type VVG or NYM. They use color coding for wires:

• black or brown for “phase” (white is sometimes found);
• blue for "zero";
• yellow-striped for "earth".

The wires on the terminal blocks of the lamps are also marked. This is very convenient, makes it easier to install wiring and connect electrical appliances to it. It is enough to connect wires of the same color together.

In older houses there are no color markings and aluminum cables are still found.

In this case, you will have to tinker with determining the purpose of the wire and connecting them.

Checking phasing with an indicator screwdriver

If there are no wire markings, you will have to prepare a multimeter and an indicator screwdriver (probe). This is an ordinary small flat-head screwdriver, at the end of the handle there is a metal contact and a neon light (or, in newer models, an LED). The device works as follows: you need to touch index finger end contact, and the tip of a screwdriver - wires.

If it is “phase”, the light bulb (LED) will light up. If it's zero, it won't light up. You need to operate such an indicator with only one hand, so that if you accidentally touch exposed wires you do not get an electric shock.

As soon as the purpose of the wire is determined, it must be immediately marked with a colored piece of colored electrical tape.

There are situations when not two, but three (or more) wires come out next to the hook. This means that groups of lamps can be connected in parts, independently of each other. This solution is usually used in large rooms. Each wire is controlled by a separate button on the wall switch. Among the wires you need to find one common neutral and several phase wires for each group.

After the phasing is completed, the ends should be moved apart and insulated while the lamp is being hung.

Checking the chandelier with a multimeter

The test is carried out using a multimeter - a universal electrical measuring instrument.

If the lamp has a metal body, then for its safe operation you will need a grounding wire. In order to determine the “ground” wire, you should:

• touch the metal case with one multimeter probe;
• with the second, touch the section of the wire without insulation;
• the squeak of the multimeter will indicate “ground”;
• if there is no sound, try the next wire, and so on until ground is found.

The neutral conductor is looked for in a similar way:

• Unscrew the lamp from any socket;
• touch the side contact inside the cartridge with one probe;
• the second is to sort through the wires until the multimeter beeps; this will be neutral;
• all the remaining ones will be phase ones.

Multi-arm luminaires, used in large rooms, use a grouping of sockets to gradually regulate the illumination in the room.

To determine which wire is connected to which switch key, proceed as follows:

• unscrew the lamps from the sockets;
• touch the phase wire with one probe;
• others, alternately touch the central contacts in the sockets until the multimeter beeps;
• this will be the desired cartridge (group of cartridges)

If the new chandelier has several groups, and only two wires come out of the ceiling, then, unfortunately, all the phase contacts of the lamp will have to be connected together and all lamps will have to be turned on at the same time.

Stages of attaching a chandelier to the ceiling

In order to attach a chandelier to a concrete ceiling, you may need:

• stepladder with fixation of the degree of opening;
• pliers,
• indicator screwdriver;
• mounting knife;
• colored electrical tape;
• electric hammer or drill with an impact mechanism;
• expansion anchor hook;
• self-tapping screws with dowels;
• quick-release terminals (if the luminaire does not have its own terminal block.

If the wires are not marked, they should be phased and marked.

Hook

Massive chandeliers at the end of the rod have a ring for hanging on ceiling hook. If the hook is missing or unusable, a new one will need to be installed.

• the decorative cap is moved down the rod;
• hang the chandelier on a hook;
• marked wires coming out of the ceiling are connected to the terminal block of the chandelier in accordance with the designations;
• the decorative cap is moved up so that it covers the hook, wires and contact blocks;
• the cap is secured with a small screw so that it does not slip down over time;
• they screw in the lamps and return the fragile hanging parts.

Now you can check the quality of installation and connection by applying voltage with a wall switch.

First you need to attach the mounting strip to the ceiling. This is done in the following sequence:

• the old hook will have to be turned out or cut off with a grinder;
• mark the holes by attaching the plank to the ceiling;
• Drill holes using a hammer drill or impact drill;
• the depth of the hole should be slightly greater than the length of the dowel or screw;
• if the edges of the hole have crumbled, it is better to drill a new one, holding the drill more firmly;
• insert the dowels all the way, attach the strip and tighten the screws;
• not a screwdriver, it is necessary to set a torque limit so that the dowels do not turn;
• hang the lamp from the bar using the screws supplied;
• connect the wires to the terminal blocks.

It's time to check the quality of work by flipping the switch key.

Safety precautions

When fastening ceiling lamp and its connection there are two main dangers:

• electric shock;
• falling from height.

To avoid unpleasant consequences, you need to follow simple rules:

• do not work from random supports: chairs, tables, boxes, etc.
• use a working stepladder of sufficient height and load-carrying capacity; the stepladder must be equipped with a device that limits the opening width of its legs;
• It’s better to work together to minimize movement on the steps of a stepladder;
• use tools with well-insulated handles;
• When working under voltage, do not touch the bare sections of the wire with your hands; in this case, it is better to keep one hand behind your back.
• when drilling holes, installing embedded parts and connecting wires, the voltage MUST be turned off;
• It is not allowed to connect aluminum and copper wires by twisting; to do this, you must use contact blocks with a separate clamp for each wire.
• Twisting is not recommended for connecting multi-core flexible terminals of a luminaire with single-core drives internal wiring, here it is also better to use contact blocks, screw or quick-clamping.

If you have to drill new holes in it to attach a chandelier to a concrete ceiling, it is very important not to get into the wiring hidden in the ceiling.

If it is possible to use a locator that emits a sound signal when crossing a hidden wiring line, then it is not difficult to determine the position of the wires. If there is no such device, you will have to use engineering ingenuity. Wires in floors are laid in the internal cavities of the slabs. As a rule, they are directed from the window into the house. It is enough to draw an imaginary line along the ceiling from the point where the wires exit to interior wall and try not to cross it when marking the holes.

Attaching a chandelier to a concrete ceiling only seems like a complicated process. If you study all its nuances and follow the recommendations given, then even a novice home craftsman can handle the suspension and connection.

(Last Updated On: 01/17/2018)

Lighting

20.03.2016

How to hang a chandelier on concrete ceilings

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Most apartments in multi-storey buildings cannot boast of high ceilings. For use here tension or suspended structures you should approach it very carefully, since they eat up such necessary centimeters. Very often the surface of the floor slabs is leveled and covered with whitewash or painted. When thinking about lighting issues in such rooms, you need to think about how to hang a lamp on a concrete ceiling and secure it correctly.

• 1 Types of existing fastenings
• 2 List of materials and tools required for work
• 3 Installing the ceiling hook
• 4 Installation of the trim strip
• 5 Sealing the wiring entry
• 6 Electrical safety issues
• 7 Photo gallery (13 photos)

Types of existing fastenings

Nowadays there are a lot of fasteners and various brackets for installation ceiling lighting can be used:

• Anchor hook;
• Clamp suspension;
• Overhead mount.

The simplest and reliable option hang a chandelier - an anchor hook screwed into the ceiling. It allows you to hang large massive chandeliers from concrete floors. Installing the anchor on hollow slab is associated with some difficulties. It may happen that the drilled mounting hole falls into the internal cavity. In this case, the reliability of the fastening will be significantly reduced, since only half of the design length of the body will work against the thrust. The way out of this situation is simple - move a little to the side and drill a new hole, and cover the old one with putty.

The clamping suspension is designed specifically for installation on hollow core slabs. Due to the simplicity and efficiency of the design, it is most often installed in new buildings. And since its reliability is very high, most residents do not even suspect its existence. His load bearing capacity slightly lower than the anchor, but still quite sufficient to hang a chandelier weighing up to 5-7 kg.

Installing an auxiliary overhead strip on the ceiling allows you to mount the lamp when, for some reason, installing an anchor or suspension hook is impossible or undesirable. Another reason to use this installation method is the standard chandelier mounting system. There is no need to reinvent the wheel when all the necessary parts are supplied with the lamp and the only thing left is to assemble them.

List of materials and tools required for work

In the vast majority of cases, everything that might be needed to hang a lamp is already in the arsenal of a home craftsman:

• A drill inserted into a hammer drill chuck is practically the only option for hassle-free work with concrete;
• A set of wrenches will help with tightening the anchor hook or nuts on threaded rods with the overhead fastening method;
• Stripping the wire insulation is done using a sharp knife;
• Terminal connectors are used for switching contacts;
• A screwdriver is necessary for the screw method of fixing wires;
• To seal the electrical wiring entry points, you may need fire-resistant foam or mineral wool, followed by a layer of putty flush with the ceiling surface.

Ceiling Hook Installation

The process of installing anchors is quite simple and does not require extensive explanation. A hole of the required depth and diameter is drilled at a selected point on the ceiling. A metal anchor is inserted into it and screwed first by hand, and then using wrench a hook on which you can then hang the lamp.

To protect the hammer drill from dust, sand and small concrete chips, you can put a disposable cup made of thick paper on the drill. Installation of a clamping suspension, on the one hand, is simpler, since there is no need to drill the ceiling, but on the other hand, it is somewhat more complicated and requires some explanation. Due to the specifics of its design, this mount can only be used on hollow concrete floors. A spacer rod 10-15 cm long and up to 3-5 mm in diameter is inserted into the inlet hole in the slab and pushed into the internal cavity.

The next step to complete is installing the hanging strip. This is a narrow metal plate, at one end of which there is a series of holes, at the other end there is a small hook on which you can hang a chandelier. The plank is taken in one hand and placed inside the concrete slab. With the other hand, the spacer rod is threaded through one of the holes. The closer it is located to the edge of the plate, the greater the distance from the ceiling to the hanging hook. This way you can adjust the suspension protrusion by 3-5 cm.

Next, the mounting ends of the chandelier are connected to the electrical wiring. The entire assembly process is completed by installing a plastic decorative lining close to the ceiling. Due to the presence of a slot, it fits onto the hanging bar, fixing its position and completely covering the hole in the concrete slab.

Installation of the trim strip

Installing any auxiliary support surface is most universal method. An overhead strip for hanging is usually supplied with the chandelier, but if necessary, you can make it yourself or select a suitable bracket from the assortment of the nearest hardware store. The point of this installation method is to disperse the attachment points to the ceiling.

As standard, the overlay strip can be made as a cross or a single narrow metal plate. Fastening to the ceiling surface is carried out using four or two dowel nails. The chandelier is directly fixed using decorative union nuts that are screwed onto threaded rods welded to the plate.

If for some reason the standard mount is not suitable for installation, you can use perforated mounting brackets of suitable size or make your own one that is suitable in size metal plate and make all the necessary holes on it. Instead of welding threaded rods, you can successfully use a screw-nut connection. Next, the installation sequence of the lamp completely coincides with the factory version.

Sealing the wiring entry

Standard input electric wire to connect lighting, it is carried out in the middle of the room through a hole in the ceiling with a diameter of 5-7 cm. In a concrete slab inside the cavities during the construction of a house, the cable is routed to the switch and connected to the general network. These channels are most often not sealed and sounds and odors from neighboring rooms easily spread through them. Replacing a chandelier is a very good reason to eliminate this drawback.

The easiest option is to foam all the free space inside the fireproof polyurethane foam. However, the apparent ease of the solution can later bring a number of problems if you need to hang another lamp. To get to the connection terminals, you will have to work very well with a knife, cutting out the frozen polyurethane foam in small pieces. Using mineral wool all free space is densely filled with small pieces of this non-combustible insulation. The material is fastened inside the slab due to the high elasticity of the fibers. The compressed cotton wool, straightening inside the hole, completely seals it.

To completely isolate the room from extraneous odors and sounds, the surface is puttied. Gray reinforced tape is glued over the cotton wool with a slight extension to the ceiling (up to 5 cm). Then serpyanka masking tape is attached to it, which will ensure the necessary adhesion of the solution to the surface. The final stage a thin layer of finishing putty is applied and leveled.

Electrical safety issues

As in all matters relating to the connection of household electrical appliances, the installation of a chandelier on a concrete ceiling must be carried out taking into account the requirements of current regulatory documentation. Before drilling mounting holes, it is advisable to check the wiring location. For these purposes, you can use a universal tester or locator. If the probe gets into electric field the device will beep. Of course, there will not be a 100% guarantee, but the likelihood of damaging the supply wire with a drill will be reduced many times over.

During the installation process, a situation often arises when it is necessary to connect the copper wires of the lamp with the old one. aluminum wiring. In this case, switching issues should be approached with special attention, since poorly executed contact of these two metals is a source of increased danger and can cause a fire.

It is absolutely not permissible to connect copper and aluminum wires by twisting. For the most reliable switching, it is necessary to use terminal clamps (preferably those that use screw fastening). Single-core conductors are stripped of insulation, inserted into connectors and secured. For stranded copper wire, it is necessary to perform an additional operation of tinning the mounting end to fasten the individual wires into a single monolith and ensure reliable electrical contact between them.

As you can see, to hang a chandelier on a concrete ceiling, there is no need to use complex devices and tools. If necessary, instead of standard factory fasteners, you can make your own or select their analogues. The most important thing, as in any work, is accuracy, lack of haste and compliance with safety regulations.

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