Do-it-yourself frame garage: budget construction. How to build a wooden garage with your own hands How to build a wooden garage with your own hands

For long-term storage of the vehicle and its regular maintenance, it is necessary garage room, which not only creates a comfortable environment during various works, but also protects the car from various weather influences. In this article, we will tell you step by step how to build a wooden garage on your own site with your own hands.

Advantages of a wooden garage

Since wood is one of the cheapest building materials, the popularity of garage buildings made from this material is fully justified.

Wood has a number of significant advantages, such as:

• Ecological cleanliness of the building.
• High speed and ease of assembly.
• Long material life with proper care and preparation.
• Small specific gravity of the building.
• The tree allows you to create designs of any complexity.

For your information. It is important to remember that the price of wood in different regions is significantly different, and in some its cost may be higher than brick. However, even at a high cost, you get the unique natural properties of the material, such as weather resistance and the ability of the material to breathe. This allows you to get rid of the problem of condensate, which is typical for stone or concrete buildings.

It is also necessary to remember that the instructions for the use of treated wood in construction provide for additional processing of the material with special impregnations that give the tree special physical properties.

Impregnations protect the wood from fungal attack, rotting, make the material refractory, protect it from exposure sun rays and insects. The main advantage of antiseptic impregnations is protection against the damaging effects of dampness, which significantly increases the service life of the building.

Work procedure

Before starting construction, it is necessary to draw up a detailed design of a wooden garage (see), indicating all dimensions and construction details. Based on the project, we calculate required amount consumables and approximate cost the buildings.

• Site marking and foundation preparation.
• Construction of the frame, walls and installation of gates.
• Roof arrangement.
• Floor laying and garage insulation.

After all the tools for working with wood have been prepared and the necessary consumables have been purchased, you can proceed directly to the construction.

Building a foundation

Many projects of wooden garages provide for the presence of a strip or pillar foundation, however, these types of foundations significantly increase the time of work and require additional costs for creating the floor. It will be much faster and more practical, which will simultaneously act as a finished floor for the car.

The process of creating such a foundation is quite simple.

• We clean the area from foreign debris and mark it with metal rods and a string stretched between them.
• Then, along the contour, we make a selection of soil to a depth of 30-40 cm, level the surface horizontally using a water level and carefully tamp the soil.
• Next, we create a pillow under the foundation slab. We lay a layer of river sand with a thickness of 6-8 cm and ram it, after which we lay a layer of gravel with the same thickness and ram it too.
• We install the formwork along the perimeter of wooden panels in such a way that the upper edge of the formwork is 15-20 cm above ground level along the perimeter.
• Further, a reinforcing mesh is created from metal rods with a cell width of 15-20 cm and is laid at a distance of 6-8 cm above the level of gravel. Bricks can be used to raise reinforcement. The reinforcing mesh should be approximately centered on the concrete slab after the concrete has been poured.
• We pour concrete to the upper edge of the formwork and level it over the entire area, as shown in the photo below.

Important. Projects of wooden garages with a monolithic foundation are created in such a way that the dimensions of the foundation slab are 15-20 centimeters larger than the outer dimensions of the main building. After the foundation has hardened and gained the desired strength, you can begin to create a frame and walls.

Construction of the frame and walls

They start by laying the bottom trim of the bars around the perimeter of the room. This harness is the basis for the entire frame. As a strapping and the main load-bearing elements of the frame, bars of 10x10 cm can be used, which are treated with special impregnation before use.

Impregnation is an antiseptic and protects the wood from moisture. It is best to treat the bottom trim with bituminous mastic, which will protect the tree and significantly increase its service life.

Before laying the lower trim, a layer of roofing material is laid between the timber and concrete, as shown in the image above. After laying the bottom trim, it is securely fixed to the concrete base using steel corners and dowels.

Then, corner vertical posts from the same beam are mounted on the lower harness. The racks are fixed with a metal corner, and for greater stability, corner slopes are mounted, as shown in the image below.

After the erection of the vertical corner posts, the upper trim is mounted according to the same principle and is securely fixed with metal corners.

For your information. Before you build a wooden garage, you need to choose a material for the exterior cladding of the room. Usually OSB boards are used for this. In this case, it is desirable to install angular slopes on the inside of the frame or on the end of the bars, as in the image above.

After the frame base is ready, it is necessary to install additional vertical stiffeners around the perimeter. For this, a 5x10 cm timber is used and is installed between the upper and lower trim. You can attach the stiffeners in one of three ways, as shown in the photo below.

Important. Before building a wooden garage, it is necessary at the design stage to calculate the step between the stiffening ribs so that the joint of the OSB boards, when sheathing, falls on one of the ribs for its reliable fastening.

If desired, you can install additional transverse stiffeners for more reliable fastening of the OSB. At the final stage, the frame is sheathed with OSB boards on the outside and garage doors are installed.

If you are building a wooden garage with your own hands and planning, then they are mounted after the roof is installed, since the guide rails will be attached to the upper frame.

Roof installation

After installing the frame and its sheathing, you can safely proceed to the construction of the roof. Starting the construction of a wooden garage with your own hands, you need to choose the type of floor at the stage of creating a project.

For a wooden structure, a corner-type roof is ideal, which is constructed from pre-prepared trusses. The figure below shows several options for corner trusses that have different design depending on the size of the garage and the weight of the roofing material.

If a gable type of roof was chosen for the garage, then the trusses for it are made separately and installed on the upper trim every 1.5 -2 meters. The trusses are securely fastened to the upper harness with the help of corners, then they are fastened together by two longitudinal beams from the inside of the truss.

Then, a mounting film for waterproofing is laid over the truss and a longitudinal crate is installed, as shown in the photo below.

For your information. Waterproofing can be laid even after installing the longitudinal lathing, but if the longitudinal boards are laid on top of the insulation, then it will be more convenient to fix the corrugated board or slate while standing on the longitudinal boards. Roofing material can be used as an insulating material.

If you build a garage with your own hands from wood, then for this you need to make one of the walls a little higher than the other, in order to ensure a slope level of at least 15 degrees.

In this case, the transverse logs are laid every 50-80 cm, then the waterproofing material is mounted and the longitudinal crate is laid for fastening the corrugated board. Below are several options for a pitched roof.

For your information. The drawings depicting the roof device show lightweight and reinforced truss options. If you plan to install a lifting winch in the garage, then it is recommended to make not only a reinforced truss, but also a reinforced wooden frame of the garage. To strengthen the frame, it is necessary to install additional vertical stiffeners between the upper and lower trim.

Arrangement of the floor and insulation of the garage

To create the most comfortable indoor environment, wooden garages can be insulated from the inside with foam or mineral wool. This will keep you warm during frosts and keep cool in the hot season.

When using mineral wool or foam plastic, the insulation is placed in the space between the vertical stiffeners, as shown in the photo below, then sheathed with OSB boards or decorative clapboard.

If you decide to ennoble the floor in the garage with your own hands, then this must be done before warming. If ground water are far from the surface, then the probability of their absorption into the concrete screed is minimal, which means that there will be no moisture on the floor surface. In this case, it is possible to lay a tile or roll-type rubber coating on the concrete surface, having previously cleaned and primed the base.

If groundwater is close, then the base will absorb moisture and appear indoors in the form of condensate. In order to avoid this, it is recommended to treat the screed with a deep penetration polymer primer and pour the self-leveling floor on polymer base. These floors are highly durable and waterproof.

It is important to remember that in order to ensure long term room service, it is necessary to impregnate the wooden garage with antiseptic additives that protect the wood from moisture and prevent decay.

On this, the creation of a wooden garage can be considered completed, and in order to consolidate theoretical knowledge, we suggest watching a thematic video clip.

In some areas, the garage appears before the house. You can spend the night in a tent yourself, and put the car under the roof. Therefore, the question of how to build a garage with your own hands is not idle. We start by choosing a location.

Location selection

Choosing a place for a garage is not an easy task. I really want it to be convenient to use, but at the same time so that the building does not spoil the appearance of the site. Immediately you need to decide whether it will be freestanding or attached to a house or other building on the site.

• Standing separately. This option is chosen if the house has already been built and / or the shape of the site is such that the access roads take up too much space. In this case, it makes sense to move the building closer to the entrance gate, or make the garage door open directly onto the street.
• Being part of the building. It can be a house or a hozblok, and the garage itself can be built along with the building, or attached later. Good if the house is built close to the border of the site. It is attractive because there is no need to think about how to heat it and pull additional communications.

With independent construction, the garage is most often placed separately, since an extension to an existing house requires serious measures to strengthen the foundation, and this is definitely not cheap. Cheaper to build separately. Only when choosing a place, it must be borne in mind that the distance to the neighbor's site must be at least 1 m, and the entrance at a distance of at least 10 meters from the neighbor's windows. The distance to the nearest residential building is also normalized. It should be more than 9 meters if the house is made of non-combustible material and 15 meters if the house is fire hazardous.

The gate opens directly onto the street - one of the good options

Dimensions and designs

First you need to decide for what purpose the garage will be used. If this is just a parking lot, the dimensions can be done back to back - add one meter in length and width to the dimensions of the car. That's enough for a parking space. If repair work is also carried out in the garage, you need a lift or a viewing hole, a bunch of equipment and spare parts, then the dimensions should be larger. It is advisable to leave at least a meter on the sides and the same in front. At the back, half a meter is still enough. If the garage is used as a workshop or as a club, the dimensions can be even larger. Restrictions only in the available space and the budget for construction.

With or without hole

The most important thing is to decide whether you will make a hole or not. It depends on how and what kind of foundation you will make. You can make a basement under the garage, and the pit will be the “entrance” or only part of the occupied space. An attractive option, but expensive and requiring large volumes earthworks.

The second option is more economical: only a pit 1.8-2 meters deep and about 1 meter wide. The width is optimal, but the height depends on the height and it is better to choose this parameter individually: the depth should be 15-20 cm more than your height. The length of the pit is about 2 m. This is enough to inspect any passenger car.

The floor in the garage without a pit is even easier to implement. Then it just fills up without any problems.

Foundation for a garage

The foundation for a garage without a pit can be anything, even a tape, even a pile-grillage. Another issue is that you still have to fill the floor. And if so, then it’s easier to immediately make a monolithic reinforced slab and not make the foundation first, and then the floor.

Tape - monolithic and prefabricated

Pile or pile-grillage

An economical foundation, which for some reason is rarely used for garages. Pile in pure form not very suitable for a garage - the floor turns out to be raised above the ground, but if you make a check-in, you can use it. He and a pile-grillage grillage with a low grillage are an excellent option for heaving soils(clay, Loams with a high level of groundwater).

The pile is connected to the grillage - this is a pile-grillage foundation

In the manufacture of a pile-grillage around the perimeter, a shallow pit is dug in the form of a tape (about 40-50 cm deep). In it, with a step of 1.5-2 meters, wells are drilled below the freezing depth of the soil, formwork is inserted into them (a plastic pipe or a roofing material rolled into a roll). Three or four bars of reinforcement are placed inside the formwork with a release of 70 cm and poured with concrete. After that, the formwork is placed on the tape and the reinforcing cage for the tape is knitted, connecting it with the reinforcement of the piles. And it is also filled with concrete.

Monolithic slab

Suitable for any type of soil. Along the perimeter, it is made larger than the dimensions of the garage by at least 30 cm. They remove the soil, digging a foundation pit 40-45 cm deep. Level the bottom, pour a layer of gravel. Its thickness is about 20-25 cm. The gravel is well rammed, using a vibrating plate if possible.

Formwork is placed along the perimeter, reinforcement is placed on the compacted bedding in increments of 15-20 cm (along and across, getting a cage). They usually use 10-14 mm in diameter, two tiers of reinforcement, the distance between which is about 20 cm. All this is poured with concrete grade M 250 - M 300.

What are the walls made of?

Most of the walls in the garage are made of building blocks. It can be (foam block and gas block), or maybe with filler made of slag or expanded clay. They are good because they are warm in themselves and there are no problems with subsequent heating of the garage: a small stove is enough to heat the air to normal temperatures. True, with this choice, exterior decoration is necessary. It is usually made the same as at home or as similar as possible.

The second popular garage wall construction technology is frame. The frame is made of a metal profile pipe or a wooden beam impregnated with flame retardants (flammability-reducing additives). Sheathing can be any - from sheet metal to siding (on metal), lining, imitation timber, plywood (moisture resistant) or OSB. Yes, some materials are combustible and cannot be called reliable, but if you need a cheap garage, for example, for a summer residence, and only as a temporary parking lot, then why not.

Gates

Garage doors can be swing, retractable, lifting. Swing - the simplest and well-known to everyone. If desired, they can be automated (as read).

Heating and insulation of the garage

If you plan to use the garage all year round, you must either immediately make the walls warm (from blocks with low thermal conductivity) or insulate those built using frame technology. Materials for insulation are standard: mineral wool, polystyrene (extruded or ordinary foam). There is another option non-combustible insulation, which in the case of a garage is just a great option - low-density foam concrete. It can be laid between the racks of the frame. Non-flammable, inexpensive, keeps heat well. The only bad thing is that you can’t hang anything on it, but there are frame racks, so you can mount it on them.

There are two types of organization of heating in the garage: constant and periodic. The constant can be separate or part of the heating of the house. If done separately - it's the same house system, only to a lesser extent. It turns out expensive and difficult: a separate boiler, which also needs to be maintained and controlled.

One of the options to organize heating in the garage is to hold on to a branch from the house. But here it is also not easy: a pipeline that requires good insulation, a large amount of land work for its laying, and, preferably, not just into the ground, but into the sewer.

Periodic heating - stoves such as bourgeois stoves and their modifications. You can heat them with firewood, all sorts of combustible rubbish, which is usually enough. But the most attractive idea is to make a stove for testing - there is a lot of fuel around, and for free (or almost). There are different designs, they are described with the article "".

This type of heating is the easiest to organize: he put a stove and a fire, but there is less comfort. Firstly, the heat is mainly near the stove, and secondly, you come to a cold garage and melt it until it starts to warm up ...

Drawings and diagrams

Photo reports from construction

Often the essence technological processes By verbal description It is difficult to understand, but drawings or photos help to put everything in its place. More questions arises about frame garages. They are the cheapest and are built quickly. A few examples are given below.

Wooden frame garage

The garage was built 4 * 6.5 m, with a gazebo 4 * 2 m. The lumber was delivered ahead of time, impregnated with an antiseptic and stacked in ventilated piles to dry.

The foundation is made columnar. Wells with a depth of 150 cm and a diameter of 35 cm were made with a manual drill. Sleeves made of roofing material were placed in them, three rods of plastic reinforcement were inserted, and they were filled with concrete.

Two weeks later, when the concrete was almost ready, they began to put up the walls. The bottom harness was assembled first. Used timber 150 * 100 mm. The harness was installed on three sides, the fourth remained open - there will be an entrance.

The problem was the relationship with plastic fittings. Not a particularly good idea: they drilled holes under it, but it’s not clear how to fix it further. Anchors were fixed in concrete (two per pole), and holes with reinforcement were filled with epoxy. Whether they will help or not is not clear, but we hope to keep it somehow.

Further, racks were placed above each column (1.5 meter step). They must be placed strictly up, without deviations, otherwise the structure will be unstable - bursting loads will appear. We started from the corners. One was exposed, fixed with temporary braces, then nailed, moved on to the next. The rest were leveled according to the set angles, not forgetting to check the verticality (with a plumb line, since the level gives an error). Fastened to nails, reinforced with metal mounting plates.

So that the free ends of the lower harness do not move apart, they were temporarily fastened with a board.

After installing all the racks, logs were attached below. They gave rigidity, and it is needed, as we will climb up and fasten the upper trim.

We continue to collect the frame of the garage

When all the beams are installed and assembled, we begin to assemble the truss system. It was decided to make the roof sloping, and it is temporary. Subsequently, the garage will be adjacent to the house (this is the first building on the site).

Having collected the required number of trusses, they installed them on the upper harness. They fixed it with pieces of boards to the racks on both sides, then they hammered it with nails, reinforced it with corners on self-tapping screws.

The rafters must also be placed exactly up, otherwise the roof will be taken away in winter. Therefore, how correctly it is worth checking often: before scoring, and after ....

After everything was installed and fixed, the crate was laid. A board 40 * 150 mm went on it, it was laid with a gap of 40 cm.

A corrugated board was stuffed on the crate.

We started to make the gate fastening area. Installed a beam at the top and sides.

The gates will be lift-and-turn. Under them, a frame is cooked inside, along which they will drive off. A gate frame is welded from a profile pipe 25 * 50 mm according to the size of the opening (with a small gap).

It is necessary to fasten the sheets with a gap of about 10 mm. For moisture-temperature expansion.

There is still a lot of work, but basically everything is ready. Rubble was poured inside until the floor was poured, but the car can already be parked, as well as drinking tea in the gazebo))

Do-it-yourself garage on a strip foundation

Garage for two cars (separate boxes) unheated. They were built on sandy soil with a low location of groundwater. Because the foundation is shallow. They dug a trench around the perimeter, put up the formwork, tied the reinforcing cage. Everything is as usual. Filled with concrete.

Inside the tape, they took out excess soil, leveled the foundation pit. The bottom was covered and covered with sand. It was spilled and rammed (with a vibrating plate).

Packed sand

A polyethylene film was laid on top (for waterproofing), a metal mesh was laid and poured with M300 concrete.

The height of the screed is 10 cm. They left it to set for 2 weeks. Then we started putting up the frame. Boards 50 * 150 mm went to the frame itself and the rafter system, struts and jibs are made of 100 * 25 mm.

In the corners, placed additional boards- for amplification. Racks are also reinforced in the places where doors and windows are attached. Installation step! walks "- the dimensions are small, but you need something door block, then put a window. I divided the rest as it turned out, but did not do more than 60 cm.

The truss system was assembled immediately. Since they passed in the middle bearing beams, and relied on them rafter legs. They were placed at a distance of about 50 cm. For reinforcement at the attachment points, metal mounting plates and corners were used. They were put on self-tapping screws, the frame elements were connected with a long nail.

A windproof membrane is stuffed on top of the frame. On it is a crate of inch board, the step of the crate is about 50 cm.

After stuffing the membrane and the crate, installation began outer skin garage. This is a metal profile on the walls and ondulin on the roof. There are no difficulties. Cut to size, fasten with self-tapping screws.

Having spread the membrane on the roof (start from the bottom, glue the joints) and nail the crate, we mount the ondulin. It must be placed from below, moving up.

It takes longer to fiddle with filing overhangs. They were sewn up with perforated siding (remains from building a house). Installed dry wood wind board 145*20 mm, painted white.

Installed wooden windows, painted white and a cheap Chinese door, which will later be replaced and put in a barn. Corners trimmed wooden board 145*20 mm, painted to match the roofing material.

Almost the result: more gates and insulation

The entrance was prepared: on the one hand, when pouring the foundation, an extended tape was poured (the height difference is greater). On the other hand, they were supported by a board. They fell asleep with screenings, tamped. Entrance is ready.

Roller blinds were installed last. At first, lift-and-turn doors were planned, but the price for them became merciless, therefore a cheaper option was installed.

Acquire own garage possible without investing heavily in its purchase. Two men will quickly build a frame garage with their own hands, as this construction technology is the most affordable and easy. The standard size of the building is 4x6 m, it can be larger, but it is inconvenient to use a smaller garage. It is necessary to provide free space for storing tools, spare parts, comfortable auto repair.

The strength of the frame garage

Frame assembly technology is carried out by erecting a wooden or steel frame. A bar is less expensive, but a metal frame provides good strength. They are combined in the following way: corner posts, the lower and upper perimeters are welded from a corner, the remaining elements are assembled from a bar. This increases the strength and rigidity of the garage, its resistance to deformation loads.

Foundation and viewing hole

The frame garage is lightweight, and this allows you to arrange a monolithic base (platform). They clear a piece of land measuring 5x7 m (an increase of 0.5 m along the perimeter). They remove the top layer of soil to a depth of 30 cm. Before building a frame garage, they decide on the availability viewing hole. It does not significantly increase the cost of construction, but its benefits cannot be overestimated: it is difficult to carry out self-repair of a car without a pit.

If it is provided, they dig a hole according to the marking using a shovel or drill with a gasoline engine. The strength of the walls will provide brickwork. You can reduce the cost of work with a used brick, the sufficient thickness of the walls of the pit is half a brick. Laying is carried out on building mixture, mixed in a ratio of 1: 3 (M200 cement: sand, respectively).

At this stage, think over the lighting of the pit and the location of the outlet. Electrical cable laid in a corrugation under a brick, displayed on the walls. At the top along the perimeter of the pit, a steel strapping is mounted and cemented. It stiffens the edges of the pit, prevents their destruction under the weight of the machine.

Further, a monolithic foundation is arranged around the viewing hole. A sand and gravel cushion, 10 cm thick, is poured at the bottom of the prepared area. It is covered with a thin layer of concrete (3 cm). It is needed for a better device reinforcing cage. For him, they take 8 mm rods, lay them up and down. The intersection points are fixed with a knitting wire. Formwork is installed along the perimeter of the site, and the entire structure is poured with concrete. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that it does not flow into the inspection hole.

Frame and roof assembly

First of all, a metal frame is installed, which is written about at the beginning of the article. The corners are connected by welding, observing the accuracy of the angles of 90º. Rigidity is provided by additional horizontal corners welded at a height of 1.5 from the floor, but these elements are not mandatory. The frame is installed on the strapping from the board, which is pre-treated with an antiseptic and mounted to the foundation.

The frame does not have to be combined, it can only be assembled from a bar. In this case, a timber with a section of 100x100 mm is chosen for the bearing racks, for intermediate ones - 50x100 mm and 50x50 mm. Vertical racks are attached to the bottom trim with steel corners and self-tapping screws. Between themselves, the beams are connected with overhead plates, while pre-cuts are made in half a tree.

The scheme of the frame walls should provide the necessary stiffeners. Bars are mounted vertically, horizontally and at an angle. It is customary to take a step of vertical racks of 50-60 cm. For comparison: in Europe, garages are assembled with a rack pitch of 35 cm. After the frame walls are installed, a floor is laid. It is convenient to connect the rafters on the ground, then lift them up. For them, and floors take a beam of 100x100 mm.

The roof does not require insulation, so the frame construction of a garage takes minimal time compared to other technologies. If you prepare the material yourself, the garage will require a small investment. The finished frame can be bought at a specialized store and assembled on site. This is convenient because all the fasteners and holes for them are provided in advance, and the garage can assemble 1 person.

In the case of assembling rafters on the ground, you will need an assistant to lift them up. After that, a crate is laid on them. For her, they take a beam of 25x100 mm, nail it across the rafters. The distance depends on the choice of roofing material. For a garage, soundproof bitumen sheets are suitable. They are quickly mounted, have a low cost and look modern and beautiful.

wall insulation

The frame can be sheathed with SIP boards using Canadian assembly technology. Mineral wool slabs are also used, then they are laid in the space between the frame bars. SIP boards have a higher strength and are used to assemble a frame garage in Europe. External cladding the facade can be made with any suitable material. The lining can be mounted most quickly and with minimal financial costs.

Entrance to the garage

swing gate made of steel 3 mm thick. Doors consist of 2 sheets of steel, strength is provided by a metal frame of rigidity. A heater is also used. Doors are hung on hinges, 2 locks and a valve are inserted from the inside. The lower steel corner of the frame is covered with a layer of concrete to ensure a comfortable entrance to the garage.

The best way to build a garage "in one hand" is the construction of a frame. At the same time, it is not at all necessary to have experience in performing such work or to know the technology thoroughly. It is simple and intuitive. Step-by-step instructions for building a wooden frame garage will help you understand all its nuances.

By the name of the frame garage, it is easy to guess what underlies its design.

Frame - a structure built entirely of wood. Metal here are only fasteners and connecting elements (perforated corners and plates). The name of the technology is "speaking", informing that the basis of the structure is the frame. After it is sheathed with the selected material, a full-fledged building with load-bearing and non-bearing walls, a truss system and ceilings is obtained.

There are three technologies for the construction of buildings of this type:

1. Canadian. A distinctive feature is the use of SIP panels. These products consist of thick (10-20 cm) polyurethane foam, glued on both sides with OSB (oriented strand board) sheets 9-12 mm thick.
2. Frame-panel, implying the assembly of large-sized panels from boards and their subsequent installation in the frame openings.
3. Frame-frame. The easiest to implement, allowing you to do the whole range of work with your own hands, without the involvement of assistants and lifting equipment. Next, this particular method of building a garage will be considered.

The main elements of the frame structure

Wooden frame garage - inside view

The frame building consists of the following elements:

• foundation;
• bottom harness;
• wall frame from vertical ordinary and corner racks;
• sheathing;
• top floor;
• truss system(absent in buildings with flat roofs);
• roofs.

The lumber used in construction is timber with a section of 100x100 or 150x150 mm and boards with a section of 15x50 mm and 25x20 mm. Sheathing - OSB boards 9 mm thick.

On a note! Lumber does not always have the right geometric parameters. Often boards and beams are bent to one degree or another. It is recommended to use a thickness gauge to calibrate materials. Since the tool is quite expensive, you can rent it and complete all the work on leveling the lumber in 1-2 days.

Is a bar necessary?

During the construction of a frame wooden garage, timber is not indispensable

The technology allows replacing timber with a package of boards laid on edge and interconnected with nails and metal studs with a cross section of 6-8 mm. By price solid timber and assembly are about the same. But the second one has one indisputable advantage: it practically does not lead the prefabricated beam.

Otherwise, it is inferior to the beam. When designing, it is taken into account that loads for it are 15% less than for solid lumber. But the garage is a light structure that does not imply a solid pressure on the foundation and floors. Therefore, in order to save money and the convenience of carrying lumber with your own hands, you can fearlessly use beams from a package of boards.

Pros and cons of a frame garage

The number of advantages of a frame wooden garage is several times greater than the disadvantages

Like any other building construction technology, frame construction has its advantages and disadvantages. And the first is much more than all other methods of building a garage.

Pros:

1. High construction speed. In the presence of good weather conditions, a 4x6 m frame can be built with your own hands in 3-4 weeks.
2. Durability. A garage built in accordance with all the rules will last at least 50 years.
3. Internal and external walls do not require additional finishing in the form of plastering and leveling, as they are flat and smooth surfaces.
4. The possibility of building a lightweight inexpensive foundation.
5. Minimum shrinkage or its complete absence, provided that high-quality dried lumber is used.
6. Ecological purity.
7. Lower thermal conductivity than brick and concrete buildings.
8. Ability to withstand significant and frequent temperature changes.
9. All-weather construction.
10. Indoor microclimate favorable for human health.

Minuses:

Among the shortcomings of the frame technology, first of all, the hygroscopicity of wood, its susceptibility to decay and damage by wood-boring insects, are noted. Risks are minimized by treating lumber with special solutions - antiseptics. One of the most popular is Senezh. It is recommended to apply 2-3 layers of the solution.

The second disadvantage of skeletons is a fire hazard. In order to increase the resistance of wood to the impact high temperatures, special means have been developed - fire-bioprotective. That is, they are also antiseptics at the same time, which allows you to save on the purchase of these solutions. The most popular and effective:

• "Senezh Ognebio";
• "Senezh Ognebio Prof";
• NEOMID from "Neohim";
• "Pirilaks" from "NPO NORTH";
• "Woodmaster" from "NPP Rogneda".

Among the shortcomings of buildings frame type include the complexity of attaching hinged elements (shelves, cabinets, mirrors, etc.) to the walls. In order for a nail or self-tapping screw to reliably withstand the load, they must be driven into a beam or board.

In skeletons, there is a significant surface area - cavities filled with insulation (mineral wool or polystyrene / polyurethane foam). Therefore, when designing a building, it is necessary to foresee the presence of beams in those places where hinged interior elements will be installed.

Drawing up a project and cost estimates

Before proceeding with the design of a frame garage, they study the features of the materials used in its construction. The length of standard boards and timber is 6 m. You can order products of other sizes, but you will have to pay extra for this.

On a note! By choosing the dimensions of the building, corresponding to 3 and 6 meters, they simplify the construction process, reduce its time and minimize the amount of waste.

In order to maximize cost savings, the design also takes into account the geometric parameters of facing and roofing materials.

For a 3x6 garage with a wall height of 3 m, you will need:

• timber 150x150 mm - 1.6 m 3;
• boards 50x150 mm - 2.1 m 3;
• boards 25x150 mm - 1.9 m 3;
• boards 50x100 mm - 0.7 m 3 (for the floor, if it is wooden).

The advantage of the frame is that you can save on lumber for formwork. It is built from the existing one, but for its safety, the shields are covered with a dense plastic wrap. After dismantling the formwork, the boards are used for their intended purpose: for the construction of the frame.

Mandatory budget items

On average, the cost of materials for the construction of a 4x6 m garage with a wall height of 2.7 m is 278 thousand rubles. (data are current at the beginning of 2018). The work of specialists in the construction of buildings - 180-200 thousand rubles.

For clarification the exact amount materials needed for the construction of a frame garage, you can use an online calculator that performs calculations in accordance with SP 31-105-2002.

To do this, you must specify the building parameters:

• length;
• width;
• height;
• step between floor beams (recommended 400 mm);
• step between ordinary racks of the frame (recommended 600 mm);
• insulation thickness (100-200 mm).

Advice! It is desirable to assemble the frame on nails, as they effectively prevent the materials from moving in any direction. Self-tapping screws work better on separation.

Required Tools

Construction will require both power and hand tools.

When building a frame, wood is used, which determines the choice of tools.

power tools

1. Circular (disc) saw. The Hitachi C7MFA-4800 is considered the most enduring.
2. Screwdriver with two batteries with a power of at least 19W. The best choice is "AEG BS 12 X-R LMB-3200".
3. Chainsaw. The best of the budget ones is the Echo CS-3500-14. The average price is 7100 rubles.
4. Concrete mixer with a capacity of at least 140 liters. It is necessary for pouring a slab or strip foundation. For the construction of a columnar there will be sufficient manual mixing of concrete.
5. LBM (Bulgarian), 125 mm.
6. A miter saw, necessary for cutting at a certain angle. Circular will not cope with this task. The purchase of a miter saw quickly pays off with the speed and accuracy of the work.
7. Pneumatic nail hammer (optional).
8. Sharpener for sharpening hand tools.

Advice! Those with experience self construction skeleton workers do not recommend buying a jigsaw. This tool is useless for most jobs and is completely replaceable by the existing manual and electric ones.

Hand and measuring tool

1. Quality bubble levels 200 and 60 cm long.
2. Roulette with a tape length of at least 8 m.
3. Chalk paint string.
4. Hammers for 500 and 1000 g.
5. Two axes, small and medium.
6. Mount.
7. Ticks (medium and large).
8. Shoe knife.
9. A set of chisels.
10. Wood saw.
11. Tanks and shovels for excavation and concreting.

Foundation selection

All skeletons are light buildings and do not require a solid foundation. Any foundation is suitable for this type of garage:

• slab;
• MZL (shallow-depth tape);
• columnar;
• on screw piles.

An alternative to traditional foundations

Semykin Foundation - a budget option

For small one-story buildings, the most budget option is suitable - the Semykin foundation. It is built from car tires, that are waste material. This significantly reduces the cost of the estimate. The internal cavities of the tires are ¾ filled with sand and gravel, poured with concrete.

Among the advantages of the base of automobile tires:

• shock-absorbing properties that prevent the structure from skewing during ground movements during periods of freezing and thawing;
• durability;
• cheapness;
• high construction speed.

Foundation selection criteria

The optimal solution for any type of building is a slab base. But when choosing it, it is necessary to solve several important questions in advance:

• where will the inspection hole be located, and what are its dimensions;
• where and how communications will be located (electrical wiring, plumbing, sewerage, ventilation);
• determine the location of machines, racks, workbench.

It is not always possible to foresee all the nuances of arranging a garage in advance, and in this case, strip or column foundations are chosen. They provide scope for choosing the location of all the above elements of the structure and its interior.

Construction of a column foundation

Construction of a column foundation

The columnar foundation is a complex of supports buried in the ground, located along the perimeter of the building. There are several ways to arrange poles.

1. Of bricks laid on a cement-sand mortar.
2. By pouring concrete asbestos pipes with a cross section of 200-350 mm;
3. From concrete blocks.
4. With the installation of formwork, reinforcement and pouring concrete.
5. From metal pipes with a wall thickness of more than 2 mm and filled with gravel and cement-sand mortar.

Regardless of the chosen method of arranging the supports, it will be necessary to form recesses in the ground for them. Holes can be dug with a shovel or drilled with a power drill. For the foundation for a frame garage optimal cross section recesses - 20-25 cm.

Construction stages:

Step 1. Choosing a place. It is important that the building is at least 1.5 m away from trees, any fences and buildings.

Step 2. Markup. At this stage, with laser level find the corner points of the future garage and mark them with pegs. Connect with twine or polypropylene cord. Check the straightness of the corners and make sure that the diagonals of the rectangle are equal.

Step 3. Site preparation. If necessary, level the relief of the selected place, cutting off the hills and removing the soil beyond the markings.

Step 4. At the installation sites of the pillars, they pull the cord "from wall to wall." Optimal Distance between the supports (excluding their cross section) - 80-120 cm. The thinner the pillars, the smaller the distance between them is chosen.

Step 5. At the points found, they dig or otherwise form holes in the ground with a depth of 100-120 cm.

Step 6. Formwork is made from boards with a section of 15x150 mm in the form of hollow boxes of the required size.

Step 7. At the bottom of each pit, a layer of sand 5-10 cm thick and a layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick are poured. Each one is carefully tamped.

Step 8 Install the formwork in the pits, level it.

Step 9 Rectangular rods are connected from reinforcement bars and installed in the formwork.

Step 10. Manually or in a concrete mixer prepare a cement-sand mortar with gravel filler.

Step 11. Fill the formwork with concrete with the compaction of each of its layers.

Step 12 After the pillars have solidified, the formwork is dismantled.

Step 13. Check the horizontal alignment of the supports. Use two meters bubble level. Deviations of no more than 5 mm are allowed.

Installation work

Installation of the lower trim of the frame garage

The next stage of work after the installation of the foundation is the installation of the lower trim from a bar with a section of 150x150 mm:

• 2-3 sheets of roofing material are laid on each pillar;
• each beam is sawn from the ends so that a tenon-groove connection is obtained at the corner points;
• reinforce the joints with metal corners fixed with self-tapping screws;
• install intermediate beams, with their ends resting against pillars on opposite walls of the strapping;
• connect beams with strapping corners and self-tapping screws.

• lay the floor on the lower floor (if they do not plan to install a viewing hole;
• erect the frame of the walls and truss trusses.

Most often, after the installation of the lower floor, they begin to install the corner and intermediate supports of the frame walls, which are connected by the upper trim. The step between the vertical posts is 60-80 cm. After that, the outer walls are sheathed OSB sheets. Fill the gaps between the frame posts with foam plastic or mineral wool slabs and proceed to sheathing internal walls garage.

The rafter system is mounted in accordance with the selected type of roof. Sheathe the roof with OSB sheets and arrange a crate on top of them for laying the facing material. The final stage of the construction of a frame garage is the finishing of the external walls and roof. After that, they proceed to the device of the blind area and the access road.

Caring for a wooden frame garage during operation

Proper operation of the frame garage is the key to its durability. Since the structure is wooden, high humidity is detrimental to it.. WITH outside the building is sheathed with facing materials that protect the walls and roof from precipitation. Indoors, high-quality ventilation is required, natural or supply and exhaust.

Building maintenance consists of several regularly repeated actions:

• inspection of the foundation and its timely repair;
• inspection of the finishing coatings of walls and roofs, elimination of detected shortcomings;
• maintaining cleanliness and dryness indoors;
• drainage device that removes soil and surface water from the foundation.

In order to build a wooden frame garage, you need to choose the right materials and type of foundation, study the instructions for each step installation work. A self-built building is the pride of the owner. Compliance with the requirements of technology guarantees the reliability and durability of the garage.

1. The question of building a garage arises for all motorists - owners of private houses, if the conditions of the site provide such an opportunity. True, it often happens that the construction of this necessary adjoining building is postponed “until better times” due to the apparent length and laboriousness of the process, as well as the high cost of building materials. However, there is a simple way out: you can build do-it-yourself frame garage, in just a few days and at the lowest cost - it will become the best option.

It is quite possible to build such a structure even independently. But the process will take much less time if, when planning the creation of a frame garage, you can find a skilled assistant with experience in the art of building, so that he is not only "always on the hook", but can also warn against mistakes and inaccuracies.

Benefits of frame construction

As you know, in recent years, the technology of building frame houses has become very widely practiced, which, with the use of high-quality materials, the correct installation of the frame and, perfectly replace cold stone walls. So, why not try to build a frame garage?

A reliable foundation and high-quality fastening of the frame elements will make such a garage no less practical and durable than brick or block buildings.

So, the advantages of the frame structure include the following points:

• Ease of installation and the ability to do the work yourself will save a lot of money, which, otherwise, will be spent on paying for the work of the construction team.
• The ability to build a garage in a short time is also a tangible savings in effort and money.
• The relatively affordable price for building materials necessary for work is depending on the specifics of the future garage.
• The small volume and weight of building materials will make it possible to do without the involvement of specialized equipment for construction work, and will reduce transportation costs.
• The construction of a frame garage can be carried out both from wood and from metal, at the choice of the car owner.

The main stages of work on the construction of a frame garage

If we talk about the procedure for performing the construction of a garage, then it differs little from the construction of a small house and includes several stages:

• Preparing a site for construction - clearing a construction site.
• Digging a pit.
• Foundation creation.
• Marking and assembling the frame of the walls.
• Creation of a roof structure.
• Wall insulation and cladding work.
• Installation garage doors.

So, in order to understand each of the processes, they need to be considered in more detail.

Site preparation

This stage of work includes several measures that must be carried out with high quality, since the evenness of the foundation, and, as a result, the entire building will depend on them.

Having chosen a site for construction, its perimeter is marked out, and then well leveled. The site should be 500 ÷ 600 mm larger than the garage perimeter on each side - this distance is necessary for the blind area. The marked area must be cleared of the top fertile soil layer by 150÷200 mm. Such work can be carried out using special equipment or manually.

The second option, of course, will slow down the process, but it will help save a decent amount, since calling a technician is quite expensive. Manually, the soil is removed using two shovels - a bayonet and a shovel. By using bayonet shovel the boundary and depth of the soil layer for removal is outlined, with the same tools it is trimmed and crushed. After that, the soil can be easily removed with a shovel, at the same time carrying out planning - leveling.

After the site is cleared of the soil layer, the soil must be well compacted with a hand rammer or roller.

Foundation for frame structure

The next step in the prepared area is to make markings for the foundation of the garage. You can choose any foundation for the frame structure, since the building will not be excessively massive and will not give a large load to the base. True, it is also necessary to take into account the mass of the car, as well as all the internal equipment of the garage. Of the existing types of foundation, in this case, strip or slab foundations are preferable, but columnar or pile foundations are also used.

According to the selected dimensions, it is necessary to outline the corner points of the perimeter of the base under the walls. For all types of foundation, the corners are marked, in principle, the same way, but their internal arrangement is already somewhat different from each other.

Work on marking the boundaries of the foundation is carried out in the following order:

- One of the corner points is outlined, in accordance with the binding to other objects on the site.

- At this point, marking cast-offs are installed - simple devices made of stakes and a crossbar board.

- The cords are stretched along one and the other side of the future foundation for the entire length of the wall and fixed on the cast-offs on the opposite side.

- Then, in the same way, the approximate location of the last corner is determined, which is also connected by cords to two adjacent corners.

- Now you need to achieve straightness of the corners. The crossbar of the cast-off makes it possible to move the fixation point of the cord on it within certain limits. To achieve exact perpendicularity of the sides, the rule of the "Egyptian triangle" is usually applied: sides that are multiples of 3, 4 and 5 will always create a right angle. Such a triangle can be laid out from long even rails, reinforcing bars, or even from a strong, non-stretching rope (cord).

Such a triangle should not be made too small - the probability of error is high. You can, for example, take "n" for 0.5, then the sides will be 1.5, 2 and 2.5 meters, which will be convenient and accurate.

- You can finally verify the correctness of the rectangle by measuring and comparing the diagonals - they must be the same length.

- If it will be equipped, then the internal platform for the foundation is additionally marked to determine the location of each of the supports - this process is carried out approximately as shown in the above illustration. At the intersection of stretched cords, pits for poles will be located.

• Column foundation in the arrangement seems much simpler than others, and it is quite possible to do it yourself without resorting to outside help. This design is more often chosen if it is planned to lay a plank floor in the garage, which is most often mounted in a wooden frame garage.

The columnar foundation can be made in different ways and from various materials - this is reinforced concrete, brick, concrete blocks or combined option designs. But for a garage it can not be called quite optimal solution. A powerful boardwalk is required so that it can withstand the considerable weight of the car, and the issue of equipment for entering the premises - the entrance ramp - is also acute. However, for a light frame structure, especially when the problem of construction time is acute, all these difficulties do not look excessive.

• great for placing a frame structure on it. In manufacturing, it is more complicated, it requires not only the installation of formwork, but also reinforcement in compliance with technological rules. Construction will take more time, taking into account the expectation of solidification and maturation of concrete, which means that the process of building a garage will drag on for a longer period.

However, the strip foundation has its advantages. There remain ample opportunities to create a viewing hole equipped according to all the rules. The floor of the garage can be made both wooden and concrete. When choosing a wooden flooring for lags under it inside the strip foundation, you will have to do additional supports, in the form of concrete or brick pillars, or wooden bars dug in marked places treated with bituminous mastic.

Prices for bituminous mastic

bituminous mastic

• often considered (not quite rightly) the most difficult to arrange, since it will be necessary to create a system of compacted layers from various materials before pouring the slab itself.

This type of foundation turns out to be quite expensive in price, if we compare it in terms of the amount of material and labor intensity of work with the first two options. However, we must not forget that at the same time a ready-made reliable garage floor is being created, which is distinguished by enviable durability. Even if the frame structure is planned to be replaced with the main walls of the garage over time, then slab foundation perfect for that too.

We will not pay more attention to foundation issues - a lot of information is contained on other pages of the site.

Self-construction of the foundation - how to do it right?

If there is no building experience in this area, then you must first "take a course." Details on how it is created - from calculations (there are built-in calculators) to practical implementation, is described in a special publication of our portal.

garage frame

The frame of the building can be made of timber, metal profile or these materials are combined with each other. The construction of the wall frame can be divided into several stages:

• Installation of the lower frame trim.
• Assembly and lifting of vertical frame structures of walls.
• Fastening the top harness.
• Sheathing, additionally strengthening the frame structure.
• Installation of the frame structure of the roof.

Installation of the frame structure is required to be carried out according to a pre-drawn drawing, on which all dimensions are affixed. It is best to prepare parts of the same size in advance and put them in separate piles, writing the parameters and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe frame on them - this will significantly save time during assembly work.

Bottom trim

So, when assembling the frame, the first step is to lay a waterproofing material on the finished foundation. Most often, ruberoid is used for this purpose. This is necessary to save wooden elements frame from direct exposure to moisture, and metal - from the appearance of corrosive processes. Such a “cut-off” does not allow moisture to spread capillarily from the foundation walls from the ground during the melting of snow or rains.

Further, on the surface of the foundation pillars, on a concrete tape or along the marked lines on a slab base along the perimeter, a wooden beam 120 × 120, 120 × 150 or 150 × 150 mm, a board 50 × 120 or 50 × 150 mm are laid and fixed. During installation metal frame a steel channel or a profile pipe with a square section of 100 × 100 mm is used.

Wooden strapping elements may have different connections at the corners. The beam is most often fastened into half a tree.

When using boards laid in two layers, which form the thickness of the strapping, the shape of the joint can also be called half a tree, but it is formed using a "bandage" at the corners,

The wooden parts of the strapping are fixed with the help of anchor screws or on studs that are pre-embedded in the surface of the foundation.

Metal parts, both pipe and channel, are connected at the corners by welding.

If the strapping is installed on a columnar foundation, or on a strip foundation, but when it is further planned to lay a wooden floor in the garage, then inside the frame, the strappings are installed on the edge of the log board.

Logs are necessary not only to fix the floor boards - they will also make the lower part of the frame base more rigid and durable.

Installation of the wall frame

The wall frame can be assembled in two ways:

- Directly at the place of its installation, that is, each element of the frame is installed separately and fixed in a common vertical wall structure. This option is most often used in the assembly of wooden structures.

- The frame of each of the walls is assembled on the ground in a horizontal position and only then, in the assembled form, is exposed and fixed on the strapping vertically. This method is convenient especially when, during assembly, for example, metal structures, additional devices are used - conductors, which facilitate the precise execution of assembly and welding work.

The vertical and horizontal parts of the wall frame are usually made of a profile pipe or beam 60 × 60 mm, as well as boards 30 × 120 or 30 × 150 mm, depending on the selected parameters of the lower trim and on the planned thickness of the insulation.

Metal and wood can be combined quite well. So, for example, the bottom trim can be made of timber, and the frame for the walls is made only of a square pipe. The convenience of this approach lies in the ease of fixing metal racks on a wooden base.

Upper frame trim

The upper strapping of the structure must rigidly tie the frame of the walls into a single structure and give it strength. For the upper trim, a beam or pipe is used, which will correspond to the size of the wall frame elements.

cutting board prices

edged board

For example, if boards 120 mm wide were used as vertical posts, then the strapping can be made from a board of the same width, laid in two layers, or a bar, for example, 60 × 120 mm.

This illustration shows a variant of the upper trim, made of two layers of board, with a width and thickness equal to the parameters of the vertical racks of the structure.

Primary frame cladding

In order to immediately strengthen the frame of the walls, it should be sheathed from the outside or from the inside with sheet material (plywood, OSB sheets, corrugated board).

At this stage of work, it will be enough to fix the sheets only on one side of the frame walls, since the sheathing in this case is needed to strengthen the structure. The completion of this process is carried out after the roofing material has been fixed. If further warming of the building is planned from the inside, then the sheathing is done from the outside, but sometimes they do the opposite.

Frame garage floors

The roof of the garage can be single-pitched or double-pitched. The second design option is more complex, but it allows you to equip attic space or just an under-roof space for storing various tools and materials needed both for car repairs and in the household.

The arrangement of the roof consists of several stages of work:

- Production of a truss system for a single-pitched or double-pitched roof.

- Covering the roof slopes with plywood sheets or installing the necessary sparse crates.

- Flooring roofing material.

gable roof

garage floor

A wooden floor is best installed when the roof is covered and the walls are already sheathed. This way you can keep the boards from getting wet in case of unexpected rain. For the floor, a non-grooved board is most often used, since it is necessary to give the wood the opportunity to change its state under the influence of temperature and moisture.

A small temperature gap of 3 to 5 mm is left between the flooring boards - it will keep the wood from deformation.

The boards are fixed on the logs, and are most often fixed with nails or self-tapping screws.

If a slab foundation was used, then the floor is almost ready. True, it is recommended to immediately treat a flat concrete surface with a special deep penetration strengthening primer, which will fasten the upper layers of concrete, strengthen them, and give additional hydrophobic qualities. Such a floor can be painted, lined ceramic tiles or left as is.

In the same case, when for the garage is selected strip foundation, over creation concrete screed there is still some serious work to be done.

How to concrete the floor in the garage?

A concrete floor for a garage is probably the best option in terms of strength and practicality. The nuances are covered in detail in a special publication of our portal.

Frame garage insulation

The heat-insulating material can be mounted in the frame structure from the outside or inside, depending on which side the primary wall cladding with sheet material has already been made from. In any case, the insulation must be located between the two layers of cladding.

Garage exterior cladding

Different materials are used for wall cladding from the outside, and the choice depends on the financial capabilities and preferences of the garage owner.

The most popular finishes are metallic or vinyl siding or siding panels, as well as sheets of wall corrugated board.

The professional flooring has quite affordable price, easily mounted on the frame and perfectly protects the walls from moisture, mechanical loads and ultraviolet radiation. The sheets are relatively light in weight, so their installation can be done independently, not only on a frame made of profile pipes, but also on a wooden beam.

Garage Doors

On the frame structure of the garage, you can install gates of different designs - sectional, roller shutter, up-and-over and swing.

The easiest for self-manufacturing are hinged double-leaf gates, and the rest of the structures, as a rule, are manufactured and installed by experienced craftsmen.

Swing gates are made of metal and (or) wood. To create a frame frame, a profile pipe or beam is used, which is sheathed with metal sheets, corrugated board, siding or just a board. Such gates are not difficult to manufacture if they are made according to exactly the dimensions taken from the opening. Such a design will cost inexpensively, and when it is insulated, it will become a reliable barrier to cold in the winter, which is extremely necessary if the owner of the building plans to equip it with a small heated workshop. The width of the gate is from 2.5 to 4 meters, but if they need to be made wider, then when drawing up a drawing of the future frame, this moment must be foreseen in advance.

In addition to the material for the frame and its sheathing, for the manufacture of the gate, you will need powerful hinged hinges for two wings, that is, 4 pieces, and for a door located in one of the halves and opening separately - 2 more pieces. To securely close the garage, a lock is purchased that is completely hidden behind the panel front door, and there is only a small hole for the key to enter.

Sheathed with sheet steel, they will be excessively massive for a frame garage, and they are not really needed for such a design.

It is easier to assemble wooden gates, or at least sheathe them with light corrugated board or siding, to match all the other walls of the garage.

Examples of building a frame garage - step by step

Insulated garage with gable roof

This version of a wooden frame garage has a completely “capital” and aesthetic appearance, so it will not spoil the landscape design of even the most equipped area.

Illustration	Brief description of the work steps to be performed
	So, the first step, after cleaning the site from the fertile soil layer, is the marking of the territory, that is, the right angles of the garage perimeter are determined along with the blind area. As you can see in the illustration, special cast-offs made from the board are used for this purpose. Their installation is carried out according to the instructions above.
	Inside the fenced area, the location of the foundation pillars is marked. In this case, it is planned to install the pillars only along the perimeter of the garage, that is, only under the future walls of the structure. On the long sides, in addition to the corners, two more supports are placed with equal pitch, on the short back - one in the center. An additional pillar is placed in place of the vertical posts of the future gate opening. So that the pits are not larger than necessary, and the formwork enters them freely, it is best to do the work manually, periodically trying on a box made of boards to the foundation pit. Laths are nailed on top of the box, so that a square hole remains in the center of the structure, into which a cement-asbestos pipe will later be installed.
	The depth of the pit depends on the structure of the soil, but it must be at least 500 mm. Crushed stone of medium fraction, 50 ÷ 70 mm thick, is poured into the finished pits, which should be well compacted. A wooden formwork box is installed on top of the rubble.
	The next step is to fill the formwork with a concrete mortar consisting of sand and cement in a 3:1 ratio. The solution must fill the entire internal space of the box, so it is distributed using a trowel or spatula with a width of 120 ÷ 150 mm.
	Having filled the formwork box, a pipe with a diameter of 150 ÷ ​​170 mm is installed in its central part. It can be made from different materials, but most often used asbestos concrete, as it is resistant to external influences. Having installed the pipe in a plastic solution, they make a short pause for the concrete to set, and then the space around it is filled with gravel, which should also be compacted. The pipe should rise above the soil surface by 120÷150 mm.
	A pipe rigidly fixed in the pit is filled with concrete mortar, and when pouring it, it must be “bayoneted”, for example, by trimming reinforcement. This process is carried out so that all the air comes out of the mass, which can form voids that weaken the structure.
	Immediately after pouring the solution, long metal embedded elements are installed in the pipes, made of strips with a thickness of at least 5 mm, and the height must exceed the depth of the pipe by the thickness of the strapping beam. On the embedded strips, two holes are pre-drilled in height. The distance between the holes is calculated taking into account the cross section of the beam, since it is to them that it will be attached. Mortgage strips should be maximally shifted and turned in the pipe to the inner platform, which will be located under the garage. Further work is carried out only after the concrete has completely cured.
	This time can be put to good use. Completely the entire site, from which the top layer of soil was removed, is covered with crushed stone of the middle fraction. The embankment must be evenly distributed and compacted. Crushed stone should fill the entire thickness of the removed soil. Work on the distribution of crushed stone can be carried out using an ordinary hoe, and tamped with a manual rammer.
	The next step is to lay a waterproofing material - roofing material - on the prepared pillars in two layers. Slots are made in its segments, through which the roofing material is put on metal fastening loops protruding from the pillars. After that, you can proceed to the installation of the lower trim of the frame, consisting of a bar with a section of 170 × 150 mm. The beam is laid on poles and pressed against the loops embedded in them.
	At the corners, the strapping timber is connected into half a tree, but is not fastened rigidly until the diagonals are measured - their length should be the same. If necessary, the position is adjusted. The timber ends along the border of the garage door - there, for this, additional supports are provided.
	To fix the beam to the metal hinges, self-tapping screws 100 mm long and 10 mm in diameter, with turnkey heads, are used. You should not choose fasteners of a smaller diameter, as they must securely hold the base in a predetermined position throughout the entire service life.
	The next step, through the holes in the metal hinges in the beam, holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled, into which, using a special hexagonal head, the fixing screws are screwed into the screwdriver until it stops.
	Further, on top of the strapping beam, a frame is assembled from a board 50 mm thick, connected at the corners also in half a tree. The frame is laid indented from the outer edge of the beam by 40÷50 mm and screwed with self-tapping screws 80 mm long.
	A one-piece frame is temporarily assembled, which will block the future gate opening - this is necessary so that the frame board is equally fixed in one line on both sides of the opening. Later, its excess part is sawn off.
	Next, the frame must be marked for the installation of vertical frame parts, which must be mounted with the same pitch, which can be 400 ÷ 500 mm.
	After the markup has been made, the corner posts of the frame are fixed to the bottom trim. They are first grabbed with long 100 mm self-tapping screws, screwed in at an angle, and then fixed with metal perforated corners.
	Before fixing, all racks are set according to the building level. If it is planned to equip windows in the garage, then openings are formed and framed for them. The horizontal crossbars installed for them will add rigidity to the structure.
	Horizontal bars are also fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in at an angle. In some cases, in addition to the vertical posts, diagonal puffs are mounted. They will also give the structure strength and will not allow the frame to deform.
	After installing and fixing the racks, the top trim is installed, which consists of a beam or board laid in two layers. The upper trim must be strong, as it connects the vertical racks of the frame, and elements of the roof truss system are installed on it. Especially carefully you need to strengthen the opening for the gate and the frame of the wall around it. For this, the areas around the opening are sheathed with plywood sheets, and the opening is additionally framed with boards or timber.
	After completing work on the frame, they proceed to the assembly of elements (trusses) of the truss system. It is convenient to assemble them on a horizontal plane, that is, on the ground. To do this, the rafter legs are laid out at the right angle, and then fastened to the ceiling beam (puff). A rack (headstock) is installed between the ridge connection and the middle of the puff, which will add additional rigidity and strength to the structure.
	The joints of wooden parts are reinforced with perforated metal plates, fixed with self-tapping screws 40 ÷ 50 mm long. Thus, the required number of rafter pairs is assembled.
	The next step on the long sides of the upper harness is the marking of the location of the finished trusses of the truss system. Usually they are mounted in increments of 600 mm. Further, truss pairs are lifted onto the harness and laid out in an inverted state.
	Then they are mounted - the triangles are turned over in turn and installed on the upper harness, according to the markings. First, the gable structural elements are fixed and reinforced with additional racks, there may be five or seven of them, together with the central “headstock”. These elements will not only strengthen the structure, but also serve as a crate for the decorative sheathing of the pediment. Then, a cord is pulled between the two extreme triangles, along which it will be easy to navigate, exposing the rest of the rafter pairs.
	The truss trusses are fastened to the strapping using special wide metal corners having perforations. Through these holes, they are fixed to the puff bars and rafters, as well as the upper strapping. Corners must be installed on both sides of the installed rafters, since only in this case, they will be rigidly fixed. After fixing them in the lower part, it is worth fixing them among themselves and along the line of the ridge.
	When the roof structure is mounted, it is covered with a waterproofing film from the side of the garage, which is fixed to the ceiling beams with brackets and a stapler. The film is necessary if the ceiling is planned to be insulated.
	From below, the film is additionally fixed with lathing battens 20 mm thick, on which the garage ceiling sheathing will later be fixed. To fix the boards, self-tapping screws 40 ÷ 50 mm long are used. The mounting step of the rails is approximately 250 ÷ 300 mm.
	The next step is to lay insulation material on top of the film between the ceiling beams from the attic side - most often this is one of the types of mineral wool. The mats must fit snugly against the sides of the beams, otherwise much of the thermal insulation effect will be lost.
	A waterproof vapor-permeable membrane is mounted on top of the insulation, which will protect the thermal insulation from atmospheric moisture. The canvases are overlapped by 150 ÷ ​​170 mm and fastened together with moisture-resistant adhesive tape.
	The next step is that the slopes of the truss system are sheathed along the rafters with boards 10 mm thick or with plywood sheets (OSB). If boards are selected, then you should not waste time aligning them in advance, since the edges of the formed planes can be completely aligned after installation is completed, by walking along the intended even line with a manual circular.
	The result is neat roof slopes. For ventilation, a gap must be left on the ridge between the slopes, which, after the roofing material has been laid, will be closed by ridge elements.
	Further, plywood or boards on the roof slopes must be protected from atmospheric moisture, therefore, a bitumen-based waterproofing material is laid on their surface, starting from the eaves. Roll waterproofers can be self-adhesive, or they can be fixed with staples or nails. The material is overlapped by 120÷150 mm.
	The wall sheets are immediately marked for fixing the crate. If flexible tiles are used to cover the roof, then sheathing is not needed for it, since this type of material is fixed immediately to the waterproofing.
	For the convenience of carrying out work, rails are temporarily fixed on the laid canvas, on which you can lean with your foot.
	The next step on the slopes of the roof is the slats of the counter-lattice, the ridge board and the eaves rail. The size of the rails in the cross section is usually 50 × 15 mm, they are fixed to the slopes using self-tapping screws.
	In addition, at the same stage, the wall frame is sheathed in parallel with moisture-resistant and heat-resistant drywall or plywood (OSB). Horizontal rails are fixed on top of the skin, which are necessary for fixing decorative finishes walls. In this embodiment, they are placed in increments of 600 mm, since this distance is optimal for fixing plank sheathing. After the fixing of the rails is completed, frames are installed in the window openings, if the garage project provides for natural lighting.
	Next, wind boards are installed. Their installation must be carried out so that they are higher than the surface of the slopes by the height of the wave of the roofing material, since they are designed to protect the gaps that inevitably form between the relief roofing and the waterproofing. In addition to these sections, wind boards are also fixed along the cornices.
	Then the first layer of decorative wood paneling. The width of the boards is 130 ÷ 150 mm, the thickness is 10 ÷ 12 mm, they are fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be sunk into the wood.
	To equip the water drainage system, places are marked on the cornice boards for fixing the gutter brackets.
	The next step is the installation roofing, in this case, it is a rubber-composite slate with imitation natural tiles. The size of a slate sheet with a thickness of 2÷3 mm can be 2000×900 or 1000×500 mm. Installation is made from the eaves, the coating is laid from left to right.
	After laying and fixing the roofing, it is covered on the ridge with ridge elements, which are also overlapped.
	Then, on the eaves, under the roof overhangs, a gutter is installed in the holders. A second layer of wood cladding is mounted on the walls. This layer is fixed on already fixed boards and covers the gaps between them.
	The walls inside the garage are insulated mineral wool, which fits between the racks of the frame. Mats should occupy all the space and fit snugly against wooden parts.
	The insulation material is tightened with a waterproofing material, which is used as a dense polyethylene film. It is fixed on the bars of the frame with staples using a stapler.
	Further, starting from the ceiling, all the internal surfaces of the garage are sheathed with moisture-resistant drywall. On top of this material, tiles can be laid, or it can be primed and painted. acrylic paints for facade work - at the request of the owners.

Two issues that were not addressed in the description of the construction of this garage are its gates and the arrangement of the floor, and they need to be clarified.

In this case, the project provided for the installation overhead gate, the canvas of which, when opened, rises and goes under the ceiling of the garage. This structure is designed, manufactured and installed by specialists. Of course, another version of the gate can be installed on the opening, including one that can be made independently from metal or wood.

As for the floor, it can be either wooden or concrete. In addition, a viewing hole is almost always equipped in the garage.

Wooden frame garage without insulation with a shed roof

This simple garage design is perfect for building in a summer cottage, and it can be built by any motorist who knows how to work with a hammer, screwdriver and saw. In this case, all operations can be performed independently, without the involvement of outside help.

This version of the frame garage is installed on column foundation, which is located around the entire perimeter of the building. The first stages of work are carried out in the same way as in the previous case considered, that is, marking the site, clearing it of sod, determining the location of the pillars, digging pits and installing foundation supports. True, a plank floor is provided, that is, the number of pillars is increasing - it is necessary to provide intermediate ax points for the log.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	A beam of the lower strapping of the structure is laid on the foundation pillars. In this case, a bar with a section of 150 × 120 mm is taken. Then the diagonals of the resulting frame are measured, and the frame is finally fixed. The next step on the intermediate pillars of the foundation are installed on the edge of the board with a section of 150 × 50 mm, which are attached to the strapping beam using special supporting perforated metal brackets. The boards will serve solid foundation for wood floor installation.
	The next step is the installation of the front corner vertical posts from a bar with a section of 150 × 120 mm. They must have a height of at least 2500 mm.
	Next, an opening is marked in which the garage door will be installed. According to the marking, two more beams are mounted at a distance of 2700 mm from each other. That is, 1350 mm is deposited from the center of the strapping beam in both directions - at these points the edges of the vertical posts will be located, limiting the doorway on the sides.
	The next step is to form the basis of the frame of the rear wall. It also consists of four posts spaced at equal intervals, made of timber of the same section, but having a height of 2300 mm. Due to the difference in the height of the front and rear walls, the necessary slope of the pitched roof is formed.
	The fastening of all vertical bars to the strapping is carried out using powerful metal corners that fix the racks on both sides.
	As you can see in the illustration, the top harness in this design is different from the project discussed above. Here, the front and rear racks are separately connected with a horizontal beam, forming the basis for mounting the rafter legs. Before installing the rafters, their location is marked - in this case, the distance between them is 400 mm. For overlapping, ten boards with a length of 5500 with a section of 120 × 30 ÷ 50 mm are required. They are installed on the edge and fixed with metal corners.
	Further, the middle of the sides of the garage is measured and marked. In these places, vertical racks are installed, which are interconnected by a horizontal crossbar, which should firmly support the rafter legs from below. The rafters are also attached to this crossbar with the help of metal corners.
	In the next step, the side posts are connected in the middle part with boards, which can be fixed on the posts with corners or one of the joints used to fasten the timber. As a result, the frame of the side wall is, as it were, divided into four sections.
	To make the frame more rigid, each of the four sections is reinforced with a diagonal puff, on which cuts are made along the edges. In the upper part, the board is installed in a groove cut in a vertical rack.
	The lower side of the diagonal tie is installed and fixed in the corner between the horizontal jumper and the vertical middle post of the frame.
	The result is a crate that resembles the division into sections of the flag of Great Britain. It should be noted that the frame can be quite simplified by fixing several less massive ones between the main racks. This becomes possible due to the fact that the construction of the garage roof is quite light, and the wall cladding is made of thin boards.
	Further, 20 mm thick sheathing boards are laid across the rafters. They are fixed at a distance of 50 mm from each other. If flexible bituminous tiles are used for coating, then the distance is reduced to 3 mm, and it is necessary for the possible expansion of wood, which can occur with high humidity. Instead of boards, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB is also laid on the rafters.
	This illustration shows well what the shed roof construction of a frame garage is.
	Having finished the installation of the plank crate, from the front side of the garage, the ends of the floor beams are covered with a wind board, which is fastened with self-tapping screws. Their hats must be sunk into the wood.
	The next step is mounted on the crate roofing material. As it can be used corrugated board or slate familiar to all. Of course, if financial possibilities allow, then other, more expensive materials are also used for coating.
	If the garage is covered with whole sheets of corrugated board, then it is laid from right to left, overlapping in two waves, since the slope of the slope is small. When using slate for the roof, which will be mounted in two or three rows, its installation is carried out starting from the cornice, and also from left to right.
	After covering the roof, you can proceed to the flooring of the wooden floor. For it, a board with a width of 150 and a thickness of 40 mm is used. Between the boards, it is imperative to leave a gap of 3 ÷ 4 mm, which will keep the floor even and will not allow the boards to deform from temperature changes, changes in air humidity, direct water ingress, for example, when putting a car in a garage in rainy weather.
	The garage frame ready for sheathing should look something like the one shown in the illustration.
	The frame of the walls is sheathed with a board installed in two layers. For the first of them, which will hardly be visible from the outside, an unedged board with a thickness of 100 ÷ 120 mm and different widths can be used.
	The outer layer should still have a more aesthetic appearance, so it is best to use a planed, antiseptic-treated board, siding or metal profiled sheet for it. The unedged board of the first layer is mounted with gaps of 80 ÷ 100 mm, and for the outer skin, the boards are already installed with a gap of 2 ÷ 3 mm. Moreover, these gaps should fall on the boards of the first layer so that through cracks do not form.
	Then the upper area above the gate opening is sheathed. To do this, you need to decide on the height - it should be such that not only the car drives into the garage without hindrance, but also its owner freely enters, without the risk of hitting his head through inattention. So, if the height of the facade wall of the garage is 2500 mm, then the opening can be, say, 2200 mm. And from this it follows that its upper limit drops by 300 mm.
	So, at a height of 2200 mm from the floor, grooves are cut in the vertical racks, into which the edges of the horizontal beam are inserted from the timber. A bar with a section of 50 × 50 mm must enter the grooves by at least 50 mm. Then, first a layer is fixed to the upper beam of the gable overlap and the fixed crossbar from the outside unedged boards, and then decorative trim.
	The finished opening is carefully measured, and in this case every millimeter must be taken into account. According to the measurements taken, taking into account the gaps of 5 mm on the hinges, gate shields are made from a board 20 mm thick. It should be noted that if the doors are planned to be additionally sheathed from the inside with a second plank or plywood layer, then a board for assembling shields can be taken with a thickness of 12 ÷ 15 mm. To lay the boards correctly, that is, evenly and with the preservation of temperature gaps, you need a rigid and absolutely flat surface. To do this, you can use plywood sheets laid out on a flat area of ​​the yard. To make the gate look neat, it is best to use boards that have the same width of 100 ÷ 120 mm. The shield is fastened with crossbars installed in the upper and lower parts of the sashes, indented from their edge by 150 mm. For rigidity and maintaining the stability of the shield, a diagonal board is fixed between the horizontal jumpers. For additional rigidity, the jumpers and the diagonal board are interconnected by metal corners.
	The finished sash is turned over, and the location of massive hinges is marked on it, which are screwed through horizontal crossbars mounted on inside sashes, bolts with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm.
	Further, the sashes are placed in turn in the gate opening, on the sides of which the attachment points of the hinges are marked in place. When closing the wings, a small gap of 3 ÷ 5 mm should remain between them, since they should not touch each other.
	The hinges are screwed through the sheathing boards into the frame racks using massive self-tapping screws or using bolts, under which through holes are drilled. When measuring the location and fastening of the gate hinges, it is necessary to control the free opening and closing of the leaves. If it turns out that the gate leaves are rubbing against the sheathing boards in some areas, then these areas must be corrected with a planer.
	To equip an exit ramp for a car along the edges of the gate width, powerful bars are installed on the edges of the foundation pillars and fixed to the lower trim of the structure, having a cross section of 250 × 180 mm. The bars used for this purpose must be well impregnated with bitumen, thanks to which they will acquire the necessary hydrophobicity and resistance to decay. If it is possible to purchase impregnated wooden sleepers, it is best to use them - they are ideal for installing support beams for the entrance ramp, as they are designed for heavy loads and are protected from moisture penetration.
	There may be two or three such guides. The front ends are recessed into the ground, only top part timber.
	A board 40 mm thick and no more than 100 mm wide is nailed or screwed onto the fixed beams. It is recommended to choose a board that does not have large knots, as well as a large number of small and medium ones, since these defects weaken the wood, and the ramp can quickly crack under the load from the car.
	Upon completion of the work, a finished garage, which has the most simple design and built from available materials may look like the one shown in the illustration. If the building is sheathed with other facing facade material, then it can acquire a more respectable look. In addition, nothing prevents internal insulation and finishing, which will allow the garage to be used in winter, for example, as a workshop. It will be enough to install heaters-convectors indoors and organize good lighting.
	If over time there is a desire to make an inspection hole in this garage, this will be done quite simply. On wooden deck markings are made and a rectangle is cut along it, which will correspond to the perimeter of the future pit. Then a foundation pit is dug, its walls are strengthened and equipped. The only thing that needs to be foreseen in advance, even when building a garage, is the location of the foundation pillars. It is necessary to plan so that there are no supports in the central part of the floor. This will not affect the strength of the flooring in any way, since the main load falls on the area where the wheels of the car will be located.

No motorist will refuse a viewing hole

The garage, probably, will not become full-fledged if it does not have a viewing hole. And if the conditions make it possible to equip it, then this should not be neglected. Step-by-step instruction in a ready-made garage - in a special publication of our portal.

So, it is quite obvious that if you wish and have basic building skills, it is quite a solvable task to independently build a frame garage on the territory of a summer cottage or next to a private house. The advantage of such a construction is the relative ease of assembly, and the possibility of using high-quality facing materials will make such a garage outwardly indistinguishable from the capital.

At the end of the publication, another example of the construction of a frame garage.

Video: the work of masters in the construction of a frame garage