What glue is best for assembling the model? Airplane models for gluing

Gluing various models is a type of collecting. What distinguishes him from the rest is the pleasure he receives more from creating the model itself than from the fact of purchasing it. A person who has at least once tried to glue a model of an airplane with his own hands will no longer be able to refuse it.

People have long dreamed of conquering the heavens. The idea of ​​creating perfect aircraft occupied the minds of many eminent scientists and philosophers. To this day, aircraft designers are improving technology and honing their skills every year.

But what should mere mortals do, for whom piloting an airplane is just a pipe dream? The answer is simple - design. Moreover, today this does not require much effort. You just need to visit our online store that sells aircraft models or, without leaving home, order your favorite model for gluing or assembling an airplane in the online store.

In both options, you will receive a wide selection of models of different scale, type, and complexity of assembly.

In addition, you can purchase ready-made radio-controlled models.

Today, in the age of the Internet, people involved in aircraft modeling can communicate with each other on forums, share drawings and literature, and organize competitions.

For many of them, modeling became the embodiment of a childhood dream of heaven. And for some, it’s just a pleasant way to spend leisure time.

Any beginning modeler should know the basics of working with paper. The quality of the paper models created depends on this basic knowledge.

All the following techniques should be taught to children from a young age, so that at school they can do it without thinking. Like any good habit, the basics of modeling need to be brought to automaticity in the child’s mind. I’m not just talking about those children who want to do paper modeling, this applies to any child because any creativity and development of children begins with working with paper! This type activities not only contributes creative development, but also develops perseverance, accuracy, and hand motor skills in the child. Let's move from theory to practice.

Workplace. Make sure you have a good, comfortable table and chair, lighting should fall from behind your left shoulder, if necessary, use table lamp. To avoid staining the table with glue, cover it with paper, film, or place a sheet of glass with sanded edges to avoid cutting yourself.

Remember that your elbows should not rest on the glass - this is harmful to your joints!

Paper- this is what we work with. Should be given Special attention paper quality, I like working with good paper! Good and bad paper are like two cars, one a Mercedes and the other a Zaporozhets, choose for yourself which one you “drive” :) For initial creativity and simple paper toys, it is best to use ordinary paper, for printing on a printer, A4 format, “Snow Maiden” type ", she has good qualities and is the most snow-white in relation to other brands. The density of such paper should be 80 g/m.

More complex models and toys are made from thick paper or cardboard. Today, cardboard began to be produced very Bad quality and find good sheets very difficult. A set of cardboard can be colored or white, choose which cardboard you will use to glue the models yourself.

If you like thick paper, then I recommend purchasing thick paper for drawing. Please note that the sheets in the set are not secured along the edges with sticky glue; it is best when the sheets are simply folded without gluing. The thickness of drafting paper can vary greatly between sets, so when choosing, compare sheets from different sets and buy the whitest and thickest paper.

If you need super white and thick paper, then at your service wide choose photo paper. You can print color scans on this paper. Sheets of photo paper make the most beautiful and colorful models. For work, choose photo paper with a density of 200 g/m2 or more; sometimes photo paper is almost like thick cardboard. Depending on the future paper model, you can buy single-sided photo paper or for double-sided printing - this is very convenient!

Stationery (silicate) glue is suitable for gluing regular paper, but I still recommend using PVA glue, you will understand the difference when you try to glue with both. It may be possible to glue photographic paper with PVA glue, but it is better to use Moment glue. Remember, there are different adhesives on sale and cheap does not mean high quality, that’s why I’m giving you photos of what I use myself.

You can spread the glue with a brush or squeeze it out of the tube directly onto the paper part and spread it with a strip of thick paper (use scraps). If you glue with Moment, then ventilate the room, as the glue is very toxic!

Working with paper. Paper modeling does not require a lot of knowledge and tools.

Basic tools: pencil, knife, eraser, ruler, compass, scissors.

The pencil must be wooden, of medium hardness (letter designation on the pencil: TM, T, F), even with different markings Pencils may not be of the same quality, please choose carefully. A pencil sharpening knife should not be too long!

Remember that it is easier to cut yourself with a dull knife than with a sharp one!

The eraser must be large and soft so that it does not smear the pencil, but erases it!

The ruler is preferably metal, from 30 to 50 cm. Plastic rulers, even new ones, almost all do not have a straight line. The compass must be rigid, without loose parts, the lead or pencil must not move, otherwise such a compass is worthless!

Scissors can be of different sizes, the main thing is that they do not fit tightly and lie comfortably in your hand.

The most difficult thing in paper modeling is to draw the development of the model, and without drawing knowledge it will be difficult to do this. If you don’t like to develop models yourself, then you can take ready-made scans.

I will tell you about a common technique for high-quality paper folding so that the fold line is smooth and sharp. For example, I took two rectangles, I bent one with my hands without using any tools, the line turned out to be simply disgusting, it is very difficult to bend paper along a straight drawn line in this way. I will bend the second rectangle along the line made with a needle from a compass under a metal ruler. Many people advise doing such actions after working ballpoint pen, but it’s difficult to find an empty rod and you still won’t make a line with a pen of sufficient quality, which is why I advise using a compass. Attention, you can cut through paper with a needle, it is better if the needle is blunt; when you draw a line, bend the compass in the direction of movement, almost laying it on its side.

Look at the result, the fold on the left is terrible, and the fold on the right is very neat. Try to do this experiment yourself, you will see for yourself in my words.

Working with a pencil. Don't give it any time less attention than anything else, because the final work depends on the quality of sharpening the pencil. Whether your parts come together when gluing or not depends on the pencil!

Sharpen the pencil sharply so that it draws a thin, clear line. The point is not even in the quality and beauty of sharpening the “wood”, but in the sharpness of the stylus. Learn to sharpen pencils with a knife or blade, but forget about the sharpener forever!

Be careful with cutting tools!

Now let's talk about cutting. You need sharp scissors to cut paper! Do not sharpen scissors by cutting sandpaper , the scissors will be sharpened, but at the same time you will scratch their inner side edges, they will cut sloppily and tear the paper. Better ask someone who knows how to sharpen scissors for help!

The most difficult element to cut out is the most ordinary circle. Children without skills cut out a polyhedron instead of a circle; you need to show and teach them how to do it correctly! First, you need to cut the part around the line at a distance of 2-5 mm, so that nothing else interferes, then cut along the finishing line.

The cut circle should not have any corners, just a clean, straight line!

Often you have to cut complex parts with small triangles for gluing (see photo). Before cutting out such a part, you must first go through all the folds with a compass; they are drawn with a dashed line. Next, use scissors to cut off the excess paper along the tops of the triangles.

In any direction, make cuts along one side of the triangle to the fold line.

Then, on the back side of the triangle, make a second cut until the piece of paper falls off on its own; no need to pull it out of the corner with your hands! You will get a neat piece, and the corners will be easy to bend thanks to a pre-drawn line with a compass needle.

To cut strips long or short and save time, use a metal ruler and a sharp knife or blade. You need to cut on a sheet of plastic or glass so as not to ruin the table! Press the ruler firmly, otherwise it may move and ruin the paper.

Often, to glue a cylinder, for example a car wheel, you need to glue the paper around the circumference so that the paper does not resist; it can be bent with scissors or on the edge of the table. To do this, take the folded scissors in your right hand, in your fist, place a strip of paper on top and press with your thumb right hand, now with your left hand pull the strip of paper so that the strip rubs against the edge of the scissors. You can also do this by stretching a strip along the edge of the table.

This is where I finish my acquaintance with the basics of paper modeling, if I didn’t tell you something in this article, I will tell you in others or you will learn it yourself in the process of work. I wish you creative success and will be happy to look at your paper models!

— your guide to the world of scale modeling!

Work on a large-scale prefabricated model consists of a continuous connection of individual work stages - elements of construction and assembly. Just like an airplane is created at an aircraft factory. First one stage, then another. At the largest aircraft factories in the world (such as Boeing), the aircraft is generally located on a platform that continuously moves during assembly (from the beginning of the assembly shop to the finish).

And if we want to get really standing model — we need to improve the efficiency of each individual element of the assembly process. After all, if one element is bad, then maximizing the subsequent ones is much more difficult. If it makes sense at all.

Often a large number of shortcomings are caused by insufficient elaboration of the previous stages.

For example, you can spend all your nerves removing the joints of parts - glue seams, preparing the model body for painting. Often after such work it will be necessary to use a primer.

All this could have been avoided initially quality gluing of parts. So that the joint turns out neat, connection durable, and the seam - inconspicuous.

BUT HOW TO DO THAT?

Here you will need to use different types of adhesives.

In general, until a certain time I did not suspect the existence various types adhesives used in scale modeling. Typically using the simplest basic type of glue. The one we used to glue models back during the Soviet Union. And I didn’t pay any attention to the fairly rich assortment of model adhesives in online stores.

And only after taking a closer look at the work of Japanese modelers in the video materials of the Tamiya company - Tamiya Custom, I decided to look into this issue in more detail. I looked at what exactly they were doing. What adhesives are used and at what stages. Then I bought a little of all the glues. And started experimenting.

Several models have been used up different manufacturers to account for differences in plastic. After all, for example, Italeri’s plastic is different from Zvezdovsky’s. And the same Revell.

It turned out that all adhesives have their own specialization. This significantly improves the quality and efficiency of work. You just need to know the features of the composition and use of each individual glue. And break the assembly process into appropriate elements in advance - subassemblies .

So, let's look at all types of glue in order. And we will start from the very beginning level.

Glue for plastic models: Regular composition

GLUE FOR ASSEMBLY MODELS: REGULAR

This type of glue is known to every modeller, because acquaintance with the creation of prefabricated plastic scale models begins with it. As a matter of fact, until a certain point this type of glue was used by modellers. Much later, Japanese manufacturing companies introduced other specialized types of glue into their product range.

In the Soviet Union, and later Russia, most modelers (especially mediocre modelers who collect models from time to time) use only it in their work throughout their many years of practice.

Therefore, this type of glue can be designated as universal standard .

Its main components are butyl acetate + polystyrene. Bonding is achieved due to the combined effect of the two types of action.

The first is the partial dissolution of the plastic on both bonded surfaces. When we connect the surfaces to be glued together and then leave them to harden, the dissolved plastic mixes with each other, connecting the edges of the parts together. The result is a “solid, single piece.” The joint is solid and durable. Ready for further processing.

This effect is also called welding effect .

The second is the additional fastening of parts with polystyrene particles included in the glue. They strengthen the molecular bonds in the dissolved plastic, helping to form a new solid compound.

The peculiarity of using this type of glue is that it is applied to the surfaces to be glued before joining the parts. Those. You must first apply glue to each joint surface. And only then put them together. For the gluing process to proceed better, it is necessary to give the glue time to dissolve the plastic of each part separately. Wait 1-2 minutes. And only then connect the parts.

WORKING CHIP

While working on a model, many modellers have to deal with the situation of a thin, shallow recess appearing at the site of the glue seam. This is possible when the surfaces are not sufficiently prepared and the edges of the parts to be glued have an angle other than 90 degrees.

To avoid such troubles that border on the use of putty after drying, you need to do the following. During gluing, it is necessary not only to connect the parts, but to press them tightly against each other. Press one part onto another. As a result, the melted plastic will come out. Having fixed the parts in this position, leave them to dry. Then simply remove excess plastic from the joint surface model knife. And that’s all - the glue seam has an excellent shape that does not require additional processing.

There is one condition. You need to practice in advance on unnecessary details. Different plastics from different manufacturers have differences in their structure. Therefore, the same pressure can cause completely different effects. If you apply too much pressure, you can easily ruin the details of the model.

As always, caution and accuracy are important here. And preliminary preparation

GLUE FOR ASSEMBLY MODELS: SUPERFLUID

In general, the name of this type of glue should sound like “glue with increased capillary effect.” This is a liquid adhesive with very high penetrating ability, good volatility, high fluidity, without a consistent filler (gluing is achieved by partially dissolving the plastic on the surfaces to be bonded).

The main advantage of this type of glue is the possibility of penetration - flowing into the joint between folded parts . In other words, when working on a model, you connect the parts together and run a brush with glue along the joint. And thanks to its high fluidity, it independently penetrates into the joint. The action of this glue is fast. The welding effect appears very quickly. You won’t have to wait long for gluing and hardening either.

Often this glue is supplied in containers with a built-in brush. But if you use Akan Pro glue, you will need a brush. An ordinary brush, preferably synthetic. One or zero.

Another one interesting feature highly fluid adhesive is that when it gets on the surface of the plastic, it leaves virtually no traces when it hardens. It quickly evaporates, leaving behind a cloudy, rough surface. Which is not critical for further painting, and does not require a primer.

I would like to say a special word about the Akan Pro glue. It also belongs to the category of high-fluidity. But working with it requires a high degree of caution. He - " nuclear". It not only easily penetrates the plane of the joint of parts, but also very actively dissolves plastic. If you pour this glue onto a surface with potholes and uneven surfaces, it will cope with the leveling task better than putty. He Very good dissolves plastic. Tested on Ital and Zvezda.

Also, when using it, you must be careful not to spill it on the model. Pro only in very small doses does not leave any imprints. Even a medium-sized drop can be enough to form a molten recess.

It took me a long time to get used to this glue, but I liked its power. So I experimented further. Then, having found out its features of application in practice, I made it the main working glue in the process of assembling models.

In general, at the moment, high-flow glue is the main one for me when working on a model. Be it Akan Pro, or Tamiya ExtraThin Cement. I use regular glue only for joining large parts.

GLUE FOR ASSEMBLY MODELS: TRANSPARENT

In general, having considered the above types of glue, we could stop. After all, thanks to them we will be able to achieve solid results. But that would be wrong. There is another very specific type of glue.

T.N. "transparent glue" Its representative is “Contacta Clear” from Revell. Its only purpose is to glue transparent parts. Both with each other and with the plastic of the model itself. In fact, this is a variation of the same universal glue. Only there is no welding effect. Bonding is carried out due to the base, which becomes transparent when dry.

The glue is applied in a thin layer to the bonded surfaces of both parts. Then it needs to be allowed to dry for about 5-10 minutes (so that adhesive layer was still sticky). Then we carefully press the parts to be glued together.

Glue for plastic models: Cyanoacrylate all-purpose glue

GLUE FOR ASSEMBLY MODELS: CYANOACRYLATE

Cyanoacrylate glue, better known as “superglue,” which is the Russian translation of the Super Glue trademark. This is the name in former USSR has become a household name.

Super Glue was first developed in 1942 (during World War II) by American chemist Harry Coover, who worked for Eastman Kodak, during experiments to find transparent plastics for optical sights. However, the substance was rejected due to excessive stickiness. In 1951, American researchers, while searching for a heat-resistant coating for fighter cabins, accidentally discovered the ability of cyanoacrylate to firmly bond. various surfaces. This time, Coover appreciated the capabilities of the substance, and in 1958, superglue went on sale for the first time, “exploding” the market.

In Russia, superglue is also sold under the brands “Clayberry”, “Sila”, “Cyanopan”, “Skley”, “Secunda”, “Monolith”, “Elephant”, “Super-moment”, etc. In the USSR, the glue was produced under the name “ cyacrine."

Adhesives based on cyanoacrylates can easily withstand loads of 150 kg/cm2, and more advanced ones, such as Loctite’s “Black Max” - 250 kg/cm2. The heat resistance of the connection is low and is comparable to the heat resistance of acrylic plexiglass: from 70-80 °C for conventional adhesives, up to 125 °C for modified ones.

Cyanoacrylate is a strong, quick-setting, instant adhesive. Easily bonds non-porous and water-containing materials. It sets in less than a minute and reaches maximum strength after two hours. However, its shear strength is low, so superglue is sometimes used as a thread locker or to secure a workpiece on a lathe.

Information from the Wikipedia portal was used.

In large-scale modeling, cyanoacrylate, thanks to its ability to glue structures that are completely different in their properties, has also found its place - it has occupied its niche. We use it to fix photo-etched products and conversions created from epoxy resin.

Often we use super glue purchased from print shops or hardware stores. At the same time, the range of model chemistry manufacturers has long included specialized cyanoacrylate model adhesives. Although essentially their difference is only in the special packaging, convenient for the work of the scale modeler. So there is not much difference between them. And what to use - everyone decides for themselves, based on personal preferences.

It is worth considering that super glue has two types of consistencies - regular and gel-like. The second is thicker, jelly-like. It makes it easier to apply glue exactly to the gluing areas, avoiding drips.

GLUE FOR ASSEMBLY MODELS: EPOXY

Finally, it is necessary to mention two-component epoxy adhesives.

Their main property is that epoxy resin, when mixed with a hardener, forms a strong and very durable connection between the parts. But, in my opinion, they have not found wide application in the field of modeling using plastic prefabricated models.

This glue is suitable for wood and fiberglass models, wire parts, and photo-etching. But it is contraindicated for polystyrene models, since epoxy resin cannot adhere to plastic.

Epoxy two-component adhesives are also available in two versions - regular and modeling. One of the most interesting forms of packaging usual options Cyanoacrylate has Contact glue. The shape of the tube allows you to squeeze out both the resin and hardener from two sections in equal proportions in one movement. They are automatically mixed at the outlet. Of the special modeling options, I know only glue from Tamiya.

But again, personally, I don’t see the point in using epoxy in our business. If anyone sees it, please reflect your opinion in the comments. It will be of interest to all members of our community.

At this point we have covered all types of glue used in scale modeling. What types of glue to use is, of course, up to you to decide. But to achieve sustainable good result- the use of specialized tools is required.

And therefore different model adhesives — BE !

That's all for today!

Good luck to you!

And wonderful models!

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Modeling is a fun and rewarding hobby for children and adults. By assembling models of cars, ships, airplanes with your own hands, your imagination and creative thinking, attentiveness and perseverance.

There is a large selection of sets and individual parts in model shops for gluing, so it won’t be difficult to find interesting ideas for yourself or your child.

It's a rare modeling process that can be done without glue. Manufacturers offer big choice options. Let's figure out what types of mixtures are suitable for this hobby.

Types of glue for assembling models

• Universal standard glue. Used since Soviet times to work with plastic models. It is based on polystyrene and butyl acetate. It works due to the so-called welding effect. First, partial dissolution of the plastic occurs on both surfaces when the edges of the parts are connected. After the connection between the parts and the composition itself hardens, a solid joint is formed, that is, the two parts become one. The polystyrene included in it also provides grip. A special feature of this glue is that it is recommended to apply it to the products before joining, that is, first the mixture must be kept for a couple of minutes on each part, and only then connect them.

• Superfluid glue. Characterized by increased penetrating ability, liquid composition. The parts are held together by partially dissolving the plastic. The advantage of this glue is its ability to penetrate between folded parts. Another important plus is that it leaves almost no traces after hardening, only a slightly rough, cloudy surface remains. This glue for airplane, car, and ship models sets very quickly. For ease of use, it is recommended to use a synthetic brush.
• The glue is transparent. Designed to work with transparent parts. The parts are held together not due to the welding effect, but due to the base, which becomes transparent when dried. The mixture is applied to the surfaces of the parts for 5-10 minutes and then combined.

VIDEO ON THE TOPIC

• Cyanoacrylate glue. In our country it is better known as superglue or Super Glue. It was invented in the USA during World War II by scientists who were looking for transparent plastics for optical sights. The substance was not used then; this only happened in 1951, when the Americans needed a heat-resistant coating for the cabins of military aircraft. Then, after another seven years, the composition hit store shelves and literally amazed everyone. Today it is produced under the brands “Clayberry”, “Second”, “Monolith”, “Super Moment” and others. This is an instantly setting adhesive; maximum bond strength is achieved after two hours. Suitable for working with porous and moisture-containing materials. In modeling it has taken a leading place, as it allows you to fasten parts from different materials. In stores you can buy super glue of regular and gel consistency. The second option is more convenient to apply, as it does not spread.
• Epoxy glue. Epoxy resin when mixed with a hardener, it holds items made of fiberglass, wire, and wood well, but dissolves parts made of polystyrene. Epoxy two-component adhesives are presented not only in ordinary tubes, there is also packaging specifically for modeling. For example, with “Contact” glue, you can squeeze out both the resin and the hardener at the same time, and they will be mixed in a special compartment in equal proportions.

The choice of modeling tools is very large. Let's look at the most popular ones.

Models of any complexity are made from plastic - airplanes, ships, cars. High-quality glue for this material should not spread over a smooth surface, so it must be selected carefully.

There are many manufacturers producing adhesives specifically for plastic. So, you can safely use polystyrene compounds from Revell, Italeri, Tamiya, Zvezda. Despite the similarity of properties, they can be divided into three groups:

1. Liquid - sold in polyethylene bottles with a convenient applicator.
2. Medium density - available in glass jars with a tassel on the lid.
3. Thick ones are packaged in tubes. They harden the slowest, so they allow you to work without rushing.

1. You should not add too much mixture to the junction of parts, you risk staining your hands, tools and the parts themselves with the leaking excess,
2. if a drop gets on a part, do not try to wipe it off, wait until the composition dries and sand this area,
3. the liquid glue should not get under the masking tape, otherwise, after completing the work and removing the film, you will find that the plastic underneath has “floated”,
4. the place where the super glue is connected turns out to be fragile, so it is better not to touch it, you can additionally degrease it,
5. follow the instructions for use indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging,
6. use the products strictly for their intended purpose and only for the materials for which they are intended,
7. When working with toxic compounds, it is recommended to use protective gloves.

So, you have decided to take up modeling, but you have very vague ideas (or no idea at all) about what it is, where to start and what is needed for it. In this short article I will try to describe in an intelligible and understandable way for every reader the entire process of creating good, high-quality models.

Please note that no matter how strange some of the steps in this guide may seem to you, you still cannot skip them, otherwise the model will turn out to be bad and incorrect. While reading the article, you may come across unfamiliar words - I will not compile a list of terms and describe their meaning - just search the Internet. We will learn from the principles of aircraft modeling, which are also suitable for other areas. The basics of modeling are the same for everyone. So!

Chapter 1 - Where to start?

Well, you'll have to choose something else. Have you chosen? Great, let's move on to the next point - buying a tool. You can choose the tool completely intuitively. The fact is that in reality, to assemble a model, you critically need absolutely all the tools sold in a model store, but you shouldn’t buy everything, since once you start assembling, you will still understand that the most main tool You still didn’t buy it because it wasn’t in the store and you will have to make it yourself. But more on that later.

The most important thing - don't forget to buy glue - the model cannot be assembled only with the help of moment and PVA lying around in your box, but don't worry, they will come in handy. I advise you to buy several adhesives at once - regular model, second, helium second... in general, choose what is closer to your heart. Don't forget to buy some putty, files, sandpaper... Then move on to the paint shelf. Here the situation is no better than with a tool. Again, you need ALL the paints sold in the store, but if you came to the store on your own and realize that you simply won’t bring the entire counter home, buy at least all the base colors, as well as those indicated in the assembly instructions your model.

Choose 15 brushes for yourself (if the store doesn’t have 15 brushes different sizes- you can also buy brushes of the same size, but from different manufacturers). Now you can move away from the paint counter. In essence, to paint the model you still need to buy an airbrush with a compressor, but you don’t have to rush yet. Until the moment you need them, you will find yourself in a model store more than once.

Now very important advice: While in a model store, under no circumstances should you consider how much money you will have to spend. You NEED to buy it anyway - why ruin your mood in advance? Do you remember? Great, now go back to the shelf with models and choose another model for yourself (you will understand why when you become a truly experienced modeler). Now go to the checkout and pay for your purchases. If you don’t have enough money, don’t even think about leaving any of the selected goods. It’s better to call your wife and ask to urgently bring the money set aside for the purchase of a refrigerator (don’t regret it, you won’t buy a refrigerator tomorrow anyway and you can always put it aside again, and you will have to assemble the model in the near future).

Chapter 2 - Assembling the model

Note: if there is no one else in the apartment except you, then you will have to look at the contents alone for the second time, but do not miss this important step in building the model.

Now take everything out of the box again, find the sprues on which the fuselage halves and wings are located. Find a tool in your purchases that can be used to separate these parts from the sprues. Separate and fold the fuselage halves together. Look at this structure for about 5 minutes, then attach the wings to it. Uncomfortable to hold? Try!

You can’t pull a fish out of a pond without difficulty, and for modeling this saying fits perfectly. Now find something to temporarily hold your structure in place, such as tape. Wrap all the parts together, place them on the table and admire them a little more. Now take everything back to its original position and put it in a box. Close the box and set it aside.

Chapter 3 - Workplace

Place a special model “rug” on the table. Oh yes, I forgot to add it to the list of necessary purchases in the model store, well, no problem, order it right now via the Internet. If you don't know what it looks like, just look through the entire catalog of the online store, and when you see it, you'll immediately understand what it's about we're talking about. To make the search easier, I’ll still give you a hint - it’s green and beautiful. The main thing is to buy a larger rug, preferably size A2 or even better A1! But let’s assume that you still thought of buying it in the store and we can move on. So, arrange all the tools around you. You don’t have to try to maintain order or some kind of sequence - anyway, after half an hour of work, everything moves between each other. Arrange the colors. Well, that's enough for today, you can go play with your child or do something else.

Chapter 4 - Reassembling

Find it in a box with construction tools model supplies (I think that's where they should have been), and at the same time set aside anything that seems applicable to assembling the model. It could be wire cuttings, pieces of plastic, a burnt-out transformer - in fact, anything can come in handy, so choose for yourself.

Return to the room and prepare your work area again. Place the box with the model on the table, lay out the parts on the table and begin to study the instructions. Don't make your wife angry and go eat; if you don't go for too long, she will be offended. Arguments that you are busy important matter they won’t have any power, and you’ll have to come to terms with that too. After lunch, wash your hands and try to get back to assembling the model. If you are distracted by anything else, put off the assembly until the next free day.

Chapter 5 - Precision and Aftermarket Purchasing

As you look through the photos, you will have some questions, the answers to which you will not find, and you will have to find some good modeling forum, register there and ask your questions. After that, while waiting for a response, you can start browsing through all the topics in a row. Look at the clock - it's time for you to sleep. The next day, read what they told you, put the model aside and pick up the second one you bought in the store.

Repeat the entire process from the second chapter up to this point. Now you need to wait for your order to arrive from the online store. But you have something to do: while you were reading the forum, you probably realized that you did not buy some very important tools, as well as a compressor with an airbrush. Take all the money you have saved for the refrigerator and go to the store.

Make a list in advance, but you don’t have to take it with you, you will still need to look at all the counters and you will definitely remember everything. Buy everything you need and one more model. You can go home. At home, repeat all the steps from chapter two with the new model and hide it somewhere. Explain to your wife the need for a compressor and an airbrush, prove that the old refrigerator can be used without problems for several more years.

Chapter 6 - Build with Aftermarket

• Try not to lose the instructions - they are quite useful. If you still cannot find it, start searching in the remaining boxes, then in the stack of magazines in the toilet - if this does not bring results, then you will have to spend considerable time searching.
• Before assembly, do not forget to check how the model fits into the drawings. Even if the discrepancies are minuscule, and you understand that no one cares assembled model If you don’t notice, correct this defect anyway, no matter how much effort it costs you. After all, it doesn’t matter whether the error is noticeable if YOU know about it!
• When you cut off parts from the sprue (just for fun) that you will need only at the 30th assembly step, still think about how easy it will be for you to identify this part in the future. If you are assembling a cockpit and realize that the external antennas are very similar to one another, after cutting them off, try to remember well which one was under which number.
• Try to detail the internal components and elements as much as possible. Don't worry about whether these components will be visible on the assembled model. Even if not, and in order to admire them again you will have to break the model - work hard! What if someone breaks it someday and sees emptiness inside! The only thing is, don’t forget to photograph everything before you hide it in the fuselage forever.
• If you were careless to drop a part smaller than 30x30mm on the floor - do not try to find it - the likelihood of a positive search result is minimal - just waste time during which you can start making this part by hand, especially since it will be better homemade anyway. And when your wife brings the lost part a week later and asks: “Darling, what kind of plastic piece did I find under the refrigerator today?”, thank her and put this part in a special box - as a keepsake.
• If you don't like a handmade part even a little, remake it, no matter how much time you spend on it. Remember the main thing - YOU will know that this part is not as good as you would like.
• If during assembly you need to sand some part of the model (for example, after puttying), do not be afraid of damaging the jointing. It's still not right and you'll have to cut it completely!
• If you don’t find the tool you need for the job, remember: every tool (that’s right, every one) can be made from things you have at home. The only thing is that sometimes you will have to ruin something else to do this, but don’t stop even if this other thing costs more than necessary tool- you don’t have time!
• Don't be discouraged if something doesn't work out for you - the prefix “re-” is integral to modeling. So words like cut, repaint, re-glue should not scare you. On the contrary, it should mean that you are doing everything right and are gradually becoming a real modeller!
• Try to develop a reflex among your roommates - not to disturb you when you are assembling the model. If the reflex is not developed, try not to pay attention to what is happening around you - abstract yourself.
• Your relatives should also remember that everything chemical substances, which you use are NOT harmful to health. But nevertheless, use them in a ventilated area and do not allow children into the room while using them - just in case.
• If during assembly you encounter a problem that you cannot overcome at the moment (for example, the lack of the necessary material or the ability to make some part), put the model aside and start assembling another one.
• So that you don’t face another problem - the lack of a model that can be assembled, every time you go to the store for one jar of paint, buy one or two new models at the same time.

Chapter 7 - Painting

If you don’t find such information in the book, try looking for an eyewitness. In fact, there are quite a lot of ways to find out what color to paint, say, the back of the pilot’s seat or any other part. But even if you don’t succeed, remember the main thing: under no circumstances paint everything one by one, as indicated in the instructions!

Now start painting the model itself. First, choose which color scheme you want to reproduce. The instructions usually indicate several options, but this is not enough for good painting. You will find a few more (5-10) on the Internet. Now you can choose. The choice should be to look for the option with the most complex camouflage (even if it turns out not to be the most beautiful). Otherwise, everyone will think that you are looking for simple ways and no one among modellers will respect you.

Apply a coat of primer to the model. Scratch your head. While you are scratching, think to yourself: “I seem to have putty on it... I seem to have sanded it too...”. Re-spackle and re-sand the model. Prime again. This process can be repeated an infinite number of times. The same goes for the painting itself. The main thing is to find out how to remove the paint you use. And go ahead, don’t be afraid - the air in the compressor will not run out, and paints, in general, are not that expensive. After you finally achieve the desired painting result, put the airbrush in a drawer, place a large fingerprint on the model in the most visible place, remove the airbrush from the drawer and repeat everything from the beginning.

Repeated? I hope you won't repeat the mistake with your fingerprint and will be more careful. Start with decals. I think you have already guessed that the decal that was sold to you with the model is incorrect and bad. Order several suitable decals from well-known, expensive manufacturers, ruin a few of the most complex pictures, and make them yourself. Now the model needs to be given a realistic look. To do this, you will have to “spoil” the impeccable result of your work with the airbrush - scrape, scratch, dirty, wash off, because there are no clean airplanes with unscuffed paint and without scratches!

Conclusion

Afterword

Dopeless aka Rostislav Chernyakhovsky

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