How to seal the seams between the panels on the ceiling: choose how to seal the seams between the panels, the process of work. How to close the joint between the stretch ceiling and the wall: a plastic plinth or a decorative baguette? Joint design methods

Between the floor slabs on the ceiling, seams inevitably remain.

Do not combine old putty with new. The old putty has already dried up, lumps have formed in it, due to which it will not be possible to achieve the smoothness of the ceiling.

They do not decorate the interior of the room at all. To close them, you need to do the following:

• expand by removing the concrete filler from the joint;
• cover it with a primer;
• fill the seam with mounting foam;
• cut off excess foam after it dries;
• level the surface with a gypsum plaster mixture;
• make the final alignment of the ceiling;
• glue a strip of non-woven thin fabric or gauze onto the joint with PVA glue;
• putty the seams;
• sand after the putty dries with an emery cloth or mesh.

Tools and materials

To perform ceiling repair work may need:

• spatula with an elastic flexible blade;
• dry gypsum putty (preferably Knauf, Uniflot);
• drill or perforator;
• masking tape;
• nozzle-mixer for a drill;
• PVA glue;
• primer with deep penetration properties;
• fine-grained sandpaper or sanding mesh;
• construction pistol;
• acrylic sealant.

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Work order

The repair of irregularities on the ceiling can take place in the following sequence:

1. Expand the seam between the floor slabs using an electric hammer drill with a spade-shaped nozzle. Remove with a spatula or knife pieces of old cement screed and filler.
2. Clean the surface of the ceiling and cracks from dust. Prepare the primer according to the instructions for use. Using a brush, coat the ceiling seams. The primer should penetrate well into the cracks. The primer layer must be dried.
3. Prepare gypsum plaster according to the attached instructions. Mix the mass thoroughly construction mixer. A small amount can be mixed with a spatula. The prepared mortar for grouting should have the consistency of very thick sour cream. They carefully fill all the cracks and irregularities on the ceiling. It is better to close deep cracks in several steps. Each layer dries well. A seam of large width and depth can be filled with mounting foam. Cut off excess foam after it dries with a knife. The seal ends with the application of a leveling layer gypsum plaster, carefully rubbing it into the pores of the foam.
4. After the seams have completely dried, they are coated with PVA glue and sealed with a strip of masking tape. The width of the tape should be 2-3 cm wider than the seams. A thin layer of putty is applied over the tape.
5. After the repaired joints have dried, another layer of primer and finishing putty is applied to the entire surface of the ceiling. It is better to apply it with a wide spatula as thin as possible. Instead of finishing putty or plasters, you can glue the surface with glass cloth, prime and paint the ceiling. Ceiling seams completed.

Sewing seams is not easy. The material hardens for a long time, the putty tends to fall down. It must be held with a spatula for several seconds. The main thing in this work is not to rush. Otherwise, you will have to redo all the work again.

The easiest way to hide irregularities and cracks in the ceiling is with stretch ceiling. Another option is to mount a suspended, multi-level, plasterboard ceiling. It is possible with fiberglass paint mesh and various dry mixes. Over each seam between the floor slabs, a fiberglass masking mesh with a cell of 2x2 mm is laid. She also masks the seams in plasterboard ceiling. On such a ceiling, they are first glued with paper tape, only after that they are reinforced with a mesh.

You can seal the seam between drywall sheets in the following sequence:

1. Joint and part of the surface drywall sheet coated with a putty mixture with a layer about a millimeter thick.
2. A paper tape is laid on the seam, pressed into the solution, smoothed with a spatula and covered with a thin layer of putty.
3. Excess putty mass is removed with a wide spatula.
4. Each seam is sealed in the same way.
5. After the putty has dried, the seams are sanded with an emery cloth or mesh and primed.
6. A fiberglass mesh is fixed on the surface of the entire ceiling. You can temporarily secure it with push pins. A layer of putty is applied over the mesh and then carefully smoothed out. The putty penetrates through the mesh cells and firmly adheres it to the drywall sheets. Excess putty is removed with a spatula.
7. After drying, the ceiling is sanded and primed again.
8. If necessary, a final leveling layer of putty is applied. It should finally hide the traces of screws and seams, mesh and paper. Ceiling seams completed.

As a result, at least two layers of putty are applied to the ceiling surface. With the grid applied, at least one more is added. Between the application of these layers, drying, grinding and priming of the surface is carried out. It is not necessary to reduce the number of these cycles in order to save time. Such preliminary work guarantees the quality and durability of the ceiling. Only after that the ceiling is ready for final finishing. You can paint it in any color, paste over with wallpaper, tiles and so on. The approximate consumption of dry mix for putty is 1 kg per 3-4 square meters plasterboard ceiling area.

Any suspended ceiling, and the tensioner is no exception, after the installation is completed, it needs decorative trim along the perimeter. In places where the ceiling joins the wall, there is a gap. For different suspended structures their preferred options are applied, how to close this gap and give the structure a complete look. Stretch ceiling is a universal system, since it can use both a special plinth and a traditional decorative profile for any ceiling.

Therefore, there are two options for how to decorate the joint between the ceiling and the wall: use a special plinth (quick installation) or spend time and effort on creating an exquisite finish.

Using stubs

A special plinth for installation on a stretch ceiling is practical option. It will hide the gap between the two surfaces, but the frame itself will not stand out. This option is characterized by simplicity and conciseness of decoration. Externally, the ceiling will simply fit snugly against the wall.

Important! If the customer does not receive any wishes regarding the design of the perimeter, then the craftsmen themselves offer to install such a plinth on the stretch ceiling.

If the stretch ceiling is single-level, and it was installed in a room in ordinary apartment, then either an F-shaped plinth or an L-shaped plinth is used. The latter is also called the wall corner.

In large rooms, a dividing profile with a dividing plug is also used. This skirting board differs from others in that it has a symmetrical profile: two locks and two shelves that overlap the canvas on both sides of the joint.

The L-shaped plinth has one rib with hooks, which is inserted into the power profile of the strapping. It is made from soft grades of plastic, so it is flexible and allows you to make a joint along a curved line.

The F-shaped plinth is rigid, it is installed on flat surfaces, mainly from tiles or drywall. Due to its rigidity, it holds a straight line well, which is important for the overall impression of neat framing.

To install such a plinth, the owner will need a few minutes. With a fastening rib, the corner is inserted into the profile and pushed through with pressure. To do this, use a blunt spatula.

Except quick installation, such a plinth has a number of advantages:

• Multiple dismantling without damaging the baseboard itself and finishing materials. If you need to remove the canvas, the plinth is easily removed from the groove and inserted back.
• The soft L-shaped plinth will hide the joint in curved structures.
• Of all the options, this is the cheapest material.
• Laconic design can be the most harmonious solution for a minimalist interior, where curly decorative details are not welcome.

Under a wide palette of fabric and film materials, no less colorful assortment is produced. decorative caps. This is done not from an excess of imagination, but because it is desirable to select a cap of the same color for any canvas. The fact is that on a large span, the decorative tape gives a wave, no matter how the master tries to align it. The plinth of the same tone will only indicate the smooth edge of the ceiling, and the wave will not be noticeable.

It is important to choose the right skirting board for the installed load-bearing baguette. There are plugs that are used only for baguettes harpoon system, for others, the fastening ribs are designed for a baguette of the wedge mounting technology. There is a difference between plugs for aluminum and plastic baguettes. Therefore, returning to the previous recommendation, rely on the master installer. If you have to deal with the purchase of masking tape yourself, then take a piece of the carrier profile with you so that you can pick up a suitable plinth in the store.

Video, how the decorative cap is fixed:

The quality of the wall finish plays an important role when choosing a baguette for a stretch ceiling. If they are uneven, then it is better to refuse the standard masking tape and use a wide plinth made of polyurethane or foam.

Decorative baguettes

A decorative plinth is chosen by those owners for whom a stretched canvas does not yet mean the end of work on the design of the ceiling space. In this case, the plinth not only hides the joint, but also performs an important decorative function. Although it can be installed close to the ceiling, it is more often mounted with an understatement. The stretch ceiling looks much more spectacular with lighting, and lamps are mounted in this niche.

Of all the variety of forms, a flat extruded plinth will be a win-win. The smooth baguette blends harmoniously with the glossy surface of the film in any setting. Skirting board with imitation decorative stucco requires a balanced approach, taking into account the style of the rest of the interior.

Under stretch fabric use any polyurethane or polystyrene baguettes, but with some installation features. Since the plinth cannot be glued to the film or fabric, it is fixed only on one side to a vertical surface. Hence, some of the nuances regarding the choice and installation of a decorative baguette:

• If the perimeter of the room is even, then it is better to use a lightweight foam plinth. It is glued to acrylic liquid nails or ordinary finishing putty.
• For designs with curved lines, polyurethane is taken, since it bends well. But this stuff is heavy, so Special attention paid to the preparation of the surface of the base and right choice adhesive for mounting.
• To hold the baguette firmly, choose a profile with a vertically elongated section and a wide mounting shelf.
• The wallpaper is glued after installing the baguette, carefully trimming them with a wide spatula.
• When mounting close to the film, they still leave a small gap so that the canvas does not slam against the plinth during vibration.

The disadvantages associated with the complexity of the installation are obvious:

• Even in a rectangular room with an even perimeter, you will need to trim the baguette in four corners, and not everyone can do it neatly. Even experienced craftsmen use for this miter box.

• You will have to deal with putty or acrylic adhesives. To make the plinth monolithic, the joint in the corners and cracks is sealed.
• The plinth is painted several times. If the first layer is easy to perform, then when finishing the glued baguette, you should try not to stain the canvas.

Important! Remove the plinth and not damage it will not work. If you want to dismantle the canvas, the baguette comes off and after installing the film in place, a new one is bought.

If desired, you can install plaster molding. In this case we are talking about creating a whole composition of a cornice type using elements of pilasters, curly moldings, columns. Such decorations adorn complex multilevel structures, with combined finishes.

Wooden skirting boards are installed only in rooms with wood trim, where other materials are inappropriate.

decorative braid

AT recent times appeared new way decorating the ceiling contour with a decorative cord. This element will not only hide the joint between the vertical and horizontal planes, clearly separate the canvas and the vertical surface, but will also become a bright detail that requires a special style in the rest of the interior.

According to the texture, the braid is woven and twisted. It is installed in the same way as a plastic plinth: it is pressed into the profile groove. But at the same time, it is necessary to control the straightness of the edging, therefore, a long rule is used on straight sections, and on curvilinear sections they rely on the eye and patience.

On sale there are such types of decorative cord for installation in a stretch ceiling:

• Cord with woven core. For elasticity, rubber veins are woven into the threads. Due to this, with uneven indentation, the cord tends to straighten out, thereby helping the master to get a straight edging.
• With metal reinforcement. Allows you to get a smooth bend on curved lines.
• Cord with a single-color braid or with multi-colored threads.

As a rule, at the same time, garlands, picturesque ornaments inherent in the style of classic, empire, baroque are always present in the interior.

Movement joints between ceiling tiles are one of the most difficult surface defects. For decades, people struggled with this problem, but the cracks reappeared due to the shrinkage of the building and seasonal ground movements. The construction market proposes to solve this issue by installing a hinged structure that will hide all defects. However, only a few can afford such an expensive purchase, and the dimensions of the room are not always suitable. How to seal the seams between the tiles on the ceiling to forget about this problem forever?

So that the ceiling seams are not visible, you need to carry out a series of finishing measures using special tools. But first you need to prepare the surface for work - remove the old coating. It is also worth ridding the seams of cement and lime.

A thorough primer can only be carried out on a dry, cleaned ceiling.

In the process of work, you can not proceed to applying the next layer until the previous one dries. This is important nuance which must be observed. Otherwise, the quality of the work performed will suffer.

How to seal the seams on the ceiling between the plates: a quick way to get rid of large cracks

If as finishing material wallpaper or fabric will be used for the ceiling, then the seam between the plates can be sealed with building foam and putty. This is a simple and fast method, which is most often used in the presence of wide and deep cracks.

If future plans include full alignment and painting of the ceiling, it is better to use more in a quality way seam seals.

Otherwise, after a while the surface will have to be decorated again. Because on the ceiling in places of grouting, rusts can form, which the paint cannot hide.

The process of overlapping the seam is divided into several stages:

• First, the crack is expanded with a perforator. For this work, it is better to use a special spatula, which is included in the kit.
• Next, the seam is cleaned with a construction knife. Then - smearing the crack with a primer deep penetration. This stage work is best done using a thick paint brush.
• After that, the seam is filled with mounting foam using a construction gun. After 30 minutes of drying, the excess material is cut off so that a flat surface is obtained. For best result it is better to use a clerical knife.
• Next, the primer is mixed from dry building mix, which is then carefully smeared with a seam with a spatula. This should be done with confident rubbing movements so that the putty enters all the voids of the foam.
• After 30 - 40 minutes, the second layer of the prepared mixture is applied with a wide spatula.

Similarly, it is better to close all the holes that are on the surface. Including the places where pipes enter the ceiling, if any. After drying the sealed holes and cracks, the entire surface of the ceiling should be primed and puttied.

How to close the seams on the ceiling: surface preparation for painting

This method is perfect for eliminating small cracks on the surface, for the design of which whitewashing or painting is chosen. The quality of the work performed will directly depend on the time that was given to dry each layer. Therefore, to get the perfect ceiling, it is important to follow the instructions exactly.

Sealing is carried out in several stages:

• The first step is to expand the crack and clean it. Next, the seam should be primed and left to dry completely for 12 hours.
• Then you can move on to puttying. For this work, it is better to use building gypsum, which in a small amount must be diluted to a liquid state with PVA glue. It should be remembered that you can work with this material only for a few minutes.
• The diluted mixture should be placed on an auxiliary spatula and begin to rub into the seam. After closing the crack, the protruding part of the hardening material must be carefully removed, thereby leveling it with the ceiling surface. Next, the seam should be covered and left to dry completely for 12 hours.

Another great option putty is a diluted tile adhesive on cement base. The use of this material almost completely eliminates the possibility of a crack along the closed seam.

The final step will be gluing a special masking mesh onto the seam, which is then smeared with finishing putty along the entire length. The final layer should be left to dry completely for 12 hours. After this time, you can proceed to the finishing putty of the entire ceiling and subsequent finishing.

The joint between the wall and the ceiling: ways to seal

Another common problem is the presence of a crack between the wall and the ceiling. Such a defect is an obstacle to high-quality finishing of the room and spoils the entire appearance of the room.

There are several materials that can be used to close the joint between the wall and the ceiling:

• Mounting foam;
• Gypsum solution;
• Synthetic putty;
• Moisture resistant putty.

The most practical and convenient to use is polyurethane foam. When dried, this material expands, filling all the voids between the ceiling and the wall.

Large joints can be closed with a reinforcing mesh, which must be placed in the resulting cracks. Often used and cotton (or linen) fabric soaked in an adhesive solution, which is placed over the joint. The final stage, regardless of the material chosen, will be the application of a layer of plaster, which will fix the result.

What to do if joints are visible on the ceiling: final surface leveling

After completion of work on closing the cracks, you should proceed to the final leveling of the surface. This is done using abrasive mixtures.

The ideal surface will turn out if you use interlining. It should be glued to the ceiling before the final putty. This material helps to remove small irregularities, allowing you to get a smooth ceiling.

After applying the finishing putty, the surface should be primed for the last time. After the work has been done, you can give the ceiling any color by applying paint with a spray gun.

Recommendations of professionals: how to seal the seams between the tiles on the ceiling (video)

Seams between ceiling tiles are a long-standing problem, which today is easily solved with the help of special materials and compounds. picking up suitable option, should be guided by the size of the crack and desired way further surface finishing. Get the perfect ceiling hinged structures really. The main thing is to carry out the work step by step and observe all the important nuances.

When repairing an apartment, one of the most difficult areas is the ceiling. Due to shrinkage of the house, subsidence or movement of the soil, cracks form between the floors different depth. Create beautiful view the interior with cracks in the ceiling will not succeed, therefore, the seams between the floor slabs will have to be sealed. The procedure is performed manually, but has a number of features.

Tools and materials

Sealing the seams on the ceiling will require the preparation of tools and material. They should be prepared before the start of ceiling work with plates.

Spatula with a flexible elastic blade

How to seal the seams on the ceiling between the plates? This type of work requires:

• deep penetration primer, better . The primer is intended to improve adhesion concrete surface and the material with which it is planned to seal the cracks;
• cement grade NTs, it is used to eliminate deep grooves. The main difference from the standard composition is the ability to expand and fill holes in the process of solidification;
• for wide cracks, heat-insulating material is useful, the filler is construction foam, polyurethane or polyethylene foam;
• putty with elastic material (latex);
• sealant;
• reinforced mesh with a width of 4-5 cm, if the width of the crack allows you to place the metal base inside;
• start and finish patches.

Processing the ceiling, like the floor, walls, you will need basic electrical appliances. The type of tool depends on the seam sealing technology, usually it is enough:

• spatulas of various sizes;
• metal brush;
• spray gun;
• construction knife;
• perforator, easy to replace with a drill with an impact mode;
• sandpaper.

Before closing the joints of the plates on the ceiling, you should take care of personal safety: eye protection goggles, a respirator, comfortable gloves and overalls.

How to remove the seams on the ceiling: the preparatory stage

Before sealing the seams on the ceiling, it is important to carry out the preparation stage of the coating. The surface must be solid and primed. Any coatings with weak fixation are best removed: old putty, paint, wallpaper, cement, lime, etc.

Sealing the seams of floor slabs is best done in clean room(after wet cleaning). In order to achieve better adhesion and a normal flow of mineralization of the working solution, the room must be dry. A primer is applied on top of the cleaned ceiling surface.

Before moving on to applying the next layer, it is important to wait for the previous one to harden. The amount of time depends on the temperature and type of material.

Working with a wide shallow joint

In the presence of shallow cracks between floor slabs with a width of 3 cm, it is better to use a filler, mounting foam.

How to seal the seam between the tiles on the ceiling with foam? For this:

1. Insert into the recess mounting gun and fill the hole with foam.
2. Wait for the foam to dry, usually takes about 2-4 hours.
3. With a construction knife, all protruding parts are removed, it is better to make a recess of a few millimeters for better grip, but the depth should not exceed 5 mm.
4. The recess is treated with an elastic putty. It is convenient to use the material with the help of 2 spatulas: narrow and wide. The mixture is stored on a wide tool, and putty is applied with a narrow spatula.
5. Cover the seams on the ceiling with a wide spatula, removing excess and other defects.

Work with a wide joint of great depth

If you have to seal a seam between tiles on the ceiling with a width of more than 3 cm and a relatively large depth, you should not use foam.

Work algorithm:

1. Filling the notch heat-insulating material. Foamed polyethylene and polyurethane foam are suitable for the purpose.
2. Fixing the insulation using a sealant with maximum resistance to moisture.
3. After sealing the crack, the gap is sealed with NC cement, but a small groove is left with a depth of up to 5 mm.
4. After the cement has completely hardened, a latex type of putty is applied on top, and the plane of the slab is leveled with it.
5. With a spatula, remove the excess layer of preliminary putty and level it as much as possible.

Working with deep and narrow joint

It is better to seal narrow but deep seams between floor slabs in the same way as in the previous case.

How to seal the seams on the ceiling between the tiles? The sequence of work is as follows:

1. A sealant is applied to a piece of insulation, it is placed inside the groove. The material should be firmly pushed into the recess.
2. After high-quality tamping with a heater, about 1 cm of depth should remain for the introduction of NTs cement. It is important to leave a recess of 5 mm.
3. On frozen cement mortar latex putty is applied, it is leveled with a spatula.

Next steps

Sealing between panels is not completed in the previous steps. It is important to carry out the entire processing complex so that defects do not appear in the future. Otherwise, when the soil moves, the foundations of the building, the floor seams will crack again, all work will be in vain.

The reason for the appearance of cracks may be an incorrect calculation of the load on the structure or neglect of construction technology, which causes the building to shrink. It is important at the stage of building a house to take into account the weight of the insulation of the house and lay the plumbing in advance to prevent destruction. bearing walls and foundation afterwards.

Protection of joints between floor slabs from destruction is carried out in stages:

1. Wait for the latex putty to harden, it takes about 2 days to dry completely.
2. Preparation for reinforcement of the recess. The starting layer of putty is applied, it is laid with a small protrusion beyond the edges by 4-5 cm.
3. A reinforcing mesh is pressed into the material, a roller or a narrow spatula will do.
4. A spatula is passed along the putty to remove excess.
5. After the material has hardened, the surface should be treated sandpaper with fine or medium grain.
6. Re-applying the starting putty will help create an ideal plane, cleaning is performed with fine-grained sandpaper.
7. A finishing putty coating is applied on top.
8. After hardening, re-treat with sandpaper.
9. The final stage is painting or pasting the ceiling.

Plastering

If in parallel with the destroyed seams on the ceiling there is a significant slope in any direction, it should be leveled. The best way are plaster compositions, their installation is preceded by the installation of the grid. The entire working surface is covered with concrete contact soil, it contains solid, large particles to improve adhesion to concrete. To cover the ceiling, a composition of cement with gypsum is prepared.

Close up the hole

Due to ignoring building codes, a marriage may appear on the ceiling, one of the most dangerous is a hole. Ceiling joints between tiles are sealed using one of two methods.

First way:

1. A brush with an elongated handle cleans the hole from the inside.
2. It is important to remove loose dust, creating a strong grip; for this, the entire surface is thoroughly sprayed with a spray gun with soil.
3. Mounting foam is blown inside.
4. After complete solidification, cut off areas with excess material with a sharp knife.
5. A recess is cut in the shape of a cone with a height of 4-5 cm.
6. The recess is sealed with NTs cement and the material is allowed to harden.
7. The surface is leveled with a layer of putty, and a sickle mesh is laid inside.
8. Subsequent operations do not differ from sealing the seams on the ceiling between the plates.

There is a second method for sealing the joints of floor slabs with holes:

1. An impromptu frame is created that will fit snugly into the hole, it is placed inside the defective area. Any metal wire can be used.
2. The frame is fixed using a sealant, it is better to use one intended for repairing plumbing and walls during wet rooms. If the purpose of the material is damp walls, the use for ceiling repair often leads to a better result.
3. After solidification in the cavity, a lattice is obtained, it will provide a strong fixation of the solution.
4. A mixture of NC solution is prepared, you can use the classic composition, but it is better to add an additive that will improve the setting of the solution. To prevent the cement from falling out, it is supported from below with a piece of plywood.
5. The plywood is fixed from below with a support, it will hold the cement in the required position until it dries.
6. The wooden shield is removed only after solidification, then the finishing is carried out.

The joint between the wall and the ceiling: ways to seal

Characteristic is the presence of not only noticeable defects in the joints between the floor slabs, but also the walls. It will not be possible to qualitatively finish the surface without eliminating cracks.

• construction foam;
• gypsum mortar;
• putty synthetic type;
• putty for outdoor work.

The simplest and effective material- foam, which in the process of solidification expands and fills the voids.

If the joints are quite large, it is worth taking care of further protection against cracking. A reinforcing mesh will help prevent the appearance of cracks, alternative materials - cotton, linen fabrics, which are impregnated in an adhesive solution. Fabrics are laid over the hole. On the final stage a layer of plaster is laid.

What to do if joints are visible on the ceiling: final surface leveling

Regardless of the method of removing defects, it is important to create a quality finish. To level the surface, abrasive mixtures are used.

To create a perfectly smooth and even surface, it is recommended to use interlining. It is glued to the ceiling to the finishing layer of putty. The material helps to eliminate small irregularities.

It is important to cover the ceiling with primer after the final leveling layer, this will help prevent the destruction of the coating and increase the durability of the putty layer. Now you can paint the ceiling, paste over or whitewash.

Construction of the building and creation of an attractive appearance is a complex task that requires taking into account many factors:

• creating a reliable base will prevent cracks at the corners and between floor slabs. Before, it is important to carefully conduct preparatory work: study of soil, study of the level of soil freezing, creation of correct marking and tamping of the surface. provides a service life of up to 150 years only if the laying technology is followed;
• to keep the heat in the room, it is worth eliminating the leakage of heat energy through the floor. One of better ways - ;
• in high-rise buildings it is better to study the plan of floor slabs first, this will help to identify potential vulnerabilities of the structure and eliminate them at the repair stage;
• in the construction of housing, it is better to use composite concrete, it has high technical specifications and absolutely safe for health;

• work with concrete in the cold season with a standard cement composition is unacceptable by the manufacturer, but not all companies are ready to stop construction for the winter. So is it possible to pour concrete in winter? - Yes, but it will require the addition of special mixtures to the composition or electrical heating of concrete;
• if it is planned to build a house from aerated concrete, be sure to reinforce every 2-3 rows. Reinforcement is laid inside block recesses, which are created by a wall chaser for aerated concrete;

Holes of various sizes are amenable to sealing with proper observance of the technology. It is recommended to choose one of existing methods eliminate ceiling defects They are easy to use and durable.

Experienced craftsmen know how to make the junction of tiles and tiles invisible. Of course, if it comes to a straight surface (floor or wall), then there are no problems with joining tiles and tiles. Between them, plastic crosses are usually installed, which determine the width of the seam. After the adhesive has dried, the crosses are removed, and the seam is filled with a fugue. Everything is very simple. The most difficult thing is to join the tiles in the corners.

There are several technologies for joining tiles in the corners where various devices. The simplest option is to install a special tile, which is a corner. True, this element can close the outer corner, for example, the ledge of a column or step.

The process of laying corner tiles is no different from a straight line. She is also placed on adhesive solution, which is applied to two adjacent planes adjacent to one corner of the room. The adhesive composition is leveled with a notched trowel, the tile is laid in place and leveled. Even a novice master can handle this process. It is important here - to accurately set the cladding in planes by placing crosses between the elements.

Using trims

The most popular option for finishing corners is the use of trims. These are special profile inserts that are made of plastic. For outside corners trims are L-shaped profiles, for internal trims it is a profile in the form of a concave arc. Before proceeding to the cladding, it is necessary to glue the profile itself. To do this, you can use liquid nails, sealants or the tile adhesive itself.

It should be noted that the installation of trims is not only an even joint between the tiles, it is a kind of design approach to solving the issue of decorating a room. A good trim, exactly matched to the color of the tile, is an excellent protection for the junction of the cladding elements, it is also decorative element in the interior.

Trimming the edge of a tile

This is probably the most difficult option for exterior finish corners of the room. The thing is that the ends of the two joined tiles are cut at an angle of 45 °. This is not at all easy to do, especially if we are talking about pruning with our own hands.

For this procedure, you can use a grinder, electric tile cutter. The most effective is a tile cutter if its design has an inclined bed. That is, the ceramic material is brought under the cutter at an angle that can be set with the help of inclined stops. It is very difficult to make a cut with a grinder. Here it is necessary firm hand and a sharp eye. But even after that, you will have to work the butt with sandpaper, bring it to maximum accuracy.

The very process of gluing tiles with an undercut is no different from a standard operation. Glue is also applied on which the tile is installed. The main requirement is to precisely join the tiles together so that they create a single whole covering that closes the corner of the room.

Internal corners

Now, as regards internal corners. Everything is clear with trims, special profiles are used here. With an undercut at 45 °, docking can also be done. True, you will have to trim in the opposite direction, that is, with outside on the reverse. It is very important not to spoil front side cladding, which may lead to the impossibility of installing tiles.

There is an old way that masters have always used. To do this, the tiles were joined together so that one of them went under the end of the other. It was not always beautiful, especially if the quality and dimensions of the lining itself left much to be desired. Therefore, such a connection necessarily had to be sealed with grout or sealing was carried out using various kinds of materials.

Attention! If the tiles are joined at the corner between the wall and the floor, then the overlay of one element on the other will depend on the purpose of the room itself. So the bathroom floor ceramic tile should go beyond the wall. This is done with one sole purpose - to prevent the condensate that flows down the walls from penetrating under the floor elements.

All of the above options for joining tiles to each other are not always the quality of the final result. Especially if a beginner is engaged in finishing. Therefore, there are various materials, with which you can hide the defects of the cladding. And then the question arises, what is the best way to close the joint? Basically, standard options two: grout and decorative profile. The second one is better because it completely hides the corner, and hence the defects. At the same time, it is already installed on the finished lining, gluing or liquid nails, or sealant (preferably silicone).

We must pay tribute to manufacturers who are trying to find ways to protect the junction of tiles and baths from leaks. In fact, this is the most dangerous area through which water can penetrate under plumbing fixture where it will gather and become a source of mold and fungi. And getting rid of them will be trumpet.

Options to close this joint.

• If the wall under the bathroom is lined in the same way as the rest of the surface, that is, the device will be pressed against the lining, then it is best to install a special border (plinth) made of plastic or ceramics at the junction. In this case, the joint must be processed before installing the curb silicone sealant. A plastic border is also planted on it. Ceramic is usually laid on adhesive composition, which glued the tiles to the wall.
• It is possible to seal the joint with a sealant if the gap is not very large, no more than 1 cm. If this value is 1-3 cm, then the gap will first have to be filled with mounting foam.

Attention! For these purposes, it is better to use the so-called sanitary sealant. It will not form colonies of microorganisms (mold and fungi).

It should be noted that the sealant is very sensitive to unclean surfaces, it does not adhere well to them. Therefore, before applying it, the surface of the tile and bathtub must be cleaned with a detergent, and then degreased with a solvent or alcohol. At the same time, so that the sealant itself does not leave its mark on the ceramic surfaces, which cannot be removed by anything, it is recommended to glue adhesive tape to the joint, the middle of which must be cut along the joint. And that is where the sealing material should be directed. After that, the adhesive tape is removed, and the joint surface is smoothed with a brush dipped in soapy water. A tiled joint sealed in this way is reliable in terms of complete tightness.