How to hammer a pipe under a well quickly. Methods for driving fence posts

Hello dear readers. Let's start the story about the organization of water supply suburban area using a well-needle device or an Abyssinian well. This kind of wells is usually done by hand, since special equipment for well construction is not required.

This article is the quintessence personal experience the author and hundreds of pages studied on specialized forums and is not a theoretical material, but a practical guide. As they say, clever man able to learn from the mistakes of others.

What you need to build an Abyssinian well

So, let's begin. Let's talk about classical scheme mounting wells needles: hammering into the ground.

To clog the Abyssinian well, we will definitely need:

• needle filter
• threaded pipe kit
• pipe couplings
• sanitary linen and paste for use in threaded connections
• two pipe plumbing wrenches
• well pump
• the tool that will be used for clogging (we will discuss the options below)

Additional equipment you may need:

• Pipe die or threading die (if the thread deteriorates when driving)
• Two hydraulic jacks if needed to lift the well pipe string

Before proceeding to the presentation of personal experience, let us recall the basic principles of the Abyssinian well.

The diameter of the well is small - usually from one to two inches. This diameter does not allow the pump to be lowered into the well, and water is pumped out by surface pumps - first when pumping manual column, then, after pumping the well, you can switch to an electric pump, which must be self-priming.

It is possible to raise water from the Abyssinian well only if the water surface is no deeper than 9 meters. If the dynamic level of the well is below eight to nine meters from the level of the pump, it will be possible to raise such water only by placing the pump in a caisson (pit), thus reducing the suction depth to the desired value. It should be borne in mind that only the highest quality self-priming pump can show the passport 9 meters of suction.

It is important to ensure the complete tightness of the line from the filter sucking water through the pump - if at least one coupling forms a fistula during clogging, water will not be sucked in from the depth.

A needle well is a pipe of small diameter, usually with an outer diameter of 1 inch (in the construction markets and metal depots it is marked as a 25 pipe - by inner diameter) and 1 ¼ inches. The fact is that a column - a well will be hammered into the ground without any drilling, and it can be extremely difficult to hammer a pipe of a larger diameter.

How the well-needle filter works

The very first and important element wells-needles - filter. It is made as follows: a section of a pancake pipe 1.2-2 meters is taken, a meter section is marked for the future filter. On this segment, holes with a diameter of about 8-10 mm are drilled in a checkerboard pattern so as not to weaken the pipe. At the end of the pipe near the filter, a steel cone is welded, which will facilitate the passage of the pipe in the ground according to the spear principle.

The next step is to rewind under the filter. The task of the winder is to create a gap between the pipe and the filter mesh, which is mounted on top of the winder. Without winding, the suction of water into each hole of the filter pipe would be carried out only through the section of the grid directly above the hole. With winding, water will be sucked from a much larger mesh surface into the created gap, and then into the holes on the pipe. Thus, by winding up, we significantly increase the flow rate of the well. The winding is usually made of wire of the same material as the filter mesh - for example, stainless steel to stainless steel, in order to avoid the formation of a galvanic couple. To help you when choosing - metal compatibility table:

When assembling the filter, pay attention Special attention on the compatibility of metals: some of them create a galvanic couple, and when in contact as a result chemical reaction are quickly destroyed. For example, by winding aluminum wire onto a pipe, and fixing a brass mesh on top, in a few months you will get holes at the points where these incompatible metals touch. Therefore, in most cases, wire and mesh are taken from stainless steel, because. these materials are easy to obtain.

How to choose a mesh for an Abyssinian well filter

The mesh for the needle hole needs a special one - galloon weaving. In appearance, such a grid is like a metal fabric. Galloon weaving implies diamond-shaped cells - they are not clogged with grains of sand, which are basically cube-shaped. Exist different kinds filter meshes, with different size cells - for different sands. Ideally, the mesh should be selected knowing the fraction of sand in the aquifer. The filter should pass about 30-40% of the sand. Then, when pumping the well, fine sand fractions will come out with water, while larger ones form natural filter around our needle.

Filtration meshes are metal and synthetic. The most fine-grained metal mesh are marked P60 and are designed for silty sand. Synthetic nets are even finer weave - up to P200. At the same time, it is not recommended to take the smallest grid "with a margin" - the finer the grid, the worse the well flow rate will be. The smallest sand under the pressure of water is compressed around the needle filter, preventing the movement of water.

The pipe is cut into pieces of 1-1.5 meters, an external thread is cut at the ends. Pipes will be connected by couplings of the appropriate diameter. Short pieces of pipe are needed in order to make it more convenient to hammer it into the ground.

What tool is used to hammer the needle of the Abyssinian well?

Sledgehammer

The easiest and most barbaric way to hammer a needle is with a sledgehammer. If you have experience with careful handling of this mighty tool, perhaps everything will end well and no threaded connection will crack underground. pros this method- the sledgehammer is easy to find, no need to bother with special equipment for hammering. Cons - when hitting with a sledgehammer, it is impossible to direct all the impact energy down, strictly along the axis of the borehole needle. This means that the pipe will bend to the side, flattening. The load on threaded connections increases. If you decide to hammer the needle with a sledgehammer, do not hit the piece of pipe that you plant in the ground. Screw a steel sleeve onto the pipe and use a piece of threaded pipe to screw it into the sleeve. Such pipe ends are sold in hardware stores under the name "thread" and cost a penny. Flattened one - replaced and continued to score further.

Grandmother and underwear

Blocking with a grandmother is the preferred way to get sick. The design of the headstock may be different. Most often it is a thick-walled pipe, one of the ends of which is welded. Handles are welded to it on the side, any iron can be welded for weighting. The weight of the headstock is usually 20-50 kg. On the upper end of the clogged pipe, a “snubber” is also attached through the coupling - a piece of pipe with a thread, along which the blow will fall. The headstock in this design is put on a clogged pipe, and then rises 40-60 cm and rushes down. Since the headstock is completely dressed on the pipe being driven, it moves almost perfectly up and down, and all the impact energy propels the needle to the target.

There is another version of the headstock design. This is a heavy cylinder with a hole not much larger diameter clogged needle. A sleeve is screwed onto the pipe to be driven, and the next pipe of the same type is screwed into it. This pipe, when clogged, will be the guide for the headstock to move up and down. And it will hit the bodice - a steel cylinder, tightly dressed on the needle tube, and abutting against the sleeve, which has a diameter several mm larger than the needle. Grandmother rises and throws herself down on the underdress. That, in turn, pushes the pipe string down.

Note very important fact- in order not to damage the threads on the pipes and couplings, it is necessary to choose the length of the threads on the pipes in such a way that the pipes, screwed into the coupling, dock inside it. Thus, the load from headstock impacts will not be on the thread, but on the ends of the pipes.

Rod

Hammering a needle with a rod is also very common. The rod is needed so thick that it freely enters the pipe of the Abyssinian well. We will beat with a rod along the lower part of the lowered pipe string - in the opposite part of the cone that crowns the filter. The cone must be firmly welded to the filter pipe. Gradually, in the course of lowering the column, it is possible to lengthen the bar (by welding, or by foreseeing the connection of the bars on the thread). If the mass of the bar is sufficient for impacts, and its length is already less than the lowered column, you can tie a steel cable to it and hammer the needle by lifting the bar inside the pipe string by this cable and throwing it from a height. Driving with a bar is considered more preferable in terms of safety threaded connections pipes.

Clogging the needle hole with a perforator or jackhammer

Unfortunately, you cannot simplify your task by using a power tool. The reason for this is the large mass of the lowered column of pipes. The hammer and chipper will simply bounce off the larger structure. This fact has been proven many times, do not waste time.

To what level should the needle be hammered?

The needle is driven deep until the filter is in the aquifer. Ideally, this is coarse sand or pebbles, but usually the water carrier is fine sand. As we mentioned earlier, water from a well can only be raised from a depth of 8-9 meters. Does this mean that drilling a well deeper than 9 meters is pointless? Of course not. It is not the depth of the well that matters, but the water level in it. Experienced drillers know that second water aquifer often rises to the GWL level (level ground water). It even happens that from a depth of a well of 15-30 meters, water flows by itself.

The second question when clogging the needle is how not to miss the aquifer? There is an easy way. Every half a meter, when hammering into the pipe, the needles are poured with water. If the filter is in the aquifer, the water will quickly go into the pipe. The main thing here is that when passing through a layer of clay, the mesh does not become clogged with it. Otherwise, you simply will not understand that you are in the aquifer. Through the mesh clogged with clay, water will not leave in any case.

There is another way to determine which layer the needle filter is in. When you hammer the needle, the top tube must be constantly tightened with a pipe wrench clockwise every 10-20 strokes. By this we compensate for the self-loosening of the threaded connections of the column. If it is possible to rotate the column completely so that the filter moves in the soil, it is easy to hear the friction of the soil against the filter cone.

So, when turning the filter, clay practically does not make a sound, coarse sand distinctly creaks, pebbles grind.

What to do if the filter mesh is clogged with clay or the pipe is clogged with sand when clogged

If the filter mesh of the Abyssinian well is clogged with clay, you can clean the filter mesh by supplying pressurized water to the pipe. She will wash the clay. If flushing does not help, you will have to get the entire column and clean it. Then a clean needle can be lowered into the finished hole without the risk of contamination of the filter.

It also often happens that if the filter mesh is chosen too large, or the pipe is used without a filter at all (some soils allow the use of an Abyssinian without a filter mesh if the aquifer is pebbles or very coarse sand). If the pipe is clogged with sand from the inside, it should be flushed by lowering a narrow hose into the pipe, supplying water to it from the outside of the well and moving it so as to raise the turbidity from the sand in the pipe. This turbidity will come out of the pipe around the hose, washing out the sand as well.

How to prevent clogging of the pipe with sand and clay when driving an Abyssinian well

There are a couple of ways to avoid filling the needle with sand and clay. The needle can be filled with salt for the time of clogging or tightly stuffed with a rope. The end of the rope must be constantly passed through all the pipes, so that after driving to the desired depth, you can simply get it. Naturally, these two methods are only suitable if there are several Abyssinian wells nearby and the depth to which the needle needs to be hammered is known in advance.

How to pump a well with a needle?

Best for pumping hand pump-column. Such pumps are not afraid of the content of sand in the water, and at first there will be a lot of sand inclusions in the water. Depending on how the grid used fits the sand fraction in the aquifer, the time of well buildup can be from half an hour to several months. At the same time, we repeat once again, too fine a grid will clog faster and reduce the flow rate.

In principle, when using a sufficiently fine mesh of galloon (twill) weaving, it is quite possible to use a self-priming pump for pumping surface pump. It is desirable that the impeller be metal, because. plastic is quickly ground off by sand.

The hand pump is also good because it easily copes with the initial small flow rate of the well. An electric pump cannot work if the water supply is poor, the water column in the Abyssinian well breaks, and the pump stops working. The situation can be partially corrected by placing a tap at the outlet of the pump, and strangling the water outlet.

For easy start of the pump, a check valve. In no case do not put a check valve at the bottom of the column, it will quickly become clogged, and it will be impossible to replace it without raising the well string. In this case, the “extra” check valve will create additional resistance when the liquid moves and “hide” the meter of the potential suction head of the pump.

What to do if the compounds poison the air, i.e. no column tightness?

It is not so rare that after clogging the column, it turns out that the water is not pumped out, despite the fact that it is not far from the water table. If a working self-priming pump is used, this means that there is air leakage in the line, which does not allow creating a vacuum inside the pipe and raising water. In this case, it is recommended to raise the pipe string (the method is described below) and seal the connections. If this is not possible, you can use the design of the "imperfect well". Inside the Abyssinian well, a pipe of a smaller diameter is lowered, and water is sucked out through it. The problem is that since no vacuum is created in the pipe when the water is pumped out, the water enters the filter by gravity rather than being sucked in. Because of this, the flow rate of the well drops sharply.

How to raise the pipes of the Abyssinian well from the ground

It happens that you need to raise a column of pipes if you skipped the aquifer, or you need to completely remove the well. This can be difficult to do, because the soil tightly wraps around the pipes. To fix the pipe, you can use a specially made vice, which is two strong steel plates, pulled together with bolts. You can simply put a bodice or a washer of a suitable size on a pipe sticking out of the ground, fix its movement upwards with a coupling wound along the thread, and evenly pull upwards with two jacks installed on both sides of the well. IN clay soils you can use the following technique: strongly tighten the pipe string upwards, even if it does not move, and leave it overnight: under tension, the clay gradually partes and releases the pipes.

If it is possible to apply good water pressure to the well, this can also help, to the point that the water will wash away the soil around the well pipe and will flow to the surface outside the pipe.

This article will be developed and supplemented. Please write your ideas and suggestions in the comments.

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Water on the site on their own

The driven well is quite common today. As wells become fewer and water is vital required product, then for private houses it is better to have your own well or two. One well is usually arranged inside the house, and the other - outside it, it is possible on the street near the bathhouse. Wells will provide constant water inside the house and for everything personal plot and backup water supply. For such work, knowledge will be required on how to hammer a pipe for a well correctly.

Before hammering a pipe for a well, it is advisable to find out from neighbors nearby the depth of the water mirror, take a closer look and get acquainted with nearby wells.

A driven well is quite convenient, if only because its construction is carried out in almost one day, of course, if all the components necessary for it are available. The cost of construction work is not very high, and the process itself is quite simple, so if the aquifer is good enough, then this is the most the best option water supply of a residential building. Before the main work, you can start preparatory work already with winter period. Before clogging a pipe for a well, it is advisable to find out from neighbors nearby the depth of the water mirror, take a closer look and get acquainted with nearby wells.

What is needed for a well

• first you need to purchase pipes that would have about 15 m in length. most important part a tubular well is considered an intake - a filter, which is made of the same material. as the components of the whole structure;

The length of the intake is determined by the aquifer. If the vein for getting water is good, then the intake can have a length of 0.5 m, and its largest length can be 1.5 m.

• the intake cone is made by a turner. It is either welded to the intake, or put on a thread. Numerous holes must be drilled along the entire length of the pipe, the diameter of which should be about 80-100 mm;
• holes are drilled in a checkerboard pattern. Then such a pipe is wrapped with a mesh and soldered along the edge with tin solder. The intake mesh is a completely different matter. A good mesh can hold a small puddle of water on it and still keep it from flowing freely and easily. Non-ferrous metal mesh is not suitable, as it is most likely to corrode;
• Today, more and more often construction work they use stainless self-tapping screws with large caps, which are even very suitable for attaching the mesh to self-tapping screws. For fastening, you need to drill holes of a couple of millimeters along the entire length of the intake pipe.

Extension pipes are cut into pieces 0.5 and 1.5 m long, depending on the type of soil.

When the winding is carried out with a mesh, it must be pressed with a stainless steel tape with self-tapping screws along the entire length of the pipe, using a screwdriver for this, and then cut off. Winding the mesh with wire will not bring any sense, because if the intake is hooked in the ground for something strong and resistant, the wire will not help and the mesh will still break.

• extension pipes are cut into pieces 0.5 and 1.5 m long, depending on the type of soil. If the soil is not very hard, but plastic and the pipes enter the ground easily, you can make them a little longer. Couplings for connection are made only of steel, so that they hold tightly and do not burst during operation, they are made into half of the coupling. Couplings are most often installed on linen with paint.

We start drilling a well

• Earth drilling is carried out with an ordinary fishing drill, in which the handle is only remade in such a way that it is possible to attach extension knees to it and replace the brace with a T-shaped handle.

Drilling a well will require two people, since it will be necessary to remove the drill from the ground, and this work is quite difficult for one person.

Land drilling is carried out with an ordinary fishing drill.

If, as a result of drilling, quicksands are found, then work is stopped. A pre-prepared pipe with an intake is lowered into the well and a mallet is taken.

The beater looks like an ordinary chock, which on both sides has clogged metal brackets in vertical position. Clogging of the pipe can be carried out by one person, or it can be done by two. If the pipe is too high, then we will hammer it using a stepladder.

The intake into the aquifer must be hammered with uniform blows on the pipe. Water is tested by pouring liquid into the well. If it does not linger, but immediately leaves, you can get water at the drilling site.

Pump connection and water analysis

A hand pump for pumping water is attached to the intake using a rubber hose with clamps.

• Further, with the help of a rubber hose with clamps, a hand pump is attached and the water is pumped out. With the help of a hand pump, raising water from a well is quite easy and simple. If the water appears clean and tasty, without the formation of a film and precipitation, then. it is of good quality.

It is possible to determine the quality and quality factor of water by analyzing it in a special laboratory. If you don't like the quality, you can continue driving the pipe to a greater depth, checking from time to time if there is an aquifer. It is possible to hammer the well to the stop no deeper than 15 meters.

If the water table is at a level below 9 m, then it cannot be pumped out. Of course, you can lower the pump a few meters, first dig a pit, or simply make a well and install a water pumping station.

If water is not found or it Bad quality, then the pipes are removed. If you have difficulty lifting them, use a jack.

Well preparation for operation

If the well is used only in summer period, it is desirable to remove the valve for the winter - then the pillar water will fall to the normal level and no freezing will occur.

If as a result you find good water, you can begin to prepare the well for operation. The height of the pipe is leveled above ground level for easy connection. Sometimes they change the last knee to another of the required length, or simply saw off the excess part and cut a thread on it. The thread is necessary to be able to install the valve and further connect the hose.

The valve is a rather complex device, so it can often break or fail. To prevent this from happening, the valve is installed at the top in front of the pump. With it, the pole is supported, and in which case it can be easily replaced. If the well is used only in the summer, it is advisable to remove the valve for the winter - then the water column will fall to the usual level and no freezing will occur. In the spring, the valve is put in its original place and the water is raised.

If the well is used in winter, then the valve can also be removed, and put on during use, only then you need to make sure that no water is left in the pump. Next, you need to connect a water pumping station or an electric pump through a pipe or hose. To do this, use a hose high pressure, since there is a vacuum in this place and it can be flattened. Sometimes a driven well is made on the street, a pipe is attached to it, and it, in turn, is led into the basement of the house where the water pumping station is installed.

Water pumping stations operate with a steady column and when the entire system is filled with water. Therefore, at first, a manual vacuum pump is used to raise the water. It is connected separately through a special valve, which is located in front of the water pumping station. When the water rises to the required level and the receiver is filled, the system will start automatically. There will always be a column of liquid in the pipe.

Well and pipe cleaning

You can also clean the well with the help of a special device called a bailer.

Often, during long-term operation of a driven well, the flow of water slows down significantly. This happens as a result of clogging and clogging of the collection grid. Then it is necessary to pull the pipes out of the well and clean or replace them with new ones, you can simply change the grid of the collector or the collector as a whole.

There are times when the water in the well disappears completely. This happens sometimes for natural reasons, and sometimes for man-made. Then it is necessary to carry out deeper drilling and arrange a well with casing pipe.

New technologies driven wells

Today, quite interesting driven wells have appeared, such as disposable ones. For their arrangement, a metal-plastic pipe is used. To drive it into the ground, a composite rod is required, which is reusable.

The intake, like in conventional driven wells, only inside it is made a recess of a conical shape, which is designed to support the driving rod. Attached to the intake through a coupling from metal-plastic pipe knee and lowered into the drilled well.

Inside the pipe there is a driving rod, which strongly abuts against the recesses of the conical intake. An anvil is wound onto a steel rod and an intake is hammered through this rod. Having reached the aquifer, the rod is removed from the pipe, and the pipe is connected to the pump.

An equipped water well is an autonomous and reliable source of water supply for a summer house or a private house.

The organization of individual water supply is not always caused by the lack of a centralized water supply, the reason may be the poor quality of water in the main, interruptions in supply, the deterioration of the water canal network, the high cost of water, its shortage, and other factors.

Almost all owners of dachas or country cottages have an autonomous source of water. Another thing is that their choice may differ. Someone prefers a well, someone likes a well.

By the way, it will be useful to know comparative characteristics – .

This article is for those who opted for a well.

It should be noted that wells are divided into two types depending on the depth of drilling.

Types of wells for water

Since do-it-yourself drilling is supposed, we will consider in more detail the arrangement of wells for sand, as the most accessible in terms of independent implementation.

Drilling a well for water - step by step instructions

1. Depth determination

• shallow (up to 3 m) well breaks through if the aquifer is close to the ground surface, and the water is supposed to be used only for technical needs or irrigation. To drill such a well, a drill, a casing pipe and a hand pump are sufficient;

• medium deep (up to 7 m) well provide water suitable for human consumption. In order to drill a well on your own, in addition to the drill, you will need a shovel and time to build a pit. A pit (pit) with dimensions of 1.5x1.5x1.5 is designed to facilitate drilling to great depths. For convenience, it can be reinforced with plywood or boards. After completion of work, the pit falls asleep. Water is supplied by a pump;

• deep (more than 7 m) well, will completely close the need for water for all residents of a private house or cottage. At the same time, there will be enough water not only for individual consumption, but also for technical needs, sanitary requirements, watering, maintaining a pool or pond (reservoir).

In general, the choice of the type of water intake is determined after a geological study of the location of the well organization. We propose to consider the last option - the device of a deep well with your own hands, as the most difficult of those presented.

2. Well drilling methods

The listed types of wells (this does not apply to artesian or lime wells) can be drilled using the following methods (technologies):

Auger drilling using an auger drill.

The photo shows a small-sized drilling rig MGB50P-02S with a movable hydraulic rotator manufactured by Horizontal.

3. Water well drilling project

In the event that the depth of the aquifer is known exactly, it can be drilled directly with the size of the drill for the casing. If not, you will first need to find out at what depth the aquifer lies.

Thus, any well is an individual project, which is influenced by the following parameters:

• geological structure of the soil;

• selected drilling method;

• requirements that are put forward to the quantity and quality of water;

• the requirement to maintain the necessary distances to the places of pollution (arrangement of the "sanitary zone");

• depth of the aquifer. Moreover, this does not mean the first vein to which the drill has reached, but the one that will meet the conditions of use in terms of ensuring the debit of the well.

4. Water well drilling tools

Since the shock-rope method of manual drilling is described, its advantages should be noted:

• preservation of most of the useful soil layer in its original state. Those. heavy equipment will not damage the plantings on the site;

• no restrictions on the place of drilling. A hand drill can be drilled in almost any part of the site;

• simplicity of equipment and minimum requirements for the qualification of the driller.

For work you will need:

• shovel;

• drill with a reinforced cutting part. Tip: you can strengthen the drill by welding cutters onto the screw, the role of which can be played by file elements or a metal shank. In addition, cutters can be sharpened using a grinder;

• trolley for the removal of excavated soil;

• pump type "baby" with a hose;

• container with water.

Suitable for furnishing:

• crushed stone or gravel for a pillow;
• steel wire for the filter;
• pipes;
• wire for arranging a bottom filter.

5. Choice of location and arrangement of the pit

With the help of hired specialists or folk methods (dowsing, barometric method, using silica gel, by the amount of dew, exploratory drilling, etc.), we determine the place where the aquifer is closest to the surface.

Next, we dig a hole. This is the development of soil of a certain depth, the purpose of which is to facilitate the process of drilling a well.

Pit arrangement milestone for two reasons.

Firstly, the depth of drilling with a drill is reduced.

Secondly, the possibility of soil collapse around the well is excluded.

The dimensions of the pit are determined by the driller, but usually they are 1.5x1.5 and 1.5-2.5m. in depth. So that the soil does not sprinkle, the pit is reinforced with plywood, boards or metal.

6. First method: tripod - drilling rig

A tripod is a percussion-cable mechanism for drilling water wells. The support structure will be needed in order to facilitate the drilling process through the use of a drill glass.

Such a drilling rig is compact and has a significant margin of safety. The principle of operation of the installation is simple: a glass falling into the ground absorbs the soil. Depending on the composition of the soil in one stroke, you can select from 20 cm to 1 m of soil. To facilitate the work, you can fill the drilling site with water. From time to time, the drill glass must be cleaned of soil stuffed into it.

Attention: The cable on which the drill is attached must be longer than the depth of the well. Otherwise, it will break off, and the drill will remain at the bottom.

The casing pipe can be installed simultaneously with the advance to the depth or after all the work has been completed.

7. The second method - casing and drill

During the drilling process, you can immediately install the casing. Then its diameter must be greater than the diameter of the drill, so that the drill can move freely in the pipe.

When performing work, you need to constantly monitor the moisture content of the soil being removed so as not to miss the aquifer (otherwise it can be closed with a pipe). The main features are below.

Material prepared for the site site

If after pumping out 2-3 buckets muddy water, clean still has not appeared, drilling should continue to a more capacious layer.

Important: the pump is not designed for such operating conditions, so after water treatment it may break. It is recommended to use only a high-quality pump.

8. Well casing

Steel or plastic pipes can be used for casing (service life up to 50 years). But the use of galvanized pipes is not recommended, due to the risk of water contamination with zinc impurities.

The meaning of the upset is as follows:

• prevention of shedding of the walls of the well;

• prevention of well silting;

• elimination of the possibility for perched water to enter the well (water from the upper layers, melt or rain water);

• eliminating the risk of clogging the well.

The installation of the casing pipe is carried out immediately after the completion of work or directly during the drilling process.

Tip: if the pipes go "creaking" you need to attach a sledgehammer to them.

9. Flushing the well with water after drilling

The installation of a casing pipe does not end there. Now you need to flush the well. To do this, a pipe is lowered into it, through which water is supplied under pressure. Thanks to the pressure of water, a layer of clay and sand will be washed out of the well, which must be pumped out. After the appearance clean water it needs to be analyzed. Requirements for the quality of water from a well are regulated by SanPiN 2.1.4.1074-01 (Russia) or DSanPіN 2.2.4-171-10 (Ukraine). If the water quality is satisfactory, work can continue.

10. Bottom filter for sand well

The purpose of the filter is to protect the pipe from silting.

How to make a filter for a well?

You can make a slotted filter with your own hands, for this you need to make notches (cuts) with a grinder at the end of the pipe.

Tip: for notches, you need to use a thin disk (0.8mm). Pay attention - many notches will weaken the pipe.

by the most simple option there will be a purchase of a ready-made filter.

Important: without a filter, the well will not work for long. Its absence is justified only in deep water wells (more than 40 m)

11. Well debit for water

To get a complete picture of the capacity of the well for sand, you need to wait a day, and then check the level of incoming water. If the incoming water is sufficient for the needs of users, the distance between the soil and the casing can be filled. The pit is also buried.

12. The buildup of a well for water after drilling

This is a required step. To perform the buildup or simply the final cleaning of the well, you need to install centrifugal pump high power and periodically pump out water for 1.5-2 weeks.

Tip: You should decide in advance where the pumped water will be redirected.

13. Drilling a water well with your own hands - video

Manual technology using the shock-rope method of hole punching.

14. Installing a pump for a well for water

Please note that surface-type pumps are not intended for installation in a well. Due to the depth limitation of 8 m. For these purposes, only submersible pump- centrifugal or vibration. Each of the subspecies has its own advantages, and the final choice can be made by analyzing the influence of such factors as:

• well depth;
• water level in the well;
• casing diameter;
• well debit;
• water pressure in the well;
• well pump cost.

15. Putting the well into operation

If drilling a well under water was not carried out independently, but with the involvement of a third-party organization, then before accepting work, you need to require the following documents:

• hydrogeological conclusion on the possibility of implementing a water well project;

• well passport;

• permission of the sanitary and epidemiological station (checks the quality of water and the compliance of the sanitary zone with the requirements);

• certificate of completion.

If all the work will be carried out independently, then the main thing is not to rush, but to withstand the technology and observe all the key points in the process of drilling a well for water. However, do not forget that only the use quality materials(in particular, pipes and a pump) will be the key to the long-term functioning of the well.

Any homestead, whether country cottage or a private house must be provided with water. Without life-giving moisture, they cannot grow, pleasing to the eye. exuberant bloom, and fully bear fruit no cultivated plants. Do-it-yourself water well, despite the seeming grandiosity of the process, is quite real opportunity water extraction, which can be carried out independently without the use of heavy drilling equipment. There are several drilling methods that are quite simple to perform and do not involve the use of expensive equipment and considerable effort.

Water can be extracted by using different technologies. The main types of water wells used for the extraction of life-giving moisture:

• Arrangement of a well, which, in the presence of a good spring, quickly fills up and, being an excellent reservoir of water, can hold up to 2 cubic meters of water;
• Filter well for sand, which is a pipe d = 100 mm, immersed with an auger to a depth of 20-30 meters. At the buried end of the pipe, a stainless steel mesh is fixed, which acts as a filter, being immersed in coarse sand. The depth of the well is 10-50 meters, the service life is 5-15 years.
• A non-filtered artesian well used to extract water from porous limestone formations. The depth of the well is 20-100 meters, the service life is about 50 years.

The exact depth of a water well cannot be determined in advance. Tentatively, this will be the depth, as with a similar well drilled in neighboring areas, or a well located nearby. Since deviations are possible due to the uneven occurrence of soil layers, casing pipes should be purchased based on the parameters of the water supply sources already equipped on the site, but with a slight adjustment.

The design of the well for water is a kind of narrow well

The service life of wells directly depends on the intensity of use: the more often a structure is used, the longer it will last.

Drilling a well by hand

To perform the work, the drill itself, the drilling derrick, the winch, rods and casing pipes are required. The drilling tower is necessary when digging a deep well, with the help of this design, the drill with rods is immersed and lifted.

The easiest way to drill a water well is rotary, which is done by rotating the drill

When drilling shallow wells, the drill string can be removed manually, without the use of a derrick at all. Drill rods can be made of pipes, products are connected with dowels or threads. The lowermost rod is additionally equipped with a drill.

The cutting attachments are made from 3 mm sheet steel. When sharpening the edges of the nozzles, it should be noted that when the drill mechanism is rotated, they must cut into the soil clockwise.

The drilling technology, familiar to most owners of household plots, is also applicable for arranging a well under water

The tower is installed above the drilling site, its height must exceed the height of the drill rod in order to facilitate the removal of the rod when lifting. Then, a guide recess for the drill is dug on two bayonets of the shovel. The first turns of rotation of the drill can be performed by one person, but as the pipe sinks, it will be necessary extra help. If the drill does not come out the first time, turn it counterclockwise and try again.

As the drill goes deeper, the rotation of the pipe becomes more difficult. Softening the soil with water will help facilitate the work. In the course of moving the drill down every half meter, the drilling structure should be brought to the surface and freed from the soil. The drilling cycle is repeated again. At the stage when the tool handle is level with the ground, the structure is built up with an additional knee.

Since it takes a significant part of the time to lift and clean the drill, you should make the most of the design, capturing and extracting the maximum possible portion of the soil layer to the surface.

When working on loose soils, casing pipes should be additionally installed in the well, which prevent soil from shedding from the walls of the hole and blocking the well

Drilling continues until it enters the aquifer, which is easily determined by the state of the excavated land. Passing the aquifer, the drill plunges even deeper until it reaches the next aquifer - the water-resistant layer. Immersion to the level of the water-resistant layer will ensure the maximum inflow of water into the well. It is important to note that manual drilling is applicable only for diving to the first aquifer, the depth of which does not exceed 10-20 meters.

To pump out dirty water, you can use a hand pump or a submersible pump. After two or three buckets of dirty water, the aquifer is washed and clean water usually appears. If this does not happen, the well should be deepened by another 1-2 meters.

You can also apply manual way drilling, based on the use of a conventional drill and a hydraulic pump:

Learn more about hand drilling.

Rope percussion technology

The essence of this method, how to make a water well with your own hands, is that the rock is broken using a driving glass - a heavy tool falling from the height of an equipped tower.

To perform the work, a home-made drilling rig is required, as well as tools for using the shock-rope method and extracting soil from the well.

The well tower, which looks like an ordinary tripod, can be made of both steel pipes and ordinary wooden logs. The dimensions of the structure must be proportional to the dimensions of the downhole tool.

The optimal ratio is the height of the tower, which exceeds the length of the bottomhole glass by one and a half meters

The process consists in alternately lowering the driving glass, which breaks and captures the rock, and lifting to the surface with the trapped drilling tool blade.

To equip the drilling rig, you can use a steel pipe, the end of which is equipped with cutting device. Cutting edge reminiscent of appearance half a turn of the auger, will be in direct contact with the bottom. Half a meter from the edge steel pipe a hole must be made through which the mined soil can be removed by emptying the drill glass. A cable is attached to the top of the glass, with the help of which the glass will be lowered and its contents will be retrieved to the surface. The glass should be freed from the ground as the structure is deepened for every half meter.

Here is a video example of exploration drilling in this way:

The nuances of installing casing pipes

A do-it-yourself dug well under water requires additional casing, which can be made both from a single asbestos-cement pipe, and from individual cuts of asbestos pipes. When working with cuts, special attention is paid to the equal diameter of the pipes in order to ensure subsequent unhindered immersion of the entire structure. Each pipe link is kept from slipping and secured with staples, which are then hidden under stainless steel strips.

A do-it-yourself water well can also be “cased” with steel or plastic pipes

"Casting" of the pipe is necessary:

• to prevent shedding of the walls during drilling;
• to prevent clogging of the well during operation;
• to cover the upper aquifers with bad water.

A pipe is lowered to the bottom of the well with a filter made of a fine mesh that does not allow grains of sand to pass through and provides water filtration. The pipe lowered to the required depth is fixed with a clamp. This will prevent spontaneous subsidence.

With a competent arrangement of a well for water, the above-ground part of the structure is covered with a caisson - a head that protects the source from pollution.

The head is a tank with a closing hatch with a hole diameter that allows you to freely access the water well

Over time, the effect of a slight "squeezing" of the pipe out of the soil can be observed. The natural process of spontaneous lifting of the pipe to the soil surface does not require additional deepening measures.

Video example of well construction

An equipped water well is an autonomous and reliable source of water supply for a summer house or a private house.

The organization of individual water supply is not always caused by the lack of a centralized water supply, the reason may be the poor quality of water in the main, interruptions in supply, the deterioration of the water canal network, the high cost of water, its shortage, and other factors.

Almost all owners of dachas or country cottages have an autonomous source of water.
Another thing is that their choice may differ. Someone prefers the well
someone likes a well.

By the way, it will be useful to get acquainted with the comparative characteristics - which is better, a well or a well for water supply to a private house.

This article is for those who opted for a well.

It should be noted that wells are divided into two types depending on the depth of drilling.

Types of wells for water

Since do-it-yourself drilling is supposed, consider
in more detail the device of wells for sand, as the most accessible in terms of
independent implementation.

Drilling a well for water - step by step instructions

1. Depth determination

• shallow (up to 3 m) well breaks in the case
  if the aquifer is close to the ground surface, and the water
  intended to be used only for technical needs or irrigation. For drilling
  such a well is sufficient with a drill, a casing pipe and a hand pump;

• medium deep (up to 7 m) well will enable you to get
  water fit for human consumption. To drill on my own
  well, in addition to the drill, you will need a shovel and time to build a pit. Pit (pit)
  with dimensions of 1.5x1.5x1.5 is designed to facilitate drilling to a large
  depth. For convenience, it can be reinforced with plywood or boards. After
  completion of work, the pit falls asleep. Water is supplied by a pump;

• deep (more than 7 m) well, will completely close
  the need for water of all residents of a private house or cottage. At the same time, water
  will be sufficient not only for individual consumption, but also for
  technical needs, sanitary requirements, irrigation, maintenance of a pool or pond
  (reservoir).

In general, the choice of the type of water intake is determined after
geological survey of the location of the organization of the well. We propose to consider
the last option is a do-it-yourself deep well device, as the most
the most complex one presented.

A detailed description of the principles of organizing the water supply of a private house from a well

2. Well drilling methods

The listed types of wells (to artesian or wells "on
lime” does not apply) can be drilled using the following methods (technologies):

Auger drilling of a well for water Auger drilling using an auger drill.

Core drilling of a well for water Core drilling (an annular drill is used).
Percussion drilling of a well for water Percussion drilling. In this case, a drill bit is used, which is driven into the soil without excavation. The soil is simply compacted away from the axis of the bit. The chisel is hammered using a tripod with
winch.
Rotary percussion water well drilling Percussion rotary drilling. The work of the drill is supplemented by washing out the soil with water. The method is laborious for individual use.
Rotary water well drilling Rotary drilling (provided by a mobile drilling rig).

The photo shows a small-sized drilling rig MGB50P-02S with a movable hydraulic rotator manufactured by Horizontal.

3. Water well drilling project

If the exact depth is known
aquifer can be drilled directly with the size of the casing drill
pipe. If not, you will first need to find out at what depth lies
aquifer.

Thus, any well is an individual project,
which is affected by the following parameters:

• geological structure of the soil;

• selected drilling method;

• requirements that are put forward to the quantity and quality of water;

• the requirement to maintain the necessary distances to the places of pollution (arrangement of the "sanitary zone");

• depth of the aquifer. Moreover, this does not mean the first vein to which the drill has reached, but the one that will meet the conditions of use in terms of ensuring the debit of the well.

4. Water well drilling tools

Since the shock-rope method of manual drilling is described, its advantages should be noted:

• preservation of most of the useful soil layer in the original
  condition. Those. heavy equipment will not damage the plantings on the site;

• no restrictions on the place of drilling. You can use a hand drill
  drilling in almost any part of the site;

• simplicity of equipment and minimum requirements for the qualification of the driller.

For work you will need:

• shovel;

• drill with a reinforced cutting part. Tip: you can strengthen the drill
  by welding cutters onto the screw, the role of which can be played by file elements
  or a metal bar. In addition, cutters can be sharpened using a grinder;

• trolley for the removal of excavated soil;

• pump type "baby" with a hose;

• container with water.

Suitable for furnishing:

• crushed stone or gravel for a pillow;
• steel wire for the filter;
• pipes;
• wire for arranging a bottom filter.

5. Choice of location and arrangement of the pit

With the help of hired specialists or folk methods
(dowsing, barometric method, using silica gel, by quantity
Rossy, exploratory drilling, etc.) determine the place where the aquifer
is closest to the surface.

Digging a hole for a water well Next, we dig a hole. This is the development of soil of a certain depth, the purpose of which is to facilitate the process of drilling a well.

The arrangement of the pit is an important stage for two reasons.

Firstly, the depth of drilling with a drill is reduced.

Secondly, the possibility of soil collapse around the well is excluded.

Pit dimensions are determined by the driller, but are usually
1.5x1.5 and 1.5-2.5m. in depth. To prevent the soil from crumbling, the pit is strengthened
plywood, boards or metal.

6. First method: tripod - drilling rig

Water well drilling rig A tripod is a percussion-cable mechanism for drilling water wells. The support structure will be needed in order to facilitate the drilling process through the use of a drill glass.

Diagram of a tripod device for drilling The tripod can be made of wood (knots are excluded) or a metal pipe (or profile). The length of the beam or pipe should be 4-5 m. How to make a tripod for drilling can be seen in the diagram.
Drilling glass for drilling Further, a mechanical winch with a cable is attached to the tripod, on which the drill glass is fixed.

Such a drilling rig is compact, and has a significant
margin of safety. The principle of operation of the installation is simple: a glass falling into the ground absorbs
ground yourself. Depending on the composition of the soil in one stroke, you can choose from 20
see up to 1 m. of soil. To facilitate the work, you can fill the drilling site with water. Time
from time to time, the drill glass must be cleaned of the soil stuffed into it.

Attention: The cable on which the drill is attached must be longer
well depth. Otherwise, it will break off, and the drill will remain at the bottom.

The casing pipe can be installed at the same time as
advancing to the depth or after all the work has been completed.

7. The second method - casing and drill

During the drilling process, you can immediately install the casing.
Then its diameter must be greater than the diameter of the drill, so that the drill can freely
move in the pipe.

When performing work, you need to constantly monitor the moisture content of the soil being removed so as not to miss the aquifer (otherwise it can be closed with a pipe). The main features are below.

Material prepared for site moydomik.net

Dirty water pumping After an aquifer is discovered, dirty water must be pumped out in order to understand whether there are enough water reserves in this vein. For this, a submersible or hand pump is used.

If after pumping out 2-3 buckets of muddy water, clean still does not appear, you should continue drilling until
more capacious layer.

Important: the pump is not designed for such operating conditions, therefore
after cleaning the water, it may break. It is recommended to use only
quality pump.

8. Well casing

For casing, steel or plastic pipes can be used.
(service life up to 50 years). But the use of galvanized pipes is not recommended,
due to the risk of water contamination with zinc impurities.

The meaning of the upset is as follows:

• prevention of shedding of the walls of the well;

• prevention of well silting;

• elimination of the possibility of perched water getting into the well
  (water of the upper layers, melt or rain water);

• eliminating the risk of clogging the well.

The installation of the casing pipe is carried out immediately after
completion of work or directly in the process of drilling.

Tip: if the pipes go "creaking" you need to attach to them
sledgehammer.

9. Flushing the well with water after drilling

The installation of a casing pipe does not end there. Now
the well needs to be flushed out. To do this, a pipe is lowered into it, through which under
water is supplied under pressure. Due to the pressure of water from the well, a layer of clay will be washed out
and sand to be pumped out. After the appearance of clean water, it must be handed over to
analysis. Requirements for the quality of water from a well are regulated by SanPiN 2.1.4.1074-01 (Russia) or
DSanPіN 2.2.4-171-10 (Ukraine). If the water quality is satisfactory,
continue work.

10. Bottom filter for sand well

The purpose of the filter is to protect the pipe from silting.

Well filter - notches How to make a filter for a well?

You can make a slotted filter with your own hands, for this you need to make notches (cuts) with a grinder at the end of the pipe.

Tip: for notches, you need to use a thin disk (0.8mm). Pay attention - many notches will weaken the pipe.

Well filter - drilling holes Alternatively, you can drill holes in the pipe. Next, the place of notches / drilling must be wrapped with wire or mesh. Lay the filter obtained in this way on a crushed stone pillow, backfilling of which will not allow the filter to
silt up.
Tip: the diameter of the filter pipe should be smaller than the diameter of the main pipes in order to be able to dive into the well without problems.

The easiest option is to purchase a ready-made filter.

Important: without a filter, the well will not work for long. Its absence is justified only in deep water wells (more than 40 m)

11. Well debit for water

To get a complete picture of the capacity of the well at
sand must be waited a day, and then check the level of incoming water. If
the incoming water is sufficient for the needs of users can fill up the distance
between soil and casing. The pit is also buried.

12. The buildup of a well for water after drilling

This is a required step. To perform the buildup or simply
final cleaning of the well, it is necessary to install a large centrifugal pump
power and periodically pump out water for 1.5-2 weeks.

Tip: you should decide in advance where you will be redirected
pumped water.

13. Drilling a water well with your own hands - video

Manual technology using the shock-rope method of hole punching.

14. Installing a pump for a well for water

Please note surface type pumps are not intended
for installation in a well. Due to the depth limitation of 8 m. For these purposes
only a submersible pump is suitable - centrifugal or vibration. Each of
subspecies has its own merits, and the final choice can be made
analyzing the influence of such factors as:

• well depth;
• water level in the well;
• casing diameter;
• well debit;
• water pressure in the well;
• well pump cost.

15. Putting the well into operation

If drilling a well under water was not carried out independently,
and with the involvement of a third-party organization, then before accepting a job you need
require the following documents:

• hydrogeological conclusion on the possibility of implementing a water well project;

• well passport;

• permission of the sanitary and epidemiological station (checks the quality of water and the compliance of the sanitary zone with the requirements);

• certificate of completion.

If all the work will be carried out independently, then the main thing is not to rush, but to withstand the technology and observe all the key points of the process of drilling a well on
water. At the same time, do not forget that only the use of high-quality materials (in particular, pipes and a pump) will be the key to long-term operation of the well.

Tags: Well Water supply