How to install a plastic window sill. Installing a PVC window sill with your own hands: subtleties and nuances of installation

The plastic window sill is installed on final stage installation of PVC windows. Typically, these works are included in the range of services of the organization that was engaged in the manufacture of the window unit with its further installation. But, given the relatively simple process of installing a window sill, it is quite possible to install it yourself. To do this correctly, it is recommended to follow the appropriate instructions.

Taking measurements

A plastic window sill can be installed only if its dimensions have been determined in accordance with the characteristics of the window block, opening and slopes. Its width is determined by the thickness of the load-bearing wall from the window. In addition to this, the margin along the edge (the protruding part of the window sill above the radiator) is taken into account, as well as the area located under window block(1-2 cm).

For this purpose, the manufacturer of double-glazed windows provides a special profile. The optimal outlet along the edge will be approximately 7-8 cm. A plastic window sill of this width will not interfere with the flow of heat from the radiator.

The length will correspond to the width of the window, only about 10 cm is added to this size (5 cm on each side). To properly secure the window sill, an additional 5 cm of surface must extend into the slopes. The amount of work depends on the condition of the load-bearing wall in the window opening (whether there are slopes, whether it is plastered, etc.).

Preparation for installation

If you plan to install the window sill yourself, you need to take into account that the edges of the PVC profile of the cut product must extend into the slopes. To do this, you will have to break the section along the lower edge of the slopes.

In a situation where the surface finishing of the window opening has not yet been completed, load-bearing walls At the appropriate level, you need to make grooves using the gating method. Their depth should correspond to the size of the reserve left on each side (5 cm). This work does not need to be performed if you plan to install plasterboard slopes.

Necessary tool for the job

To install the window sill correctly, you will need a set of tools: a jigsaw/circular saw, building level, gun for polyurethane foam, pencil, tape measure, puncher and chisel (required for scoring).

If you wish, you can trim the profile yourself, but you can order a window sill to be made according to the specified dimensions. The area of ​​the window opening where it is planned to be installed is cleared of construction debris. You can remove dust with a cloth soaked in water.

Stages of work execution

Regardless of who took the measurements and cut out the window sill with the required parameters, additional adjustment of the product may be required. This is usually done in areas where plastic block does not fit into the window opening. For self-pruning, use a grinder/jigsaw.

Now you can install the window sill: at the bottom of the window there is a special profile into which it is inserted. The workpiece should fit into the groove at a distance of up to 2 cm. at this stage you need to arrange a slope of no more than 1 cm towards the living space.

It is usually customary to secure the window sill using wooden wedges. They are installed on rough coating window opening under the workpiece at a distance of up to 40 cm from each other. This allows you to correctly install the PVC profile, and, in addition, promotes tight contact between the block and the frame.

Checking for the absence of distortions and the accuracy of the position of the workpiece is carried out using a construction profile. If irregularities are detected, additional chips must be selected. It is recommended to place them under the wedges from the bottom of the window sill, which is already installed in the window.

The final stage of work is fixation of the structure. This is done using polyurethane foam and a special gun. Depending on what filling composition is used, the sufficient load weight is determined.

If ordinary foam is used, then in order to avoid deformation of the profile, it is advisable to load its entire surface. This can be organized using water bottles. Filling the voids with polyurethane foam is done as carefully as possible, since the reliability of the window sill will depend on this.

Then the structure must dry completely, which takes 24 hours. After this, the excess foam is cut off.

What do you need to know?

When installing, you should consider some features:

• when wedges are installed under windows, they should be slightly recessed, otherwise they will have to be cut off;
• before attaching the workpiece, you need to remove the protective film from the profile, but not over the entire surface, but only where the window sill will fit into the groove under the window;
• when applying foam, it is advisable not to leave voids, but there is also no need to be zealous with its quantity, since when it dries, it can squeeze out even the load installed on the window sill;
• When working with polyurethane foam, it is recommended to keep a special cleaner on hand in case something gets dirty;
• if you have little experience in such work, you can use spacers instead of a load (water bottle): wooden beams completely installed on horizontally oriented boards, which, in turn, are laid on the window sill.

Thus, the installation process itself is quite simple, but if some features were missed, then as a result the window sill will have to be laid again. To correctly install the workpiece, use a building level.

A sufficient level of load on the window sill is determined based on what composition of the polyurethane foam is used: two-component or regular. The second of these options requires the use of a significant load.

When replacing old window structures, you must immediately install new window sills from modern materials. Today, plastic products are at the top of their popularity. The width of the PVC panel is 60 cm, which makes it possible to install them with almost any wall thickness. Read on to learn how to install a plastic window sill efficiently and reliably.

1. Preparatory work
2. Exception - installation of wooden structures

Preparatory work

The preparatory stage includes measuring and choosing a structure, selecting tools, and purchasing building materials. If the double-glazed windows have not been replaced, the old window sill board will need to be dismantled. When replacing a window, the old window structure is completely removed. Installation of a new double-glazed window is carried out by specialists from the manufacturer. Installation of a plastic window sill can also be carried out by specialists or by the customer himself.

Installation of a plastic window sill is carried out only after installing the window frame and double-glazed windows.

When replacing only the panel, you must first take the correct measurement:

1. Measure the width of the window opening. Add another 10 cm and get the total length of the structure.
2. The width of the panel is equal to the distance from the installed window to the corner of the wall plus 5 cm for the protrusion. It is not advisable to make the base of the window wider, since air circulation is disrupted, which leads to fogging of the glass.

Read a more detailed article on the topic: the correct height and width of the window sill.

Tools and materials

To install a plastic window sill with your own hands, you will need a set of tools:

• carpenter level;
• electric jigsaw or grinder;
• carpenter's knife and hacksaw;
• ax and hammer;
• square;
• marker and masking tape.

The following materials should be prepared:

• sealant;
• gun and polyurethane foam;
• window sill panel;
• three sets of plastic or wood bases of different widths;
• two end caps.

Preparing the installation site for a PVC window sill

Installation of a plastic window sill

Using a hacksaw, electric jigsaw, an ax removes the old structure and window frame. Along the edges wooden product The cement screed is removed. Clean the opening from loose building material and insulation.

Specialists install a new PVC window so that a distance of at least 5 cm is maintained between the base of the window opening and the bottom of the frame. The opening left will serve as a support for the new structure.

If you plan to install a PVC window sill with your own hands that is longer than the window opening, grooves are selected on the sides at the base. For this you need a hammer and a grinder. First, they cut the wall, and then carefully knock it out with a hammer. construction material. The height of the groove is such that new panel went in easily. The length of one groove is more than 5 cm.

The distance between the base of the window opening and the frame is foamed with mounting foam or covered with insulation. After the foam has completely hardened, cut off the excess with a carpenter's knife. When installing a plastic panel the size of a window opening, mark the mounting locations of the brackets at a distance of no more than 80 cm.

Video: Installing a window sill

Before installation PVC products It is necessary to once again clean the base from debris and dust. Be sure to moisten the brick with water to ensure adhesion.

Installing a plastic window sill

All materials have been purchased and the tools are ready to go. The installation of the window sill begins.

1. Determine the width of the structure. It can be the same as the width of the old base. When replacing windows and installing a new PVC product, its new width is calculated. Ideally, the edge of the panel is located in the same plane as the middle of the battery heating system. When installing a panel whose edge protrudes beyond the battery, ventilation holes are installed in the panel itself. Such holes are also made in the casing in front of the battery. They are needed for good air ventilation in front of the window, which protects window design from the appearance of condensation.
2. Select the length of the plastic base. When two windows are located nearby, preference is given to one with a holistic design. When installing PVC window sills of a size equal to the window opening, the length of the panel is made shorter by 10 mm.

According to the selected panel sizes, an order is made at a hardware store. The shop's craftsmen immediately carry out trimming according to the specified parameters. Sometimes they buy a blank and do the trimming at home themselves.

1. Mounting support plastic window sills made from pre-purchased substrates. The width of the bar must be at least 50 mm, and the length must not exceed the width of the product. The shortest underlay should be 100 mm less than the width of the panel. Special attention given to the thickness of the substrate. After installing the bar, the panel should fit into the window sill space between the lower window frame and the substrate.
2. Before installing the support bars, the surface of the base is leveled with cement mortar. One structure requires a minimum of three substrates. Optimal distance between bars - 40–50 cm.
3. The supports are aligned strictly horizontally and the correct installation is checked using a level in all planes. They make a control installation of the plastic panel. The result of proper fastening of the substrate is that the structure fits tightly into the gap between the edge of the window and the support.
4. Installing plastic window sills with your own hands begins with removing the protective film from the side adjacent to the window. Install plugs on the ends of the panel. Carefully insert the structure onto the fixed supports.
5. The panel fits tightly into place. Lightly tap the product to align it with the window frame. Carry out level control measurements in two directions.
6. Gaps of 5 mm are left on the right and left, which makes it possible to protect the panel from deformation. Upon completion of installation, the gaps are sealed with sealant.
7. Carefully foam the space under the plastic window sill with polyurethane foam. If the panel is poorly fixed, the increase in foam volume will cause it to warp.
8. Spacers are installed along the edges and in the center of the window opening. You can make them yourself or buy transforming spacers in a store. They do not allow the foam to rise established base window opening. When the foam hardens well, the spacers are dismantled and the excess polyurethane foam is cut off.
9. After the slopes are installed, they begin to seal the gaps. Painting tape is glued along the edges. Fill the gap silicone sealant. Remove the excess and remove the masking tape.
10. The protective film is removed after completion of work.

If you have stained your window sill with foam, read: how to clean foam from a surface.

Video: Installing a window sill

An exception is the installation of wooden window sills

Window sills made of oak, pine, beech, ash or cherry make the interior of the house warmer and more comfortable. Giving preference natural materials, many owners of apartments and houses choose natural ones instead of artificial plastic wooden bases. Stores sell wooden panels coated with varnishes of different shades with different surface textures. Having made your choice, proceed to installing a wooden window sill with your own hands.

Preparing the walls

Clean the base from dust and debris. The surface is moistened with water to ensure good adhesion. If there is a niche under the window, metal or wooden supports so that the panel does not hang in the air. In this case, the wooden structure is dressed in a metal frame.

Window sill leveling

The window sill board is first placed using wedges, ensuring that it slopes into the room by only 2 degrees. Along the window, the board is positioned strictly horizontally. When all necessary indicators achieved, the wedges are strengthened with a small amount of mortar by removing the workpiece.

Fastening a wooden window sill

A layer of mortar is laid on the base, covering the wedges by 5 mm. Cement mortar is mainly used, but putty or gypsum can be used. Place the window sill in place and press it tightly against the wedges until it stops. Any excess that appears is removed with a spatula.

Advice! To be on the safe side, an insulating film is first laid on top of the solution to protect the wood from direct contact with the aqueous solution.

Sealing and strengthening of fastening

For more reliable fixation from the facade side, long self-tapping screws are driven through the window frame into the end of the wooden window sill. After completing the fastening of the structure, small cracks are sealed with liquid acrylic.

Now you know how to install a plastic window sill and wooden structure on one's own. Follow our advice and you will succeed. To better assimilate the material you read, watch the video we selected about different options installation

Video: Window Sill Installation. Installing a Window Sill Using Tile Glue.

Video: Work after installing a plastic window sill.

Similar materials

How to take the dimensions of a window sill and how to cut a PVC window sill? Competent, step by step installation window sill. Read in this article.

The classic installation of a PVC window sill is the installation of a window sill, which includes the basic operations performed in most cases. Of course, there are always exceptions, which we will also talk about, for example VIP installation!

Window sills for plastic windows

PVC window sills are most often installed on plastic windows. Wooden window sills are installed less frequently. And very rarely, stone window sills are installed. The latter have their own installation specifics. We will not talk about them in this article.

How to install a wooden window sill on plastic windows? The technology for installing plastic and wooden window sills is not fundamentally different. Therefore further, we'll talk only about installation methods for PVC window sills.

For those who first decided to install a window sill with their own hands, it is important to know that the quality of the window sill plastic affects the installation process. If you intend to work with an economy class window sill (for example, from the ECO company), then you need to treat it with care. For example, when cutting such a window sill with a jigsaw, large chips may appear.

Where can you buy a PVC window sill in St. Petersburg at an affordable price? — Below, for comparison, I give approximate window sill prices for plastic windows, having dimensions 250 x 2000 mm:

• Inexpensive and not high quality - “Eco” - 350 rubles.
• Inexpensive, but high quality - “Stained glass” - 450 rubles.
• Expensive and high quality - “Stained glass VPL” - 1250 rubles.
• Very expensive and very high quality - “Danke”, “Moeller”, 2200 rubles each.

PVC window sill markings

Following the technology for installing a turnkey plastic window, the plastic window sill should be installed after it has already been installed plastic window. In the previous article, I already said that the ebb and window sill are installed at the same time.

In order to understand how to install a window sill on plastic windows, you need to understand that the most important operation in this process is marking the PVC window sill. Next, step-by-step verified instructions with photos, and my video is at the end of the article.

First, take a sheet of paper and a pencil. We draw a window in a section along the width, in a simple way, in the form of an elongated rectangle. View from above. And enter the value of the window width into our rectangle.

Secondly, we find the starting point of the marking. This is done as follows. We measure the length of the window sill. We write the value above the rectangle. We get two numeric values into the column to be subtracted. Like at school, in first grade))).

We divide the resulting difference in half. And we get the main number, which determines the starting point for marking the PVC window sill. This figure is equal to the distance from the edge of the window sill to the edge of the frame on each side.

Thus, after installing the window sill and slopes, we will have the same:

• The side projections of the window sill are the “ears” and
• Dawn angles of slopes

Thirdly, continuing the marking, we take two bench squares (90 degrees) with a scale of 30 cm and 50 cm. Next, we place the first large square with one side against the window sill profile, and with the other side, perpendicular, we press it against the wall, leaving a small gap. The main thing is to understand that the position of the square is the future position of the cut-off window sill. All that remains is to take the first measurement along the length of the window sill, and write down this size on our sheet of paper, on which the starting point of measurement has already been determined.

Fourthly, using a second square, pressing it against the inner wall of the room, we fix the second size along the width of the window sill. After which, the last cutting line of the side protrusion is automatically obtained.

Dimensions are taken similarly on the right side of the window sill.

After which the markings are applied to the window sill itself.

This markup that we looked at is the simplest. It is made in a flat perpendicular opening.

It happens that the opening has a step configuration, then it is necessary to take several measurements. But the principle of marking does not change.

Fifthly, if the opening has an angle, then the marking of the PVC window sill is carried out at an angle. To do this, just as in the first case, we press one side of the large square against the window sill profile, and direct the other perpendicular side at an angle. Let's imagine that this will be the corner cutting line. And we place the second square against the inner wall of the room. The point where the squares intersect is the end point. Let's fix its value. Next, leaving the second small square in a stationary position, we again attach the large square to the window sill profile at 90 degrees. We fix the second value at the intersection of the squares.

Thus, the PVC window sill is marked. It must also be said that the cutting line of the side protrusion can be either flush with the inner wall of the room or recessed into this wall. This depends on whether the customer will make repairs after installing the window.

How to cut a PVC window sill?

After marking, the PVC window sill must be cut off. For this you can use four tools:

1. Hacksaw for metal. Yes, the cheapest instrument, but it requires good physical preparation.

2. Electric jigsaw. The most acceptable option. You can use an inexpensive one. For example, I'm in Lately I use the company Interskol. Such a jigsaw costs from 1700 to 2500 rubles.

The main thing when working with a jigsaw is to set the pendulum stroke to the number “0” and use a metal file with a fine tooth.

3. Grinder (“UShM” - corner Grinder). Most effective tool. Allows you to cut PVC window sills most accurately. But, at the same time, the grinder is very noisy and creates a lot of dust.

4. Cordless saw “Makita HS300DWE” and “Bosch GKS 10.8 V-LI”. Lightweight, convenient, cordless tool, but very expensive. The cost of such a saw is about 10,000 rubles.

By the way, we don’t throw away the trimmings from the window sill. They will be useful to us during installation. Read about it below.

We made the markings. The window sill was cut off. Now we will learn how to install it. Before that, we need to prepare some materials:

Well, and some tools:

• Construction knife
• Hammer
• Bench angle 90 degrees (also used for marking, see above)
• Level 40 and 60 cm
• Gun for polyurethane foam with a cylinder
• Sprayer with water
• Cargo in the form of improvised means

The most important thing in installing a window sill- these are its supporting points, or rather their number. The classic installation done by most window installers is to minimize these supporting elements. In this case, the window sill will look quite durable. You can stand on it and you can walk on it. In this case, a slight deflection is possible. As they say, price equals quality.

The gap between the window sill and its base in classical method doesn't matter. There are many tricks and subtleties that allow you to achieve a certain strength of the window sill with a large gap, for example from 5 to 15 cm. It is clear that the client who has paid for the classic installation of windows is enough low price, has no idea that he is literate and correct installation has a completely different cost. And having recognized her, he would have begun to doubt and run to another company, where he would have been offered the original price, having gone over his ears. And the end result would most likely be the same.

This revelation is necessary so that a client who wants truly super quality must understand that he will have to pay a lot of money for this quality. But this is not enough. Also, you need to thoroughly study the process for which he pays. For example, the process we are talking about in this article is how to install a window sill on plastic windows? Otherwise, he will simply be cheated. So there are two options:

1. Classic PVC window sill installation
2. VIP installation of PVC window sill

I consider myself not to have the right to condemn the first installation method, since it has the right to life, if only because we live in Russia. And in our country there is such a thing as Russian reality. But even this installation method must be competent and verified.

Classic PVC window sill installation

So we already have installed window and a PVC window sill cut to size. As I said above, we need to create support points in two or three rows parallel to the window. The first row runs directly along the window. The second row runs along the edge interior wall. The third row is the middle one and is necessary if the window sill width is more than 400 mm.

In the classical method, the optimal number of support points in each row is calculated as follows:

• Single-leaf window (width 1000 - 1200 mm) - two supports
• Double-leaf window (width 1400 - 1600 mm) - three supports
• Three-leaf window (width 1700 - 2700) - four, five supports, depending on the width of the window

Further, the support in a classic PVC window sill installation is usually wooden. And these wooden linings, installers saw from old, dismantled wooden windows, which is not so scary. After all, the tree is dry.

First, we set up the first row. To do this, take the largest trim from the window sill. With its help, we select the height of the support so that the window sill is pressed tightly against the window frame.

Also, instead of wooden pads, you can use brackets to press the window sill to the window frame, costing 8 rubles apiece. A little expensive, but the installation speed is increased and simplified. The number of staples is the same as the number of supports. The disadvantage is that the bracket only serves as a temporary support for the window sill. Under the weight of a person, the bracket bends slightly, unlike wooden linings. To avoid this, after foaming the window sill (foaming occurs at the very end), you need to wait for the foam to dry completely, about one hour, before standing on the windowsill.

When the first support row is set, you can proceed to the second - outermost row. It is also installed using the same trim from the window sill, and using a level or square. I prefer a square, and set the window sill at 90 degrees relative to the window frame at each reference point. After all, I know that my In this case, the subsequent installation of the slope is facilitated. There is practically no gap between the slope and the window sill. And the slope does not need to be cut at an angle (extra work). AND horizontal level the window sill does not need to be checked. It will be the same as the window level.

Here, let's make a small digression. The question arises. How to properly install a window sill on plastic windows? Strictly at a horizontal level or at an angle of 2 - 3 degrees (with a slight inclination into the room)? Why is it so strongly recommended to do this tilt? No matter what site you go to, everywhere an inclination angle of 2-3 degrees is required and that’s it.

So, the slope is needed to drain water inside the room, which appears on the windowsill from slanting rain, from condensation when the window is installed incorrectly, from excessive watering of flowers, from washing glass.

Now let's imagine where will he go water at horizontal installation window sill. Firstly, The amount of water on the windowsill is minimal under any circumstances. I personally have not heard of floods on windowsills. Secondly, The seam between the window sill and the window frame is always sealed. Third, in order for the water to quickly leave the window sill, a much greater slope is needed, and with a slight slope, water will still accumulate on the window sill.

Yes, installing a window sill with a reverse angle is unacceptable, as this actually creates the possibility of water accumulation. But, again, don’t forget about the sealant. In short, the window sill must be level.

I believe that when, while watering a pot of flowers that stands on the windowsill, and water accidentally spills, it should spill evenly on your window sill. different sides, and not pour on the floor. Also, I believe that, for example, a writing pen should not roll off the windowsill, as well as any round object. Especially considering the fact that some wide window sills are used as tables.

Well, in general this is my opinion about the slope of the window sill. Let's move on. If a third - middle row is required, it is done very simply. In the middle of the window sill trim, linings are selected according to height.

Since, in my example, a double-hung window, I use three supports in each row. Accordingly, we display them in the same way.

After all the supports have been selected, you can take our pre-cut window sill (see above) and insert it under the window frame for fitting. At the same time, once again check the perpendicularity of the installation with a square. Next, remove the window sill, wet the first row along the frame and all support points with a sprayer. And we begin the foaming stage.

We apply a strip of foam along the first row of support points along the window frame, so that half of the window sill profile is covered with foam.

If there is a middle support row, then you need to foam it not completely, but only the support points. The second, outermost row is foamed at the end. Next, we insert the window sill so that the right and left starting points of the markings coincide with the edges of the window frame.

We measure the width of the protrusions. If necessary, we adjust these values ​​by slightly extending or deepening the window sill on each side. We make a control measurement with a square or level in the plane of inclination. After that, all that remains is to foam the second support row completely. Advice: if this gap is more than 5 cm, you need to foam in two layers. Apply the first layer 2.3 cm. Wait for it to dry (20 - 30 minutes). Then, foam the second layer to the end. Also, do not forget to foam the gaps where the window sill is cut, and do not forget to put a weight weighing from 1 kg to 10 kg, depending on the width of the gap. Since I have a gap of about 2 cm, a load like the one in the picture (tray with tool) is enough.

And here is what should happen after installing the slopes. Despite the fact that when marking, the protrusions, the so-called ears, were different, now, as can be seen in the photo, these protrusions are the same. At the same time, the angles of dawn of the slopes are also the same.

This is the classic installation of a window sill, which is done by professionals. But anyone can do such an installation with their own hands.

VIP installation of PVC window sill

The most important principle, VIP installation of a PVC window sill, is that the size of the gap between the base of the platform and the window sill should be 10 - 20 mm. Accordingly, if in a classic installation, this distance is not filled with anything. That is, voids remain because the installers have neither time nor money, which the client does not want to part with. That VIP installation involves filling this space with cement mortar.

One more digression or advice. Very often this filling method is used for large-scale repairs. But builders and finishers, understanding little about the window business, pour the screed under the window sill tightly to the frame or to the window sill profile. And sometimes the foam is picked out right under the window sill profile. So, you can’t do that. The screed should not reach the window block by about 5 cm. There should be foam there.

Further, why don’t window installers make such a screed? That's right, you have to wait for it to dry. And for the money they work for, it is not profitable to wait. In addition, you need to buy the solution. Some craftsmen install the window sill directly on the screed. It's faster that way.

But, if we talk about top level installations - VIP, then, as I said above, you need to fill the screed with a gap of 10 - 20 mm, wait until it rises. Then, foam the area evenly with a snake. The foam layer is about 30 mm. Carefully place the window sill on this layer without moving it. Align with a level or square and press down with a light weight. The supports for this installation method are, of course, plastic. And they are displayed only in the second outer row. In all other places the window sill will have sufficient rigidity. This is achieved due to a small gap, which is filled with mounting foam in the form of a snake.

After the foam has completely dried, its remains under the window sill are cut off and the seam under the window sill is sealed. This operation is done both on a VIP installation and on a classic PVC window sill installation.

Note! Installation plastic threshold on the balcony has its own technology. The classic threshold setting is not suitable. Read about it

I hope that the reader of my blog will understand not only the principle of DIY installation, but also the principle of the approach from a professional point of view. Payment for the services of a PVC window installer must correspond to the work done!!! And of course, my video.

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How to install window sills on plastic windows quickly and correctly

The internal window sill is an integral element of any window. It is officially believed that this part of the structure is necessary for additional insulation of the lower joint window frame with the wall and giving the window a finished look. In this article we will talk about what types of window sills there are and, since plastic windows occupy at least 50–70% of the market in our country, I will dwell in detail on how to properly install a window sill on plastic windows.

What types of window sills are there?

By and large, if the craftsmen installed the window frame efficiently and foamed the bottom gap well, this sector no longer needs special insulation. Therefore, owners are usually more interested in the question of how respectable this or that window sill will look, and, of course, the price of this pleasure.

Many inexperienced owners believe that since their windows are plastic, then all other fittings should also be mounted from PVC (polyvinyl chloride, popularly known as window plastic).

In fact, you can put any window sills here, the main thing is that they suit the design and you have enough money for them. Therefore, before installing a window sill on plastic windows, it would be a good idea to familiarize yourself with the main offers on the market:

• Naturally, the most popular material is the above-mentioned polyvinyl chloride. The hollow structure, reinforced with internal ribs, is considered quite warm and durable. It harmonizes almost perfectly with traditional white windows, and you can choose a window sill for laminated windows. Plus, the PVC plate costs quite reasonable money. Plastic is not afraid of moisture and, if the technology is not broken, then it will last as long as windows;

If the choice fell on PVC, you should not get carried away with saving, they are not expensive anyway. The fact is that plastic, like no other material, is susceptible to sun rays. While the window sill is new, everything will be beautiful, but after six months the surface of the cheap plastic will change. At a minimum, it will turn yellow, and at maximum, it will crack and become deformed.

• Figuratively speaking, the older brother of polyvinyl chloride is a plastic window sill on an acrylic base. It costs about 3 times more, but the quality is much better. Whatever one may say, a PVC plate is afraid of elevated temperatures, unlike it, you can place hot pots on acrylic and even a cigarette butt forgotten on it will not cause harm to the surface. Acrylic plate is much stronger, its shiny glossy surface looks more respectable. The colors here are brighter and the palette is wider;

• The wooden window sill is rightfully considered the patriarch of this trend. In the budget sector, pine is usually used. The range of species in luxury window sills is much wider; it can be golden oak, teak and a dozen other exotic types of wood. But to be honest, I don’t understand people who put expensive natural wood on plastic windows. And in general, plastic does not harmonize well with wood, unless these windows are laminated to match a certain type of wood;

• Window sills made of laminated chipboard or MDF are a completely different matter.. In this case, these are the same slabs from which the countertops are made, which is actively used by designers. Chipboard will cost a little less, MDF will be more expensive. But MDF is more resistant to a humid environment and I always recommend using it. Since installing a window sill if the window is already standing is a task for home handyman quite feasible, people have now rushed en masse to replace the old plastic with new laminated MDF;

• Polished window sill natural stone, of course, they look luxurious, but the prices for them are, frankly, exorbitant. Although if you look at it, they are not so good in operation. The fact is that natural stone is unpredictable; stains from coffee or red wine may remain on it; any stove always has critical point, when struck lightly, the plate bursts. Plus, the same granite can often and densely emit light radiation. Agree, it’s not very pleasant to install such a “gift” in own home, and even for a lot of money;

• Both in terms of cost and operational characteristics It is much more profitable to install modern artificial stone. Firstly, in appearance it is often no different from natural. Secondly, it is more resistant to mechanical and chemical influences. The accusations of skeptics that artificial stone is less durable are only partly true. After all, for example, the warranty for porcelain stoneware starts from 50 – 70 years. To put it bluntly, these window sills are more likely to get boring than to fall apart.

For a story about manufacturers and prices for everything existing species no article is enough for window sills. But since even an amateur can install a plastic window sill correctly, I decided to stick with it. Plus, according to statistics, about 50% of the plastic window market is occupied by PVC window sills.

Below, to make it easier for you to navigate, I have compiled a small table that contains the most popular and reliable manufacturers of various window fittings with average prices for the window sills we are interested in.

Window sill installation technique

The easiest way is to install or replace a window sill made of PVC and acrylic yourself. Instructions for MDF installation, chipboard and natural wood not much more difficult. As for natural or artificial stone, then it is better to entrust these materials to professionals, since not every master can install them.

Removing the old stove

Naturally, before replacing an old, outdated window sill with a new one, you must first dismantle it. Don't be alarmed, this is a simple matter, but a responsible one. After all, the more carefully you remove the slab, the less hassle there will be with preparing the base.

• If there is a wooden window sill, then to dismantle it you will need a hacksaw and a pry bar or a small crowbar. It’s not worth knocking out the board right away with a pry bar; you can seriously damage the slopes and then you’ll have to tinker with them as well. It is better to make 2 or 3 cuts and pull out the central part. In this case, on the sides you will have small pieces walled up in the slopes. These pieces need to be carefully knocked out with several blows from the side, at the end;

I am often asked whether it is possible to replace a hacksaw with a grinder? So, under no circumstances should you do this. Remember, almost the most a large number of Injuries and injuries from an angle grinder occur precisely when trying to cut wood with an angle grinder.

• But in the case of reinforced concrete or stone slab A grinder with a diamond blade will be exactly what you need. In this case, in addition to it, a heavy hammer or a small sledgehammer will also come in handy. First, several cuts are made with a grinder, if possible through. After this, take a hammer and knock out this entire “cut” with blows from the bottom up. Residues are cleaned using a pry bar;

• The fastening of a plastic window sill is considered one of the weakest. But before removing such a slab, you should first dismantle the ebb (outer window sill) and check whether our plastic is screwed on with self-tapping screws from the outside. If they are there, then naturally they will need to be unscrewed. If there are none, then all you have to do is carefully trim the mounting foam under the slab and try to pull out the window sill, simultaneously moving it down and towards you.

A few words about preparing the base

Whether you're replacing an old structure or working from a clean slate, before you install anything new, you need to prepare the foundation. In fact, all preparation consists of removing dust and debris, as well as filling large potholes, if any.

Some craftsmen advise making a level screed under the window sill, supposedly on its basis it will be easier to level the slab. I tried installing both with and without a screed, on a bare base.

I’ll tell you honestly, there’s nothing reprehensible in the screed, you can do this, but it’s a pity for the time spent on it. After all, by and large, there is no difference in whether you place wooden wedges on a flat base or on a curve. And if you plan to install it on alabaster or cement-sand mortar, arranging a level screed generally loses its meaning.

Let's start installation

Window sill installation always begins with fitting. Of course, ideally, it is better to install the window sill before arranging the slopes, while the walls are bare, but this only happens in new buildings.

Since we are talking about how to replace the old with the new, we will have to cut, or rather, knock out grooves in the side slopes. There is one interesting nuance here. The instructions recommend that before placing the window sill to the plastic window, make wide lateral allowances, approximately 5 - 7 cm from each edge.

That is, we need to make side grooves in the slopes 5–7 cm deep along the outer edge. It is believed that this is supposedly more elegant. If you need to cultivate 1 - 2 windows, then these approaches to the walls will not play a big role.

It’s a completely different matter when the task is to completely furnish all the windows in a fairly large private house, and funds are limited. In this case, an addition of 10 cm on each window will eventually result in a whole extra window sill.

Personally, I always recommend making side tolerances of no more than 20 - 30 mm. Believe me, this is quite enough to ensure a decent appearance. Moreover, on most windows in residential buildings And in apartments, curtains are hung that will completely cover all these tolerances.

The side grooves themselves are knocked out to the tolerance depth, that is, to the distance at which the slab will go inside the slope.

In order to accurately mark and not grab excess, you need to take a square, attach it to the window frame and draw a horizontal line starting from the top cut of the groove under the window sill and ending with the outer cut of the slope. This will be the upper boundary of our groove.

The easiest way is to make cuts on the slopes with a grinder to the required depth, and then knock out the excess using a hammer drill or chisel with a hammer.

Plastic window sills can be installed in two ways, with or without fixation on the window frame. The only difference is that in the first version, the inner end of the window sill, the one that is adjacent to the window frame, is first rigidly fixed to this very frame. Further, the entire installation algorithm is completely identical.

When marking and trimming the window sill, it should be taken into account that it should not protrude beyond the cut of the wall by more than 5 - 7 cm. And under the frame itself the plane is immersed by a maximum of 1 - 2 cm.

Fixing it to the frame is extremely simple. In the place where the window sill will be adjacent to the frame, in increments of 300 - 400 mm, a series of through holes are made along the horizon. After which, the window sill is pressed against the frame and from the street side, screwed through these holes with long self-tapping screws. The self-tapping screws must enter the body of the slab at least 20 - 30 mm.

But it is not always possible to screw the slab to the frame with self-tapping screws. In this case, it is simply inserted under the frame. To enhance the thermal insulation, immediately before strengthening the slab, I apply a couple of strips of polyurethane foam to the installation site.

The installation of a plastic window sill itself looks something like this: first we insert the slab we cut out and see how it will lie in the future. There is no need to worry about horizontal curvature. After all, the slab is adjacent to the lower edge of the window frame, which is already aligned to the horizon.

But we need to slightly tilt the slab towards the inside of the room so that, if necessary, water does not accumulate, but flows freely from the window sill. As far as I have come across, different sources interpret the value of this angle differently. Personally, I tilt it around 5mm in width.

The inclined slab itself will be based on wooden wedges. These wedges are usually installed at a distance of about 300 mm from each other. Each of them is cut and adjusted personally and must fit tightly, without gaps.

As mentioned earlier, the plate sits in the groove under window frame on polyurethane foam. Then it rests on the wedges we installed. But before you secure it completely, check again that it stands firmly, without distortions or play. It’s better to tinker with adjusting the wedges now than to constantly cover up the cracks later.

To increase the adhesion (adhesion) of the polyurethane foam to any surface, this very surface must be well moistened.

The slab is secured by filling the voids underneath it with foam. And don’t try to blow out too much foam, it won’t make things better, the extra will come out anyway.

As you know, polyurethane foam expands when it hardens, and if this feature is not taken into account in time, then your window sill may squeeze out in the middle. To prevent such an incident from happening, after filling the gaps with foam, you need to place a load of about 15 - 20 kg on the windowsill. It should stand for at least 10 - 12 hours.

On last stage, the load is removed, the excess foam squeezed out from below is cut off, and the unflattering cracks on the sides in the slopes are puttied. Then all that remains is to admire your work.

Installation of wood and its derivatives

As I already mentioned, installing window sills made of natural wood, MDF or chipboard is not a little more complicated than installing plastic. Here, in exactly the same way, you need to knock out the grooves in the slopes after marking.

The window sill itself, if the frame design allows, it is advisable to fix it on the frame or on a base profile, which is placed under the frame. As in the case of plastic, this is done using self-tapping screws through through holes.

But in this case there is one small nuance: there is such an interesting physical quantity as the coefficient of thermal expansion of the material. So, when we put a plastic window sill on a plastic window there is nothing to be afraid of, because this coefficient is the same.

But in case of docking different materials, as a result of a mismatch in thermal and moisture expansion, gaps and cracks may appear over time. Therefore, we will need to glue a so-called damper tape to the end of the slab, which is designed to compensate for these vibrations.

Naturally, this tape is glued or attached to brackets only in places of direct contact with the body of the slopes and the window frame. Traditionally, the material for such tape is felt impregnated with an antiseptic. Although now some craftsmen use penofol (foamed polyethylene).

Wood, chipboard or MDF are heavier than plastic, so I personally prefer to use gypsum mortar instead of polyurethane foam, it’s more reliable. Instead of gypsum, you can just as successfully install the slab on a cement-sand mortar diluted in a ratio of 1:3.

In this case, the instructions will look something like this. We knock out grooves in the slopes, try on the slab and grind the required number of wooden wedges under it. After this, apply the solution to the base. The layer of solution should cover the wedges by 5 - 10 mm.

Further along the line where it joins the frame, we apply a couple of strips of polyurethane foam. We insert the window sill with the damper tape and press it until it rests against the wedges. We remove the excess squeezed out mortar and putty the cracks on the slopes at the junction with the slab.

If everything is done correctly, the window sill will stand firmly. But some masters prefer to play it safe. They hammer into wooden wedges from below long nail in such a way that it goes right through and looks out from above by 10 - 15 mm. The wooden wedge itself is fixed to the base with an anchor.

As a result, when you finally insert the slab, it fits onto the nails protruding from the wedges and is firmly attached. The method is worthy of attention.

The only downside here is that before installation you need to carefully measure and check everything several times. Otherwise, in case of an error, almost everything will have to be done again, because the nails will no longer allow you to move or adjust the slab.

Conclusion

Now you know how to install a window sill on plastic windows. The photos and videos in this article provide additional information on this topic. If you have any questions, leave them in the comments and let's talk.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Nowadays they are gaining more and more popularity plastic products. This material is quite practical and reliable, and also not expensive. If you decide to change wooden windows for plastic ones, and you don’t want to overpay for installing a window sill, or you just want to install a window sill with your own hands, then this article is just for you.

Preparatory stage includes measurements future design, also all materials and tools, as well as preparation window opening to install a new window sill.

Before purchasing, you need to take several measurements, namely:

• Window sill width. It is equal to the width of the window opening plus 10-15 centimeters.
• Window sill length. Measured as the length of the window opening plus 10-15 centimeters.

It should be noted that a window sill that is too large and wide can significantly impair air circulation, therefore, water droplets will accumulate on the windows and their service life will be reduced.

Of the tools, you should prepare or purchase:

• Jigsaw or grinder.
• Level.
• Hammer.
• Angle-ruler.
• Masking tape.

Materials you will need:

• Construction foam.
• Sealant.
• End caps.
• PVC panel of suitable size.
• Plastic substrates.

Preparing the surface for installing a window sill

First, you need to remove the old structure. This is done using a jigsaw or hacksaw. Next, you need to remove cement screed around the edges.

Clear the space of debris, loose material, insulation, and everything else. This will guarantee reliable fastening new window sill. It is best to vacuum the base under the window sill, this way you are guaranteed to reliably clean the base.

If you are planning to install a window sill with projections on the sides, then you should create small openings so that the panel fits in easily. First, a notch is made on the wall, then an opening of the required size is knocked out with a hammer. The openings must be the same on both sides and such that the PVC panel can be easily inserted.

After cleaning the base under the window sill, it should be well primed to ensure adhesion of the solution to level the base.

If you are only planning to replace the window sill, and the windows remain old, then the width and height will be the same as the width and height of the old wooden window sill. All you have to do is remove it and transfer the measurements to PVC panel. If they plan to change the windows or new windows have already been installed, then the dimensions of the window sill are calculated again. It is important that the window sill is installed only after the installation of the new windows has been completed. When taking accurate measurements before cutting, it is important to take into account that the window sill should extend 10-15 centimeters under the window frame, and the protrusions on the sides should not exceed 5 centimeters. The window sill should be made at an angle so that absolute altitude under the window frame and the height at the periphery differed by 2-3 millimeters.

Installing a PVC window sill with your own hands involves cutting the material. You can order PVC cutting at a hardware store or do it yourself using a jigsaw.

Once you have your PVC panel cut out, follow the instructions:

• Cut the bars for the substrates. They can be either plastic or wooden. Their width should not be less than 5 centimeters, and their length should be the same as the width of the base, excluding the window frame. The thickness of the substrate is selected based on the height of the window opening and the width of the PVC panel. Please note that the PVC panel must fit freely between the window frame and the substrates.
• The optimal number of substrates is 2-3 pieces per meter of length. Before installing them, the base must be properly leveled.
• The base is leveled using cement mortar or alabaster solution. This is done to ensure that the window sill does not have significant irregularities and maintains the integrity of the structure.
• After the base is leveled, it is checked with a level.
• Supports are installed every 40-50 centimeters. After this, they are checked by level in two directions. The supports can be tilted away from the window, but the angle of inclination should not exceed 0.5-1 degree.
• To check the correct installation of the supports, a control installation of the panel is done. If it fits in well and lies flat, then work continues.
• Before you start fixing the window frame, you should first clean the window frames from protective film and install plugs on the ends.
• The supports are securely fastened, and only after that, plastic panel can be installed. To ensure that it adheres to the base as best as possible, it is tapped with a hammer. After which, control measurements are made again with the level in two directions. If the panel lies flat, then work continues; if not, the panel is removed and the supports are aligned.
• Small gaps should be left on the left and right to prevent the panel from deforming. At the end of the work, they are sealed with sealant. Gaps should be no more than 5 millimeters. This is done so that the foam does not deform the window sill.
• All cracks and voids are filled with foam. Some experienced experts advise filling the voids between the supports not with foam, but with some kind of solution, for example, gypsum or cement. In this case, the support will be securely fastened.
• If you are afraid that the window sill may become deformed under the influence of foam, then leave several weights on it for a couple of days. Although, this should not happen if you left small gaps on the left and right.
• After the foam has completely dried, the excess should be removed with a knife, all remaining cracks should be filled with sealant, the joints between the window sill and the wall should be leveled and puttied. This way you will give your window sill a neater look.

In order to better understand the sequence of work, we suggest you watch the DIY installation of plastic window sills video.

Unlike plastic, wood gives the interior a touch of luxury and home comfort. But, at the same time, wood is a heavier and more capricious material.

The preparation process is no different from the preparation process for a plastic window sill.

The plane is cleaned and primed, leveled and supports are installed. The only difference is that a wooden window sill also needs metal frame.

Wood is a rather heavy material. Small blocks of aerated concrete or wooden blocks. It is best if the gaps between these blocks are minimal. All cracks should first be filled with a solution of cement or gypsum.

To ensure that the window sill does not hang in the air and is securely attached to the surface, screws are screwed from above onto the base at a distance of 30-40 centimeters. The caps of the screws should stick out as much as necessary so that the window sill fits tightly to the base of the window frame and does not hang in the air. To prevent the screw caps from falling inward, they are coated with plaster or cement around them. Then, it is applied to the plane construction foam. Particular attention is paid to the surface under the window, the rest of the space is filled evenly with foam.

After all the work has been completed, it is placed on top wood panel window sill, blown with foam at the seams. After a few days, the foam is cut off and the cracks are filled with sealant.

Installing a window sill on a plastic window with your own hands requires certain knowledge, therefore, carefully re-read the instructions and watch the training video before you begin.

Installing a window sill involves such basic types of work as: surface preparation, leveling, fastening the base, fastening the window sill, sealing the structure.