How to make a fabric stretch ceiling. DIY fabric ceiling: doing it right

Europe became acquainted with stretch ceilings in the second half of the twentieth century.

In the late 90s, similar technology came to the taste of countries former USSR. Since then, suspended ceilings have confirmed their status every year better design ceiling space.

Selection of suspended ceilings

The popularity of suspended ceilings among consumers is due to the numerous advantages of the product, including:

However, when talking about stretch ceilings, you should not rely only on positive characteristics.

Of course, there are also disadvantages, which we will talk about:

• high cost compared to other types of ceilings;
• Not robust design suspended ceilings - they are afraid of damage from sharp objects and chemicals;
• installation of certain types of suspended ceilings is complex and requires special skills. It is also worth mentioning here about bulky or scarce equipment;
• not all types of suspended ceilings are suitable for unheated rooms.

Attention: Installation difficulties and fear of temperature changes apply only to PVC (polyvinyl chloride) ceilings. Quite often you can come across judgments that they begin to sag some time after installation. With the right choice of material for ceilings, as well as following installation technologies, such problems are unlikely to bother the home owner.

Do-it-yourself fabric ceiling and its advantages

There are two types of suspended ceilings - PVC ceilings and fabric (seamless) ceilings. Comparing the installation of similar structures, it should be noted that the installation PVC ceilings differs in its complexity. Do-it-yourself fabric ceilings - relatively easy task. Such structures occupy about a third of the construction market for suspended ceilings. Of course, this is not accidental.

Let's talk about the advantages of fabric ceilings:

Ceiling installation: materials and tools

• construction stapler;
• drill or hammer drill - based on the wall material;
• drills (full set);
• spatula for fabric ceilings (fins);
• construction knife;
• scissors;
• levels – laser or water.

Materials required for installation:

1. calico – quantity, not less than the size of the room + 20 cm (additionally) on each side;
2. wooden blocks or glazing beads - their dimensions are 40x50 or 50x50 mm. The amount of material must match the perimeter of the room;
3. anchors - the same number as wooden blocks. The size and type of anchors are related to the thickness and strength of the material from which the walls are made;
4. assembly adhesive (the best option is to purchase shoe adhesive);
5. tracing paper;
6. glue for tracing paper;
7. PVA glue);
8. primer for calico;
9. dyeing agent for coloring calico - recommended to use acrylic paint or water emulsion;
10. plinth for the ceiling (baguette) – the quantity must match the perimeter of the room to hide the ceiling attachment points.

Attention: The article does not there is talk about availability sewing machine and a set of tools necessary for making the canvas. This is the task of the cutter, seamstress-motor operator and ironer. All you have to do is contact specialized workshops that will as soon as possible and for a reasonable price they will do all the work for you.

Installation of fabric stretch ceiling, watch the video:

DIY ceiling decoration with fabric

Stage 1. Marking the ceiling

Very responsible and important stage from the entire scale of work. Correct marking will completely affect the quality and correctness of installation ceiling structure. The first mark is fixed at a height of 5 cm from the ceiling, and then it is projected onto all the walls of the room. Based on the marking results, all walls of the room should have parts of a horizontal line.

Tip: The first mark will help eliminate unevenness and slopes of the ceiling and walls in the room. A special level must be used to designate it.

Stage 2. Install bars around the perimeter of the room

Installing glazing beads: drill a hole in the wall for the anchors. First of all, the glazing beads are numbered and given their serial number for installation. Next, a hole must be drilled in all the bars for attaching the anchor. Attach all the bars in order to the line marked on the wall. Then, based on drilled holes, project the marks onto the wall. This technique will help match the holes on the bars and walls. Install the selected type of anchors, and then fix the glazing beads on them.

Helpful information: You may be faced with the option of attaching glazing beads to a special profile for suspended ceilings. It should be remembered that in this case the glazing beads are fastened not end-to-end, but every 10 cm.

Stage 3. The process of securing the canvas

The stage requires at least two people. The need is due to securing the canvas without distortions. Installation work will not do without the use of a construction stapler and assembly adhesive. The glazing bead is covered with a layer of glue, after which a canvas is applied to it and pressed with a flipper at the corner where the bar meets the wall. Next, pull the blade by the free part, while holding the fin. As a result, the panel will stretch and it will be possible to fix it with a stapler. First of all, the canvas is fixed on the long wall rooms (from the middle to the edges). Next, you can move to the opposite wall. Make sure that dropped ceilings the fabric ones had no folds. Finally, the canvas is fixed on a narrow part of the room according to a similar principle: from the middle to the edges. If there are any excess edges of the attached fabric, simply cut them off.

Stage 4. Tracing paper

Tracing paper hides the connecting seams of the calico fabric. In the absence of such measures, the paint will not be applied evenly, but will hang out in bubbles. Ultimately, all the work will go down the drain, because the room will lose its aesthetic appeal. This stage of work is responsible and requires careful and thoughtful actions.

First of all, prepare special glue. Recipe: cook a paste (based on flour) and add PVA glue to it (30% of the mass of the paste). Next, the mass is diluted with water until thick and filtered. Applying glue - simultaneously on the canvas and on the tracing paper. It is best to bend the edges of the tracing paper and the overlaps - this will prevent them from sticking to each other. After the glue has dried, tear off the folded edges of the tracing paper. Moreover, in places where it is torn off, the tracing paper should become as thin as possible - as a result of which the seams will become invisible. Some experts recommend treating the seams sandpaper and PVA glue.

Stage 5. DIY fabric ceilings: chic and beauty

After waiting for the PVA glue to dry, we begin to prime the entire surface. After two hours, you can fix the baguette. After this, the ceiling is painted with 3 layers of paint.

Many people choose stretch fabric for the ceiling. This material has a number of advantages compared to film. But there are also disadvantages, one of which is a higher price. To reduce costs, you can install the canvas yourself. This article provides detailed instructions How to install fabric ceilings with your own hands. Some construction skills and an assistant will be required.

Features of fabric for suspended ceilings

For production, polyester fabric is used, which is impregnated with polyurethane. Properties are determined by the characteristics of the material. Fabric stretch ceilings withstand temperature changes from -50º to +100ºC. The fabric can be stretched to unheated rooms: verandas, gazebos, houses for temporary residence.

The maximum roll width is 5.1 m. This is enough to create a seamless ceiling in a room of standard sizes.

Polyester does not burn, does not electrify, does not emit harmful substances even when heated. Fabric fabric is much stronger than film. An accidental blow from a sharp object or a flying champagne cork will not damage the surface.

Disadvantages include poor color scheme- only about 20 tones. But the fabric can be dyed (up to 3-4 times), draw patterns or apply a decorative textured layer.

Polyester ceilings are more expensive than vinyl ceilings. But the canvas does not need to be heated for installation. Installing a fabric stretch ceiling is easy to do with your own hands. This will save you a lot of money.

The most popular manufacturers are:

• Clipso (France);
• Descor (Germany);
• Cerutti (Switzerland).

How the fabric is attached

A frame of profiles is fixed along the perimeter of the walls. For fabric take plastic baguette with a clip fastening, which in cross-section resembles the letter “A” with curved lower ends. The canvas is inserted between them and held using the principle of clothespins.

The baguette itself can be ceiling or wall. The first one takes up less height, but if the room is not too low, it is better to use the second option. As a rule, the base floor is not perfectly level, so wall mount It’s easier to set the ceiling level.

The fabric is fixed at a short distance from the edge, so it is purchased with a reserve. It is enough to add 10-15 cm from the length and width of the room. The excess is later trimmed off.

What is required for installation

In addition to the stretch ceiling kit, before starting work, you must prepare the following tools:

• stepladder;
• hammer drill or impact drill;
• screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver;
• hammer;
• laser or water level;
• hacksaw;
• pencil and tapping cord (can be replaced with a tape measure);
• construction or stationery knife;
• screws and plastic dowels;
• spatula with rounded ends.

To install lighting you will need:

• chandelier;
• built-in lamps;
• thermal rings of suitable diameter;
• wires;
• platforms or plywood or timber for mortgages.

Preparatory work

The surface of the rough ceiling does not need to be leveled. But if pieces of plaster, putty, etc. fall off, they will stick out unsightly tension fabric. And heavy parts can even damage the fabric. Therefore, the base ceiling is prepared before installation.

If the chandelier is already hanging, it needs to be removed. The apartment is first de-energized. The wires are removed from the ceiling.

Remains of paint and plaster are removed from the surface of the ceiling. If there is mold, the affected areas are removed. The surface is impregnated with a composition that will not allow the fungus to reappear. This is also useful for prevention. After drying, the ceiling is covered with a primer (preferably deep penetration). It strengthens the surface.

The next step is laying out the electrical wiring for lighting. The wires are laid in a corrugated pipe and secured with clamps and dowels. Putty is not used, as it may fall off later.

As a rule, a chandelier is used for lighting, sometimes in combination with built-in lamps. But the fabric will not support the chandelier, so a mortgage is being prepared for it. Take a piece of plywood or wooden block slightly larger than the chandelier mount. The mounting platform is mounted at such a height that the lower part is at the level of the future ceiling. If the thickness of the plywood or timber is sufficient, they are fixed with dowels. Otherwise, a frame is made from metal profile, which is attached to the ceiling. And a mortgage platform is screwed to its lower part. Recessed lights are also attached to pre-installed platforms.

Fastening baguettes

First you need to mark a place on the walls. Retreat from the rough ceiling:

• 10-15 cm if built-in lighting is planned;
• 3-5 cm if there is only a chandelier.

Markings are made at the corners with a pencil at the required height.

Using a level, achieve the same distance from the floor. So the ceiling will be completely horizontal.

Then the tapping thread is pulled along the wall along two marks and released. A straight line remains on the surface. The operation is repeated for the remaining walls. Holes are drilled along the line every 10-15 cm. After this, the profile is attached.

To get around the corners of the room, the baguette is cut with a hacksaw at an angle of 45 degrees. The profile joints must fit closely to each other. Sometimes baguettes are produced with holes for screws. If they are not there, you will have to drill them. Then the frame parts are attached to the walls with screws and plastic dowels.

Fabric stretching

The installation technology is simple, but it is much more convenient to work with an assistant. Installation of a fabric ceiling begins from the middle of the walls of the room. The material is carefully tucked into the baguette with a spatula, then the tool is removed.

The canvas is inserted in the corners in the same way. The entire ceiling is gradually stretched. This installation technology avoids distortions.

On next stage Excess fabric is trimmed from the edges. Small remnants of the canvas are tucked into a baguette. The stretch ceiling is ready.

On last stage install lighting fixtures. To protect the material from overheating, thermal rings are used, which are glued directly to the fabric. Then cut a hole for the wire. The lamp is fixed and connected.

Homemade fabric ceiling option

Specialized material may be too expensive or not suitable for other reasons. In this case it will be useful step by step guide for installing a homemade fabric ceiling.

For work you will need the following materials and tools:

• textile;
• planed timber (preferably 30x30 mm)
• drill and dowels;
• sealant;
• staples and a construction stapler for driving them in;
• masking tape;
• ceiling plinth and polyurethane glue;
• Chipboard or boards.

The fabric must be strong enough. It can be pre-painted (with acrylic) or a pattern can be applied using a stencil.

The factory width of the roll is about 2.8 m. If this is not enough for the entire ceiling, it is divided into zones. Wires can be laid between them. In addition, it will be more convenient to stretch the fabric not over the entire surface at once, but in parts.

Installation of fabric stretch ceilings begins with preparing the base. This stage is the same as in the previous case.

In the second step, a beam is attached around the perimeter and from the walls to the chandelier. Holes are first drilled in it every 40-50 cm. Then the part that will be adjacent to the surface of the ceiling is covered with sealant. This is done to protect against fungus and possible wood-boring insects. The beam is attached to the ceiling with dowels. It is placed in one row near the walls, and in two rows towards the center (with a distance of several centimeters).

Modern fabrics allow you to create unusual ceiling shapes and change any room beyond recognition. Let's look at what draping a ceiling with fabric is like, the features of fastening the fabric and popular decorating styles.

The content of the article:

Fabric ceiling- this is decorated with matter ceiling surface, which is considered an alternative way to design the ceiling. The main purpose of draping the ceiling with fabric is to add harmony to the interior and create coziness in the room. To get the desired result, follow certain rules on the selection of fabric and arrangement of the structure, which we will now get acquainted with.

Advantages and disadvantages of fabric ceilings

• Not required pre-treatment base base, because the canvas is usually attached at the edges and does not touch the surface of the ceiling.
• This is one of the few ways to decorate a ceiling that does not require construction skills.
• The fabric covers the unsightly appearance of the ceiling.
• Wiring, cables and communications can be attached to the base ceiling, which will then be covered with a sheet.
• The fabric ceiling has good heat-insulating properties.
• The false ceiling is not easily damaged, minor defects are invisible.
• A ceiling decorated with fabric turns into an exclusive work of art.

Design features of fabric ceilings

A tent-shaped ceiling looks good if the walls are decorated in the appropriate style. This type of drapery looks good when done independently. The tent covering significantly reduces the height of the ceiling near the walls and cannot be used in any room. For a better perception, it is advisable to take a photo of a fabric ceiling made in the shape of a tent.

Wave-shaped ceilings are made using additional suspensions. Any material is suitable for such structures, but it is better to use translucent and not very heavy types.

The method of installing a fabric ceiling “from the walls to the center” has many variations. For example, a canvas from soft material can be hung with slack or pulled tighter until large quantity flat folds. Usually a chandelier is placed in the center of the composition to create a semantic center.

Choosing fabric for ceiling drapery

The construction of a fabric ceiling is very simple: a fabric for creating a false ceiling and a frame for attaching it. Very often, the canvas is modified to install lamps, and slats, tubes or other elements are added to the base ceiling or frame to create a relief surface. Information on drapery fabrics and profiles is provided below.

Requirements for material for upholstery

There are practically no restrictions on the choice of fabric for drapery, but there is a practical side to the problem. The material for the ceiling must have the following properties:

1. Do not change the strength properties and appearance Under the influence sunlight.
2. Do not lose shape and color after numerous washes.
3. The material should not wrinkle too much.
4. Choose stretchy fabric.
5. Do not use materials that tend to “collect dirt.”
6. The choice of fabric type is also influenced by the user’s desire to use a material with certain properties.
7. Fabric made from natural ingredients (linen, cotton, wool) goes well with wooden elements premises. In addition to decorative functions, it has good heat and sound insulating characteristics.
8. Fabrics for drapery must be treated with antistatic and anti-allergenic agents and dust-repellent substances. After impregnation, the material is not afraid of sunlight and has a high degree of wear resistance. All types of fabrics - natural and synthetic - are subjected to this impregnation.

Types of fabric for ceiling drapery

• Linen. The coating turns out beautiful and solid. The canvas does not sag over time and does not stretch during installation. During cleaning, dust is quickly removed from the surface.
• Jacquard. Gives the room comfort and respectability.
• Fine silk. Always creates a feeling of sophistication and celebration.
• Cotton. Associated with calm.
• Chiffon. Used in bedrooms and children's rooms. It gives the ceiling lightness and airiness. The material does not stretch after installation, and dust does not collect on its surface
• Exotic jute. Helps create original styles.
• Beautiful matting. Combines with country style.
• Brocade. Material used for the ceiling bright colors. Noble heavy fabric is used to decorate a living room or hall.
• Herringbone fabric. Suitable for any design.
• Canvas. Brings a feeling of unshakable well-being.
• Velvet. Delights with luxury.

Some types of materials have sound absorption and water resistance properties, for example, leather, tapestries.

Color range of ceiling coverings

Colors are chosen depending on the purpose of the room:

1. If the color of the ceiling is darker than the walls, it will press and seem to hang over you.
2. Fabric with transverse stripes is stretched in narrow rooms. This design visually increases the space of the room, but reduces the height of the ceiling.
3. A ceiling with a longitudinal pattern or stripes increases the height of the ceiling.
4. A small pattern on the ceiling makes the room cozy.
5. Canvas with large patterns is not recommended for installation in small rooms.
6. Light ceilings create the illusion of enlargement internal space rooms, dense and dark colors create the opposite effect.
7. The red color of the canvas is uplifting, but may cause irritation for some people. Fabric of this shade is never used in rest rooms.
8. Yellow is good for the eyes and stimulates the nervous system.
9. In rooms with green ceilings you can relax and unwind. Green color It is considered a relaxant all over the world. It calms, reduces blood pressure and has a positive effect on heart rate.
10. It works well with blue ceilings, it takes away lethargy and apathy.
11. Purple color makes you think, but your eyes get tired quickly.

Preparatory work before upholstering the ceiling with fabric

• The fabric should be prepared before draping. Cut a small piece from the main fabric and measure it. Wet the material, dry it and measure again. If the size has not changed, you can begin draping the ceiling. When changing the size, the entire fabric should be decoated - wet, dried and ironed.
• It is advisable to use one piece of canvas to create a seamless ceiling. If it was not possible to purchase a wide fabric, the material is sewn together and then ironed, especially carefully at the joints.
• Before work, wrap the fabric around a long pole, this will make it easier to assemble the structure.
• It is best to install the ceiling with two people: one holds the roll, the second attaches the canvas to the frame or ceiling.

Fabric ceiling installation technology

The frame method involves mounting the structure on the floor and then attaching it to the ceiling. The frame is assembled from wooden or plastic slats. Typically this method is used to obtain flat designs or products with slightly sagging fabric. Frame ceiling can be attached to the ceiling using special devices. In this case, you can adjust the height of the ceiling. One of the varieties of fabric ceilings made frame method, is called boiserie. They are sold as ready-made fabric or leather panels that are made to order. The user can only attach the product to the ceiling.

Fastening fabric with slats involves the use of wooden or plastic bars measuring 30x40 mm, which are first attached to the ceiling without fabric. Wooden structures used in rooms, plastic ones - in the kitchen, bathroom or toilet. For drapery, fabric with a 20% margin is used. This is how tissue is fixed pastel shades with gilded or silver threads.

Fastening the fabric to the slats is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Secure the slats around the perimeter of the room near the walls using dowels and self-tapping screws.
2. Stretch the fabric from one wall to another, across the entire width of the room, check that there are no waves on the fabric.
3. Secure the canvas to the bars with staples, starting from the middle of the wall and moving towards the corners, gradually unwinding the canvas from the roll. For fixation, use staples No. 8, 10. Fill the staples often, so use an electric stapler.
4. After securing the canvas on one side of the room, move to the other. At the end of the work, the fabric should not sag.
5. Measure the gaps between the slats and the walls and cut them to size decorative panel from MDF.
6. Close the gap with the prepared panel. Traces from staples can also be disguised with braid, and instead MDF boards use ceiling plinth.

Silk fabric is most often fixed to the ceiling using the adhesive method. The process is similar to wallpapering, but the glue is applied only to the ceiling. Upholstery of the ceiling with fabric is performed in the following sequence:

• Smooth out surface unevenness with putty.
• If the ceiling is painted, sand the surface until rough.
• Clean the ceiling from dust and rinse with soda solution. When found dark spots paint them over so they don't show up later.
• Prime the surface.
• Apply a layer of special glue to the ceiling and give it a little time to dry.
• Next, press the canvas firmly against the ceiling and smooth it with a rubber roller. The next strip is glued in accordance with the pattern of the canvas.
• The fabric begins to be glued from the center of the room to the walls. If the material has a pattern, make sure it doesn’t get lost.

To obtain a ceiling in the form of waves or a sail, thin tubes or cords are attached to the ceiling or walls, and the canvas is thrown over them. Also, beautiful waves are obtained when the canvas is attached to the ceiling using Velcro.

Watch a video about draping the ceiling with fabric:

Stretch ceilings have entered our lives so tightly that, perhaps, a good half modern interiors can't do without installing them. And if stretching a ceiling from PVC film requires a rather expensive heat gun, then fabric stretch ceilings can be made without such a bulky and expensive tool.

In this article I will tell you how I made fabric suspended ceiling with my own hands in my apartment (and then at my mother-in-law’s, because she also liked it).

For this I needed:

• Hammer
• Level
• Dowels
• Self-tapping screws
• Screwdriver
• Special spatula
• Cable for lighting wiring
• Hangers for embeds
• Mortgages
• Terminal blocks
• Saw and miter box (for 45 degree angles)
• Baguette
• Fabric for stretch ceiling

A little theory

Read in detail about the types and properties of suspended ceilings.

A stretch ceiling is a fabric stretched over the entire area of ​​the room and attached to the walls or ceiling using a baguette - a special profile into which the edge of the fabric is inserted.

Naturally, special fabric and baguette are needed. The fabric I used was from Descor. The baguette is a wall one, that is, one that is attached to the wall, like this:

Ceiling installation

The next stage - installing the profile - is the most labor-intensive, dirty and unpleasant, but that's almost all that needs to be done). Using a level, I mark the horizontal line on the walls in the plane of the future ceiling. Then I secure the framing profile to the wall with self-tapping screws. It is necessary to fasten frequently, in increments of 7–10 cm, so that after stretching the fabric, a gap does not form between the baguette and the wall.

Well, you can move on to stretching the fabric. The fabric should be cut with a margin of 10 cm on each side. Unlike PVC ceilings, the fabric does not require any edges, edgings, sealing rings, etc. And, unlike PVC, we do not heat the fabric, and we start stretching not from the corners, but from the middle of the sides. It is more convenient, of course, to do the work together.

Starting from the middle of the first side, from the center to the corners, I tuck the fabric into the baguette. This can be done conveniently (and, in fact, necessary) with a special spatula. It does not tear the fabric, and the shape is designed for the operation of stretching the fabric into a baguette. I have a clipso spatula - it’s very convenient (I paid 1350 rubles for it, but it’s worth it).

After stretching, the excess fabric hangs along the wall. I go to the opposite side and secure the middle there. Then I fill the middle part of the remaining two sides, and move on to the corners. I make sure that the fabric is stretched well, without “waves” or folds. They say small wrinkles can be straightened out construction hairdryer, but I didn’t check, but did everything smoothly right away.

Where there are risers in the room, the fabric is cut to fit the pipes, and a plastic ring is installed to refine the edge of the hole.

When the entire ceiling is filled, I cut off the excess, leaving 1 cm for the final filling. Then, using the same spatula, I tuck the remaining 1 cm into the baguette.

This is what it looks like after refueling:

Why are many of us attracted to the opportunity to do the renovation, or at least part of it, ourselves? There are probably several reasons. This is a pleasant satisfaction from something done with your own hands. quality work, which can be shown to guests with special pride, and the opportunity to get exactly the kind of interior design and quality of finishing that invited specialists cannot do for some reason.

And most often it is the desire to achieve the desired result with the least financial cost. Look at the ceiling - isn't it time to tidy it up?

If such work seems difficult to you due to large differences in level, the need for dirty washing and puttying processes, do not despair: there is a much simpler, faster and cheap way make the ceiling absolutely smooth and clean with your own hands.

The idea is to do high-quality repairs materials accessible to everyone, using them in a non-trivial way.

Required materials and tools

No, we don’t need a construction supermarket yet - we’re going to a fabric store. That's right, because we will make the ceiling from curtain material. There are several important points here:

1. Curtain fabrics have standard height 2.8 or 3 m. Most rooms have several large sizes. Hence the conclusion - the panels will have to be sewn together. if you have sewing machine- this is a matter of a couple of minutes, if not, any studio will certainly help you. It is better to add two narrow stripes along the edges to make it symmetrical, but in general the seams are practically invisible on the finished ceiling.
2. The fabric can be any - matte or with a slight tint, colored, with patterns. This is especially true for children. But, if you have to make seams, choose a plain material.
3. If you want to avoid seams, you will have to build a plasterboard structure around the perimeter of the room so that the width of the material is enough to cover the remaining area. If you dreamed of two-level ceiling- this is a great chance to make your dream come true.
4. Length and width of the panel in finished form should be approximately 20 cm larger than the corresponding room dimensions.

The material for the tension has been purchased - now it’s time to take care of the fasteners. We need very little:

1. Plastic cable channels with a single lock, which are sold in any electrical goods store. There are also plastic tubes to protect the cables. We select cable channels and tubes of the same caliber, for example, 16 mm. The total length of each material is equal to the perimeter of the room.
2. Beam with a section of 25x30 or 25x40 mm. They can be of a different size, which depends on how many centimeters the ceiling plane needs to be lowered. The footage is also equal to the perimeter of the room.
3. Wood screws, small, for example, 16 or 19 mm, at the rate of 1 pc. for every 0.5 m of perimeter.
4. Plastic dowels and screws for them, the length of which depends on the cross-section of the beam. Quantity - 1 pc. on linear meter timber.
5. To give finished ceiling For a finished look, ordinary polyurethane foam baguettes are used. Their number can be easily calculated based on the footage of the remaining running materials.
6. Masking tape(paper).
7. Hook with thread for hanging a lamp.

Tools you will need: drill, screwdriver or screwdriver, wood saw, building level, tape measure and beating cord.

Installation of the fastening system

First you need to determine the location of the future ceiling. To do this, we use a building level and a painting cord to mark straight lines.

To understand what the drop in ceiling level will be, you need to make simple calculations: a + b = c, Where A- beam cross-section, b- caliber of cable channels and tubes, With- the height of the entire structure. For example, if we took 25x30 timber and 16 mm cable channels, the ceiling level will decrease by 46 mm.

Almost always, the geometry of our premises is far from ideal, and the walls may differ from each other in height. In order for our ceiling to be horizontal, we will have to measure the height of the walls; for this we measure each one in several places. We find the point where the wall is the lowest - at this place we retreat 30 mm from the ceiling and beat off a horizontal line through this point using a dye cord. We check the horizon with a building level.

To be sure that the markings are correct, we check: we connect the corners of the room crosswise with cords attached to the line. If the cords touch in the center, everything is fine. If they are at a distance or bend over each other, there are errors in the markings.

We prepare the beam: it must be attached along the broken line to the walls. We drill holes for screws in increments of about 1 m, mark points for drilling holes for dowels on the walls.

We remove the covers from the cable channels - we don’t need them. We attach the boxes to the beam from below in the longitudinal direction, departing 0.5-1 cm from the edge. In the corners we join them in a T-shape, with a gap of 2-3 mm. Fastening is done with small self-tapping screws in increments of about 50 cm. The screws are screwed into the “crossbar” of the U-shaped box.

Let's not forget about the lamp. Near the exit electric cable We attach a piece of timber to the ceiling into which we screw a hook. Its bend should be approximately 2 cm below the level of the future ceiling. We stretch two cords diagonally through the center of the room - we find the required level.

Fabric stretching

To make the fastener more reliable, it is worth carrying out one more preliminary. Plastic tubes are covered with paper tape. There is no need to try to do this very carefully - the more folds and creases there are, the better.

At this point, we can say that the main part of the work is done - the simplest and most pleasant things remain. Before stretching, it is recommended to thoroughly remove dust from the floor, walls and ceiling of the room so as not to stain the panel. It needs to be ironed to remove wrinkles. It would also be a good idea to lightly spray the fabric with an antistatic agent so that in the future the dust that appears in each room does not settle on the ceiling.

Stretching is easiest done with two or three people, although one person can do the job quite well. The edge of the panel is thrown over a plastic tube, which, together with the fabric, is inserted with light pressure into the groove of the cable channel and pinched in it. In this way, all edges of the ceiling material are raised and secured.

Now you need to stretch the fabric - you need to start from the middle of the wall and move gradually to the corners. With one hand the tube is held in the groove, the other hand pulls the edge of the panel down and towards the corner to gradually push all the folds there. Things will go faster if you pull two opposite sides of the perimeter at the same time. You need to pull firmly, but so that the tubes do not jump out of the grooves.

Before finally securing the fabric, you need to make a hole for the electrical cable and hook. It is clearly visible from below, as it stands out on the plane stretched fabric. The hole is made using any available device, such as a lighter. So we “kill” two birds with one stone - we make a hole and secure its edges so that the “arrow” does not run on the fabric.

When the hole is ready, remove the fabric from the fastener on one side of the room up to the hook, carefully pass the cable and hook through the hole, and then fasten the fabric back. Later the hole will close decorative cap lamp If you make a hole in advance, before tensioning, there is a danger of “missing”, and it will be more difficult to fit the hole to the hook. In addition, if you singe the edges of the hole in an unstretched state, when stretching there is a possibility that an “arrow” will still appear on the fabric.

Only the details remain. Carefully stretch the fabric again to remove all wrinkles. It would be a good idea to dampen the fabric with a spray bottle so that when it dries, it will stretch even more. To be sure of the reliability of the fastening, you can screw the screws directly through the tube to prevent it from rotating under the tension of the fabric. The pitch of the screws is about 0.5 m.

Masking fasteners

All that remains is to hide the fastenings using polyurethane baguettes. They are cut and glued to the wall in the same way as in a regular renovation, with the difference that they are not attached to the ceiling.

Before gluing, the hanging edge of the fabric must be rolled up and secured to the beam, for example, with tape or a stapler. It is better to use baguettes with symmetrical shoulders, i.e., having a cross-sectional shape of an angle with equal sides.

Painting of baguettes can be done in advance, or after installation. Then the ceiling panel needs to be protected with a long spatula.

Why do we need all this?

The ceiling is ready! Perfectly smooth, beautiful and... very inexpensive. The lion's share of its cost is fabric. If you have had renovations done before, it is quite possible that you still have extra scraps of building materials - you can use them and not spend money on buying timber. Every owner will probably also have screws and dowels.

1. The most inexpensive fabric for curtains costs about 200-300 rubles. We take 3.2 m, spend 960 rubles.
2. Cable channels and tubes cost about 10-12 rubles per linear meter. 11 meters will cost 132 rubles.
3. 25x30 timber is offered at a price of about 20 rubles. for a three-meter segment. Thus, lumber will cost us 80 rubles.
4. Self-tapping screws can be bought by weight; a handful of these fasteners will not cost more than 100 rubles. The same applies to dowels.
5. A regular molding for ceilings costs about 100 rubles. for a segment of 2 m. Accordingly, 6 shoulder straps - 600 rubles.

Let's do the math? To bring the ceiling into ideal condition we spent several hours and 1972 rubles. As they say, comments are unnecessary...

Of course, like most other ceiling repair methods, this method also has its own weak sides. The main one is the inability to wash the cloth without removing it. However, as you have already seen, this process is not very difficult. If the neighbors above behave peacefully, your ceiling will not be in danger!