How to make floors on the ground. Rough floor screed: types, benefits and step-by-step process of rough floor screed on the ground

by the most rational decision for an individual developer is the concreting of the floor on the ground in the form of a floating screed. When using other options (roofing along beams, PC slab), harmful radon can accumulate inside the underground, often there is no normal ventilation. Excess moisture leads to corrosion of concrete and biological damage to wood.

The device of the floor on the ground in a private cottage is often confused with pouring a monolithic floor with support on the plinth or foundation elements, when the bottom fixed formwork serves as a filled, but not compacted soil inside the MZLF tape. These are different technologies, the differences of which will be discussed below.

The developer should understand that for specific conditions, the design of the concrete floor on the ground (SG) should be chosen correctly, based on the conditions:

• floors on the ground, it is necessary to create a single base for laying the flooring;
• the design is a floating screed that does not come into contact with the walls of the building and does not start under them;

The confusion in the names of technologies occurs for the following reasons:

• the foundation is laid in the project, the width of which is greater than the thickness of the walls;
• enclosing structures are shifted outward ( inner surface plinth, grillage or MZLF tape does not coincide with the plane of the internal walls).

In this case, the developer tries to avoid the resulting step, raises the floor level, pours the screed, not only on the ground, but also rests it on the protruding parts of the foundation. Backfill MZLF or grillage in this case serves as a formwork, but is not properly compacted.

During operation, the soil under the slab or the foundation under the building itself can sag or rise by heaving forces. In the place where the slab rests on the base, serious loads occur that are not taken into account in the calculations. The screed bursts, the floor covering becomes unusable.

It is important to understand that when arranging a floating screed on the ground with your own hands, it rests on tightly packed soil, cannot sag and swell. Therefore, reinforcement with mesh in one layer in the lower third of the structure is sufficient. Slabs supported by foundation/plinth elements are always reinforced in two levels. Backfilling the foundation / basement in this option solves other problems:

• the developer gets rid of the underground, inside which it is necessary to provide natural ventilation, A low plinth does not allow you to make products in it, as they will be swept with snow in winter;
• the accumulation of harmful radon gas inside the underground, freezing of the soil under the cottage is eliminated and heat losses in the floors are reduced;
• formwork costs are reduced, since the lower deck is the earth, which does not need to be compacted with a vibrating plate.

There is a variant of floor construction on the ground with "support" on the foundation, but the support occurs through the foundation layer, while the soil must be well compacted, i.e. in fact, the floor does not rest on the foundation, because. due to the local collapse of the insulation at the place of support on the base, all movements are leveled. That is why for this design you should not take a heater high density.

Floor on the ground with "leaning" on the plinth.

The concrete floor on the ground has the following design:

• backfilling - the arable layer must be completely removed, soil excavated from the MZLF trenches can be used, but only with a minimum clay content, compacted with a vibrating plate in layers;
• underlying layer - necessary for additional leveling, recommended thickness 40 cm, created from sand (on dry soils) or crushed stone with geotextiles (at high groundwater level), compacted with a vibrating plate (every 10 - 15 cm);
• footing - a screed is necessary to protect the waterproofing material from punctures with sharp edges of rubble, it can be poured with lean (B7.5) concrete mortar;
• waterproofing - EPDM films, two-layer polyethylene or built-up bituminous roll material that prevents concrete from getting wet and corrosion of reinforcement inside it;
• insulation - it is enough to make a 5-10 cm layer of high-density polystyrene foam (XPS or EPS brand);
• reinforced concrete - reinforced with mesh in lower level screed made of concrete B15 and higher (corresponds to M200).
• damper layer - around the perimeter, the screed is separated from the walls, plinth or foundation with a special tape or insulation installed on the edge;
• expansion joint - necessary in the openings between the rooms, it is arranged by laying special elements (corners) when pouring the structure.

Scheme of the location of expansion joints.

This is the only correct design PG for a private cottage. However, individual developers often try to save on flooring on the ground, so the following options exist:

• expanded clay is used instead of soil in the backfill - the material is very difficult to compact, but it is light and has thermal insulation properties (but nevertheless it cannot replace the insulation layer), instead of concrete, the surface is shed with cement milk, which binds the top layer and makes it suitable for laying waterproofing;
• exception of footing - a layer of sand with a thickness equal to two sizes of the maximum fraction of crushed stone is laid on top of the crushed stone, after which the non-metallic material is compacted so that it does not leave marks from the workers' shoes, the waterproofing is laid on it, but is not glued, but sealed in places of overlap with each other .

In projects of a private dwelling, there are often partitions and free-standing structures that have a large weight (from 400 kg), which provide point concentrated loads.

Important! The floor on the ground is not a load-bearing structure, therefore, for stoves / fireplaces, internal stairs and heavy partitions, an independent foundation is required, which can be built into the floor on the ground or take the form of piles, slabs, pillars.

Foundation options for stairs.

Manufacturing technology

Before making a PG with your own hands according to the above scheme, it is not enough to know its design. It is necessary to take into account the nuances of construction at each stage, given below. The main misconception is the suitability of GHGs only for strip foundations of a private house.

In fact, a floating screed can be poured in houses with a low grillage on screw and bored piles, classic and TISE pillars. In this case, the thickness of the structure and its structure remain the same, and the SG is adjacent to the walls on the grillage.

Backfilling MZLF for the floor on the ground.

Preparation

The floor structure on the ground must have a base with normal bearing capacity. PG is made inside the grillage or MZLF, the beams of which rise above the ground, creating the basement of the foundation. Therefore, it will be correct to fill the internal cavities with soil taken out of the trenches of the strip foundation, leaving 0.4 m for non-metallic material.

In the presence of an arable layer containing a large number of organics, it needs to be removed. Even if the chernozem is compacted with a vibrating plate, after 3-12 months the organic matter in it will rot and the soil will definitely sag, which is extremely dangerous for concrete, even if reinforced, but not connected with the foundation.

Important! At this stage, processing waterproofing materials(plastered, welded or coated) elements of the grillage, plinth or foundation, if this has not been done before.

Communications

Unlike the foundation floating slab, the input nodes engineering systems mounted with their own hands before backfilling the underlying layer. The exact location of the walls is already known, since the grillage or MZLF has already been made. Therefore, it is impossible to make a mistake with the passage of risers in the immediate vicinity of the building envelope.

Even with the minimum thickness of the screed, the maintainability of communications inside the SG is practically zero. Therefore, the following technology is used:

• the water supply is deepened by 1 - 1.5 m, since the soil under the cottage cannot freeze (only for dwellings of all-season operation), the sewerage by 0.7 - 1 m, since the drains leave the house warm;
• pipes run in sleeves or corrugated pipe larger diameter so that when they fail, you can pull out part of the circuit from the outside or from the inside of the house and replace them with new ones;
• if necessary, a power cable can be brought into the cottage at a depth of 0.5 m, laying a red signal tape on top of it.

Communications inside the underlying layer.

It is possible to maximize the quality and resource of engineering systems in a private house by installing an underlying layer:

• for plumbing and sewer pipes trenches come off;
• geotextile is laid, the edges of which are attached to the sides of the working;
• 5 - 10 cm layer of sand / gravel is poured;
• communications are established;
• they are covered with the same non-metallic material from above and on the sides;
• covered with the remains of geotextiles and covered with soil.

This will compensate for possible heaving forces and maintain the integrity of engineering systems.

Underlayment

Backfilling of the upper layer with non-metallic material refers to a technology that makes it possible to eliminate heaving forces. Crushed stone and sand have drainage properties, serve as a damper layer of the floor on the ground, are normally compacted by a vibrating plate and do not sag over time.

Sand preparation of the floor on the ground.

However, these materials absorb cement laitance from concrete and do not allow the joints to be properly sealed. roll waterproofing. Therefore, on top of the underlying layer, it is necessary to pour the footing - 3 - 5 cm screed from a mixture of grade B 7.5.

Waterproofing and insulation

After the foundation has gained strength, rolled bituminous materials are welded onto its surface with an overlap of strips of 10–15 cm. The edges are launched onto the vertical surfaces of the grillage or strip foundation of a private cottage to the floor height on the ground.

Waterproofing and warming of PG.

The optimal insulation option for the considered SG design is high-density extruded polystyrene foam of XPS or XPS grades. It does not sag, retains properties in water and has high vapor barrier properties.

Important! With the specified "pie" of the floor on the ground, the insulation remains under the concrete, the design has a high thermal inertia (accumulates heat, but also increases the energy consumption in the heating boiler during initial heating).

Reinforcement and underfloor heating

Due to the fact that the concrete floor on the ground perceives only compressive loads, its lower layer must be reinforced to compensate for the destruction from tensile forces. For this, a wire mesh of rods with a diameter of 4 mm with a cell of 10 x 10 cm is used, according to SP 63.13330 (reinforced concrete structures).

Reinforcement of the floor on the ground.

According to the regulations of the above joint ventures, SG concreting should be carried out in compliance with the following conditions:

• lower protective layer of concrete 1.5 cm minimum;
• to ensure it, the grid is laid on polymer or concrete bosses; it is forbidden to use metals and crushed stone;
• when building up the mesh, the overlap is at least 10 cm (one cell).

If the project includes a warm floor (TP), its contours are laid on top of the reinforcing mesh, the thickness of the floating screed automatically increases.

concreting

• the mesh must not be cut;
• to pass the bars through the partition, you will have to cut the required number of grooves in the shield;
• set the formwork in place and foam the remaining cracks;
• nail a beam on one side of the partition to create a ledge in the concrete for bonding with the next piece of screed.

Before pouring, a damping layer is required. To do this, along the perimeter of the SG, pieces of thin (1 cm) polystyrene foam are installed vertically close to the foundation of a private cottage, protruding beyond the design level of the floor, or the perimeter is pasted over with a damper tape that performs the same function.

Damper layer for floating screed.

The mixture is laid from the far corner to the concrete mixer with a ledge. Then it is compacted with a vibrating screed, leveled by the rule along the beacons.

Technology nuances

The strength of floors on the ground is affected by the brand of concrete, the sequence of operations and the materials used. However, there are common features when concreting junction points, platforms for supporting heavy structures and light partitions.

Junction nodes

In order to minimize heat loss in the floors with your own hands, the insulation on the outer edge of the basement and foundation must be connected to the heat-insulating material inside the walls or on their outer surface (ventilated facade or wet facade) without cold bridges.

Insulation of the wall and plinth to eliminate cold bridges.

Partitions and walls

Since floors on the ground are not a load-bearing structure, under bearing walls and heavy partitions need to pour a separate foundation. Another option is stiffeners along these walls, directed towards the ground, by analogy with the Swedish UWB slab.

A rather difficult case are partitions made of plasterboard on the floor on the ground:

• on the one hand, the steam generator must be separated from the partition with a damper layer, that is, a screed must be made after the installation of the partition;
• on the other hand, drywall systems should be erected after the end of wet processes, otherwise the material will absorb moisture and lose rigidity and strength.

Therefore, a combined technique is used:

• a profile frame is mounted on the foundation;
• a narrow strip of drywall is attached, the width of which is equal to the height of the floating screed;
• a damper tape is glued to it or expanded polystyrene is installed;
• a screed is poured, after drying of which the partitions are sheathed with drywall completely.

Installation of a framework for a partition.

This avoids getting wet drywall when concrete dries and preserves the properties of structural materials.

Ladders and power equipment

The internal structures of a building can be of considerable weight and exert concentrated loads on small areas. Therefore, for fireplaces, interfloor stairs, pumping equipment, furnaces and boilers, it is necessary to make a separate foundation or increase the thickness of the floor slab along the ground.

Thus, an individual developer can apply floor-on-ground technology for a low grillage and MZLF tape in order to reduce the construction budget and operating costs, and increase living comfort.

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Floors on the ground - a universal way to build a warm and reliable foundation in the house. And you can do them at any level of groundwater and the type of foundation. The only limitation is the house on stilts. In this article, we will describe in detail all the layers of the "floor pie" and show how to organize it yourself.

Concrete floors on the ground, imply no basements or gaps for ventilation in the underground.

At its core, this is a multi-layer cake. Where the bottom layer is the soil, and the top layer is the floor covering. At the same time, the layers have their purpose and a strict sequence.

There are no objective restrictions for organizing the floor on the ground. High groundwater is not a hindrance in this. Their only weak point is the production time and financial costs. But on such floors you can put brick or block walls and even heavy equipment.

The correct "floor cake" on the ground

The classic floor cake on the ground implies the presence of 9 layers:

1. prepared clay;
2. sand cushion;
3. crushed stone;
4. Polyethylene film;
5. Rough concreting;
6. Waterproofing;
7. insulation;
8. Finishing screed;
9. Flooring.

We deliberately did not indicate the thickness of each layer, so as not to set any strict restrictions. Below, approximate values ​​\u200b\u200band the factors influencing it will be indicated. But first we would like to point out the very important point: groundwater levels can change dramatically in a relatively short period of time.

In our practice, there were cases when, within 5-7 years, dry semi-basements and cellars in private houses had to be filled up, because groundwater completely flooded the underground premises. At the same time, such a phenomenon was observed not in one separate house, but immediately in the whole block of private buildings (40-60 houses).

Experts explain such phenomena by improper drilling of wells under water. Such actions lead to mixing of water-bearing lenses, fracturing of formations and change aquifers. Moreover, they can drill a well far enough from your home. So be careful about the purpose of each layer of the floor cake on the ground and do not think that there are extra elements here.

1. prepared clay. The purpose of this layer is to stop groundwater. In general, the three lower layers of the floor cake are for this purpose. Of course, if you, removing the fertile layer, have reached the layer of clay, then you do not need to bring and fill it up, only a little preparation is required. But more about that in due time.
2. Sand. There are no special requirements for sand. You can use any, for example career and not even washed.
3. Rubble. Large, fraction 40-60 mm.

These three layers are responsible for cutting off the capillary rise of water. A layer of clay cuts off the main access, sand weakens the capillary water rise and weakens the pressure of the upper layers, and crushed stone does not allow water to rise in principle. At the same time, each layer must be rammed. The thickness of each layer is at least 10 cm. Otherwise, it makes no sense to fill it up. But the maximum height should be explained in more detail. The fact is that tamping is most often done makeshift gadgets. The weight of such instruments is 3-5 pounds.

It has already been empirically proven that to compact a layer of rubble, sand or clay more than 20 cm. hand tool impossible. Therefore, the thickness of one of the first three layers is maximum - 20 cm. But, if you need to make the floor cake higher, then tamping can be carried out in two stages. First, 15-20 cm of sand are poured and rammed well. Then another layer of the same thickness is poured, and rammed again.

The order of occurrence of clay-sand-gravel layers cannot be changed. The reason here lies in the fact that if sand is poured on top of rubble, then after some time it will seep through it. Which in turn will lead to subsidence and destruction of the concrete layer, and then the deformation of the entire floor.

1. Polyethylene film. Be sure to take the film with a sleeve, and fit without cutting. That is, there will actually be two layers of polyethylene. It is intended solely to prevent the solution from draining from concrete into rubble.
2. Rough concreting. Minimum Thickness layer 8 cm. Sand can be taken from a quarry, but always washed. But crushed stone is required with a fraction of 10-20 mm. This layer will be the basis for the final part of the floor on the ground. Dispersed steel fiber reinforcement is recommended.
3. . When done correctly preliminary work, an ordinary roofing material without powder can cope with waterproofing. If in doubt, you can lay the roofing material in two layers.
4. Thermal insulation. It is recommended to use only Extruded Polystyrene Foam (EPS) here. The thickness should be determined depending on the region and climatic conditions. But we do not recommend the use of XPS with a thickness of less than 50 mm.
5. Finishing stitch. Depending on the project, underfloor heating pipes or electrical underfloor heating cables can be integrated into it. Sand is used only river. This layer must be reinforced. Dispersed reinforcement with steel fiber is possible. The thickness of the screed is at least 50 mm.
6. Flooring. Concrete floors on the ground, organized in a private house in this way, have no restrictions on the use of flooring.

Do-it-yourself flooring on the ground

Before starting work, calculate the depth of excavation. The calculation is carried out in reverse order. That is, the threshold is taken as zero front door. Then begin to summarize the thickness of each layer. For example:

• Linoleum - 1 cm;
• Finishing screed - 5 cm;
• Insulation - 6 cm;
• Rough screed - 8 cm;
• Crushed stone - 15 cm;
• Sand - 15 cm;
• Prepared clay - 10 cm.

The total depth turned out to be 60 cm. But keep in mind that we took minimum values. And each building is different. Important: add 5 cm of depth to the result obtained for you.

Excavation is carried out to the estimated depth. Of course, that the fertile layer will be removed, but clay may not always be at the bottom. Therefore, we will describe the process of organizing a floor cake on the ground in full.

Before filling the layers, draw with chalk, at all corners of the foundation, level marks in 5 cm increments. They will facilitate the task of leveling each layer.

Soil compaction

For these purposes, any clay will do. It crumbles in an even layer, and is abundantly moistened before tamping. aqueous solution liquid glass. The proportions of the solution are 1 tsp of liquid glass and 4 tsp of water.

For compacting the first three layers, you can use a one and a half meter piece of timber 200x200. But the process will be better if you make a special fixture. For this, to a one and a half meter segment metal pipe, T-shaped weld a piece of the channel. The lower part of the channel should not have an area of ​​​​more than 600 cm 2 (20 by 30 cm). To make the rammer heavier, sand is poured into the pipe.

The compacted layer of prepared clay is well moistened with cement milk. For its preparation, 2 kg of cement is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Make sure that no puddles form on the surface of the clay. That is, it should be fairly even.

Almost immediately after the contact of the cement with liquid glass the chemical process of crystallization begins. It passes quickly enough, but during the day it should not be disturbed in any way crystal formation. Therefore, do not walk on clay, but rather leave work for a day for a technological break.

The main layers of the "floor pie"

Sand. After a day, you should start filling the sand. At the same time, try not to walk on the first layer. Pour in the sand and step on it. Chemical processes between liquid glass and cement will continue for another week and a half. But air access is no longer needed for this, and water is present in the clay. Having poured a layer of 15 cm, boldly step on it and tamp.

Rubble. Spreads evenly over the surface of the sand and is also rammed. Pay attention to the corners. It is very important that after tamping the surface is as even as possible.

Polyethylene film. Laid with an overlap of 10 cm and glued with adhesive tape. A small, 2-3 cm bend on the walls is allowed. You can walk on the film in soft shoes with extreme caution. Remember that a plastic film is not, but only a technological layer to prevent cement milk from flowing into crushed stone.

Rough concreting.“Skinny concrete” is being prepared in the following proportion: cement M500 - 1 hour + sand 3 hours + crushed stone 4 hours. For dispersed reinforcement, steel fiber should be added at the rate of 1 kg. fibers per 1 cube of concrete. Try to level the freshly poured mortar, guided by the corner marks. On a more even surface, it will subsequently be more convenient to lay layers of waterproofing and insulation.

48 hours after pouring, the concrete must be hardened. This will require a solution of liquid glass in water (1:10) and cement. First, the solution is passed over the entire surface. You can use a roller, or you can use a spray gun. Then concrete is powdered with a thin layer and immediately begins to be rubbed into the cement into the surface. It is most convenient to do this with grout.

This procedure increases the strength of concrete by an order of magnitude, and in combination with liquid glass makes it as waterproof as possible. Concrete will mature within a month and a half, but work can begin on the next stage in a week.

Warming and waterproofing

To create a waterproofing layer, the floor surface is cleaned and treated with liquid bitumen. The roofing material is overlapped, with an allowance of 3-5 cm. The joints are carefully soldered using a building hair dryer. Wall allowance 5 cm. IMPORTANT: Make sure that the roofing material adheres to the corners, do not leave voids. The second layer of roofing material is laid with an offset of half the width of the roll. During waterproofing work, it is best to walk on the surface in shoes with soft soles (sneakers, galoshes).

For thermal insulation, the most the best option- extruded polystyrene foam. A layer of XPS 5 cm thick replaces 70 cm of expanded clay. And additionally, XPS has a practically zero water absorption coefficient and a rather high compressive strength. We recommend laying 3 cm thick XPS in two layers. In this case, the laying of the top layer is carried out with an offset. This method guarantees the absence of cold bridges and increases thermal insulation properties floor pie. The joints between the XPS boards are glued with special adhesive tape.

Proper thermal insulation of the floor cake is an extremely important component for the energy efficiency of the whole house as a whole. Up to 35% of heat escapes through the floors! Even if the floors themselves will not produce heat (warm floors), they must be thermally insulated as much as possible. This will allow you to save on heating in the future quite impressive amounts.

Floor screed

Glue along the room, 15-20 mm thick. In this case, the lower part must be glued to the XPS boards. To reinforce the floor on the ground in residential premises, a masonry mesh with cells of 100x100 mm is used. Wire thickness 3 mm. The grid must be placed on the supports so that it is approximately in the middle of the screed layer. To do this, it is placed on special stands. But you can use ordinary corks from PET bottles.

The installation of beacons is possible, but in combination with a reinforcing mesh, this will create a rather bulky and extremely fragile structure. After all, if the mesh is rigidly fastened, this will require additional costs for fastening and it will be necessary to violate the integrity of the XPS. And if the reinforcement is not fixed, then it can easily change the levels of the beacons. Therefore, it will be more convenient to pour this layer and then level it with a self-leveling screed.

For the finishing screed, the solution is diluted in the proportion of 1 part M500 cement + 3 parts river sand. Work is carried out promptly. For rough leveling of the surface, you can focus on the corner marks.

After pouring the finishing screed, it must be allowed to gain strength within 3-5 days. With a thickness of 5 cm, the maturation period of this layer will be 4-5 weeks. During this time, regular wetting of the surface with water is required.

Acceleration of the cement hydration process is unacceptable! After about a month, you can check the degree of readiness. To do this, in the evening they take a roll of dry toilet paper, put it on the floor and cover it with a pan on top. If in the morning toilet paper will be dry, or slightly damp, then the layer is ready. You can level the floor with a self-leveling screed.

Self-leveling screed is spread according to the manufacturer's instructions and poured onto the surface of the concrete floor. With scrupulous performance of work, height differences do not exceed 8-10 mm. Therefore, a minimum amount of self-levelling screed is required. It dries pretty quickly. And after 1-2 days, the floor cake on the ground will be completely ready for laying the flooring.

Strip foundation, lack of a basement, low groundwater level - these conditions are enough to choose ground concrete floors in a private house.

To call such a solution simple and easy it is forbidden, but it allows you to save money due to the absence of floor slabs and reduce the load on the basement unit (therefore, the foundation can be made “lighter”).

Floors on the ground: starting with the protection of the foundation

Most sources cite as a mandatory requirement the occurrence of groundwater no higher than 4-5 meters(sometimes even two). And this is the level of occurrence top water, which is seasonal and located above water-resistant layers. That is, these are ordinary sedimentary waters that did not have time to seep into lower and permanent aquifers (“on sand” and “on lime”).

Summer and winter perch disappears and reappears in spring and autumn. Even if the site is located in the “critical” zone, then it can be effectively dealt with (if it is not infiltration water seeping through the ground from a nearby reservoir).

The first condition for preventing flooding with perch water is drainage.

It is necessary to "help" the sedimentary water to penetrate through the layers of soil that have water-resistant properties (loam). These measures are fundamental for such areas, even from the point of view of protecting the foundation during the rainy season and snowmelt. It is not difficult to do this - several wells are drilled along the perimeter of the house with a diameter of up to 15 cm and a depth below the heel of the foundation.

Then insert drainage pipe just below the ground level (it is better to wrap it with a filter cloth - this will prevent it from silting) and crushed stone of a fine fraction is poured inside. The hole is covered with waterproof materials, covered with earth from above or covered with a piece of turf.

There are more difficult option with the arrangement of trenches, in which the same pipes are laid on a pillow of sand and gravel and brought down to a drainage well.

The second condition is foundation waterproofing.

In conditions of pressure exposure to water, the most effective will be a combination of several methods.

First, the outer walls of the base are treated with a bituminous primer, and rolled materials are glued onto it. The correct technique is a horizontal arrangement from the bottom up, overlapping, but a simpler one is vertical.

Bonding occurs due to heating blowtorch the inside of the sheet. They protect the waterproofing with a clay castle, which itself serves as a barrier to water. If the impact of perched water is short-lived, and the precipitation in the region is not abundant, then you can limit yourself to coating waterproofing.

And of course, to the mandatory measures to protect against water, it is necessary to add a blind area (20 cm wider than the projection of the edge of the roof) and a drainage system.

Floors on the ground: foundation for a concrete floor on the ground

In principle, flooring on the ground is a common technology for basements, basements, outbuildings (sheds, garages). A significant difference can only be the device of a “warm” floor in a screed, and the arrangement of a reliable foundation, waterproofing and passive insulation is carried out in any case. Floors on the ground

No matter how reliable the waterproofing of the foundation and drainage measures are, the soil has its own moisture, and water can rise up through natural capillaries. Therefore, it is necessary to protect the floor from these factors as well.

In the context of the floor device on the ground is a multilayer cake.

The basis for the entire structure should be a flat and dense area without vegetation residues, root system and construction debris. "Reference point" for determining the volume earthworks take the threshold level.

The thickness is subtracted from it. finish coating and the thickness of all layers of the concrete floor on the ground (it is only the base for residential premises).

After the site is cleared and leveled, its base must be compacted. The simplest "rammer" is a log cutter with a transverse handle, more than modern way- vibration machine.

Floors on the ground: to improve the insulating properties

the next layer can be done from clay. For wells, a clay castle thickness of at least 20 cm is recommended, for artificial reservoirs 8-12 cm, the same parameters are chosen for adobe floors, but here you can limit yourself to a more modest value of 5-6 cm.

The next layer is sand. Many, by inertia, advise choosing river or washed seeded sand, but this is redundant - ordinary quarry sand is suitable for a pillow (this is not the manufacture of concrete and clay impurities do not affect strength characteristics). This layer is watered and compacted.

Then a layer of crushed stone of medium or fine fraction is poured. It interrupts the capillary rise of water from the ground. He is also rammed.

The thickness of each layer is usually chosen from 5 to 10 cm, with a total size of up to 20 cm.

It is possible to use expanded clay (it is a good bulk heat-insulating material), but this is only if the possibility of water ingress is excluded - it swells under its influence. For dry soils, you can limit yourself to only a pillow of sand, but for the floor in the basement, it is permissible to use a pillow of two layers of crushed stone - first a large fraction, and then a fine one.

A dense plastic film is laid on top of the rubble with a stop on the walls.

It serves not for waterproofing, but as necessary condition correct hydration of the first layer of concrete.

First pour lean concrete, which does not perform load-bearing functions, but serves as the basis for waterproofing and laying thermal insulation materials. Builders call it "concrete" or "rolled" (it fits easily). The percentage of cement in it is usually less than 2 times due to increasing the proportion of filler- for example, instead of the ratio 1:3:3 (cement, sand, crushed stone), the proportions 1:3:6 are used.

Since this layer is not taken into account when ensuring the overall strength of the concrete floor for a private house, its reinforcement is not necessary.

A layer of 6-8 cm is enough.

Important! In the manufacture of concrete, river or washed sand should be used.

After pouring, the concrete must be compacted and leveled. Jewelry accuracy, as for a screed, is not necessary, but alignment with beacons is necessary for high-quality laying of slab insulation. Floors on the ground

Then a break is needed for the concrete to gain strength. The first week is very important - for hardening (hydration) of the solution, it is necessary to create a high level of humidity. That is why a film is needed at the base - so that water does not go into the sand and gravel, does not soak into the walls. Periodically, the surface is moistened with water. Better yet, cover with wet burlap. Ideally (at a temperature of 20°C and normal humidity), concrete gains 70% of its design strength in the first 7 days, and 100% in four weeks.

To continue the work, it is enough to withstand a week.

When using hardening accelerator modifiers, 3 days are enough (sometimes even one day, but such additives ultimately significantly affect the quality of the concrete stone).

Floors on the ground: waterproofing.

It is mandatory for the first floors, especially in floor conditions on the ground. The use of polyethylene (of any density) is best left for the floors of city apartments (and even then not in the bathroom or in the kitchen). Right choice- this is a rolled insulation with bituminous impregnation.

The surface cleaned of dust is treated with a bituminous primer (primer), and roofing material (or one of its analogues) is laid on top. They do this in two layers, with the seams offset (filling them with bitumen) and reaching the walls above the floor level.

At this stage, the preparation of the base for insulation and pouring the screed ends.

Concrete floor on the ground: floor insulation

To insulate a concrete floor, three options are most often used - expanded clay, expanded polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam.

As already noted, only with reliable waterproofing is it possible to use expanded clay - when moisture gets in, it swells. The thickness of the layer can vary between 10-20 cm.

Foam insulation is best done in two layers, each of which should be displaced in relation to each other. It is desirable to offset the seams between the rows. This will increase the strength of the insulation layer itself, and, as a result, the screed - if the seams coincide, the risk of cracks in this place increases. Styrofoam sheets should be fitted as closely as possible to each other, and it is best to use foam with ends that have a tongue-and-groove profile.

Treat joints with adhesive.

The EPPS insulation technology is the same as for polystyrene foam. The material differs in its high compressive strength and the almost complete absence of water absorption (it itself is a good waterproofing material).

Important! Floor insulation is effective if the basement is insulated.

Floors on the ground: screed

Filling the floor on the ground ends with a screed. Then it remains to lay the finishing layer: wooden floors, laminate, linoleum, etc.

Although for service premises (garage, basement, pantry) it is possible to make topping of the concrete surface at the pouring stage (this significantly increases strength and prevents dusting).

The screed over the insulation must necessarily have reinforcement.

For residential premises with light surface loads, it is sufficient to install a road mesh with a link size of 10 × 10 cm and a wire thickness of 3-4 mm.

You can use galvanized steel mesh, but polymer

or composite

behaves better in the alkaline environment of concrete, as well as .

The mesh is not fastened to the walls, but a compensation gap of at least 20 mm is left. You can use a block of wood or scraps of foam, which are then removed, and the gap is filled with an elastic sealant.

The laying of the mesh overlaps in two cells, the fastening between the sheets is made with wire.

Floors on the ground: reinforcement

runs at some distance from the floor surface (approximately 1/3-1/2 layers of screed). To do this, you can use pieces of brick or rubble, plastic bottle caps or special coasters.

The thickness of the screed for residential premises must be at least 50 mm.

Both types of concrete (cement-sand) screed can be used - classic or semi-dry.

1. Introduction. When can I make a concrete floor on the ground in a private house. (Fig. 1)

When can I make a concrete floor on the ground in a private house

In this article will be discussed on how to make a concrete floor on the ground in a private house with our own hands, we will also consider in detail the layers that make up the concrete floor and the features of their device. Issues related to the installation of the floor in a private house are fundamentally different from pouring a concrete floor in apartments on a ready-made base from floor slabs. When arranging the floor in a private house, it is important to take into account not only your own preferences or the type of foundation, but also such an indicator as the proximity of groundwater. ("Construction of monolithic houses and cottages", "Construction of suburban dachas, using frame technology", "Low-rise housing construction and design basics", "Construction of a house using frame-frame technology", "Features of the construction of monolithic houses").

The concrete floor can be poured with any type of foundation (of course, we are not talking about houses on piles raised above the ground). ("Build a house on your own. we start with the foundation", "Strip foundation for a house with your own hands", "Pillar foundation", "Pile foundation"). If we don’t go into particularly intricate building terms and theories (we will take as a basis the fact that we are studying the possibility of making the floor with our own hands without involving construction teams), then we can highlight the following points that affect the choice of concrete floor design. Namely:

* depth of groundwater;

* the presence of heating in the floor;

* future loads on the floor surface (for example, installation of additional brick interior partitions). ("Some features of brick walls", "Installing a plasterboard partition"). (Fig. 2)

Namely: * depth of groundwater; * the presence of heating in the floor; * future loads on the floor surface (for example, installation of additional brick interior partitions) (Some features of brick walls, Plasterboard partition installation)

2. "Pie" of a concrete floor on the ground in a private house. (Fig. 3, 4)

2 "Pie" concrete floor on the ground in a private house

* We determine the level of groundwater flow by two methods. (Fig. 5)

* We determine the level of groundwater flow by two methods

So, we turn to the consideration of the layers of the future concrete floor in the house. In order to fill the floor with your own hands, you will need to study the depth of the groundwater level. Here you need to be as accurate as possible. If you have owned a plot of land for several generations, then most likely you already know the height of the groundwater.

In case of purchase land plot in an unfamiliar area, there are two ways to determine the level of water occurrence - professional and folk. In accordance with the first method, you need to order the geology of the site in a company specializing in such work. Of course, such work will require certain, and possibly not small, funds, but you will be able to see the soil of your site in the context and you will know for sure its composition and the location of groundwater.

In accordance with the second method (folk), everything is much simpler on the material side, but more difficult on the part of the efforts made. The first thing to do is to get to know your neighbors and ask old-timers and owners of new buildings about the level of groundwater. The more opinions you hear, the more objectively you can draw conclusions from the information received. The next step will be drilling wells on a site in several squares. It is enough to find out about the level of groundwater at a depth of two meters from the foundation laying surface, so calculate the depth of the wells using the formula

2 m + foundation depth = minimum well drilling depth.

Taking into account the fact that the foundation (without the device ground floor) averages one meter, then wells to determine the depth of groundwater can be drilled with a hand drill.

When determining the groundwater level (GWL), it is important to remember two more points. First - the GWL value closest to the surface is taken from all those obtained in the area. Secondly, one should also take into account the "upper water" seasonal rise of ground groundwater levels. And in the latter case, you cannot do without information from the old-timers. (Fig. 6)

And in the latter case, you can’t do without information from old-timers

* The list of layers of the "pie" of the concrete floor on the ground.

This subclause lists the required and possible layers that make up the "pie" of the concrete floor. More broadly, each layer will be described below. This list has been presented with short explanations for a better understanding of what are the layers of concrete floor on the ground and their order. (Fig. 7)

This list has been presented with short explanations for a better understanding of what are the layers of concrete floor on the ground and their order.

3. The device is a rough screed with mandatory waterproofing and possible reinforcement.

5. Laying a layer of insulation.

6. Performing a finishing screed with mandatory reinforcement.

3. Detailed description of the layers of creating a concrete floor on the ground. Choice of materials.

After reviewing the full list of laying possible layers when installing a high-quality concrete floor on the ground, you can proceed to a wider study of them. Let's consider them in the same order as they were presented in the previous subsection.

1. The soil inside the future building is edged with a foundation.

This layer is actually well-packed land on which the house is built. Compaction (consolidation) of the soil is required to increase its bearing capacity and avoid possible drawdowns and failures. . (Fig. 8, 9)

Compacting the soil manually can be done using a self-propelled compacting device (a heavy metal drum rotating on a long frame - a handle, if materials are available, it can be made independently), as well as using pneumatic and electric rammers (they can be purchased or rented from specialized firms)

Compacting the soil manually can be done using a self-propelled compacting device (a heavy metal drum rotating on a long frame - a handle, if materials are available, it can be made independently), as well as using pneumatic and electric rammers (they can be purchased or rented from specialized firms)

2. One or more layers of bedding from one or different materials.

Backfill is used to prevent (interrupt) the penetration (lift) of moisture up to the floor surface. This layer consists of a polyethylene film laid on the entire space of the future floor, a layer of sand (from 7 to 10 cm) and a layer of crushed stone of the same thickness with a coarse fraction of 30 - 50 mm. Both layers, like soil, are carefully compacted. (Fig. 10)

Both layers, like soil, are carefully compacted.

Sometimes crushed stone is taken to be replaced with a layer of expanded clay, while arguing that thanks to a larger layer of this material, it is possible not even to lay insulation in the future. This is partly true, and partly not. It is possible to replace crushed stone with expanded clay only if the groundwater level lies below two meters in depth relative to the foundation laying point, and the expanded clay layer performs the function of a leveling, and not a waterproofing layer.

As for the use of expanded clay as a heater, there is such a nuance as the thickness of the layer. So, for example, to replace a layer of insulation made of extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 5 to 10 cm, a carefully compacted layer of expanded clay with a thickness of 70 to 100 cm will be required. expanded clay insulation is not recommended.

The use of broken bricks and other construction debris instead of crushed stone is generally not acceptable. Such a layer has an extremely weak bearing property, which during the operation of the house can lead to the destruction of the entire floor.

3. The device is a rough screed with mandatory waterproofing and possible reinforcement. (Fig. 11)

Rough screed device with mandatory waterproofing and possible reinforcement

On top of the laid and compacted bedding, another layer of polyethylene film is laid and a layer of rough screed is poured. The thickness of this layer is on average 10 cm. In contrast to the bedding layer, crushed stone with a finer fraction of approximately 5 - 10 mm is used in the rough screed. It is also important to remember that the sand must be sifted and better than river sand. How to make a screed mortar, which cement is preferred and in what proportions the components should be mixed, is described in the following article: "Methods for leveling the floor". (Fig. 12)

How to make a screed mortar, which cement is preferred and in what proportions the components should be mixed, is described in the following article: Floor leveling methods

4. Laying a layer of waterproofing (if necessary).

As a waterproofing, roofing material laid in a couple of layers is most often used. Now a few words about in which cases waterproofing is generally required, and in which it is not. (Fig. 13)

Now a few words about in which cases waterproofing is generally required, and in which it is not.

Waterproofing is mandatory in a situation where the groundwater level lies closer than two meters from the foundation laying point. At the same time, the laying of layers with polyethylene film is not a full-fledged replacement for roofing material. ("Garden on the roof. beautiful terraces instead of roofing with your own hands"). And one more important point - waterproofing should be laid exclusively on a flat fixed surface. And this means that even if no backfill layers are laid (this is permissible in the absence of groundwater at a depth of two meters or more), then for waterproofing it will still be necessary to perform a rough screed. (Fig. 14)

And this means that even under the condition that layers of backfill are not laid (this is permissible in the absence of groundwater at a depth of two meters or more), then for waterproofing it will still be necessary to perform a rough screed

Waterproofing is not required in the same cases as backfilling - when groundwater runs at a depth of more than two meters from the foundation. ("Insulate and waterproof the balcony").

5. Laying a layer of insulation. (Fig. 15)

Laying a layer of insulation

A heater is laid on top of the waterproofing. This layer is optional except for real estate with an exceptionally warm climate, and even there extraordinary situations occur in the form of snowfall or the onset of frost. Taking as a basis the fact that our housing construction is located in latitudes with a temperate climate, we will offer extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 28-35 kg / m3 as a heater. Sometimes ordinary foam is also used, but it is inferior to expanded polystyrene in several respects, and first of all in terms of structural strength and moisture resistance. The thickness of the insulation already depends on the specific climatic conditions, and the required layer of insulation must be calculated individually. ("Insulation of the ceiling", "Wall insulation", "Methods of sheathing and insulation of the walls of a frame house.").

6. Performing a finishing screed with mandatory reinforcement. (Fig. 16)

Performing a finishing screed with mandatory reinforcement

The final screed is poured in the same way as the rough screed described above. The difference between them lies in the reinforcement. If the rough screed is reinforced more for its own reassurance, then the reinforcement of the finishing screed is strictly necessary. Moreover, there is a difference in the thickness used to reinforce the mesh wire. So, if you know that in the future a wall of brick, cinder block or other similar material will be installed on the flooded floor, then in the reinforcement you need to use a wire with a thickness of 4 mm or more. With absolute certainty of the opposite, use a 3 mm wire for reinforcement.

The final screed should be poured and leveled at the same time. ("Painting tools, brushes, rollers", "Spatulas and additional tools for painting"). . (Fig. 17, 18, 19)

A finishing decorative floor covering will be laid on it, and for any finishing material a flat plane of the base floor is required

A finishing decorative floor covering will be laid on it, and for any finishing material a flat plane of the base floor is required

A finishing decorative floor covering will be laid on it, and for any finishing material a flat plane of the base floor is required

The situation of the “warm floor” device is important. ("Warm floor under the tile" , "Water underfloor heating under the tile" , "Options for heating a country house. Stove and electric" , "Home heating with a heat pump" , "Plen heating systems"). With such a device, the finishing screed will not only increase in thickness, but must also have gaps near the walls of at least two centimeters along the entire perimeter, while laying all previous layers of the floor remains unchanged. . (Fig. 20, 21, 22, 23)

And such a requirement is equally put forward to the device of the floor, both with water and electric heating.

And such a requirement is equally put forward to the device of the floor, both with water and electric heating.

And such a requirement is equally put forward to the device of the floor, both with water and electric heating.

And such a requirement is equally put forward to the device of the floor, both with water and electric heating.

The final layer of the concrete floor is finishing (decorative). For decoration, many different materials are used and in a huge assortment. All of them are different in their characteristics, installation methods and the use of additional layers. But for laying any of them on the ground floor of the building (except for representatives of various stone or ceramic families), it is recommended to use additional substrates. This is described in more detail in the articles listed below: "Laminate or linoleum, which is better", "Vinyl flooring", "Allure flooring", "Types of flooring", "Types of parquet", "Laying tiles on the floor in the kitchen", "Laying floor tiles in the bathroom", "Floor mosaic", "Tool for laying laminate, carpet, parquet" . (Fig. 24)

More details about this are described in the articles listed below: Laminate or linoleum, which is better, Vinyl flooring, Allure flooring, Types of flooring, Types of parquet, Laying tiles on the floor in the kitchen, Laying floor tiles in the bathroom, Floor mosaic, Tool for laying laminate, carpet, parquet

It is also worth noting that the concrete floor needs to be given time to dry and harden according to generally accepted standards (which was described in the previously mentioned article on "Leveling the floor"). (Fig. 25)

It is also worth noting that the concrete floor needs to be given time to dry and harden according to generally accepted standards (which was described in the previously mentioned article on "Leveling the floor")

If you have to arrange floors on the ground, then you first need to familiarize yourself with the technology of the work. In the absence of a sufficient amount of experience, as well as knowledge, it is important to take into account some of the nuances.

Technology Choice

You can choose one of the existing methods for carrying out these works. The first method involves laying the floor on the ground, while the second involves additional use beams or slabs. If you are faced with the task of building a house where they will live only periodically, with regard to hunting lodges, as well as summer cottages, in this case as best solution the device of the floor on the beams protrudes. In all other cases, soil should be used as a rough base. Floors on the ground will be cheaper compared to those that are equipped using beams, this is due to the fact that you will have the opportunity to save on building and thermal insulation materials.

Varieties of floors on the ground

Features of the concrete floor device on the ground

If you decide to equip the floors on the ground, then you will first need to lay a clean river sand, which will act as a backfill, this layer will have to be well compacted. On next step crushed stone is poured, which can be replaced with expanded clay. Next comes the rough screed, which is based on concrete. The next layer will be hydro and vapor barrier, followed by insulation material. When making floors on the ground, with the penultimate layer you must lay the finishing cement screed, only after that you can start laying decorative flooring. Each of these layers has its own functional features.

Requirements for floor elements

Thus, if you decide to arrange the floor on the ground, then the presence of sand is necessary, which will prevent the penetration of water into the underground space from the soil by capillary action. The thickness of the sand preparation should be equal to 5 centimeters, but not less, while the thickness of the crushed stone layer should be 10 cm. In order to provide more effective protection from moisture, crushed stone should be impregnated with bitumen. If you have to work with damp soil, then the second layer should be exclusively made of crushed stone, since expanded clay is not used in this case for the reason that it is able to absorb moisture and then swell. Each layer during laying should be well compacted, laying a rough screed over expanded clay, it is necessary to strengthen it with reinforcement. As the latter, a chain-link mesh should be used. A concrete-based rough screed acts as the basis for waterproofing, its thickness should be 8 cm. It is laid on crushed stone, which is covered with plastic wrap in advance. The latter in this case is not waterproofing, but is used only to solve technological problems.

Features of the work

If you decide to arrange floors on the ground in a private house, then crushed stone should be used fine, while sand must be river sand. Instead of a rough screed, it is permissible to apply the protection of crushed stone with a solution made of cement and sand, its consistency should be liquid. In this case, the use of polyethylene should be abandoned. To equip the hydro- and vapor barrier, a polyethylene film should be glued onto the screed, which is laid in two layers, it is quite often replaced with roofing material or bitumen. The hydro and vapor barrier layer should be as tight as possible over the entire area, since the floors on the ground in a private house should be well protected from moisture, as well as bad smell, mold, fungi and other negative factors.

System insulation

To insulate the system, thermal insulation should be used, the characteristics and thickness of which will depend on the climate in a particular area. In the role of insulation material, you can use expanded polystyrene, as well as extruded polystyrene foam, these materials are durable, have a low water saturation coefficient. If compared with other types of insulation materials, extruded polystyrene foam has higher compressive strength characteristics.

Carrying out the reinforcement of the finishing screed

When a concrete floor is laid on the ground, the heat-insulating layer should be covered with a cement finishing screed, which should be reinforced with reinforcement. The latter should be used metal mesh. If the work is carried out in the living space, then the reinforcing mesh should be made of wire, the diameter of which is 3 millimeters, while the mesh size should be 10 x 10 cm. For floors where increased loads are expected (this applies to garages), wire for the mesh should have a diameter of 4 millimeters, while the cell size should be 5 x 5 cm.

A concrete floor on the ground is arranged on the basis of a solution, among the ingredients of which are crushed stone with a fraction of 10 to 20 millimeters.

Carrying out floor reinforcement in a residential area

When carrying out work in a residential area, the finishing screed is arranged in such a way that its thickness is 5 cm, but not less, while for a garage this parameter should be 10 centimeters. When installing a warm floor between the screed and the walls, polyurethane or polyethylene should be laid. This is necessary in order to provide a thermal gap between the walls and the floor. If this is not done, then cracks will appear in the screed when heated.

For the reason that the finishing screed acts as the basis of the floor covering, it must have the qualities of horizontality, which beacons can achieve. Arranging the floor on the ground with your own hands, the next step will be to lay a decorative floor covering. Due to the fact that the screed is well protected from moisture, the coating can be anything, namely: parquet, laminate or plank, as well as slab or linoleum-based. If you carry out work using this technology, then the floor will be protected from moisture and exposure to cold, and enough money will be spent. If the work is carried out in a house that is built in a mild climate, and the soil is different in that its humidity is not increased, a simplified floor design can be used. The thickness of each layer will depend on the level of groundwater, mechanical loads on the floor surface, and whether the system will be heated. If the floor is laid on the ground with your own hands, and the groundwater level is below 2 m, the backfill can be used instead of the rough screed. If the loads are more than 200 kilograms per square meter, reinforcing mesh should consist of a wire 4 mm thick, for other cases - 3 mm. It should be remembered that a decrease in the cost of the floor should not cause a deterioration in its quality characteristics, you should not save if you intend to use expensive top coat made of wood, such as laminate or parquet. The concrete floor on the ground has its advantages, it is durable, easy to install, and it is also quite durable. When installing it, it is imperative to include thermal insulation in the system, since 20 percent of heat is lost through the floor, and concrete does not protect the system from the cold. You must follow all the rules when making the floor on the ground, the installation of the floor on the ground involves insulation for those premises that are not residential, with regard to hangars, garages and sheds. The height of the floor level in relation to the foundation will depend on how the basement was insulated. If the walls were insulated, and the floor is located below the upper or lower line of the basement, then the wall will freeze in this place. If the basement was insulated according to all the rules, the floor level may be lower or higher than the top line of the foundation.

Underfloor floor installation

If you decide to mount the floor on the ground, you can also install the floor on the ground with an underground. This assumes an air space between the ground and the floor. Such a design is preferable in areas that are characterized by high soil moisture, which is true if the depth of groundwater is less than 2 meters. This is true for those houses that are built in cold climates. If you decide to deal with the device of such a floor, then the ground level should be 15 cm below the floor level. If you increase the air space, this will cause heat loss, while if the size decreases in the underground, ventilation worsens.

Soil preparation

If you decide to equip the floors on the ground in the house, then the soil will need to be prepared, for this, the vegetation layer must be removed from the surface, in place of which the soil is poured, it must be spilled with water and well tamped. In the end, you should get a layer whose height is 20 cm. Crushed stone or gravel should be laid on top, which should be well compacted. On the base you need to apply a composition prepared from crushed stone and lime. The design of the floor can be changed depending on the quality characteristics of the soil. Between bulk soil and the floor needs to be laid with waterproofing, which will consist of roofing material, clay or polyethylene.

Work technology

If you want to equip the correct floor on the ground, then initially you need to install brick supports on which the logs will be laid, a distance of 1 meter must be maintained between them. For supports, red burnt brick should be used, refusing artificial stone or silica products. The pillars must be mounted around the perimeter and protected with roofing felt, wooden bars are strengthened on top, the thickness of which is 3 centimeters. Pre-treat them with an antiseptic. If you are thinking about how to fill the floor on the ground, this technology has been described above, and if you want to arrange the floor with a log, the next step is to lay the wooden elements. Logs should be made from halves of logs, which are treated with an antiseptic. If you decide to arrange a warm floor on the ground, then at the next stage, the log should be laid on the surface batten, which is fastened with nails. Boards should be tightly stacked to each other. If necessary, the floor can be made double, initially a draft floor is laid from unedged board, only after the waterproofing and the finishing floor are laid. On this we can assume that the design is ready for operation.

Finally

Regardless of whether you decide to arrange a concrete floor in the house on the ground or using a log, all work can be done independently, which will allow the master to save a lot of money.