How to glue decorative stone onto polystyrene foam. Exterior finishing using penoplex or how not to waste time

Flexible stone FS- Stoneis produced in translucent sheets ~ 2 mm thick, measuring 96 x 60 cm (0.576 sq.m.), which are easily cut into “tiles”: 4 pieces - 48 x 30 cm, 9 pieces - 32 x 20 cm or “clinker” tiles" 32 pcs - 24 x 7.5 cm, as well as "tiles" of any size.

Flexible stone FS-Stone Thanks to its high elasticity, it can be glued to almost any curved surface of any material.

For sticking flexible stone FS-Stone It is recommended to use adhesives with high elasticity, for example: FS-Glue, ALLFIX, Ceresit SM 17 or their analogues.

Comparative table of consumption and cost of adhesives per 1m2:

FS- Glue . Highly elasticglue for flexible stone, after drying it becomes almost transparent. It has high adhesion, is resistant to deformation, water- and frost-resistant. Can be used on plasterboard, gypsum board, GSP, chipboard, OSB , DSP, FTP, polystyrene foam, metal, concrete, stone, wood. Suitable for indoor and outdoor use (at positive temperatures). If necessary, level uneven surfaces with a leveling mixture. The glue is applied with a brush or roller to the surface to be glued. Consumption 80 - 200 ml/m2 depending on the porosity of the surface to be glued. Ideal for creating a “glowing” stone, as well as for butt stickers. When gluing “with jointing”, moistened tinted sand is rubbed into the glue remaining on the surface between the tiles of flexible stone.

Universal facade adhesiveALLFIX http://www.allfix.ru/

Methanol-free, heavy-duty, all-weather, moisture-resistant. Used for both external and internal work. Operating temperature range from -10 to +30! If necessary, level uneven surfaces with a leveling mixture. The glue is applied to the surface to be glued with a roller or notched trowel in strips over the entire surface. After 1-2 minutes, a flexible stone is applied. Consumption: when applied with a roller 300 g/m2, when applied with a notched trowel 600 g/m2

Highly elastic cement adhesives are also used for gluing flexible stone, for exampleCeresit SM 17 http://www.ceresit.ru/products/glues_for_tiles/93/

Flexible stone sticker FS- Stoneat internal works simple and sufficient general recommendations. The surface must be durable, clean and dry. "Old plasters" check for peeling, if necessary, replace loose layers of plaster, the rest treat with primer. Uneven surfaces when using adhesives FS- GlueAnd ALLFIX If necessary, level with leveling mixture. When using glue Ceresit SM 17 perform preliminary leveling of the surface if unevenness exceeds 1-2 cm. When sticking to drywall, gypsum board, chipboard, OSB, the seams between the boards should be reinforced with sickle tape, and the corners should be reinforced with a painting profile. The tape and profile can be applied to the tile adhesive used. When gluing to unprepared walls, follow the recommendations for outdoor work given below.

Sticker on load-bearing bases (brick, concrete, cellular concrete)

Installation of flexible stone on brick and concrete.

This group of materials includes all other materials with similar characteristics (smooth, non-absorbent and non-deformable surface), except plastic. Plastic has significant thermal expansion, so for external work it is not advisable to use plastic as a base; in extreme cases, it is possible to use glue FS- Glue.

Insulation. If there is a need to insulate a wall made of such material, you can use EPS polystyrene foam or mineral wool. Optimal material for insulation systems with flexible stone on smooth, non-absorbent surfaces - EPS polystyrene foam. Before installing insulation, the wall should be prepared in the same way as for installing tiles. (See below for the sticker on the insulation).

Preparing the base . For non-adhering flexible stone using glue FS- GluePre-level the surface with Ceresit CT 29 putty. For glue ALLFIXSuch preparation is carried out when the surface is significantly uneven. For cement-based adhesives brick surface must be treated with Ceresit CT 16 adhesive primer, and concrete with Ceresit CT 17 penetrating primer.

Tiles can be glued directly to a primed surface using any quality tile adhesive for exterior use. To form seams gray use gray glue Ceresit CM 17. For white seams - white glue for exterior work Ceresit CM 115.

Installation of flexible stone on cellular concrete, aerated concrete differs from that described above in that to prepare the surface for adhesives FS- GlueAnd ALLFIX Ceresit CT 24 putty is used. And for cement-based adhesives, it is double-treated with Ceresit CT 17 penetrating primer.

Sticker on frame walls (OSB, TsSP, FTP).

Installation of flexible stone on OSB, DSP.

OSB(oriented strand board) is a plate made of several layers of pressed wood chips. Moreover, these layers are located at an angle of 90 0 to each other. The surface of the plate is treated with paraffin. OSB board is not the easiest base for “wet” work; this is due to significant deformation of the board when humidity increases. OSB boards There are different qualities, despite the same declared brand OSB-3. Plates that are supplied to Russian market USA and Canada (Arbec, Norboard, LP, etc.) are of lower quality than European ones. They have low density and are practically unprocessed. The densest board made in Germany (ie Glunz). For external walls frame house OSB board with a thickness of at least 12 mm should be used high density. A cheap Canadian stove is not suitable for this. The best option use of OSB boards with flexible stone cladding FS- StoneThese are SIP panels. They are quite rigidly connected to each other and provide acceptable geometry.

DSPThese are gray concrete slabs with a light sawdust filler. Inexpensive and practical construction material. For the external walls of a frame house, a DSP board with a thickness of at least 12 mm should be used. DSP plate-1 is superior to the TsSP-2 brand in terms of strength and geometry accuracy. The DSP board has two disadvantages: deformation due to fluctuations in humidity and high absorbency.

Surface preparation . The seams between the slabs should be reinforced with sickle tape, the corners and slopes of the windows should be reinforced with a painting profile. The tape and profile can be applied to the tile adhesive used. For adhesives FS- GlueAnd ALLFIX such preparation is sufficient. For cement-based adhesives, the surface must be treated with a penetrating primer. Ceresit CT 17. It will eliminate the absorption of moisture from the tile adhesive. And for the base from OSB additionally treat the surface with an adhesive primer Ceresit CT 16. It will provide a rough surface and protect against coloring pigments.

The tiles can be glued with any of the above-recommended adhesives or using any high-quality elastic tile adhesive for external use. Attention! OSB and DSP boards are subject to deformation, so elastic adhesive is required (elasticity index S1 or S2). To form gray seams, use elastic gray glue (Ceresit CM 17 or Lugato Flexibel). For white seams - elastic white glue for exterior use (Ardal Best S2, Ardex X77W, Mapei Granirapid). You can also use white Ceresit CM 115 glue with an elasticizer Ceresit CC 83.

Installation of flexible stone on fiber cement.

Flat slate is sheets of concrete reinforced with asbestos fiber (asbestos cement) or polyester fiber (fiber cement). As a variation, there is the so-called aquapanel, which is a concrete sheet reinforced with fiberglass mesh. Aquapanel is available for interior and exterior use. Fiber cement panels They are quite dense, so they do not absorb moisture and practically do not deform due to humidity fluctuations. Similar materials - perfect solution for external cladding of a frame house for cladding with flexible stone FS- Stone.

Surface preparation Federal Targeted Program and gluing flexible stone are similar to working with DSP except that there are no increased requirements for the elasticity of cement-based adhesives, for example, Ceresit CM 115 can be used without an additional elasticizer.

Sticker for insulation (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool).

Installation of flexible stone on EPS foam polystyrene foam

The optimal brand of foamed polystyrene for use in the facade insulation system PSB-S 25 (density 15-25 kg/m3). It is permissible to use denser brands. Expanded polystyrene is attached to the base (facade wall) with glue ALLFIX or with special adhesive for polystyrene foam (for example Ceresit Thermo Universal or Ceresit CT 83). Foam plastic slabs are installed closely, without gaps or cross-shaped seams, similar to brickwork. No earlier than 48 hours later, the polystyrene foam slabs are additionally fixed with disc-shaped dowels (so-called parachutes). The dowel caps must be recessed flush with the surface of the insulation. The length of the dowel is selected so that it enters the base at least to the depth recommended by the dowel manufacturer for the specific wall material (more for aerated concrete than for reinforced concrete). The consumption of dowels is 5-7 pcs per m2.

Tiles can be glued directly to the surface of polystyrene foam using adhesives FS- GlueAnd ALLFIX or high-quality cement-based tile adhesive for exterior use. To form gray seams, use gray glue (Ceresit CM 17 or Lugato Flexibel). For white seams - white glue for external use (Ceresit CM 115).

Installation of flexible stone on extruded polystyrene XPS (appearance: very dense plates of fine-porous insulation orange color, brands Styrofoam, Penoplex, etc.) is similar to working with foamed polystyrene, except that when working with it It is not advisable to use adhesives on cement based due to the difficulty of surface preparation.

Installation of flexible stone on mineral wool

Dense plates of pressed thin stone fibers of gray-green color, packed in thermo-shrink film. Common trade marks- Paroc, Rockwool. For facade systems with flexible stone FS- StoneIt is permissible to use mineral wool with a density of at least 130 kg/m3. This is, for example, Rockwool Fasad Butts or Paroc FAB 3.

Mineral wool slabs are installed on the pre-prepared façade wall as follows. Apply glue to the plane of the insulation board using a large comb. ALLFIX or adhesive composition for mineral wool Ceresit Thermo Universal or Ceresit CT 190. Mineral wool slabs are installed closely, without gaps or cross-shaped seams, similar to brickwork. Not earlier than 48 hours (for ALLFIX glue after 24 hours), the slabs are additionally fixed with disc-shaped dowels (so-called parachutes). The dowel caps must be recessed flush with the surface of the insulation. The length of the dowel is selected so that it enters the base at least to the depth recommended by the dowel manufacturer for the specific wall material (more for aerated concrete than for reinforced concrete). The consumption of dowels is 5-7 pcs per m2.

Preparing the insulation surface . A base layer of plaster reinforced with Ceresit Thermo Universal or Ceresit CT 190 fiberglass mesh should be applied to the surface of the mini-slab. There is no need to prime the mini-slab. It is recommended to level and reinforce external corners and wall openings with a corner painting profile. The profile can be secured using a base layer of plaster.

The tiles can be glued to the surface of the base layer after 24 hours using adhesives FS- GlueAnd ALLFIX or high-quality cement-based tile adhesive for exterior use. To form gray seams, use gray glue Ceresit CM 17 or Lugato Flexibel. For white seams - white glue for exterior use Ceresit CM 115.

Sticker on permanent formwork (Durisol, Velox, IZODOM).

Installation of flexible stone on Durisol, Velox formwork similar to working with DSP except that above the surface permanent formwork VELOX are embedded parts made of thick steel wire. Over time, they will be able to stain the seams of flexible stone cladding with rust. Therefore, before installation, they need to be painted over with nitro enamel or other suitable paint and varnish composition. In addition, in order to hide the irregularities formed by the embedded parts, when working with cement-based glue, you should use a comb with a large tooth (6-8 mm). This will increase glue consumption. And when working with adhesives FS- GlueAnd ALLFIX During the construction stage, the embeds should be “buried” into the VELOX slab so that they do not protrude above the surface.

Installation of flexible stone on IZODOM formwork completely similar to working with expanded polystyrene EPS.

Good afternoon. I’m coming to you again with artificial stones made from Penoplex or Polyprostyrene. I did it according to M.K. Short Svetlana - Video by M.K. "Magnets". - here she tells in detail how to work with him. It's like Styrofoam, but it's stronger and doesn't crumble and cuts very well.
1. I bought a sheet of Penoplex - size 1m. by 1.50cm. - very light. Thickness - 2 cm, it can be different from 1.5 to 5 cm thick, but I don’t need a thick one for the wall. .

2.I measured the wall, just enough and a little left, I’ll make an Image.
3. I put the sheet on the table, and marked it with a felt-tip pen and numbered it so that I wouldn’t get confused later when I glue it to the wall.

4. I started cutting with a knife - I held the knife straight and it cut well. easily.

5. I disconnected and began to cut off the corners - imitating the structure of the stone - M.K. Short Svetlana, Vidio M.K. "Magnets". He explains very well and shows how to cut corners to make a stone. I cut it with a knife - it cuts easily, there is almost no debris, it does not crumble.

6. I formed the stones and again laid them out on the table by number.

7. Primed the wall with a primer for walls. when the primer had dried, I spread the finishing putty - like liquid sour cream and began to spread the pebble and glue it to the wall - it sticks well. I started from number 1 and in order.

8. I covered the seams with putty. Where the seams turned out to be narrow - the stones were not laid out - I cut them right on the wall, or they turned out to be longer than necessary - I also cut them - they are cut well.

9. Everything is dry. I painted it with brown acrylic paint with the addition of white.9 In my kitchen, the opposite wall is made to resemble artificial stone from mortar and I matched it to the color.

The wall is opposite the window. I selected a color to match it.

10. The brown paint dried and I tinted it light. After about 5 minutes I wiped it lightly with a damp sponge to even out the color a little.

When cladding facades, mistakes are made very often. You can find a lot of examples by walking just one block in any city. Describing and listing all the errors will be ineffective in terms of memorization. It is better to dwell on a specific case and highlight the mistakes that the builders made when cladding a particular building with artificial stone.

High-quality artificial stone can be compared to natural stone in terms of durability. This is subject to the condition that during manufacturing, production technology is strictly observed. Basically, such products are made on the basis of fine concrete. This means that vibrating tables and polymer additives are used in production to reduce the water-cement ratio. Cement is supplied for production without intermediaries, as fresh as possible. The sand used is clean, without clay impurities. In addition, the temperature and humidity conditions of hardening must be observed. Even a cursory glance at the above shows that it is more difficult for artificial stone to surpass natural or ceramic tiles in terms of quality.

Therefore, cladding with such stone must be approached even more carefully than with other cladding materials.

I copied this phrase from the manufacturer's website artificial stone:

“Firstly, many surfaces (in particular, concrete and brick) do not require any special training when laying this material, since they have similar physical characteristics " What did they mean by this? Can brick façade walls be lined with artificial stone?

Cladding with artificial stone

First lining error.

The basis is a brick wall plastered long before the start of work. Before this, the plaster itself fell off after winter frosts.

And then they hung slabs of artificial stone. All this will last until next spring at most. Just out of interest, you can check in April 2013.

Condition of the wall surface before cladding.

Second lining error.

The stone is not just attached to the facade, but this section of the wall also serves as a container for flowers. All this is made of red brick without the slightest hint of waterproofing. Autumn rains will thoroughly saturate the soil and brick, and winter frosts will transform everything into a pile of artificial stones.

P.S.

Over the course of several days, some changes have occurred on the porch, which somewhat change the forecast regarding the durability of a particular cladding.

The fact is that the builders used additional fastening of the slabs. This is generally a new phenomenon in facing work. Additional fastening facing slabs with driven dowels. I missed the moment when the dowels were driven in. If this happened at the time of cladding, with glue that had not hardened, then this fastener will increase its service life. If the tiles were drilled the next day and, most likely, with an impact drill, this could break the weak adhesive. And then, the end of this facing may come much earlier.

Additional fastening of cladding slabs.

Another useful operation performed on this facade is painting!

good facade paint closes all pores and microcracks on the facade and prevents moisture from entering behind the cladding. This small detail increases the service life of the cladding several times.

If it were not for the flowerbed in the body of the porch, we can safely predict the service life of such cladding will be 5-6 years. So far this forecast has improved, but not by much.

….Four months have passed.

Summer has passed. Heating during the day led to the expansion of the cladding and the wall. Due to different linear expansion coefficients, cracks appeared between the tiles and the structure. They are still small. But winter is coming. Snow will fall on the upper end, melt and freeze. The next inspection of the porch condition will be in the spring.

Cracks at the end of the tiles and walls.

Another year has passed. May 2013

In one area the cladding was cracked at the seams - this is the first sign that the stone has moved away from the wall, and in another it fell off completely. Plastic dowels did not help, and maybe on the contrary they did harm if they became clogged the next day. The wall surface is dry, without glue. It might not have been primed, or the glue might have only been applied to the stone in hot weather. Or they used cheap glue not intended for outdoor use.

FEBRUARY 2014. Well, in February 2014 we can summarize the observations.

The lining began to fall off en masse and opened inner side slabs and wall. On one side of the porch, the glue blobs remained on the wall, but on the other they moved away from the wall along with the stone. The fastening on the lugs is not very good good way fastening artificial stone. But in this case it didn't matter. Even if everything was done correctly - both surfaces (stone and wall) were primed and the glue was applied using a comb, the stone cladding would still fall off. Only it would fall off with a layer of plaster.

Making it actually turns out to be not as difficult a job as it might seem at first.

To do this, you need to stock up on a little patience, imagination and a set of simple tools and materials, including:

• the foam itself;
• soldering iron;
• paint or coloring pigment;
• concrete;
• chain-link mesh;
• putty knife;
• sand.

In some cases, you may need wire, wire cutters, office tape and plastic bags. The list of tools used depends on what exactly the end result should be: imitation brickwork or huge decorative rock for installation in the garden.

Decorative stone for garden

To make a decorative stone with your own hands for installation in the garden, you will need a chain-link mesh with small cells. The frame of the future cobblestone or rock fragment will be made from this material. The resulting form must be filled with pieces of foam. To avoid leaving large voids, the size of these pieces should be no more than 2-3 centimeters.

The bottom of the frame of the future stone should be tightened with thin wire or sealed with stationery tape. Construction tape is not suitable for these purposes.

The next step is to prepare concrete mixture . For these purposes, Portland cement is best suited in combination with river sand. The proportions of these materials in the mixture should be approximately equal to the ratio of one to three. The resulting mixture should then be diluted with water, mixed thoroughly, left for 7-10 minutes and mixed again. To make the mixture homogeneous, you can mix it using the cutting method. That is, cut off a small piece of concrete from the edges, move them to the center of the container, mix and repeat this operation over and over again. The output should be a mixture whose consistency resembles dough. The cement should not flow from the spatula, but fall off in large pieces.

Then ready mix applied to the surface of the stone with a layer thickness of about 15-20 millimeters. After which the workpiece is moistened with a spray bottle and covered with plastic film for a day. You can also wrap the future stone in a regular bag from the nearest supermarket, if it is the right size.

After 24 hours, you can begin preparing the surface of the cobblestone or rock for painting.

Preparation for painting decorative stone is usually carried out using a coloring pigment. One level tablespoon of this substance suitable color in combination with a faceted glass of Portland cement, diluted with ordinary water to the consistency of thick sour cream. Using hands dressed in rubber gloves, this mixture is applied to the surface of the product being manufactured. As soon as the stone coating begins to dry, you need to use a spatula to give the stone a natural look: add chips, scratches and notches.

To consolidate the effect, several punctures should be made in different places, cover the stones with film and leave to dry until completely dry. The product, dry and ready for painting, is painted using the same mixture as on preparatory stage. The main task at the moment is not so much decor as tinting and giving a natural color to the stone. The product should not look artificial. Coloring composition Apply with a toothbrush using the spray method. That is, the decorative stone is covered with paint unevenly, various inclusions, darker and lighter places appear. If you don’t like the results of your work, you can wash them off with plain water and repeat. final stage again.

All that remains is to fix the result with a transparent spray varnish, which is sold in any auto supply store.

Wall decoration with foam stone

Styrofoam can make an excellent imitation of masonry, brick walls and other surfaces.

This effect can be achieved in two ways:

• make stones or bricks of future masonry for walls with your own hands separately;
• shape the masonry of entire wall segments on a large piece of foam.

In any case, you will first have to prepare the stones themselves with your own hands. D To imitate brick walls, foam plastic is either cut into equal rectangles, or each decorative brick“turned out” on a large piece of foam. The first method is good because thin pieces of material are suitable for its implementation. In the second, you will have to use a piece of foam plastic of greater thickness.

Polystyrene foam can be easily processed with your own hands using a knife and scissors. Giving the masonry segments the necessary geometric shape shouldn't cause any problems. To prevent the coating from looking artificial and taking on the appearance of real brick walls, you should add defects to it: chips, cracks and scratches. This can be done using a soldering iron. The heated metal tip of the tool will leave behind uneven and asymmetrical marks, which, in principle, is what should be achieved.

When heated, polystyrene releases toxic substances into the air. When working with a soldering iron, you should definitely use a respirator, and work should be performed in a well-ventilated area, or better yet, in outdoors or on the balcony.

To give the foam wall covering the appearance of wild stone It would be more advisable to use large and thick pieces of material. Each decorative stone of the masonry is carved separately by hand using a knife, scalpel, spatula and other available tools. Before you start, you should practice a little small area a piece of polystyrene foam. To make the stones of future wall masonry look natural, you can draw their outlines with a pencil. And along these same contours, leave a shallow groove 5-15 millimeters wide, which will imitate cement mortar between the stone.

After performing the above operation, the coating should be given volume. Wild stones differ from brickwork not only in the shape and size of the elements, but also in their depth. The surface in profile does not have to be perfectly flat. Somewhere it should be thicker, somewhere thinner. You can achieve this effect using sandpaper.

When imitating wild stone masonry for walls with your own hands, you should remember that each “pebble” must be unique, and not an exact copy of its neighbor.

After decorative panel will be ready, it can be attached to one of the walls using glue or liquid nails. It is recommended to first clean the surface from dust and dirt, otherwise brick or masonry will have every chance of ending up on the floor at one fine and most inopportune moment.

If the materials contain only small fragments of foam, then do not despair. Using glue, a utility knife and cement mortar You can use them to assemble decorative stones of any size.

Painting of new stone or brickwork can be done either using a mixture of pigment and Portland cement, or using regular paint. In this case, uniformity of the coating should be avoided. Various inclusions, stains and other attributes of a novice painter’s work will give the wall a natural appearance. And in conclusion, it remains to debunk the myth about the soundproofing properties of polystyrene foam. This material does not absorb or insulate noise. To ensure silence in your home, you should use mineral wool and other fibrous structures.

Video gallery

Photo gallery

Cold wall insulated the kitchen with penoplex*, and at the same time received beautiful decor in the form of red mountain sandstone.

Required: foam sheet (1x1.5 m, 2 cm thick), felt-tip pen (you can use a marker), knife, primer, finishing putty, acrylic paint, acrylic lacquer.

Sheet preparation

Carved texture

On a note
Penoplex cuts well with a regular knife, leaves virtually no debris and does not crumble. In places where the seams turned out to be narrow or the stones were longer and did not lay out evenly, I trimmed them with a knife directly on the wall.

Pasting the wall

Painting

I designed the corner under the ceiling in the same way. (photo3). After painting and varnishing, this decorative stone became very hard and is in no way inferior to its gypsum counterparts.

Final stage

I crumpled up a piece of paper and walked it over the area with the solution, imitating the texture of stone. After 20 minutes, I drew the outline of the stones with the handle of a teaspoon. Dried it. Primed. Painted by analogy with sandstone from penoplex (photo 4).

Svetlana Laktionova, Lozovaya.
Photo by the author

* Penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam) - environmentally friendly thermal insulation material, not subject to rotting, with low thermal conductivity, minimal water absorption and high strength.

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