We make a beautiful arch from plasterboard with our own hands. Decorative finishing of arches: wallpaper, wood, tiles, mosaics, stone Features of installing an interior arch with your own hands from fiberboard

Finishing a door with laminate yourself allows you to make the entrance to your home individual and attractive at minimal cost, thanks to the huge variety of textures and colors of this facing material.

There are now many materials on the market that can be used for cladding entrances. door designs made of metal. The most popular product for these purposes is laminate, which has many operational and decorative advantages. The latter are due to the unique characteristics of this material.

Door covered with laminated panels

Standard laminated panels are produced in the form of multi-layer tiles consisting of:

a stabilizing base impregnated with resins of synthetic origin or paraffin;
wood fiber or particle board, which serves as the core of the panel;
another layer of specially treated paper on which some image (pattern, drawing) is applied;
polymer protective film.

This structure gives the laminate high strength and excellent resistance to mechanical wear and fading. In addition, the described products are characterized by a chic appearance, affordable cost and the possibility of self-installation without any serious difficulties. If you are interested in high-quality, inexpensive and quick finishing of a metal door with your own hands, it is almost impossible to find a better material.

Laminate is suitable for cladding door structures both inside and outside. However, you need to remember that it has one drawback. Laminated products do not tolerate fluctuations in humidity and temperature very well. For this reason, they cannot be used to decorate an external entrance (for example, to a private house or entrance apartment building). When exposed to moisture, the laminate will swell very quickly and lose all its special properties.

Let's figure out step by step how to sheathe the entrance structure with the material we are interested in. Everything here is elementary. The work flow will be as follows:

Remove the door from its hinges and lay it horizontally on a flat surface.
Remove (carefully and slowly) all latches, smooths, locks, handles and other fittings from the canvas.
Coloring wooden slats in the color of the planned finish and secure them around the perimeter of the structure. On metal doors such products are fixed using liquid nails.
You assemble a shield from individual laminated panels. The work is simple, thanks to the presence of locking connections on the products. You just need to make sure that all the panels are mounted to each other as tightly as possible (end-to-end).
Measure the distance between the individual slats. After this, transfer the measurement results to the prepared shield.
Saw off the outer panels to length and width. This operation is easiest to perform electric jigsaw. The likelihood of damage to the laminate in this case is minimal.
Treat the door leaf with adhesive. Take a short pause (the glue holding time is in the instructions for its use). Then transfer panel structure onto the canvas and press it on top with something heavy.
After the glue has dried, the door can be placed back into the opening.

Door with slopes after finishing

As you can see, the casing front door products with laminated coating DIY is a truly simple process. You just need to adhere to the given scheme for carrying out facing activities. And then the result will exceed all your expectations. Decoration iron door must be made of laminated panels with a thickness of at least 8 mm. It is undesirable to use thinner material, since it does not have the required operational strength.

If you want your home to always be warm and drafts to avoid it, you should definitely take care of high-quality cladding all with the same laminate. The finishing of these elements gives the entrance metal structures attractive appearance, as it hides the areas where the box is attached. Sheathing the slopes also increases the structure's resistance to burglary. And this, you see, means a lot these days. You can form slopes in three ways:

Sealing with mortar and subsequent plastering.
By gluing the sheathing material.
Frame cladding.

Paneled door jambs

The easiest way to implement the first two options with your own hands. But you should understand that you will have to do dirty and wet work - stir the solution, apply it, wait for the composition to harden. Not every home craftsman wants to get involved in such events.

An alternative wet finishing is technology frame cladding slopes. You will need to make a simple skeleton from wooden blocks and metal profile. And after that, strengthen the laminate on the frame (in the transverse or longitudinal direction), using. Note that vertical wood slats should be fixed at the edges and in their central part, and horizontal slats should be fixed only at the edges. After simple work you will get perfectly smooth slopes. The door itself will be perceived as a single structure.

Other materials for decorating doors

Metal structures can also be refined using other products. Let's see what to cover the front door with if for some reason you don't like laminate. Laminated, veneered or simply painted MDF is popular. Wood-fiber products coated with a special film or veneer are suitable for interior and exterior decoration. But painted MDF is best used exclusively for decorating doors from the inside, since its strength is not high enough. Laminated panels have excellent appearance and reasonable cost.

Laminated MDF panels

Prices for veneered products are higher. The cheapest material is MDF with birch veneer. For luxury finishing, panels made of mahogany, oak, beech and exotic wood are usually used.

Veneered MDF is available in the form of strips. They need to be glued to the canvas. This process does not cause problems, since the strips in question have glue on their back side, which is covered with a protective paper layer. You need to remove it from each product one by one and apply the MDF to the canvas, ironing it with a hot iron through thin fabric or thick paper. Important! Pasting should begin from the middle of the door. First, draw a vertical center line on the structure, and then attach strips to the left and right of it.

Many craftsmen decorate the entrance to their home wooden clapboard. Such products have different prices, depending on the type of wood from which they are made. The lining is attached not to the iron door itself, but to a frame pre-assembled for these purposes. It is made from thin strips (they are fixed to the canvas with metal screws). The lining can be placed on the structure at different angles, painted in any color, and covered with carvings. If you wish, using such material you can easily make a unique door with your own hands.

Do you want to functionally and visually zone the space of your apartment, but do not want to install standard interior doors? Then your choice is plasterboard arches. They not only separate rooms, but also effectively decorate doorways, making them more original. Besides these beautiful designs do not require large expenditures - you can even do them yourself. How? First, find out the features different types arches and evaluate photos of finished products in the interior to decide on the design of the model. Then read step by step instructions and watch a video explaining all stages of installation. And then you can confidently begin installing the arch. More about all this below.

Choosing the type of arch

home distinguishing feature each arch - the shape of the vault. It is this that serves as the criterion for classifying products. So, the following types of arches are distinguished:

classic - a traditional version with a semicircular arch, the cross-sectional center of which lies exactly in the middle of the doorway;
portal – laconic arches with a rectangular vault;

segmental - an asymmetrical arch, the arch of which consists of two elements: one repeats the shape of the portal, and the second - the classical model;
modern - semicircular arches with a non-standard arch radius - more or less than the classic radius of half the width of the doorway;
romantic - a type of portal arch with neatly rounded corners.

Advice. When choosing the shape of the arch, you should take into account the size of the rooms. If the ceilings in your apartment or house are low, it is better to avoid classic variations - they somewhat hide the space. And for very low rooms it is better to select arches without pronounced curves at all - segmental or portals.

Getting ready for installation

Before you begin the actual construction of the arch, you need to perform several preparatory work. The first is the preparation of the necessary tools and materials. In particular, you will need:

plasterboard sheets: two sheets 12 mm thick and one for the vault - 6.5 mm thick;
metal profiles - at least 6 pieces;
two arched corners;
dowels and screws;
hacksaw for metal;
drywall knife;
hammer drill, screwdriver and drill;

Tool for installing a plasterboard arch

building level;
pliers;
roller;
gypsum putty and spatula;
primer;
sanding paper;
pencil and tape measure.

Next, you need to prepare the opening for installation of the new structure. First of all, you need to eliminate the door frame - this will help to significantly increase the opening area. After dismantling, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface from various flaking materials, dirt and dust.

After completing the preparatory stage, proceed with the installation of the arch. Start by assembling and installing the structure frame.

We construct the arch frame

The construction of an arched frame consists of the following steps:

We install drywall on an arched frame

After the arch frame is installed, it needs to be sheathed with plasterboard. Start with the side parts: screw the prepared sheets to the metal guides with self-tapping screws in increments of 15-20 cm.

Advice. Screw in the screws so that their heads “sink” into the drywall - this way they will not interfere with finishing work and will not subsequently spoil the appearance of the arch.

Next, you need to secure the drywall to the curved top profile. This is the most difficult procedure, since the material, on the one hand, bends poorly, and on the other, can quickly deform under force. The best way out of the situation is to slightly wet the drywall and, carefully bending it, adjust it to the frame. When the required arch radius has been reached, attach the plasterboard elements to curved profile using self-tapping screws. Then ready top part The arches must be connected with the same screws to the side walls of the structure.

We process and decorate the arch

The last stage of creating a plasterboard arch is finishing and design of the structure. The first procedure is performed in several stages:

Walk along the surface of the arch with sandpaper to remove all roughness and unevenness.
Attach the arched corners to the putty - they will hold the shape of the upper part of the structure.
Apply putty to all installation seams.
After the putty has completely dried, smooth out any uneven areas again.
Cover the surface of the arch with primer, and after it dries, apply on top finishing putty and sand the structure again.

finishing with wallpaper is a simple option with great possibilities: thanks to the variety of textures, colors and patterns, you can choose a cladding for absolutely any style. It is best to use non-woven ones - they are not only aesthetic, but also durable.
painting – this decoration option is good for its practicality: the painted structure can be washed an unlimited number of times. Choose water-based paint– its colors are more saturated.

covering with fabrics is a non-standard finish that will give your arch more noble look. The choice of fabrics is unlimited - from laconic cotton to exquisite jacquard.
decorative patterns are a very easy to implement decorating idea: you only need template stencils, spray paint, protective film and your own imagination.

A plasterboard arch is an effective and relatively simple way to transform the interior of your home with my own hands. All you need is to follow the instructions and carry out all the work step by step. And the result will not keep you waiting long - you will get a distinctive and original doorway instead of the usual interior door.

How to make an arch with your own hands: video

Drywall arch: photo

Arches and portals made of gypsum plasterboard with the correct geometry sometimes seem incredibly complex to construct, although they are all based on the same simple principles construction. Today we will tell you how to make beautiful and durable plasterboard arches with your own hands.

Clearance, thickness, obstruction: determine the parameters of the opening

The basis for the gypsum plasterboard arch is a frame made of galvanized steel profile. To build it, it is necessary to rely on a number of characteristics of the existing opening.

Height and clearance are vertical and horizontal dimensions, respectively. The final dimensions of the arch depend on them, despite the fact that the inlaid structure will eat approximately 40-60 mm on the sides and another 100 mm on top. Preliminary widening of the opening is a widely used technique, unless the work is being done on a load-bearing wall.

The material of the walls is no less important, because it depends on the strength load-bearing base the reliability of fixation of the arch substructure depends. WITH concrete panels There are no problems with brick partitions, but openings in walls made of loose materials such as adobe or shell rock must first be plastered and reinforced with steel mesh.

Separately, it is worth touching on the topic of arches, which, in a certain understanding, independent from the walls. If both adjoining rooms have gypsum plasterboard covering profile frame, the arch does not need to be secured inside the opening. For very thin partitions (less than 70 mm), a popular technique is to assemble a thickened opening, decorated with columns on the sides. In fact, there are much more variations in the execution of the arch than it seems.

Arch options

In the usual sense, an arch has two smooth, flat side faces and a semicircular arch. This classic shape sets the standard for simplicity and restraint of style. It is worth remembering that by complicating the form, each time you doom yourself to extra work- not during the assembly process, but during routine puttying and sanding. If you are willing to be meticulous and diligent at the final stage, you can consider more complex options.

First of all, pay attention to the arch with a transom or several through cells above the vault. On the one hand, this configuration looks light and elegant if there is a pronounced repetition of shapes in the arch. On the other hand, the cells can become a potential “dust collector”, so they need to be finished with washable coatings and periodically take time for cleaning.

If there is a transom, the arch itself may not have a round arch. Instead, a simple rectangular portal of a strict shape is designed, which is decorated with a wide through niche at the top. Such solutions go very well with indoor landscaping and spot gardening mounted in a horizontal partition.

More laconic forms include arches with an inclined arch or only one rounded corner. They can break up the monotony of long corridors with little natural light.

Double and triple arches, which have several arches of different heights, thicknesses and rounding radii, are somewhat more original. Multi-level vaults, as well as dedicated imposts, pylons, capitals and castles, are assembled on top of the base structure, which simplifies the implementation of complex architectural delights.

Assembling the arch structure

Arch base - a rectangular frame that borders the opening and serves reliable basis to secure all subsequent elements. As mentioned above, depending on the presence of sheathing on adjacent walls, the substructure is assembled differently.

In a clean opening, one or a pair of guide profiles are mounted on each side. With a minimum wall thickness of 50 mm, one guide profile of the same width is installed. With a width of 50 to 100 mm, one such large profile is installed flush with one edge of the opening, and an additional PN profile with a width of 27 mm is mounted at the other.

When the arch thickness is 100 mm or more, one of the guide profiles is changed to 100 mm, using a second, additional profile different widths. It is important that at least one of the lines of the substructure is made of a 50 mm or more massive profile. This will allow the use of a flexible (segmented) rack profile of the appropriate size, which will be securely fixed in the guide system. This explains the unpopularity of the PS-60 and PN-27 kit, since their relative position does not allow them to be technologically connected.

At the very top of the opening, the guide profiles are connected by a horizontal crossbar, which has a non-rigid attachment to the base arch. To dampen vibration noise, the frame system is mounted on a polyethylene foam lining. Looking ahead, let us clarify that the lower part of the vertical guides can be cut off after assembling the arch to save the final width of the arch, however, in the case of a set of false planes along the side edges, you need to insert another pair of the same corresponding height into the guide profiles, placing their shelves towards each other.

Forming a frame of radius edges

The supporting basis for the arch and other radius-shaped surfaces is a flexible rack profile or, in the worst case, a section of a regular rack with cut side shelves. If the arch includes convex radius elements, it will not be possible to use the rack type due to the edges on the shelves - they will not fold tightly when bent, and this will make it difficult to cover the side planes.

The question remains open: how to bend the profile that forms the shape accurately and at the same time duplicate the bend on the opposite side of the arch? Here it is used cunning trick: first, two identical pieces of sheathing are cut out of the plasterboard, which are precisely marked and cut according to general template. They are attached to the side posts of the subsystem and the top crossbar, aligned relative to each other with a rack level.

Then, along the contour of the figure, flexible segments of the frame are screwed from the inside, which are inserted between the shelves of the guide profiles. If the side parts of the arch are left without covering, at this stage the substructure is cut with a small margin, and the protruding shelves are folded over the edges of the arch frame and additionally reinforced with self-tapping screws.

The lining of the sides of the arch, including the figured one, is done in exactly the same way. The transom and through niches are first cut out in the sheets lining the vault, and then reinforced from the inside with pieces of PN-27 or larger. After the assembly is completed, the two structures are connected by short jumpers, due to which the thickness of the arch is adjusted in each specific place.

Completion of the arch

Sheathing the frame is not difficult, except for some specific situations. For example, if the casing of a vault wide arch It is not possible to make it as a single sheet; it is divided into two halves, fastened with a piece of CD-60. In this case, you need to manage to place a profile on the inside when one of the planes is already sewn up, although the thickness of the arch almost always allows this.

Internal surfaces can be sheathed with small fragments and scraps, however, the more joints, the more time it will take to properly strengthen them. Bent surfaces, as usual, are covered with soaked soft plasterboard, which must then be completely dried. Before leveling putty, corner profiles are installed (first flexible, then straight) and the joints between the sheets are strengthened.

After puttying and sanding, it is better to treat the internal surfaces of the arch with acrylic or water-dispersed washable paint. It is advisable to cover the external parts with the same finish that is used on the areas of the walls adjacent to the arch. If it is not possible to carefully bring together dissimilar materials at the corners, use foam fillets of different shapes, but purchase them in advance to determine the optimal rounding radii.

One way to increase your living space is to remove the doors. But there is not always the opportunity or desire to break down the walls. Then the former doorway is designed in the form of an arch. Another option for using arched openings is to divide a long corridor into zones, breaking up the too simple geometry. When making repairs on your own, arches are most often made from plasterboard: it’s easiest to make them yourself.

Types of arches

Interior or corridor arches can have different shapes. They differ mainly in the shape of the upper part and sometimes in the way they are connected to the vertical parts. Their main types are presented in the photo.

This group is missing one of the most popular Lately- semi-arch. They have a rounded corner only on one side, on the other it remains straight. This is where the name came from - semi-arch. It looks good in modern interiors: minimalism, hi-tech, maybe art deco.

The classic is distinguished by the correct shape of the top. This is strictly a semicircle whose radius is equal to half width of the doorway. This type looks good with an opening height of at least 2.5 m. It fits well into any interior, but looks best in a long corridor, or instead of the entrance door to the kitchen.

An arched opening in the Modern style is distinguished by a small radius of curvature and a sharp transition at the junction with the vertical components of the opening. It looks good if the walls and ceiling have more or less simple design. Looks great in place of the former one balcony door, good when entering the office.

The “Romantic” style arch is more likely to be simply rounded corners (mostly masters call it that). Looks good with a large width and not the greatest height.

The “romantic” shape is good with large width and small height

The “ellipse” shape is very close to “romance”. It differs only in greater curvature in the middle part. Also suitable for low and wide openings. It just looks a little softer.

Trapezoid is a non-standard design consisting of broken lines. It is difficult to play out in the interior, therefore it is used infrequently: for some non-standard designs.

One of the design options is trapezoid

It is very similar to an ordinary opening, and that is essentially what it is, only without the door leaf. For greater originality, it is often accompanied by wooden carved elements in the form of columns on the sides. In this form it is good for classic interiors, as well as ethno-style - Greek or Roman, depending on the type of columns.

For decoration in modern styles, they use another example - next to the main arch, smaller portals are located. This technique allows you to “beat” a simple form.

Another version of the “portal” arch

Before you start making an arch, you need to decide on its parameters. select the type, and then the parameters: where it will start, and what the radius of curvature will be. It could be a really sharp bend, or it could just be some rounding of the corners.

To understand how your chosen shape will look, you can cut out a template from cardboard and attach it to the doorway. Evaluate the effect. If everything suits you, you can make a blank using this template. But only one - for one of the sides of the opening. The second one needs to be done in place, otherwise it will turn out crooked.

Step-by-step instructions with photos: the fastest way

Do-it-yourself plasterboard arches are made in different ways. This one takes a minimal amount of time. Having decided on the shape, we proceed to installation. We attach a frame to the prepared opening, cleared of peeling plaster and relatively leveled, according to the dimensions of the future arch. It is made from a profile for drywall or dry wooden block suitable size. Sometimes, if the wall is narrow, you can only choose wood.

To begin, we cut out a rectangle from drywall to the size of the future arch, find its middle, mark it, and then temporarily screw it into place. We retreat from the edge 12.5 mm - the thickness of the plasterboard sheet. If the adjacent walls are already plastered, add a couple more millimeters of putty so that the surface can be leveled.

Now we take a piece of profile or hard corner and set aside half the width of the opening from one edge. At this point we make a hole in the corner and insert a nail into it. We stick this nail into the middle of the doorway we marked earlier on the sheet. It turns out to be a kind of compass, with which it is easy to draw an ideal line.

Device for outlining an arc

By changing the mounting height, you can get a more or less high arch. If you need a flatter curve, increase the length of the “compass”.

Having removed the sheet, we cut out an arc along the outlined contour. This can be done with a special drywall saw, a metal saw with a fine tooth for a smoother edge, or a jigsaw (there will be a lot of dust). If the cut is not very even, we level it using a grater attached to it. sandpaper. With this device we achieve a perfectly even curve of the shape we need. We fasten the cut fragment of the arch - the side wall - back into place.

If everything is smooth, there are no distortions or irregularities, on the other side of the opening we attach the same sheet of drywall as a few steps earlier - a rectangle or square, depending on the shape. It must be fixed strictly vertically. Now we transfer the shape of the arch onto it. We take a square, at a right angle and press one side against the drywall, onto which we transfer the arch, and the other side against the arch. Having aligned the square perpendicularly, mark a point with a pencil. We make such points along the entire arc. The more often they are done, the easier it will be to draw the line and the more accurate the match will be - the less you will have to grind down.

Why is it so difficult and not just to make a copy of the first sheet? Because few openings are symmetrical. As a result, installing the second sheet so that the lines of the arch coincide is very problematic.

Having marked all the points, remove the sheet, draw a line, and cut along it. We install it in its original place. Now we take the smoother again with sandpaper and now we smooth both edges until they match completely. One point - the trowel should be wider than the opening so that both walls of the arch are captured in one pass.

We measure the length of the arc, cut out a piece of the profile of the same length, make notches on the walls every 3-4 cm. This tape will need to be secured along the arch arch on one side and the other.

We fasten it with self-tapping screws, carefully, pressing the profile and holding it with a block, not with your fingers: it’s easy to get the screw into your fingers. By the way, you need to wear gloves when working with the cut profile. If you don’t, you’ll definitely cut your hands.

By the way, the back of the profile can be aligned along the edge - it’s easier to work this way, but the joint will still have to be sealed later. Screw the strip to the other side in the same way.

This is a bottom view - profiles are attached to the sides

There is a second way to attach the profile - attach it to a quick-setting universal glue, such as liquid nails. This method is acceptable if the opening width is small. If the arch is thick, the glue may not be able to withstand the mass of drywall that will be attached from below.

The next step is to attach the jumpers. First, the depth of the arch is lost, 1-1.5 cm is subtracted from it. This will be the length of the lintels. Cut profile pieces of this length.

Jumpers are cut from the same profile

At the places where the jumpers are attached, the “petals” are cut off, and the prepared fragment is installed and secured. It should not rest against the walls, it should be located approximately 5 mm from the back. Jumpers are needed to make the structure more rigid, otherwise it “walks” when pressed.

Next, you need to cut out a rectangle from drywall that will cover the structure from below. Its width is determined simply - from the outer edge of one sheet of plasterboard to the outer edge of the second sheet. The length is measured with a flexible tape (can be a tailor's tape) or a tape measure with an assistant. We attach this sheet with self-tapping screws to the arch frame. The sheet has to be bent, but read how to do this a little lower - closer to the end of the article.

Arched opening made of plasterboard: second method (photo report)

This method is good if the thickness of the partition is small: try attaching the profiles if the gap between them is several centimeters, and then attach the jumpers. It all starts the same way: the first wall of the arch is cut out, attached and transferred to the second sheet.

Afterwards, wooden crossbars are cut along the width of the gap between the two sheets, which are attached along the edge of the arch with self-tapping screws.

The cut strip of drywall is fastened starting from one of the sides. To make it more convenient, you can fix it with clamps, since the thickness of the wall is small. When attaching the strip, you can use the self-tapping screws that were used to fasten the bars. This way you will definitely hit the crossbar.

Then all that remains is to secure a special perforated corner in the corner and smooth out the unevenness.

A corner is attached to the arch arch, everything is puttied

It is also more convenient to smooth the dried putty along the arch arch with the entire plane of sandpaper attached to a grater. It’s unpleasant that dust falls into your eyes, making it almost impossible to work without glasses.

How to make an arch instead of a door: method three - typesetting technique

Another way to make arches from plasterboard with your own hands is by typesetting. The arch is divided into segments and assembled from pieces that create a curvature close to the required one.

They are attached to putty diluted with a mixture of PVA and water. This batch dries quickly, so first we cut the plates and try them on. You can fold it on a table, but the arch will turn out upside down, but it will allow you to evaluate how correctly the plates are assembled.

Then the plates begin to be attached to the opening, periodically strengthening them with self-tapping screws for reliability. Place washers under the heads so as not to push through the cardboard. Remove excess putty immediately. If it gets stuck, it’s impossible to tear it off. The finished surface is treated with a primer to improve adhesion (adhesion), and then puttied, leveling the arch. To make it easier to display, you can use a template attached on both sides.

Making sharp bends using this technology is not easy, but for rounded corners and semi-arches it is a great way to do without profiles.

How to bend drywall

One important detail: standard wall plasterboard bends poorly. For curved surfaces, they specially came up with thin ones - 6 and 6 mm thick. This bent part is easier to make from it. With a slight curvature, such a thin sheet can bend easily and without tricks. If you don’t want to buy thin GVL, there are two ways to bend the standard one.

First- take a needle roller and roll the cut section well on one side. You need to roll with force so that the plaster breaks. Then the leaf is soaked in water and left for two to three hours. After such procedures, it should bend quite well. You take it, fix it on one side, and gradually press it against the arch frame, bend it, gradually screwing it along the edges with self-tapping screws. The method is not bad, but if there is a lack of experience and insufficient processing of the gypsum, the sheet may burst. You will either have to mask the gap later, or start over.

Second way to bend drywall: on one side, make notches with a knife approximately every 4-5 cm. The notches should cut the paper. This strip is also gradually fixed, breaking the plaster as necessary. It bursts along the cut lines with light pressure.

Video on the topic

Decorating a wall niche, window or interior opening with an arch allows you to transform any interior. However, the arch acquires decorative significance only if the finishing material is correctly selected and the installation work is carried out correctly.

Used for decorative finishing of arches huge variety materials, each of which has a number of advantages and disadvantages.

Natural wood

Arches trimmed with natural wood give the room a certain amount of solidity, style and nobility, harmoniously combining with any interior design, be it classic, hi-tech or modern.

The undoubted advantages of wooden structures are:

environmental friendliness;
unique pattern formed by annual rings;
high strength characteristics characteristic of hardwood varieties, including mahogany, oak, walnut, ash;
maintaining a presentable appearance for many years.

However, solid wood construction also has a number of disadvantages:

low moisture resistance;
tendency to deformation in conditions of high humidity, sudden temperature changes and other similar factors;
the large weight of individual structural elements makes it difficult to carry out installation on your own;
high price.

As a rule, finishing of arches with wood from valuable species is carried out by making finished design to order with subsequent installation by company specialists.

MDF panels

Almost equivalent alternative natural wood MDF panels are used, the production of which is based on the compression of wood chips. Depending on the top coating, MDF panels are distinguished:

laminated. The resulting slabs are covered polyvinyl chloride film, imitating the texture of wood and increasing the strength characteristics of the product;

veneered. The finished slabs are pressed with a thin layer of wood, after which front side The product is coated with a protective varnish.

Veneered panels differ from laminated materials in higher cost and better performance characteristics.

Advantages of MDF panels relative to structures made of natural wood:

environmental friendliness due to the absence of harmful substances and connections;
resistance to temperature changes, moisture;
ease of installation due to the light weight of the panels;
low cost.

Despite the mass positive aspects, MDF panels are inferior to arches decorated with real wood:

ease of damage through a targeted blow;
influenced sun rays gradually lose their original shade;
short operational period, rarely exceeding 5-7 years.

Decorating interior arches MDF panels with low cross-country ability increases the service life for several years, while maintaining original appearance designs.

Cork for finishing

Interior arches look original, the finishing of which is made using cork material, presented:

Panels. The basis of the products is pressed cork, on top of which a thin veneer impregnated with wax is placed. The minimum thickness of cork panels is 3 mm.

Rolled products, the structure of which is similar to cork panels, with the only difference being that not all product series are wax impregnated. Wherein roll material can have a varied range of colors by painting the front and/or back layers.

Wallpaper consisting of a paper base and a thin sheet of veneer glued to the base. Quite often, cork wallpaper has a self-adhesive layer, greatly simplifying installation work.

resistance to pinpoint impacts;
prevent the accumulation of dust;
do not lose their original shade over a long period;
have antibacterial characteristics, preventing the formation of mold;
service life is 10-20 years.

coatings not treated with wax quickly deform in conditions of high humidity;
ability to absorb odors;
high price.

When choosing cork material, you should give preference to a wax-treated coating.

Wallpaper for the arch

Finishing arches with wallpaper is one of the most popular and, at the same time, budget options due to a number of advantageous features relative to other finishing materials, including:

variety of colors, textures, ornaments;
ease of gluing;
the possibility of wet cleaning using non-aggressive detergents;
affordable price.

Flaws:

ease of damage both during gluing and during operation;
fading over a short period of time;
fragility.

When choosing canvases, you should give preference to plain non-woven, vinyl, bamboo or glass wallpaper. It is possible to have a small or abstract design that does not require combination with the ornament on the wallpaper that covers the walls adjacent to the arch.

Arch tiles

Tiling an arch is a less common, but still in demand method.

wide range of colors;
high resistance to moisture;
maintaining original characteristics for many years;
ease of care;
duration of operation.

the considerable weight of the tiles requires a strong arched structure;
labor-intensive work that requires certain skills or the involvement of specialists;
high price.

The optimal choice is narrow tiles of small size, allowing to minimize waste during tiling work.

Decorative rock

Arch finishing has become especially popular in recent years. decorative stone, goes well with others building materials. Fake diamond made from expanded clay, pumice, cement with the addition of mineral pigments, the combination of which allows you to achieve a complete imitation of any natural stones.

Advantages:

wide selection of shades, textures;
high resistance to damage;
moisture resistance;
ease of maintenance during operation;
durability.

Flaws:

heavy weight;
complexity of installation;
high price.

Along with tiles, it is preferable to clad the arch with stone small sizes, which will greatly facilitate installation in the vaulted part of the structure.

Mosaic for arch

Finishing an arch with mosaics is a rather painstaking process, which upon completion results in a mesmerizing spectacle.

Advantages of mosaic:

variety of sizes, shapes and colors;
moisture resistance;
high strength;
wear resistance;
durability.

Flaws:

duration and complexity of work;
high price.

Currently, metal, ceramic, glass and other types of mosaics are produced, so choose an option that matches style decision the interior will not be so difficult.

Decorative plaster

Almost the only material that allows you to create a unique masterpiece, showing a little imagination and creativity. Decorative plaster is sold in the form of a dry and ready-mixed product. In this case, the dry mixture is diluted with ordinary water in the proportion indicated on the instructions supplied with the composition.

the ability to create any expressive or smoothed relief;
ease of application;
possibility of repeated painting with special paints;
there is no need to carefully level the surface before applying plaster;
low cost.

ease of mechanical damage;
impossibility of wet cleaning;
repairs to the damaged area will remain visible;
relatively short operational period.

Finishing arches in an apartment with decorative plaster - universal method, requiring a small amount of time and a minimum of skills.

Regardless of the material chosen, before starting finishing work it is necessary to carefully prepare the working surface so as not to spoil the final result by the decor falling off along with the plaster or protruding unevenness.

Preparing the surface for finishing

The reliability of fixing the finishing material largely depends on the conscientiousness of the preparation of the working surface, during which it is necessary:

remove areas protruding by more than 1 cm, as well as poorly adhering putty and paint;
cover the joining seams, if the arch is made of plasterboard sheets;
prime the surface;
level the working base using putty;
prime.

After the primer mixture has completely dried, you can proceed to installation work.

Arch finishing technology

The process of finishing an arched opening with panels, wallpaper, stone and other materials is somewhat different.

Paneling

Finishing an arch in an apartment using panels made of MDF, plastic, or cork is possible in the absence of strongly rounded structural elements. Installation of the selected materials is carried out using glue or with a sheathing device.

Installation with glue is carried out as follows:

carry out thorough surface preparation;
mark and cut off excess parts of the panels before using the adhesive;
liquid nails or glue specially selected for the material used are applied to the underside of the panel in a zigzag stripe;
apply the panels to the surface and level them;
5-10 minutes after the glue has polymerized, tap the surface of the panel with a rubber hammer, controlling the horizontality with a building level.

Installation on the lathing does not require leveling the surface and looks like this:

in the arch opening, a sheathing is constructed from wooden blocks or metal guides, which is fixed to the surface using dowels;
At the top and bottom of the sheathing, start guides for mounting the panels are screwed with self-tapping screws;
panels cut to size are installed in the starting guides and fixed to the sheathing with self-tapping screws.

Upon completion of finishing, the ends of the arch must be refined by gluing special corners from the same finishing material.

Wallpaper finishing

Wallpapering technology depends on the type of wallpaper.

For thin wallpaper without using plastic corners:

a strip of wallpaper is glued to the wall adjacent to the arch so that the edges of the canvas protrude beyond the boundaries of the arch by 2-3 cm;
on the protruding allowance, zigzag cuts are made every 2 cm and the resulting tongues of the fabric are folded onto the inner surface of the arch, carefully rolled with a roller;
The walls on the other side of the arch are covered in the same way;
cut out a strip of wallpaper, the dimensions of which correspond to the width and length of the inner arch of the arch;
pasting inner surface arches are made from the bottom up, carefully rolling with a roller to get rid of air bubbles.

If the length of one strip of wallpaper is not enough, then the junction of the two strips is located in the center of the arch. If it is necessary to use 3 strips of wallpaper, the joining points are determined at the level of the connection of the arc of the arch with the vertical planes.

When using textile or vinyl wallpaper using framing:

pasted wallpaper on the walls adjacent to the arch is cut along the boundaries of the arch;
cut out a strip of wallpaper according to the dimensions of the inner surface of the arch and paste it on;
if necessary, trim the excess with a stationery knife;
after 2-3 days, when the glue has dried, fix the selected type of corner along the protruding elements of the arch.

Cork wallpaper is glued similarly to non-woven wallpaper, with the only difference being that ready-made acrylic or contact adhesive is used, which is applied to roll wallpaper, and onto the surface to be pasted.

Decorative stone or tiles

As a rule, stone cladding is carried out not only in relation to the arched opening, but also part of the walls adjacent to the opening through symmetrical or asymmetrical placement.

The order of preparatory activities:

notches are made on the previously puttied and primed surface to improve the adhesion of the material to the surface;
The stones intended for installation are laid out on the floor and the most advantageous combination of relief, pattern, and overflow is selected;
Using a metal brush, clean the underside of the material from foamy irregularities.

The opening is finished using cement mortar, or liquid nails from bottom to top. In this case, the walls adjacent to the arch are initially lined:

glue is applied to the wall and stone, not exceeding a layer of 1 cm, otherwise the tile will slide down;
the first stone is laid at the junction of the arched opening and the wall;
a second stone is laid on top of the first, shifting it toward the opening by the thickness of the stone;
the alternation of masonry is repeated to the intended level, which avoids sloppy corners and the use of framing elements in the form of corners, plinths and other elements;
finishing inside the arched opening is also done with an overlap.

To finish the top of the vault:

dry tiles/stones are applied to the intended place of gluing; Mark a line of excess with a pencil, along which you draw several times with a construction knife;
the unnecessary part is broken off using pliers;
burrs and irregularities are removed with a file and sandpaper.

1-2 days after finishing the facing work, they begin to join the seams:

a construction syringe is filled with grout;
to obtain a pronounced relief, the seams are filled, not reaching the upper edge of the stone by 3-4 mm;
to obtain a smoothed relief, the seam is filled at the same level as the upper border of the stone;
after 30-40 minutes, the filled seams are smoothed using a special spatula or spatula, getting rid of unevenness.

Tiling is done in the same way as decorative stone.

Mosaic finishing

It’s easier and faster to cover an arch with mosaics assembled in small matrices. Fixation of individual modules into matrices is carried out using paper, on which the mosaic is laid face down, and a fine mesh, which serves as the basis for gluing the modules with the wrong side down. Since mosaics are made from various materials, then for the installation of transparent modules a transparent adhesive is used, and for opaque ones - white.

The process of finishing an arch with mosaics boils down to the following:

When applying the matrix, mark the working surface area into separate segments according to the matrix dimensions.
Using a notched trowel, glue is applied to the wall to place a single matrix.
Carefully insert the set of modules into the adhesive composition, preventing the glue from getting on the front surface of the mosaic and adjusting the horizontal placement of the matrix using a building level.
Laying out all the necessary elements is repeated in the same way.
After setting adhesive solution, the protective layer of the mosaic is removed.
Grouting of joints is carried out in vertical and horizontal directions using a rubber spatula.
An hour after applying the grout, remove excess mortar by moving the spatula in diagonal directions.

At the end of the work, the mosaic must be wiped with a damp sponge to remove traces of grout, without making much effort to avoid washing it out of the seams.

In the process of finishing an arch with your own hands, it is necessary to control the horizontality of all modules of the matrix, so a person who is unsure of his abilities is better off entrusting the work to a professional specialist.

Finishing with decorative plaster

Using decorative plaster finishing of the arch, the photo of which is presented below, is carried out in a fairly short time as follows:

A small layer of plaster is applied to the previously prepared surface.
Using a grater, sponge and other available means, the pattern and relief of the future surface are formed.
If the relief is not sufficiently pronounced, plaster is added in the right places only after the first layer has dried. To achieve a decorative effect, it is often necessary to apply several layers of plaster.

Upon completion of the work and the surface has thoroughly dried (1-2 days), the arch is painted, varnish or other protective coating is applied.

You can see the finishing of the arch more clearly in the video:

Application of corners

Regardless of the strength of the material chosen for finishing the arch and the adjacent walls, the protruding parts of the structure after a fairly short period begin to wear out, fade, and peel, because the corners of the arch are subjected to heavy loads. The use of skirting boards and corners made of MDF, plastic, wood and other materials as additional framing will help to extend the life of decorative finishing, allowing not only to protect finishing material, but also to hide cracks, chips, and irregularities formed during the installation process.

Installation of corners is carried out using glue or liquid nails, which are applied to the inside of the material upon completion. finishing. In this case, finishing the arch with a corner begins with the sides and ends with the vaulted part.

Additional elements in the form of corners and skirting boards should be chosen several tones darker or lighter than the main finish in order to more clearly emphasize the shape of the arch.

Decorative finishing arches takes a lot of time and requires special care. Compliance with all stages of finishing with one or another material and leisurely execution of installation work will result in the finishing of the arch into a wonderful element of the interior, which for a long time will delight the owners of the house and their guests.