Cyclamen: care at home (photo). Growing, propagation, main problems when caring for cyclamen at home

For home breeding a wide variety of products that came to us from overseas lands are suitable. In particular, this includes the Kos breed, the very description of which already makes you think about breeding it at home. Let's take a closer look at this amazing representative of the flora and understand its basic requirements for cultivation.

Botanical description

Lighting

Despite the fact that cyclamen Kos is quite light-loving plant, hitting its leaves straight sun rays threatens to cause burns.

Therefore, window sills on the western or eastern side of the house are best suited for its placement. In case of emergency, you can place pots with plants on southern windows, only in this case you will have to block them.

Temperature characteristics and air humidity

When growing Kos cyclamen at home, it is important to provide it with optimal temperature regime. IN winter period Temperatures can be reduced to +11...+14 °C, but in summer it will be better if temperatures remain at +18...+25 °C. The most comfortable values for sufficient plant growth and flowering are +11…+14 °C.

Until the buds form, cyclamen must be regularly sprayed, but as soon as they appear, this procedure is stopped, otherwise they may rot. Water can also be added to the pan, but only if it is filled with expanded clay or pebbles.

Growing substrate

The composition of the soil mixture also plays an important role in successful cultivation flower. Therefore, in order to receive timely and abundant flowering It is so important to prepare the correct substrate.

The ideal option would be a mixture of leaf and turf soil (in equal proportions) with the addition of crushed limestone or crushed limestone. old plaster. We also must not forget about, since plants often suffer from even a slight excess of moisture.

Planting at home

Planting cyclamen at home can be done in two ways: by seeds and by dividing the tuber. Both processes cannot be called too complicated, but to obtain the most optimal result, you should approach the preparation of planting material competently and remember some of the nuances of the planting itself.

Seeds

All seed material must have an integral structure, and it is not necessary to buy it, because if you have a flowering cyclamen, then you can collect seeds from it.

Important! The shelf life of both purchased and homemade planting material is very limited and is no more than 2 years. If the package you choose has erased inscriptions or is slightly damp, this indicates improper storage conditions.

Having decided to grow seeds yourself, be prepared to carry out artificial cross pollination. To do this, use a brush to transfer pollen from one flower to another, which in principle is not difficult, since its structure makes it easy to carry out this procedure.

When the pollinated plant forms a capsule over time (it matures in about 4 months), all that remains is to extract the seeds from it and plant them in the prepared substrate. The main thing is that the container should not be too deep and there is no need to pour in a lot of soil mixture.

The grooves for the seeds are also made small - no more than 1 cm long. A gap of 3 cm is left between individual seeds. The seed material is covered with a small amount of earth, and it is very important to control the level of soil moisture. The first shoots will appear in a month.

Important! Do not be alarmed if the sown seeds do not appear immediately - at first the flower grows quite slowly and is recommended only, without adding any. As the first (performed no earlier than a month after planting) you can use.

Bloom young plant, planted by seed, is observed no earlier than after a year, and sometimes after three.

By dividing the tuber

Propagation of Kos cyclamen using tubers is possible, but not advisable at home. This procedure is performed during the plant's dormant period and will require some special knowledge from you.

Before dividing the onion, it is removed from the soil and thoroughly dried, after which it is cut into several parts (it’s better to start with only two). It is very important that each piece obtained contains a kidney.

All removed parts are crushed and dried again. Next, the whole process follows a standard scenario: each shoot is planted in a separate pot, deepened by several centimeters.

If you decide to purchase ready-made parts of the tuber, be sure to pay attention to the buds: they must be intact and without damage. Such a tuber is treated with a growth accelerator and left for a while in a bright place.

A young plant needs to be watered periodically, but not flooded, otherwise rotting may begin.

Propagation of cyclamen by dividing the tuber is a rather problematic process, especially for novice gardeners, but there is still a chance. As an alternative, children can also be used as planting material (they take root much faster).

Did you know? IN In the 18th century, cyclamen was called “pig bread” because it turned out that pigs deliberately tear up the ground in search of tubers and roots of the plant.

Features of caring for Kos cyclamen

Watering, fertilizing, pruning and replanting the plant into a new substrate play an important role in its cultivation. Proper care always ensures the harmonious development of any flower, which is why it is so important to know about all the possible nuances.

How to water a flower

Kos cyclamen, like many of its hybrids, requires regular but dosed watering, especially in. Liquid application is usually done by immersion, and when watering from above, it is important to control this process so that water does not get on the leaves and tubers.

It would be more correct to pour the liquid over the edge of the pot. During the dormant period, the plants reduce the amount of moisture, but do not allow the soil to dry out.

Top dressing

During the process of active flowering and growth of the plant, it must be fed once every 2 weeks, using a complex one (usually the required dosage is indicated on the package). After sowing the plant (when grown from seeds) in the first 6 months, together with mineral compounds you need to enter and .

Plant pruning

Pruning is practically not required for cyclamen Kos, but for its normal growth and development it is necessary to promptly remove faded flowers and wilted leaves, and the bases of the pedicels, which are prone to rotting, also need to be removed.

Correct transplant

Replanting cyclamen (not only Kos) should be done regularly: every year at the same time, before budding begins. Usually this time occurs in the middle of summer, when new leaves gradually begin to grow.

Do not underestimate the importance of this procedure, since within 12 months the soil in the pot is greatly depleted, which also deteriorates its structure. When replanting, you are required to completely replace the old soil mixture with a new one, with the obligatory removal of rotten and dead roots.

Important! If your plant is no more than 1.5 years old, then a pot with a diameter of about 8 cm is ideal for it, while for a three-year-old plant ideal option will be 15 cm.

If you want your cyclamen to live for a long time and delight you with its color, it is important to prepare the right soil mixture, which is most often created from leaf soil, sand and peat.

You will need a little more leaf soil than the other ingredients, which are taken in equal proportions. If you do not want to prepare the substrate yourself, you can purchase it at finished form in any specialized store.

Having dealt with the new soil and choosing the appropriate container for the further development of your cyclamen, make a small holes and lay drainage in the form of ordinary pebbles or expanded clay, which will protect the plant from waterlogging.

When pouring new soil into a pot, there is no need to compact it, and to improve the health of the cyclamen, simply remove (unscrew) a few old leaves before placing it in a new container. The replanting procedure itself requires carefully removing the plant from the old pot and equally carefully transferring it to the new one.

Cyclamen is a wonderful plant of the primrose family, delighting us with its flowering in the harshest time of the year - winter. Cyclamen persica (this is the most beautiful view for growing at home) - a short plant daylight hours, it does not require any additional lighting. All you need is a windowsill (preferably cool) and watering. Cyclamen loves light, but can grow and bloom successfully on windows of any orientation, with shading from the midday sun. Cyclamen is far from being as sissy as you imagine; in nature it grows in a fairly harsh climate, on rocky high mountain slopes in Israel, Greece, Turkey, etc. Cyclamen is much more resistant to diseases and pests than, for example, violet.

There are two ways to get cyclamen: buy a ready-made plant in a store or grow it from seeds. I’ll tell you about adapting store-bought plants another time; here I want to show you how to grow cyclamen from seeds. You can also buy baby cyclamen home grown, but there are only a few people selling such children.

Growing cyclamen from seeds is no more difficult than growing tomatoes. All you need to do is be patient for the first six months. This is the most difficult stage for lovers of such plants, since the first six months the seedlings emerge and grow very slowly.

Cyclamen grown from seeds is unpretentious, it is initially adapted to the conditions of your home, which cannot be said about store-bought plants, which are grown in greenhouses with the help of a fair amount of fertilizers and hormones, and are also often sold with an additional pest. The chances of store-bought cyclamen surviving at home are 50/50.

This is what a ripe cyclamen fruit with ripened seeds looks like - shake the seeds out of the box, dry them for several days and you can sow! The germination rate of “homemade” seeds is 100%, and they grow much faster and more friendly than their “store-bought” counterparts. But it should be noted that often the germination rate of store-bought seeds is 80 and even 100%. Rarely do you come across low-germinating ones - 30% of the seeds germinate. I came across non-germinating seeds only once - and I have already grown hundreds of them.

Sown seeds:

Before sowing, soak the seeds for 1 day in warm water, for example, in a cotton pad. The container for sowing must have drainage holes for water drainage, you also need to make drainage (foam plastic, expanded clay) at the bottom, 1.5-2 cm. Pour soil into the container for sowing (I use “Terra-Vita”), there should be soil about 6-7 cm, water the soil a little and place the seeds at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other. Sprinkle a 1.5-2 cm layer of earth on top.

It is better to place the seeds in a cool place, from +10 to +20 - in cool conditions the seeds germinate faster. Many people write that seeds require darkness - this is not necessary, but a low temperature is desirable. At a temperature of +10 +20, seeds germinate in four weeks, if the temperature is above +20 - after 8 weeks or longer. On average, the period from sowing to germination ranges from 1 to 3 months. Make sure that the seeds do not dry out, but you should not “flood” them either; the soil should be moderately moist. If you do close the container with crops, ventilate it periodically.

1 month since germination, 2 months from the date of sowing:

About a month or two after sowing, the first pink-purple loops of seedlings will appear. A cyclamen seed germinates like this: first a root emerges with a tiny tuber - it takes root in the soil, then a shoot loop with a leaf unfolds. On at this stage common problem for amateurs - a non-removable seed skin on a single leaf of the seedling. Usually, if the humidity is high enough, the seedlings gradually remove the “cap” themselves, but it happens that they remain in it for quite a long time - in fact, this is not scary, because new leaves will come from the nodule located in the ground. Many amateurs remove the “caps” of stubborn seedlings on their own - armed with tweezers or nail scissors, you first need to spray the peel 40 minutes beforehand to soften it, or put a piece of wet cotton wool on it.

If your hands are not shaking from a hangover, you can try this method. Its disadvantage is that you can tear off the only leaf of the seedling along with this peel. But this is not fatal either - I repeat, new leaves will come from the nodule. However, if you are not confident in your ability to perform such jewelry operations, refrain and just wait until the seedlings themselves get rid of the remnants of the seeds. You can lightly spray them during this period. But make sure that the crops are not waterlogged; the soil should be moist, but not wet.

Also at this time, if the seedlings were planted deep, you need to free the top of the nodule from the ground, the cyclamen nodule should be 1/3 freed from the soil so that the growing point does not rot. This also applies to adult plants; in adults, ½ above the soil level is allowed.

4 months from the date of sowing:

During the first 3 months, cyclamen seedlings practically do not grow - at first glance. At this time, their nodule and root system are actively growing, practically no new leaves appear, and for the first 3 months the seedling can stand with only 1 leaf. Sometimes the second leaf appears a month after germination, sometimes longer - after 3 months. At this time, you need to make sure that the babies do not dry out; in general, in the first year of life, cyclamens love constantly moist soil. This is the key to reliable plant growth. Plants can be kept at temperatures from +5 (tested) and above.

4 months from the date of sowing:

When the seedlings have a second/third leaf, they can be planted (picked). Typically, picking occurs 3-4 months after sowing. You need to dive carefully, with a clod of earth, it can be used for further cultivation seedling boxes or small pots/cups, not forgetting about drainage. Seedlings tolerate picking well and significantly increase their growth after it.

Seedlings are 6 months from the date of sowing:

This is what the seedlings look like 6 months from the date of sowing. The most difficult stage is over! Now everything will go faster and more fun! For the first six months, it is better not to feed cyclamen seedlings at all, then you can use a weak solution of mineral fertilizer for flowering ones. You can do without this.

9 months from the date of sowing:

This is what the seedlings look like 9 months from the date of sowing. They are already pleasing to the eye. Flower buds appear on many. By the year the seedlings usually bloom or bloom in just over a year.

This seedling is 1 year old, it already has buds and is about to bloom. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that it is located on an unheated loggia, where the temperature drops to 0-5 C. In the cool weather, cyclamens form a very compact rosette of leaves, but even at higher temperatures these plants feel great (on my windowsill it rises to +30) - the socket will simply be looser. Also, cyclamen are not afraid of drafts - not a single one of my cyclamen froze when I ventilated the room in winter at -30.

An important point is watering, I always water from above along the edge of the pot, I never use watering in a tray. The only thing you need to pay attention to when watering: do not pour water on the tuber and the growing point of the plant. It may rot. Water the soil around the edge of the pot.

Up to a year, cyclamens like the soil to be moist; after a year, adult individuals require moderate watering during the summer months - once every few days, with a small amount of water.

These plants are a little more than a year, in nature, summer is a dormant period for Persian cyclamens, but modern Persian cyclamens have lost a clear line between the dormant period and the period active growth and flowering. Therefore, “Persians” often bloom in summer. My cyclamen “fantasy” has been blooming continuously since the end of November 2009 to this day (August 2010). But if in the summer your plant has shed some of its foliage, it means that the cyclamen is going dormant, watering should be reduced, but in no case should you stop watering completely. The pot with the plant can be removed into the shade, or left in the same place. Transplantation into fresh soil is usually done at the end of August, before active growth of cyclamen begins.

Information based on mine personal experience and knowledge gleaned from various sources. Good luck to you, dear cyclamen lovers!!!

Cyclamen is a peacemaker. At least such properties are attributed to him. It is a herbaceous perennial whose characteristic feature is winter flowering. He is handsome with some kind of proud beauty, and good care It has been pleasing its owners for years. The leaves of the flower have a green marble color and a heart-shaped or round shape. Flowers on tall stems can be of a wide variety of colors, and look like butterflies perched on the leaves.

Features of growing cyclamen

The main feature of this indoor plant is the active winter period - the time of growth and flowering. This period begins in autumn and ends towards the end of spring. Then the plant rests for 2-3 months.

Caring for cyclamen requires painstaking care, because the plant is quite capricious. He does not like bright light and dry air. There are specific features of watering and replanting plants.

Cyclamen is very sensitive to pests and various diseases, so it is better to sterilize the soil for it.

Growing cyclamen at home is not always successful, so most often it is bought in the store. But with good care, the flower lives a long time.

A special feature of planting cyclamen is the way it is placed in a pot. Tuber round shape placed in the ground not completely, but only half or two-thirds.

There are two ways to plant cyclamen.

Tubers. In order to plant a tuber, it is cut with a clean knife, separating parts with “eyes” similar to potato ones. Moreover, the tuber pieces are not buried in drops, but placed on the ground and left open. For germination, you need a dark place or a dark film to cover the tray with seedlings.

Important! Propagation of a plant by a tuber is only possible if it has several growth points (eyes).

Seeds. The seeds are obtained from the cyclamen fruit, which is formed after flowering.

The best time for planting is considered to be the end of summer, when the plant emerges from hibernation and the first leaves appear on its tubers.

Soil for the plant

Cyclamen does not like too loose soil. He prefers leafy soil as organic matter. If you buy soil in a store (there is a special one for cyclamen), you need to treat it with a solution of potassium permanganate (standard bright pink for all house plants), after steaming it. Then add perlite and sand to this soil in a 2:1 ratio, respectively. Cyclamen loves slightly acidic soil.

Features of care are due to the sensitivity of this flower, both to inappropriate conditions and susceptibility to disease.

The plant needs bright, but diffused light. If you place it on the windows, then just not on the south side. The location should be such that it is not exposed to excessive heat from central heating radiators. Cyclamen does not tolerate any smoke, so it is not advisable to place it in the kitchen or where people smoke. The room where cyclamen grows should be well ventilated.

Cyclamen requires high humidity. Sufficient humidity is achieved by placing the flower pot on a tray with wet pebbles or expanded clay. You can simply spray the room with water, thereby creating increased humidity.

Temperature

Cyclamen does not tolerate heat indoors. Optimal temperature for it during the flowering period it is about +18 degrees. But apartment dwellers are unlikely to want to freeze in winter, even for the sake of this beautiful flower. Therefore, you need to find a window sill where the temperature is lowest and ventilate the room more often. During the dormant period from May to August, the flower is comfortable at +15, and from August to November, when it gains strength, growth and color, it is better to keep it at +20 - +18 degrees.

Watering

Cyclamen requires unusual watering. Under no circumstances should water get on the leaves or tuber. This leads to fungal diseases. Water the flower as follows. The pan is filled with water, and the plant takes exactly as much as it needs. If after some time (10-15 minutes) there is still water in the pan, it must be drained. Some gardeners believe that top watering is acceptable as long as the plant does not throw out its flower stalks. The soil should dry out between waterings.

During flowering, the plant requires more water, but not too much, otherwise the root will begin to rot. As soon as the cyclamen stops flowering and begins to shed its leaves, watering should be reduced, but the soil should still be moist. During the dormant period, watering is practically stopped and only care is taken to ensure that the tuber does not dry out.

Important! Water for irrigation should be several degrees cooler than room temperature.

Fertilizer is applied only during flowering. For feeding, conventional mixtures of complex complexes are used. mineral fertilizers for indoor flowers. High potassium content is desirable. Fertilizing is done once every 14 days along with the next watering. It should be stopped in March and not fertilized until August. Then, after planting the tuber, resume. Excessive fertilizer can cause rapid leaf growth and poor flowering.

Important! Do not use fertilizers with a high nitrogen content, this reduces the resistance of cyclamen to infections.

Trimming

Cyclamen is not pruned. During the flowering period, as well as after it, carefully remove yellowed leaves and faded peduncles. Moreover, the flower stalks should not be cut, but rather twisted from their base, so that the parts remaining in the tuber do not lead to rotting.

Reproduction of cyclamen

Cyclamen is propagated in order to obtain new flower. There are only two ways - tuber and seeds. Both methods are not very effective at home, although if all requirements are met you can get healthy flowering plant. Most varieties of cyclamen are propagated by seeds.

Reproduction methods

Growing cyclamen from seeds

You can buy them or grow them yourself. To obtain seeds yourself, you must first cross-pollinate those flowers from which you plan to obtain a seed capsule. This can be done with a soft brush. When the flowers wither, there is no need to remove them. Wait until the seed pod begins to open and remove the seeds from it. They need to be soaked in warm water for 24 hours. The seeds should be sown far apart from each other, sprinkled with vermiculite about 5 millimeters on top.

It stimulates plant growth well and makes them decorative. Shoots need to wait from one to two months. During this time, boxes with seedlings should be kept in a dark place at a temperature no higher than +20 degrees. When the seedlings have 2-3 leaves, they can be planted in separate pots and placed in the light. Flowering will begin in 12 – 18 months. Interesting fact: plants grown from “their own” seeds adapt to the microclimate of the apartment much more easily than those grown from purchased ones.

tuber

The tuber must have several eyes. You need to dry the tuber and separate the piece with the eye with a sharp knife. The cut area is dried and sprinkled with charcoal (activated carbon can be used). The piece with the bud is planted in a pot as usual. Despite following all planting rules, tubers often begin to rot

Important! Propagation by tubers should be done only during the dormant period.

Cyclamen blooms very beautifully and for a long time. To maintain the duration of flowering, you just need to fulfill several conditions:

Remove the first flower stalks (very carefully, without damaging the tuber)
Cut flowers when they begin to wilt. This will give the plant more strength to produce new flowers.
Move the leaves to the edges of the pot, freeing the middle of the plant.

When the plant blooms (flowering period), flower shape

Most cyclamen varieties bloom in autumn and winter. An exception is European cyclamen, whose active period is in spring and summer, although it can bloom almost all year round, if the right conditions are created for him.

The flowers have the most different colors and shades - from pink to red and purple. At the base of the petals the color is more saturated. Number of petals -5, bent shape. Cyclamen exudes a subtle, unobtrusive aroma. The smell of European cyclamen is stronger.

Plant care after flowering

Faded cyclamen begins to lose leaves. This means that he is preparing to rest. You need to cut off the remaining flowers, remove (cut or screw in) the yellowed leaves and stop watering it. It is best to turn the pot on its side and leave it in a cool place. Now until the end of summer you just need to keep the tuber moist.

Cyclamen is susceptible to diseases and pests, so you need to carefully monitor its condition, especially during the flowering period.

Problems:

Flowers fade quickly. This means that the plant does not have enough mineral fertilizing and it's too hot
Leaves and flowers begin to rot. Abundant watering, you need to dry the tuber a little
Deformation of leaves and flowers. Most likely, pests have appeared.

Diseases

Tuber rot is not of infectious origin. Symptoms are yellowing and wilting of the leaves and areas of rot on the tubers. The plant is not saved. To avoid rot, you should choose soil optimal acidity(weak), do not plant the tuber too deeply and avoid over-wetting it.
Leaf bronzing virus. The sign is deformation of the plant. The virus is spread by thrips. Do not save a diseased plant. If cyclamen is planted in a greenhouse or in the ground (European in summer), place it in this place sticky tape for thrips. The same goes for the virus. ring mosaic. The sign is a characteristic ring pattern and cracking of the leaves.
Anthracnose. The sign is the cessation of growth and flowering of the plant, weakened young shoots and an empty middle of the flower. At the first signs of disease, treat with fungicides. Prevention - timely fight against gray rot.
Gray rot. The sign is lethargy and wateriness of the leaves, the appearance of a grayish coating. Remove affected parts of the plant, reduce humidity. Treatment with antifungal agents is secondary to plant hygiene.

Pests

Flower thrips, spider mite, aphids. They are fought with the help of insecticides. Severely affected plants are destroyed. The main signs of flower damage by pests are deformation and falling of leaves, and the appearance of spots on flower petals.

How to buy cyclamen correctly?

Unfortunately, it often happens that cyclamen brought from the store dies even with the most careful care. To prevent this from happening, when purchasing (if you make it in the fall), you need to pay attention to the following:

The leaves should be juicy and green
There should be a lot of buds (look under the leaves)
The tuber is one third or half above the ground (for European cyclamen it should be completely covered)
There are no leftover leaves sticking out of the ground, and the substrate does not smell moldy.

Do not be upset that the leaves fall and the flower does not want to bloom if you purchased it in the spring. Cyclamen is preparing for a period of rest and this is a natural process. It is necessary to reduce watering and place the pot with the plant in a dark place.

Replanting cyclamen after purchase

Cyclamen is replanted after purchase only if it was planted in transport soil (peat). You need to remove the plant from the pot and gently but thoroughly rinse the root with warm water to remove any peat that has stuck to it. Try not to damage the bulb at the growing point. After washing the root, treat it with root.

Transplant method

Cyclamen does not need a spacious pot. Drainage is placed at the bottom, then soil. A tuber is laid out on the ground. Ideally, the distance from the tuber to the walls of the pot should be no more than 3 cm. Then fill the remaining free space with the substrate, leaving 13 parts of the tuber on the surface.

Types and varieties

Cyclamen European (purple)

The most popular species in the Soviet Union. It differs from other species in its flowering period and practically absent dormant period. Blooms well in garden beds in summer. Requires the same care as other varieties of cyclamen. Replanted less frequently - once every two to three years. It is named purple because the lower part of the leaves is reddish in color.

Cyclamen persica

Found naturally in the Mediterranean region, it has a more pronounced aroma. The flower can grow up to 30 centimeters. The color of the petals is white, red and pink. Winter flowering, dormant period - May - July. Has many varieties. Reproduces only by seeds.

Cyclamen Caucasian (Kos)

The flowers are small - up to one and a half centimeters, the color is white, red and lilac-pink, with a pronounced color intensity at the base. The entire plant is about 10 cm high. It blooms from February to April, the dormant period is long - until late autumn.

Cyclamen ivy-leaved

So named because of the ivy-like shape of its leaves. Flowering period September – October. It has a peculiarity - it first begins to bloom, then produces leaves. Small pink flowers(no more than one and a half centimeters). Ivy-leaved cyclamen needs to be replanted less often; it does not tolerate this procedure well.

Cyclamen Victoria

It is a variety of Persian and blooms very beautifully. The flowers are variegated in color from white to crimson. It is distinguished by a flowering period that is uncharacteristic for Persian cyclamen. With good care it can bloom from spring to mid-autumn.

Cyclamen mix

Cyclamen mix is not a separate species. It is distinguished by the color of the petals, as if transitioning smoothly from one color to another.

Cyclamen patio mix

Patio is a miniature version of cyclamen. Flowers - from white to carmine color

Difficulties in growing a plant

Some gardeners believe that there are no difficulties in growing and caring for cyclamen. In fact, this is true, it’s just that this care must be thorough and painstaking.

Here are some tips that will be useful to cyclamen lovers:

Warm up the soil a little before planting seeds. This way there will be fewer rot diseases
European or purple cyclamen almost does not “go away” during the dormant period, and requires feeding all year round (reduce it slightly in the winter months).
Plant European cyclamen in a low, wide pot, this is due to the somewhat flattened shape of its tuber

Answers to readers' questions

Plant lifespan

The plant is a long-liver if the rules of its maintenance are followed. Can live and bloom up to 40 years.

Is it possible to keep this plant at home?

It is possible and necessary, it is believed that it brings peace and tranquility to the house, calms children and attracts friends.

Is this flower poisonous?

Cyclamen bulbs are poisonous; it is advisable to do replanting with gloves. May cause severe skin inflammation.

Why is cyclamen not blooming?

There can be many reasons - from pests to improper growing conditions. If it's not pests, it means he's just hot. It is necessary to lower the temperature, increase ventilation and humidification.

Why do the leaves turn yellow (wither, dry out)?

This may be a consequence of drying out or, conversely, waterlogging of the plant. Adjust the watering mode. And also pay attention to whether the flower is sick.

Why do cyclamen leaves curl?

The leaves curl if the flower is sick or damaged by a pest. This is described in the corresponding chapter.

How does the plant overwinter?

For cyclamen, winter is a period of activity; it blooms vigorously and requires increased attention.

Cyclamen belongs to perennial plants. The flower is blooming late autumn and in winter, throwing out up to 15 buds of various shades: from salmon and soft pink to rich lilac and purple. At home, it is recommended to grow European and Persian varieties, as well as their hybrids with terry and corrugated petals. To get healthy and beautiful plants, you should select high-quality seeds and carefully care for them.

Good and bad seed

When buying bags of future cyclamens at a flower shop, you should check the expiration date seed material. Fresh specimens have almost one hundred percent germination rate, and expired varieties turn into sprouts only in rare cases. More often they rot and die.

Purchased seeds must be sorted, separating the viable seed from the empty shells. Check planting material Just:

Dissolve 20–30 g in a glass of water table salt or white sugar.
Dip cyclamen seeds into the liquid and stir for 5 minutes.
Wait until one part of the seed floats to the surface and the second settles to the bottom.
Drain the solution along with the empty shells. They will be at the top.
Wash the seeds that have settled to the bottom clean water and soak until they swell and increase in size.

“Zircon” should be added to the container with future cyclamens. The product helps the seeds adapt to the substrate, stimulates flower growth and increases its resistance to diseases. You can do without the additive by simply soaking the seed in warm water for 1–2 days.

The swollen seeds, without drying, are immediately planted in wooden box filled with a special mixture. Cyclamen will need 30–40 days to hatch and become stronger. During this period, it is important to protect the seeds from sudden temperature changes and not to fill them with water, otherwise even the strongest and most hardened planting material will begin to rot and die.

Nutrient substrate

Cyclamen are not too picky and can take root in almost any soil. The main thing is that the land meets three criteria:

did not turn into a dense lump when drying;
allowed the root system to breathe;
removed excess moisture into the pan, rather than retaining it inside the pot.

Some gardeners recommend peat. Yes, the material is nutritious and contains many minerals that will accelerate the growth of cyclamens, but there is one drawback: such soil will absorb too much moisture. You will have to constantly ensure that the middle and bottom layers of peat have time to dry before the next watering, otherwise root system the plant is attacked by a fungus and the flower dies.

Leafy soil contains many nutritional components. Choose varieties with undecayed remains of bark and fallen leaves. Turf soil is also suitable. Soil brought from the forest or garden must be calcined, doused with boiling water or disinfected in a double boiler. High temperatures will kill insect eggs and weed spores, as well as fungus and disease.

Peat or soil is mixed with coarse sand or fine perlite to make the substrate loose. Cyclamens grow better in slightly acidic or neutral soil, so when high level pH, it is advisable to add 10–20 g of dolomite flour to the substrate.

You will need a shallow, wide box made of wood or plastic. Seeds should not be planted in separate pots until they have germinated. A weak root system is not able to occupy all the space, so the soil begins to sour and mold. As a result, young shoots get sick and die.

Planting cyclamen seeds is easy:

Line the bottom of the box with expanded clay, small pebbles or grated foam. The material performs the function of drainage.
Fill halfway with substrate, which is compacted tightly. Use a toothpick to make shallow holes or grooves for the seeds.
Place wet planting material on the substrate. Cover with a thin layer of sand, which will provide the sprouts with air and will not allow moisture to stagnate.
Add 0.5–1 cm of peat or nutrient soil on top.
Moisten with a spray bottle.
Cover with glass or cling film. The result will be a kind of greenhouse.

At the first stage, cyclamens do not need light or abundant watering. Seeds should be protected from drafts and sudden temperature changes. Hatched sprouts are ventilated daily by lifting the glass or slightly opening the film. Keep the box away from open windows and cracks so that the draft does not cause the death of cyclamens.

The lid is removed after the formation of the first full leaf. The seedlings are given several days to adapt, and then transplanted into new separate containers.

Picking rules

Pots are chosen of medium depth with a small diameter. The flower will live in them for a year, maximum two, and after that you will have to transplant the plant into a more spacious pot. One large hole is made in the bottom, into which a string of gauze or a short thick rope is threaded. Cyclamens cannot be watered like ordinary indoor flowers. Water is detrimental to the root collar and leaf rosette, so it should come from below, not from above. Thanks to the rope, the plant receives required amount liquids.

Picking cyclamens occurs in several stages:

Fill the pot with any drainage material.
Fill the pot halfway with substrate with the addition of sand and perlite.
Water the soil generously in the box in which the cyclamen grow. This makes it easier to remove the sprouts and not damage the root system.
Transfer seedlings with lumps of soil to a pot. Add the substrate and compact it tightly, leaving the root collar on the surface.
Do not water for several days, let the flowers absorb the liquid from the lump of earth with which they were transferred to a new pot.
After a week, fertilize the seedlings with ammonium sulfate solution. The mineral supplement will speed up the adaptation of cyclamens and protect fragile flowers from diseases.
7 days after the first fertilization, the result should be secured with a solution of potassium nitrate.

Important: Picking of cyclamens is carried out 3–4 months after emergence. The sprouts will have time to get stronger, and transplantation will not be too stressful for them.

Pots with young flowers are placed on a special tray filled with small or medium pebbles. A drainage layer is necessary so that the substrate always remains slightly moist, but not wet.

Daylight hours, watering and temperature conditions

Boxes with seeds are kept in cool rooms where the temperature does not fall below +16–14 and does not rise above +18–19. In warm weather, the plant goes dormant and its development slows down. To make the flower grow faster and more actively, the box can be placed in the basement or taken out to the balcony if it is early spring outside. But cold can also destroy seedlings, so cyclamens protect against frost and low temperatures. If the thermometer shows +5–10, the seedlings should be brought into the house. Adult flowers feel comfortable at +20 and below. The heat weakens exotic plant, it becomes more vulnerable and may get sick.

Sprouts that have not yet hatched do not need light. But when the first purple threads appear, the container with flowers is moved to the western or eastern window or a phytolamp is installed next to them. Direct ultraviolet radiation is dangerous for cyclamen. The sun burns and injures the leaves and dries out the soil. In summer, flowers are shaded and hidden in the far corners of the house, where it is cool and the light is dim. You should hang tulle, lace translucent curtains or blinds on the windows so that they diffuse and soften the sun's rays.

Water the cyclamen with settled, filtered water. You can collect it from the tap or collect rainwater. The liquid does not need to be heated, but neither does ice water. the best choice. Let it be at room temperature or a little warmer.

Do not pour water into a pot, but into a tray. Leave for 30–50 minutes so that the plant has time to “drink.” Carefully drain the rest. You cannot create a swamp that will harbor fungus or mold.

In summer, it is useful to humidify the air around the cyclamen with a spray bottle to protect the plant from the heat. Carefully spray the liquid from a spray bottle at a distance of 30–40 cm from the top of the flower. It is impossible for droplets of moisture to fall on the stems and root collar, as well as buds and blossoming inflorescences.

Tip: You can periodically wipe the cyclamen leaves with a damp sponge or cotton wool to remove dust and prevent the appearance of spider mites.

Helpful information

During the first 3–4 months after picking, exotic flowers practically do not grow upward because they are growing tubers and root systems. As soon as the lower part of the plant fills the pot, the top will become thicker, and after 7-8 months buds will appear.
It is recommended to plant cyclamen seeds in March or April, when it is cool and not too sunny.
Exotic flowers should be fertilized 1–2 times a month, adding weak solutions. When the cyclamen sheds its leaves and enters the hibernation stage, you should stop adding supplements and reduce watering. When there is an excess of mineral salts in the soil, the plant weakens and withers.
When the flower “wakes up” and the first leaves appear, it should be transplanted into a new, more spacious pot.

Even amateur gardeners who are just learning this subtle science can grow cyclamen from seeds. You need to hide the exotic plant from the sun, keep it in a cool room and periodically moisten the soil. If you follow simple rules, just a year after planting the seeds, exotic flowers will get stronger and throw out their first buds.

Video: how to grow cyclamen from seeds

With the onset of cold weather, when all the plants have already withered and the foliage has fallen, it will certainly lift your spirits with its spectacular “butterfly” flowers, as if fluttering above the silver-green leaves with unique stains. Its homeland is the Mediterranean coast. As a potted crop, two types of cyclamens have gained wide popularity: Persian and European. They bloom in winter, when no other plant pleases us. It is a perennial, corm-forming plant. It is typical that cultivation is carried out. Reproduction by dividing the tuber is not recommended because the tuber can quickly rot and die.

Sowing seeds can be done at any time, it’s just that the time of the first flowering will directly depend on the date of the last transshipment, when the tuber is buried to 2/3 of its height. But it is best to start growing in February-March, then the plants can bloom within a year, in March. Seeds are soaked for 12 hours in a growth stimulant or potassium permanganate and sown in a prepared, steamed earthen mixture (soil mixture + sand in a ratio of 4:1). They are embedded to a depth of no more than 1 centimeter. Seeds are placed in a pre-watered groove at a distance of 3-4 centimeters and sprinkled with earth. Cyclamen seeds germinate in the dark at 18 - 20 degrees. To do this, the planting container is covered not only with glass or film, but also with dark paper until germination. Shoots appear no earlier than a month later. Some varieties have a long germination time, so don’t despair in advance; they can please you even after a couple of months.

The emerging seedlings should be moved into the light, but to a place where they are not threatened by direct midday sun.

After the appearance of the first true ones, with the coloring of leaves characteristic of cyclamen, the plant must be picked. For the first pick, you can use a common container, but the distance between the shoots must be at least 5 centimeters. It is best to carry out picking in individual containers filled with loose soil (we can recommend a soil mixture of the “Tulip” type), ensuring sufficient drainage. During the first picking, the already formed nodule is lightly sprinkled with earth.

Growing cyclamen from seeds is characterized by the fact that in the first year the young plants do not rest. The second picking should be done at the age of 7-8 months in pots with a diameter of no more than 10-11 centimeters. The tubers should be buried in moist soil to 2/3 of their height. When used skillfully agrotechnical techniques- shading, spraying, precise dosage of mineral fertilizers, you can achieve enhanced growth of young cyclamens and their flowering a year after planting the seeds. It is also necessary to form bushes. Mature leaves are spread apart and lightly pinned with straightened paper clips or hairpins. This technique promotes the formation of flower buds.

Growing cyclamen from seeds requires following some basic rules:

When transplanting plants into a new container, you cannot use soil mixtures that contain fresh or poorly rotted manure. Tubers may rot and die;

When transshipping, you should remember that large pots are contraindicated for cyclamens; the soil in them quickly turns sour and the roots rot. There should be no more than 3 centimeters between the edge of the pot and the corm;

When planting, cyclamen should not be buried more than 2/3 of the tuber height, because this protects the growing point and stimulates the formation of flower buds;

An excess of mineral fertilizers is not recommended for young plants, so they should be applied in a minimal amount (1/2 tsp of complex flower fertilizer per liter of water). In the period before flowering, plants should be fed two to three times;

Watering should be carried out only in the pan, since if water gets on the plant tuber, the flower buds may rot;

When flower buds appear, ensure the ambient temperature is about 18 degrees and reduce watering.

Seeds are one of the ways to enjoy magnificent plants, spectacularly blooming in winter time, causing us delight and a feeling of unreality against the background of patterned frosty window glass.