What to plant in the garden - a list. We systematize the planting of crops in a summer cottage, observing the rules of crop rotation in the garden. Before planting garden crops, people carefully

Carrots grow well after cabbage, and beets grow well after parsley and parsnips. Knowing such wisdom, you can get an excellent harvest of vegetables.

It's time to plan what and where to plant on the site. Remember that proper rotation (fruit rotation) of vegetable crops not only increases productivity, but also protects plants from diseases and pests.

Each vegetable has its own mineral

Various vegetables consume minerals during growth, depleting the soil. But each plant has its own “menu”. Potatoes and cabbage are rich in potassium and nitrogen. But cabbage also loves phosphorus, just like tomatoes and radishes... Therefore, if you plant the same crop several times in a row, even if you add fertilizers, the soil is still unilaterally depleted.

Any crop planted in a garden bed that prefers the same minerals as its predecessor will feel uncomfortable. For example, tomatoes located in the same bed for the second season in a row or planted immediately after cabbage will lack phosphorus. In addition, each plant releases substances into the soil that suppress the growth of the same crop next year, which also leads to a decrease in yield.

Another danger lies in the accumulation in the soil of pathogenic bacteria and pest larvae that “specialize” on a particular plant. For example, it is not recommended to plant tomatoes or peppers after potatoes. And vice versa. Why? All of them belong to the nightshade family and can suffer from late blight. If late blight spores get into the soil, they remain viable for several more years. And by repeating the sowing of crops susceptible to late blight in this place, we thereby only “feed” the disease.

And the Colorado potato beetle, waking up after hibernation, in the absence of potatoes, he will willingly switch to tomatoes and even peppers.

They grow poorly one after another in any combination: cabbage, radishes, turnips, radishes. They can all get clubroot. But with the correct planting sequence, it is much easier to resist diseases and pests.

Rotating vegetable crops also helps control weeds. Plants with well-developed, fast-growing foliage (cabbage, potatoes, beans, squash and others) have the ability to suppress weeds. Conversely, crops that slowly develop a small rosette of leaves (carrots, beets) are very vulnerable to weeds. So it’s good to alternate these two groups of plants with each other.

A special place in the garden should be reserved for perennial vegetable plants (rhubarb, asparagus, sorrel). They are usually placed at the end of the plot or along its perimeter, so that they do not shade other plants.

Attention

Related crops with similar needs:

peas, beans, beans, chickpeas (legume family);

potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers (nightshade family);

radish, turnip, rutabaga, radish, cabbage, watercress, horseradish, leaf mustard, rapeseed (family cruciferae);

carrots, dill, celery, parsley, parsnips, caraway seeds, coriander, anise (Zonticaceae family);

beets, chard, spinach (polyaceae family);

cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, squash, zucchini (cucurbitaceae family);

sorrel, rhubarb (buckwheat family);

basil, peppermint, lemon balm, marjoram, thyme (Laminaceae family);

leaf lettuce, head lettuce, estra gon (Asteraceae family);

onions, garlic (lily family).

By the way

Onions and carrots are “friends”. Planted nearby, they successfully protect themselves from pests. Each of them has its own pest - the carrot fly and the onion fly, respectively. But the onion fly cannot tolerate the smell of carrots, and the carrot fly disappears if onions grow nearby.

It is better not to plant tomatoes and cucumbers nearby. For successful growth, tomatoes need dry, hot air and infrequent but abundant watering. Excessive soil moisture provokes late blight in tomatoes. Cucumbers prefer warm, damp conditions. Absolutely different approach for these vegetables and for fertilizers. Unlike cucumber, tomato does not tolerate manure. Therefore, even in open ground You shouldn’t set up beds of cucumbers next to beds of tomatoes, and let’s not even talk about greenhouses. But you can alternate them with each other.

Onions, potatoes, carrots can be grown in one place long time, if the soil is not contaminated with pathogens.

adviсe

Seven rules for crop rotation:

1 It is not recommended to plant crops that require early landing after crops that were harvested late. For example, carrots, parsley, cabbage and some other crops are kept in the ground until lasting frosts. Naturally, during the winter the frozen soil will not have time to recover.

2 Make sure that you do not plant crops of the same species and family one after another in the same place.

3 It is best to return plants from groups unfavorable to each other to their former “place of residence” after 3-4 years. Main culture

can be returned to the original bed earlier if grains (wheat, rye, oats) or green fertilizer are sown after it.

4 It is useful to alternate crops with deep and shallow roots, then the former can get food from deeper soil horizons.

5 Rotate plants based on their ability to resist weeds.

6 It is advisable to divide the plot into two halves so that on one half you can grow vegetables that grow well after applying manure, and on the second - crops that do not tolerate manure. With this division you will ensure the opportunity to grow a wide variety of crops every year.

7 It is necessary to include legumes in crop rotation, as they enrich the soil with nitrogen. They are good predecessors for almost any crop.

Do garden crops need to be planted in other places? — Many gardeners will ask. Yes, be sure to change where you plant your plants. Not necessarily every year. Each vegetable feeds on soil substances differently. If you plant plants such as cabbage in the same place for many years, the harvest will become worse and worse every year. The soil is wearing out. What do potatoes eat? This plant takes up 3 times more potassium than cabbage. Cabbage takes up twice as much nitrogen and four times as much lime as .

Important!

Dear gardeners, flower growers and builders. Send us your stories about growing vegetables, flowers and other plants. We are waiting for your photos with you and your family against the background of the plantings. Photos will be posted on the website in the gallery section or in a feature article.

In what order should plants be planted so that they grow better??

Download the memo

- onions and garlic after cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage, .

- tomatoes, peppers, eggplants after cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, peas, early cabbage and cauliflower.

If you are planting early crops, then after emptying the beds, you can also plant other plants in their place, for example:

- early radishes, after which sow lettuce, dill, radishes for autumn. Their ripening time is short.

- lettuce, dill, early onions, after them plant tomatoes, late cabbage.

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The principle of changing crops or crop rotation has been known to farmers for a very long time. In the old days, this technique of temporary and territorial alternation of plants was called multifield. In addition to changing crops, one of the fields was very often left unsown, that is, the land was kept fallow. With the development of science, multi-field farming has received justification from the point of view of agrobiology, agrochemistry, and economics.

In small areas, it is unlikely that it will be possible to organize a complete crop rotation, including fallow, however, we will try to find out what can be planted in the garden after that. This will help you maintain proper crop rotation.

This article has helped many gardeners stop working hard on their plots and still get a bountiful harvest.

I would never have thought that in order to get best harvest on my own plot throughout my entire “dacha career”, all I need to do is stop toiling away in the garden beds and trust nature. For as long as I can remember, I spent every summer at the dacha. First at my parents' house, and then my husband and I bought our own. From early spring to late autumn everything free time spent on planting, weeding, gartering, pruning, watering, harvesting and, finally, conservation and attempts to preserve the harvest until next year. And so in a circle...

What does the correct change of crops in the garden give?

When a person receives a plot of virgin, previously uncultivated land for use, then in the first three to four years of growing garden crops on it they give good harvest. In the next two to three years, subject to the application of fertilizers, mineral and organic, the harvest continues to remain very decent. However, several years after the start of cultivating vegetable and other crops, their quantity and quality begins to decline steadily.

No fertilizers or soil cultivation methods give the desired yield and lead only to short-term, unstable improvements. Practical observations showed that if crops were changed at least once every two to three years, the yield improved both quantitatively and qualitatively.

However, this technique was also not always effective. It turned out that important role both predecessor plants and neighbor plants play. If you organize the change of crops correctly, you can achieve the following positive results:

• increase crop yields by 20 - 25%
• reduce fertilizer costs
• minimize or completely eliminate diseases and pests
• reduce physical and material costs

In addition, the inclusion in the cultivation of the garden of such a technique as sowing plants - green manure, helps both clear the area of ​​weeds and serve as a means of fertilizing the land and enriching it with mineral and organic substances. If you do not adhere to the order of alternating crops on the site, this is fraught with the accumulation of pathogenic microorganisms and pests in the soil. Not following the order and planting plants after unfavorable predecessor crops depletes the soil and increases the cost of fertilizers.

How to properly organize crop rotation in the garden

To properly organize the rotation of grown crops, you need to adhere to several rules. One of them is not to plant like after like. It follows from it that you should not only not plant, for example, potatoes after potatoes, but also any plants from the nightshade family should not be planted after each other. To comply with this rule, you need to know that all plants are divided from the point of view of botanical taxonomy into families, each of which includes several species of cultivated plants.

Family Solanaceae

Plants of this family include crops that are very important for every gardener:

• potatoes
• tomatoes
• vegetable sweet and hot peppers
• eggplant
• tobacco
• physalis

This family also includes flowers such as petunia, decorative varieties Datura. If the site is supposed to grow several nightshade crops, then all of the above vegetables and flowers should not be planted one after another. This is due to the fact that these plants primarily take available nitrogen from the soil and greatly deplete it.

If tomatoes or eggplants grew this year, then next year Potatoes should not be planted in the same area. Now other plants from the Solanaceae family have appeared in cultivation, such as:

• Saraha
• sunberry
• naranjilla
• melon pear
• cocoon

Although for many they are still exotic, they are gradually occupying their niche in the areas.

Pumpkin family

This family includes both famous names, and plants unfamiliar to many:

• cucumbers
• pumpkin
• watermelons
• squash
• zucchini
• zucchini
• chayote
• Lagenaria
• luffa

These plants consume quite a lot of not only organic matter, but also phosphorus and potassium from the soil.

Brassica family

This family includes not only all types of cabbage, but also other garden and agricultural plants:

• mustard
• saffron milk cap

Some of the family members can be used as green manure crops.

Family Legumes

Plants of this family are distinguished by their ability to fix nitrogen from the atmosphere. Legumes include:

• lentils
• peas
• beans

Some plants can also be grown as green manure and plowed into the ground. In addition to the above families, it is worth remembering other crops, such as:

• Umbrellas - carrots
• Amaryllidaceae - onion, garlic
• Amaranthaceae - beets
• Cereals - corn
• Asteraceae - sunflower

These plants can be both good predecessors and excellent neighbors for many vegetable crops.

Vegetable compatibility, crop rotation and supporting measures

Before the start of the gardening season, you need to think through a plan - a crop planting scheme. In conditions of limited space, it is more convenient to divide the territory into 4 parts. If you swap crops every year, then plants of the same family will end up in the same bed three years later on the fourth. In addition, it is desirable that the crops enter the garden after the best predecessors.

Video about crop rotation and the best neighbors on your site:

The best predecessors for vegetable crops in the garden

For crops from the Solanaceae family, the following plants will be the best predecessors:

• peas
• cucumbers
• cabbage

Best neighbors will be:

• watermelon
• thyme
• tarragon

It is very good if you grow before any type of cabbage and other vegetables from the Brassica family:

• zucchini
• potato
• corn
• carrot

Good neighbors for them will be:

• dill
• celery
• chard
• spinach

It is best to plant before legumes:

• any cabbage
• beets
• cucumbers
• vegetable peppers

The best neighbors for plants from the legume family:

• coriander
• radish
• pumpkin
• sunflower
• salad

If you need to plant pumpkin crops, then this should be done after:

• any cabbage
• garlic
• eggplant
• tomatoes
• spinach

It’s good to plant next door:

• rhubarb
• basil
• marjoram
• beets
• coriander
• corn
• sunflower

In addition to vegetable crops in the garden, you can also grow berry crops and shrubs. It is best to plant strawberries and strawberries after:

• dill
• carrots
• peas

The berry will grow well next to:

• garlic
• cucumbers
• sorrel

For shrubs such as gooseberries and currants, the best predecessors will be:

• peas
• beet
• corn

The best neighbors for them:

• raspberries
• peas

If it is not possible to organize an annual change of crops, then it is allowed to grow vegetables on the same area for two seasons. In addition, the situation will be saved by sowing green manure before planting crops or after harvesting. For spring planting can be used:

• peas
• mustard

They do this immediately on the thawed ground. By the time the main crop is planted, spring green manure is plowed into the soil. In the fall, after the harvest is harvested, the following crops can be planted:

• mustard
• phacelia

At autumn planting Green manure either goes under the snow and the ground is dug up in the spring, or in the fall they are embedded in the soil. It is advisable to record all manipulations related to the rotation of crops in the garden in a special diary, this will help to comply with the rules for changing crops on the site.

Any novice summer resident is interested in the question of what to plant in the garden. After all, there are a lot of crops grown in our country. In addition, it is not enough to simply plant and grow all the vegetables and herbs in a row. It is necessary to take into account some nuances, for example, the correct “neighborhood” of plants. It is also important to know where exactly a particular crop should be planted on the site, because some plants require light places, while others require shade. If a gardener knows all the nuances of planting plants in country beds, then he will receive beautiful plot(And his landscape design) and a good harvest (more details on how to plant and grow any plant mentioned below can be found in the articles on the site).

Planning of plantings in a garden plot

Before planting a summer cottage, you need to think through and calculate everything. Initially, we decide what exactly we want to see in our garden.

Several questions will help a novice gardener decide, the answers to which will be the starting point for the future.

1. What vegetables and berries are preferable for the whole family?

2. Are you planning to can vegetables for the winter?

3. How much time do you plan to spend on the site?

4. Is its territory well lit by the sun?

5. Are they suitable? climatic conditions for growing berries and vegetables?

These factors are the most important. There are, of course, other nuances, for example, the quality of the soil, its drainage, but they can be solved. The land can be improved and drainage provided. And when the site is in constant shade, if the sun is hidden by the foliage of the trees, for example, or there is a cold climate in the area where the dacha is located, then there will be no luck in this option, and it will still not be possible to grow all the crops that you would like.

It is necessary to plan the site on a large sheet of paper, preferably millimeter paper, in this case you can clearly see what, where and how best to place it.

Necessary to plan landings

1. Draw a plan of the dacha area on paper in A3 format. A sketch will not help in this case, so it is better to make accurate measurements.

2. Mark on the site plan all existing buildings and those that are planned: a barn, a house, outbuildings, a gazebo, a swimming pool, flower beds, a place for compost, a recreation area (barbecue). If you plan to set up a vineyard, then it must be noted separately.

3. Make several copies of the resulting territory plan.

4. In free space, zones should be designated based on the degree of their illumination: well-lit areas and shadow.

5. Mark the source of water.

6. Select locations for greenhouses or greenhouses for vegetables. They will require a large area. Also, do not forget about the distance on the paths (minimum 30 cm).

Choosing a place for crops

To understand what to plant and where, you need to divide all vegetables into:

Demanding

TO a large number nutrients. These include:

• Tomatoes,
• cabbage,
• cucumbers,
• celery,
• pumpkin,
• zucchini,
• pepper (both sweet and bitter).

Moderately demanding

Such vegetables will have to be fed once a season, they are:

• Kohlrabi,
• eggplants,
• radish,
• salad,
• potato,
• carrots (please),
• beet ().

Undemanding

Such plants will need a minimum amount of nutrients. These include:

• Seasonings (dill, basil, sage and others),
• beans,
• peas.

Drawing up a planting plan

To compose it correctly, you should divide the garden into 4 zones:

1. For perennials (garden strawberries and strawberries). The berries should be replanted every few years.

2. For planting demanding crops.

3. For plants that need feeding once a season.

4. For undemanding crops.

After a season, demanding vegetables will need to be planted in the area where the seasonings were located (undemanding ones), medium-demanding vegetables will need to be placed in the area from the demanding ones, and the area where the average-demanding vegetables were sitting in the past season will be freed up for seasonings. It is worth noting that you need to alternate vegetables annually, as this helps to obtain maximum yield, and the soil has time to rest.

For example, cabbage (we start, of course, with) can be placed in the place of nightshades (tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, peppers), cucumbers, onions (and we generally exclude nightshades themselves when placed next to each other).

It is advisable to sow cucumbers in place of peppers or spinach, carrots - peas or tomatoes.

Which garden crops require beds and which do not?

Some vegetables require a separate area, since they can only grow well in their own beds. In addition, some types of vegetables cannot grow “in the neighborhood” at all.

But there are also plants that do not require separate place, they grow well together with the main crop. Such plants include:

• Beans,
• radish,
• beet,
• dill (it grows well throughout the entire area, you don’t need to plant it on purpose, but simply scatter the seeds),
• turnip.

What can you say about grapes?

For example, you can add radishes, beets or spinach to it.

About raspberries

It doesn't need beds. Raspberries will be comfortable along the fence, near fruit trees. You can also set up a separate raspberry garden: plant the bushes in several rows, the width of which should be about 0.6 m, and install supports with which the bushes will be tied up. That is, two rows of raspberries can be placed on 1.5 m of soil. You can sow sorrel next to the raspberry tree - this plant will prevent the bushes from growing too much. Apart from sorrel, not a single crop can “get along” with raspberries.

List of plants for planting and growing in the garden

Vegetables, herbs and berries

After planning the ridges, you can begin to select the crops that will be planted on the site. And the choice is huge:

• Tomatoes,
• carrot,
• eggplants,
• radish,
• zucchini,
• garlic (),
• different types cabbage (white and red, cauliflower, kohlrabi, broccoli,...),
• cucumbers,
• pumpkin,
• pepper (sweet and hot),
• turnip,
• beet,
• squash,
• beans,
• greenery,
• potato,
• peas,
• corn,
• berries (strawberries, wild strawberries, raspberries).

If a summer cottage large sizes, then all of the above crops can be grown on it. If there is not much space, then you will have to shorten the list and plant only those crops that are needed more than others. After all, to provide a family with, for example, potatoes, it will not be enough to make several beds. As a rule, large areas of the site are allocated for potatoes. To solve this problem, you can take a different route and plant early potatoes in a small area, in a place vacated, for example, by radishes.

Or you can use the Mitlider method (narrow ridges), which, for example, on our site (using 0.8 dacha acres) gives 5-7 bags of potatoes ("bad" - "good" in rainy and warm years). This method is applicable to: tomatoes, onions, beets, cabbage, carrots, garlic, corn,... (eggplants and peppers do not react to it).

Herbs

In the shaded areas of the dacha area you can plant greenery, which can be used until the end of autumn. Shade-loving herbs are:

• Basil,
• Melissa,
• dill,
• parsley,
• mint,
• decorative wormwood,
• tarragon.

We grow these plants both in beds and on the tree trunks of fruit plantations. In this case, two problems are solved at once - the presence of greenery and protection fruit trees from pests (codling moths). If spices placed in the area near currants, you will be able to scare away slugs from berry bushes. In addition to using these plants in fresh, you can make blanks on winter period. All you have to do is dry the greens.

Useful but rare plants

If the garden area allows, you can plant crops that are rare for many today:

• Rhubarb,
• arugula,
• chard,
• leaf mustard.

All these crops can be planted in shaded areas of the garden. To grow rhubarb, simply sow the seeds and water the plant generously. The rest of the crops on the list can grow in the sun, however, it is in the shade that they can retain their taste and taste for a long time. beneficial features.

Flowers

Many people believe that a garden is a place exclusively for planting vegetables. However, there are excellent exceptions. Flowers can also be planted in the beds, but all of them are useful, for example:

• Marigolds (at the edges of the rows),
• medicinal chamomile,
• yarrow,
• nasturtium,
• valerian,
• mint.

These plants can be planted in small flower beds or at the end of rows.

How to plant on a small summer cottage

Summer residents who have small area, can still plant many crops, but in limited quantities. In addition, for small dachas It is better to use mixed planting technology, that is, to grow several types of vegetables on one ridge. In this case, one culture will be considered the main one, and the others - satellites. Thanks to mixed planting, it will be possible to use the territory more rationally, and in this case the land will be less depleted. And different types of crops, with the right “neighborhood”, will protect each other from diseases and pests.

When to use mixed method When sowing, it is necessary to sow plants that grow and ripen quickly between the rows of the main plants (they are also called compactors). When the main vegetable grows a little and needs more space, the sealing plants will already be ripe, that is, the main vegetable will be able to continue to grow unhindered. Aromatic herbs and greens work best as sealants. But with this method of sowing, the gardener must know exactly which plants can “neighbor”.

What crops are combined with each other in plantings in the garden?

Before planting crops, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with information regarding crop compatibility. Below is a list of the main crops and plants that can be combined and which are best planted at a distance from each other.

cucumbers

It goes well with:

• Salad,
• radish,
• sunflower,
• corn,
• tomatoes,
• peas.

Poor compatibility with:

• Sage,
• fennel,
• dill,
• mint.

Tomatoes

Adjacent to:

• Garlic,
• carrots,
• spinach,
• onions,
• corn,
• cabbage,
• parsley,
• irises.

It is better not to plant next to tomatoes:

• Potatoes
• beets,
• fennel.

Cabbage

Next to it you can sow:

• Beetroot,
• potatoes,
• beans,
• mint,
• dill,
• marigold.

These vegetables do not go well with:

• Tomatoes,
• strawberries.

Eggplant

Can be planted near any vegetables

Eg, cauliflower, But

The best "neighbors" are:

• Legumes,
• aromatic herbs.

Potato

Prefers proximity to:

• Cabbage,
• radish,
• corn,
• beans,
• salad.

You should not plant next to potatoes:

• Tomatoes,
• pumpkin,
• cucumbers

Carrot

Pairs well with:

• Bow,
• tomatoes,
• sage
• garlic,
• beans,
• radish.

But it is not advisable to combine dill with carrots.

Onion

Compatible with:

• Cabbage,
• carrots,
• beets,
• salad,
• radish,
• strawberries.

Bad neighbors are:

• Beans,
• peas.

Pepper

Compatible with:

• Basilica,
• coriander,
• carrots,
• onions

It is advisable to exclude from:

• fennel,
• beans.

Radish

Reacts calmly to proximity to any vegetables

Salad

Will be a good "neighbor" for:

• Strawberries (strawberries),
• beets,
• peas,
• tomatoes,
• cabbage

Salad does not get along well with parsley, but it does well with chrysanthemums.

Beet

It has good compatibility with cabbage, but it doesn’t “go well” with tomatoes and beans.

Beans

Develops normally, adjacent to:

• Cabbage,
• tomatoes,
• pumpkin,
• carrots.

Doesn't go well with:

• leeks,
• garlic

Garlic

If possible, it grows well next to gladioli.

What to plant in the garden first and what second?

Early spring

Carrot

One of the first crops that you can sow in your garden. It is better to choose several varieties of carrots - early and intended for storage. It is recommended to sow more than normal in case germination is low. When the sprouts grow to 4-5 cm, they can be thinned out.

It is better to buy granulated seeds, since they are more reliable and easier to sow. Sowing is done in furrows spilled with water. Their depth should not exceed 2 cm. They should not be covered; simply sprinkle with mulch, soil, and sawdust. Watering should be done in a fine-drip manner, twice a day.

Greenery

Also at this time you can plant herbs: parsley, dill, etc. You shouldn’t take up a lot of space for greenery; one row will be enough, which can be demarcated with pegs.

Radish

It is one of the most popular early vegetables. It can be planted and grown in any region; it quickly produces a harvest.

Main season - late spring and summer

When earthworms have appeared in the ground, most of the crops can be planted. The “run” in terms of timing is large here: mid-April to mid-May.

Seeds can be planted:

• Parsley,
• peas,
• beets,
• zucchini,
• pumpkin,
• cucumbers

Seedlings need to be planted:

• White cabbage,
• Bell pepper,
• eggplants.

It is worth noting that for beginners, growing these particular plants will not cause difficulties, since they are all unpretentious. It is enough to water them on time and get rid of weeds.

What to plant in the garden after the frosts have gone away

• Tomatoes,
• bell pepper,
• eggplants.

Of these vegetables, tomatoes are considered the most unpretentious. Currently, tomato seeds are presented in wide range, there are many hybrids and varieties that can bear fruit without shelter, and you don’t have to plant them.

Eggplants are more difficult to care for. But nothing is impossible - a little theory and patience will help you cope with this task.

All these plants are planted in the garden as seedlings. You can grow seedlings yourself by sowing the seeds one and a half to two months before the intended planting, or you can buy them. When buying seedlings, we choose only plants with a dark green color and healthy foliage. Otherwise, it is unlikely that you will be able to get a good harvest.

Late gardeners

The last sowings are possible even in the last ten days of June. At this time, early ripening cabbage, potatoes (only sprouted ones), and turnips will still have time to ripen. As for greens, experienced vegetable growers specially sow them twice - in the spring (early) and at the top of the summer, so that the second harvest “arrives” by the beginning of autumn. We plant radishes regularly, until the end of August.

Other types of vegetable gardens

With poor drainage

• Vertical,
• stormwater,
• deep.

If it is not possible to do it, then you can think about what to plant in such a garden. During everything growing season no plant needs excess moisture. You can try planting crops in your garden that can withstand increased moisture. These include:

• Zucchini,
• cucumbers

But it is best to plant such an area with flowers, for example:

• Bathing suit (fries),
• primrose,
• forget-me-nots,
• swamp gladiolus.

Shaded

In this case, it is better to plant unpretentious crops that tolerate shade, for example:

• Spicy greens,
• salad,
• radish,
• spinach.

It is worth knowing that light-loving vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and potatoes will grow very poorly without the sun.

In addition to vegetables, you can plant strawberries in shaded areas. Although it is a berry, it is actively bred for country gardens. In addition to strawberries, a place in the shade can be given to currants - this bush feels great in such places.

Decorative

An area planted with plants gives free rein to show your imagination (not everything, after all, comes down to food!). Everyone creates their own garden. After all, it is not at all necessary that only vegetables and berries be present on it. You can also allocate a little space for beauty. Moreover, some flowers, for example, nasturtium or marigolds, are able to coexist with different cultures. It all depends on the area of ​​available territory and the imagination of the summer resident.

Plantings can be placed to create a symmetrical pattern, interesting picturesque groups or concentric circles.

In a place where shade constantly reigns, you can put a bench or arrange a gazebo, plant decorative ferns - and best place it will be impossible to find a place to rest.

Curtains of tall plants, which delight with abundant and bright flowering, can become a spectacular backdrop:

• Decorative sunflower,
• climbing green beans,
• Jerusalem artichoke,
• mallow,
• dahlias and others.




Planning a vegetable garden is quite difficult, but very exciting activity. If you approach this process creatively, think through everything carefully and calculate it, you will be able to plant everything you have planned, and country beds will become a source of your pride. And if you show a little imagination, the site will become very beautiful and will please the eye. Any beginner, if desired, can grow vegetables in the garden. If something doesn’t work out in the first season, then next year, when all errors are corrected, the result will not be long in coming.

Plant once and enjoy always!

Perennial vegetables are crops that you plant once and harvest year after year - a rarity in gardens North America.

With the exception of asparagus, rhubarb and artichokes, most gardeners are unaware of the tasty, low-maintenance, generous crops that can produce when most annuals are just starting to grow.

Short story perennial crops

According to Eric Toensmeier's Perennial Vegetables, most North American gardening and farming traditions come from Europe, where there are very few perennial crops except fruits and nuts. In a cold and variable climate, the Eurasian Agriculture centered around livestock farming, growing annual grains and leguminous crops. And the first European settlers to North America simply brought with them seeds and methods of cultivating crops, as well as draft animals to work in the fields.

However, in most areas of the temperate and tropical climate zones of the world, including most of North America, perennial roots, starch crops and fruits were widespread, actively cultivated, and subjected to selective selection.

These perennial crops were popular probably because they required less care to grow, and another reason was the shortage of large domestic draft animals since only hand tools were available to farmers.

But regardless of why these beautiful plants were forgotten, we must not continue to ignore these useful and productive crops. Perennial vegetables should be much more widely grown, especially compared to annual crops, because they are more nutritious, easier to care for and more environmentally beneficial, as well as being less dependent on water and other external factors.

Benefits of Perennial Vegetables

Perennial vegetables are unpretentious. Imagine vegetables that require no more care than flowers or shrubs - no annual digging of beds and sowing. They thrive and produce abundant and nutritious fruit no matter the season. Once planted in the right location and climate, perennial It is practically indestructible, even if you don’t take care of it. Established perennial crops are often much more resistant to disease, pests, drought and weeds.

In fact, some perennials grow so well on their own that maintenance requires only timely and frequent harvesting to prevent self-seeding. Ease of cultivation and abundant harvest are the main reasons to start growing them.

Perennial crops extend the harvest period.

Perennial vegetables often have a different growing season than annuals, which helps increase the amount of food you harvest from your own garden throughout the year. While you are planting seedlings of annual vegetables in your garden or waiting out the summer heat, many perennials have already grown and are ready to produce a harvest

Perennial vegetables can serve a variety of functions in the garden.

Many perennials are, among other things, beautiful ornamental plants that can add beauty to your landscape, among other things. Perennials can serve as hedges, serve as groundcovers, or protect slopes from erosion. Other perennial vegetables can act as fertilizer for themselves and other plants by adding nitrogen to the soil. Some can provide habitat for beneficial insects and pollinators, while others can climb along a trellis to provide shade for other crops.

Perennial vegetables help structure the soil

Perennial crops are amazing for the soil. Since they do not require annual digging, perennials help create favorable conditions for healthy and intact soil food chains, including providing habitat for a huge range of animals, fungi and other important soil microorganisms.

If perennials are well mulched, they help improve the soil structure and increase the content of organic matter, porosity and soil moisture retention capacity.

Cultivating perennial vegetables structures the soil the way nature intended, allowing plants to naturally accumulate more and more large quantity soil organic matter, through the slow and gradual decomposition of their leaves and roots. As they develop, they also help form topsoil and sequester atmospheric carbon.

Disadvantages of perennial vegetables:

Some perennial vegetables are slow to develop and may take several years before they begin to produce a good harvest (asparagus is the best example of this)

Like many annuals, some perennial greens become bitter after flowering, so they are only suitable for use early in the season.

Some perennials have a strong odor that some may not like.

Some perennials are so undemanding that they can quickly become weeds and take over your garden, or “escape” and take up residence in a neighbor’s garden (Daylilies - good example this)

You need to choose carefully permanent place for planting perennials in your garden. Properly separate plantings of perennials and annuals

Perennials may present unique problems in disease and pest control because you may not be able to use crop rotation to minimize problems. If a perennial plant once becomes ill with something, it is often almost impossible to get rid of the disease, and the plant will have to be removed.

Perennials grown as annuals.

Some perennial crops are grown as annuals because they are easier to care for. For example, potatoes are technically a perennial, but we grow them as annuals because pest and disease problems force us to rotate crops frequently. On the other hand, some plants that we grow as annuals can also be successfully cultivated as perennials, for example, cabbage.

Growing perennial vegetables.

One option for introducing perennial vegetables into your garden is to expand the area of ​​your existing vegetable garden. Just dig up an additional meter and a half and plant perennials along the border.

Or, if you already have an ornamental shrub hedge, consider incorporating perennial vegetables such as chard or sorrel into the mix. Many perennials have attractive leaves or flowers that can add beauty to a garden.

You can also reclaim currently unused spaces by choosing the right conditions for perennials. There are perennial vegetables, such as leeks, that will grow well in shady, damp or cool areas where vegetables would not normally be able to grow.

If you already grow perennial vegetables and want to elevate your garden or plot new level, pay attention to Permaculture.

Imitating natural ecosystems, this approach promotes better interactions between plants, soil, insects and microorganisms. In permaculture projects, edible vegetables, herbs, fruit bushes and vines grow like the undergrowth of fruit and walnut trees second tier. This technology is sometimes also called “tiering”.

The tiers need to be formed over a couple of years. In the first year, plant fruit trees as a guard outpost for your property. This year and the next few years, use sheet mulch to prepare the planting area under the trees for understory plants. Leaf humus is used to mulch seedlings within a radius of 0.5-1 m in the first year and, accordingly, increase the mulching radius as the tree grows. In the second year you can start planting perennial vegetables, berry bushes and grapes on the spaces mulched around the tree.

There are many perennial crops known and loved by gardeners around the world, including these ten well-known ones:

Blueberries, lingonberries and other berry bushes

Cabbage (usually grown as an annual)

Garlic (commonly grown as an annual)

Italian chicory radicchio (commonly grown as an annual)

Artichoke

Lovage

Watercress

But in fact, there are hundreds more types of perennial fruits and vegetables that can grow in temperate and warm climates. climatic zones, in which North America is located.

The book Perennial Vegetables by Eric Toensmeier is undoubtedly the Bible on this subject. This book describes more than one hundred perennial crops that you can grow at home. You will be delighted and inspired to try something new in your garden every spring! For each plant in this directory there are maps with the distribution area, color photographs, climatic and historical information, complete instructions about how to grow, care for and harvest crops, and even recipes and ideas for new dishes.

Perennial vegetables make a great addition to annuals in the garden. Here are ten delicious, easy-to-grow perennial vegetables you may not have heard of before.

We selected these from the variety of perennial vegetables described in the book Perennial Vegetables, looking at criteria such as taste, ease of cultivation and preparation, and wide climate range.

Some of these perennials occur naturally in many parts of North America, but because they are overharvested or grow in fragile landscapes, it is better and safer to grow them on a patch of land near your home. You can also plant special bred varieties (cultivars) of these wild edible plants, selected for characteristics such as taste and adaptability to garden conditions. No serious gardener or landowner thinking about growing their own food would be without perennials in their garden.

1. Egyptian or multi-tiered onion. (Allium cepa var. Viviparum)

Some types of onions such as winter green onions or Egyptian onions, continue to produce a harvest, even if part of it has already been harvested. Egyptian bow forms late summer small aerial bulbs at the top of the shoots. You can use these miniature bulbs on their own, or you can plant them in the fall to grow even more Egyptian onions. For zones 4-8.

2.Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.)

As gardeners say, daylilies will thrive if you don’t take care of them. So much so that they have become naturalized throughout the United States. While in North America they are grown primarily as ornamental plants, in Asia they are grown as vegetable crop, their numerous buds are collected daily and used as green beans. Flowers are added to salads, baked in batter or fried. For zones 2-10.

3. All-leaved pigweed (Chenopodium bonus-henricus)

All-leaf pigweed is a traditional European vegetable, famous for its tasty shoots, leaves and buds. This relative of spinach grows in sunny or partly shaded areas in moist, well-drained soil. Tender shoots are collected in spring. Frost-resistant up to zone 3.

4.American groundnut (Apios Americana).

Native to eastern North America, groundnut is a nitrogen-fixing plant, the six-foot vine bears high-protein tubers that taste like potatoes with a nutty flavor. The groundnut vine grows next to shrubs that serve as support. Grows in humid places, prefers sun or partial shade. Frost-resistant up to zone 3.

5. Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus).

Belongs to the same family as the sunflower. Jerusalem artichoke is grown for its underground tubers. They can be eaten raw or cooked like potatoes. Their charming yellow flowers will attract beneficial insects to your garden. Jerusalem artichoke is a vigorous plant that spreads by underground roots and can be difficult to eradicate. Some gardeners consider them aggressive. Zone 4-6.

6. Ostrich fern. (Matteuccia struthiopteris).

Many gardeners grow ferns for their highly ornamental value, not realizing that they can be grown for the delicious, early spring fern shoots that are a coveted delicacy in high-end restaurants across the country. They like it cool shady places and very hardy. For zones 2-8.

7. Ramson or wild onion (Allium tricoccum).

Ramson, a relative of onions, grows wild in the deciduous forests east of the Mississippi and appears every spring. It is a local delicacy that many people collect from the forest (in wildlife). Isn’t it easier to grow it in your own garden? Both leaves and bulbs are edible. Grows on the edge of shade in moist loams or under trees. Frost hardy up to zone 4.

8.Red beans (Phaseolus coccineus).

Red beans are commonly grown as ornaments in most gardens but are also edible and nutritious as green beans and dry beans. The flowers, young leaves and tubers are also edible if cooked. It is known that red bean plants can grow in one place for more than 20 years, practically taking over the garden. Frost resistance up to zone 4.

9.Crambe maritime.

Sometimes grown as ornamental plant, thanks to its blue-gray leaves and white flowers on a bush up to one meter. Shoots, young leaves and flowers are also edible. Frost-resistant up to zone 4.

10. Sorrel.

A perennial herb with leaves that have a tart lemon flavor. The leaves are used to make soups, stews, salads and sauces. Two types of sorrel are grown - common sorrel Rumex acetosa and French sorrel Rumex scutatus. These are relatives of rhubarb and the leaves contain small amounts of oxalic acid, which is not harmful as it is found in small quantities (unless you are allergic to oxalates). Sorrel leaves have the best taste in early spring, and with the onset of warm weather it becomes bitter. Sorrel is a delicacy that is difficult to find in stores because it withers quickly after being picked. Garden sorrel is frost-hardy up to zone 5, French sorrel - up to zone 6.