What needs to be done on the floor on the balcony. How to lay a wooden floor on a balcony: tips and tricks

Everything in the apartment and house should look neat, including the balcony, which is usually closed from prying eyes. One of the most important questions is how to make a floor on a balcony with your own hands so that it meets special operating conditions and at the same time is aesthetically attractive and comfortable. When choosing a material, they are guided by the type of structure and how the balcony will be used. Of course, the anecdotal option of storing a huge amount of useless things is not considered, but a balcony can be a place of relaxation, a workshop or a greenhouse. Each appointment has its own specifics.

Designs and their features

Experts know that even with other things being equal, the answer to the question “how to make a floor on a loggia with your own hands” will differ from similar recommendations for a balcony. This is primarily due to the fact that balconies have less support, so it is recommended to choose lighter ones for them, which slightly increase total weight designs, materials.

When deciding what to make the floor from on a balcony or loggia, it is important to know that great importance has a temperature regime.

• The most extreme conditions operation - on open models. Here you can use materials suitable for exterior finishing, since exposure to humidity, temperature changes and ultraviolet radiation quite consistent with the street ones.
• Closed (glazed) structures are more protected from external influences. They are also subject to temperature changes, and humidity can increase significantly, but the degree of exposure to external factors on such balconies is less, and the operating conditions are milder.
• There are practically no restrictions when choosing floor coverings for insulated heated balconies. The conditions on them are the same as in the rooms, so the solution to the question “what is better to put on the floor on the balcony” in this case has almost no additional conditions.

Wooden floors

How to cover the floor on the balcony so as not to overload the base plate? One of the simplest and most acceptable options is wooden covering. As preparation for installation, you can perform a light screed, but if the floor does not have pronounced surface defects, you can do without it.

The sequence of work is as follows:

The modern market offers more interesting and practical materials For finishing coating wooden floors. One of them is decking - tiles of wood origin (in their production, impregnations, resins, and composites can also be used to improve the performance parameters of the material). Decking is easy to install due to the presence of grooves and tenons on the end parts (the covering is assembled like a construction set) and is used for floor coverings of verandas and terraces, open and closed.

Tile

When looking for an answer to the question - what kind of floor to make on the balcony? open type, can become one of the most visually attractive and practical options. Ceramics can withstand high humidity and even direct contact with water, so your floors will not be damaged by rain or snow. Some features should be taken into account, otherwise the choice of tile type may be made incorrectly.

• It is best to purchase a special floor tiles with non-slip surface, it eliminates the possibility of unpleasant accidents and injuries.
• Despite the good performance qualities of the tile, there are pores in its structure. When water gets into them when it freezes, it can cause cracks and destruction of the coating. Modern porcelain stoneware does not have such a disadvantage.
• Well-known manufacturers, when marking tiles, indicate their strength class. In this regard, when choosing, you should evaluate the operating conditions of the coating. If you plan to go out onto the balcony in street shoes, shoes and boots with metal caps and heels, it is better to play it safe and purchase tiles of class 4-5 in strength. For balconies on which people will walk in soft house shoes, a strength class of 2-3 is sufficient. Experts recommend that class 1 tiles should not be considered as an acceptable option in any case due to their fragility.

Note: Tiles are also used to cover the floor on closed, insulated balconies, but in these cases, either heat-insulating material is usually installed.

The sequence of work when tiling a balcony floor is as follows:

1. If the balcony already has some flooring, it is dismantled, and the base surface is cleaned of dust and debris and, if necessary, dried.
2. The floor is lined with a thick film to ensure waterproofing of subsequent layers, but it is also possible to treat the surface with a primer.
3. Insulation (penoplex) is laid on top of the film. The thickness of the layer of such an insulator is often chosen in such a way as to raise the floor level to the required height (initially it is usually much lower than the floor in the apartment, so when going out to the balcony you have to go down, as if taking a step from an elevation, which is not always convenient).
4. Spreads on penoplex waterproofing film with access to the walls.
5. The prepared base for beacons is poured cement mortar, thus forming a screed.
6. Laying the tiles begins only after the screed material has completely dried and gained strength. Before laying the tiles, the screed is primed.
7. For installation you can use building mixture or special tile adhesive.
8. Laying begins from the corner and is carried out using special “crosses” in order to ensure the evenness of the rows and intersections of the seams.
9. It is better to remove excess glue immediately with a soft, clean cloth.
10. After drying adhesive composition The seams are treated with grout to give the surface a finished, beautiful look.

Performing a screed

Since some options when deciding on the question of “how to lay a floor on a balcony” involve preliminary planning, this stage of work should be considered more carefully.

Self-leveling floor

Self-leveling floors are used as an independent covering or as a basis for finishing coating.

Special mixtures are used to install self-leveling floors. One of the most important conditions how to make a balcony floor with your own hands high quality, is the execution wooden structure along the perimeter of the balcony as preparatory work (in some cases, as in the photo below, this is not necessary).
The fence is mounted from beams and is designed to keep the solution from spreading. The bars are fixed on outside balcony to be able to completely cover the floor area. The gaps at the joints are covered. The improvised formwork is dismantled after the solution has hardened.

Laminate

If the floor is installed on the balcony, the material is selected taking into account the conditions. On glazed and reliably protected from atmospheric influences Laminate flooring can be used on balconies and loggias. It looks beautiful, has fairly high strength, but is not resistant to humidity and temperature changes. It is best to lay the laminate on a screed; a flat base surface will simplify the work and ensure quality.

Linoleum is a budget option that allows you to lay the floor on the balcony with your own hands without unnecessary expenses and quickly, while ensuring its attractiveness and the ability to quickly restore order (linoleum can be swept, washed, and vacuumed). Linoleum can only be laid on closed balconies; it is not resistant to moisture and can begin to rot if it gets wet frequently. The flexibility of the material allows it to be laid on different surfaces, including on the base base plate, but the presence of a screed will ensure an even surface, and an insulated screed will provide additional comfort.

When deciding how to make a balcony floor with your own hands, take into account the experience of specialists.

• To avoid overloading the balcony, it is better not to use heavy materials. In any case, it's better to use project documentation and to know permissible load on the protruding part of the building.
• When installing sheet coverings, it is better to first mark the location of the joists.
• Choose self-leveling mixtures for screed only if you have experience working with such compounds. Otherwise, you may get worse results than expected.
• Placing plywood or wooden blocks under the joists will allow you to adjust the height of the structures in any necessary place.

Good afternoon, dear readers of the site. Today I will tell you how to make a balcony floor with your own hands using sandwich technology. I will accompany each step with a photo with detailed description, but if you still have questions, then I will be ready to answer them in the comments, so write, don’t be shy.

In cold countries such as Iceland, Norway, Denmark, Sweden, Canada and Finland, great attention is paid to warmth. It is not for nothing that the so-called Finnish houses and houses built according to Canadian technology sandwich type. But, if many people have heard about houses and walls made of sandwich panels, then much fewer people know about sandwich floors. But it is sandwich floors that are extremely popular in Canada and the countries of the Scandinavian Peninsula.

Sandwich floors on balconies are becoming popular due to their heat-saving properties, ease of installation and cost, which is much lower than any other flooring. That is why we decided to make and insulate the floor on our balcony using this technology.

In this article we will teach you how to make/insulate with your own hands. For convenience, the entire process will be shown step by step.

Required Tools

First, we need to prepare all the tools and purchase all the materials necessary for the work. To do this, we have prepared for you a list of everything you need.

1. Electric jigsaw.
2. Hammer.
3. Screwdriver.
4. Hammer.
5. Roulette.
6. Dowels.
7. Hammer drill.
8. Construction marker or graphite pencil.
9. Spare blades for jigsaws.
10. Spare drills for rotary hammer.
11. Spare drill bits for drills.
12. Wood screws of different lengths.
13. Acrylic or silicone sealant.
14. Caulk gun.
15. Portland-M500 cement or frost-resistant tile adhesive.
16. Polystyrene foam or mineral wool two centimeters thick (the density can be any, but we recommend taking a thicker one).
17. Insulation or thermal insulation mat with a reflective element.
18. Wooden slats measuring 2x4 cm.

We begin to lay the floor on the balcony

After all materials and tools are prepared, we proceed directly to the installation and laying of the floor.

Any repair and construction always begins with taking measurements. So we, armed with a tape measure, measure the working area on which we will have to work. In our case working area the balcony protrudes. Its length is 1 m and its width is 3 m.

ATTENTION! Companies that produce floor screeds in their operating instructions very often indicate a hardening time for the level of three to five hours. But very often it is far from reality. Based on experience, we recommend waiting at least 24 hours, that is, one day, after pouring the floor screed.

After the screed on the floor has hardened and become solid, we move on to creating the formwork. In our case, it will serve as a kind of barrier, since in the polyurethane foam, under the influence of various natural phenomena (water from rain, direct sunlight, wind), cracks and microcracks form over time through which air can blow in.

Installation of floor formwork bars

The formwork is assembled from wooden slats. To begin with, the plank is placed along the length of the balcony (let me remind you, ours is 3 meters) at a distance of 3-5 cm from the balcony frame. Next, using a tape measure, we can find out the size of the wooden slats that we will use to construct the width of the formwork.

Having received the size of the slats we need, we transfer all measurements to the “wooden” area. For this we use a construction marker or graphite pencil.

After the strip is cut, we put it in place for fastening. Now the impact drill comes into action. With its help, we drill through holes in the rail in increments of 30-40 cm.

After we made the holes in the plank, it should look something like this.

Now, by sliding wooden slats to the side, in the floor we should see the remaining traces from the through holes that we made using impact drill.

Now we insert the dowels into the holes that were made in the wooden slats. We put a wooden strip with dowels inserted into it in its place.

Now the hammer comes into action. With its help we hammer the dowels into the floor.

After the wooden joist is attached to the floor with plastic dowels, we use a hammer to drive the screws into them. Once all the screws are driven in and the plank is secured in place, it should look something like this.

After the width of the plank is secured, we move on to the plank, which is attached in length. We fasten it in the same way as the first plank.

The only difference is in the step of fastening the rail. If we fastened the width of the rail in increments of 30-40 centimeters, then in length we adhere to increments of 50-60 centimeters. We also attach the next plank in length, observing a step of 7-8 centimeters. The bar is attached to dowels. Next, with a distance of 6-7 cm, we attach the next lag using dowels.

Once the planks have been secured, you should end up with something like this.

ATTENTION! When drilling holes for dowels in the floor, the drills often break. Based on this, we strongly recommend keeping three or four spare drills in stock.

Insulating the floor on the balcony using polystyrene foam

After the logs are laid in length, next stage— . To do this, we cut the foam into equal strips of 7-8 cm in length. It is best to cut polystyrene foam using a regular construction knife. After the foam is cut, we lay it between the wooden joists as shown in the photo. When the foam strips are completely laid, the floor will look like this (photo below).

Our next step will be to mount the second layer. Using a tape measure, we measure the width of the log we need.

After we have measured the size of the slats we need, we transfer it to a wooden plane. Next, the jigsaw comes into play. With its help, we saw off the timber of the size we need. Now it's time for the screwdriver. We try on the strip and places for attaching screws. By the way, for fastening we use wood screws measuring 3.5 x 35 mm.

Now we attach the lag with self-tapping screws.

The log, secured with a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, looks like this.

The next lath, which we will fasten in length, is part of the formwork. It needs to be fixed slightly “overlapping”, that is, with a protrusion closer to the balcony frame. It is attached with self-tapping screws.

After we have secured the second layer of formwork, we move on to the stage of pouring the formwork. To do this, prepare a solution of frost-resistant tile adhesive or Portland-M500 cement. When the solution is ready, apply it with a spatula to the inside of the formwork. The solution is applied to the inside along the entire perimeter of the formwork.

When the entire internal part of the formwork is completely filled, we proceed to the stage of mounting the slats in width.

We fasten the logs using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver. We screw in the screws using the “board to board” method (as shown in the photo). In the same way we install all the other logs, which we lay in width. In this case, it is important to maintain a 15 cm step between the slats.

When the next layer of slats is installed, we move on to filling all the remaining cracks. We fill the cracks with a solution of frost-resistant tile adhesive. After all the cracks have been processed and sealed, we leave the solution to harden. This usually takes one day. After 24 hours, the solution should completely harden and harden. In this case, the formwork should look like in the photograph.

We check the formwork for strength. To do this, just try it with your fingers, if everything is dry and hard, then everything is in order, you can safely move on to the next step.

Insulation of a concrete floor on a balcony with a second layer of polystyrene foam

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. Cut the foam into pieces 15 cm wide.
2. We place the cut polystyrene foam in the space between the wooden slats.
3. We fill the cracks in the floor with small pieces of polystyrene foam to create a surface without gaps or cracks.

Prices for popular types of insulation

Insulation

Laying insulation

ATTENTION! We laid the insulation with the reflective surface facing up.

1. The edges of the insulation should extend onto the walls and onto the balcony frame by approximately 3-4 cm.
2. We tuck the excess and roll it back into the roll.
3. Using a construction knife, we cut off the unnecessary insulation.
4. We straighten and smooth the insulation, forming a smooth surface.

We put a log on top of the insulation and try it on in length. After the joist is laid out, we fasten it with screws. To do this we use a screwdriver.

1. We lay the lag, fixing it with self-tapping screws.
2. Between the lags, similarly to the steps that have already been done above, we lay a layer of foam plastic.
3. We lay chipboard on top of the foam layer, securing it with self-tapping screws to the formwork made of bars.

We cover the floor on the balcony with clapboard

In our example, the floor will not be sheathed, but with special slats, because This layer will not be the final one. But if you want to finish the floor at this step, it will also be very warm design, well, we continue further.

So the technology for installing wooden slats:

1. We fasten the slats tightly to each other using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver;
2. In order for the floor to be stable and “not play”, it is recommended to screw in self-tapping screws at intervals of 5-7 cm from each other.

Also in the photo you can see that our balcony frame is reinforced with a connector, which, in turn, gives rigidity to the balcony frame. The photo also shows that the amplifier protrudes slightly. Let me remind you that we need all the slats to fit closely to the walls and balcony frame. To do this, we need to use a jigsaw to cut a notch in a wooden strip.

1. Take a pencil or marker and transfer the size of the protrusion of the frame amplifier onto the wooden batten.
2. Using a jigsaw, cut out a recess of the size we need.
3. After we "worked" electric jigsaw, we get the following result.
4. Now we try on the bar. As you can see, it fit perfectly into its place.

ATTENTION! When laying the floor, do not forget to use a level. Everything should be smooth.

We proceed to laying the second reinforcing layer. To do this, using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, we fasten the planks end to end.

After the second reinforcing layer is laid, you should see something like this.

Laying the finishing coating (fibreboard) on the reinforcing layer

After we have completed the installation of the third reinforcing layer, we already have a picture of our future floor emerging.

1. Now we transfer all our measurements to the fiberboard sheet.
2. We cut the fiberboard along the contours using a construction knife.
3. Let's try on fiberboard.
4. The fiberboard should lie flush even in the corners.

1. After fitting, we remove the fiberboard and use a gun to “fill” the sealant into the cracks.
2. After sealing all the cracks with sealant, you should end up with something like this.

ATTENTION! The sealant must be applied in a thin layer. Also, it should not protrude, otherwise the fiberboard will not adhere tightly to the floor. If suddenly the sealant lays down in too thick a layer, it doesn’t matter, it can be easily removed using damp cloth or napkins.

Well, now that we have “blown out” all the cracks with sealant, we move on to the final stage - laying the fiberboard.

1. After the fiberboard has been laid, it must be properly pressed to the floor. This is done so that all excess silicone comes out.
2. Now we screw the fiberboard using a screwdriver and wood screws measuring 3.5 x 25 mm.
3. We screw the screws in a “herringbone” shape with a step of 40 cm in all directions.

Prices for fiberboards (fibreboard, MDF, HDF)

Fiberboards (fibreboard, MDF, HDF)

OK it's all over Now. All work on installing heated floors on the balcony multi-storey building completed. In this article, we looked at step-by-step instructions on how to install a floor on a balcony with your own hands using sandwich technology. Good luck with your renovation!

Turn them into full-fledged living rooms or arrange recreation areas in open spaces. This is not surprising: in small apartments Every square centimeter counts. High quality glazing and good finish necessary, but this will clearly not be enough. You need to start with the subfloor on the balcony: what to make it from, how to organize the work correctly, we will tell you today.

All about arranging the floor on the balcony

Options for arranging a balcony floor

Initially, you need to determine what kind of design you want to get as a result. She may be:

• Cold. The slab is covered with floor covering.
• . Between the base and finishing material a heat insulator is installed.
• Warm. A heating floor system is installed on the base, and finishing is placed on top.

In conditions of high-quality glazing, heating. You can realize your idea different ways. Practice shows that such options are most often chosen.

Options for arranging a warm base

• Alignment cement screed without or with an insulating layer. In the latter case, polystyrene foam, expanded clay, etc. are laid as an insulator.
• Leveling the base with a semi-dry screed with or without insulation.
• Installation wooden logs with or without installation of a heat insulator. Subsequent installation of a rough base from boards or wood boards, laying finishing such as linoleum, laminate, etc.
• Installation of extruded polystyrene foam as a thermal insulator without logs. Subsequent installation of OSB as a base for the finishing coating.
• Arrangement, linoleum, tiles.
• Installation of any type of underfloor heating: electric or water.

Preparatory work

To begin with, we completely free up the space, take out the furniture and all the interfering objects. We clean the freed base from debris and dust. We examine it carefully. All cracks and cracks found must be carefully repaired. The gaps between the wall and the slab are especially carefully filled. To do this, you can use a repair solution, but it’s easier to use either acrylic sealant.

All voids are filled efficiently, after which the mixture should completely harden. Then proceed to waterproofing. It is necessary in any arrangement. The moisture that the slab inevitably “pulls” through the capillaries will reach the screed. Here it will accumulate, gradually destroying the concrete. Therefore, a layer of insulation is laid. It may be different. The easiest way is to lay the film. This can be a special canvas or a regular one dense polyethylene.

They lay waterproofing with a slight overlap on the walls, forming a kind of “trough”. The strips are overlapped and secured with tape. If it is intended to insulate the structure, then it is carried out after insulation. Expanded clay is poured or another heat insulator is laid. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top. It is made of steel wire with a cross section of 3 mm. The cell sizes are 100x100 or 50x50. The reinforcing mesh will significantly increase the strength of the screed and extend its service life. Before installation, remove debris and dirt from the heat-insulating layer. The reinforcement is pressed tightly to the base and overlapped in 1-2 cells. Next, we begin to install the beacons. This is what builders call the landmarks along which the mortar will be laid. Metal guides are usually installed as beacons.

Each part is set exactly at the level, firmly securing it to the solution. The longer the beacon, the more attachment points it should have. Otherwise, during the pouring process the part will move, which will affect the quality of the work. You can get a flat surface only when all the landmarks are set strictly in the same plane.

Pouring the coating

Filling begins by mixing the working solution. Can be purchased ready mixture and just dilute it with water or mix the ingredients yourself. An important point: for the so-called semi-dry system, use less water. It dries much faster, but is prone to cracking. To avoid cracking, it must be additionally rubbed the next day after installation. Filling is carried out as follows:

1. Pour a portion of the mixture between the beacons.
2. We take the rule, place it on two adjacent guides, and carefully level the solution.
3. We lay and level the next portion of the composition.

So we gradually fill the entire area. To prevent the floor screed on the balcony from cracking, it must dry evenly. Therefore, in too dry or hot weather, the flooded structure is covered with damp burlap or film. When the mixture has hardened sufficiently, after a day or two, remove the beacons if necessary. The resulting irregularities are smoothed out. If the guides are made of high quality metal, they can be left in concrete.

It remains to wait until the composition is completely cured. This may take up to 3-4 weeks.

Much depends on the type of screed, air temperature, humidity, etc. There's no need to rush. Concrete that has not gained strength will not last long. Any covering is laid on a completely dry base: linoleum, laminate, tile, etc.

How to make floor sheathing on a balcony and sheathe it correctly

With all its advantages cement-sand mixture puts too much load on the base. And it can be difficult to lay it with your own hands without experience in such work. Therefore, many people choose wood construction. It's very simple. It consists of strong logs made of timber on which the flooring is placed. This could be a board or wood boards. If necessary, a decorative coating is laid on top. Many people believe that heating systems cannot be installed in this way. But that's not true. Infrared film is placed on any flat surface. A good option would be OSB boards or something similar. Water heating is also possible. The pipes are placed in special cells, and a wooden covering is laid on top. In any case, it is very important to treat the lumber before installation.

The wood must be coated with an antiseptic and dried well. Without such treatment, the tree will not last long. This step can be skipped if you buy already processed material. True, its price will be higher.

Step-by-step instructions for lathing the floor on a balcony with your own hands

1. Preparing the foundation. We clean the stove from dirt and carefully inspect it. All detected defects, especially gaps between the base and the wall, are carefully repaired. The easiest way is to foam them.
2. We put waterproofing. It will prevent moisture from entering the wooden parts and the insulation. Can be used coating materials. Most affordable option- film. We lay it in overlapping strips so that no gaps appear. We secure it with tape. We make small, about 20 cm, approaches to the walls. As a result, we get a sealed “trough”.
3. We are preparing the lags. These are support beams on top of which the flooring is laid. We take parts with a cross section of 50x70 or 50x100 mm. We cut them into pieces of the required length. Do not forget that the timber must be treated with an antiseptic.
4. We lay the logs. We place the first block on the edge in the center of the base parallel to the wall. We check the horizontal level and attach it to the slab. You can secure it using metal corners or on self-tapping screws anchor fastenings. Similarly, we install the remaining elements at a distance of 500 mm from one another.
It must be remembered that wooden systems, even after special treatment, are sensitive to high humidity. They should not be chosen for finishing a room without glazing. Wood will quickly deteriorate.

We've sorted it out important points balcony devices. Possible options there is a lot more to come. The owner can easily choose the one that is most suitable for himself. In any case, you can do the work yourself and save on the services of professionals. The technology is simple, but amateur performance is unacceptable. In order for you to be pleased with the result, you will need to be careful, patient and follow the instructions exactly.

By arranging your balcony yourself, you can save a lot and bring your design ideas to life. First you need to think about how to make the floor on the loggia. Each method of finishing it has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Materials, their pros and cons

Balcony is present in most layouts modern apartments. However, in old buildings, loggias are often unglazed and uninsulated. To turn a room into a living space or to make it separate room, the balcony needs to be repaired. This applies not only to changing its visual appearance and changing the interior, but also to laying a new floor.

The balcony can be used as extra room, make an office there, arrange small garden or a summer dining room. In this case, the loggia must be insulated before laying the floor. This can be done in several ways.

The following thermal insulation materials are used:

• Mineral wool. The best option it will be basalt.
• Expanded polystyrene. Panel dimensions 1000x2000 mm.
• Penoplex. Slab size 1200x600x30 mm.
• Penophone. You should purchase adhesive tape along with the material.
• Expanded clay. Used for placement between joists.
• "Dry screed." A set of backfill and MDF boards placed as the top layer.

Along with insulation, you need to additionally purchase polyurethane foam and vapor barrier film(membranes) to remove possible gaps between the blocks.

Before installing the flooring, it is necessary to level the base so that the material fits better and does not fail prematurely.

Plywood is often used for these purposes: this method is one of the simplest and cheapest. There are also special self-leveling compounds used as a base for self-leveling floors. Another option rough coating– screeds (sand-cement coating).

They are used to stiffen the surface and improve heat absorption of the floor. A leveling polymer composition is applied to the screed, then the floor is laid. In some cases, it is possible to make the layer not too even. Used to cover the floor different materials

. Let's talk about them in more detail.

Dye Most cheap option . Suitable for cosmetic repairs

, when the loggia is not planned to be used as a living space, since in this case the surface is not leveled and not insulated. The advantage of painting the floor is the variety of colors and shades and the simplicity of the procedure.

Ceramic tile The material is resistant to adverse weather conditions: it is not afraid of moisture, as well as snow, wind, and sudden temperature changes. Ceramics will look good on open and closed loggias

. There are several types of tiles. Experts recommend giving preference to materials with a rough surface. It does not slip, there are no defects left on it.

Before installing such a floor, the surface must be leveled using a cement composition. If necessary, it will allow you to raise the level of the base. The advantage of the material is the speed of its installation.

Terrace board floor coverings characterized by high resistance to external influences and durability. Due to its strength, it is suitable for installation on open loggias. Before installing the decking boards, the base is raised, and special fasteners supplied in the kit are used to adjust the materials.

A wide variety of colors and textures allows you to choose the material to suit any design.

Wooden floor

The most common method of finishing the floor on a loggia. The wood is durable, wear-resistant, and you can install it yourself. Laying is carried out on logs or joist sheathing. The latter is a box located around the perimeter of the loggia.

This floor, made in natural shades, will fit well into any interior. You can add wooden walls to it.

Linoleum

Suitable when leveling the rough base of the loggia is done using plywood. This is one of the most budget options finishing the floor on the loggia. The material is relatively inexpensive and has good performance characteristics. The surface is easy to wash and clean; there are almost no scratches or stains left on it.

Thanks to the variety of colors, you can choose linoleum that imitates parquet, decorated with patterns or geometric shapes.

Laminate

Wooden floor with improved characteristics. It is also laid on top of a plywood base. Many modern models equipped locking system, which simplifies the installation of laminate flooring and does not require the involvement of professional workers. Laying is carried out without attachment to the rough base, so highly specialized tools are not needed.

Main stages

The flooring is laid in compliance with special rules and requirements. By following them, you will be able to obtain a durable coating that will not deteriorate over time. The process is divided into several stages.

Not only the laying of materials is required, but also the preparation of the surface.

Surface leveling

Older houses often have uneven surfaces. Before the main work, it is necessary to level the floor. First you need to remove the remains old tiles, linoleum or paint, get rid of mold and dampness. Next, seal the seams and cracks through which precipitation can penetrate, and treat everything with antifungal drugs. The home stretch is sealing the balcony and preparing the base for final finishing.

A popular way to level the surface is to install joists. These are floor sheathing elements used to strengthen the final floor structure. Without them, the flooring will creak and vibrate when walking, and may bend under the weight of the furniture.

The functions of logs also include ventilation of the space under the boards to prevent them from rotting.

When installing elements, take into account the height of the threshold and the thickness of the insulation. The grille is located on concrete slab loggias, it is recommended to lay film waterproofing. The logs are placed across at equal intervals, and expanded clay is poured between the beams.

How to make a subfloor, watch the following video:

To hide the difference in floor level and cracks, thresholds are placed along the edges of the balcony.

To create a screed, a water-based sand-concrete mixture is prepared. Each manufacturer has its own proportions, and they must be carefully observed. A mortar that is too thin will crack, and a thick mortar will be difficult to install. Good cement The consistency is similar to mashed potatoes.

There are three types of screeds:

• Regular. Filled with cement mortar.
• Semi-dry. Sand mixed with cement. A minimum of water is used to prepare the mixture.
• Dry. Installation of gypsum fiber or fiber cement boards. Placed on an expanded clay surface.

Floor insulation

When it becomes necessary to insulate the floor covering, the surface is initially covered with polystyrene foam, which is placed on top of the screeds. Then OSB boards and flooring are placed on the material. More in a complicated way installation of heating elements is in favor. They are located on a concrete screed and include electrical elements or pipes.

Insulating the floor with mineral wool is one of the most common options. The material muffles sound, retains heat, is environmentally friendly and does not burn, and is quite inexpensive. Ease of installation makes it suitable for home use.

Features of installing mineral wool:

• The panels are laid as closely as possible to each other.
• When the surface is completely lined, it is covered with a vapor barrier membrane, polyethylene film. Secure the material using staples and a construction stapler.
• Sheets of plywood (16-20 mm) are placed on top of the joists; a gap of 8-10 mm is left on the wall side. The material is attached with self-tapping screws to the grille guides.
• The remaining cracks are sealed with putty, and the surface of the composition is carefully leveled.
• Gaps along the walls are filled polyurethane foam. When it hardens, it is necessary to cut off the excess to the level of the floor covering.

Mineral wool may have a thermally reflective layer of foil, which is placed outward. When the guides on the walls and the floor coincide, it can be used roll material, which will simultaneously line both surfaces.

Polystyrene foam is laid in approximately the same way.

Penofol is mounted directly on the floor surface, protected from liquids. When using logs, they are located above the material. The foil layer is located on the top side, the joints between the layers are sealed with construction tape.

When the loggia is sufficiently well insulated, the floor covering can be laid directly on penofol. Penoplex also does without lathing (thanks to high density). The material is attached to the base using disc-shaped dowels, guaranteeing the solidity of the surface. The layers can be installed in any weather conditions and temperatures.

Penoplex is resistant to moisture and chemical compounds, it does not burn.

Raising the floor level

Sometimes when repairing a loggia it is necessary to raise the floor. At home, this can be done at a distance of 10 to 30 cm, depending on the method chosen. You can increase the coverage width using the following methods:

• Wooden logs. They allow you to vary the height by 10, 15 or 20 cm. The design is durable, waterproof and soundproof.
• Metal structures. Allows you to raise the floor by 20-30 cm. For installation you will need welding tools. A more expensive option, characterized by increased strength. Lay on top of the structure tiles, laminate, they are used to insulate floors with carpet.
• Dry screed. The advantage of the method is its ease of use. It is enough to fill in the expanded clay and level the crumbs. Thermal insulation is not required for this method. The backfill height is up to 20 cm.
• Sand-cement screed. Suitable only for a loggia, since the material weighs a lot. Used to raise the floor by 8-10 cm.

To decide on the method, you need to determine the desired floor height and the available budget, and find out how much weight the balcony will support. When using each method, it is important to purchase materials in reserve, and during installation to avoid the occurrence of cracks. Before installation, it is important to completely clear the balcony of dirt, otherwise the rise will be uneven.

Making a wooden floor on a balcony with your own hands is not that difficult task. Anyone who knows how to handle tools at least a little can handle it. The material is easy to work with and the area is not too large. Here are some tips to help clarify any questions you may have.

Advantages and choice of material for a wooden floor

The balcony is an auxiliary area. It is not designed for large, rapidly changing loads. In addition, as the age of the house increases, load bearing capacity balcony slab falls.

Therefore, the choice of wood as a material for the floor on the balcony is completely justified. Light weight, low thermal conductivity and sufficient strength together are the most preferable qualities that a material should have for such a purpose.

Advantages of wood for a wooden floor on a balcony:

Wood normally tolerates contact with sun rays and rain moisture. Installation of a wooden floor will not require large quantity tools and labor. As the wood wears out, it can be easily replaced.

Preparatory work

First of all, you need to remove everything that is on it from the balcony. Remove old coating (if any). If necessary, existing defects in the concrete surface should be plastered, and the cracks should be filled with foam.

Inspect the metal fence, if necessary, weld it, paint it, clean it from rust. Purchase materials for covering - substrate, timber for logs, batten, fasteners (screws, corners, dowel-nails).

You will need some kind of antiseptic for the boards, as well as varnish or paint to protect the finished floor.

Waterproofing the floor on the balcony

The need for waterproofing is not reinsurance. Without proper protection, the floor may begin to gain moisture, become moldy, and metal parts of the floor and fences may begin to rust.

First of all, it is necessary to provide a slight slope for rainwater drainage. You can't let her stagnate on the balcony. One of the options for waterproofing coating is a concrete-bitumen screed.

It will allow you to achieve the desired slope and at the same time protect the balcony slab from moisture accumulation. Roofing felt is laid over the screed as a second layer of waterproofing, or some other insulating coating is used, the choice of which is quite wide, for example, a special waterproofing membrane.

The canvas should be wider than the balcony so that its edges extend onto the wall by 20-25 cm.

Video:

The first step is to strengthen the first row of joists. The distance between them should be about 45-50 cm; they are fastened across the balcony and secured to the floor using dowel nails. They should be 2-3 cm short of the walls.

The second step is laying the second, longitudinal layer of joists. This layer is the main one, made from a thicker block and carries a layer of floorboard.

The logs of the main layer are located along the balcony, the distance between them is 45-50 cm, from the walls - about 3-5 cm.

This layer of lags must be leveled in a horizontal plane, placing pieces of wood under them as necessary to adjust the level. Between the lags it is advisable to lay a layer of insulation - mineral wool or something similar, which is cut to size with a knife and placed in the spaces. There is one for this purpose.

Then they begin laying the floorboard. It is cut into pieces across the balcony in such a way that there is a gap of about 1 cm between the board and the wall. You need to cut off a tenon from the end board and attach it to the joists with self-tapping screws. The screws should be screwed into the groove at an angle so that they are not visible after attaching the next board.

The next board is inserted into the groove with a tenon, carefully adjusted through a wooden spacer until the gap is eliminated, and screwed in the same way as the previous one. The entire floorboard is laid in this way.

Sometimes thick plywood or chipboard is used instead of a floorboard, but this option seems short-lived due to its low resistance to moisture, and even atmospheric humidity will destroy such a coating quite quickly.

Video lesson:

Wood floor treatment

The laid floor must be protected from rain and atmospheric moisture. It is advisable to treat the material with an antiseptic in advance, before laying, this will make it easier to cover the entire board.

As protective coating you can use varnish or paint. It is applied with a brush or roller in 2 layers with intermediate drying in the quantities indicated on the packaging of the selected varnish (paint).

Even if another coating is planned, varnish finishing is still needed to protect the wood of the floor. We must not forget that the balcony is not the most favorable place for wooden parts, and strengthening the protection will not be superfluous here.

The wooden floor on the balcony creates comfort, a feeling of well-groomedness and order, and protects the base from moisture. Given the simplicity of the arrangement, the benefits of it are very great and are recommended to everyone.