Water supply in a wooden house: what is included in utilities, tips on network design. Water supply at home - how to properly supply water to a private house Water supply in a wooden house - pipe routing

Even in the most remote village houses, not to mention modern country cottages, you can significantly increase the level of comfort by simply installing water supply in a private house. We won’t assure you that this is such a simple matter, especially if the house has already been built a long time ago, and not just at the planning stage, but still, many of the plumbing installation works can be done independently, without the help of specialists. In this article, we will try to tell you how to install water supply in a private house, while we will only touch on work inside the house without taking into account the arrangement of the water supply source.

Do not neglect such an important point as drawing up a water supply diagram. Don’t come up with excuses for yourself: I just need to get it into the kitchen and the bathroom. Immediately, as soon as you decide to install water supply in a private house, draw a diagram of its installation throughout the house, taking into account all the elements: water consumers, collectors, boiler, filters and pump. Mark the location of all elements and the route of pipes throughout the house. It is advisable to mark the distances on the diagram. This will greatly facilitate the task of calculating the number of pipes for the water supply.

The pipe laying scheme can be done in two ways:

Serial connection of consumers.
Collector connection.

Serial connection Suitable only for a small country house with a small number of water consumers, where 1 - 2 people live. For full-fledged country houses and cottages with permanent residence, such a system is not suitable. It consists of the following: water flows through the main pipeline throughout the house; a tee with a outlet in its direction is installed near each water consumer. It turns out that if you use several consumers at the same time, the most remote one will have very low pressure, unable to satisfy the needs.

Collector connection consists in diverting individual pipes from a common collector to each consumer separately. This ensures almost the same pressure at every point in the house. Of course, there will still be some pressure losses associated with the distance from the pumping station, but these losses are much less than with a series connection.

The choice of a collector distribution system significantly increases the cost of plumbing in a private home. Mainly due to more pipes. But it's worth it. Next, we will consider the collector system.

Any water supply diagram for a private house consists of the following elements:

Source of water intake (well, well).
Pumping station. A pipe is laid in the ground from the water source and connected to the pump. Before connecting it to the pump, there must be a check valve so that the water does not return back.
A hydraulic accumulator into which water is pumped.
After the hydraulic accumulator on the outlet pipe, it makes sense to install a tee with a shut-off valve. One pipe will be used for household needs, and the other for technical needs (vegetable garden, car wash, etc.).
A pipe with water for household needs is connected to a water purification and water treatment system, since water from an underground source may contain harmful impurities.
After the filtering systems, a tee is installed to separate cold water and future hot water.
The cold water pipe is connected to the cold water manifold. Shut-off valves are installed here for each line that will go to its consumer.
The hot water pipe is connected to the water heater.
The hot water pipe from the water heater is connected to a hot water manifold, which sends pipes throughout the house.

There may be other additional elements in the plumbing system, but the typical diagram and connection sequence remain unchanged.

Installation of water supply in a private house

In the work associated with laying water pipes in a private house, the most dusty and difficult part is making holes in the walls or floor for the pipeline. Otherwise, cutting and connecting pipes, connecting to consumers, connecting to a collector, installing a pumping station and connecting filter systems, although it will take a lot of time, will not require much physical effort. So doing the plumbing of a private house with your own hands is a completely feasible task even for a beginner. The main thing is that the desire is unshakable, then everything can be done.

Selection of pipe material

The first step is to decide what pipe material we will use.

Copper pipes the best and most expensive. They are not susceptible to corrosion, are not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, are indifferent to microorganisms, do not notice increased pressure, do not react to changes in ambient temperatures, are not afraid of harmful impurities in water, and in addition, they instantly give off heat. In general, it’s a dream, not pipes. One drawback is the price.

Metal-plastic pipes They are aluminum pipes protected on both sides (inside and outside) by a layer of polyethylene. The smooth surface of polyethylene does not allow deposits to accumulate and prevents the development of rust. The outer layer protects against the influence of ultraviolet radiation and condensation. Significant disadvantages of such pipes are: fear of high temperatures above 95 ° C (they become deformed), sensitive to water freezing, pipes with fittings cannot be bent.

Steel pipes- the good old option. They are durable, strong, but at the same time afraid of rust. It is also important that for installation it is necessary to either cut a thread for a connection on each pipe element, or weld the pipes, which is a very labor-intensive process.

Polypropylene pipes Recently they have become increasingly popular when installing plumbing in a private home. This is due to the fact that they have excellent performance characteristics, do not oxidize, are durable (up to 50 years), relatively easy to install, and the connections do not require frequent checking, which allows you to hide the pipes under the plaster. Among the shortcomings, only one can be highlighted - the need for a special electric welding machine to connect pipes to each other.

Important! If your choice is polypropylene pipes, please note: for hot water supply, reinforced pipes (with fiberglass, aluminum or other material) are required.

Considering the number of pipes required to lay a collector system, the price for water supply in a private house largely depends on the material of these pipes. So, when choosing, focus on the price/quality ratio and do not forget about your budget.

Selecting the diameter of internal water pipes

The correct diameter is no less important than the pipe material. This is due to the fact that a pipe diameter that is too small can lead to turbulence of the flow, which means that the water in the pipes will move noisily, leaving a lot of lime deposits on the walls. The maximum speed of water movement in the pipeline is 2 m/s, based on this, the diameter of the pipes must be selected.

The diameter of the pipes also depends from pipeline length:

For a pipeline less than 30 m long, pipes with a diameter of 25 mm are suitable.
For a pipeline longer than 30 m, it is better to use pipes with a diameter of 32 mm.
For a short pipeline less than 10 m long, pipes with a diameter of 20 mm can be used.

The correct installation of water supply in a private house largely depends on the correctly selected diameter of the collector pipe, so that it ensures the full simultaneous use of several consumers at once. To determine it, you need to perform simple calculations: for example, one tap with water flows 5 - 6 l/min, we calculate how many and which consumers we can have turned on simultaneously throughout the house.

A pipe with a diameter of 25 mm (1 inch) passes through itself 30 l/min;
32 mm (1.25 inch) pipe flows 50 l/min;
pipe 38 mm (1.5 inches) - flows 75 l/min.

If the family is large, many people live in the house at the same time, and there are few water points, quite often there will be situations when they will use the kitchen sink, the bathroom, the toilet, and the washing machine at the same time. The consumption of these devices per minute must be summed up - the diameter of the collector pipe will depend on this.

If the family is small and there are many water consumers around the house, then the calculation is made differently. It is necessary to calculate water consumption at water collection points and reduce it by 25 - 40%. This will be the approximate cost of the family.

Let's look at connecting pipes to each other using polypropylene pipes as an example.

For cold water we use pipes with a diameter of 25 mm, wall thickness 2.8 mm.

For hot water we use reinforced pipes with a diameter of 25 mm, wall thickness 3.2 mm.

Technology for welding polypropylene pipes:

We cut the pipes into pieces of the required size using special scissors. Be sure to keep the blade strictly perpendicular.
We mark the welding depth on the pipes - in our case 16 mm.
We clean the welding site from dust and dirt using damp alcohol wipes.

We install nozzles of the required diameter on a special welding machine.
Turn on welding and set the temperature to 260 °C. When it warms up, the lights will go out.

We slide the parts of the pipes that we want to weld onto the welding attachments to a depth up to the drawn mark. At the same time, we do not rotate the pipes or make any twisting movements.
As soon as the pipes are placed on the nozzles and begin to move along the nozzles, we count down 7 seconds. After this, remove the attachments; a second person must hold the welding machine.
We connect the pipes to each other without making rotational movements - quickly and smoothly. Hold for a few seconds.

The result should be a smooth and beautiful perpendicular connection. If you are not happy with the result, cut off the section with the connection and repeat the procedure from the very beginning.

Before using newly welded pipes, you need to let them cool slightly.

Plumbing in a private house

After the pipes are connected to each other, you can begin laying pipes inside the house. We recommend starting with the water consumer.

First, we connect the pipe to the consumer using an adapter for a threaded connection, install a ball valve between the adapter and the faucet hose, which is necessary to shut off the water if repairs are suddenly needed, then we lay it towards the collector. There are a few simple rules that must be followed:

It is advisable that pipes do not pass through building structures (walls and partitions). But if this is not possible, when laying a pipe in the wall, it must be enclosed in a special glass.
So that the pipes can be easily repaired, it makes sense to place them at a distance of 20 - 25 mm from the wall.
When installing drain taps, make a slight slope towards the tap.
When going around the outer corner, the pipe is located at a distance of 15 mm, and the inner corner - 30 - 40 mm.
The pipes are secured to the walls with special clips. Be sure to secure it in each corner joint; on the straight section we place clips at a distance of 1.5 - 2 m.
To connect polypropylene pipes at an angle, including 90°, special HDPE fittings and tees with identical and transitional diameters are used.
The fewer turns and corners there are in the line, the less pressure is lost.

When connecting a pipe to a collector, shut-off valves must be installed to allow the consumer to be disconnected from the system, including for the purpose of repair.

Connecting the pumping station to the internal water supply

Connecting a private house to the water supply is carried out through a pumping station, which pumps water from a source: a well or a well.

The pumping station is best located in a house, basement, basement or heated technical room. This will protect it from freezing and make it possible to use the water supply even in severe frost.

A pipe runs from the water intake source to the pumping station, which ends in a brass fitting with an adapter for a diameter of 32 mm.

We connect a tee with a drain valve to this fitting in order to be able to turn off the water supply to repair the water supply. Then we connect a check valve so that the water does not return back. If you need to rotate the pipe to direct it towards the station, then use a 90° angle.

We connect the ball valve to turn off/on the water supply.
Next is a coarse mesh filter.
The finished pumping station must have a pressure switch and a damper tank. But if your pump is located in a water intake (well, well), and the rest of the equipment is in the house, then we connect a pressure switch on top of the pipe, and a damper tank or hydraulic accumulator on the bottom.
A sensor that protects the pump from dry running.
We connect a fine filter to the remaining connection.
Next comes the transition to a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm.

Before further work, check that the connection is working properly: start the pump to see whether it will pump or not. If not, it means that something is connected incorrectly somewhere or the accumulator is over-inflated.

What is a hydraulic accumulator and why is it needed?

The hydraulic accumulator is a sealed tank divided into two sections. One contains water, the other contains air under pressure. This unit is necessary in order to ensure stable pressure in the water supply system and turn the pump on and off when needed.

For example, the accumulator is completely filled with water, the pressure in the system is 3 bar. When someone opens a tap in the house and uses water, it leaves the accumulator, the pressure drops, the relay is activated and the pump starts. Water is pumped again, the pressure becomes 3 bar.

The tank volume varies: from 25 liters to 500 liters, selected depending on the needs of the family.

Installing a water supply system in a private house does not necessarily require the presence of a hydraulic accumulator. You can use a large storage tank and install it on the highest floor of the house. Water will flow to consumers under pressure created by its weight. But such a system is not enough for the washing machine to work.

Water from the source must be tested in a laboratory for impurities and soluble salts. Depending on the results, various filter systems and water treatment units, iron removers, etc. are selected.

Immediately after the hydraulic accumulator, water must enter the water treatment system. These devices must be located at a distance of 0.5 - 1 m from the hydraulic accumulator.

Installation of collectors and boiler

After the filter systems, the water should be separated into two streams: one to the cold water collector, the second to the water heater.

Before the cold water collector, be sure to install shut-off valves and a drain valve. On every pipe in the manifold too. The number of pipes depends on the number of water consumers in the house.

Laying a water supply system to a private home would be incomplete without providing hot water.

On the pipe that leads to the water heater, we install a safety valve, an expansion tank and a ball drain valve immediately below the boiler.

At the outlet of hot water and the water heater, we also install a ball valve. Then we connect the pipe to a hot water collector, from which we distribute pipes throughout the house.

At this point, the installation of water supply in a private house with your own hands can be considered complete. Don’t forget to first check that the system is working and that there are no leaks in all areas of the water supply. If the results are positive, you can safely use it.

Plumbing in a private house: video review

Providing a private home with water is one of the main components of a comfortable life outside the city. During construction, utility networks are laid at the stage of laying the foundation. However, it is also possible to improve a facility that was built a long time ago during its major renovation. The source can be a central backbone system, into which a connection is made with the permission of the organization involved in its maintenance. Also, water supply can be carried out from a well or a well located on the site. In any case, it is necessary to lay utility lines using modern materials and equipment.

What equipment is needed

To install water supply to a private house from an autonomous source, you need to stock up on the following equipment:

pumping station;
hydraulic accumulator (a special container into which a sufficient supply of water is pumped);
a water treatment system installed on a pipe through which water is supplied for domestic needs;
storage water heater.

Equipment for providing hot and cold water supply to a private home is compactly located in the basement or any utility room of the facility

Shut-off valves must be installed in front of all equipment used in the system. This will allow you to disconnect devices from the system for repair or replacement without disrupting the water supply to the entire house.

How to make plumbing in a private house with your own hands

Water supply can be organized using two types of pumps:

, not immersed in the source of water intake, ensure the rise of water from a depth of 8-9 meters, which is why they are used in wells;
submersible models are placed directly in a well or well, and their power allows you to raise water to a height of more than 200 meters.

Conducting from the well

A trench is dug from an existing or newly constructed well to the house, the bottom of which should be below the freezing mark of the soil in the given area. Next, a 32 mm pipe (copper, steel, polypropylene or metal-plastic) is laid at the bottom of the trench at a slight slope towards the source. The slope is necessary to prevent water from stagnating in the pipeline. The pipe is led into the basement through a hole in the foundation, which is insulated. Otherwise, in severe frosts, freezing may occur in this place.

The pipeline running from the well to the basement of a private house is laid in a trench dug taking into account the depth of soil freezing in the area

From the well

You can also supply water to your home from an autonomous source, which is usually a well or well. It is recommended to use water from open reservoirs only for technical purposes; it is not suitable for drinking or cooking.

Video: how to provide yourself with clean water

The laying of communications from the well, protected from freezing and the ingress of contaminated wastewater by a caisson (metal container), begins with assembling a bundle of cable, safety rope and water supply pipe covered with aluminum tape. Then a submersible pump is attached to them and lowered into the well. On the surface, the cord is wrapped in insulation, after which they begin to lay it at the bottom of a one and a half meter trench dug from the well to the house.

Important! The depth of the trench may be different, depending on the degree of soil freezing in the area.

Installation diagram of water supply for a private house from a well drilled to the aquifer by a licensed company using a powerful rotary drilling rig

They bring the pipe and cable into the house, then install:

a tank that will allow you to turn on the pump as needed;
a control unit designed to protect the system from voltage surges in the network, as well as from overheating.

Features of connecting to the central highway

If there is a central water supply in a populated area, it is not at all difficult to install a water supply system in a private house. Especially if the highway passes close to the object. After receiving permission to connect from the organization servicing the water supply system, within a couple of days the connection is made in accordance with the technical conditions and estimate documentation. Digging trenches to the required depth is carried out using special equipment, so excavation work takes only a few hours.

Important! The work may take longer if you have to dig by hand. In some cases, special equipment cannot be used, otherwise previously laid communications may be damaged.

Next, a pipeline is laid from steel or polypropylene pipes, and shut-off equipment is installed in the inspection well and in the house. After completing the external work, they begin wiring indoors according to the diagram.

How to ensure good water pressure

For normal operation of plumbing and household appliances, a certain water pressure must be maintained in the pipeline. To achieve a sufficient level of pressure in the pipeline, a water tank or accumulator is installed in the attic. A water intake is installed in the well, equipped with a filter mesh and a check valve. The water supply to the system is organized using a pump that can automatically turn on when the pressure drops and turn off when the value of this parameter is restored.

When calculating the volume of a water tank, it is assumed that for each person permanently residing in a private house, 50 liters are required per day. In addition, a supply of water is stored to extinguish a possible fire. When choosing a hydraulic accumulator, the volume is calculated taking into account the fact that each tap should have 20 liters of flow per day.

Internal wiring of water points

The layout of water supply pipes can be done in two ways:

serial connection of consumers to the system;
collector connection.

The first method is recommended for use in small houses with a small number of water consumers. The system can cope with the needs of one or two residents. With a larger number of residents, inconvenience may occur, since when several water points are turned on simultaneously, the pressure in the system drops. As a result, in the most remote place the water barely flows.

The collector layout of the water supply system in a private house or cottage allows for excellent water pressure at all water points

The second method of installing a water supply system is more difficult, but during operation there are no problems with pressure. Therefore, in cottages, pipe routing is carried out according to a manifold circuit.

If the consumer is significantly removed from the pumping station, there will, of course, be pressure losses in the pipeline. However, their quantitative values are an order of magnitude less than losses when connecting water consumption devices in series.

To install a water supply system yourself, you need to have free time and the skills to conduct construction work. If you feel a deficiency of the first or second, then it is better to contact specialists. Of course, you will have to pay for their work, but you will get fast and high-quality results. You should not skimp on installing the system, because this is a long-term investment that ensures the comfort of living in a private home.

In any private house outside the city, one of the priority works is installing a water supply system. This cannot be called a simple matter, especially if the building is not new for a long time, but many of the works on installing a water supply system can be done even with your own hands.

Scheme

Drawing up a diagram can be called a fairly important matter that should not be neglected. When the decision about the presence of a water supply system has been made, you need to draw a diagram according to which it will be laid in the house. It is important to take into account all elements, including filters, pumps, boilers, collectors, etc. The path along which the pipes will be laid, as well as the placement of all other elements, is plotted on the diagram along with the designation of distances. This will help you calculate the required number of pipes.

In the diagram, pipe laying can be marked in 2 ways:

Connecting in series. It is recommended for small houses, since this scheme requires a main pipeline, and a tee is provided from it to each water consumer. With a large number of consumers, the pressure will be insufficient.
Using a collector. Separate pipes go from it to consumers, so the pressure will be equal in all parts of the house. The cost of this option is more expensive, since the number of pipes will be greater.

Let's look at the most common scheme. The pipe from the source of water intake is led towards the pumping station, where there is a valve that prevents the return of water. The outlet pipe pumps water into the accumulator, and a tee is installed behind it. Pipes for technical needs and for home water supply depart from the accumulator.

The pipe carrying water for use in the home leads to a purification system to rid the water of harmful impurities. A tee intended for dividing the water is again installed behind the water purification system. The pipe that conducts cold water is directed to the collector, and the pipe that conducts future hot water is supplied to the heater. Shut-off valves are installed on the lines to water consumers from the cold water supply collector. From the water heater, the pipe passes into the hot water collector, and then the pipes are distributed throughout the building.

DIY installation

The most difficult and dusty work when laying water pipes is creating holes in the floor and walls. The remaining tasks (cutting and connecting pipes, installing a pumping station, connecting filters, connecting pipes to the collector and water consumers, and others), although they take a lot of time, do not require significant physical strength. And therefore, even a beginner can arrange everything on his own.

Types of pipes depending on material

Having planned the installation of a water supply system, the first task will be to select pipes, in particular the material from which they will be made.

Copper

Such pipes are the most expensive, but are considered the best. Copper pipes are not harmed by corrosion, microbes, ultraviolet radiation, increased pressure, temperature changes, or harmful additives in water.

Metal-plastic

These are aluminum pipes lined with plastic on both sides. Deposits do not accumulate on such pipes and rust does not develop. They are not affected by condensation or ultraviolet radiation from the outside. The disadvantages of such pipes are sensitivity to increased temperature (they deform at 95 degrees and above) and freezing.

Steel

Advantages of steel: durability and strength. Disadvantages: rust formation, labor-intensive work (the need for welding and threading when connecting).

Polypropylene

They are distinguished by good technical characteristics, durability (service life for 50 years), and ease of installation. For hot water supply, pipes made of polypropylene with reinforcement were created.

Such pipes do not oxidize and do not need frequent inspection, so they can be hidden under plaster. The difficulty in choosing such pipes lies only in the need to use a special welding machine to connect them.

Choosing the correct diameter is also important. If it is insufficient, then due to turbulence of the water flow, more lime will be deposited on the walls, and the movement of water will create more noise.

The diameter is selected taking into account that water should move at a speed of up to 2 m/s. It is also important to base the choice on the length of the pipeline. For a length of up to 10 m, pipes with a diameter of 20 mm will be sufficient; for a length of 10-30 meters, pipes with a diameter of 25 mm are suitable, and for a longer pipeline length, choose pipes with a diameter of 32 mm.

To correctly determine the diameter of the pipes for a house with a large number of residents, it is important to take into account the simultaneous water consumption in the house - how many appliances and taps will be turned on at once (how much water they will flow per minute). For a small family, but with a large number of water-consuming appliances, you need to calculate the total water consumption of all points, and then subtract 25-40%.

Welding of polypropylene pipes

The connection of pipes made of polypropylene, including reinforced ones, is made by welding:

The pipes are cut with special scissors, obtaining sections of a certain length.
Mark weld areas that need to be cleaned using a damp alcohol wipe.
Having installed the necessary attachments on the welding machine, turn on the device and set the temperature on it.
After heating the device (the lights go out), we slide the pipe sections onto the nozzles up to the marks, but without turning them.

When the pipes are already installed, wait a few seconds and remove the nozzles (let your assistant hold the device), after which we clearly and quickly connect the pipes and hold them together for a while. The result will be a smooth connection. When you don’t like the result, the connection section is cut off and the procedure is carried out all over again. The welded pipes are left to cool briefly and then used.

Installation of water supply in private houses

Prepared pipes are laid in the house, starting from water consumers.
The pipes are connected to the consuming point with an adapter so that a tap can be installed to shut off the water.
Pipes are laid to the collector. It is advisable not to pass pipes through walls or partitions, and if this has to be done, enclose them in glasses.

For easier repairs, place the pipes at a distance of 20-25 mm from the wall surfaces. When installing drain taps, create a slight slope in their direction.

The pipes are attached to the walls with special clips, installing them in straight sections every 1.5-2 meters, as well as in all corner joints. To combine pipes at angles, fittings and tees are used.

Try to make minimal angles or turns so that less pressure is lost.

We carry water from the well

Water enters the well from shallow layers, so it often contains many impurities. Such water without purification is used for domestic and economic needs, and in order to make it drinkable, it is necessary to carry out water treatment, having previously submitted the water for analysis. The main advantage of constructing a well is that its construction does not require permission from government organizations.

We carry water from the well

Since the water comes from deep layers, it is cleaner than well water and has a stable chemical composition. Most often, such water is free of microorganisms and harmful compounds. When choosing this option for a water source for a private home, keep in mind that drilling a well requires a design and its approval.

Centralized water supply

It is ideal that the water supply to a private building comes from a borehole or well, as this will give your water supply system autonomy. However, you can connect the building to the central water supply (even if it is a backup source).

A permit is required to connect to the water main. Engineers from the organization operating the central water supply system will evaluate your project, the power of your pump, and the volume of water consumption. To control water consumption, you will also need to install meters.

Laying water pipes

The outer part of the water supply can be laid openly or hidden in a trench. If the underground option is chosen, then it is important to install communications taking into account the depth of soil freezing. When installing a pipeline above the freezing level or above the ground, care should be taken to ensure thermal insulation.

From the source, water is pumped by a pumping station, which is usually located in the basement, on the 1st floor or in the basement. It is advisable to place the station in a heated room so that the water supply system functions in winter. A fitting is placed on the pipe from the source leading to the pumping station so that the water can be turned off when repairing the water supply system. A check valve is also connected.

If you need to turn the pipe, you need to use a corner. After this, with a quick connection we install a ball valve, a filter for coarse cleaning, a pressure switch, a hydraulic accumulator (if the pump is located in a well or in a well), a sensor against “dry” running, a filter for fine cleaning and an adapter. Finally, the serviceability is checked by starting the pump.

It is represented by a sealed 2-section tank with water in one compartment and air, which is under pressure, in the other compartment. Such a device is needed to stabilize the pressure in the system and turn the pump on/off. When you open a faucet in a building, water flows out of this device, which reduces the pressure. The result will be the relay activating and turning on the pump to increase the pressure.

The volume of the tank is selected taking into account the needs of the people living in the house. It can be 25-500 liters. Installing a hydraulic accumulator is not a prerequisite - you can use a storage tank on the top floor or attic, then the pressure for water flow will be created by the weight of this tank. However, such a system will not work if there is a washing machine in the house.

Water purification and preparation

The water in your source will have to be tested in a laboratory, identifying soluble salts and other impurities. This is necessary for selecting filter systems. After passing through the hydraulic accumulator, the water enters the water purification system, located 0.5-1 meters from it.

Installation of collector and boiler

After the purification system, the water is separated into 2 streams. One is for cold water and goes to the manifold, and the second is for hot water and goes to the heater. It is mandatory to install a drain valve on all collector pipes and in front of it, as well as shut-off valves. The number of pipes will be determined by the number of water consumers.

A drain valve, a safety valve, and an expansion tank must be installed on the pipe leading to the heater. You will also need a drain valve in the place where the hot water will come out. After this, the pipe is directed to the collector, which will contain hot water.

Maintenance and repair

The operation of the water supply system should always be monitored, and any leaks or other problems should be corrected without delay. If there is a small breakthrough at the site of damage, you can install a rubber gasket secured with a clamp.

For quick repairs, you can use cold welding, covering the breakout area after degreasing with acetone.

If there is a fistula in a new pipe, a bolt is screwed into the drilled hole (if the pipe is old, this method is not suitable, since it will lead to an increase in the fistula).

Do-it-yourself water supply in a private house can be done from a central water supply or from a well (well). The principles of its creation, the main components of the system in each of these cases are virtually the same.

Selecting a wiring diagram

There are two ways to supply water to points of consumption, and the choice of a water supply layout in a private house with your own hands depends on the parameters of the system, as well as on the intensity of water consumption (permanent or periodic residence, number of residents, etc.).

Serial connection

This connection is also called tee. The tap, shower and other points are connected in series. This method requires the use of fewer materials (pipes, fittings, etc.), and is therefore cheaper.

The disadvantage of a series connection when laying out a water supply system is the likelihood of a decrease in pressure pressure at the most remote points when several water intake points are used simultaneously.

Collector connection

Collector (or parallel) connection is the organization of a collector (or two collectors - hot and cold water supply), to which lines leading to each water intake point are connected. To implement such a scheme, a larger number of pipes will be required, but its operating principle is allows for stable pressure.

There are additional nuances when choosing the principle of water supply. Do-it-yourself installation of water supply in a private house can be done in two ways:

"Blind" lines ending in a dead end (stub). This scheme for wiring the water supply system in the house is more economical, however, when supplying hot water, it can create some inconvenience - when opening the tap, you must wait a certain time until the liquid reaches the plug, and only after that hot water appears in the tap.
Circulation closed lines more practical and convenient, however, to implement such a project you will need not only a larger number of pipes, but also a special circulation pump.

Experts recognize the most rational combination option, in which the “blind” cold water distribution is combined with a hot water supply circulation line.

Main components of the circuit

The water distribution diagram in a private house, or more precisely, the part of it that is responsible for supplying water to the house, consists of the following main components:

pumping unit for a well or borehole,
nipple (adapter),
preventing reverse,
pipeline,
filter equipment (one or more different filters depending on water quality),
shut-off valves,
five-piece (fitting) for connecting the main elements and instruments (pressure gauge, pipes).

Sequence of water supply scheme

In order to visualize how to install water in a private house with your own hands, you can consider the flow of communications from the source to the end point.

1. An individual water unit (well or borehole) is equipped with pumping equipment, the selection of which is carried out according to the following principles:

for deep artesian wells only submersible pumps can be used,
for narrow channels and casing pipes - only surface units, including pumping stations,
in other cases, the choice between submersible and external equipment is made depending on the technical characteristics of specific models and operating conditions.

2. The pipeline supplying water to the house is usually laid underground. The depth of the trench is usually selected taking into account the depth of soil freezing in a given region. As additional protection against freezing, communications are equipped with a thermal insulation layer.

Plumbing a house from

3. The point at which the pipeline enters the house deserves special attention.

Firstly, the hole for the pipe is made with a large margin - a gap of at least 150 mm on all sides. This allows you to avoid deformation and destruction of communications if over time the wall begins to sag or deform.
Secondly, a small section of pipe, located between underground and ground-protected communications and internal wiring in a warm room, is located in the open air. This is where the risk of pipeline freezing is highest, so good thermal insulation is required.

4. The hydraulic accumulator and control devices are installed, as a rule, in the basement, basement or on the first floor near the point of entry of the pipeline into the house. Technically, it would be more correct to place such equipment at the highest point, but from the point of view of practicality and ease of use, lower levels are more suitable. You should only take into account the need to raise water to the upper floors at.

The hydraulic accumulator is designed to stabilize pressure in communications and prevent frequent switching on (and, accordingly, rapid wear) of pumping equipment.

The control and monitoring unit includes a pressure gauge, pressure switch and, which prevents air entrapment and the formation of air locks in the system when the water level in the well or well decreases.

5. Filter systems are equipped, depending on the need, with devices for:

preliminary rough removal of large particles of impurities (more about),
fine cleaning,
water softening.

Afterwards, you install the water supply system in a private house with your own hands according to the chosen scheme. For a collector circuit it might look like this:

Immediately behind the accumulator there is a tee along with a shut-off valve. The tee divides the flow of water into two directions - into the house and for other needs (watering, car washing, etc.);
A deep cleaning filter is connected;
Next comes a tee, from which the water supply pipes in a private house are divided into a pipe for cold water, which immediately goes to the cold water collector, and into a pipe through which the water will go to a boiler or another for heating. After heating, the water is sent to the hot water manifold.

The photo shows a diagram of water distribution in a private house

Important: When installing water supply in a private house with your own hands using a collector circuit, it is necessary to install shut-off valves at each point of water consumption.

Pipe selection

Diameter of communications

When installing a water supply system into a private house with your own hands, the right one will ensure efficiency at the installation stage of the system, as well as avoid unpleasant noise when water moves through communications.

To calculate the parameters of lines supplying water to points of consumption, the starting point is total length of each line:

for a branch less than 10 meters long, pipes with a diameter of 16-20 mm can be used,
for branches of about 30 meters - with a diameter of 25 mm,
For the longest lines over 30 meters, pipes with a maximum diameter of 32 mm are required.

Important: Particular attention should be paid to choosing the diameter of the collector pipe. An insufficient value can cause problems in the system.

The distribution of water in a private house from the collector is calculated based on the fact that each tap has a throughput capacity of about 5 liters per minute. After this, roughly calculate how much water is taken simultaneously from all points at peak moments and select the diameter of the collector:

25 mm for a flow rate of 30 l/min,
32 mm for 50 l,
38 mm for 75 l.

Pipe material

Laying a water supply system in a private house allows you to use pipes made of various materials, each of which has its own advantages, disadvantages and operating features.

In order for the system to work flawlessly, it is important to know how to install plumbing in a private house with your own hands correctly. This concept can include both the basic principles regulated by building codes and rules, as well as some nuances and subtleties known to experienced craftsmen.

Ideally, the pipeline should not pass through building structures, however, in practice, creating such a circuit is often impossible or impractical. If it is necessary to conduct communications through the wall, the pipe must be placed in a protective cup.
Despite the fact that the owner of the house almost always wants to get maximum free space and to do this, “press” the pipeline against the wall, there must be a gap of at least 25 mm between the building structures and the communications running parallel to them for easy repair work. The inner corner requires a distance of 40 mm, and the outer corner 15 mm.
If there are drain valves on the pipelines or hydraulic accumulator, a slight slope is made in their direction.
The most convenient way to fix the pipeline to the walls is with special clips. You can choose single or double devices; in any case, the distance between them should be about 2 meters.

When deciding how to install water in a private house, remember that a well-executed internal water supply system has characteristic differences:

Minimum joints and adapters. This improves the reliability and efficiency of the system.
All connections are made in strict accordance with the installation technology of this particular type of pipe.
Availability of valves or shut-off valves in critical areas of the system and at connection points.
A minimum number of not very reliable flexible connection sections (hose connections), which are most vulnerable to pressure changes.