We insulate the wall in a panel house. How to insulate a wall from the inside: step by step instructions

Old Soviet panel houses are much inferior in terms of thermal insulation to modern monolithic buildings. New SNIPs dictate to developers to comply required thickness walls and insulate the facades immediately after the completion of the pouring work and laying out the walls. Panel five and nine-story buildings were calculated only for internal heating, without isolating the outer walls from the cold. Thousands of people live in corner apartments, and the issue of their thermal insulation becomes more relevant every year.

Options for insulating the walls of panel houses

Modern technologies present two options for insulating wall surfaces apartment building: inside and outside. Both options will solve the problem of low room temperature and rapid losses heat. In prefabricated houses, more cast-iron radiators with excellent heating qualities were installed, but due to the thinness of the walls and their direct contact with frosty air, the efficiency of radiators is significantly reduced.

Important! The task of thermal insulation is not to heat the room, but to keep it warm and exclude air cooling due to its contact with the cold surface of the walls, especially if corner apartment is end.

Both options are suitable for this, but their implementation is radically different, so you need to determine a simpler and more economical one that you can do yourself.

Which method is preferable?

Consider the pros and cons of both methods and choose the most suitable one. Advantages of wall insulation from the outside panel house:

work will be carried out on the facade, which means it will not interfere with residents directly living in apartments;
along with the insulation, an external renovation of the facade will also take place at the same time decorative plaster or hinged panels;
the whole house will be insulated, which means that the common areas will become less cold.

Insulation of the outer walls of a panel house - disadvantages:

the inability to insulate only your apartment, even if it is corner - at least two walls in each room will be adjacent to non-insulated neighboring apartments;
high cost of work - a specially hired team will be engaged in warming and finishing, which needs constant monitoring and payment;
lack of privacy in high-rise building- the work will take place outside, which means that the builders will need scaffolding structures or a hinged cradle, and this entails their constant presence right outside the windows of the apartment, where they can look freely;
the duration of the process - if the house is large, then work can go on for more than one month, and all this time there will be trucks, lifts, building materials and scaffolding.

Wall insulation in panel house inside - cons:

reduction of the living area of the rooms - hanging additional structures on the walls will increase the removal of each of them by at least 5 - 8 centimeters;
the inability to live in the room where the renovation is taking place - the tenants will have to move to other rooms, because the area under repair will be occupied by materials;
the likelihood of temporary relocation - the work may be associated with painting and the use of strong-smelling substances, so it will not be possible to stay in it during warming.

Benefits of internal insulation:

independent implementation of insulation inside the housing - high-altitude work and the construction of additional structures will not be required, only attentiveness, a competent approach and tools will be required;
low cost - compared to insulation from the outside, interior work will cost less if we consider only insulation, because the final decorative trim walls can be any and cost a lot;
short terms - if all the material is purchased and there is enough time, then each room inside can be insulated in 2 days and the same amount of time will be needed for finishing, so it will not take long to endure inconvenience and a temporary move.

Having studied all the nuances, it is clear that the advantages of internal heaters more than the outer ones and they are more substantial. Important: timing, cost and the ability to do everything yourself. Therefore, we will consider this option further.

The choice of insulation material

Modern world building materials provides a wide range of possibilities. Here are the main options for insulating a panel house from the inside:

polystyrene (foam);
polyurethane foam;
mineral wool.

Any of them will cope with the task, but they differ in the method of installation and cost, which can affect the choice of insulation. It all depends on what tools are available and the size of the budget.

Important! The least attractive option is to use polyurethane foam, because it will require deep formwork, which means that such insulation will “eat up” more room area. For its installation, a special sprayer is required, which may not be available.

Mineral wool a good option for insulating the walls of an apartment building, it is quite thin, easy to change shape and is not expensive. The main disadvantage is its composition, which includes fiberglass. When in contact with the skin, it leaves an unpleasant sensation and may cause irritation. From this saves clothes with long sleeves and a special mask on the face.

Penoplex is convenient in that it is pre-cut into convenient panels. It is lightweight and can be mounted alone. Each panel is placed groove in groove and assembled as a constructor. It can be chosen optimal thickness saving the area to be cut. The disadvantage over other materials is the higher cost, but it is offset by the ability to do the finishing without the use of drywall. The best way would be to carry out work using foam insulation.

Preparatory work

Regardless of the option chosen, before warming, it will be necessary to carry out preparatory work. An important note is that insulation is best done in the warm and dry season to avoid sudden temperature changes and condensation. What will need to be done:

free up room space extra items furniture and limit the entry of unauthorized people and pets into the living space;
get rid of the current wall decoration - remove old paint or wallpaper from partitions;
remove plaster from the walls - this will require special scrapers;
vacuum or wash the walls - this is required to get rid of dust;
make a primer and let dry;
align the plane - if necessary, if it is clear that the irregularities are too large;
dry the room completely.

What you need to work on the insulation of a room in an apartment building

Warming work will require due skill and attention, but it’s easy to cope with this if you clearly follow the technology and have at hand essential tool. Here is a list of what you might need:

construction stapler;
mounting foam;
sealant gun;
screwdriver;
puncher or powerful drill;
construction knife;
stairs or goats;
a hammer;
self-tapping screws for metal;
metal corners;
liquid level;
thread;
sickle;
putty knife;
liquid nails for outdoor work;
plastic fungi for fixing foam;
vapor barrier film.

The specified list may be wider depending on the installation method, but you can easily get by with what is listed. With everything you need, you can get to work. Remember that it is better to ventilate the room well, and carry out noisy work only at the permitted time of the day in order to avoid conflicts with neighbors.

Do-it-yourself installation

By following the steps in stages, you can achieve the perfect result. Begin:

Glue (liquid nails) is abundantly applied to the surface of the wall and the foam panel, and then they are tightly pressed against each other. We carry out such actions with each panel, placing the next one exactly in the groove with the previous end side. This also applies to the side segments and those on top. Penoplex is easily cut with a knife, so where the whole panel does not fit, it is carefully cut and inserted into the space. It is important to cut exactly to size in order to leave a minimum of gaps and lay them exactly in the end.
You can also fasten the panels with the help of wall anchors and plastic fungi, for this, holes are made in the walls and fasteners are driven into them right through the attached foam. This method is very noisy, so we recommend the first option.
All joints between panels, walls, floors and ceilings are coated with sealant. This is necessary to ensure maximum thermal insulation.
The tighter the foam is pressed against the wall surface, the better its insulating properties, so do not spare glue or anchors.
This installation option provides for the final finishing with plaster. After the sealant dries, the entire plane of the wall is covered with putty and leveled. If desired, further strengthen the layer - a special mesh (serpyanka) can be smeared into the plaster.
After the final leveling, the putty must be allowed to dry, and then primed, thereby preparing its surface for painting or wallpapering.

Important! If you plan to hang cabinets on the wall, then you need to choose a slightly different mounting option. Before the first paragraph in the previous instructions, you need to mount on the walls hinged structure from the metal profile, and according to the instructions, lay out the foam plastic between the guides. The following list is considered a continuation of the previous one, after the fourth paragraph:

A vapor barrier film must be stretched over the foam and guides to isolate the formation of moisture inside the wall. Its installation is carried out with the help of plastic fungi through the foam.
We fix drywall to vertical and horizontal rails using self-tapping screws.
Further, as in the previous instructions, he putty, leveling and priming the surface.

Installation is not at all difficult. The main thing is to stick to technology, then the work will be done quickly and efficiently. After finishing, you will immediately feel that the apartment has become much warmer and drier, even if it is an end one. This is because the insulation helped keep warm air from touching the surface of the cold walls. Therefore, if heating is not due to batteries, but warm floors, they can be turned on less often, thereby saving on utility costs.

Most of the constructed panel and brick houses did not provide for the insulation of facades. Concrete and brick have high density and low thermal insulation properties. The result is cold walls and uncomfortable temperatures. There are several ways to insulate from the inside, the main thing is to avoid the appearance of dampness.

Dew point - physics of the phenomenon

A cold wall is not the only drawback of panel or brick houses. Often dampness and accompanying fungus and mold appear on it. The best way struggle - wall insulation from the outside (this is also a requirement of SNiP), but this is not always possible. Therefore, you have to fight cold wall warming it from the inside. But there are pitfalls here.

Even if the cold wall was previously dry, then when it is insulated from the inside, dampness may appear. And the so-called dew point will be to blame.

The dew point is a conditional boundary at which the temperature of water vapor becomes equal to the temperature of condensate formation. It manifests itself, naturally, in the cold season. With proper design of the house (taking into account the characteristics of the region), it is approximately in the middle of the thickness of the facade of a material of uniform density.

If insulation is carried out from the outside, then the dew point shifts in the direction of decreasing density (that is, to the outer surface of the wall). When insulating from the inside, it moves inward, and condensate may appear on the surface of the main wall or inside the insulation.

And in order to assess the scale of possible damage, it is enough to say that as a result of the life of one person, about 4 liters of water evaporate per day (cooking, wet cleaning, personal hygiene, laundry, etc.).

Features of cold wall insulation from the inside

There are several ways to prevent condensation on a wall insulated from the inside:

Creation of a layer of heat-insulating material with a vapor permeability lower than that of the facade material.
Warming with materials with minimal water absorption.
Application of ventilated facade technology (taking into account internal placement).

Liquid thermal insulation

polyurethane foam

PPU insulation meets all requirements for vapor barrier, water absorption and the absence of seams. Therefore, even if there is a dew point inside the layer, it will remain “conditional”, since there is no condensation in vapor-tight materials. It turns out from the side of the room a completely sealed heat-insulating layer.

The environmental friendliness of PPU after curing meets the requirements for residential premises. Harmful fumes are present only when the components are mixed during the spraying process - after polymerization, the structure of the material remains stable.

Thermal insulation is applied between the crate and sewn up with moisture-resistant sheet materials(GKL, OSB or plywood). In fact, it is like a large prefabricated sandwich panel.

The disadvantage of this method is the use of special equipment.

liquid ceramics

This is a relatively young heat-insulating material, the action of which is based on the use of two principles - the creation of a thin layer with high resistance to heat transfer and the reflection of heat towards the radiation source.

Of course, a thin heat-insulating layer cannot provide good thermal insulation This is an optional but essential factor. Although it gives a fairly high effect - the wall becomes much "warmer" to the touch.

The main task of reducing heat loss is performed by microscopic ceramic spheres that reflect infrared radiation.

According to the manufacturers, the effect of a 1.5 mm layer can be compared with thermal insulation with 5 cm thick foam plastic or 6.5 cm mineral wool.

Application method is the same as for acrylic paint(basic is the same). After polymerization, a dense and durable film is formed on the surface, and latex additives improve the waterproofing properties.

Roll thermal insulation

Penofol

Penofol is a combination of polyethylene foam with aluminum foil. This is a whole series of materials (including single-sided, double-sided, laminated, with an adhesive layer). Moreover, it can be used both in combination with other heat-insulating materials, and independently. By the way, penofol is popular for warming the bath from the inside, and there is much more steam there than in an ordinary residential area.

To insulate a cold wall, foam foam is used with one layer of foil (one-sided) and up to 5 mm thick.

In the case, as with liquid ceramics, the effect is achieved due to the low thermal conductivity of foamed polyethylene, as well as its low vapor permeability and high reflective properties of the foil (up to 97%).

But unlike seamless coatings, complete sealing and prevention of cold bridges cannot be achieved. Consequently, condensation may form on the surface of the foil. Even the obligatory sealing of joints with adhesive aluminum foil will still leave gaps inside between adjacent sheets.

The method of combating the formation of condensate on the foil is traditional - a crate with a ventilated gap between the foam and the outer lining.

polyph

Another version of polyethylene foam, but already made in the form of a kind of wallpaper - there is a layer of paper on both sides. Polyfoam and is designed for gluing wallpaper on it.

Of course, its thermal insulation properties are not as high as those of penofol, but in order to make cold wall warm to the touch, they are quite enough.

In most cases, the insignificant thickness of the insulation does not lead to the dew point moving to the inner surface.

The disadvantage of this method is that only a dry wall is insulated.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene (or extruded polystyrene foam) is glued to a prepared and leveled wall. Both materials have very low water absorption (especially extruded polystyrene foam), so the formation of condensate in the insulation layer is excluded. The main danger is its appearance on the surface of the insulated wall.

Therefore, it is best to glue sheets on special hydrophobic adhesive mixtures applied over the entire surface of the sheets. And to prevent the penetration of water vapor from the side of the room, treat the seams with a sealant (you can also use foam plastic with a step or a tenon-groove connection).

Finishing can be done in two ways:

mesh reinforcement and plastering;
sheathing with panels on a supporting frame fixed to the floor, ceiling and adjoining walls (false plasterboard wall).

Warming with mineral wool

Mineral wool does not meet the requirements for vapor permeability and water absorption for insulation from the inside. But it can be used.

The main thing is to provide maximum protection from moist air from the side of the room and the weathering of water vapor from the insulation layer. That is, to make a ventilated facade, but in the reverse order: wall, gap, vapor-permeable membrane, mineral wool, vapor barrier film, decorative cladding indoors.

It is necessary to create a false wall at a distance of 2-3 cm from the main wall. And to weather the water vapor from below and above, make ventilation holes.

Panel houses have never been famous for their warmth due to thin walls- both external and ceilings, therefore, the owners of the apartments carry out the insulation of the panel house from the outside at the slightest opportunity. The thermal insulation of concrete panels helps not only to make the apartment warmer in winter, but also to keep it cool in summer, so insulation panel houses can be considered a universal means to ensure comfort in housing. You can carry out work on your own if your apartment is not higher than the second floor - otherwise you will have to turn to industrial climbers or high-altitude builders for help.

How to insulate panel walls from the outside

Thermal insulation of the outer surface of the walls of a panel house is a much more reliable measure than insulation from the inside, and there are reasons for this:

The dew point moves towards the insulation, not the wall, and the condensate does not linger in the concrete of the panel, which, in turn, does not cause mold. Also, in winter, condensate does not freeze and does not destroy the material of the walls from the inside;
Laying insulation on internal surfaces walls reduces usable area premises;
A layer of internal thermal insulation prevents the full heating of the walls from heating appliances, which leads to the appearance of microcracks and mold, especially in corner rooms, which are affected by wind and temperature loads;
The condensate that will appear as a result of this on the walls of the apartment is a direct path to the destruction of concrete and the appearance of fungal diseases of the building materials of the panel;
From the inside, it is impossible to insulate the ceilings adjacent to the walls, and in fact they serve as an excellent place where "cold bridges" appear;

Thus, it is necessary and strongly recommended to insulate the walls of a panel house only from the outside: internal insulation are extreme measures. Insulation of the walls from the outside consists of the following working steps:

Preparation of building materials for insulation

First, choose a heater. The required materials are listed below. Demand is determined by the characteristics and cost of heaters:

Extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene is the cheapest material (its price allows you to purchase sheets in any quantity), lightweight and retains heat well. The disadvantages that everyone knows about do not stop consumers from using foam: fire hazards and brittleness of the material. Both disadvantages are eliminated in one way - by protecting the insulation by plastering. Recommendations for use: wall insulation from the outside should be carried out with foam plastic with a density of ≥ 18 kg/m 3 ;
Mineral wool is a material more durable than XPS, absolutely environmentally friendly, non-combustible. Disadvantages: the price of this thermal insulation is higher, and when working with it, it is necessary to use PPE - gloves, goggles, a respirator, since contact with mineral wool microparticles on the skin or in the respiratory tract causes irritation. The recommended density of mineral wool is ≥ 85 kg/m 3 , the thickness of the roll (plate, mat) is ≥ 100 mm.

In addition, facade insulation will require the use of the following materials:

Construction adhesive for fixing insulation materials - dry or ready mix. For each type of insulation, it is recommended to use the appropriate adhesive, but there are also universal adhesives on sale;
Insulation for sealing joints between panels is polyurethane foam, less often liquid polyurethane foam;
Umbrella plastic dowels for fixing foam and mineral wool;
Priming fluids for pre-treatment walls;
Reinforcing fiberglass or metal fine mesh;
Perforated corner - metal galvanized or aluminum;
Decorative plaster for finishing;
Finishing paint.

The volume and quantity of building materials is calculated based on the insulated wall area plus a margin of 10-15%.

Preparatory work for the walls

First, all old coatings must be removed from the walls - whitewash, paint, plaster, ceramic tiles, and other materials;
The surface is cleaned of the remaining dirt and dust, if it is clean it is carried out with water - the surface is dried;
Get warm interpanel seams. If the seam is too thin or shallow, it is better to expand it so that it does not increase itself during operation under the already applied layer of insulation;
The seams are also cleaned of dirt and moistened, after which they are filled with construction mounting foam or filled with putty for concrete;
After the putty or foam has hardened, the protruding material is cut off or knocked down.

Fastening thermal insulation materials to walls

For more economical use of the building adhesive mixture, it is preferable to buy it not ready-made, but dry. Such glue is prepared simply - it is closed with water in the proportion indicated in the instructions, and stirred with a construction mixer;
Inflict adhesive mixture on foam or polyurethane foam with a notched trowel. It is assumed that you have already leveled the very uneven surface of the walls with plaster. If not, apply glue on the insulation board in lumps to evenly distribute the composition under the pressure that will appear when the sheets are glued to the wall;
Gluing plates or foam sheets should start from the corner of the wall and from the bottom up;
In practice, gluing plates and insulating the walls of a panel house from the outside is done by pressing the sheet against the wall, each sheet must be controlled using the building level;
The second sheet must be glued on the opposite side of the wall, and a cord must be pulled between the sheets, along which all other sheets of insulation will be aligned. To make it easier to observe the verticality and horizontality of the rows, perforated beacon corners can be installed on the wall. They are mounted on alabaster or plaster. This is how the first row of thermal insulation of a residential panel house is mounted;
The fastening scheme of the second and subsequent rows is the same, only the rows need to be shifted relative to each other in order to prevent the formation of "cold bridges" on long seams;
If you warm corner room outside, then it is also necessary to ensure the ligation of plates or sheets along the edge of the corner, as shown in the figure below;
Further, all the plates are additionally reinforced with umbrella dowels - five pieces per sheet or plate (one in the center, the rest at the edges). At the same time, holes are drilled in the insulation plate and in the wall to the depth of the dowel length, the hardware is inserted and expansion pins are hammered into it until the dowel head sinks into the insulation by 1-2 mm. In addition to the indicated fastening scheme, the dowels must be placed at the corners between the joints of the thermal insulation boards;
slopes window openings they are also insulated with polystyrene foam, only it is pre-cut to size with an ordinary knife or steel string.

Preparatory work before reinforcement

Before the panel house is finally insulated from the outside, the surface of the thermal insulation is reinforced with a fiberglass mesh. To do this, perform the following operations:

The insulated surface is leveled by plastering and rubbed with a grater. In this case, all dowel caps must be closed with a solution;
At the outer corners of the insulated surface and window slopes a perforated corner (aluminum or metal) is attached. It can be attached to the glue with which thermal insulation plates are glued, but in order not to wait a long time, it is better to take alabaster or gypsum;
The gaps between the sheets of thermal insulation are sealed with foam plastic scraps for mortar, or with mounting foam;
If all these works were carried out on top of a layer of plaster, the disturbed surfaces are plastered again. The result should be a smooth, seamless surface on which the fiberglass bonding plaster will be applied.

How to reinforce the surface of the insulation

The surface of the heat-insulating layer on the wall is reinforced as follows:

First, the mesh is attached to the slopes of the windows - mesh sections of the required size are cut, and 10-15 cm must be added to overlap the mesh on the insulated corner of the wall;
An adhesive solution 3-5 mm thick is applied to the slope, the mesh is pressed onto it, leveling and engrafting movements are made on the surface of the mesh with a spatula, as a result of which the mesh should be completely pressed into the glue. Make sure that the surface is even - without seams and sagging of the solution;
After the first layer of adhesive has dried, another layer is applied, which must also be carefully leveled with a spatula with a wide blade (300-800 mm);
After reinforcing the slopes, all walls with insulation are reinforced in the same way. The surface must be smooth to finishing layer plasters could be applied without problems.

Primer

Before painting the insulated and reinforced surface, it is treated with deep penetration primers:

Before use, the primer is shaken or mixed with a mixer in a separate container. Then it is poured into a pallet designed to work with a paint roller;
The roller is dipped into the pallet by 1/3 and rolled out on the inclined surface of the pallet, and then the wall is primed with it. Primer runs should be avoided.
The primer is applied in at least two layers.

Plastering

Plastering with decorative plaster is a quick and easy process:

The dry mixture is closed with water and stirred according to the attached instructions;
With the help of a narrow roller, the plaster is collected on a spatula with a wide blade, it is spread from the spatula in a thin layer, which should be even. The thickness of the plaster is determined by the size of the aggregate grains in the dry mix. Usually it is 3-5 mm with a flat wall surface;
After the initial hardening of the plaster (40-60 minutes), the layer is rubbed with a special board - small, to give the surface a patterned texture.

Painting the walls of a panel house

The last stage in the insulation of the walls of a panel house is painting the walls:

Acrylic paint is thoroughly mixed and tinted in a separate container in order to capture as much of the surface as possible with one portion of staining;
They work with paint in the same way as with a primer: the roller is dipped into the pallet, the finishing movements of the roller along the wall should be in one direction;
It is necessary to distribute the paint on the wall in a very thin layer so that there are no streaks and sags;
Where the roller does not reach, tint with a narrow paint brush;

The paint is applied in two or three layers, each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has dried.

During the operation of residential premises in apartments or houses, situations arise when spaces form between the wall and the floor. different sizes and depth. There is a need to repair them, but not only because they spoil appearance living quarters, but also because it is a direct source of drafts, the penetration of dampness into the rooms, which brings hordes of insects, mold and flexibility.

Therefore, it is extremely important that once such a problem is discovered, it should be fixed immediately. Carrying out the work will not take much effort and time, it involves following several stages:

Determining the size of the gap - length and depth;
Based on the scale of future work, the material with which the hole will be sealed is selected.

To seal very small gaps (about 1 cm), you can take mortars of putty, mounting gypsum or cement. Larger gaps (2-5 cm) must be filled with mounting foam. If the damage is much larger (from 5 cm or more), then you need to resort to more serious work and the use of other materials. Below will be serial technology elimination of gaps between the wall and the floor of any complexity.

Preparation for work

The sealing of such cracks falls into the category cosmetic repairs. Preparation depends on what decor elements your walls or floor are decorated with. If there is a plinth, it must be removed, the wallpaper removed, the paint layer cleaned and removed, and the whitewash washed off. In the latter case, you need to let the wall dry completely. Remove all dust and dirt that may interfere with the quality fixation of the embedding materials.

If termination takes place in a room where you do not plan to carry out complete renovation, then the wallpaper needs to be removed only partially, or try to carefully tear off the strip from the wall, so that after finishing the work, glue it back, returning the wall to its original appearance. All surfaces that may get dirt during the repair process must be protected with film, paper and securely fixed - this will avoid additional costs when putting things in order. Such measures will keep the floor and walls from polyurethane foam, plasters and paints. Paper or newspapers should not be used if there is a lot of water in the workplace - it is useless as a protective material in this case.

The goal is a big gap

To fill a hole ideal option there will be appropriately sized pieces of brick, styrofoam, styrofoam or plastic. If the parts are large, then they need to be broken or broken - small filling components guarantee that they will lie inside the hole as tightly as possible and carefully fill the cavity. Be careful that when filling the volume of the gap, you do not deform the existing hole and do not expand it.

These materials will help you save expensive mounting foam, which should be poured into the gap after the previous materials. Practice shows that with the use of bricks or other fillers, only one bottle of mounting foam is required to restore even very large damage.

You should not fill it to the eyeballs, because it tends to expand several times. Fill the remaining space by about a third, in very severe cases - by half. If the layer turns out to be very large, then apply it not at once, but in parts, allowing the previous layer to fully expand and harden. This will reduce the risk of overfilling and subsequent foam tatters falling out, and as a result, it will save foam volume.

Target is a medium to small gap

The ideal option for filling such holes would be soft, ductile materials with high density- tow or construction felt. To prevent such materials from becoming a refuge for pests, they must be thoroughly impregnated with insecticidal substances before filling, formalin most often plays their role.

The material rolls into small rolls, the diameter of which should be slightly over size slit, and applied to the slit. Further, with the help of a small rubber or wooden hammer, the roll is gently but surely hammered into the hollow space of the damage. It is advisable to fill the void with a single piece of material, without small parts, so that unnecessary cavities do not form between them.

If the gap is so small that you can’t physically stuff the tow into it, then a soft spatula and plastic gypsum mortar will come to the rescue. The technology is simple - apply a strip of gypsum to the tip of the spatula and apply to the damage, then gently press. This will allow the mortar to fill the entire cavity and immediately fill the wall surface to minimize preparation for finishing.

To save the surrounding area from dirt, you can use self-adhesive construction fabric (which will not work if you already have wallpaper) or the above methods. After the gap is completely clogged, the formalin dries out - you can decorate the seam.

Gap between baseboard and wall or floor

It usually forms when old walls warp or dry out. wooden skirting boards. Such an error is repaired very simply - with the help of acrylic sealant, modern stores provide a choice of any colors and shades. The cylinder is installed in a special sealant supply device and applied over the distance between the elements.

Rules for working with mounting foam

Two-thirds of cases still require the active use of mounting foam, even in small quantities. Therefore, it is important to figure out how to use it correctly. The recommendations are:

Before filling the cavity, its surface must be slightly moistened with ordinary water. To do this, it is advisable to use a mechanical spray gun or a bottle with holes in the lid. This is done to better fix the foam inside the damage.
When filling it is necessary to remember the ability of the foam to expand. In addition, wetting the surface will only enhance this effect. The foam must be applied carefully, carefully, little by little.
Ideal Conditions working with it - from five to twenty-five degrees of heat. The cylinder must be heated in water with the appropriate temperature.
Before use, the container with foam must be thoroughly shaken.
Work should be carried out only in goggles and gloves - the foam is very caustic, it adheres firmly to all things and objects. In case of accidental contact with clean surfaces, it is recommended to remove the foam only after complete drying, and wipe off the foam that has not yet hardened with a special solvent.
Hardened foam is removed with a sharp knife.

Finishing the wall after repairing the damage

Remove excess foam so that a small depression remains at the seam. It will be filled with a small layer of putty or gypsum with a spatula and brought to the same level with the wall. After the layer has dried mortar there will be no trace left of the crack. Top wall can be trimmed in every possible way- attach a skirting board, paint, glue wallpaper, tile, plastic, wood, and so on.

Conclusion

Such damage between the floor and walls is desirable to detect and repair before finishing works so as not to damage the already existing finishing surfaces during the work. Thus, the work will be completed faster and at a lower cost. If the sealing takes place in a clean room, then precautions should not be neglected, especially when working with mounting foam.

Video

From the video you will learn in more detail how and with what to close the cracks.

A few years after the construction of a panel house, the residents have a question: how to properly insulate it? Over time, the ability concrete slabs keep warm air and prevent the penetration of cold is significantly reduced. Heat loss begins not only through windows, but also through walls. AT winter period this situation begins not only to introduce some discomfort into the existence of the family, but also to be very annoying. There is only one way out of this situation - the insulation of the walls of the panel house.

Insulate the facade of a panel house

If you insulate the room from the outside, you can avoid heat loss through the wall, which will also serve as an obstacle to the destruction of the structure. In addition, the use of various finishing materials will give the house a new, more modern look. External insulation has other advantages:

tenants can continue to live in the house during construction work;
the temperature inside the building is increased by the use of thermal insulation material;
the dimensions of the room remain the same;
the design of the room becomes stronger, the service life increases;
insulation plays a role soundproofing material reducing the possibility of noise entering the room.

Insulation of a panel house from the outside is very effective, because it allows you to reduce heat loss and save on paying for the coolant. In some cases, the amount of savings reaches half the usual cost.

Necessary materials and tools

Keeping warm without the use of additional electrical appliances can be very effective. For a properly organized process, there are different kinds insulating materials. The most popular are:

mineral wool;
drywall;
Styrofoam;
plaster.

The materials used in the work must necessarily have high quality. Otherwise, getting a positive effect will be a big question. Some of the materials presented on the modern construction market are designed specifically for use in outdoor conditions.

How to insulate walls

There are two technologies by which the walls are insulated:

Wet facade.
Ventilated facade.

For insulation using the materials described above, use the first method. To organize a ventilated facade, a system for creating a metal frame is used, on which finishing material is subsequently attached.

The method by which the reinforcement is carried out with finishing materials in case the "wet" method of protecting facades is chosen is quite simple. The wall to be treated is necessarily treated with mastic, after which it is left to dry.

The surface, dried after processing the joints, is ready for further work. She will have to be covered with a primer, which can be done using both a roller and a special sprayer.

On a pre-prepared wall, heat-insulating material is to be fixed. This can be done with glue, fasteners (nails, dowels). A combination of mounting methods is possible.

Floor

High-quality insulation of a panel house begins with floor protection. This issue is especially relevant for citizens living on the first floors. In most cases, they have to resort to such events.

To reduce heat loss through the floor, the builders provided for the construction of a lag on the floor of an apartment located on the 1st floor. high-rise building. To cells that are organized by the intersection of elements wooden structure, lay insulating materials. It can be either foam plastic or mineral wool, or more exotic material options: expanded clay or sawdust. (You can read more about the types and brands of expanded clay).

Modern building and Decoration Materials presented in such a variety that each owner of the premises will find his own version of floor insulation. In addition, new materials are constantly appearing, but they have managed to prove themselves perfectly. This can be said about such types of heaters as polyurethane foam or penoizol. The use of even a thin 30 mm layer of these materials will significantly reduce heat loss.

You can learn how to insulate the floor in a room with your own hands quickly and efficiently by watching the video.

seams

A large amount of useful thermal energy is lost in a panel house through seams. This problem can also be easily solved by processing them. Monolithic solution of the distance between the plates allows you to fill the existing voids in the seams and contributes to the insulation of the entire structure as a whole.

The choice of mixtures that can be used to fill the seams in a panel house suggests how they self-cooking, and purchase in ready-made. One way or another, these compositions can be filled with foam balls to delay the flow of heat, and with particles of air to keep the heat trying to get into the street.

If the distance between the seams is large, then you can fill it with a soft insulating fiber. In the role of it is the well-known mineral wool. Its key features are as follows:

high compression ratio;
possibility of use in work at negative air temperatures;
ease of use, which consists in ease of installation and the absence of a list of tools, without which the work would be impossible.

fibers mineral wool volatile, they can also release formaldehyde components. These facts lead to a decrease in the frequency of use this material in insulation panel seams. More practical in such a situation is stone wool, which is safe for the health of residents and has fibers that do not break.

Styrofoam

Modern insulation, which is used very often. It is quite economical, easy to use and easy to install. Self-conduct installation work is possible even for an inexperienced person, and work on high floors requires the involvement of industrial climbers.

After the plates with outer side have been processed, insulation can be attached to them. If foam is used as this material, then you should remember the recommended thickness of the material. It should not be less than 50 mm. On the inside each sheet should be applied with glue, which is specially designed for work of this kind.

The laying of insulation should not be accompanied by the formation of cracks, because the work will not make sense: precious heat will escape through them. This can be avoided only with the competent organization of installation work and the use, in addition to glue, and other types of fasteners.

Mineral wool

Many manufacturers work with this type of insulation, like mineral wool. It is quite effective, but there are certain nuances when working with this material. So, cotton wool should not get wet, otherwise its thermal insulation properties will be lost. To avoid the accumulation of moisture in the layers of insulation, before installation, the material is protected by laying vapor barrier materials.

The membrane may not be used if such a method of insulation as a ventilated facade is chosen. In this case, moisture will be removed due to the air gap.

Drywall

The issue of room insulation must be taken seriously. In certain climatic conditions, wall insulation with mineral wool is considered quite justified. In this case, you can not do without drywall sheets.

In this way, it is possible to insulate not only facade surfaces, but also living quarters: balconies, loggias, walls inside technical rooms. At the same time, you should be more careful with the amount of mineral wool used. Its excess will not only not make the apartment warmer, but will also contribute to excessive cooling.

Preparatory work

Turning an apartment into a room that meets all the requirements for thermal insulation is possible. To do this, it is necessary to correctly organize measures for warming. A big role is played by preparatory stage. It needs:

process the joints between the plates;
carefully seal the gaps;
clean all cracks from construction debris;
seal all parts of the building that will be in contact with the insulation;
insulation of large gaps with mineral or stone wool.

If the cracks were additionally insulated, a layer of mastic must be placed on top.

How to insulate a panel house. Step-by-step instruction

The instructions for warming a panel house contain the following steps:

the choice of material and its quantity depending on climatic conditions and purposes;
purchase of materials and construction tools;
drying walls with a heat gun;
removal of possible finishes from the walls to be insulated;
application antiseptic composition on the surface, which will soon be closed;
applying a primer; (how to properly apply a primer, see the article Wall Primer - Surface Preparation)
sealing of seams, if necessary - additional insulation;
installation of insulation (using glue, drywall sheets and metal frame)
usage metal mesh for additional reinforcement;
insulation trim if necessary.

The beginning of work should fall on the bottom of the wall, because that is where the starting bar is installed. Glue is best applied with a spatula.

Experts with extensive experience in installation work advise:

to insulate the mill of a panel house in summer time of the year;
with external insulation, it will be useful to insulate the inner parts of the wall;
the best option would be to use seamless technologies, as this will save additional heat;
some modern technologies are very convenient, for example, the use of foamed polyurethane for insulation, which can even be applied by spraying;
do not forget about the use of vapor barrier;
the selected material should not be afraid of moisture.

Compliance with installation rules thermal insulation materials will not only make the room warmer and more comfortable, but also significantly extend the life of the walls, because an additional layer of coating protects them from destruction.