Installing a heated towel rail in the bathroom. Installing a heated towel rail in the bathroom: replacing and connecting a new one Installing a heated towel rail dimensions

A heated towel rail is an important element of the bathroom, which not only fulfills its intended purpose, but also reduces humidity, thereby significantly reducing the risk of mold and mildew. When choosing such a product, everyone focuses on its size, design, and thinks through the optimal location and height of the heated towel rail from the floor.

Exist different kinds heated towel rails, which differ in shape and material. The most durable is considered to be a “coil” heated towel rail made of stainless steel. U of this device no coating, attractive appearance achieved by polishing the surface. But it is worth paying attention to models that do not have seams and jumpers. Brass chrome-plated products have an attractive appearance, but their coating is not durable.

When choosing a heated towel rail, you should pay attention to the diameter of the pipes and the shape of the device. They can be made in the form of a ladder, a coil, or have a U-shape. This determines at what height to hang the heated towel rail.

In order for the device to perform its functions for a long time, it must be installed correctly.

Rules for installing a heated towel rail

Installation is carried out by inserting into the heating or hot water supply system. The latter method is more preferable, since the supply hot water carried out all year round. The installation involves the following steps:

  • dismantling the old product;
  • pipe welding;
  • installation of two taps on the device;
  • installation of a jumper for a heated towel rail;
  • installation ball valve on the device bypass.

Completing the last point will allow you to independently adjust the operation of the heated towel rail.

Before you begin installing the device, you should write an application to the housing office to shut off the water and agree on a date. There are several installation options in which different materials are used:

  • Metal-plastic pipesa budget option, operational installation. But the material is not resistant to pressure changes. Installation is carried out using the crimping method.
  • Copper pipes- an expensive option that requires appropriate skills and equipment, since the soldering method is used during installation.
  • Polypropylene pipes– the most popular option, which is distinguished by its reliability, durability and reasonable price. Installation is carried out by welding.

Video instructions - how to hang a heated towel rail

Installation according to SNiP

Exist officially established rules, according to which equipment is installed in the bathroom. The installation height of the heated towel rail is also regulated: the distance from it to the floor should be 120 cm. In addition, you must adhere to the following requirements:

  • It is recommended to install the heated towel rail above washing machine. To realize this, it is worth moving it or the sink. In the future, this will be justified by the comfortable operation of the device.
  • If the first requirement is met, it is worth considering that lifting the machine lid (when loading laundry from the front) should not be limited by the heated towel rail.
  • The edges of reflectors and rosettes must not overlap decorative elements tiles or borders, so it is better to place them above or below these boundaries.
  • When installing a heated towel rail, it is necessary to position it so that the distance from it to any plumbing equipment(baths, sinks, shower stalls) was at least 60 cm.

By adhering to these rules, you can ensure comfortable and safe use device.

Heated towel rail installation options

Sometimes, even with all the desire, it is impossible to follow all the recommendations of SNiP, and then the question arises: “How to hang a heated towel rail in a small bathroom or where compliance design solution imposes certain restrictions? In such cases, it is necessary to adhere to general recommendations:

  • The average mounting height of a heated towel rail is 95-170 cm. That is, it is necessary to calculate the distance from the floor so that an adult does not experience discomfort when operating the device.
  • When installing a heated towel rail in the shape of a staircase, it is worth considering the location of the top crossbar: a person of average height should easily reach it.
  • An M-shaped device must be fixed at a height of at least 90 cm from the floor, a U-shaped one - 110 cm.
  • Regardless of the design and dimensions of the product, you must adhere to the rule of locating the heated towel rail from other plumbing elements - no closer than 60 cm.

Having studied all the rules and armed necessary tools, it is quite possible to install a heated towel rail yourself. Those who are not confident in their abilities are advised to seek help from specialists.

The device for drying hygiene items and removing excess moisture in the bathroom is simple to design and install. In order to install it, you do not need fundamental knowledge in the field of engineering communications construction.

However, you should clearly know how to connect a heated towel rail. After all, the result of your own efforts or the work of hired plumbers should please you long years, do you agree?

In the article we presented, all options for installing a substation and possible complications during its connection are discussed in detail. Verified and systematized information will be a reliable help for home craftsmen who want to do the work themselves, or who want to control the actions of workers.

We have outlined in detail the specifics of connecting an important household appliance in old and new bathroom layouts. The problems of private home owners have not been left unattended. The information we offer has been tested in practice, supported by visual materials and video instructions.

Connection heated towel rail in a country house

The conditions of a private home are more favorable for installing a dryer. With an autonomous feeding system, there is more pure water. You can buy imported PS that is afraid of sediment accumulation.

Usually in such a house enough space is allocated for the bathtub. large room, which expands the boundaries of choice of unit in terms of size and shape. And connection work does not require permission from neighbors.

Regardless of where you are going to connect the heated towel rail - in heating system or for domestic hot water supply you cannot do without inserting the device into the pipes

The connection diagram itself is similar to that used in apartment building. It must be remembered that the device should be connected exclusively along the flow of water. For line lengths up to 50 cm, place the pipes horizontally; for larger lines, make a slope along the entire length.

Maintain the distance between the wall and the water pipe. If the pipeline diameter is 4-5 cm, choose a distance from 5 to 5.5 cm. When the diameter is less than 2.3 cm, this gap is reduced to 3.5 cm.

Considering the temperature deformations to which hot pipes are subject, it is impossible to fasten the PS to the supports by welding; the fastening must be free.

Typical mistakes of independent craftsmen

When, with a side or bottom connection, the lower outlet is located above the extreme point of the PS, a stagnation zone is formed between the bottom of the device and the connection point of the lower outlet.

This is a consequence of the fact that the cooled liquid, having dropped down, cannot get back into the riser due to the pressure on it from a column of hot water with a lower specific gravity. While the permissible height difference between the bottom outlet and the bottom heated towel rail is not exceeded, the device works, and then the circulation in it stops.

Circulation will also stop if there is a bend formed by the upper pipe. Only a tie-in to periodically bleed off the accumulated air can make such a scheme work. Sometimes a loop is made in the upper pipe, laying it behind the ceiling trim, and down tube walled up in the floor.

Air will accumulate at the top, and the cooled water in the unit will be blocked in the lower loop located in the floor. The movement of the coolant will stop completely.

With the beginning of the widespread construction of cities with serial high-rise buildings in the second half of the last century, few people at that time called the unusual M-shaped coils that appeared in their bathrooms as heated towel rails.

But housewives figured out their purpose immediately and began to use them accordingly. full program: for drying not only towels, but also any other linen, especially in winter time. It will be useful for any owner to know everything about correct installation and replacing a water heated towel rail in the bathroom with your own hands for your owner.

With acceptance SNiPa 2.04.01‑85, in which the term “towel rail” appeared, the device soon came into general use.

Unaesthetic and also useless with the ending heating season iron structures, painted with silver or nitro paint, nevertheless appealed to the taste of householders, and soon they began to obtain and install them by hook or by crook Nickel plated, graceful, elegant and practical eurounits.

This topic has not lost its relevance even now: in the housing stock there are still many old buildings, where apartment owners, starting repairs or replacement of plumbing equipment, turn their attention to such useful and necessary devices for equipping the bathroom, which quite capable home handyman for self-installation.

Device selection

All designs of these units are divided into three types:

  • Mermen.
  • Electrical.
  • Combined.

Replacing an old device with a new one, it is most logical to use the water type. Electrical apparatus are used where there is no centralized system heating, no hot water supply, or as a backup during shutdowns.

If there is a heating network or hot water supply in the house, it is more reasonable, instead of backup ones, to use combined structures that do not take up additional space, and their installation differs little from the installation of water appliances.

The external design of water devices is quite diverse:

  • 1st type: M‑, U‑, F‑shaped - traditional shapes.
  • 2nd type: “ladders”, “snakes” and other types original design modern devices.

It is also important to include them in the current system location of installation pipes:

  • Lateral - usually used for type 1 devices;
  • Bottom or top - more common among type 2 devices.

Choosing the right option determined by the availability of free space in the bathroom, the location of the piping system and the type of connection diagram. More details about which water heated towel rail is best to choose - in this.

What is required for installation?

Before starting any work it will be quite good sketch wiring diagram or, as a last resort, a small sketch by hand placement of the unit, choosing the most suitable option connecting the device to the pipeline network.

The most simple circuits correct connection DIY heated towel rail for universal ladder devices:

Tools

To replace or install a water heated towel rail, you will need a set of plumbing tools, the composition of which depends on the type of water pipes in the apartment. Considering that copper, polypropylene and other modern types pipelines are still rare, we will describe tooling for standard ¾’ steel pipes:

  • Keys: gas No. 2 or No. 3; adjustable - “crocodile”; adjustable nut.
  • Pipe cutter or a hacksaw for metal.
  • Threading dies ¾’ with a lever collar.
  • Drill electric with hammer drill, drill bits for concrete.
  • Angle grinder with a cutting disc for metal - “grinder”.
  • Fastening tool: hammer, screwdrivers, pliers.
  • Marking tool: tape measure, level, pencil.

Materials

In addition to a set of tools for work, you also need installation and consumables:

  • Turns, bends, couplings, bends and possibly other types of fittings.
  • Shut-off valves, preferably ball valves.
  • Plumbing linen tow or FUM mounting tape.
  • Installation and fastening parts: brackets, screws, dowels, anchor bolts and so on.

Having prepared everything you need, you can start working.

It is best to carry out all work on the heating pipeline in the summer, when the system is turned off, there is no pressure in it and the water can be drained from the riser without any problems. But in this case, after finishing the work, it will be impossible to test its quality: you will have to wait until the start of the heating season.

Types of connection

Firstly, you need to decide which system to include the device in:

  • Connecting a heated towel rail to the heating system. Traditional way and the only one where there are no hot water networks. Its disadvantage is that the heating system only works in the winter season. The advantage is that water circulation in the heating pipeline is forced and the heated towel rail will be hot throughout the heating season, performing the function of an additional battery.
  • Connecting a water heated towel rail to the hot water supply system. Such systems are also subject to shutdowns, but more short term. In addition, the disadvantage of this method is that the unit will heat up only during the consumption of hot water, cooling down at night, even when connected directly to the riser. In small apartment buildings or private houses, this problem is even more acute.

Installation diagram and connection of a heated towel rail to a hot water riser in the bathroom it looks like this:

As already noted, optimal the solution to many problems is the use of combined devices operating from the mains in the absence of hot water in the system.

After choosing a pipeline network for our device, the next question arises about how to include it in it:

  • Direct insertion into the riser. If the bathroom was already equipped with a heated towel rail, then it is connected to the heating pipe in this way. By replacing it with a new one, you can, without further ado, use the same type of connection. You can also embed the new device directly into the hot water riser.
  • Inclusion in the residential pipeline. The advantage of this method is that when carrying out work it is not necessary to shut off the entire riser, but it is more suitable for a heating system. The above problem with the hot water pipeline will be further aggravated: the device will heat up only when washing dishes, taking a shower or bath.

With bypass jumper

Heated towel rails in old houses, as already mentioned, were a direct part of the heating pipe. This connection creates problems in case of accident or repair and does not make it possible to turn off the device when it is not needed.

Therefore, the most reasonable thing when installing a new device would be to insert parallel to it in the riser of the bypass jumper and shut-off valves, to which it joins. This useful addition to the pipeline should be included in the connection diagram.

Dismantling the old device

You should start by disassembling the old heated towel rail. For this:

  1. Having agreed with the neighbors at the entrance and the management company, we shut off the heating riser and drain the water from it.
  2. If the old structure was welded to the riser pipes, cut it off with a grinder. In the case of a detachable connection, unscrew the fastening couplings.
  3. In rare cases when the installation dimensions of a new device coincide with the old ones, we can consider ourselves very lucky. Most often this is not the case and you have to cut the pipes even with a dismountable connection.
  4. The cutout in the riser must be higher in height than the distance between the inlet pipes of the new heated towel rail by the length of the pipes and couplings required for inserting the bypass.
  5. When cutting, we take into account not only the installation dimensions of the new device, but also the possibility of cutting threads on pipes.
  6. We remove the old device from the wall by cutting off its brackets with a grinder or a hacksaw.

Installation and connection: step-by-step instructions

Before installation It’s a good idea to lay out both the device itself and all the fittings on the floor. for him to once again clarify all the dimensions. To do this, you can even dry assemble all the connections. No one has canceled the saying about measuring seven times!

  1. We mark the installation dimensions of the new heated towel rail on the wall.
  2. Having chosen the location of the future unit on the wall, you must carefully examine it for the passage of internal communications, both pipeline and electrical. Special devices - metal detectors - can help with this.
  3. We drill holes, insert dowels and hang the device on the wall, securing it with screws or bolts.
  4. We cut threads on the cut ends of the pipeline.
  5. We prepare the bypass jumper by carefully marking and installing tees-outlets for the heated towel rail and a shut-off valve on it.
  6. During operation, all connections seal with plumber's tow or Teflon tape.
  7. We install it in the cutout of the riser using bends, straight couplings and locknuts, so that the tee branches are located exactly opposite the inputs of our device.
  8. Sleeves of different lengths are used for adjustment installation dimensions of pipeline sections and simplification of their connections. They have threaded threads at the ends: short on one side and long on the other.

    The locknut and coupling are screwed onto the long one. A tee, angle or valve is screwed onto the pipe from one side. A bend is screwed into them with a short thread, which is then connected with a long threaded end to the other side of the pipe with a coupling and secured with a lock nut.

  9. We screw shut-off ball valves to the outlets, and connect the inputs of our unit to them.
  10. We open the ball valves to the heated towel rail and close the bypass valve.
  11. Open the common riser valve. If there is water pressure in the system, carefully check the connections made for leaks.

All! Our new heated towel rail is ready for use. In this video you can watch the process of dismantling and installing a new heated towel rail in the bathroom with your own hands:

Works on pipeline system apartment building should be carried out in advance by agreeing with the management company, only if you have sufficient experience or under the guidance of a qualified craftsman.

Modern heated towel rails can be quite complex in design, such as, for example, double-circuit. Before installing them yourself, you should study everything specifications and installation rules.

You also need to remember that some units must be selected for galvanic compatibility with metal pipelines the materials from which they are made.

Installing a heated towel rail in the bathroom yourself will help increase comfort and make hygiene procedures even more enjoyable. You can perform all operations yourself if you follow safety rules and follow the advice of specialists. And it is equally important to choose the product wisely.

First of all, heated towel rails should be classified in terms of the type of energy used.

  • Connect to the heating system or hot water supply line water models.
  • Do not depend on the hot water supply mode and operate at any time electrical products.
  • Combined modifications have the advantages of both water and electric, thus being universal. They will continue to work during periods of hot water outage.

Structurally, there are two most common types of products:

  • the familiar coil
  • models resembling a staircase with horizontal steps.

Choosing a method for connecting heated towel rails

Installation of a water heated towel rail or its analogue with a combined operating principle can be carried out by connecting to a hot water supply or to a heating system. Experts recommend giving preference to the first method.

  • Hot water supply is supplied year-round, with the exception of periods of repair and pressure testing. The heating system coolant can only be used during the cold season.
  • Do-it-yourself installation of a heated towel rail with a connection to the heating system must necessarily involve the installation of a bypass bypass. Otherwise, repair or replacement of the product in winter becomes impossible - turning off the heating riser when sub-zero temperature may cause the system to freeze.

Important: Installing a bypass is recommended in any case. The ability to disconnect the device from the system (DHW or heating) without disrupting the circulation allows, if necessary, to carry out any work without coordination with utility services.

Equipment and materials

When thinking about how to install a heated towel rail, you should take into account that Work will require temporary shutdown of hot water supply. To do this, you will need to contact the utility service with an application and pay the cost of the service. The price directly depends on the duration of the shutdown period. Therefore, it is important not only to agree on the shutdown time, but also to prepare everything necessary for installation in advance to avoid unnecessary delays.

Dismantling of the old structure can be done using spanner wrenches of the appropriate diameter, but if there is no threaded connections or in the case when they have become “stuck” after many years of use, it may be necessary to cut out the old heated towel rail from the system (using a grinder, a hacksaw, etc.).

Experts recommend when replacing a heated towel rail replace all old supply pipes with polypropylene ones. They are durable and not subject to corrosion, and at the same time they cost much less than copper ones, which have similar performance qualities.


Thus, in addition to the product itself and brackets for mounting it (they are usually included in the kit, but this must be checked when purchasing), you will need:

  • soldering iron for their installation,
  • special scissors or cutting knife,
  • ball valves for turning off the water supply to the heated towel rail (2 or 3 pieces),
  • fitting,
  • sanitary sealing paste, sanitary flax.

Read also: We select from the water main.

Connection technology

After the water supply is turned off, work on installing the heated towel rail is carried out in stages.


Important: Installation of the heated towel rail and connection to communications is carried out with sealing of the joints.

The installation of a heated towel rail in the bathroom can be considered high quality if, when connecting the water supply, all connections remain dry.

If you choose a combined model, then installing a heated towel rail in the bathroom yourself also includes connecting to the electrical network. The work is carried out according to the same rules as the installation of electrical models.

I would like to note why it may be interesting self-replacement heated towel rail in the bathroom - the price for work from various companies will be approximately 500 rubles for dismantling and from 1200/4800 rubles for installation of a heated towel rail without a bypass and with it, respectively.

Connecting energy-consuming models

Energy-consuming ones (electric and combined heated towel rails) require electrical wiring in a room with high humidity, so you should take on such work only if you have the appropriate experience and understand the degree of responsibility. If in doubt, it is better to contact a specialist.

Criteria for choosing electric heated towel rails

In the bathroom, replacing a heated towel rail with your own hands is done in order to increase comfort, which means that when choosing a model, you should take into account its technical characteristics and requirements.


You can buy a cheaper, but less powerful unit if it is intended to be used only for its intended purpose. If you expect that the heated towel rail will also heat the air in the bathroom, choose a more powerful model.

Different types of products have their own operating nuances:

  • Oil-filled products take a long time to warm up, but when turned off long time maintain temperature.
  • Cable heated towel rails have much shorter heating and cooling periods.

The installation of various products also has its own characteristics, which should be taken into account when purchasing so that there are no problems during the installation stage:

  • Oil products must be fixed in a certain position and must be grounded.
  • Cable models are not picky about the choice of position, and for their safety, if it is impossible to ground, you can ground the equipment.

To increase security, it is preferable to choose hidden type electrical wiring.

General rules for installing volatile heated towel rails

Connecting a heated towel rail of this type with your own hands requires the presence of a separate (as for a powerful consumer) socket and the presence of a machine (for protective shutdown equipment).

If the heated towel rail socket will be placed in the bathroom, you should definitely choose a waterproof model (they always have a protective cover, and during installation they are “recessed” into the surface).

If you are thinking about how to do it, then our instruction article will be useful to you.

You can talk about the repair of shower cabins. The most common problems and how to fix them are described.

This material will help you make a choice between an acrylic and cast iron bathtub. Let's compare the pros and cons of each option.

Installing a heated towel rail: video

Self-installation of a coil in the bathroom is shown in the video.

Photo

Shown here in the photo are wall-mounted heated towel rails for the bathroom and their installation.

A heated towel rail is a useful device, and in many cases, necessary. It does not take up much space, does not require complex care, and it dries wet towels perfectly without large additional costs.

In some old houses, the installation of a heated towel rail was provided for by the design, but for the most part such devices are outdated both morally and technically. Modern models much more convenient and reliable.

There are two main types of heated towel rails: electric and water. Both the first and second ones are performed in the very different designs, different sizes, colors, configurations: from a simple curved tube to sophisticated models that look more like an interior decoration, but do their job quite well.

A beautiful heated towel rail can become a stylish decoration for your bathroom interior. It is believed that chrome models work longer and are somewhat more efficient.

Design of heated towel rails different types, of course, is fundamentally different.

In the first case, the device is heated using electricity, in the second, hot water circulates through the pipes. The installation procedure for electric and water models also has significant differences.

What should you consider before installing a water model?

The coolant in water models of heated towel rails is hot water. Most often, the device is connected to a hot water supply system, but this is not always possible. When deciding how to properly install a heated towel rail in the bathroom, such points should be clarified in advance.

For example, in houses where there is no central heating, they use geysers. In such rooms, water heated towel rails are connected to central system heating. This is not very convenient, since the heating device only works during the heating season; the rest of the time it is a regular towel rack.

If an electric boiler is used to heat water in the house, it makes sense to purchase a special double-circuit model.

In such boilers, one circuit is used to heat tap water, and the second is designed specifically for the heated towel rail

But the owners of private houses with completely autonomous system heating and hot water supply are much more free to choose.

If you decide to make a heated towel rail part of the heating system of an apartment building, it should be installed in the summer, before the heating season has yet begun. Typically, utility workers are extremely reluctant to agree to turn off the heating of the entire house during the winter cold in order to install this device that is not necessary for life. And the neighbors will hardly be happy about the lack of heating for several hours.

Before installing a heated towel rail, you need to find out whether there is water in the heating system. Usually it is drained in the summer, but this is not always done. You'll have to ask local utility workers to check this and turn off the water if necessary.

When installing a heated towel rail as part of the house water supply, you will also need to shut off the hot water entering the house. Older models of heated towel rails are usually not equipped with taps and a bypass that allows water to bypass the device, so you cannot simply remove it, you will have to ask local plumbers for help.

In some cases, you can turn off the water in the water supply or heating system yourself, but to do this you need to know exactly how to do this, and also inform local utility workers about your “independent activity” and obtain their consent.

When figuring out how to install a suitable heated towel rail in the bathroom, even before purchasing it, you need to decide on how to connect it. It could be:

  • bottom;
  • lateral;
  • diagonal (for “ladder” type models);
  • in the center of the bottom.

In the first case, the connection point of the device to the water supply is at the bottom, and in the second - on the side. Today, water pipes are hidden in the wall or masked with a partition, leaving only places outside for connecting the necessary plumbing. This is how models with side connections are installed, although the process is quite labor-intensive. Still, it makes sense to try: the bathroom looks much more attractive this way.

A heated towel rail with a side connection is installed on the wall so that the hot water pipes are hidden. It is important to carefully seal all connections

The lower connection is typical for old houses in which the design provides for the installation of a heated towel rail. The power of models with a bottom connection is approximately 10% lower than that of analogues with a side connection.

To increase the efficiency of the equipment, it makes sense to consider modifying the water supply and installing a model with a side connection.

The power of a heated towel rail with a bottom connection is usually about 10% lower than the power of a similar device with a side connection, however, these are the models that are usually installed in old houses

Sometimes the diameter of the heated towel rail pipes and the corpse pipe do not match. To connect them, special adapters are used. The diameter of such an adapter must be equal to or greater than the diameter of the water pipes. Otherwise, excess pressure may develop in the system, which can lead to an accident, leaks and other unpleasant problems.

An important parameter is the axial dimensions of the heated towel rail, i.e. the distance separating its entrance and exit. Be sure to consider the diameter water pipe to select a heated towel rail model of the appropriate size. The presence of adapters complicates the installation process and worsens the appearance of the device.

In addition, the risk of leaks increases. If you can’t do without adapters, it’s worth paying attention Special attention sealing each connection. When selecting taps and fittings, you should take into account the material from which the water pipes are made.

Combination different metals may cause electrochemical corrosion. WITH plastic pipes in this regard, the work is much easier.

It is believed that chrome-plated heated towel rail models are more durable than other options. In addition, such devices have higher heat transfer.

Installation procedure for a water heated towel rail

Installation of a water model of a heated towel rail is carried out in several main steps:

  • Removing the old device.
  • Bypass installation.
  • Installation of upper and lower faucets.
  • Installation of a heated towel rail.
  • Check connections for leaks.

Step #1: Removing the old device

So, by the time work begins, the water in the system should already be reliably shut off. You can remove the old heated towel rail, if it is welded to the pipes, using an ordinary grinder, simply cutting it off. It should be remembered that parts of the pipes will have to be threaded, so you need to cut them taking into account these dimensions.

A grinder will also be needed to remove a device with a threaded connection if it has become “stuck” to the pipes over time. In other cases, the old heated towel rail is simply unscrewed from the pipes and removed from the brackets on which it hung.

Stage #2: Bypass installation

A bypass is a special jumper connecting the inlet and outlet of the pipe to which the heated towel rail is connected. It is installed in front of the taps so that the flow of hot water through the pipes is not interrupted when the taps that separate the device from the hot water supply system are closed.

If there is no bypass in the system, for repairs or other manipulations with the device, you will have to shut off the water.

The bypass can be welded to the main pipes or screwed using threaded triple adapters. The diameter of the bypass pipe must be smaller sizes main highway

To install the jumper, you will need a piece of pipe of the appropriate size and diameter. Typically, a pipe of smaller diameter is used than the size of the main line pipes.

The bypass is welded to the main pipes or screwed using a threaded connection.

Conventional linen winding is most often used as a reliable seal for threaded connections. If the amount of winding is sufficient, screwing occurs with little effort

Step #3: Installing Top and Bottom Faucets

Before installation, you should purchase two shut-off valves, the thread diameter of which matches the diameter of the pipes on which it will be installed.

You can choose conventional taps that move only to two positions: “open” and “closed” or use screw designs to regulate the flow of coolant entering the device, i.e. the degree of its heating.

To be able to shut off the water supply to the heated towel rail at any time, you can use conventional shut-off valves, which are moved to the “open” or “closed” position.

This valve is designed to remove air from the device that has entered the system. It is mounted on the top of the heated towel rail. If the device has formed airlock, preventing the circulation of hot water, just open such a tap and bleed off excess air

Automatic models of the Mayevsky crane cope with this task even without human intervention. It is very easy to determine that air has entered the device; in this case, the heated towel rail does not heat up enough or cools down completely.

If the pipes do not have threads, they should be cut using a die with the appropriate characteristics. If there is a thread, but it looks old and worn, it also wouldn’t hurt to update it with special tool to improve connection quality.

Stage #4: Installing a heated towel rail

Before installing a heated towel rail, you should consider its placement on the wall. To do this, use special brackets, telescopic holders or clamps. Usually models good producers are completed necessary materials and fasteners.

The brackets should be installed on the wall. Usually, to do this, fixing points are marked on the wall, holes are made using a drill, then the brackets are screwed. Before starting work, you should study the manufacturer's instructions.

In some cases, a heated towel rail is first installed, and only then is it fixed to the wall.

Straight or corner fittings for a wall-mounted heated towel rail should be selected taking into account the size of the device and the aesthetics of their appearance

When installing a heated towel rail, you must remember special standards. If the pipe diameter is less than 23 mm, a distance of more than 35 mm should be left between the pipe and the wall, and if the pipes of the device are thicker - more than 40 mm - the distance to the wall should be increased to 50 mm.

To connect the heated towel rail to the hot water supply system, you will need fittings. Whether angular or straight fittings are used, it depends on the design of the device and the type of its connection. Of course, all connections must be properly sealed to prevent leaks.

Regular threads are traditionally sealed using linen winding. If enough material is used for this purpose, after screwing it will protrude slightly from under the thread.

If screwing is significantly difficult, there may be too much winding, but if the connection is easy to screw, it most likely needs to add a little more flax sealant. For conical threaded connections, use FUM tape.

When installing the heated towel rail, do not use excessive force to screw in all connections, so as not to accidentally damage the threads. The installation process for a water heated towel rail is presented in more detail in the following video:

Step #5: Check connections for leaks

After all work is completed, water should be supplied to the system again and the operation of the device should be checked. It is advisable to ensure maximum load on the device in order to detect even small leaks. In a situation where the heated towel rail is built into the heating system of the house, it is difficult to carry out such a check, because installation is usually carried out in the summer.

Leaks may appear only before the start of the heating season, when utility workers check the system's readiness for winter, subjecting it to increased loads. To prevent a leak from occurring while the apartment's residents are away, the heated towel rail taps should always be kept closed.

Although the description of the procedure for connecting a heated towel rail looks simple, in practice, performing all operations requires professional approach. If home owners do not have the appropriate skills, it makes sense to consult with an experienced plumber or entrust him with the entire range of work.

Installation of an electric heated towel rail

The main advantage of an electric heated towel rail is ease of installation. Like any wall-mounted electrical appliance, it needs to be hung on the wall and connected to the power supply. All that remains is to turn on the device itself and use it for its intended purpose. An important requirement is compliance with electrical safety rules.

Such a device should be connected only through a so-called “automatic machine” or RCD - residual current device. If the socket for connecting the device will be installed directly in the bathroom, be sure to use a special device protected from moisture.

This socket is mounted in the thickness of the wall and has a special cover. In addition, the electrical appliance must be grounded.

When installing an electric heated towel rail, you should use special sockets with increased protection from moisture. Such a device is connected via an RCD

It is believed that the option with an electric heated towel rail is not economically profitable compared to water models, as it increases heat bills. However, the power of such devices is not so great, as is the electricity consumption.

This is quite enough to dry wet terry cloth, but it does not cope very well with the role of a bathroom heater.