Installation of kitchen furniture. DIY kitchen set

• Headset price: $1270
• Square:
• Layout:
• Furniture color:
• Facades: Plastic
• Style:
• An association: -
• Floor: Tile
• Apron: Tile
• Ceiling: -

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In general, something had to be done about it, and I decided to move the washing machine to the other end of the room and place it between the gas stove and the wall by the window. According to the previously taken measurements, everything turned out “tuttle to tyutelka”: the width of the cabinet that had to be removed was 40 cm, the typewriter - 40 cm. However, in the process of dismantling the cabinet at the junction of the floor and wall, a heating pipe appeared, which prevented the washer from being installed in a niche, and if a wooden cabinet is easily trimmed, then naturally nothing can be done with a typewriter. I had to hastily build a small pedestal (to the height of the pipe) and install a machine on it, but even then everything was very clear - it was time for repairs.

As it turned out later, the machine not only launched this inevitable process, but also became, perhaps, the main element that influenced the design and design of the future kitchen.

Initial data

So, what did I have at the start of this whole event. A kitchen with an area of ​​6.2 m2 (according to the data sheet), which has not been made for many years, even cosmetic repairs. The kitchen set has been standing like this since the time the house was commissioned, and this is already almost 40 years old. The window frame is old, wooden. The refrigerator is old and needs to be replaced. The gas stove is relatively new, but does not meet the requirements of the wife.

In general, from what was supposed to be taken from the old kitchen and transferred to the new one, only the microwave and the washing machine mentioned in the prologue remained.

It remains only to add that the old layout of the kitchen and the location of all the elements on it always seemed to me terribly inconvenient, not practical and not rational, and therefore I began to fight for every centimeter, for every piece of free space, and, looking ahead, I want to admit, that I got it.

General provisions

I won’t open America if I notice that before starting, it is necessary to create a project for the premises as a whole. To do this, you need to know the exact dimensions of the room, as well as the position of existing communications. The thoughtless arrangement of light, sockets, water and sewerage, ventilation and other things in the early stages of repair, as a rule, does not make itself felt, but closer to the finish line it can be very striking, violating both the aesthetics and functionality of the room . So if you are not a professional, but consider yourself a "homemade" and believe in yourself, then start the repair by studying the basic data, so to speak, common truths. Find on the Internet and study articles from the category "20 typical mistakes when designing a kitchen", "", "a", etc. From them it will become clear what standard sizes of furniture exist, what kitchen facades are, at what height the wall row of cabinets is hung and what distance is recommended to be observed between it and the floor row.

Well, in order to finally start “drawing” cabinets on paper, you must either purchase all large free-standing and built-in household appliances in advance, or clearly imagine and know its installation dimensions and take it into account in the design. For what it is necessary and so it should be clear.

Design

Let's get back to my kitchen. As I wrote above, the choice of the concept of my headset was influenced by a washing machine, the main feature of which is the vertical loading of laundry. That is, unlike most washers, in my “working” plane is the upper plane, and all the rest can be hidden from the eyes of an outside observer. This is how the idea of ​​​​a corner kitchen was born, where the sides of the corner are cabinets, and the top is a typewriter. This arrangement is the most rational and gives maximum functionality.

In the picture above, you can already see a new window installed without a window sill and in a reduced opening. The old opening, in my opinion, was too large for such a room, and I refused the window sill, because I planned to fit the countertop in its place. At the same time, electrical wiring was done and socket blocks for household appliances were installed. Later, laying of tiles on the floor and walls, and wallpapering took place. I approached the final design of the headset with the following picture.

I took up drawing the kitchen in AutoCAD, because I was not trained in any PRO100, and I did not set myself such an initial goal. Although I will not hide the fact that if you master this specialized program, then in the future, according to your finished dimensions of the lockers, it will itself detail them and even offer the best fastener. My AutoCAD drawing came out much simpler, but, at the same time, quite visual.

Editor's Note: You could also use . Special knowledge is not required for use - take it and draw.

Let's go over the main points regarding the lockers I got:

• I decided to put the floor row on decorative aluminum legs, with the possibility of adjusting them in height. In my opinion, aesthetically it looks better than a blank plinth, and besides, there is (albeit limited) access under the lockers (for a mop or rag, for visual inspection for leaks from the water supply or sewer). The presence of decorative legs must be taken into account when further detailing the cabinets (see detailing).
• The facades of cabinets 1 and 5.6 (in fact, this is one cabinet, like 2.3, just in its original form I thought that it would be two cabinets, but I already left the numbering as it is so as not to change) will open up with the help of gas elevators.

• The front of the drying cabinet (2,3) will open upwards using the aventos HF system.

• The doors of cabinets 4 (above the washer) and 8 (under the sink) will be hinged on ordinary door hinges with a closer.
• An oven will be built into cabinet 9, so it will be hollow, there is only a small drawer under it for storing baking sheets and a grill grate.
• Cabinets 10.1-10.3 are three identical cabinets with drawers that will be pulled together with intersection bolts. Why drawers and not just shelves? The fact is that the contents of the retractable drawer are easy to look at. To get to things standing in the depths, it is not necessary to conduct archaeological excavations. Shelves, on the other hand, often turn into a "graveyard" of dishes and supplies, which the owners simply forget about.

Detailing and fittings

Let's imagine that the dimensions of your locker should be 600x700x300 mm. You take and order parts 600 wide, 700 high and 300 mm deep, and then you try to fit them. Naturally, you won’t get anything good at the end, because you don’t take into account the thickness of the part and how these parts will be joined together and located in the finished product. This is exactly why it is necessary to do detailing - the division of the finished product into its individual components.

Before I move on to a large table with ready-made parts for my kitchen, I will explain a few more points, what comes from where and how.

The height of the floor cabinet. The recommended standard height of the floor row is 860 mm. The thickness of the countertop is usually 28 or 38mm (I have 38mm). The height of decorative legs is from 70 mm and above (I have 100 mm). So it turns out that the height of the cabinet (the box itself) in my case is: 860 -38 - 100 = 722 mm. For the convenience of further calculations, I simply took 720 mm.

Drawers can be of several types:

• The drawer box is assembled from the same material as the rest of the kitchen (chipboard) and is mounted on roller or telescopic guides. As they say - cheap and cheerful.

• Metaboxes, tandemboxes, etc. In fact, these are ready-made boxes with fastening and adjustment systems, under which the bottom and back wall are only adjusted (cut out of chipboard). These systems are not cheap, but simple and easy to install. Plus they look very solid. Each manufacturer has schemes for calculating the installation dimensions, additive and installation of their tandemboxes. Be sure to download them from the Internet, or take them from sellers, study and proceed to detailing.

Gas lifts and aventos are mounted on top-row cabinets and are designed to open and hold facades by weight. In the construction market or in the store, the seller will advise you about these things, you just need to tell the material and dimensions of the facade that needs to be opened / held.

So, I present once again the scheme of the kitchen and the detailing that I got at the output.

Kitchen detailing (chipboard, plastic, fiberboard, countertop)

With this detailing, I went to the office that cuts and pasted chipboard, chose the materials that suited my taste and placed an order. For all the material with the work came out 660 dollars (of which 120 for the countertop).

While my order was being made, I was directly engaged in the purchase of all the necessary accessories, hardware, as well as household appliances. Everything I needed for the kitchen is shown in the table below.

Accessories, hardware, household appliances

As a result, the cost of the headset (without appliances) was $1270: facades, frames, fittings, countertops, glass.

Assembly of finished products

And now, a few days later, they brought me and unloaded a bunch of boards from laminated chipboard in front of the entrance, sprinkled plastic facades on top, added a couple of sheets of fiberboard and a 38-mm Egger countertop. I distributed all this goodness among the rooms of the apartment, having previously made the necessary sorting of the parts so that I knew exactly where and what closet I have

The most responsible, but at the same time, the most exciting part of the work begins - the assembly of finished products.

Equipment and tools for assembly

I need the following tools for my work:

• corner clamps (when working with confirmations, you can’t go anywhere without them). I bought cheap, flimsy ones on the market and reinforced them with two strips of chipboard. I assembled a kitchen with them, a wardrobe in the room, a chest of drawers and a shoe rack, and I will collect a lot of other things.

• Screwdriver + drill;
• Electric jigsaw;
• Special drill for confirmations (Euro couplers) and a hexagon bit;
• center punch (or awl) and a pair of pencils;
• joiner's corner, tape measure and rulers;
• A set of hammers and a mallet.

Before starting the assembly, I also made several templates for reaming parts for gluing onto wooden dowels, but immediately abandoned this idea in the process of work - confirmations securely and firmly tighten the product.

The collection of products should be carried out on a large flat flat surface and the better, the larger it is.

In order not to get confused in the process of working with the sides of the parts and their orientation, be sure to make marks on them with a pencil like “PR VN” (right sidewall outer side) or “Bottom”, i.e. so that you can understand.

I highly recommend marking and installing fasteners (for example, fasteners for gas lifts or adding telescopic guides for drawers) on individual parts, when they are not yet assembled in a box - you must agree that it is much more convenient to unfold a single part than to twist and turn every time there is a box on the table.

The algorithm of work is simple:

• marking with a square (ruler) and a pencil;
• pinning (possible with an awl or nail) a place for screwing;
• screw tightening.

I definitely advise you to screw it, because it’s impossible to just screw a screw into a laminated chipboard, it will scroll and slide off, which always causes considerable irritation.

When the markings for fasteners or additives are made, you can begin to assemble the box itself. Here, the main tools are angle clamps, a drill and a screwdriver.

We work on a similar algorithm:

• marking the place for drilling with a confirmation drill using a square (ruler) and a pencil;
• punching;
• fixing parts on corner clamps;
• drilling with a confirmation drill;
• tightening of details by confirmat.

The box is assembled, now it remains to hang the facade on it, attach the hanging loops to the wall and nail the back wall of fiberboard.

The facade is attached to the box on the door hinges without a closer. The holes in the facade for fastening the hinges are cut with a milling cutter with a diameter of 35 mm (in my case, this was taken care of by the office from which I ordered the parts).

Next, we attach mating parts to the facade for the installation of gas elevators and install the elevators themselves. Elevators can be installed in three positions, depending on which the facade will open at three different angles (less than 90, 90 and more than 90 degrees).

In the inner parts of the box we fasten the hinges for hanging.

At the finish, it remains to close the confirmations with plastic plugs, nail the back wall and attach a handle to the facade.

It turned out such a locker, which we will have located above the refrigerator.

Assembling cabinet No. 2,3 with aventos system

Aventos are of different types and they are installed on different cabinets. For a drying cabinet, the most convenient is the aventos of the HF system (these are aventos for two facades that open simultaneously in an L-shaped upwards), which I purchased. Installing such a product in a locker is not easy, but it is not some kind of super task. Aventos always comes with detailed, intelligible instructions, following which you will definitely succeed. In my Kessebohmer aventos there was even a special "drilling map" of holes, which simply had to be applied to the lines drawn in advance on the sidewalls (calculated according to the formulas given in the instructions) and drilled directly into it.

We fasten power mechanisms with levers to the sidewalls.

Now it's time for the facades. The upper facade is cast, the lower with a glass cutout. The upper facade is attached to the cabinet on ordinary door hinges, the facades are connected to each other by special overhead Clip Top hinges (opening angle 120 degrees). In the picture below, they are shown by the upper red arrow. The lower arrow points to the holes for the hinges, which were mistakenly drilled on the sharag. I didn’t scold them much, but I solved the problem myself: I glued wooden rounds into the holes and painted them with white paint - anyway, with the aventos open, the back of the facade is not visible to the eye.

Reciprocal levels are also attached to the lower facade to snap levers onto them. Well, here's what it looks like assembled. It remains only to adjust the stroke of the levers and the position of the facades (everything is in the instructions). Drying cabinet No. 2.3 assembled.

Cabinet No. 5,6 in the process of being assembled

Now we will deal with three floor cabinets No. 10. Their main feature is the installation inside retractable systems (tandemboxes).

Again, I repeat, the whole process is carried out according to the additive schemes that are supplied with the product. First, guides are seated and attached to the sides of the cabinet.

Drawer mounted on rails. A latch is snapped into the upper hole, which is attached to the facade.

A latch attached to the front of the drawer.

The system is very convenient, because it allows you to simply remove the front from the drawer in case of emergency. Plus, tandemboxes are equipped with a system for adjusting the facades vertically and horizontally, which is especially convenient when there are a lot of drawers (I have 9 pieces) and you need to fit them together.

Fastening fronts to drawers

We drill holes in the facades and fasten the handles. You need to drill the facade from the outside, and press a piece of some plank tightly against the inside, then the drill at the exit from the chipboard will not crumble it and the hole will turn out to be even.

The cabinet with drawers is almost ready.

We complete the assembly of the cabinet by installing decorative aluminum legs. The legs consist of two parts: one (with an external thread) is attached to the bottom of the cabinet with self-tapping screws, the second (the legs themselves) is screwed onto the thread. This system allows you to adjust the height of the legs, for example, to compensate for small uneven floors.

The rest of the floor cabinets (under the sink, under the oven) are not particularly remarkable, their assembly is exactly the same. The only thing they differ from the rest is that there are no back walls in them (water and sewage pipes are required for the sink, and the oven needs a free ventilated space for hot air to circulate).

Kitchen installation

So, our products are assembled, now it's time to start installing the kitchen.

wall row

It is now customary to hang a wall row of cabinets not on ordinary blind hinges, but on special furniture hinges with a hook that cling to a metal profile bar screwed to the wall. The advantage of such hinges is that the cabinet already hung on the profile can be adjusted both in height and in depth, which is very convenient for placing the facades of adjacent cabinets in the same plane.

We hang the cabinets of the upper row and, using a screwdriver, adjust the hinges up and down, back and forth so that the facades of adjacent cabinets are in the same plane, and the cabinets themselves hang in level.

bottom row

We tightly compose the cabinets of the floor row, adjust them in height (twisting / unscrewing the legs) and tighten them with intersection bolts.

We cover the cabinets with a countertop and from below, through the side rails (cross bars), we fix the countertop with self-tapping screws. You can also resort to the help of corners.

On the countertop we mark out places for embedding the sink and hob, drill a through hole so that you can insert a jigsaw blade and cut out pieces of the countertop.

We cover the holes of the countertop with a layer of silicone sealant, and also apply sealant to the front side of the countertop along the edge of the hole. We insert the sink and remove the squeezed out excess sealant with a rubber spatula. The same must be done for the hob, but only a heat-resistant sealant is needed.

Bottom row assembled. The tabletop on the right row is tightly fitted to the window.

Well, here's how it all looks together.

Installation of kitchen ceiling and bar counter

The next stage of work was the installation of the kitchen ceiling and bar counter. The kitchen is small, there is not much space on it, so the choice was made in favor of the bar counter, and not the traditional table, the place for which was left only at the entrance to the room, which, you see, is generally inconvenient.

Especially for the ceiling, four parts were cut out of chipboard (the same from which the cabinets were assembled). Two pieces were made with rounding, which will be the completion of the ceiling. The parts were attached to the wall using thickened corners and self-tapping screws, but the bulk of the ceiling fell on the top row cabinets. Nothing complicated.

For the bar counter, a piece of the same Egger tabletop measuring 2000x400 mm was cut out, the edge of which was also made with a radius. It turned out that the rack and the ceiling element above it have identical dimensions.

We drill holes (14x170) in the table top and put them on hidden shelf holders, previously fixed along the free wall.

Usually the recommended installation height of the bar counter is approximately 1100 mm from the floor, but it turned out a little higher for me. The height of my rack was adjusted so that a microwave could fit in the free space between it and the floor row. It somehow turned out like this.

A little later, railing pipes with various hooks, spice jars and trays will appear above and below the counter.

Well, the whole composition was completed by the 50th chrome-plated pipe with a holder for glasses and a shelf for fruits. Under the rack on the pipe I installed a holder with hooks for towels.

While the ordered bar stools were moving, I slightly upgraded the wall above the counter by making for it the most expensive painting I could.

Well, here's what actually came out of it. Railing pipes with hooks are already in place, plus lamps were cut into the ceiling and another holder for glasses was added.

What happened in the end

That's it, my kitchen with my own hands is now ready.

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Large companies selling kitchen sets provide their customers with a paid service for installing structures. However, many people prefer to do this work themselves in order to save significant money. In fact, assembling kitchen furniture is not considered too difficult work, if you carefully understand.

Before direct assembly, it is necessary to carry out certain preparatory work. They consist of several actions:

• tools are being prepared, and it is important to make sure that they are in working order. To work, you will need a screwdriver and an electric jigsaw, a drill, a hex screwdriver, a puncher, a tape measure, a hydraulic level and various small tools available to almost every man who prefers to do various housework on his own;
• a direct kitchen set is selected and purchased. As soon as it is delivered home, it should be checked to make sure that there are no defects or defects here, since, if necessary, some structural details will have to be replaced;
• the instructions for assembling kitchen furniture, attached to the headset, are carefully studied in order to determine the main stages and features of the planned work;
• the kitchen is freed from all unnecessary elements so that the kitchen assembly procedure is carried out easily.

During the work process, there is a high probability of causing damage to the existing floor covering, therefore it is recommended to close it in advance with some kind of protective sheet.

Stages of assembling kitchen furniture

How to assemble kitchen furniture? The kitchen installation procedure is implemented in several successive stages. The process begins with the assembly of the box, after which the drawers are assembled and the upper cabinets are mounted. Only then are the lower drawers of the structure installed.

Box assembly

Assembly of furniture begins with the formation of the box. For this, the following steps are performed:

• the side wall of the box is installed on a solid and even surface with the end face, and the facades should be located at the top;
• the wall of the cabinet is correctly joined to the bottom, and only at a right angle, after which they are connected to each other, for which confirmations are used, and there are already holes for euro screws in factory-made kitchens;
• on the other hand, the second side wall is fixed in the same way;
• two upper strips are mounted on each side of the structure, if the lower boxes are assembled, and a cover is installed for hinged ones;
• the cabinet is laid with the facade down, after which its diagonal is measured with a ruler, since it is not allowed that the values ​​obtained in different cabinets differ from each other by more than 1.5 mm;
• the back wall is attached to the cabinets, for which staples or small nails are usually used;
• for floor cabinets, legs are attached to the bottom, and they can be made of plastic or metal.

During operation, it is necessary to check that the ends of all side walls of the boxes are flush with the bottom and the lid, for which measuring equipment is used.

Side wall installation

Installation of the second side wall

The two upper slats of the box

Cabinet laying

Fixing the back wall

Assembly of drawers

The next step in the installation of the kitchen is the correct assembly of the drawers used in this design is mandatory. Without them, any kitchen becomes uncomfortable and unsatisfactory. For this, the following steps are performed:

• a box is made, for which four planks are fixed to each other at right angles;
• all such blanks must have the same diagonal;
• guides are attached to the side walls of each received box;
• facades are fixed with screws;
• special reciprocal latches are mounted on the bottom of the box, allowing you to attach the boxes to the rails.

As soon as the drawers are ready, the installation of the upper wall cabinets begins.

Create a box

We fix the guides

We fix facades

We fix the latches

Installation of upper cabinets

They must be securely and of high quality attached to the wall of the room. At the same time, it will not be difficult to use furniture for the kitchen for its intended purpose. This process is divided into successive steps:

• initially, the attachment points of all cabinets are marked, for which the optimal height is laid off from the floor, which determines the distance from it to the lower shelf of the cabinet;
• when choosing the optimal height, the height of the person acting as a regular user of the kitchen is taken into account;
• the height of the countertop is also determined in advance so that a distance of at least 0.6 m remains from it to the upper cabinet;
• from the marked marks, lines are drawn showing the locations of future fasteners, and the level should make sure that the line is perfectly flat;
• the method of hanging is chosen, for which standard mounting loops can be used, as well as a rail equipped with special hooks for fixing cabinets;
• for loops in the walls, holes are made with a perforator, and fasteners are inserted into them;
• cabinets are hung on the received fasteners, after which they are carefully aligned, which will allow you to correctly determine the location of the second fastener.

If it is planned to lay any pipelines through the upper cabinet, then for them in the back wall the corresponding holes are certainly made in advance with a jigsaw.

Create markup

Creating Holes

We insert fasteners

We hang lockers

Installation of lower pedestals

The lower boxes of the headset are usually installed after fixing the upper ones. Installation of kitchen furniture in this case is divided into stages:

• installation of the first cabinet starts from the corner of the room;
• the legs of each cabinet are correctly adjusted so that there are no distortions;
• all cabinets are lined up;
• adjacent elements are pulled together with a clamp, and then a furniture screed is used.

The next step involves the installation of a countertop, in which a hole is first made for washing using a jigsaw. The worktop should be properly leveled so that there are no distortions that reduce its service life and negatively affect the process of using the entire kitchen as a whole. For a large kitchen, you have to use two parts of the countertop, and special metal strips are used for their reliable and competent connection. By all means, these connections are processed with a sealant. After the two elements are securely connected, they are attached to the lower cabinets, for which special furniture corners are used.

We pull together lockers

We expose lockers

Adjusting the legs

Final stage

Do-it-yourself furniture is easy to install in the kitchen. After completing the main tasks, the final stages of work are carried out. You should be especially careful, since the appearance of the entire created structure depends on the implemented processes. Installation at this stage is divided into processes:

• in the place where the countertop adjoins the wall, it is necessary to use a special plinth that closes the existing gap, otherwise dirt and water will constantly penetrate into it, which negatively affects the service life of the entire headset;
• doors are fastened to all cabinets of the structure, and their adjustment is easily implemented using special new hinges;
• pre-assembled boxes are inserted into the headset, and various built-in appliances and furniture are installed;
• the kitchen should be well and efficiently lit, so at this stage, different lights and fixtures in the headset are additionally connected;
• a plinth is installed;
• we assemble and mount the sink, after which it is connected to the necessary communication systems;
• the areas where the sink connects to the countertop are certainly treated with high-quality sealant.

The installation procedure for a kitchen set is considered quite complicated, therefore, in order to prevent possible errors, it is recommended to pre-view the training video. Thus, the assembly of the most important kitchen furniture represented by the set can be done on your own. To do this, it is necessary to study the correct instructions in advance, watch the training video and use only high-quality materials and tools. This approach guarantees a durable and beautiful result.

Fixing the plinth

Installing the plinth

Door fixing

Washing installation

The nuances of the assembly of the corner structure

The corner kitchen is becoming more and more popular. This is due to the fact that the installation of a corner headset can be carried out even in the smallest and non-standard room. Designs are produced in numerous forms, which makes it possible to choose the best option for any room.

The main difficulty in installing a corner headset is the docking of different elements in the corner. Also, to obtain the correct and attractive result, the recommendations of specialists are taken into account:

• the assembly of the structure begins without fail from the angle chosen for installation;
• it is not advisable to assemble all the cabinets at the same time, since you should be guided from one assembled module, after which the subsequent elements are assembled;
• especially much attention in the corner kitchen is paid to joining two adjacent drawers in the corner of the room;
• most often there is a sink in the corner, however, if it is not very convenient for the owners of the premises to use it, then it is allowed to leave the corner cabinet either empty or install some small household appliances on it that are not used too often;
• all joints are necessarily treated with a sealant that protects the most important areas of the headset from high humidity and dirt.

Thus, the kitchen is an important room in any home. It is intended for the cooking process, so numerous interior items are certainly installed in it, making this procedure simple and quick. These primarily include a kitchen set, and it is allowed to install it on your own, if you understand the process well and use high-quality materials and tools. In this case, you can save a significant amount of money paid to professional installers. Particular attention should be paid to the alignment of all structural elements, since various distortions or other problems contribute to the short life of the entire headset.

The first rule for assembling and installing a kitchen set is timeliness. It is necessary to start assembling the kitchen only when all the work on surface finishing and wall cladding is completed, the process of installing electrical wires and water supply and drainage pipes is completed, and the design is not in danger of major changes and reconstruction.

Installing a kitchen with your own hands is an interesting and exciting activity. But if experience is not enough, this article will tell you how to properly install the kitchen and, moreover, assemble it into a single composition!

Finished kitchen assembly process

It sometimes takes a lot of time to assemble a kitchen set with your own hands. This process is influenced by such a factor as the conscientiousness of the manufacturer. Sometimes the assembly instructions contain only general theses and do not take into account that such rules may not be suitable for mounting different parts.

Misplacement of factory holes is another problem related to the question of how to assemble a kitchen set. Assembly is complicated by the fact that cabinets are not always packed separately. Some manufacturers wrap each board in a package. There are times when some of the parts from the upper cabinets of the kitchen set fall into the box where the lower cabinets lie.

Some apartment owners tend to assemble a kitchen set with their own hands. Assembly requires a minimum number of tools, including a building standard set (hammer, tape measure, nail puller) and electrical appliances.

Reference. A hammer drill is needed to drill a concrete wall. Among analogues, it is the most powerful device.

A hacksaw will be needed to cut the countertop and further install the hob or sink. With a screwdriver, you can quickly screw a large number of fasteners into the facade, so the assembly process will speed up. The next tool is a hexagon, it is better to purchase a whole set with flat and cross heads. For assembly, you may need screwdrivers of different diameters.

Assembling kitchen cabinets and cabinets

We start creating a kitchen composition with the assembly of cabinets and cabinets:

1. Using self-tapping screws, we fasten fasteners for one or two doors to the side walls (depending on the model).
2. We fix the skids for retractable modules in pre-prepared holes. It is better to do this at the very beginning of the process, later difficulties may arise.
3. If you notice non-through holes in the blanks, this is very good. Feel free to insert wooden dowels into them! They are responsible for a smooth frame and make the structure strong.
4. We connect the frame and tighten it with a hexagon and furniture screws. We close the hole in the screw with a decorative overlay to match the color of the headset.
5. We fasten the legs, while achieving a comfortable height.
6. After assembling the frame, we close the back wall with the help of small carnations with a sheet of fiberboard.
7. If the cabinet is hinged, we install mounting hardware on the back wall. For this, adjustable awnings are used. They are attached inside to the side walls of the cabinet close to the top corners.

We will postpone the installation of doors and the installation of handles on kitchen facades for now.

Assembly of drawers

Having assembled the base of cabinets and cabinets, we proceed to the assembly of drawers:

1. The assembly principle resembles the operations just completed. We assemble the frame of the boxes from three components, insert wooden dowels that will tighten all sides. At the end, a hexagon is taken for work, which will tighten the structure with screws.
2. We insert a sheet of fiberboard of a suitable size into the groove of the drawer - your drawer has a bottom!
3. We fix the facade with special ties.
4. Find guides with rollers in the kit - they must be screwed to the bottom of the sidewalls so that the rollers are at the back.
5. As soon as you install the handles on the kitchen fronts, you can try to insert the drawer into the cabinet by lifting it up a little. Thanks to the rollers, the drawers should slide easily along the guides.
6. Installation of closers on kitchen drawers is optional.

Kitchen installation sequence

It's time to learn how to install a kitchen. After assembling all cabinets and cabinets, we proceed to organize the kitchen, work surfaces and sink:

1. Find a sink cabinet. This side cabinet, as a rule, must be placed first. Do not forget to drill the necessary holes in the wall for sewer communications.
2. Then the turn of all floor cabinets. We make their adjustment in height so that the working surface is perfectly flat.
3. Now you need to connect all the floor cabinets to each other. For this, a special furniture screed is used.

Tabletop fixing

When the headset has already acquired its shape in the lower part, we will complement it with a tabletop:

• we mark the canvas as required by the size of the kitchen, with the help of a jigsaw we cut off everything superfluous;
• do not worry if there is a gap between the canvas and the wall - it can be easily closed with a plinth;
• the gap between two cabinets, for example, in the corner kitchen, is decorated with a metal bar, which is attached from the end of the countertop;
• in the place near the slab, it is also recommended to close the ends with a metal bar, and where the effect of heat is minimal, you can get by with an ordinary furniture edge;
• it is glued with a building hair dryer on a previously cleaned and leveled surface;
• treat the cracks accidentally formed during the assembly process with a moisture-resistant sealant - this way your kitchen will last much longer;
• the countertop is always installed not flush with the fronts of the cabinets, but with a small allowance in front, about 3 cm.

Washing installation

By the time the kitchen is installed, you should already have bought a new sink, if suddenly you decide to replace it too:

• mark the hole for the sink and cut it out with a jigsaw;
• when cutting, it is better to seek help from the household - the cut-out part will need to be held in order to avoid an accident;
• we fix the sink with special fasteners, which should be included;
• we treat the junction of the sink and the countertop with a sealant - this way you can prevent moisture from entering the gap.

Fixing wall cabinets

Fastening the kitchen to the wall begins with determining the height of the working area in the kitchen - it depends on the dimensions of the drawers and the level of the ceilings. The height of the kitchen from floor to top in the standard is 50-60 mm.

Advice. With a low growth of the hostess, as well as if the upper cabinets of the headset open upward with closers, it is better to install the upper shelves 45 cm from the level of the countertop, but no less.

There are two ways to hang kitchen drawers with your own hands.:

1. Using a mounting rail: one part of it is attached to the wall cabinet, and the second to the wall. This results in a hook-and-groove system that is easy to use and provides a secure fit. You can hang the cabinet in this way yourself.
2. Upper cabinets can be attached to the wall and, by conventional fastening, to furniture hinges. In this case, there are no gaps between the wall and the back wall of the cabinet.

Work must be done together, since for one the structure will be too heavy. Since modern mounting strips are quite expensive, budget hinges are used in classic furniture sets.

Fastening sequence:

• mark the mounting line of the cabinets at a distance convenient for the hostess from the countertop;
• make holes and fasten the rail for adjustable hangers. It is more reliable to use fastening on anchors than on dowel-nails;
• hang the cabinet on the rail, hooking the hooks on it, adjust the two bolts on the hangers so that the cabinet hangs evenly;
• start installation from a corner, use a false panel to hide wall irregularities;
• after installation, if necessary, fasten the cabinets with ties.

Do not forget to make holes in the sides of the cabinets for pipe outlet if ventilation is to be installed.

How to hang a kitchen on drywall

You can not screw a self-tapping screw into a drywall base, sincerely believing that it will hold. Gypsum is a rather loose material, so it is necessary to approach the installation of kitchen furniture on it wisely.

Important! Never use nails or ordinary self-tapping screws to fasten furniture to drywall directly.

The space formed between the wall and the gypsum will not allow ordinary dowels to hold tight. But there is still a solution! Depending on the chosen installation method, different tools and fixtures may be required.:

• screw-in dowels for drywall (for example, Driva);
• expanding anchors (for example, "Molly");
• dowel "umbrella";
• mortgage beam;
• special tire.

Explore mounting options to choose the most suitable one.

Dowel "butterfly"

The butterfly dowel is a fairly simple device., which is used to fasten cornices, skirting boards, brackets, wall cabinets or fixtures to a sheet of drywall.

It is a self-tapping screw, supplemented with a plastic element. which looks like butterfly wings. It is from this that the fastener got its name. When the dowel is twisted, the “wings” straighten out and are pressed tightly against the back surface of the drywall sheet. Due to this, the load on the sheet is distributed more evenly, which significantly reduces the risk of material damage during installation work.

It is rarely used for mounting wall cabinets., however, if this happens, use a metal profile to add rigidity to the structure.

You can find where the profile passes with a magnet. They are led along the wall until a guide is found. So you can accurately determine the location of the profile and not miss when drilling a hole.

Metal dowel "Molly"

It resembles an umbrella in its principle of operation. Withstands significant loads - up to 35 kg. The step by step installation process is as follows:

1. Under the diameter of the dowel (usually 8 mm), drilling is performed in the wall or ceiling.
2. The sleeve is inserted into the hole so that the teeth located on the cap cut into the surface - this will prevent the fastener from turning.
3. Screw in the screw until the drop-down triangles dig into the drywall from the back of the sheet, ensuring a secure fit.

Important!"Molly" cannot be dismantled: to extract it, you will have to break the wall.

The advantages of Molly dowels are obvious: due to the formation of a cone-shaped structure from the back of the gypsum board, they increase the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsupport and prevent the sheet from breaking under load. The disadvantages include the high cost and the need for free space behind the plasterboard.

Installation using metal anchors

Such anchors are most often used when you need to fix something to the ceiling., so they can handle an ordinary locker.

Special extended anchors are used to reach the load-bearing wall. They go through drywall and are attached to the main wall. This is reminiscent of mounting on ordinary dowels without the use of plasterboard. However, with this method, everything must be clearly calculated in advance so that along the way such anchors do not rest against the mount used to create the frame for drywall.

Reference. The advantage of such anchors is the ability to use screws with different heads: it can be a regular clamping screw, and a hook, ring or other element is used instead of a standard head, which is best suited for mounting cabinets.

First, markings are made and holes of a given diameter are drilled.. Anchors can only be fixed in a concrete or brick wall, the thickness of which must be 8 cm or more. The depth of the hole should be 5 cm. At this minimum depth, you need to drown the anchor in the main wall.

Before you hang the cabinet on a drywall wall, you need to properly install the anchor. Studs are inserted into the prepared holes so that the anchor enters first, and the nut remains outside. If it goes tight, then you can score with a hammer.

Anchor screw is screwed in with a wrench. We listen carefully: during such a clamp, the petals will open and rest against concrete or brick, this will be accompanied by a characteristic creak. Everything must be done carefully so as not to damage the drywall sheet. When the anchor is firmly fixed, you need to twist the nut.

Wall cabinets are hung on protruding studs followed by fixation.

Mortgage beam

Hanging kitchen cabinets using a mortgage beam is a rather old technique.. It is usually used in the kitchen when they know in advance exactly where the furniture will be placed. The beam is installed in a frame of metal profiles during its assembly, and is provided at the time of planning. The fact is that it is best to drive a wooden beam into a profile and install them at the same time.

Reference. The width of the beam for greater reliability of installation should be within 8-10 cm.

This method is very reliable, because the bar is not only well fastened in the frame (by the profile itself, nails or self-tapping screws), but is also a reliable basis for fastening the cabinet.

Before you hang the cabinet on a drywall wall using a mortgage beam, you need to find it under a layer of fine finish. You can search for a horizontal profile with a magnet, but it is advisable to think it over even earlier. After assembling the frame, it is necessary to measure at what height from the floor (ceiling) the center of the beam is located. Then this data will be used for high-quality editing.

There are several options for fastening to a wooden beam:

• we use ordinary wood screws to fix wall cabinets;
• we drill holes for dowels, on which we will then fix everything;
• We use special dowels with hooks for more convenient hanging.

remember, that you will need two such beams, since the cabinet is attached not only at the top, but also at the bottom. So more reliable. One mortgage is needed if a bookshelf or something like that is hung.

Installing the mounting rail for the towing bracket

It is not always possible to think in advance where everything will be in the room before the repair work is carried out.. Often the thought of hanging cabinets comes after the walls have been sheathed with drywall and a fine finish has been completed. So the question arises, how to hang a cabinet on drywall in such a situation.

You can use special dowels, but not everyone will be able to make the correct markup so that each fastener is in a clearly designated place. Then you need to use a horizontal tire. The essence of the method is simple: two tires are mounted on the wall, on which all the cabinets will then be hung.

The tire is a narrow metal profile of a special shape with multiple holes for screws. Through these holes and self-tapping screws, the tire is attached to the drywall. You can buy several of these two-meter profiles, which is quite enough for your goals.

Reference. In order to be able to fasten cabinets using this technology, they must be equipped with special brackets that can be hooked onto the tire.

The installation technology itself is quite simple.:

1. Marks are set at given heights from two edges of the wall. They will then join in horizontal lines.
2. Do not forget to double-check all the distances between the brackets and lines. The cabinet will be fastened with upper and lower brackets to two tires at once.
3. The level checks the horizontal lines.
4. The total width of all kitchen cabinets is measured, after which the tire is cut to a predetermined value. It may be necessary to use two or three tires in one row. It all depends on the selected furniture.
5. Tires are attached to drywall with self-tapping screws.
6. Now you can hang kitchen cabinets on drywall. The brackets have adjustment screws so that the cabinets can always be pulled up to the desired position.

Although everything is attached to simple self-tapping screws, there are a lot of them and the pressure is evenly distributed over the tire. Moreover, the locker will be kept on two tires at once.

How to make doors

And now, the assembly of the kitchen set is almost completed. It remains to hang the doors:

• fix the hinges with self-tapping screws into the prepared groove on the facade;

• fix the door on the cross-shaped plates that you screwed at the very beginning and tighten the bolts;
• if the position of the door is uneven, adjust it horizontally and vertically using the two bolts on the mechanism;
• the final stage is the installation of handles on the facades of the kitchen.

Skirting board installation

To provide an attractive appearance to the new kitchen, it is necessary to close the space between the new countertop and the wall.

Before deciding how to install a skirting board on a kitchen worktop, you need to know that there are two mounting methods: on glue (you can use silicone or liquid nails) and using self-tapping screws.

Glue installation is easier and simpler, but has some disadvantages. The disadvantage of the method is that the plinth is attached tightly. Therefore, if in the future you want to remove it, the strips will most likely break when dismantled, and traces will remain at the attachment site, which will not be so easy to remove. In addition, when installing in this way, there will be no niche that allows you to hide electrical wires, because the plinth will fit snugly against the wall.

Reference. As a rule, the adhesive mounting method is used for plastic, ceramic and stone products.

Installation on self-tapping screws is better to prefer if necessary quick and careful disassembly of the baguette.

On glue

Mounting the skirting board to the countertop is as follows:

1. The surface on which the baguette will be attached is thoroughly cleaned and degreased with an alcohol-containing agent.
2. On those parts of the plank that will be in contact with the wall and countertop, apply a layer of adhesive-sealant.
3. We apply the bar to the wall and countertop, carefully pressing and holding the time according to the instructions for the glue.
4. Installing the corner piece.
5. We cut off the decorative strip, taking into account the fact that it should go into the corner a little.
6. We bring the edge of the panel under the corner insert and snap it into the grooves along the entire length of the guide.
7. After installing the decorative trim, install the end caps by inserting them into the mechanism.

With self-tapping screws

In this case, the installation process involves the use of a screwdriver. Most often, the plinth is attached to the countertop (if it is fixed to the apron, it can be deformed at the slightest displacement of the table).

To avoid installation difficulties, work must be done in the following order:

1. We measure the countertop and cut off a piece of baguette of the appropriate length using a hacksaw with fine teeth. We clean the cut edges with an abrasive.
2. The place where the plinth will be located is treated with silicone for better sealing and preventing moisture ingress.
3. We attach the base part (profile) to the installation site.
4. Using a screwdriver, we screw the screws into the bar and the countertop at a distance of about 30 cm.
5. We install the front cover, inserting its base groove until it clicks.
6. We close the corners with corner plates, and we attach end caps to the edges of the baguette.
7. We process the joints of the connecting elements with silicone sealant.

Hidden wiring can be embedded inside the skirting board.

Conclusion

Having figured out how to properly install the kitchen, you can save a lot on the services of assemblers, and most importantly, do everything carefully without damaging walls and coatings. When the work is completed, all you have to do is bring in the refrigerator, and fill the furniture set with kitchen utensils. Now you know about assembling a kitchen as much as seasoned professionals!

In a modern apartment, the kitchen is the most visited place by all family members, so choosing a set for the kitchen, an important task is its proper installation.

For example, errors in the installation of built-in kitchen appliances are one of the reasons for their failure, and too high an arrangement of kitchen cabinets, along with improved jump training for all family members, can lead to injuries and reduce the amount of dishes in the house.

When deciding how to install a kitchen set, you should sensibly evaluate your capabilities in the case of single-table options with a complex configuration or built-in household appliances.

Required tool

Depending on the type of kitchen set, you may need a different construction tool. If the bottom row of the kitchen consists of free-standing cabinets that are not interconnected by a common worktop and without built-in household appliances, you may need the following tool to install the kitchen set:

• building level;
• tape measure or ruler, pencil;
• puncher or electric drill with impact drilling mode, drills for concrete and wood;
• flat and Phillips screwdriver, wood saw;
• accessories: dowels with screws, wall plinth.

In cases where you need to cut a niche in the countertop for a hob, sink, or install a kitchen from several parts of the countertop, you need a special construction power tool to cut it and cut mounting holes in the countertop sheets, accessories for fastening its parts.

Even if you have the necessary tools, it will be quite difficult to cope with the task on your own, you may need the help of a specialist.

Installation of a kitchen set

When determining how to properly install a kitchen set, you should follow the basic rules:

• Refrigerator stove and sink should not be located next to each other.
• The distance from the walls of the oven to any work surface must be less than 40 mm. (the rule does not apply to special types of ovens with forced cooling of the body).
• The assembly of the kitchen begins with the placement of the base - the kitchen modules of the lower row: cupboards, sinks, dishwashers, hob, oven, installation starts from the corner.

Depending on the furniture manufacturer, the kitchen can be delivered assembled or disassembled, in the latter case, it will have to be pre-assembled by yourself.

Installing lower modules

Before installing the kitchen set, it is necessary to prepare all communications: bring out sockets for connecting kitchen appliances, prepare plumbing pipes for supplying water to the sink, dishwasher and washing machine in the module, install the necessary pipes to drain used water from kitchen appliances or sink.

Pipes and electricity will pass through the lower part of the headset, so you need to first calculate the presence of all communications

All outlets for water and sewer pipes, sockets must be located in accordance with the plan for the future placement of the kitchen set so as not to interfere with further assembly.

Work must be carried out in the following sequence:

• If the kitchen is supplied assembled, the fronts (doors) must first be removed from the cabinets before installation.
• Holes are cut in the side and rear walls of the cabinets for hoses and pipes for supplying and discharging water, electric cables for connecting to kitchen equipment.

All cut holes must be additionally treated with a special water-repellent compound.

• The installation begins with a headset corner pedestal, then the rest are sequentially attached to it. It is advisable to install them according to the level, if the kitchen is equipped with complex household appliances (hob and dishwashers, ovens), installing floor modules according to the level is a strictly prerequisite.

All modern kitchen sets are equipped with height adjustment of the cabinets with the help of legs, by screwing which you can achieve a horizontal arrangement of the cabinets according to the level.

• In the event of an uneven floor in the kitchen, in some cases it may be necessary to trim the decorative skirting boards that cover the legs of the cabinets of the kitchen set.
• Next, the cabinets are fastened together using self-tapping screws or furniture ties into a single rigid block.
• When installing and assembling a laminated MDF or chipboard countertop from several parts, you will need its high-quality trimming and connection. It is difficult to do without a special circular saw or jigsaw for cutting thick MDF or chipboard, special devices for precise cutting along the line. During installation, parts of the tabletop are fastened in various ways: using spikes, a standard system of furniture fasteners using special fittings, and gluing connecting materials to the bottom of the sheets to be fastened.
• A newfangled phenomenon is the installation of hydraulic door closers in a kitchen set, which absorb the impact of the door leaf on the furniture body when closing. To do this, using a special template, holes are drilled in the ends of the side walls of the cabinets, into which the closer rods are placed.
• Shelves are mounted inside the cabinets and metal structures are screwed, the fasteners of the hanging garbage bin are installed, the doors are hung again, they are adjusted and the handles are screwed, and the drawers are put in place.
• Then you can install a washing machine, dishwasher, oven, hob.
• A metal or plastic plinth is attached to the countertop, the latter more tightly seals the connection between the countertop and the wall surface, often an external electrical wire is hidden in it.

Installation of mounted modules

To facilitate installation, it is necessary to remove the doors from the wall-mounted modules if the furniture was delivered assembled.

• For an aesthetic appearance of the kitchen, it is necessary that the hanging kitchen cabinets are strictly above the lower rows of cabinets: this is especially true in kitchens with separate modules. Therefore, on the wall it is necessary to draw the vertical dimensions of all modules standing on the floor.
• The usual installation height of wall cabinets is 50 - 70 cm from the countertop, it can be more accurately determined by attaching the cabinet to the wall and checking the ease of access to the top shelf of the least tall member of the family, with the exception of children. The top of the cabinet is marked on the wall, along the entire length, with the help of a level, a line is drawn for the location of the top of the boxes.
• If the fasteners of the cabinets are placed above or inside their dimensions, a parallel line is drawn at the required distance and two fastening points are marked on it, taking into account the distance between the fastening fittings, this is done for all hinged modules of the kitchen set.
• With the help of a perforator and a drill, holes of 8 - 10 mm are drilled, dowels are hammered in, ordinary screws or hooks are screwed into them. The cabinets are suspended on metal plates with slots (“ear”), which are usually built into the cabinet, the height of the suspension is regulated by a gear system with an additional metal plate (in older models bolts with nuts were used for adjustment).

Currently, the method of attaching wall cabinets is widely used using a special metal rail of different lengths (can be cut off), which is attached to the wall. In this case, inside the cabinet, in the upper corners, there are fixing plastic modules with hooks, through which they are suspended from the upper edge of the tire. The fasteners provide the ability to adjust up and down and the distance from the wall. The method of attaching to the rail is convenient because the cabinets are easy to hang and remove, can be moved and interchanged.

• Next, shelves are installed in the cabinets, handles are screwed and doors are hung, which are then aligned with special screws of the mounting system.

Backlight

One of the ways to illuminate the working area of ​​​​the kitchen is to install lighting elements on the kitchen set in the system of hanging cabinets. The most common option is to install the backlight on a wide visor made of laminated chipboard, which is installed above hanging cabinets and protrudes beyond their dimensions.

The backlight can serve as an additional source of lighting when cooking, but not the main one.

With a standard width of cabinets of 30 cm, a 50 cm canopy plate is selected; lamps of almost any type can be used as fixtures.

Installing the backlight with spotlights at the bottom of hanging cabinets is structurally quite difficult; you will have to use overhead types of fixtures. The use of fluorescent and other lamps looks rather cumbersome, the solution is to use LED self-adhesive tape - this will greatly simplify the constructive task of local lighting of the working area by installing the backlight on the bottom surface of kitchen cabinets.

Headset Installation Problems

Depending on the type of kitchen space, when installing the headset, some nuances may arise that will interfere with the work or violate the aesthetic appearance.

Gas pipes are quite difficult to move, so pre-calculate the pipe outlet for your stove

Gas pipes and counter

When installing a kitchen set, you often have to deal with the problem of gas pipes and a meter that spoil the appearance of the kitchen. In this case, the best option is to embed them in a kitchen wall cabinet. You will have to remove the back wall and cabinet shelf and cut out the necessary niches in them.

uneven floor

The lower kitchen modules of the set must be leveled; in case of a very uneven floor in the kitchen, it may be necessary to trim the lower decorative plinth. This is best done with a jigsaw, it gives a smooth and even cut, it is desirable to cover the cut edge with a water-repellent composition (sealant, paint, hydrophobic composition).

Windowsill

Part of the interfering window sill can simply be cut off or replaced with a narrower one. If the window sill is at the level of the headset, you can, on the contrary, expand it by replacing it and making it a continuation of the kitchen worktop.

Fragile walls

A heavy kitchen cabinet can tear out drywall, it is advisable to strengthen the place for the headset

Sometimes, during redevelopment, a situation may arise when wall cabinets in the kitchen have to be hung on plasterboard or gas silicate walls. In the case of drywall, you will have to additionally strengthen the place where the cabinets are suspended. This is easy to do if you dismantle the wall and strengthen it in the right place with a wooden beam or profile.

Fixing cabinets to a weak wall made of drywall or gas silicate is best done on a mounting metal rail, which is attached to the surface at many points in increments of no more than 20 cm, while using special dowels for drywall - TT22, DRIVA.

Installing a kitchen set with your own hands will not only significantly reduce the cost of re-equipping the kitchen, but will also provide an opportunity to ensure the quality of work we need. That is why, when purchasing a kitchen, many of us refuse the services of master assemblers and prefer to do all the work ourselves.

In our article, we will describe in detail all the nuances of assembling the main elements of the headset, and tell you how to install it correctly.

Preparatory stage

Before you install a kitchen set, you need to carefully prepare and stock up on all the necessary tools and materials:

• First, we check the complete set of the headset so that at the time of installation we do not accidentally find a shortage of any part or fastener. If something is missing, you need to either buy this element, or contact the company where we purchased the furniture.
• Next, prepare the entire tool that we will use when assembling and installing the headset. Be sure to check the performance of the power tool, and if we use cordless screwdrivers or screwdrivers, then we make sure that the batteries are fully charged.
• We check the performance of the sockets to which we will connect the power tool.
• We clear the place for assembly from construction debris, take out of the kitchen all items that can be damaged.

Advice! When assembling furniture, there is a risk of damage to the floor covering, so you should cover it with thick polyethylene, tarpaulin or non-woven material.

You should also prepare all communications necessary to connect to the headset. First of all, these are water supply pipes that will be hidden under the sink, as well as a ventilation pipe for connecting to the hood.

When everything is ready, you can unpack the headset and proceed to assemble and install it.

Furniture assembly

Assembling kitchen cabinets

Installation of kitchen sets is carried out in the following sequence:

• First, we collect all the details of the headset.
• Then - we apply markings on the walls for the installation of mounted modules.
• We hang the upper cabinets.
• We collect the lower part, connecting the cabinets with the table top.

It is in this order that our instructions will describe all these operations.

We start the assembly from the bottom pedestals:

• First, using the euro screws included in the kit, we connect the bottom with the side walls.
• We install the upper slats, on which the countertop will then lie. We check the diagonals of the cabinet with a tape measure. If the length of the diagonals differs by no more than 1.5-3 mm, proceed to the next operation.
• We fasten the back wall of a fairly thin fiberboard with small nails or a construction stapler. To ensure the reliability of fastening, the step between the brackets should be no more than 8-10 mm.

• We install legs on the lower part of the cabinet, fixing them with self-tapping screws.
• We install hinges in the previously made nests and fix them with self-tapping screws, after which we fasten the lower facades to the hinges.
• Having set the cabinet in a vertical position, we align the doors with the help of the adjusting screws on the hinges.

The final stage of assembly is the installation of handles.

Assembling drawers

The technology for assembling drawers is somewhat different:

• First, we apply markings on the side walls for the installation of metal guides.
• According to the markup, we strengthen the guides themselves, after which we connect the side walls to the bottom and upper slats.
• We assemble retractable elements by installing mechanisms on their side surfaces.

Note! The weak point of such boxes is the bottom. It must be fastened with a construction stapler, hammering in staples in increments of 5 - 8 mm.

• We install handles on the front of the drawer.

It is better to assemble the cabinet body and sliding elements not immediately, but only after installing the entire headset. This will greatly facilitate all manipulations for you.

Wall cabinet

This element is the easiest to assemble:

• First, we assemble the “cabinet box”, connecting the bottom, top and side walls with euro screws.
• Then we attach the back wall to the nails or staples.
• When the base of the cabinet is assembled, we install hinges in the nests and fix them with self-tapping screws. At this stage, it is better not to hang the doors, as they will complicate the installation of cabinets on the wall.
• The final stage of the assembly is the fastening of the suspensions. When we have dealt with this, we can proceed with the installation of our furniture.

Note! The assembly procedure of all parts is clearly shown in the video, in addition, the sequence of all operations should be indicated in the instructions that come with the headset.

We install furniture

Installation of mounted modules

We begin the assembly of furniture with the installation of its upper part, since the assembled lower module with the tabletop installed can interfere with the installation of hanging elements.

To begin with, we apply markings on the wall for mounting wall cabinets:

• We measure the height of the countertop and add from 50 to 60 cm to the resulting figure, depending on our height. This will be the height of the lower edge of the hinged modules.
• From the line thus obtained, we set aside the distance to the attachment point of the wall cabinet and draw another line. It is on it that we will fix the fasteners.

Advice! If a corner cabinet is included in the kit, start assembling the upper segment from it, and only after it is leveled, proceed with the installation of all other parts.

After marking, we proceed to install the fasteners:

• If we hang the cabinets on loop fasteners, then we drill holes in the wall with a diameter of 8 mm, into which we hammer plastic dowels.
• In the dowels we twist the locking screws with hooks at the ends, after which we hang the cabinets.
• An alternative way is to hang the modules on a special metal rail. To do this, fasteners of a special shape are attached to the cabinet itself, which cling to a metal profile fixed to the wall (see photo).

• Mounting on a tire is considered more reliable, so if possible, use this particular method, especially since the price of the tire itself and the mounts is low.

When the installation of the modules is completed, we hang the facades and align them with adjusting screws.

Mounting the bottom

The floor part is assembled a little easier:

• At the first stage, using an electric jigsaw or a hacksaw with a thin blade, we cut holes in the back walls of the pedestals for the passage of communications. We treat the edges of the cuts with a silicone-based sealant, protecting the furniture from getting wet and deforming.
• We install the cabinet in the place allotted to it, set it according to the level, after which we connect it with furniture ties with neighboring cabinets.

When all the cabinets are in place, you need to install the countertop:

• If necessary, we cut the countertop panel to the size of our kitchen, after which we install a protective end cap.

Note! When installing a countertop, there must be a gap of at least 5 mm between it and the kitchen wall to prevent deformation.

• We attach the countertop to the cabinets, and on its lower surface we mark the installation site of the sink.
• Having removed the countertop and laid it on a table or workbench, we make a “genzdo” for washing. The easiest way to do this is to drill several holes with a drill and connect them with a jigsaw.
• We install and fix the sink on the countertop, treating the junction with silicone sealant.

• We lay the table top with a fixed sink on the kitchen cabinets, align it horizontally and on the plane, after which we fix it on the kitchen modules. To do this, you can use special fasteners, or you can simply drive the spikes on the countertop into the slots drilled in the walls of the cabinets.
• We mask the joint of the tabletop and the wall with a special plinth.

This completes the assembly of all furniture. You can connect the sink to the water supply and sewerage, install household appliances and start using the kitchen in normal mode.

If you carefully study all the above recommendations, then you should not have any questions about how to properly install a kitchen set. And this means that you will cope with this work without turning to the masters for help - and thereby provide yourself with not only a legitimate reason for pride, but also significant savings!