Do-it-yourself installation of Finnish doors. Instructions for installation and operation of the Jeld-Wen entrance door

In this video you will learn how to properly install interior doors from step by step instructions with your own hands.

The work of installing interior doors is quite complex and requires accurate measurements, compliance with certain technologies and good experience in this area. Therefore, the question of how much it costs to install interior doors has a clear answer - not cheap.
Therefore, the alternative is to install the door yourself, but only after a detailed study of the basic installation technique. The first thing you need to prepare is materials and tools. This is a door with a frame and hinges, dowels and screws, anchors and wooden wedges, polyurethane foam; drill, level, tape measure, hacksaw, protractor.
After dismantling old door and taking measurements, you select new door. Cut in the hinges (usually two or three pieces), paying attention to the location of the handle and the direction the door opens. For marking, you will need a protractor. Next, proceed to planting the door frame. The box must be aligned horizontally and vertically and secured in the opening. The door leaf is tried on the frame several times.
If necessary, the box is “slung” onto the foam. All visible cracks are filled with foam. The last step is surrounding with platbands. During door installation important point are gaps that have standard values. The top and sides are at least 2 mm, the bottom is 6-12 mm.
According to their type of movement, doors are divided into sliding, swing and folding. The easiest to install are swing doors. Sliding and folding doors have various modifications and design features, so if you are not experienced enough, it is better to entrust the installation of this type to professionals.
Installation of interior doors usually requires the participation of two people, and the entire procedure from preparing the doorway to installing the fittings cannot be rushed, or neglected for fittings and additional measurements. Only in this case will the door be installed efficiently and serve for a long time.

Installation of Finnish front door You can do it yourself, in this video the installation technology is quite clearly presented. You can additionally read the text version. You can also order delivery and installation of the door from us.

A frame (casing) for installing a door in a wooden house or a frame made of timber or logs

Installation of doors and windows in a wooden house differs significantly from installation in houses built from stone materials and frame houses. Everyone knows the phenomena of shrinkage in wooden house from timber or logs. For compensation negative impacts This phenomenon, before installing a door or window, an additional wooden frame, the so-called (casing, casing or frame), is installed in the opening. The casing is not rigidly attached to the frame structure, which allows the window or door to “slide” in the opening, thus compensating for shrinkage deformations wooden walls. More details in this video. Our company offers you correct installation doors in wooden houses and log houses in compliance with this technology

Starting from 2019, EU countries are switching to residential construction standards, according to which the level of thermal insulation of private and multi-storey buildings cannot be lower than the “passive” class (energy consumption for heating should not exceed 15 kWh/(m² year)). Thermal resistance windows and doors within this class - not less than 0.9 (m² K)/W. IN climatic conditions Northern Europe and middle zone In the Russian Federation, only Finnish entrance doors satisfy these requirements. However, in the domestic private housing construction, these products have enjoyed well-deserved respect for more than 20 years, regardless of any foreign standards.

Our developers use the term “doors with a thermal break.” What does this mean? To explain, let’s take a short excursion into architecture and construction.

A good architectural solution for thermal cutoff is to install a vestibule with an internal door that duplicates the entrance door. However, why spend money on two doors instead of one and lose square meters for the arrangement of the vestibule, if everything can be solved differently?

There are two types of heat loss associated with entrance doors - heat transfer and convection. In the first case, energy saving is achieved by using heat insulators, in the second - by using high-quality seals that eliminate air leaks through the gaps. Design door leaf based on the sandwich panel principle, it eliminates the issue of increased heat transfer over the area. At the same time, the absence of an all-metal shell eliminates the formation of a perimetric cold bridge. After all, even a “classic” door that is well insulated inside freezes through for this reason.

What is thermal break in simple words: When you remove a pan with metal handles from the stove, to avoid getting burned, take an oven mitt. So the tack will act as a thermal break.

In door blocks thermal insulation material divided into several layers. The transitions between layers of insulation will act as a thermal break.

In addition to direct heat loss in cold winter conditions, all-metal doors can also cause aesthetic inconveniences: frost on the canvas and a puddle of condensation at the threshold in the hallway do not look very “cosy”... Finnish entrance doors do not have all these disadvantages. Along with the insulated fabric, the thermal break in them is also ensured by the structural features of the box.

Other advantages of passive house doors

Like most Scandinavian products, warm wooden doors are positioned not only in terms of energy saving, but also in terms of environmental friendliness. The principle of zero gas emissions is applied to all components - from the frame and filler to the cladding and the type of emulsion finishing paint.

The consumer chooses between flat painted or aluminum surfaces, as well as bas-reliefs and milling various depths and stylistics. Glass inserts complement the aesthetic palette. By the way, about glass: as in energy-saving windows, warm Finnish doors use a two-chamber double-glazed window with k-glass and argon filling of the chambers.

Finnish warm doors with double glazed windows

Products of the “Arctic” type (as doors in this category are also called) are superior to conventional wooden entrance modules in strength, reliability, durability and heat conservation. They are not afraid of any climatic zones and vagaries of weather. Despite the “northern” design, the parameters of the product also improve the microclimate of the house in southern conditions, preventing heat from penetrating into the hallway and living room.

These doors differ favorably from armored metal doors not only in that they are warmer. The weight of the product is also important. With the same quality of canopies, Finnish Arctic doors open and close easier. Their canvases do not warp during long-term use.

Finnish manufacturers are distinguished by a wide range of design developments. Why is a wide variety of entrance door models important? The fact is that the interior of a Northern European house implies the absence of a hallway. Entry group located in the living room. Therefore, both the entrance from the street and the passages to the rooms are in view at the same time. Therefore, the product should be in harmony not only with the exterior of the house, but also with the overall style of the interior, if possible matching the design with the interior doors.

Typical configuration of Arctic category products

Typically, the leaf of such a door consists of a sandwich 60 mm thick. Its layers are:

Externally placed, HDF sheets coated with weather-resistant paint.
Aluminum sheet. Carries the functions of waterproofing and giving the canvas additional rigidity.
Frame made of laminated laminated timber (does not work in the harshest climatic conditions).
A layer of extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 200 kg/m³.
Door lock type Multihela 4565, TrioVing Assa Abloy cylinder.

The frame and threshold are made of hardwood. Section 115×42 mm. There is an aluminum trim on the threshold. It is the rejection of the all-aluminum threshold and its replacement with one made of solid wood that provides a lower thermal break, which is ignored in traditional designs of entrance door frames. An elastic sealing contour is made both along the perimeter of the canvas and from the receiving part of the box.

The size range of canvases is based on a multiple of 100 mm in width and 10 mm in height. The main dimensions are 900×2100 and 1000×2100. Finnish companies also accept orders for the production of doors for non-standard openings. However, with proper organization of construction and repair processes, the likelihood of such a need is zero, especially if we take into account the possibility of filling the opening with side transoms (narrow additional sashes).

You should be careful when purchasing Finnish doors in domestic construction supermarkets. To reduce the price, sometimes original canvases are equipped with Russian, Belarusian or Chinese boxes without a lower thermal break and sometimes without a seal .

You should also not order Finnish doors with reinstallation of locks of a different design. It is better to use original ones, since, in addition to all their other advantages, they provide adjustment of the locking density. And this is important for adjusting the sealing contours.

Main manufacturers of Finnish doors

We choose warm Finnish doors from trusted manufacturers

Fenestra brand products were the first to hit the domestic market (since 2014 they have been produced under the Kaski brand). Some Finnish models, for example Fenestra ST2000, are jokingly called “people's Russian doors” by developers and sellers due to the stable (more than 20 years!) demand for them. In addition to Kaski, the brands EDUX and Jeld-Wen have earned the trust of consumers. The average price tag for their products is slightly lower than that of Kaski, with comparable design and quality. Jeld-Wen doors use veneer glued to HDF sheets. This is the only design difference from the Kaski and EDUX models.

Kaski, in addition to the standard thickness of 60 mm, has a thermo category with a blade of 86 mm. The purpose of this modification is to increase the thickness of the polystyrene foam insert. Thermo doors are significantly more expensive than the basic 60 mm models. Another feature of the brand is that high-tech and modern options are presented in an impressive number of designs. However, in model ranges All of the mentioned manufacturers provide solutions for the main types of individual development - archaic stone houses, log houses in the style of modern country minimalism, Victorian cottages with clinker brick cladding and laconic constructivist concrete “cubes”.

Ensuring thermal break during installation

Correct installation of input wooden doors The Arctic has some features associated with the exclusion of cold bridges. First, the horizontal surface of the floor in the opening is checked and, if necessary, leveled wooden plank, width less than the thickness of the door frame. The gap under the strip is carefully foamed (after installing the door). A layer of elastic material with insulating and waterproofing properties is placed on the plank. Typically, paraffin-impregnated mineral wool is used.

The box is installed using the traditional method. The only remark concerns the uniformity of the width of the mounting slots between the frame and the rough opening: you should try to ensure that the box does not rest against the opening anywhere, and that the slot is foamed around the entire perimeter without breaks.

Sooner or later you have to change your interior doors. The procedure is not so complicated that it is necessary to hire a specialist. If you have at least some skills in handling a saw, a level and a plumb line, you can tighten a few self-tapping screws - you can do it yourself. When replacing, before installing interior door, the old one needs to be dismantled. And here too there are peculiarities. About all the subtleties - in photos and videos with detailed instructions.

Interior doors are made from different materials. Moreover, the material of both the door leaf and frame is different. The door leaf is:

From fiberboard. These are the cheapest doors. Represent wooden frame, to which the laminated fiberboard is attached. They have low sound insulation, are susceptible to high humidity, and are easily damaged.
From MDF. They cost much more, but also quality characteristics much higher. They have better sound insulation, are not afraid of moisture, are stronger and more durable.
Wood. The most expensive doors. Made from different varieties wood - from pine to oak or more exotic species.

Door frames are also made from the same materials. The worst choice is that fiberboard boxes bend even under their own weight, and hanging the door leaf on them is a real pain. So try to take either MDF or wood. There is another material: laminated wood. It is good because it does not need to be processed or painted, but the service life depends on the quality of the film.

Dimensions and equipment

Interior doors are produced standard sizes, it’s just a pity that the standards are different countries are different. For example, in our country, swing doors are made 600 - 900 mm wide with a pitch of 100 mm. In some EU countries the rules are the same - in Germany, Italy and Spain. In France, others are standard. Here the narrowest doors are 690 mm and then in increments of 100 mm.

Is the difference really that important? If you want to change only the door leaf without the frame, then it is important - you will have to choose from your segment or completely change it along with the frame. There is a much greater choice of interior doors of the same standard as in our country, while in France there is much less choice.

What width of doors you need depends on where you are going to put them. If we talk about standards, the following values are recommended:

V living room width from 60 to 120 cm, height 2 m;
bathroom - width from 60 cm, height 1.9-2 m;
in the kitchen, the width of the door leaf is at least 70 cm, height 2 m.

If, when replacing a door, it is decided to make the opening larger/smaller, permission is not required for this, but it is necessary to remain within the limits specified for each room.

How to determine what width of doors to buy? Measure the door leaf you have and you will know what you need. If there are no doors, find the narrowest place in the opening, measuring it, you can find out how wide you need door block. This is a door leaf + door frame. So the outer dimensions of the door frame should be less than the measured value. For example, you got 780 mm, look for a block with parameters of 700 mm. Wider ones cannot be inserted into this opening.

The most complete set of interior doors - with frame, extensions and trims

When choosing a door, pay attention to the equipment. There are three types of assembly:

Door leaf. You buy the box separately.
Doors with frame. Everything is included, but the box is in the form of separate boards. You will have to file the corners and connect, hang the hinges yourself.
Door block. These are ready-to-install doors - the frame is assembled, the hinges are hung. Just cut the sidewalls to the height, align them evenly and secure them.

Even though the quality of the door leaf is the same, the prices for these kits differ significantly. But the difference in the time you spend on installation is significant.

Step-by-step installation of interior doors

In general, there are many subtleties. We will try to describe and illustrate the most common moments in photo or video material.

Step 1: Assembling the Door Frame

If you did not buy the door block assembled, the first thing you will have to do is assemble door frame. It consists of two long posts located on the sides, and one shorter crossbar at the top - the lintel.

Connection methods

There are at least two options for how to connect these planks to each other:

Regardless of exactly how you plan to connect the elements of the door frame, the first step is to cut down the pillars and lintels on one side. Then they are placed in a box on the floor, checking the correct connection. Next, you need to decide on the height of the side parts of the door frame.

Determining the dimensions

When folded, the required length is measured along the inside of the rack. The racks are not always made the same: the floor is often uneven and this must be taken into account. To do this, take a level and check how level the floor is. If it is perfectly level, the posts will be the same. If there is a deviation, it must be taken into account: make one of the racks longer. Usually this is a few millimeters, but this is also enough for the doors to warp.

When calculating the height, keep in mind that the racks should be 1-2 cm longer than the door leaf (including cuts). Make a 1 cm gap under the door if you are not planning to put a rug under it. If there is a rug/carpet/carpet, it is better to make it larger. Don't be afraid to leave gaps. They are necessary for. Please note once again: the height is measured along the inside of the door frame - from the bottom edge to the cut. Having cut it off, try on the racks in the doorway.

Now you need to saw off the lintel to length and, if necessary, saw on the other side (if the joint is at 45°). The length of the lintel should be such that when folded, the distance between the posts is greater than the width of the door leaf. The minimum gap is 7 mm, but more is often done. 7-8 mm are distributed as follows: 2 mm for hinges, and 2.5-3 mm for expansion gaps. Any interior doors - MDF, fiberboard, wood - change their dimensions depending on humidity. To accommodate these changes, clearances are required. And 5-6 mm is not always enough, especially during wet areas. For the bathroom, definitely leave a little more, otherwise in high humidity they may have difficulty opening.

So, we have decided on the minimum gaps when installing interior doors:

for hinges - 5-6 mm;
at the top, bottom and sides - 3 mm;
bottom - 1-2 cm.

After you have cut all the pieces and made the cuts, fold the box on the floor. If you notice any shortcomings in the connection somewhere, correct them using sandpaper, fixed on a block. The more accurate the match, the smaller the gap.

Assembly

Regardless of the material of the box and the connection method, holes are pre-drilled for the fasteners so that the material does not tear. The diameter of the drill is 1 mm less than the diameter of the screw.

The box is folded and the angles are set to 90°. Holding the stand and lintel in this position, drill holes with a drill. If there is an assistant, he can hold it. If you are working alone, temporarily secure the correctly aligned box with two cross bars - closer to the top and one at the bottom. This will help you avoid mistakes and make the correct connection.

If connected at an angle of 45°, make three holes on each side. Two on top - a centimeter away from the edge, and one on the side - in the center. In total, three screws are required for each connection. The direction of installation of self-tapping screws is perpendicular to the connection line.

If you connected at 90°, everything is simpler. Drill two holes from above, pointing the drill straight down.

Step 2: Inserting the hinges

Most often, 2 hinges are installed on interior doors, but 3 are possible. They are placed 200-250 mm away from the edge of the door leaf. If the frame and door leaf are made of wood, choose a place so that there are no knots. First, attach the hinges to the door leaf. The operating procedure is as follows:

We apply loops to the selected places and outline the contours. The easiest way to do this is with a finely sharpened pencil, but experts advise using a knife blade. This makes it more accurate and leaves smaller gaps.
If they have it, if not, take a chisel and select a material for the thickness of the loop. There is no need to make any more sampling, just for the thickness of the metal.
A loop is installed in the prepared recess. Its plane should be flush with the surface of the canvas.
The exposed loop is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Having secured two hinges, lay the door leaf in assembled box, set the correct gaps: on the hinge side - 5-6 mm, 3 mm on the opposite side and on top. Having set these gaps, the canvas is fixed using wedges. Place them exactly in the horizontal and vertical planes (you can use pads if necessary).

After setting, mark the locations of the mating parts of the loops. Sometimes it is more convenient to remove an already installed hinge and then install it in place. A notch is also made according to the markings. Depth - so that the surface of the hinge is flush with the surface of the door frame.

DIY door hanging is described in detail in the video.

Step 3: Installing the Door Frame

The assembled box must be correctly inserted into the opening. This is a very responsible task. Before installing an interior door, knock down everything in the opening that could fall off. If the wall is too loose, the surface is treated with primers deep penetration with an astringent effect. If there are too large holes, they are sealed with plaster; very large protrusions are trimmed off. It is easier to insert an interior door into the prepared opening. If this is your first time doing this on your own, make the job easier for yourself.

The box is displayed without the door leaf. It is oriented strictly vertically. Verticality is checked not only by level, but also by plumb line. The level often gives an error, so it is more reliable to check with a plumb line.

To prevent the box from becoming warped during installation, install temporary spacers on the floor and bevels in the corners which give a high degree of rigidity. In order for the doors to open, they are inserted in the same plane with the wall. This is the only way it will open completely. If the wall is uneven, place the box not along the wall, but vertically. Otherwise there will be problems with opening or closing the door.

How to insert an interior door with your own hands - in the same plane as the wall

Once the position is selected, you can secure it. This is done using mounting wedges - triangular wooden or plastic bars. First, wedges are placed on both sides of the lintel - crossbars, then above the racks. In this way, the position of the box relative to the doorway is selected and fixed. Next, the verticality of the racks is checked again. They are checked in two planes so that they are not tilted forward or backward.

Then install the wedges at the bottom, then after about 50-60 cm, checking that the racks are exactly level. The crossbar is also wedged in the middle. Check whether the elements of the box are bent somewhere, and correct if necessary. You can start fastening.

Step 4: Attaching the Box to the Doorway

There are also two mounting methods: through directly to the wall and with mounting plates. If the wall allows and you are not afraid of the fastener caps in the box, you can attach it all the way through. It's reliable.

To install interior doors, it is enough to screw two self-tapping screws into the cutouts for the hinges and, on the other hand, under the plate of the lock's counterpart. Additional holes are drilled in the cutouts. They are made so as not to fall into the holes for fastening the hinges or mating part. Make sure that the head of the screws is recessed and does not interfere with the installation of the hinges and lining.

Installation of interior doors according to this diagram is shown in the video. There are also several interesting nuances about exposing the door frame.

If such a quantity of fasteners seems unreliable, drill through and cover the holes with decorative washers matched to match. Or there is also a special molding made of MDF with removable slats. The fastener is installed in the prepared groove and then closed with a strip.

The second method is secret, the fasteners are not visible. First, the mounting plates are attached to the back of the box. In principle, it can be used for plasterboard, but there are also special ones that are thicker, although when installing interior doors, plasterboard ones will suffice.

Step 5: Foaming

After all the gaps are set and the wedges are installed, the gaps between the frame and the wall are filled with polyurethane foam. For better polymerization, the wall is moistened with water from a spray bottle. Then squeeze out the foam, filling no more than 2/3. Too much a large number of foam may cause the box to blow inward. So don't overdo it.

To ensure that the doors are not warped by the foam, spacers are installed. But if you don't overdo it with foam, nothing should happen.

Spacers for fixing the frame - when installing the interior door this way, the frame should stand level

After the foam has polymerized ( exact time indicated on the cylinder), remove the spacers, hang the door leaf and check the operation of the door. Next come Finishing work: and platbands, if necessary - additions.

You know how to install an interior door with your own hands. There is nothing overly complicated, but we tried to describe the main nuances. There is a lot of useful information in the video - these are recommendations from practitioners.

Follow the instructions, be precise with measurements and check the results. Please read the instructions carefully before proceeding with installation. The external door is intended primarily for use as an entrance door in private homes year-round residence, mansions and townhouses, in buildings where thermal insulation qualities are required.

It is strictly forbidden to install doors in a house under construction or in a room where wet work is being carried out (for example, concreting a floor, pouring screed, etc.). Excessive moisture can cause wood to warp and paint to peel. In addition, the fittings, including the lock body, may become rusty.

ATTENTION! When installing entrance doors in the cold season, you must use certified mounting foams, specifically designed for use with low temperatures- information with specific recommendations for use is usually printed on the cylinder by the manufacturer.

Always install moisture barrier (bitumen strip, etc.) between the horizontal base and the threshold.

Never install the box directly on a concrete floor or screed! Use, for example, bitumen strip, etc.

Doors should be installed in places with a sufficiently long roof overhang or canopy over the door, which will protect the door surface from moisture and sunlight.

When determining the size of the canopy, you should be guided by the following formula: the width of the canopy D must be at least half of the height of the canopy (the distance from the bottom of the door to the bottom of the canopy, see diagram).

Entrance door installation steps:

Stage 1

Check that the base under the threshold is horizontal.

Install the ebb in the mounting opening and place the assembled box on it

Coat the seam with sealing compound.

Low tide can be installed later. In this case, bring the ebb tide under the threshold

and glue it, installing the ebb in the groove intended for it in the threshold.

Stage 2

Secure the box in the mounting opening using wedges, inserting them above the box's mounting holes so that the side of the box with hinges is exactly vertical (both parallel and prependicular to the wall plane). Use two wedges for each mounting hole in the box, insert one wedge from the outside, the other from the inside. Use a spirit level to check that the box is level.

Make sure there is enough space around the perimeter of the box for the seal

and secure the hinge side of the box to the wall with mounting screws.

Stage 3

Install anti-burglary pins in the door. Do not screw them all the way in, leave a margin of 10mm. Hang the door leaf on its hinges.

Tighten the anti-burglary pins until they are tight, install and tighten the hinge mounting screws.

Stage 4

Make sure the threshold is set horizontally. Align the side of the box with the lock strike plate exactly (both parallel and prependicular to the plane of the wall). Secure the box to the wall with mounting screws.

Stage 5

To adjust the door height, use a hex key. Before adjusting the door to the side, loosen the anti-burglary pins and mounting screws. Adjust to the side using the adjusting screw provided for this purpose. After adjustment, tighten the anti-burglary pins and mounting screws as far as possible.

Adjusting the hinges of the Jeld-Wen entrance door

Blade position outer door can be adjusted in height and horizontally using the hinge adjustment.

This is especially true, for example, when shrinking a house.

Height adjustment

Tools required: 5 mm hex wrench.

Door adjustment up

Loosen the upper adjusting screw (1) on all hinges by turning it with a hexagon 2-3 turns.
By turning the adjusting screws (2) on the bottom of the hinges, set the door to the desired height position.
Be sure to tighten the screws on all hinges an equal number of turns to evenly distribute the weight of the door on the hinges.
Tighten the retaining screws on top of all hinges (1).

Door adjustment down

Loosen the lower adjusting screw (2) on all hinges except one by 2-3 turns.
By turning the screw (2) of the remaining hinge counterclockwise, lower the door to the desired height.
Tighten the adjustment screws (2) of the remaining hinges to the same position to evenly distribute the weight of the door across all hinges.
Finally, tighten the upper adjustment screws (1) without excessive force.

Horizontal door adjustment

Tools required: 5 mm hexagon, Phillips screwdriver.

Increasing the distance between the door and the door frame on the hinge side

Tighten the adjusting screws (4) on one of the hinges so that the door leaf is in the desired position. .
Tighten the adjustment screws (4) on the second hinge (on the remaining hinges) to level the door leaf and distribute the weight of the door evenly.

Reducing the distance between the door and the door frame on the hinge side

Loosen the mounting screws (3) and the anti-removal pin (5) on all hinges by 2-3 turns.
Loosen the adjusting screws (4) on one of the hinges so that the door leaf is in the desired position. .
Loosen the adjustment screws (4) on the second hinge (on the remaining hinges) to level the door leaf and distribute the weight of the door evenly.
Carefully tighten the screws (3) and anti-removal pins (5).

Stage 6

Does the door close tightly?

The closing tightness can be adjusted using adjustments in the strike plate.

Stage 7

Carefully seal the gap between the wall and the frame, filling it mineral wool. Then coat the gap with a sealing elastic mass to vapor-waterproof the seam. Do not use polyurethane foam, because when it expands, it can deform the door frame and complicate possible subsequent door adjustments.

Instructions for servicing external doors

Painted products

The products are painted with moisture-resistant paints that meet the requirements for resistance to scratches, wear resistance and appearance surfaces that can withstand exposure to many household chemicals, grease and solvents.

Cleaning

Use regular ones detergents(non-alkaline), such as dishwashing liquid. To clean mold, use special mold removers. Do not use detergents that may scratch or dissolve the painted surface. Avoid, for example, the use of solvents, abrasive powders, metal fiber sponges, etc. Wet the surface from bottom to top, but wash it from top to bottom. Otherwise, streaks from drips may appear on the door. Wipe dry.

Service

Normal cleaning is usually sufficient unless the door is damaged or abnormally worn. To maintain shine, however, it is recommended, after washing, to rub the door surfaces, for example, with car wax.

Touch up

It is best to touch up minor damage with a brush and alkyd or acrylate enamel of a suitable color and gloss level, intended for outdoor use. First check the compatibility of the paint with the original painting material on a small surface, e.g. small area on the edge of the door on the hinge side.

Product quality and warranty conditions for Jed-Wen doors

Jeld-Wen manufactures its products in accordance with the requirements of the unified European standard CE.

What is CE?

The CE mark is a guarantee to the consumer that a given product complies with the essential requirements of a European harmonized standard and can therefore be legally placed on the market.

CE marking has long been mandatory on products such as toys and electronics, but Lately, this unified standard is established for certain building materials.

What does this mean for the consumer?

All CE marked products carry product data in the format specified in the Declaration of Performance (DoP), which allows clear and easy comparisons between similar products and provides the consumer with necessary information to make an informed decision.

The DoP provides key information on the performance characteristics of construction products that have been independently tested and certified by an EU body.

All products subject to these Directives are required to be marked with the CE mark, either on the product itself or on its packaging - the CE logo and a number which indicates the relevant DoP.

Non-compliance of the product with the requirements of the CE standard in terms of curvature of the canvas or frame is considered a warranty defect.

We apologize if you encountered a defect in JELD-WEN products! If you find a defect, please contact us and provide your order number. Please note that a defective product cannot be installed or used!

How to measure whether a door leaf is curved?

Place the door leaf on a flat horizontal surface

Measure the distance between the central part of the door leaf and the surface on which it is located (mm)

Allowed curvature of up to 5 mm per door leaf

How to measure if a door frame is warped?

Curvature towards the wall

Place the box (flat) on a horizontal, flat surface so that the ends of the box touch the ground.

The allowed curvature of the box in the direction of the wall is 3 mm / per 1 meter (i.e. for a box with a height of 20M and 21M 6 mm per vertical of the box.

Curvature towards the edge of the box

Place the box on its side on a flat, horizontal surface with the ends of the box touching the surface.

Measure the gap between the center of the box and the surface (mm).

The allowed curvature of the box in the direction of the edge is 1.5 mm / per 1 meter (i.e. for a box with a height of 20M and 21M up to 3 mm per one of its verticals)

We are not responsible for product defects resulting from normal wear and tear, improper storage, installation and operation.