Corner connection of profiled timber. Connecting timber in corners and straight walls Methods for knitting corners from timber

Corner joints of timber are little different from laying corners of a log lady. But not everyone encounters such work every day, and hiring construction team not during assembly bigger house or not everyone wants a bath. So the question arises, how to fold correctly corner connections from timber without the use of special fastening angles and with them? We will answer it in this article.

Connecting corners to build a house made of timber is divided into:

1. Angle with remainder.
2. Angle without remainder

Each of the options is divided into different options according to the method of forming the angle.

Laying in a corner with the remainder

The corner connections of the house with the remainder are also called “in oblo”. The design of the unit is key, it can be assembled in several types:

1. One-sided.
2. Two-way.
3. Quadrilateral.

One-sided corner connection

The design of the unit consists of a notch, which is made transversely in each beam. The width of the groove corresponds to the width of the beam. The groove is located at the top. This connection option is used for all types of timber, but is more common with profiled timber. It is easier to connect profiled timber in a one-sided way due to the specifics of its design.

Two-way corner connection

The design consists of two cuts from the top and bottom of the beam. The depth of the cut is equal to 1/4 of the thickness of the building material used in the house. It is convenient to make such a connection for profiled, glued and edged materials. But it is better to cut it from specialists, as accuracy is needed.

Four-way corner connection

To increase the strength of the house, a four-way connection is used. In such a unit, cuts are made on four sides. Laying the links of such a cut is as convenient as a Lego set, since the crowns stack transversely on top of each other.

All four options are suitable for both simple and profiled timber.

Corner laying without residue

To get even corners of the house, that is, without any remaining links (“in the paw”), use the following types:

1. Butt
2. With a root thorn.
3. Using dowels.

Butt angle

This connection is one of the simplest and makes it possible to work with timber without damaging it. For such a connection, construction fasteners are used. ABOUT .

When laying, the ends of the beams are folded together and secured using metal spiked plates with nails, staples or corners. Special metal mounting angles, which are convenient for fastening T-shaped corners. The use of metal corners makes work easier and reduces installation time at home. But this method is risky, since apart from fastening the links together, nothing holds them together. Therefore, it is important when laying that the ends of the beams are smooth and geometrically correct, without chips or bends. Only in this way can the tightness of the corner be achieved.

Working with corners significantly reduces time, but they must be selected according to the size of the beam section. It is not recommended to fasten profiled or glued beams with corners, as they will be visible and you will have to finish the walls.

But even accuracy does not guarantee and will not protect the timber from lateral loads and airflow. Therefore, this corner of the house needs to be additionally insulated.

For the construction of a bathhouse or larger cottage This method is not recommended. In the first case there is high heat loss, in the second it takes a long time to add additional insulation.

Angle using dowels

The key is formed from durable types of wood. In the assembly it takes the place of the liner in the sawn grooves. The grooves are made in advance. The key holds the two beams and prevents them from moving relative to each other.

The key may have different shape: longitudinal, transverse and oblique. The type of its fastening in the node depends on the design. Making an oblique fastening yourself is difficult, but quality characteristics this method ranks first.

Angle "to the root tenon"

The “root tenon” fastening is used more often than others. A knot is formed from a groove and a rectangular profile, which are cut out at the ends of the beam. There can be from 1 to 5 grooves and tenons. But what more complex design“into the root thorn”, the less durable it is. Before cutting, you need to carefully calculate all cuts.

When laying in a groove, additional insulation made of jute or flax fiber is used. This type of fastening is also called a “warm corner”. Since the complexity of the design makes the structure windproof and in the case of profiled timber there is no need for additional insulation.

To give the structure for the construction of a house made of laminated veneer lumber greater strength, wooden dowels are driven into the end. It is convenient in such cases to use a round section. You shouldn’t work with metal ones; when they dry out they will become visible. It is also advisable to use mounting angles here. They will strengthen the structure.

When working with corners made of timber, dowels, fat tails, and undercuts are used. When laying, a small gap is formed in the groove, which will provide free movement timber during shrinkage. If this gap is not provided, then in the future, when shrinking, the walls may warp.

Of course, the formation of gaps will increase the working time, but it will protect the timber house from undesirable consequences.

Features of laying profiled timber

When choosing a corner connection for building a house from profiled timber, the choice always stops at the “warm corner” view. This type of knot includes: “with a root spike”, “ dovetail"and with the help of dowels. We have already talked about the first and last. But let's look at the dovetail.

Dovetail connection

A special inclined groove and tenon with exact dimensions are cut out at the ends. As a result, the connection is strong and heat loss is minimal. But the castle doesn’t spoil appearance facade walls and rooms.

The main stages of installation “in a warm corner”:

Before cutting, you need to apply markings. For convenience, there are special metal corners- stencils.

After marking, a tenon and groove are cut out using a saw. Then the elements are combined into a “warm corner”. Jute or other insulation is laid inside.

« Warm corner» strengthened with metal or wooden dowels. You can use mounting angles from the inside; they will add rigidity to the structure. When installing such a connection, it is important to alternate the tongue and groove in each row, otherwise the wall will not look aesthetically pleasing and the corner will not be strong.

The popularity of laying “in a warm corner” is explained by the advantages of the design:

• Since the profiled material has precise shapes, the angle is windproof and reliable.
• Since fastening occurs due to the lock, then additional use no corners or nails needed. And this reduces costs.
• The shrinkage field of the profiled timber will not change the angle and the material will not crack.
• There is no protruding material that complicates the exterior finishing.
• Tightness. Due to the design, the corner is sealed.

Of course, there are two main advantages when laying it out in a warm corner: you can cut out the groove and profile only by hand, and the price of such a fastening. For example in major cities The average cost for drinking and laying it “in a warm corner” costs from 1200 rubles. But you can save money by ordering sawing from the manufacturer or purchasing a ready-made kit.

Comfort and comfortable conditions The life of a private house, first of all, involves long-term heat retention, which is possible only with complete tightness, sufficient thickness of the walls of the structure and high-quality insulation. While everything is more or less clear with thermal insulation and the dimensions of the material, not everyone knows how to ensure that there are no gaps and cracks through which cold and drafts can enter the home. A warm angle, which means a tight joining of the crowns of the timber, is a technology that allows you to maintain the necessary heat as much as possible.

What it is?

A warm corner is special method corner connection using a tongue-and-groove system. If the parameters are correctly followed, the corner turns out to be sealed, and “cold bridges” are not observed in it. Of course, the tree is sawn in such a way that all the parts fit tightly together. The pressure of the crowns is added to this, and as a result the structure becomes more stable and reliable. Based on this, the main requirements for creating a reliable seal are as follows:

• during construction, the strength of the structure largely depends on total mass timber and roofing structures. We must not forget that the operation of such a building is associated with the impact of many factors on the timber: wind, temperature changes, precipitation. Dimensional changes are also associated with shrinkage; damp wood deforms faster. This is why it is important to build a house from natural material with humidity no more than 20%;
• The second condition affecting the quality of the warm corner is the optimal fit of all protrusions and recesses for a perfect connection.

Thereby timber house will keep warm even in winter period and will be protected from freezing and drafts.

In the future, the warm corner can be additionally insulated with such traditional materials, like flax, jute, wool felt and even moss. This will compensate for the volume of the timber during swelling, drying out, and will prevent rotting or mold development.

Benefits of technology

The method of such a connection as a warm corner, in fact, has a significant impact on various aspects of construction and operation, namely:

• with high-quality assembly, the junction of the corners of the walls is so strong that you can do without inter-crown insulation;
• a building erected using this technology is not threatened by force loads and impacts in the form of soil movement or earthquakes, since it is strengthened several times;
• this method eliminates such unpleasant moments as corrosion, fungus, mold, and the penetration of insects into the interior;
• significantly reduced costs for fasteners, since these fittings are irrelevant for fastenings with residue;
• timbers prepared in advance with grooves and tenons cut into them allow for quick assembly.

Kinds

A warm corner ennobles the outer and internal view structure, since its walls are free of irregularities and unnecessary protrusions. To make a high-quality warm corner, you need to consider different methods cutting joints, which have their own characteristics, however, they have the same fastening mechanism.

The main types of joining are connecting timber with and without rest, and each of them has several options.

Styling with remainder

Such connections are called “in oblo”. It has two main advantages - high level sealing, as well as joint strength without fixation. This lock system design provides different types joints

1. Unilateral The key groove is a transverse notch in each bar, and its width corresponds to the same parameter of the bar. It is located at the top and is most often applied to profiled wood, as it fits perfectly into its structure. The grooves are made straight and square shape. In some cases, it is allowed to secure the connection using dowels.
2. More difficult is two way connection. For this, the timber is sawed from the top and bottom side by 1/4 thickness. Double fixation makes the structure more durable, which completely eliminates displacement. An indispensable requirement is a smooth wood structure with no defects in the form of cracks and knots.
3. Quadruple the connection is the most reliable in terms of sealing, but it has a more complex preparation of the beams, so it is used quite rarely.

Joints without residue

Cost-effectiveness is the main advantage of this technology, while the end parts of the timber do not protrude from the walls. However, there are also disadvantages of such a connection - it is less durable than with other joining methods.

There are several options for obtaining even corners of a log house.

• Half a Tree- this is a joining in which the beams from one and the other wall are cut down to 50% of their thickness, after which these cuts must be fixed with dowels, because such a connection is quite weak. In this case, caulking is applied later. In the paw - this is a similar method, which is distinguished by more complex work with the preparation of the material, due to which the quality of the connection is higher and more durable.
• Connection with dowels, which are produced only from hard and durable wood. They perform the task of inserting in the grooves. In fact, they are used to fasten the beams together at the side and end. This joining promotes a tight fit and prevents any displacement. These spare parts can have any shape - oblique, longitudinal and transverse. Dovetail dowels are especially relevant. Unfortunately, it is difficult to make them yourself, because this requires a special machine.

• The simplest is a warm corner. end-to-end, and there is no need to cut the timber. The ends of the material are fixed in a checkerboard pattern using squares, staples, clamps or metal plates with nails. Bonding occurs along the length. If damp building materials are used, it is extremely difficult to avoid deformation, therefore, as a rule, careful insulation of the gaps is required in the future. You can do the work yourself, but it is better to use dry wood.
• The most common fastening is in the root thorn. When all the necessary cuts are precisely calculated, and there can be quite a lot of them, since up to 5 grooves and tenons are used, then this design is the most reliable and stable. Simultaneously with the connection, linen or jute insulation is placed in the grooves. This prevents blowing and no additional protection is required.

Direct and longitudinal connections also occur in practical construction, but in most cases they represent more complex shapes fastenings that require a lot of time and materials.

Direct joining is often carried out in the main tenon or involves connecting the longitudinal beam end-to-end using dowels. The oblique lock, in general, is rarely used, since it is unprofitable in all respects.

Longitudinal fastening is carried out using tongues, usually birch, and high demands are placed on them - defects such as delamination, knots are simply unacceptable, besides wood fibers in these hardware should be located only parallel to the axis. Qualified craftsmen, of course, can carry out such work, but does this make sense when there are simpler and better types of warm corners?

When cutting a warm corner, you should take into account some of the subtleties of the process and the problems associated with it.

• Since the connection technology already makes the house warm, you should not leave large gaps in the corners for later caulking. Their size should not exceed 0.5 cm.
• You can caulk corners after several years of use. If the seams have become wider due to shrinkage of the timber, it is worth keeping in mind that sometimes they can narrow (when they swell, when humidity is high).
• Nails and dowels are not used using technology with residue; moreover, their use is a violation of the joining rules.

Connecting timber into a so-called “warm corner” is the basis of the entire assembly technology timber houses. Understanding the technology, accurate markings and a reliable tool in strong hands is the key good result work.

Tool

Let's start the description of this technology with a list of tools that will be needed in the work. The basic set includes the following:

1. Roulette. A 7-meter length is enough, because the timber is supplied in 6-meter lengths.

2. Construction pencil.

3. Metal square 25-30cm.

4. Chainsaw. In our opinion, it is more convenient and mobile on construction site work with a gasoline saw. When working with an electric saw, you always have to keep an eye on the cord, which distracts your attention a little and limits your actions.

Addition: All our teams use a trusted model in their work chain saw Stihl MS 180. The model is very popular, so in order not to overpay or purchase fakes, it is better to buy it from official dealers. If you do not buy it from an official store, check the authenticity of the saw.

6. Chisel

In addition to this set, the following will not be superfluous:

7. Hand circular saw

8. Wood saw with fine teeth.

9. Template made of wooden board/plywood or metal sheet or prefabricated. Here, everyone’s ingenuity and imagination work differently, so there are a huge variety of options for executing templates. The main thing is to understand that a well-fitted template greatly facilitates and speeds up the work of marking the timber.

Theory

In our work, we are guided by this scheme for connecting timber into a “warm corner”. According to it, a groove 50 mm wide and 55 mm deep is cut in one beam, and a tenon 40 mm wide and 55 mm deep is prepared in the other. Thanks to this size, when joining the timber, we have a 5 mm seam left for laying jute/caulk.

We usually assemble a crown of beams, fasten them with wooden dowels, and then use a chisel from top to bottom to caulk the seams between the beams.

But this is not the only option. You can lay a strip of jute along one beam, and then insert another beam with a tenon into the groove. This way, the jute will fill all the seams in the corner joint.

There is also an opinion that caulking should only be done at the joint of the beams on the street side. In such cases there is no need to leave seams between the tongue and groove. For a tight fit, the groove is 40x45mm in size, and the tenon is 40x50mm in size.

Be that as it may, our company is of the opinion that the entire contour of the junction of two beams in a corner joint should be insulated.

Marking

First of all, the beams are marked for trimming. This is done using a metal square. The required length of the beam is measured with a tape measure and a horizontal line is drawn on the upper side of the beam with a construction pencil using a square. From it, vertical lines are marked along the sides of the beam. Then the coincidence of the lines is checked from below. From these lines the positions of the grooves and tenons are measured and drawn. It is more convenient to do this by attaching a pre-prepared template.

Sawing grooves and tenons

After the final marking, it’s time to take up the chain saw. But first, let’s stop and evaluate our strengths, and think about how we can make the cuts more accurately.

Unfortunately, not everyone is given the freedom to operate a chain saw. Some people have to master this skill for a long time, while others get it the first time. But for some people this is simply not possible. If you are comfortable with a chain saw, and everything is fine with an eye, then there is no need to explain much. Just guide the blade with the chain along the marked lines and you're done.

A chain saw can do everything in the right hands: cut out grooves and tenons, trim the ends, clean off the profiles of the beams in the corners. A typical example of professional handling of a chainsaw, allowing high-quality cutting in a “warm corner” without the use of additional tools:

The basic rules here are simple:

Guide the saw so that the blade does not follow the line, but along it. Then the marking line will always be visible, which will allow you to be sure of the accuracy of the cut.

When trimming a beam, you must first make short cuts along the lines on three sides of the beam, and then cut along them to the end.

If you are not sure, make a short cut along the line, and then cut to the end.

It’s another matter when you don’t have such confidence in your hands as in the video presented. Then it’s better to cut out the groove circular saw and clean it up with a chisel/axe. As a last resort, you can first make cuts with a regular hacksaw to guide the chain, and then continue cutting along them with a chain saw.

Main errors/jambs

The most important note here is that there are no nails in the corner joint. They are not needed here under any circumstances.

For timber 150x150mm, a tenon measuring no more than 50x50mm is quite sufficient. Many shabatniks, not understanding the essence, cut thorns almost halfway through the tree. Not only is this not advisable and not rational. Arises Great chance splitting off a tenon from the main body of timber.

The corner connection must necessarily have a small (around 0.5 cm) gap for the caulking. Seams bigger size immediately signal the low qualifications of the performer.

It is written above about the tight joining of the tenon into the groove - we leave gaps, but many consider this unnecessary.

Corner finishing

A timber house has a shrinkage of 7%. Plus, timber with natural moisture has the ability to warp over time. As a result, some seams in timber joints may become wider, while others may become narrower.

After a year or two, all timber connections will have to be additionally caulked, and for additional protection from blowing and the aesthetics of the facade, they will have to be covered with corner strips.

One of the main stages of building a house with your own hands from timber or rounded logs is raising - erecting a log house. Before you begin practice (construction), you must know how to connect timber, otherwise the consequences can be disastrous.

The need for connection arises in two circumstances:

• When cutting a corner of a house
• When lengthening a beam or log - when the length is not enough (sometimes, for example, someone cut it to length).

Depending on what is needed, different methods are used, so I will try to clearly show the main methods of connecting timber and rounded logs.

The methods of connecting beams during the construction of a log house are significantly different from the joints of logs. More from ancient Rus' V wood construction, built from logs, since then centuries of experience in connecting corners and joints have been accumulated. But this is the 21st century and ancient techniques are gradually acquiring their modified analogues, so first of all I want to introduce you to the technique of laying beams, and we will disassemble the log later.

Types of beam corner connections

Nowadays, two connection methods are practiced in wooden construction:

• With the remainder (“to the oblo”, “to the bowl”)
• Without a trace (“in the paw”, “in the tooth”).

The corner connection of a log, as well as with a beam, is made in two types, as “into the paw” or “into the bowl”, that is, without a remainder or with a remainder.

Connecting the corners of the timber with the remainder “into the bowl”

The bars are connected into the bowl using four locking grooves, which can be of several types:

• One-liners
• Bilateral
• Quadrilateral.

With this type of connection, a perpendicular groove in the form of a notch is made in each beam on one side - usually the top. The notch must match the width of the beam perpendicular to the cross-section.
Most house-building companies use this technology to connect profiled timber, because fastening in this way requires a minimum of effort and time.

The double-sided groove lock technology means cuts on both sides of the beam, i.e. up and down. The depth of the perpendicular cut is approximately 1/4 of the height of the beam. A high-quality connection, but it requires a lot of experience from carpenters in order to prevent cracks or chips when cutting the groove and installing the beam.

When making a four-sided locking groove, a groove is cut out on all sides of the profiled beam. This fastening option will allow you to achieve greater strength of the log house. The cuts on all sides simplify the construction of the log house - the crowns fit like a construction set. Connecting corners in this way greatly increases reliability. Requires high skill of carpenters.

Beam connections are made in the following options:

• Butt-butt
• On dowels
• On the root spines.
• Wood floor
• Dovetail

The simplest and fastest type of timber connection is the butt connection. We simply connect them to each other and secure them with studded steel plates, which are driven in with nails or staples. The tightness of the corner connection and strength is highly dependent on the level of experience of the carpenter. It is necessary to perfectly fit the ends of the joined beams - A very flat surface is needed. But, alas, even experienced people like me don’t always cope. The corner turns out to be poorly sealed and subject to periodic perpendicular loads.

This type of connection is the fastest in construction, but the worst in quality. I advise you better not to use such technology, you won’t end up with problems. Heat loss through such a “butt” angle is too great to save time and effort on more complex types connections.

When connecting beams using dowels, a wedge made of hardwood is used to strengthen the corner. Installing a key in the grooves of the beams helps prevent movement of the joints of the connected beams. It is also worth noting that the strength depends on the type of key: transverse, longitudinal or oblique - an oblique one is difficult to create, but in return an excellent result, a strong corner with low thermal conductivity.

Connecting timber into a root tenon (“Warm corner”) - this type of joining the corner of beams is effective, heat-intensive and very common in the construction of houses made of profiled timber. The trick lies in the following: a groove is cut out in one of the connecting beams, and a tenon of a size suitable for the groove is cut out on the other beam. During construction, inter-crown insulation is placed in the groove, which can be flax-jute fabric or vegetable felt. It is important that the joint between the tongue and groove is tight to minimize heat loss. And also for the strength of the structure, the rows of beams alternate with tenons and grooves, and a round wooden dowel (dowel) is driven into place.

You can see the connection of the timber into a warm corner in detail in the video below:

See the diagram for preliminary calculations for marking cuts for corner joints

When using dowels (dowels), fat tails, undercuts and other tenon-to-groove joints in corner joints, it is very important to provide mandatory vertical gaps between the groove and the tenon. This is necessary to compensate for the inevitable shrinkage of the log house.

Another type of corner cutting that I want to consider is the “half-tree” connection - a type of fastening whose name has stuck among carpenters thanks to cutting half the width of the beam. The same as previous assembly options timber log house It begins with drilling holes for dowels (dowels) in places near the corner joints; the length of the dowel must be calculated so that it is enough for several beams. There is also a more modified version of this connection - adding a key to the joints of the beams to increase the strength of the corner connection, as well as for greater heat capacity

And finally, the most durable and reliable and with minimal heat losses is the dovetail beam connection. Almost the same as the “root tenon”, but here the tenon is sawed into a trapezoidal shape. The connections with this groove are given a similar shape.

It has a type of horizontal dovetail-to-foot connection - in which horizontal trapezoidal notches are sawn through the timber, which should fit perfectly with each other - it is quite rare in the construction of houses or bathhouses from timber due to the complexity of sawing and for most clients this type of fastening is not I like it purely from an aesthetic point of view. In my construction practice, clients have only asked for such an angle a couple of times. By the way it turned out well.
T-shaped types of beam connections to create interior walls houses are embodied using the following connections:

• Key groove on a tenon
• Symmetrical trapezoidal tenon - frying pan
• Rectangular trapezoidal tenon - half frying pan
• Symmetrical trapezoidal tenon - blind frying pan
• Straight groove on the main tenon.

You can clearly see in the figure how T - figurative connections internal walls:

Click to enlarge

Longitudinal connection techniques

During construction big house, usually if the length exceeds 6 m (standard length of profiled timber) you have to longitudinally connect two beams to increase the length.

In this case, I advise you to use one of the following types of beam connections.

• Oblique castle.
• Longitudinal tenon on dowels
• Half a tree
• Longitudinal root tenon

Fastening the beams together along the length using a tenon on dowels is quite strong. The use of this type of connection involves cutting identical grooves at the ends of the connecting beams. The sawn beams are installed back to back, and a hardwood key is driven into the groove, which firmly holds both joining beams together.

A key is an insert (wedge) that secures two elements of the structure being connected. Dowels are made of metal or hardwood and come in rectangular, prismatic and dovetail, smooth and serrated.

Longitudinal fastening in a half-tree is similar to the connection of corners in a “half-tree” - the ends of the connecting beams are sawn to the width equal to half timber thickness. The strength of the fastening is increased by fastening with a dowel (you can also fasten with a staple, nails, mounting plate). Of course, this is a simple and quick type of fastening, but its strength is not sufficient for load-bearing walls houses made of timber. I don't recommend it.

“Longitudinal root tenon” connection - a groove is made at one end of the beam and a tenon at the other. The fastening is similar to connecting the corners to the main tenon. For greater strength, I advise sawing the groove and tenon in a trapezoidal shape - dovetail. This will eliminate horizontal vibrations of the fixed beams.

Increasing a long beam using a “bias lock” connection is one of the most difficult techniques for carpenters, but in terms of strength and stability it is far ahead of the beam connections described above. Typically, construction companies are silent about such fastenings so as not to bother their teams of carpenters. The figure below shows the implementation diagram:

Methods for joining logs when cutting a log house.

• With the remainder
• Without a trace.

Cutting a log house without leaving any residue means that the ends of the logs do not protrude into the joint, but are even with the wall. In turn, cutting a log house with the remainder assumes that the ends of the logs protrude beyond the boundary of the wall. Of course, cutting with residue is more expensive in terms of material consumption. Because the log or beam has to be laid 0.3 -0.5 m longer than when joining without residue. But this is compensated by greater heat capacity, protection from climatic misfortunes (rain, wind) and with such felling the log house turns out to be more stable. Let's take a closer look at both types:

Connection with remainder

At the connection with the remainder there are three types of felling:

• In the oblo "in the bowl"
• In the heat of the moment
• In a huff.

Connecting the corners of a log house into a bowl is the most common and simplest type. The method is that a bowl is cut out of a log (previously it was cut down, but nowadays carpenters are using axes less and less in construction; a chainsaw takes over). Then we put a transverse log in this bowl and cut out the next bowl (oblo) in it, and so on in the cycle.

Corner joints of logs “in the oblo” are done as follows:

• Half a tree
• Oval ridge
• In the fat tail.

Half a tree - easy to connect. To achieve stability of fastening, a longitudinal groove is made in the crown. We pre-fill the groove with insulation.

How to connect two logs? During the assembly of the log house, in addition to fastening them in the corners, they are also secured with dowels. Dowels can be cut pieces of reinforcement, shovel cuttings, and some craftsmen use mop cuttings. Fastening with dowels is necessary for additional vertical stability.

Oval comb - fastening with a remainder, here a small ridge is made on the bottom of the bowl oval shape, it is important that it accurately follows the shape of the laying groove. In this option, the longitudinal groove is cut not from the top but from the bottom of the log.

Detailed video about the technology of building a house from timber in examples:

The fat tail is more technically complex. A small protrusion (tail fat) is cut out at the bottom of the bowl, which is placed along the crown and across the bowl. In turn, a recess is cut out on the lower part, which coincides in shape with the protrusion (see picture:)

In the oblo - this type of connection is almost the same as what we described above (“in the oblo”). The only difference is that the bowl is cut from above, and not on the lower part of the crown. The name oklop appeared because of the characteristic clap when rolling a log into a prepared corner.

The joints in the okhryap are more technically complex than all the previous ones: here, notches are made on the upper and lower sides of the log. It’s difficult to explain in words, better see the picture below.

Joining logs without residue

In the paw - this is almost the same connection as “in the okhryap”, but from the sawn end part of the log. This is how you get an angle without a remainder. The strength of the fastening is increased by dowels and cutting out a tenon with a groove - cut. This type of connection is characterized by poor wind resistance; changing the rectangular cutout into a trapezoidal one will help save you from this - it turns out to be a “dovetail”. (picture below)

When building a house and a bathhouse from timber, two main types of corner connections are used. This is cutting the corners of the walls "half a tree" And "to a warm corner" or another way "tongue and groove" These are the types of connections we will talk about:

Connection type “Warm corner”

Connection in "Warm Corner" - this type of corner connection is reliable, effective and has long been used in low-rise construction of timber houses, bathhouses and other wooden buildings.

The essence of the method is as follows: in one of the mating bars inside A tenon of a certain size is cut out at each corner, and a groove with the same dimensions is cut out in the other beam mating with the first beam.

Most projects require cutting a mortise and tenon that is ¼ or even 1/3 the thickness of the timber. Then, when constructing the walls, both mating beams are connected. It is very important that the connection between the tongue and groove is as tight as possible; the smaller the gap between these two elements, the warmer the angle will be.

For better connection tenon and groove in modern construction inter-crown insulation is used, which can be vegetable felt. This ensures even better sealing of the corner. In addition, to ensure a more rigid binding, the different layers of beams alternate with tongues and grooves.

Corner connection unit “Warm corner”

Technology "Warm Corner" or otherwise in "Tongue and groove" ensures structural strength, due to the absence of gaps between the beams, the external attractiveness of the building and, most importantly, excellent thermal insulation.

Half-tree connection type

The next cutting option that we will consider is cutting "half a tree"- this is a method whose name was fixed due to the removal of the upper or lower half of the thickness of its mass at the corners of the beams. Assembly begins with drilling holes for the dowel in the corners of the beams in such a way that one dowel can connect several beams at once.

After laying the first crown, connected by dowels at the corners, a seal is placed on it and the bars of the next crown are placed. Having completed the corner connections of the second crown, they begin to connect the crowns together. To do this, holes are drilled in the second crown every 100-150 cm and dowels are driven in. The dowel hammered into the second crown must enter the body of the first crown by at least half its thickness. If the dowels are long - at least 2.5 times the thickness of the crown, and the tool allows you to drill holes to such a depth, then a third crown is laid and three crowns are joined together at once.

Half-tree corner connection unit

This connection is used as the main method when installing the harness timber houses and when increasing the length of the beam by connecting several beams. In addition, it can be used in the construction of walls with mandatory subsequent cladding decorative material. It is used as the main one by many construction organizations.