Do-it-yourself warm water floor on the logs. How to make a warm water floor in a wooden house with your own hands

For a country house wooden bath floor heating system will become convenient and practical. Underfloor heating, water, the contour of which must be hidden in the underground, is able to efficiently and efficiently heat quite spacious living quarters. This is especially convenient for you to do to improve the habitability of your dacha, to create more comfortable conditions in the bathhouse.

It is not possible to solve such an engineering and technical problem by laying water pipes under a concrete screed. Here affects technological features the very structure and the very nature of the technology. Not every wooden floor or logs underlying the structure can withstand a huge additional load in the form of monolithic slab. The way out of this situation is to make warm floors, water, laid on a wooden floor.

Main idea and practical solution

Enough long time it was generally accepted that mounting water heating circuits directly on wooden floors was not a very good idea. Mainly, the reason for this opinion lay in the characteristics of the building material. Construction wood, despite a lot of technological advantages, is highly susceptible to the effect of thermal deformation. In addition, excessive exposure to moisture also adversely affects the wood. The lightness of wooden structures and insulating properties were considered disadvantages when it came to the installation of more complex thermal and hydraulic structures in the building.

Despite the obvious obstacles, attempts to find a reasonable way out of this situation have led to the emergence of new technologies that allow you to install a water-heated floor on a wooden floor, create heating water systems in wooden buildings. The main thing is to choose the right expendable materials and adhere to certain technology.

To date, there are two types of underfloor heating used in residential buildings as a heating element. About wiring diagram we will not speak, since it has not found its development in combination with wooden structures. Let's pay attention to the water heating system - a warm water floor, in which hot water runs through the pipes of the heating circuit.

What technical difficulties await us in this case? The principle of operation that underlies this heating system is well known and understood. It makes no difference whether the water circuit lies in a concrete screed, or skillfully hidden in a wooden floor. Water circulating through the pipeline heats the surface of the floor, thereby giving off precious heat inner space heated room.

On a note: skeptics can make a remark - the tree does not conduct heat well, in addition, the wooden structure itself can be deformed as a result of heating. There is something to be said for these comments. The use of special heat-conducting plates makes it possible to achieve that thermal energy will go in a strictly vertical direction, heating the floor covering.

A few words should be said here that, from a technical point of view, laying heating pipes on a wooden floor is not difficult. If at the initial stage you have a clear idea of ​​​​what your underfloor heating should be, what type of flooring you will have, it is quite possible to make water floor heating.

Key points

We have already said that it is not always possible to solve the problem simply as you would like. For capital stone structures with concrete floors, concrete screed for underfloor heating is very convenient. However, in most cases, wooden residential buildings, in which wooden floors are not able to withstand an additional weight of 10-15 tons. A tree, even if you are dealing with a beam system of a set, cannot withstand such a load. It does not make sense to strengthen the supporting structures during the construction of a country house or a bathhouse. This will lead to an increase in cost and to the weight of the entire structure.

For reference: any water-heated floor involves the creation of a substrate. This element is mandatory for underfloor heating of any type. Without underlayment and one floor covering will not have sufficient support.

The key point in this situation is new technology, thanks to which it was possible not only to significantly reduce the weight of the entire structure of the heating system, but also to ensure that heat began to be transferred directly to the floor covering. The substrate can be successfully covered with linoleum or carpet. The emergence of new practical and high-tech materials allows you to create an entire heating system based on wooden floors in a matter of days. When working with a concrete screed, you will have to strictly adhere to the technology and wait 25-28 days until the screed reaches its maturity.

Assessment of the condition of wooden structures. Pre-insulation

Before proceeding with the design of the "water heated floor" heating system, it is necessary to examine wooden structures, floors, logs and other load-bearing elements. The wooden base, consisting of boards, must be solid. The cracks existing between the boards are carefully sealed with heat-insulating materials. The floor in a wooden house is usually mounted on logs, so it is important to study their condition and location.

Condition assessment includes:

• visual inspection of the state of the surface of wooden boards;
• feeling and scraping the surface of wooden boards to assess the structure of the wood;
• elimination of cracked and sagging boards;
• alignment of lags in places of deflection;
• adding lags if the distance between existing elements too big.

For reference: if the condition of the wooden floor is unsatisfactory (old cracked or rotten boards), it is better to dismantle such a base. The joists that hold the boards are too far apart. For a warm floor, the logs must be at a distance of at least 60 cm from each other.

There is an installation option when a warm floor is laid on wooden lags. Those. in other words, the whole structure will be on top of the supporting structures, representing an independent structure.

Old boards that do not have a marketable appearance must be treated with a jointer to make the surface of the material even and uniform. The maximum allowable height irregularities for a wooden floor are no more than 2 mm. Such care and precision wooden floor necessary due to the fact that in this system there is no substrate.

Having finished with the assessment of the condition and preparation of the wooden floor, you should proceed to the insulation of the structure. Such a preliminary procedure is necessary due to the fact that all the heat radiated by the water circuit should not go down into the underground, but linger and go up.

Reinstall the lags at an acceptable distance, install the raised floor. On the logs, plywood or used boards are nailed from below. This will serve as the basis for the laid thermal insulation material. Steam and heat-shielding film should be laid on the prepared base. In the openings between the lags, a heater is laid on the film, the thickness of which should not exceed 100 mm. On top of the insulation, a heat-insulating film is again fixed. Only after all this, you can start laying the heating water circuit.

On a note: It is strongly not recommended to use ordinary polyethylene film as thermal insulation. Neglect of technology will lead to the fact that condensate will begin to accumulate in the subfield. Due to the accumulation of moisture, the insulation may soon become unusable.

Insulation in this situation can be mineral wool, the density of which is 35-40 kg / 3.

Installation of the floorboard and methods of laying heating pipes

At this stage, it is necessary to take into account technological subtleties. Of course, this will take a little more time, but in further work will be much faster. Should be said right away. The layout of the water heating circuit in this case is a "snake". Installation of the pipeline according to the "spiral" or "snail" scheme is unacceptable for this technology.

On the prepared base, we begin laying boards that have a special configuration, equipped with special grooves. Between the boards there should be grooves measuring 20x20 mm. The edges of the boards are turned in a semicircle for a convenient inversion of the water pipe. Having made all the necessary preparations, you can lay all the boards on the prepared base. The presence of grooves and the semicircular edges of the boards are the route for laying the water circuit. This to some extent facilitates the task in the future when installing the underfloor heating pipeline directly.

Ready-made grooves for mounting a water pipe of a water-heated floor under wooden floors are shown in the photo.

Thanks to the grooves, laying the heating circuit is easy and fast. Before working with the pipe, foil is unwound over the grooves. After that, a pipe is laid in the grooves, the diameter of which should not exceed 16 mm. In order to get maximum heat transfer, the pipe is wrapped in foil, attaching its edges with staples to wooden boards.

On top of the pipe, they are attached to the boards with metal plates. According to this scheme, the entire water pipe thus covering the entire area of ​​the floor.

On the preliminary plan of the room, marks are made where the control equipment (collector, manifold cabinet) will be installed.

Important! Pipes should be laid taking into account a certain step. For the central regions of the country, where the average monthly temperature in winter is -15, -20 0 C, the optimal laying step is 150-300 mm.

Better to use stainless corrugated pipe 16 mm in diameter.

The final stage. Connection to autonomous heating system

After you have laid the water circuit, you can start connecting it. For manual control, the connection is simply made to the main pipeline using a conventional tap. If you want to make the system adjustable, warm water floors under the wooden floor are equipped with mixing units and a collector. In this case, you get a convenient, efficient and regulated system heating.

For those who want to improvise should remember! Under no circumstances should underfloor heating be connected to a central heating main. Additional connections heating appliances including underfloor heating centralized system heating and hot water is not legal.

Based on this, it is impractical and risky to install a water floor in a city apartment. For a private house or for a summer residence, this option is quite acceptable and effective. After connection, the water circuits must be pressure tested. The procedure is mandatory and allows you to identify places of coolant leakage, identify zones of low heating. Only after that you can start working with flooring.

Finish. Floor covering flooring

The cover you choose can be anything. To date, the trading network has a huge selection of the most various materials. You will have to choose not so much for manufacturability as for cost. If you prefer to use laminate, then you will need some time for this. The costs will not be so high in this case.

On a note: any material has its own coefficient of thermal conductivity, so your level of comfort and heating efficiency depend on it.

Wood has a low thermal conductivity compared to ceramic tiles. Before starting the installation of a water heated floor along the logs, thermal calculations should be made to give an idea of ​​the amount of heat that will be on the surface. Doing everything correctly and in accordance with technology, you can do it yourself effective system heating in living quarters.

In the vast majority of cases, a wooden-based warm floor is made electric: it is faster and easier to solve a number of technological problems. But it is quite possible to install water heating - and here they will help you useful advice, which are based on my own experience with laying such systems.

We will analyze the main difficulties that will be encountered when assembling the structure, and we will understand optimal sequence work on the device of such a floor.

Water floors in wooden houses

Features of heating a wooden floor

A water heated floor under wooden floors, and even more so on a wooden base, is not mounted so often. There are several reasons for this:

1. thermal conductivity of wood. On the one hand, this is a plus - the wooden base acts as a heat insulator. On the other hand, the floor will warm up for quite a long time. In addition, there is a risk that a significant proportion of the energy will be spent on heating the subfloor, and only part of the heat (relatively small) will enter the room.
2. Thermal deformation. Laying pipes with hot water in the thickness of a wooden floor can lead to an uneven change in the linear dimensions of its individual sections. As a result, the stability of the structure is significantly reduced - primarily due to the appearance of cracks in both the rough decking and the frame.

1. Moisture exposure. Of course, water-heated floor systems are made airtight, trying with all their might to avoid leaks. But when laid under wooden coating even condensation caused by temperature differences can cause the wood to swell.

1. Considerable thickness of heating elements. If the pipes of a water-heated floor are laid in a screed, their thickness can be easily compensated by pouring the desired layer of concrete. When mounting on a wooden base, these problems have to be solved differently, since it is easy to lay finish coating over pipes will not work.

The option of pouring a concrete screed over wooden logs and rough flooring from a board or thick plywood is usually not considered. The reason is quite obvious: desired thickness layer load on square meter overlap may well reach 300 kg. For a wooden frame, this is a lot, because it will either deform immediately, or it will last for a while - and then it will begin to sag.

However, what I said above does not mean that wooden system water floor is unrealizable in principle. Given all these shortcomings and use in the work modern materials, fixtures and technologies, then a warm floor on logs or boardwalk will work to the envy of neighbors.

How can you make a base?

When planning the installation of a warm floor in a house with a wooden floor or a log system, we need to solve the main question - where to hide the pipes?

The difficulty here is not only to protect them from the load. This, just, is easy to do - just raise the level of the finish coat by a few centimeters. But in this case, we lose a lot in terms of heat transfer efficiency: a air layer which acts as a heat insulator. That is, we heat anything, but not the floor itself.

That is why, when assembling the underfloor heating system, they try to lay the coating exactly at the level of the upper edge of the pipe.

For this, the following devices are used:

Illustration	Method of laying the water heating system
	Milled prefabricated bases. For laying pipes in the thickness of the floor at the desired level, chipboards (chipboards) with grooves made on a milling machine are used. The depth and configuration of the grooves are selected in such a way as to ensure the most rational distribution of pipes with coolant. Cons of modular chipboard flooring: high material cost due to milling; low moisture resistance; tendency to deform.
	Rack structures. This option is a cheaper alternative to the modular base with milled grooves. Laths are stuffed onto the subfloor, the gap between which corresponds to the diameter of the pipe being laid. The thickness of the laths is selected in such a way that the clearance between the upper edge of the pipe and the finished floor is minimal - this reduces heat loss. Minus- the gaps on the sides and in the places where the pipes turn are large, so part of the heat is still lost.
	polymer mats. To solve a large part of the problems associated with heat loss, deformation and wetting, polymer mats with pipe laying grooves can also be laid on top of the rough deck. They function in the same way as milled chipboard panels, but the efficiency of these products is higher. Minus- high price, which is offset by savings on heating only partially.

Any of these options are suitable if we need to lay a warm floor on plywood or other wooden base. I am a supporter of polymer mats, but also milled chipboard models, and even simple designs of the laths stuffed on the floor have a right to exist.

Material equipment

What is needed for floor installation?

So, if we need to mount a heating system with our own hands, we should start with the purchase of materials. The minimum list of what we need, I will give in the table:

Illustration	Material
	Materials for thermal insulation for underground space: expanded clay; mineral wool; boards based on polystyrene; hydro and vapor barrier membranes.
	Subfloor materials: moisture resistant plywood with a thickness of 15 mm or more; wood boards (OSB, chipboard); edged board; bars for logs and supports; waterproofing impregnation for wood with an antiseptic; mechanical fastener.
	Mats for warm floors.
	Metal heat-reflecting plates.
	Damper tape.
	Plastic pipes for underfloor heating: metal-plastic; pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene.
	Collector.
	Flooring.

Keep in mind that underfloor heating wooden board, linoleum, laminate, tiles, etc. can be laid on different schemes. Accordingly, the set of materials may differ from those given here. It all depends on what will be used as the finishing layer.

Tools for the job

Preparation of the premises for the installation of the heating system and the actual laying of the underfloor heating is carried out using the following tools:

1. Saw on wood.
2. Drill with a set of drills.
3. Screwdriver.
4. Knife for cutting thermal and waterproofing.
5. Brushes for applying waterproofing impregnations.
6. Saw or special tool for cutting pipes.

1. Tool for mounting fittings (crimping pliers for metal-plastic, soldering iron for polyethylene, etc.).
2. Level.
3. Roulette.

Mounting technology

Stage 1. Preliminary work

The device of a water heated floor can be carried out both at the stage of building a house, and in an already operated room. Naturally, the amount of work in these cases will be radically different, so here I will describe the ideal situation, that is, I will list the basic requirements for the foundation:

1. Underfloor waterproofing. To cut off moisture coming from the ground, the underground space between the lags must be waterproofed. To do this, first we ram the soil under the room, then we fill it with a layer of sand up to 15 cm thick and ram it again. For maximum effective protection on top of the bedding, a thin concrete can be arranged or a waterproof membrane (polyethylene, roofing material) can be laid.

1. Thermal insulation of underground space. On top of the waterproofing layer we lay insulation - bulk or slab. When laying inelastic board materials(mineral wool high density, polystyrene) fill all the gaps between them with self-expanding polyurethane foam.

Expanded clay is effective only when the thickness of the heat-insulating layer is from 30–40 cm. At the same time, it is desirable to fill it with very liquid cement mortar to reduce moisture permeability and obtain improvised expanded clay concrete.

1. Vapor barrier of the insulated layer. On top of the insulation under the subfloor, be sure to lay a layer vapor barrier material(glassine, polyethylene, membrane). We arrange the vapor barrier in such a way that between it it almost completely covers the logs. At the edges of the log, we leave free sections about 50 mm long to evaporate moisture from the wood.

1. Subfloor laying. We make a draft floor for water heating either from plywood, or from boards, or from chipboard with milling. We attach the flooring to the logs, and in such a way that between it and the thermal insulation layer there is a gap of 30–50 mm for ventilation and condensate drainage.

This sequence of actions is suitable for a new building. If we install heating floor covering in an already operated house, it is enough to check and strengthen the subfloor.

In extreme cases, the flooring is opened and, after laying additional thermal insulation / vapor barrier in the underground space, it is mounted back.

Stage 2. Preparing the base for laying

Warm water floor hardwood floors arranged on a specially prepared basis. It must provide the necessary load-bearing capacity, hydro- and thermal insulation, and also protect all structural elements from excessive deformations.

The basis of heat-insulating polymer mats is done as follows:

Illustration	Stage of work
	Sticking damper tape. On the walls around the perimeter of the room we paste a damper tape made of polyethylene foam. Such a tape is an indispensable structural element of any warm floor, since it compensates for temperature deformations.
	Laying mats with grooves. On top of the base we lay mats with grooves for pipes and heat-insulating elements. In this case, two-layer mats are used. Their bottom layer is made of porous foam, the top layer is made of sufficiently dense PVC, which ensures strength and reliability of fixation. Mats are laid out close to the walls. We connect individual elements with the help of side latches, laying them without gaps and joints.
	Adjustment of heat-insulating plates. We remove the metal heat-insulating plates from the package and adjust them in length. As a rule, products have special slots that allow them to be shortened without the use of tools. When fitting, we simply bend the plate along the desired slot and break off the fragment.
	Laying of heat-insulating plates. We distribute the heat-insulating plates over the surface of the base in such a way that the configuration of the grooves corresponds to the planned scheme for laying pipes for underfloor heating. Standard products are designed for a laying step of about 20 cm, so they need to be placed close to each other. With the correct layout, metal parts should cover from 80 to 90% of the entire area.
	Fixation of metal plates. We fix each plate on the base by pressing it into the groove of the heat-insulating mat along the entire length. In this case, the recess in the middle part of the plate, intended for laying the pipe, must snap into place on the mat fasteners. You can fix it both with your hand and by stepping on the plates with your foot. In the second case, we use shoes with soles without metal elements, so as not to damage the anti-corrosion coating of the metal.

In principle, the above instruction is universal - it is suitable for milled chipboard, and even for a slatted floor. If you want to save money, then steel plates can be replaced with rolled insulation with a foil layer. We attach the insulation to the rails stuffed on the base with a stapler, but do not stretch, but form grooves for laying pipes.

Stage 3. Installation and connection of heating pipes

Now we need to lay pipes and connect them to the heating system:

Illustration	Stage of work
	Installation of a manifold cabinet. In the corner of the room we mount a cabinet with a collector for underfloor heating. The cabinet can be mounted both in a wall niche and on the wall surface. We bring pipes to the collector, through which hot water will flow into the contours of the warm floor. When using a separate heater, we connect the collector to it using hoses or pipes.
	Pipe layout. We unwind a coil with a pipe with a diameter of 16 mm, gradually unfolding the pipe into the grooves of the heat-insulating plates. When performing this operation, we strictly observe the laying step, try to avoid twisting and creases of the pipeline. Each circuit is desirable to be made from a single pipe, without joints in the thickness of the warm floor - this way the reliability will be maximum.
	Pipe fixing. We fix the pipes on the floor in the same way as we fixed the heat-insulating plates: we put the product into the groove and press it down with our hand or foot. With the correct selection of pipes and mounting elements, the contour is securely fixed due to the elasticity of the material and the configuration of the grooves in the plates.
	Connecting to a collector. We connect pipes to the inlets and outlets of the underfloor heating collector. For fastening, we use fittings that provide maximum tightness.
	Filling in contours. AT heating system for the floor, you can use both water and antifreeze. First, the circuits are filled by gravity until liquid begins to drip from the control nozzle. After that, air is removed from the system, and then the circulation pump is turned on (if its presence is provided for by the design). When the pump is switched on, the circuits are finally filled.
	System test. If possible, we set the desired temperature of the coolant in the pipes. We check the operability of the system, its tightness and uniformity of heating of the circuits. In the absence of leaks and other problems, you can proceed to complete the installation.
	Installation of a heat-distributing film. For more efficient heat transfer, we lay out a film based on heat-resistant polyethylene over the heating circuit. We mount the rolls with an overlap, gluing the joints with reinforced tape.
	Laying flooring or rough flooring. On top of the warm floor we mount either a finishing floor (laminate, batten), or we lay rough gypsum fiber boards.

Conclusion

Arrange a warm wooden floor, and even wooden base, is not an easy task. But you can cope with it yourself - if, of course, you carefully study the tips and videos in this article, and if necessary, you will seek advice from specialists in the comments.

For a water heated floor of a classical design, a heavy cement-sand screed with a thickness of 8 cm or more is used. This thickness is necessary primarily to maintain the integrity of the screed itself when heated, to prevent its cracking, and also in order to better dissipate heat energy from pipes. But a very heavy screed on wooden logs in most cases, without building new foundations, is not applicable.

How can you replace a thick cement-sand screed to make a warm floor on wooden logs, in which the bearing capacity is limited ...

Features of lightweight underfloor heating

Distinctive features of a dry system of underfloor heating with wooden logs are the following.

• The cement-sand screed can be replaced with a dry prefabricated screed of lesser thickness from boards containing gypsum and/or cement and binding fibers that do not crack when heated. Gypsum fiber boards (GVL), cement particle boards (DSP) are mainly used.
• The heating pipe must be laid on metal sheets, which will be conductors and heat dissipators. Otherwise, a decrease in the output power and the appearance of a temperature zebra may occur. But instead of laying metal, it is also possible to increase the density of laying the pipeline by 2 to 4 times.

• Lightweight water-heated floor is characterized by simplicity of design and high speed of construction.
• The pipeline can also be placed between the existing lags, which allows you to create a floor in low rooms.
• The heat capacity of the prefabricated dry screed is relatively small, so the heating system, like radiators, can be quickly adjusted to the desired operating mode. This means that the lightweight system can be the only heating system in the house, as long as its heating capacity is enough.
• The thermal power of underfloor heating with prefabricated screed usually cannot exceed 0.7 kW from 10 square meters. area, at a comfortable floor temperature of 28 degrees (coolant 30 - 35 degrees). Therefore, for a well-insulated house in the central regions, this power will be enough for most of the time. heating season. More information

It makes sense to create a prefabricated warm floor not only when building a house, but also when carrying out capital repair work. Such a warm floor can be made in stages - first, the operating system in one room, then it is created in the next ....

How to insulate a heated floor with lags

When choosing an insulation scheme, first of all, the height of the room is taken into account (it is advisable not to do less than 2.45 m) and the design of the floors.

The most common situation is the following situation - there is a low ventilated subfloor, above it there are logs with a height of at least 15 cm. At the same time, the height of the room is large and can be reduced by 10 cm.

Then it is optimal to place a layer of mineral wool insulation with a thickness of 15 cm between the lag (for floors, the heat transfer resistance is not lower than 4.2 m2 x ° C / W, for the central region, according to the Requirements of SNiP 23.02-2003).

The insulation from the living space of the house is fenced off with a vapor barrier, and ventilated through the underground. Usually the membrane is fastened to the sidewalls of the lag, leaving between it and the boards air gap from 2 cm.

But options are possible combined insulation– mineral wool and extruded polystyrene foam.

At the same time, mineral wool with a layer of 10 - 15 cm is placed between the log, and above the subfloor - extruded polystyrene foam with a layer of 3.5 - 5 cm. A vapor barrier membrane is placed on top of the layers.

This option also helps out with insufficient lag height, when it is not possible to place a layer of insulation of the required thickness between them.

Piping options

Placement of the pipeline between the lags or bars.
For better distribution of thermal energy, profiled sheet metal is used in the design of the warm floor.

It can be either a special heat dissipator for pipes, or (for placement between the lag) and an ordinary profiled sheet. The pipeline is laid in the waves of the profiled sheet and is below the level of the crate.

On top of the counter-lattice or log, gypsum-fiber or cement-bonded sheets are laid in 2 layers. They have sufficient thermal conductivity, while not cracking. The layers are fastened together with an adhesive solution and a number of screws with a step of 25 cm.

The layout of the underfloor heating pipeline for the second floor with filing the ceiling of the first floor is presented. In this case, the thickness of the insulation can be small, 50 - 100 mm (do not heat the ceiling of the lower floor), while indoors it is desirable to use environmentally friendly autoclaved aerated concrete with a density of 100 - 150 kg / m3, and not mineral wool or polystyrene foams that are dangerous in case of fire. From the steam coming from the lower room, the insulation is fenced off by a vapor barrier membrane.

Pipeline in embossed insulation

Sheets of extruded polystyrene foam are produced with a relief surface on which metal sheets and a pipeline can be placed with a selected pattern.

This insulation is laid on the subfloor boards, while the thickness of the main insulation layer can be reduced, for example, to 10 cm, and extruded polystyrene foam is used with a thickness of 3.5 - 5 cm.

Then the voids are filled with cement (gypsum) mortar, a flat surface is made, and double gypsum fiber sheets are laid on top, as in the previous example.

Ordinary sheets of extruded polystyrene foam can also be used, then with a heating tool, cut grooves in them for a metal heat sink and pipeline. But the option is expensive. manual labor and overheating.

For uniform heating of the entire surface, the heat distribution plates must be under 80% of the area of ​​the warm floor.

Placement of the pipeline inside the dry screed.

Grooves for placing heat reflectors and pipelines can be created not only with insulation, but also with a screed.

A rough base is laid on the logs in the form of a single sheet of GVL (DSP). Pieces of drywall of the desired configuration are laid on it, and between them are metal sheets and a pipeline fastened to them.

Gaps, voids are filled with cement-sand mortar with plasticizer, the surface is leveled. Two layers of GVL or DSP sheet material are laid above.

Recommendations for assembling a heated floor on a wooden base

On sale you can find designers for assembling lightweight underfloor heating without wet processes. They include a metal sheet under the heating pipeline and profiled insulation.

All this is covered with a dry screed in two layers of sheets with a total thickness of up to 3 cm. Such an assembly is simpler, but the materials are more expensive.

• Before covering the pipeline with mortar or screed, it is necessary to carry out hydraulic tests pipeline - with maximum pressure within a few hours.
• Laying mortar can only be carried out on a pipeline under operating pressure (2 atm).
• After covering with a screed, thermal tests are carried out - for the maximum temperature of the coolant for 3 hours.
• Floor covering is used only specially designed for use on warm floors, - thin parquet board with impregnation, special types of laminate and linoleum.

The supply equipment consists of a pumping and mixing unit and a distribution manifold. In the unit, the coolant is mixed in such a way that the outlet temperature is set by the regulator, but not more than 35 degrees.

The collector distributes the coolant along the circuits.
Typically, the installation of these hydraulic systems trust the experts.

One of the options for creating lightweight underfloor heating in an already built house is a phased installation in separate rooms. First, the floors are made in the room closest to the coolant entry point in one circuit, usually a bathroom, a bathroom, a kitchen. Installed mixing unit but no collector.

When creating underfloor heating with your own hands, it is important to get the initial experience. After that, it will not be so difficult to make underfloor heating circuits in other rooms and install a distribution manifold.

Today I will tell you in detail, about some features of heating in my house and a little about plumbing.

2. First you need to fill the floor with rubble, or ASG

3. We exhibit by laser level subfloor marks (filling level)

4. Don't forget about communications. Punch holes for sewers and water pipes

5. After backfilling with stone, we fill everything with sand, with intermediate pouring with water and tamping. It is better to use a vibrating plate. It took me three cars of sand.

6. little helper and the future defender of the house The sand must be level, almost like a screed.

7. Next stage warming. For this I use EPS (Extruded Polystyrene). The material does not get wet and holds monstrous compressive loads. It is even laid under concrete slabs of runways. It costs 1440 rubles for a package, 180 rubles for a sheet, 50 mm.

8. We lay the joint in the joint.

9. On the sides, be sure to make small bumpers from the same material. With this we will insulate the future warm floor from the wall and make a damper edge for the possible expansion of the slab. You should get a "bath" from EPPS.

10. Ideally, you need two layers with overlapping seams, but since I won’t have a load here, I decided to save money.

11. Let me remind you that the material is very combustible, so it is impossible to insulate walls with it, and even more so inside buildings! That's what happened from a spark from a grinder. Thirty seconds and a fist-sized hole.

12. On the EPPS we lay a masonry mesh with a cell size of 10x10 centimeters. We will tie pipes to it.

13. We isolate the places of entrances to other rooms with the help of special tubular insulation.

14. In place of the bends of the corrugated pipe.

15. We remove sewerage and water supply. It is very convenient to mark the water with colored insulators.

16. We close all the entrances and exits again with the EPS and carefully foam it.

17. We continue to lay pipes. It's easy, you can even do it alone. But it's better with an assistant. One spins the pipe, the second ties it to plastic clamps. The distance between the pipes is from 10 to 15 centimeters.

18. Under the partitions, we lay the pipe in a corrugation to protect it from friction and bending loads.

19. If the plate is more than 8 meters, it must be divided to compensate for thermal expansion. I did it with EPPS. Can regular board or plywood.

20. Near the panoramic window and near the walls, we reduce the distance between the tubes to 8-10 centimeters to compensate for the outside temperature.

21. Under massive objects that will not move, it is better not to do the floor. This is a place under the stove in the sauna.

22. Passage through the partition in the corrugation.

23. We lay the sewer pipes, taking into account the slope of 3 centimeters per meter.

24. Sewer pipes must be carefully fixed. Concrete will simply demolish them!

25. We display all the loops in one place, where the collector block will be. Here I have 5 loops, that is, 10 pipes. And this is only the first floor. It took about 400 meters of the Valtek pipe to 16.

26. Loops more than 100 meters are not recommended, due to balancing problems. But one loop I still got 111 meters. Therefore, it is better to take rolls of 200 meters. It is impossible to connect pipes inside the screed. They are laid there for 50 years!
Here will be panoramic window, so the pipes took more than the calculated amount.

27. We proceed to the assembly of the pumping and mixing unit. In principle, nothing complicated, but I messed up anyway :). Swapped the supply and return manifolds. Logically reasoning that the serve should always be on top. But after watching the training video, I realized on the company's website that I was wrong and quickly redid it. Logic does not understand this: the mixing unit must always be on the left, the supply to the unit is TOP, and the supply to the manifold is BOTTOM!
Pumping and mixing unit for underfloor heating VALTEC COMBI

28. Picked up all five contours of the first floor.
Manifold block for water radiator and underfloor heating systems (water heated floor) with control valves with flow meters and manual (with the possibility of installing an electrothermal servo drive) shut-off valves, automatic air vents and drainage. The diameter of the manifolds is 1 or 1 1/4″. The number of outlets is from 3 to 12. The diameter of the branch pipes is 3/4″, the thread is external, the connection standard is Eurocone. The operating temperature of the heat carrier is up to 90 °C, pressure is up to 10 bar.

In the pump-mixing unit VALTEC COMBI for water heated floors, the preparation of a heat carrier with a temperature of 20 to 60 ° C occurs due to the admixture of liquid from the return line. Regulation is carried out by a two-way valve installed in the supply manifold and controlled by a thermostatic head with a remote submersible sensor, which is located at the outlet of the mixing unit. (When using a heating controller, the valve control function is transferred to it.) The balancing valve in the mixing line sets the ratio of the coolant coming from the return line of the secondary circuit and the direct line of the primary. Other main elements of the assembly: bypass with bypass valve; built-in Ball Valves to turn off the circulation pump; automatic air vent; immersion thermometers.

Pump Wilo Star-RS 25/4

29. They brought concrete. I ordered a mixer for 8 cubes sand-cement mixture M-150 with plasticizers for underfloor heating. The three of us scattered it in half a day. Very hard!

30. The cat tried to help, but it’s difficult without boots

31. They leveled the next day, with shovels and axes, removed the burrs, since it is difficult to immediately set the level.

32. In the meantime, while the concrete is drying, I started building a temporary, guest bathroom.
There was a stove here. The walls are very uneven.

33. I align the walls with a profile and don’t tell me that it is ceiling-mounted and cannot be horizontally

34. I raise the ceiling level by a meter so that the shower cubicle fits in.

35. The indents from the walls are gigantic. Then I will fill all the empty space with pieces of mineral wool. Fortunately, I have a lot of waste.

36. Sew up with moisture-resistant GVL, it is green. The floor has already been treated with rubber-bitumen mastic.

37. I fill all the cavities with mineral wool. This is not for heat, but for soundproofing.

38. I'm starting to install a polypropylene plumbing. I bought a welding machine for 2000 rubles. Rent costs 500 rubles a day, it will pay off in 4 days. And I still have a lot to cook

39. We have to work out with the fastening of pipes.

40. As a result, he did this:

41. All pipes behind drywall, sewer too.

42. Multi-colored insulation is no more. Let all the water be hot

43. This is the ceiling, or rather its frame.

44. Visible ventilation. She's taken to the roof.

45. I sheathe the ceiling with plastic panels 30 centimeters wide.

46. ​​Installing Spotlights and take the corrugation to the ventilation.

47. The floor is prepared for tiles and screed. At the bottom, a board 150x50 on an edge, after 30 centimeters with jumpers, on it a floor board 40 mm, tongue-and-groove, smeared with rubber-bitumen mastic from the heart and OSB-3 is moisture resistant on top. It has EPPS 50 MM and a vapor barrier.

48. Walls, as you understand, from plastic panels, because you need to quickly make and run a bathroom. In the house, a family of 5 people did not wash for three days

49. The final touch is a plastic grille for ventilation. Do not forget to leave a gap of 2-3 centimeters under the doors for the free flow of air from other rooms.

50. I start assembling the booth. My wife wanted to call specialists for 4,000 rubles, but you and I know that this is almost 20 liters of beer

51. We smoke the manual, while everything seems to converge.

52. Trying on a bath. Fits in but not enough space.

53. I collect the mixer with the help of Tibetan magic and a tambourine.

54. Collected. Since there was little space, I had to take long hoses of 1.5 meters.

55. We assemble the back and side walls. Here I had to turn to YAP. The guys helped with advice and even sent pictures of their booths. Respect and respect!

56. She is alive! Everything works, radio, shower, massage. The whole process took 3 days. Don't forget to fill in all the cracks!

57. The toilet also fell into place.

58. Mixer. I have been buying mixers from Calorie for 10 years, China of course, but industrial assembly. The quality is excellent and the price is affordable, about 3000 rubles, such a thing costs.

59. But the sink was not comfortable. Water splashes from it.

60. It's time to make a warm floor on the second floor.
Cake overlap from bottom to top:
Log 6.5 meters by 30 centimeters, after 2 meters.
Board 200x50 on the edge, after 60 centimeters with spacers.
Board 150x50 as a subfloor.

61. The floor must be dry! I kept it for 3-4 months in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area. During this time, the gaps increased to 1 centimeter and in some places “helicopters” appeared. We hammer in the nails with a finisher and scrape with an ordinary planer for 2000 rubles, it is enough for 100 squares.

62. In wet rooms we process the boards with rubber-bitumen mastic. We glue a reflective vapor barrier on it.

63. The technology is as follows: heat the mastic on a stove (on an electric one!) To a liquid state and spread the boards on the width of the insulation.

64. As a result, we get a uniform coating, protection from moisture and heat down.

65. We leave an allowance of 7-10 centimeters on the walls to compensate for the thermal expansion of the underfloor heating slab.

66. On the second floor, I made a cutout for a manifold cabinet.

67. Pipes go through the attic of the bath. It is slightly lower than the main house. We fasten pipes to ordinary clips, for pipes or electricians. They are practically the same.

68. We lay the first loop, there will be 6 in total. Laying technology is a snail. First, we lay with a double step of 36 centimeters, then from the center the return line after 15 centimeters. Ideal for a bedroom.

70. The distance between the pipes is 36 cm, taking into account the width of the clip.

71. Return from the center of the snail. The photo shows a spring-jig for bending in difficult places. If the pipe is bent, you will have to do everything all over again, and throw the pipe away. All 100 meters!

73. When all the pipes are laid, strips of GVL (Gypsum Fiber Sheet) are laid between them in two layers; you cannot lay a simple drywall!

74. It turns out almost a monolithic slab.

75. Fill all the grooves with a solution of TsPS or tile adhesive. We get a mini-screed of light weight with good heat dissipation.
Another layer of GVL is laid on top of the tile adhesive. We get the perfect subfloor for laminate and tile.

76. This is how 24 pipes go up. They will be hidden in the wall. The attic is double insulated.

77. According to the mind, the collector should have been put here as well. Installed automatic air vents to remove air. In the photo there are loop numbers and length in meters.

78. Last. Despite numerous disputes and excuses, I assembled this system myself, without any practical experience. About 1 km of pipes were laid. Everything works and heats up. The setup is quite complicated, but I just put everything in the middle position. The floor temperature is now 26 degrees, the air temperature is 25. The power reserve is about 80%. Very comfortable warmth.
Dare!

Underfloor heating is an invention of the 20th century. Our great-grandfathers did not have a heating electric cable and gas boilers. However, they came up with their own way of heating. To do this, they used the walls of buildings. While laying, they left channels in them for the movement of hot furnace gases.

Today, there is no need to resort to such tricks. You can make warm floors in a wooden house with minimal effort and money.

The choice of a heating heating system is very simple:

• Electric cable or mats with flat conductors;
• Underfloor heating based on plastic pipes with a liquid heat carrier.

Both heating options deserve positive reviews. They are equal in terms of comfort and heat dissipation, but not the same in terms of energy cost. Electricity is significantly more expensive than gas, so it is better to use a heating cable for underfloor heating in small spaces: bathrooms, kitchens and hallways. For bedrooms and living rooms, a liquid system of pipes, a gas or solid fuel boiler is best suited.

A lot has been written and said about the fact that underfloor heating is better than radiators.

We only note its most important advantages:

• Optimal heat distribution. The comfort temperature zone coincides with the living space (from the floor surface to a height of 1.7 meters). During battery operation, the air under the ceiling warms up the most.
• A radiator heating system activates the movement of dust to a greater extent than a warm floor.
• In terms of interior aesthetics, underfloor heating outperforms radiators.

Features of the installation of underfloor heating (water and electric) in a wooden house

The technology of laying a water-heated floor in a wooden house depends on the type of flooring. If the first floor and basement are closed reinforced concrete panels, then the heating system is made according to the "classical" scheme:

• leveling mortar screed;
• insulation (extruded polystyrene foam, perlite concrete);
• heating cable or plastic pipes;
• leveling screed covering the warm floor;
• top coat(tile, parquet, laminate).

It is more difficult to make a warm floor when they are used to cover the basement and first floor. wooden beams. In this case, there is no solid base, so the structure is assembled according to one of two options:

Option number 1

• from below, a board is knocked to the beams to support the insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, ecowool, perlite);
• having laid the thermal insulation, plastic pipes are attached to the side faces of the beams;
• cutouts are made in the beams for passing pipes;
• they lay a fine wooden floor from tongue-and-groove boards or a rough one for laying parquet or laminate.

Option number 2

• thick plywood is laid on the beams or OSB board(15-20 mm);
• attached to the cover wooden blocks section 50x50mm;
• insulation is laid between the bars;
• lay a material that reflects heat (aluminum foil);
• pipes are placed on top of the thermal insulation, fixing them to the bars;
• mount a draft floor from a board, gypsum-fiber sheets (gvl), particle boards or plywood;
• lay the finish coating (ceramic tiles, parquet, laminate).

Two options for installing a warm water floor using "dry" technology

In advanced systems mounted on wooden floors, heat-distributing metal plates. They perform two functions: they form channels for pipes and reflect heat.

Heat-distributing plates of a water floor

To simplify installation, you can use ready-made factory-made chipboards with milled recesses for pipes. In addition, on the market you can find panels made of dense foam with stamped channels (foam shield). In them, pipe wiring is fixed quickly and easily.

Installation plastic pipe in foam board

The pipeline of any configuration is mounted in a profile plate (laminated mats with bosses)

In the case of using foam, there is no need to attach a board to the beams to support the thermal insulation. Rigid insulation in this case is attached directly to the surface of the subfloor. After that, a substrate is spread on it under the laminate or applied adhesive solution, then a reinforcing mesh and lay the tiles.

Foam board with distribution plates and pipe

Main disadvantage finished structures(foam board and milled chipboard) - high cost. Therefore, some home masters use more cheap way channel formation. They stuff wooden planks on the base, leaving gaps between them for laying pipes.

Usage wooden planks and heat-distributing plates for laying the heating pipe

Instead of expensive thermoplastic plates, you can use affordable aluminum foil ( this way suitable for both water and electric underfloor heating).

Planks are made from planed boards or cut from moisture-resistant plywood. Their thickness must be greater than the diameter of the pipeline (pipe 17 mm - rail 30 mm). To improve heat transfer, the channel width is made 5-6 millimeters larger than the pipe diameter.

"Folk ways" of forming channels for pipes

The width of the slats is made 3 cm less than the selected pipe layout step (for example, a pipe step of 30 cm - a board width of 27 cm). For a smooth bending of the loops of the pipeline, semicircular grooves are cut out in the slats.

Another way to lay a warm water floor with your own hands is shown in the diagram below.

The option of using galvanized corrugated board for laying pipes

The profiled sheet in this case acts as a heat-reflecting screen and forms channels for pipes. In the diagram, we see a variant of the installation of a heating floor not above the basement, but on the ground floor. From below, along the beams, a finishing filing of the ceiling was made from lining. Therefore, the shield (10) supporting the insulation is attached not to the lower edges of the beams, but to the cranial bars nailed to their sides.

Please note that when laying thermal insulation (except for foam), it is always protected from above and below vapor barrier film. It protects the insulation from getting wet, as it allows water vapor to freely escape from it.

Leaving a thermal gap between the edge of the flooring and the wall, it is necessary to lay a damper tape in it. It seals the contact zone and compensates for thermal deformations.

Useful advice!

For laying a finished floor, use a board that has undergone chamber drying. Do not rush to fix the finished wooden flooring to the base. Up to this point, the warm floor should work for at least 2 days.

Installation of a “dry” electric underfloor heating in a wooden house is easier than installing a water system. A thin current-carrying cable does not need deep channels. It is fixed to the base with plastic ties-clamps or metal plates.

The installation sequence looks like this:

• A reflective layer of aluminum foil is laid on the thermal insulation (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, ecowool, perlite);
• A galvanized steel mesh with a cell of 40x40 or 50x50 mm is laid on the foil.
• Slots are made in the lags for the passage of an electric cable;
• A cable is attached to the grid with clamps;
• In the middle between the wires, a temperature sensor is installed in a corrugated tube and connected to the thermostat;
• On a fireproof base or in a metal hose, a power cable is output to an electrical outlet;
• A draft plywood floor is being laid;
• Finishing coating is mounted (laminate, parquet board).

If the electric underfloor heating is covered with ceramic tiles, then the installation procedure changes. In this case, the insulation is covered with moisture-resistant plywood or OSB, fixing them to the beams. After that, a solution is applied to the coating with a spatula, a plastic reinforcing mesh is embedded in it and the tiles are glued. If the heating cable is not in a bay, but glued to the grid, then its installation is simplified. Having rolled out the roll, you just have to apply glue to the surface of the base and lay the tile.

Mounting ceramic tiles on electric underfloor heating

In the same way, a film warm floor is laid on wooden floors. It consists of thin mats with flexible current-carrying plates glued into them.

The minimum thickness allows you to mount infrared film floors not only under tiles and laminate, but also under linoleum and carpet.

Which floor in a wooden house is better?

The answer to this question is not unambiguous. If the cost of construction and work is at the forefront, then it is better to use electric floors. If we compare the price of energy carriers, then it is more profitable water system. To save the height of the room, a thin film floor is used.

Regarding heaters, the following should be said: foam for underfloor heating - not best material. Being in contact with a warm floor, working temperature which can reach +70C, it ages, releasing toxic gas. Therefore, it is better to lay ecowool or perlite between the floor beams.

Having chosen mineral wool for insulation, it must be well insulated by wrapping it with a vapor barrier. Otherwise warm air through gaps and leaks, it can carry its particles out of the underground space into the room. Under laying tiles, it is better to use a chemically neutral sheet material: cement-bonded, glass-magnesite board or gypsum fiber sheet. OSB and plywood are inferior to them in terms of environmental safety.

Wooden flooring above the warm floor should not be thicker than 21 mm. Don't forget that wood is good heat insulator reducing the efficiency of the heating system.