Technology for restoring bearing supports for a concrete mixer. How to change a bearing on a concrete mixer

Hi all! Since I work as a sales consultant in a tool store, naturally my responsibilities include not only consulting, but also assembling various equipment. And in this article I decided to give instructions on how to assemble a concrete mixer.

This refers to a factory-made device, which the buyer purchases in disassembled form. Therefore, if you came across this article looking for information on how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands, then I'm sorry, here we'll talk about other. And in general, a new full-fledged concrete mixer will now cost 8-9 thousand rubles, which is not that expensive when compared with the rest of the cost of construction or repairs. Is it worth the bother of assembling it from scrap materials?

By the way, I recommend purchasing a concrete mixer here. This is the All Tools store. They have a large selection, reasonable prices, and free shipping to the pick-up point in your city. A 220 volt store works approximately the same way. To view their offer, click here.

So, I will show the assembly using the Skiff concrete mixer as an example, but the same unit is also sold under the brands Prorab, Kraton, Elitech, Caliber and many others. The truth may differ in color. And, if the design is slightly different than in our example, then the assembly will still be approximately the same. In our case, it is 160 liters, but the assembly process for mixers of other sizes is similar. This model is one of the most common among Chinese devices.

Let's move on directly to the assembly process. Unpack the box and lay out all the parts before your eyes. In order to assemble the concrete mixer from our example, you will need one open-end wrench for 12, 14, two for 17 and possibly one for 22. You will also need a Phillips screwdriver. We won’t go into details about where the bolts go. Everything is simple here: if the bolt fits, then install it.

First you need to take the triangular shaped rear support and put the wheels on it, securing them with the included washers and cotter pins.

Now we take the frame and connect it to the support indicated above, on which the wheels are already put on. The frame is the same on both sides, so it makes no difference which side this support is attached to. True, on some concrete roads there may still be a difference. If your frame is asymmetrical, then the triangular support should be mounted on the side where the engine will be mounted.

Now we attach the second support to the opposite edge of the frame.

Next, we install and fasten the lower part of the drum along with the support attached to it onto the assembled base. It's better to do it together. If you are alone and not confident in your abilities, then you can separate the support and drum by installing them separately. For this you will need a 22mm wrench. The ends of the support are different, so the one where the engine will be mounted (the side with the drive sprocket) is placed on the side of the wheels.

Now you need to attach the inner blades to the bottom of the drum.

Install top part drum to the bottom and screw it on. The installation must be done so that the arrows glued to both parts look at each other. If there are no arrows, then we place them so that the inner blades, with their mounting holes, reach the holes on the top. When installing, make sure that the mounting bolts holding sealing gum, got into their threaded mounting holes. After installation, tighten these bolts with a screwdriver.

Now we screw the inner blades to the top of the drum.

Then we install the “steering wheel”. We find a “coin” in the fastener and throw it into the recess for the spring.

Now insert the spring.

Holding the spring, we attach the “steering wheel” to the mounting holes and thread the bolt included in the kit. We screw two 17mm nuts onto this bolt, and without tightening them to the end, we lock them. Not fully tightening is necessary so that the “steering wheel” can freely deviate to change the tilt of the drum and return to its original position under the action of the spring.

Don’t forget to tighten the spring by tightening the bolt intended for this so that the “steering wheel” itself can remain with its protrusions in the slots of the clamp.

Now let's start installing the engine. If you already have it inside the assembled case, then everything is simple. We put it on the existing spindle with a pulley and fasten it using the supplied bolts and a special plate.

A concrete mixer is an equipment that not everyone has, but which no owner of a private home can live without.

After all, during any construction, be it the construction of a garage or the elementary construction of a fence, you cannot do without a concrete mixer. In such cases, you have to either move it away or buy it. If you chose the second option, then this article will be useful to you.

It is a known fact that imported concrete mixers are delivered to our country disassembled.

Sellers do not hesitate to make money at every opportunity and sell this equipment either disassembled or assembled but at 5-10 percent more expensive. Many people save money and buy a disassembled concrete mixer, deciding that they can cope with this task on their own without any problems. I turned out to be one of those people. Having ordered a Hungarian-made Agrimotor B 1510 FK concrete mixer and received it disassembled, I began to study the instructions.

The seller gave me two instructions. One is official from the manufacturer, and the second is an addition from the seller. The latter motivated this by the fact that the instructions from the manufacturer are quite confusing and incomprehensible. After studying both instructions, I realized that they were both confusing, inconsistent and incomprehensible. This is what the official instructions look like:

It is worth noting that the pictures show another model of concrete mixer, which is slightly different from mine.

Here are the seller's instructions:

After studying it, I understood what the concrete mixer consists of, but in what sequence and how to assemble it was absolutely unclear.

It’s good that I had an old French-made concrete mixer, Guy Noel, which is almost identical in design to the Agrimotor B 1510 FK.

I started the assembly by connecting the two parts of the pear. To do this, you need to connect them so that the holes for the crown match. In addition, you need to align them so that the holes for the blades are located in such a way that when you screw them (the blades) they are located at an angle and opposite to each other.

After this, we begin assembling the frame. First, we attach the wheels using special plastic plugs.

I only got one plug in the package, so I had to get out of it. Instead of the second one, I inserted a champagne cork.

We attach the footrest with wheels to the frame using two bolts. The holes were not adjusted precisely enough, so a hammer was needed.

We screw the second step on the opposite side.

Next, we press the cradle with bearings into the pear. This is best done by turning the pear upside down. Unfortunately, due to my inexperience, I performed this action when the cradle was already connected to the frame. This made it more difficult to press the bearings to the required depth. The cradle was delivered to me with two bearings already installed, so we skip the step of fixing the bearings to the cradle.

It is necessary to press in until the recess for the retaining ring is visible. Next, you need to install the retaining ring in this groove. The most convenient way to do this is with thin pliers. We thread the ends of the pliers into the holes in the ring and squeeze to the desired position. The locking ring prevents the bulb from being detached from the cradle.

We fix the dust collector, consisting of two plastic parts.

ATTENTION: in the previous photos it was fixed in the wrong place. Correctly attach it like this:

We install the cradle with a pear on the frame. On the side of the footrest without wheels, we install a control disk and a circle. At this stage, I spent a long time trying to figure out where the spring was placed. As it turned out, it is fixed between the circle and the end of the cradle. Install the spring and fix the circle with a bolt.

After this, we proceed to fixing the second retaining ring. It is mounted on the opposite side (engine side). You definitely won't be able to do this without thin pliers. It’s good that I bought them for myself a few days before, just in case. Having put the ring on the end of the pliers, separate them and fix the ring. This prevents unauthorized detachment of the cradle from the frame when the concrete mixer is loaded with mortar.

Let's start installing the engine. It’s good that at least the engine didn’t need to be assembled =). We thread the motor shaft into the hole in the frame and secure the gear using a tubular corkscrew. The latter fits in quite tightly, so I had to hammer it in with a hammer and screwdriver. Be careful when installing the gear! It should be installed with the smaller side facing the ring gear.

The engine itself also needs to be secured to the frame with bolts.

The last thing you need to do is screw it on protective cover above the gear with bottom side cradle To do this, turn the pear upside down and secure it with two screws.

That's it, our Agrimotor B 1510 FK concrete mixer is assembled and you can start it for the first time. I hope you this instruction will come in handy, and you will save nerves and time when assembling your concrete mixer.

Below you can watch a video in which I talk about all the assembly points. Unfortunately, it was not possible to film the entire assembly process because there was no one to film it.

A concrete mixer is equipment designed for preparing various mortars and mixing dry mixtures. Its use ensures high productivity of work. Moreover, compared to manually ensures the production of higher quality finished material at the output. But in order to achieve this, you need to properly mix the concrete or other composition, observing the proportional relationships between its components and the order in which they are added. Concrete mixers available on the market different principles actions. This affects maximum size fractions of the filler, which can be mixed when preparing the solution.

Effective work with a concrete mixer requires knowledge of its design. This is necessary so that, if necessary, you can repair the equipment model you are using yourself and perform its maintenance correctly.

The design of any concrete mixer requires the presence of the following general structural parts:

containers(drum) for mixing the solution;
frames, which is a steel support structure on which all other elements of the concrete mixer are fixed;
blades designed for mixing concrete or other mixtures and preventing them from sticking to the walls of the container;
drive with a transmission mechanism and its control system.

These structural elements are shown in the photograph below.

The metal drum can be different shapes, for example, cylindrical, pear-shaped, barrel-shaped.

The concrete mixer can work due to muscular force or due to the presence of an electric motor or engine internal combustion. In the first case, the drum is driven by a worker by rotating a special handle. But mechanical versions of the equipment are quite rare. The most widespread units with electric motors. They are equipped with a push-button post, with the help of which the operation of the mechanisms is controlled. The power of the installed drive determines the purpose of the equipment for domestic or professional use.

Based on the installation method, concrete mixers are divided into stationary and mobile models. The latter are equipped with wheels for ease of transportation.

There are two types of concrete mixers based on the method of mixing the solution:

gravitational;

forced.

The operating principle of a gravity-type concrete mixer is based on lifting the mixture being mixed by a rotating drum and its subsequent falling under the influence of gravity. At the same time, fixed blades located inside the container additionally separate the composition, facilitating the faster formation of a homogeneous mass. The material is unloaded through the loading opening using a drum tipping mechanism driven by a wheel or lever.

In gravity models, rotation from the motor to the container is transmitted through a gearbox or crown.

It works like a mixer: inside a stationary drum, a shaft with blades mixes the solution. The finished composition is unloaded through a slide gate, which is located at the bottom of the container. The shaft can be positioned horizontally or vertically (shown in the photo above). Forced-action models are equipped with more powerful electric motors than gravity models and are also more expensive.

Concrete mixer performance

The performance of a concrete mixer of both gravity and forced operating principles is determined by the following factors:

time for stirring the solution until ready;
drum volume;
electric motor power;
material unloading time;
the number of batches that can be prepared within an hour.

The mixing time is indicated by the equipment manufacturer in its operating instructions. A kneading that occurs in about 2-3 minutes is considered fast.

Power value determines the number of hours during which the concrete mixer can be operated without overloading the electric motor. To calculate how much concrete can be mixed with a concrete mixer per day, you need to perform the following simple mathematical steps:

add up the durations of loading, mixing and unloading;
determine the number of batches per hour by dividing 60 minutes by the figure obtained in the paragraph above;
find the volume of finished material in 1 hour by multiplying the capacity of the drum by the calculated number of batches;
multiply hourly productivity by the permissible number of working hours per day.

The productivity of gravity-action units is comparable to forced analogues with similar technical characteristics, in which the shaft is located vertically. Models with a horizontal shaft have lower performance. This is due to the fact that their shipping process takes longer.

Proper preparation of concrete mixture

Pouring a foundation, screeding a floor, laying floor slabs, bricks, cinder blocks and many other construction and repair works involve the need to prepare concrete mortar in large quantities. In this case, you need to mix the concrete correctly in a concrete mixer so that it turns out good quality. In this case, after pouring and compacting, you will get a durable monolith.

Proper preparation of concrete is as follows:

in the use of high-quality components (for example, unhardened cement of the required grade, clean sand with crushed stone);
thoroughly mixing the final mixture;
in maintaining proportions between components.

Before you prepare the solution, you need to purchase everything necessary materials, having previously calculated their required quantity. You will also need water.

Concrete proportions for foundations and others monolithic structures are determined by the brand of cement used: the higher it is, the less of this component is added to the mixed mixture.

If the correct ratios are observed, the strength of the monolith remains at the proper level. When preparing concrete, you should also take into account the moisture content of the sand and crushed stone: if they are wet, then less water needs to be added. Before mixing the solution, the concrete mixer should be placed in a stable position on a level, hard surface. You need to locate the equipment closer to the place where it is used, so that you don’t have to carry it far in buckets. The wheels of the unit should be secured in a stationary position using brakes. For unloading finished material fits well old bath

or a large trough - it’s convenient to collect the solution from them. Setting up the bucket and overturning the mixer every time is extra work.
add water;
pour cement;
add the required fillers (sand and crushed stone);
add the necessary additives if necessary (for example, plasticizer);

run the concrete mixer for the time specified in the operating instructions for the model used. Temperature concrete mixture at the exit from the concrete mixer should be approximately from +5 to +30 degrees (for different brands cement there may be slight deviations). In this case ready material

will comply with technological standards.

Making the solution takes some time. The exact duration of stirring depends on the additives added and the consistency of the mixture. Therefore, it is recommended to visually monitor the quality of the output material, and if there are lumps, increase the mixing time.

After use, an adhering solution remains on the walls of the drum, both outside and inside, from which they need to be cleaned. The working material also accumulates between the blades and contaminates the frame. If the solution is allowed to harden, it will need to be beaten with a hammer or other suitable tools. This removal method leads to the following negative consequences:

the appearance of dents;
knocking down paint, after which the metal begins to rust and corrode at a faster rate;
impossibility of complete cleaning (the dried solution remains in hard to reach places, for example, at the junction of the blades with the body).

Also, impact removal has a bad effect on the support bearing, accelerating its failure.

To prevent such consequences, it is necessary to wash the concrete mixer from hardened cement immediately after finishing work. Timely washing is especially important when the mixed composition contains plasticizing additives that have increased sticking properties: after hardening, removing them is very problematic.

It is recommended to perform rinsing not only at the end of the work shift, but also during the shift after a maximum of 2 batches. It is better to carry out the cleaning process by pouring water under pressure on a running concrete mixer. If this is not possible, then you need to pour water into the drum in the required quantity and rotate it. You can also wipe the walls outside and inside with a rag or brush.

The dirty water remaining inside the container after washing can be used for the next batch. You cannot leave it inside, because the plasticizer and cement deposited in the liquid will set. After cleaning, turn the container over to drain the water.

Destructive effects can be reduced cement mortar and impair its ability to adhere to the walls of the concrete mixer drum. For these purposes, before starting work, the inner and outer surfaces of the container should be treated water-repellent and anti-corrosion compounds. Silicone or automotive anti-corrosion agent are suitable as such materials. A one-time treatment is enough for approximately 3 months of regular use of the equipment. After this period has expired, the drum can be re-coated with a suitable composition.

Basic concrete mixer malfunctions and their elimination

During operation, various breakdowns occur. In some cases, repairing a concrete mixer can be easily done with your own hands, without contacting specialists service center. Most often, concrete mixer malfunctions are associated with the following components and parts.

Gearbox failure is classified as complex and quite expensive. Often replacing one gear is not enough. You have to install a new node.

To install a new bearing, you first need to remove the drum and gear. Then you need to knock out the shaft. Then you need to pull the bearing off with a puller. Instead of a worn or broken one, you should put in a whole unit and assemble it in reverse order.

Ring gear or gear meshing with it

The crown may be sector or continuous type. Only the first type of part can be replaced without disassembling the concrete mixer. To remove a worn drive gear, unscrew the bolted connection that secures it. Then this part is dismantled, replacing it with a new one.

If the electric motor gets hot from manual concrete mixer, then this may be caused by its overload or burning of the windings or jamming of the rotor. A multimeter will help determine the health of the electrical part of the engine. It is used to determine the integrity of the windings of a disconnected motor. If a break is detected, you will need to purchase new motor

. In general, the list of problems associated with the electric motor is quite wide. Often their elimination requires special knowledge.

Belt drive (with pulley or belt)

Tensioning the belt or changing it is convenient for two people. The features of the process are determined by the design of the concrete mixer being used. To change a worn-out plastic pulley, you will need to unscrew its fastenings after first removing the container.

Button for turning on the electric motor of a concrete mixer Also check if the start button is working properly a multimeter helps . To do this, the button must first be removed and the appropriate wiring disconnected. Afterwards you need to disassemble the button. If the starter coil is intact, then the problem is dirty contacts. It is enough to clean them with fine sandpaper

to restore the functionality of the button. The burnt coil will need to be replaced with a new one. Over time due to wear and tear holes form in the drum . They are covered in pieces sheet metal suitable size by welding or bolted connection . Not often, but it happens that the frame (bed) bursts. Fix the breakdown using welding machine

. You also rarely have to change wheels. To repair equipment yourself, you will need to use, instruments and accessories. An approximate list of them includes:

multimeter;
Bulgarian;
electric drill;
welding machine;
hammer;
pliers and round nose pliers;
spanners;
screwdrivers;
caliper, ruler or tape measure.

Replacing a bearing that has worn out requires the use of a special puller.

Constant loads, improper maintenance and care, wear and tear of parts over time lead to various types of problems with the concrete mixer. In this case, you can entrust the repair of a concrete mixer to specialists or do it yourself. In the latter case, if the unit is not under warranty, you will be able to save a significant amount. In order for the equipment in use to last a long time without breakdowns, it must not be overloaded. You also need to pay attention to the first signs of problems and eliminate them in a timely manner. The equipment should always be thoroughly cleaned to remove any remaining adhering solution.

With my own hands.

A short review

In general, I want to say that the concrete mixer is quite reliable. It has already withstood two “self-mixing” foundations, which is more than 100 m 3 of concrete, plus plinths for these houses, floors, and so on. They make it here in Russia, in the city of Lebedyan. Personally, I bought it from this factory. I immediately bought a couple of belts, a plastic driven pulley and a drive sprocket in reserve.

So, first things first:

Repair of concrete mixer button

The breakdown manifests itself by turning off the concrete mixer when the button is released. Simply put, press the green button - the stirrer turns. We let go - it, the infection, stops. This is not such a big deal, and the simplest breakdown, but also the most frequent. The fact is that this is not really a button, but a KJD17 magnetic starter. The thing is very convenient, unlike a simple switch, and is made for the sake of our safety. When the light is turned off, the starter button will open, and when the light is suddenly turned on, it (the stirrer) will no longer start suddenly and will not hurt the poor fellow builder, who at that time decided to stick his finger between the gears. That is, this is a simple “fool-proofing”. Treating the sore is quite simple.

Remove the casing on which the button hangs.

I have it gray, screwed with four screws... under Phillips screwdriver. Simply the height of engineering... Developers!!! Try it in field conditions unscrew these 4 screws!!! This is a concrete mixer, and picking out concrete from these “crosses” on self-tapping screws is a dubious pleasure!!! They don't remember you for this in the best words thousands of users!!! If only they put the imbus there with rubber plugs or something... In general, the first couple of times you can unscrew it with a screwdriver, and then only with pliers and swear words.

Okay, we opened it. Carefully remove the cover and see that 5 wires go to the starter from the inside.

Carefully disconnect them. Unscrew the button (it is also on two screws).

Now this button needs to be disassembled in order to clean the contacts that are inside. Use a thin screwdriver to press on the two latches, which are located above and below the button. Remove the front part. We see a small “penny” with a leg. The leg is slightly bent, so the “penny” must be placed as it was, otherwise it will not work. We take off the "nickel". On the reverse side you will most likely see a small black deposit. Because of this deposit, the mixer actually does not work as it should. We clean everything with fine sandpaper. We look at the core that comes into contact with this “nickle” and clean it too. We collect everything in reverse order. We rejoice at the new working day!

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the KJD17 magnetic starter is 5-pin. The fifth contact goes to the engine emergency thermostat and, at a certain elevated temperature, cuts off power from the motor.

Belt

The motor works, tries, buzzes cheerfully (obviously without signs of tearing or biting), but the stirrer does not turn. Let's fix it!

The belt is consumables like in a car. The SBR-132A is equipped with a 5РJ 610 (five-ribbed belt 610 mm long). Replacing it is simple. We remove the protective cover and disconnect the contacts from the starter so that it does not interfere. Slightly loosen the two bolts that are on the back side and secure the motor. Using your hands, lift the motor up a little and remove the belt. This is if it is still standing there))) Usually, if it buzzes and does not turn, then the stirrer has removed or broken the belt for you, and there is no need to remove anything. Dressed without special effort, first clings to the small pulley that is on the motor. Then it is pulled onto the top one. Then you need to tighten the belt. It's better to do this with a friend. A friend presses on the box, and you tighten the two bolts that you loosened before removing the belt.

Drive gear

The concrete mixer works, turns, and in order to prolong the life of the drive gear and rims, you need to get used to the fact that before starting a shift, all these things need to be thickly lubricated with lithol. Turn the bowl upside down, turn on the stirrer and spread lithol on the crowns with a spatula. The stirrer purrs contentedly, chewing and thereby showing that it is feeling good now))))

Jokes aside, sooner or later the gear will turn into this:

It will start to slip over the teeth of the crown and will not deliver much mass. pleasant impressions. It's time to change it! I don’t know where to buy, I buy it directly from the factory in Lebedyan, since it’s not far from us. The gear has 12 teeth and an internal hole for the shaft of 14 mm in diameter.

Replacement! If you have some skill, you don’t need to remove the bowl; just use a 10 mm wrench to unscrew the fixing bolt,

remove the washer and pull out the gear. Carefully! There is a small key there, you need not to lose it. In the photo above, everything is so easy and accessible, because the pear has been removed, and if you are too lazy to remove the pear, then you need to be smart and put in all the work fine motor skills fingers to fish it out from there. But it's real! Checked! 4 times already.

Pulley

The pulley is made of plastic. The shaft on which this pulley fits is round and milled on one side. So, the trouble is that when the hole on the pulley becomes completely round, it rotates freely on the shaft. Accordingly, the motor rotates, the pulley rotates, but the shaft does not ((((

It would seem, why change it, this pulley? I removed the cover from the motor box, as when replacing a belt, removed the belt and removed the pulley. It seems to be loose, but it won’t come off, even if you crack it. But the point is this: the pulley on the back of the box is secured with a retaining ring, so it doesn’t make much sense to make efforts to remove it without removing the box with the motor. Therefore, unscrew the two nuts and remove the two bolts that hold the box to the frame. The box will be removed along with the pulley and a bare shaft will remain. Now all that remains is to open and remove the retaining ring. The pulley will fall out on its own. It is completely unclear why the pulley cannot be made from something other than metal, but I heard out of the blue that modern SBR-132s have already begun to make metal ones. But these are rumors...

If you have already removed the entire box and seen the shaft, then it costs nothing to check it for wear on the bearings. Turn the shaft with your fingers, make a few revolutions, if everything is fine, then change the pulley and put everything back together, if something sticks and the shaft rotates unevenly, congratulations))) you’ve got to replace the bearings. Read the next paragraph.

Replacing bearings

There is a feeling that the stirrer has become old and it no longer has that former agility. It seems to turn quickly, but does not start the first time. When it jams, the engine no longer hums cheerfully, but rather hums strainedly. In general, there is a feeling that you need to buy a new stirrer, but everything is not so tragic. This is all due to a pair of bearings that stand on a shaft on which a pulley is attached on one side and a gear on the other. Here he is, our hero! And two old men who have outlived their usefulness)))

Is this a 203 bearing or international classification 6203. Costs as much as two loaves of sliced bread, so repairs are not very expensive. We remove the box with the motor, as in the case of replacing a pulley. We remove the concrete mixer bulb. I will tell you how to remove it in the next paragraph. Remove the drive gear (see above). And we are left alone with this situation.

On the gear side, squeeze the retaining ring and remove it. Since I don't have a suitable puller, the shaft had to be knocked out with brute force. To prevent the frame from springing, we had to use a high-tech device called a “board sawn to size”))) It looks something like this:

Unfortunately, I don't remember the size. In general, carefully but firmly, placing a piece of wood on the shaft so as not to bend it, we knock out the shaft along with the bearings.

Ultimately, we end up with a shaft in our hands on which two bearings hang, a sleeve between them the size of the outer race of the bearing and a small spacer sleeve. If you have a tool, then further manipulations are quite simple. If not, buy it - it will come in handy more than once!

We put the puller on the side where the gear was (hopefully, the key has already been pulled out) and press on the shaft, pulling out the bearings.

We replace the bearings with new ones, lubricate the shaft with lithol and also use a puller to put on the new bearings. Or you can select a tube that matches the diameter of the shaft, and carefully hammer them into place, knocking strictly on the inner race of the bearing.

How to remove a pear from a concrete mixer

Nothing complicated either, you need a gas wrench, an open-end wrench for 13 and our old friend - a three-legged puller...

Using a gas wrench, unscrew the lock nut, and then the nut securing the bulb.

Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the locking bolt on the side. Didn't the pear fall out?)) It's not scary! We install a three-legged puller and calmly squeeze out the shaft.

At some point the pear will fall out. There will be adjusting washers on the shaft, try not to get them loose.

That's all! If you have questions, ask in the comments. I didn’t take photos of everything, but as the renovation progresses, I’ll try to add more photos for clarity! Happy construction everyone!

Video on the topic

Most often, household members carry out repairs to concrete mixers and replace some parts with their own hands.

If your concrete mixer breaks down during construction, you can repair it yourself.

Breakdown of these units can be prevented through proper operation of the concrete mixer.

Causes of failure

The main reasons why an electrical system needs repairs are:

loading the unit in excess of the established norm;
failure to promptly clean the drum after each use of this unit;
lubrication of the ring gear;
not stored properly.

Often repairs need to be carried out due to wear of consumables:

V-belts and ridge belts;
drive gears;
off buttons.

The concrete mixer may break down due to improper use or wear of parts.

This is explained by the fact that the maximum load as a result of the operation of this unit falls on the transmission elements, which include the parts listed above. Support bearings and gears need to be replaced less frequently. This is due to their long service life.

As for the gear, improper operation leads to its wear. A big mistake made by many owners of such equipment is to lubricate the ring and gear in order to reduce the load on the motor. In fact, the load in this case increases significantly. During operation, cement and sand adhere to the teeth, which increases friction and rapid abrasion of the metal.

In addition to physical wear and tear, an electric concrete mixer breaks down due to insufficient cooling, overloading, or due to a gearbox malfunction. In this case, the repair consists of replacing this part, taking into account technical characteristics broken gearbox. However, even specialists cannot always repair it. In such a situation, the entire node changes. This kind of work can be done with your own hands.

The power button often breaks

A significant mechanical load is also placed on the ring gear. This part is made of plastic or cast iron. Often cast iron crowns fail during operation. The main reason failure is due to poor casting quality. For this reason, experts advise installing plastic gears. These products are not integral elements of the entire structure. They are presented in the form of separate sectors. This allows you to replace only those parts that are faulty with your own hands. Due to contact and rubbing of the mixer body with concrete, this part also needs to be replaced.

The power button on a concrete mixer often breaks. When you press it, the unit’s motor starts, but after a couple of minutes it stops. In this case, it is recommended to install a new button. You can do this yourself. The main nuance in this matter is the purchase of a button with the appropriate number of contacts.

Violations and errors

When using concrete mixers, their owners most often ignore the following requirements:

To repair a concrete mixer, you will need a set of tools for repairing electrical equipment, it includes: screwdrivers, tester, current indicator, adjustable wrenches.

The electric model must operate at the voltage indicated in the passport of this unit. Minor voltage surges or prolonged operation at a voltage different from the rated voltage can lead to motor failure. When preparing the solution, you should adhere to the recommended mixing rate, otherwise the concrete mixer will fail.
Moisture when entering electric control of this unit violates its tightness, rendering the concrete mixer unusable.
Conducting regular Maintenance with your own hands, which consists of cleaning the open components of the mechanism from residual solution, dirt and dust.

In any case, you can repair a concrete mixer yourself only if you have the proper experience and the appropriate tools:

flat and figured screwdrivers;
tester;
current indicator;
adjustable wrenches.

Since an electric concrete mixer is a high-risk device, it is not recommended to repair it yourself without reading the operating instructions and recommendations from the manufacturer.