DIY wooden children's stool. Children's high chairs: options, patterns, sizes, with and without a table, folding

For large quantities modern materials, wood still does not lose its relevance. This is especially true for furniture for children. Of course, you can buy a children's wooden chair in a store, but they are often made of plywood and do not differ high quality. And children's wooden adjustable chairs made from good hardwood are very expensive. To give your child a durable, beautiful and comfortable high chair without spending a lot of money, you should make it yourself. Total exists big variety models, but in the article we'll talk about three main ones: a regular high chair, a transformer and a high chair for feeding.

DIY wooden children's chair

Before you start manufacturing, you must remember that children's furniture must be safe for health. She shouldn't have sharp corners, have a perfectly smooth surface, without cracks, cracks or gaps, and must also be durable and reliable.

The optimal height of the back of a children's high chair is 55 cm, the seat is 32 cm. You can attach the parts different ways: for self-tapping screws, nails, dowels (at least 2 pieces for each joint) or wooden tenons. Let's consider the last option.

To fasten the structure, strong hidden rectangular tenons are used, which are placed in the grooves with glue. For maximum reliability, the tenons, in addition to glue, are fixed in the grooves with through dowels with a diameter of 6 to 35 mm.

List of parts and materials

Top crossbar(1) 1.9x4.1x16.5 cm - 1 pc.
Back leg(2) 3x3x55 cm - 2 pcs.
Carved crossbar(3) 1.4x4.1x16.5 cm - 1 pc.
Middle crossbar (4) 1.4x2.9x16.5 cm - 1 pc.
Boards for the seat (5) 1.4x10.5x26.3 cm - 2 pcs.
Bottom crossbar(6) 1.4x2.9x16.5 cm - 1 pc.
Side crossbar and drawer (7) 1.4x2.9x17.7 cm - 4 pcs.
Front leg (8) 3x3x30.5 cm - 2 pcs.
Front crossbar and drawer (9) 1.4x2.9x19.5 cm - 2 pcs.

For the rear and front legs, straight-layered pine bars with a cross-section of 3x3 cm are used. Starting from the seat upward, the rear legs should narrow to 1.9 cm. And the front legs - from the seat to the bottom to 2.4x2.4 cm.

Important! Only the outer edges can be planed. This is necessary so that the inner edges of all legs remain parallel to each other, which will ensure easy installation of the drawers and crossbars.

The front edge of the top crossbar should be rounded, and the carved edge can have any pattern, but it is advisable to avoid sharp corners.

The middle crossbar is installed so that its lower edge is flush with the seat.

First of all, the back pair of legs is glued together, as well as all the crossbars. Next, a pair of front legs and a crossbar are connected, after which they are connected to each other with drawers and crossbars.

All gluing points are compressed with clamps, but with obligatory control of right angles. To do this, you can use a carpenter's square. The seat planks are attached last. Their reliability is especially important, therefore, after the glue has completely dried, they are additionally strengthened with wooden dowels, for which holes must be drilled. The protruding ends are removed with a chisel.

Children's wooden transforming chair

It is a set of children's table and chair that can be transformed into different positions. This is a single desk for studying and a comfortable chair for feeding. It folds up quite compactly, which is especially important for small apartments.

Necessary parts for the high chair:

legs 39 cm - 4 pcs.;
rounded corners - 4 pcs.;
upper crossbars 22 cm - 2 pcs.;
crossbars 34 cm - 2 pcs.;
diameter 30 cm - 3 pcs.;
seat base 20x30 cm - 1 pc.

Details for the table:

legs 50 cm - 4 pcs.;
strips 41 cm - 4 pcs.;
diameter 34 cm - 4 pcs.;
table top 45x38 cm - 1 piece.

For legs, slats, crossbars and crossbars, it is best to use timber with a section of 2x4 cm, and for the tabletop and seat, plywood 1.8 cm thick is suitable. Rounded corners are cut from boards 2 cm thick. As mentioned above, the wood must be well dried and have no knots or cracks.

Making a chair frame

All parts will be attached to each other with glue, but to ensure higher strength, wooden dowels measuring 2x5 cm should also be used. They can be easily made with your own hands from plywood 8 mm thick.

For each dowel, a special groove is made at the connection points. First, using a drill (6 mm drill), the ends are drilled in the place where the dowel will be laid, and then the groove is directly selected with a chisel 8 mm thick. But before installing it, all connections must be coated with glue.

Thus, the side parts of the future chair are assembled, tightened with clamps (making sure that the angle is exactly 90 degrees) and left until the glue dries completely. Below is a drawing of a children's wooden chair.

After this, they must be sanded well until the surface is smooth.

Making the back and seat

The back and seat are made of 25x30 cm in size from 2-3 sheets of plywood glued together. It is advisable to round all corners. Foam rubber is glued to them and everything is covered with a fabric cover. Before installing them on the chair frame, they are fastened together with metal brackets.

Now let's start assembling the chair. First, two finished sidewalls are connected using planks. Fastening is carried out using the technology already described. The seat itself rests on slats, and to secure it you will need cylindrical dowels or screws. Then the lower strips and the back strip are installed, on which the backrest will be mounted. After all work has been completed, the chair should be left to dry.

In addition to the main table, you can also make a small tabletop. It is especially convenient for feeding or playing with small children. To make it you will need plywood sheet, from which the tabletop is cut required size. It is attached to the armrests using glue and dowels. But it makes more sense to attach it with self-tapping screws; this will allow you to easily dismantle it if desired.

Making a table

The technology for assembling the table is absolutely identical to assembling the chair. Therefore, there is no need to describe it in detail; you just need to focus on the main stages. First, the side parts of the table are assembled and sanded, then they are connected by transverse strips and sanded again.

When the children's wooden transformable chair is ready, it is coated with several layers of varnish.

High children's wooden feeding chair

Making furniture with your own hands is a labor-intensive process. Nowadays it’s easier to buy ready-made or order it than to make it yourself. But there are times when a thing is needed a short time or there is no way to pay a lot of money for it. One option is a high chair for feeding your baby. The tip below will tell you how to make one from an old chair with your own hands.

Children's wooden chair assembly diagram

To make it you need the simplest chair with a backrest. It is very good if it has. It is important that it has crossbars between the legs and is strong and reliable. In the future, turning it over, the back will serve as the front legs of the future chair. Next, you will need strong wooden slats the size of the height of the chair; we fix them as shown in the figure. So, we get a back pair of legs, which are fastened together with a strap. To achieve maximum stability, the rear legs must be attached at an angle that is selected individually. Then all the legs are fastened together with horizontal strips.

The frame of the future chair is ready. You can make it more convenient to use by attaching smoothly sanded boards or a sheet of plywood as a seat. A soft seat is placed on top of it. Small smooth boards are used for the back and table top.

That's all, the chair is ready.

It doesn’t matter how the baby is assembled wooden high chair, the main thing is that it should be comfortable and safe for the child. So that the finished chair and table have an aesthetic appearance and last as long as possible, they are covered with a protective paint and varnish composition in several layers. Besides this, everything wooden parts can be decorated with bright designs, which are applied with a simple brush or sponge through a stencil.

For seat upholstery it is optimal to use artificial leather, so it is easy to clean. This is especially true for young children. It is desirable that the back of the chair also has soft upholstery made of waterproof fabric.

All wooden parts must be carefully processed before assembly. sandpaper, first coarse-grained, then fine-grained, until a perfectly smooth surface is obtained.

If the chair is assembled with self-tapping screws, their caps are recessed and closed with plastic plugs matched to the color.

In addition, you can get creative and make the chair colorful and interesting for a child, choosing bright upholstery fabric, and painting all wooden parts oil paint bright colors.

Or you can entrust the design to the future owner of the chair itself.

Children's wooden chairs photo

A small wooden stool will find a use in every home. Children run around with great joy in these chairs. Sitting on such a stool is convenient for peeling potatoes and performing other “sedentary” work. However, not many people decide to buy a small stool due to the fact that there is always a more important waste of financial resources. But almost everyone can make a small wooden chair with their own hands. To make it you will need a jigsaw and a little imagination.

Preparation.
Manufacturing of parts, grinding.

Painting.

Preparation.
Preparation of material and necessary tools plays an important role and saves time in the future. To make a stool we will need:
- hewn board measuring 800x200x25 mm (dimensions are approximate, you can proceed from what is available),
- 8 shiny screws (50-60 mm),
- sandpaper,
- jigsaw,
- screwdriver or screwdriver,
- paint and varnish on wood,
- tape measure, pencil and corner.

You need to start by marking the board. First of all, using a corner, a pencil and a tape measure, mark a rectangular segment without knots 32-33 cm long. This will be top part our high chair. Next, we mark two segments of 23 cm each - these will be the sides. Now it is advisable to give them some kind of curly pattern. You can use any objects that have a circle for this, simply outlining them with a pencil. But, this method involves an irrational waste of time. After all, you will have to mark the center and other dimensions in each side. Therefore, for the sides it is better to use a pattern pre-cut from thick cardboard or other material. It will allow you to easily and quickly mark a large number of sides. Just attach the pattern and trace it with a pencil.

By the way, the use of a figured pattern on the side not only gives them beautiful view, but also allows you to trim off all unwanted knots.
And immediately mark the jumper. It should be trapezoidal in shape and have sides of 230 and 220 mm. The width of the jumper is not important - from 80 to 120 mm.

So, has a marked board.

Important! You should not draw too thick lines - this affects the evenness of the trim. And the pencil is not so easy to erase.

Using a jigsaw we cut out all our parts. Evenness is important here. To trim the cut evenly, it is better to guide the tool blade not along the line, but to the side of it.

You can learn how to cut evenly using unnecessary waste. So, let's cut out all the details.

This will give the product not only a beautiful look, but will also hide all possible irregularities in the cutting.
Next, we carefully sand all these parts with fine sandpaper. Carry out this procedure exactly at this stage most rationally, since when grinding finished design a number of inconveniences may arise. It is convenient to sand smooth surfaces by putting sandpaper on wooden block, on either manual machine for grouting putty. The main thing is quality, since after painting all defects will appear and be visible.
This is what sanded and unpolished sides look like.

So, it has the same parts, but ready for assembly.

It is advisable to carry out the assembly in this order:
- connect the sides with the jumper (1 screw on each side);
- place this structure on a flat surface and screw on the top cover (2 screws on each side);
- We strengthen the connection of the sides with the jumper (1 more screw each).

The chair is assembled! We check it again on a flat plane. If the stool is a little wobbly, then we tighten the legs until the product is completely stable.

Painting.
Before painting, we check the product again for defects, and if necessary, erase them and pencil residues. Using a brush, we clean the stool from wood dust and begin painting.
Here “there is no comrade to taste and color”! You can leave the natural color of the wood by painting it with clear varnish. You can give the product a certain color using a variety of wood paints, which are abundant in all hardware stores. In principle, one coat is enough for painting. But, if, after the first layer has completely dried, the surfaces are lightly sanded again with fine sandpaper and a new layer of varnish is applied, the shine of the product will noticeably increase.
Important! Poorly sanded ends absorb more paint and become darker.

This is what the finished chair looks like, varnished.

We assemble a growing chair with our own hands.
I think it would be superfluous to once again talk about the relevance of the problem of maintaining correct posture in children. One of the most important conditions is to ensure correct sitting posture, which depends on many parameters. Regular chairs will not work. Unfortunately, office chairs with gas lift are also not able to solve this problem, since they do not have an adjustable footrest or seat reach adjustment, and adjusting the seat height and backrest angle alone is not enough. In such a situation, special adjustable chair will be a great solution!

You can find many on the Internet various options for every taste. From all the variety I chose the design I liked.

The design is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. She is very technologically advanced. It is important to take into account the ratio of the sizes of the elements, their relative position, the strength and stability of the entire structure. Of course, we couldn’t find any drawings on the manufacturer’s website or on the Internet. Therefore, I had to develop the drawings myself. All the more interesting. The design took several days.

Unfortunately, I don’t have a plotter at my disposal to output images of the required size, and the program I worked with doesn’t know how to print large images in parts (or I simply couldn’t figure out how to do it). Therefore, we had to solve the problem in a roundabout way. Part drawings were saved as regular high-resolution photographs. Further using free program PosteRazor are converted into PDF documents containing drawings at the required scale and divided into separate A4 sheets.

Do I have the right to publish them? Am I violating someone's copyright? After all, I saw the chair on the Internet and someone was designing it! Let's figure it out.

This situation can be looked at from two points of view: ethical and legal. We will omit the ethical side of the issue, because a whole range of well-reasoned opinions is possible here and most likely it will not be possible to arrive at the truth. But from a legal point of view, the search for truth is not so hopeless.

So, legally, a chair cannot be an object of copyright. In this case, according to the Civil Code, it can be either a utility model or industrial design, which are recognized and protected only if state registration, on the basis of which the federal executive authority for intellectual property issues a patent. There is no mention of any patents on the manufacturer’s website; most likely, no one patented this chair. To be honest, I don’t see what can be patented there - in comparison with analogues, there is no particular novelty or originality. Although the design is quite successful. And I didn’t find it on www.freepatent.ru. This means that I will not violate anyone’s patent rights for lack of any.

But drawings, according to the Administrative Code, are objects of copyright and are protected without any registration by default, as a type of work visual arts, (computer programs, by the way, like literary works). The drawings I have developed are not an exact copy of the original, which is not available to me, but are the result of intellectual work and reflect my vision of the design, common features which I saw in photographs. And as an author, I have every right to publish the results of my work. Unlike those who, without permission or a link to the source, post articles from my blog on their websites to attract visitors. You have to put copyright on the photos.

Well enough tediousness, it's time to get down to business!
Drawings of a growing chair can be downloaded from the link: https://yadi.sk/d/-nS9on3WmbxdF
If there is no detail in the archive, then its description will be further in the text.

We print them as usual multi-page document on A4 sheets. At the same time, in the Acrobat Reader Print Wizard, it is important not to forget to specify the “Actual Size” scale. As a result, after gluing together the individual sheets, we get a drawing of the part on a scale of 1:1.

We cut out the drawing of the racks along the contour and paste it onto a sheet of plywood.

Plywood with a thickness of 22 mm was chosen as the material for the racks. We cut out the first part, departing 5 mm from the contour. In general, the quality and accuracy of the cut are not very important. If only there was some reserve left.

Now the resulting rough edges of the workpiece must be aligned exactly according to the drawing. I usually use the term “combing” to refer to this action. To do this, we press a flat strip against the workpiece along the line of the drawing and go along the edge with a copy cutter with an upper bearing. I processed the fillets by guiding the router with my hands, followed by adjusting the fillets. grinder. You can spend more time on this preparation, because... it will serve as a template and the quality of the remaining racks depends on the quality of its processing.

Now, having a template, we mark and cut out the remaining blanks for the racks

Next, use self-tapping screws to secure the template to the workpieces. To tighten the screws, we make holes in the template in the places where there will be holes for attaching the seat and footrest. In this case, the head of the twisted self-tapping screw should not protrude from the template.

And using a copy cutter we align the edges of the workpiece according to the template.

Using a router inserted into the table, we make a groove in which the elements that secure the seat and footrest will move. For simplicity, I decided to call them runners. The groove depth is 10 mm, the groove width is 24 mm (it might be more convenient to make the groove width equal to the width of the existing plywood - 22 mm, but there was no such cutter in the workshop).

In the middle of the groove we make holes at equal distances. On the back side of the workpiece, where the drill exits, you must place a block so that the drill does not break out the bottom layer of veneer. It will be extremely difficult to close or disguise such a chip.

We do the same with the runners. We print the drawing in real size, cut it out and paste it onto a sheet of plywood. Next, we cut it out with a margin and “comb it” as we did with the stand template.

From the same sheet of 22 mm plywood, using a jigsaw, we roughly cut out future runners with a margin.

We use the same self-tapping screws to fix the template on the workpiece.

And on milling table Using a copy cutter, we align the edges of the workpieces according to the template.

Using an edge moulder, we round the edges on all the resulting parts. Rounding radius 4.8 mm.

Next, a rail is cut out, with the help of which the runners engage with the groove on the racks. Rail height 20 mm, width 24 mm. Because I didn’t have either 20 mm or 24 mm plywood, so it was decided to make the slats from solid ash. This wood has excellent strength characteristics.

A corresponding groove was made in the runners on the milling table and slats were glued into it. At the same time, when you make a gutter, you must not forget that there are right and left runners.

After the glue has dried, the slats are sawn and ground flush with the runner body. There are also holes made in the runners for fixing them on the racks.

The runners also have gutters milled parallel to the floor. Gutter depth 10 mm, width 16 mm. These gutters will hold the seats and footrests. In the next photo you can see the finished runners.

We do the same with the seat and footrest templates: print the drawing, glue it onto plywood and cut out the blank.

In order to make even roundings, I used a thin strip of 5 mm plywood, passed between the screws that set the desired radius. It bends well and creates smooth transitions. How this is done can be seen in the photo:

As a result, we get two templates - footrests (left) and seats (right). Next, we work with them according to the already worked out scheme - we mark the blanks (we trace the templates with a pencil) and cut them out using a jigsaw with an indentation of 5 mm. 16 mm plywood was used for them, although 22 mm is also possible. We fix the template on the workpiece using self-tapping screws and work out the edges with a copy cutter. Having ready-made templates the whole operation takes a few minutes. Remaining on finished parts small holes self-tapping screws can either be simply ignored due to their small size, or hidden using putty during the grinding stage. Personally, I took the first path. Don't forget to round the edges using an edge bevel cutter.

The template for the back was made “on the spot”. That's why there is no drawing of the backrest. I made the top and bottom edges according to the seat template. Back height 100 mm, Width 464 mm (depth of groove for backrest in racks 10 mm). After the template is ready, we make a couple of backs using it using a jigsaw and a copy cutter in a few minutes.

There are three bars in total in the chair. They are made from the same 22mm sheet. The dimensions of the crossbars fixing the runners are 399x50x22 mm. The lower crossbar (in the lower part near the floor) - 444x30x22 mm. Using a 10 mm straight cutter, we make grooves for countersunk furniture nuts - barrels.

Next, we make a groove for the backrest. The angle of the backrest was chosen in accordance with GOST 19301.2-94. "Children's preschool furniture..." The angle of the backrest is at least 5 degrees or more. My chair has an angle of 11 degrees - it seems to me a very comfortable angle.

We get a small pile of parts

Each chair is assembled using hex bolts and countersunk furniture barrel nuts. The bolts have dimensions 6x70 and 6x50, nuts - 10x20 and 10x12. The mounting kit is shown in the photo.

Ready. As they say, “it seems true.” During assembly, the quality of workmanship and fit of parts is checked, minor defects are eliminated, and “finishing with a file” is carried out. At this point, the sawing, drilling and milling stage is completed.

The sanding and painting stage begins. Now the chairs are completely disassembled and all parts are sanded before coating. I used 180 paper. In some places I had to fiddle with 80 and even 40.

Painting work is a separate discipline. Bad finishing coat can ruin the whole job. Winter outside and lack of heating in the workshop made adjustments to the usual process. I had to paint the chair right at home. Therefore, neither a spray gun nor multi-component smelly varnishes can be used - only non-smelling varnishes water-based varnish and a brush.

Because The chair was made from leftover plywood, some parts were dirty. Unfortunately, it was not possible to completely get rid of them by sanding, so I decided to cover one chair dark color- “mahogany”, the second - glossy opaque milky enamel. Only the first one is ready so far. The second, dairy, is waiting for its time.

If, after applying the first layer of varnish, the color applied unevenly, the parts are covered with bald spots due to different degrees of absorption, the pile has risen and the surface has become like sandpaper, and in general it all looks terrible and you want to throw it all away, then you are on the right track. After the first layer has dried (after three or four hours), we take 180-grit sandpaper and sand all the raised pile. Next we put on a second layer, after drying the surface became a little better - there was no lint and the color went on more evenly, but it was still far from the picture on the label of the varnish can. Therefore, we matte the parts with the same sandpaper and apply a third layer. There's a fourth behind him. And so on. We continue until the result satisfies you. For this I needed five layers, which took two days.

The growing chair is ready. The cost of two chairs is a sheet of plywood 1500x1500 mm, 22 mm thick, fasteners for 50 rubles. and a can of varnish. This also includes electricity, depreciation of fixed assets, and worker’s wages.

I saw similar designs on Amazon for 250 US dollars - not a price, but some kind of tin. With us they are, of course, much cheaper.

Despite the dubious design, the design is quite thoughtful.
This is not just a children's chair, it is more like office furniture for a schoolchild. Because it is schoolchildren who spend many hours first doing lessons, and then computer games and the correct comfortable posture for posture, less fatigue and preservation of vision is important for them. At the same time, schoolchildren are also actively growing.

For greater comfort, you can make removable soft pads for the seat and back. As an option. But I don’t see any particular need - usually school furniture no pillows. Armrests are also not particularly necessary, because when writing or working on the keyboard, the elbows should rest freely on the table so as not to cause tension in the shoulders. All these calculations are described in a whole variety of GOSTs and the growing chair corresponds to them. Overall, I'm pleased with the result.

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Furniture for a children's room should be of high quality, environmentally friendly, and hypoallergenic. But many manufacturers do not pay attention to the increased requirements for children's furniture - they use low-quality materials and make the fastenings unreliable. Using such furniture may harm your child. This is why some parents come to the conclusion that it is worth doing children's table and a DIY chair. Moreover, assembling it is not so difficult.

Materials

Of course, when choosing material for children's furniture, you should opt for natural solid wood. Wooden table and the chair will not only be a decoration in the children's room, but also environmentally friendly, will not cause allergies, and will become practical pieces of furniture.

It is better to make a table and chair from beech wood. It is easy to process and does not release resin. But how a budget option Pine or birch are quite suitable, but they need to be deresined, since the resin is unsafe for a child, and it can ruin clothes.

Plywood, like the most cheap material, is also quite acceptable when making a highchair. It can easily bear the weight of a child, is lightweight, and can be easily processed.

Chipboard is a very fragile material and can only be suitable for a tabletop.

Alternatively, you can build a table and chair from plastic bottles. At the same time, you practically do not need to invest money, and if exposed to weather conditions, such a kit will not suffer.

Preparation

Initially, you need to make detailed drawings with all dimensions. Please note that when planning furniture for a child, you should not make sharp corners that the child can touch while active games could get hurt.

If you're not entirely sure about stability, make a 1:1 scale model out of cardboard before making the wood pieces.

To fasten parts together, you can use spikes and glue, but for the reliability of the structure it is better to use self-tapping screws and corners of various shapes.

Material processing

Before assembly, all parts must be processed. To do this, you can use an electric planer, or sand the wood with sandpaper.

Then you can treat it with various dyes such as stain, rather than simply highlight the texture of the wood or paint it.

If you want to varnish your products, it is better to choose one based on turpentine. It does not contain toxic substances and will not harm your child's health. After you have coated the parts with varnish, you need to sand it with sandpaper. And then cover finishing layer varnish In this case, the wood will be well protected, and the shine will not disappear for many years.

Making a regular chair and table

To assemble a regular chair, we need to cut out the following parts:

Short legs - 2 pieces, length 25 cm, cross-section 3.3 x 3.8 cm.
Long legs - 2 pieces, height 53 cm, cross-section 3.3x3.8 cm.
Back - 1 piece, size 10x30 cm.
Seat - 1 piece, size 30x30 cm.

Crossbars for tying a chair under the seat - 2 pieces, 25.7 cm long, 2 pieces 25.2 cm long.

In this case, the legs should have a narrowing from the middle of the chair. For long ones, reduce the thickness towards the top to 1.9 cm, and short ones - towards the bottom to 2.4 cm. This is necessary so that the front legs do not interfere with the legs, and the back is at a slight angle.

First, we attach the rear legs; to do this, we screw the crossbar between them with self-tapping screws. We do the same with the front ones and fasten them together.

Then we screw the back. We check that all details are clear horizontal mount. Otherwise, the aesthetic appearance of the chair will not be very good.

At the end of the assembly, screw the seat.

For the table we need 4 legs, a frame made from the same block. We make them from a block and the table top is made from plywood or chipboard. The sizes here depend on your wishes and the height of the child.

We assemble the harness, attach the legs to the corners and screw the tabletop on top. The table is ready. The size of the screw must be carefully selected, otherwise you can drill right through the tabletop, which will ruin the aesthetic appearance and may injure your child.

Making a chair from plywood

Since plywood is easy to process. It's easy to make a carved chair out of it.

In order to make it you will need:

Sheet of plywood, 8 mm thick.
Drill, jigsaw.
Drill, screws.
Sandpaper.
PVA glue.
Colorless varnish based on turpentine.

Based on our dimensions, we transfer the drawing of the chair onto a sheet of plywood. You can use a jigsaw to cut unusually shaped holes, which will give interesting view high chair.

In order for the sides of the chair to be completely identical, you must first cut out one, then trace it on a sheet of plywood so that the second side wall completely coincided with the first one.

You can make them in the form of an elephant. It will work out original design high chair.

After all the parts are cut out, the sections must be carefully sanded using sandpaper.

We assemble the chair, to do this we attach the seat and back with glue, and secure everything with self-tapping screws.

We coat the chair with varnish.

Making a baby high chair

The simplest model of this chair is a transformer, which can easily be folded into a separate small table and a chair.

We make the base from solid wood, the back and seat of the chair from plywood. The tabletop is made of laminated chipboard.

We will need a wooden block with a section of 20x40 mm, laminated chipboard, size 200x340 for the table top on the chair and 450x380 mm on the table, plywood for the seat. In the absence of laminated chipboard, countertops can also be made from plywood.

First we assemble the table. We make two frames from the bars. We connect them with crossbars so that later the chair legs can be inserted between them. Screw the tabletop.

The chair is made in the same way as a regular chair, only we use plywood for the seat and back, onto which you can sew an oilcloth cover and insert foam rubber for softness. This will make it easy to wash the high chair if your baby gets it dirty with food, and will not allow the foam rubber to get wet.

Other types

You can also make garden furniture from plastic bottles. To do this, select bottles of the same size. A 1 liter capacity is quite sufficient for a child. We wrap it with tape to form a seat. To ensure a smooth surface, cover wooden box. All that remains is to sew a leatherette cover, and an excellent stool for the garden is ready.

How to decorate

Even the best quality handmade furniture may not please your child. Therefore, it needs to be decorated. You can use different methods for this.

Bright paint. This is the simplest method. Before varnishing, you can paint the table and chair with bright paint, thereby attracting the child’s attention.

If you have the ability to draw, you can draw various cartoon characters or simply apply a child's drawing.

If your chair does not look very beautiful, but is reliable, then all the flaws can be hidden by sewing a fabric cover. It can always be washed if necessary.

Another method of decorating a chair is stickers. You can buy them ready-made or make them yourself from self-adhesive film using a stencil.

Design

You can make any chairs and tables with your own hands, as long as your imagination and ability to use tools is enough.

It all started when I had a daughter :) Now she is 1.3 years old and she has already learned to deftly sit on daddy’s lap and read a book. Each child, like an adult, should have his own chair. Searches in children's stores were unsuccessful; the chairs were all plastic and large or with a hole for a potty. We needed a normal high chair for a very little girl.

Here is a chair, made with my own hands in a couple of evenings, not a work of art, but very comfortable and my daughter loved it!

There were no drawings initially, everything was done by eye.

In the photo, my daughter is already sitting on the new chair:)

High chair made of 8 mm plywood. The parts are glued together with PVA glue, several screws and the entire structure is coated with colorless varnish in one layer. The weight of the chair is 715 grams, the child can easily drag it around the apartment.

The height from the floor to the seat is 180 mm, the size of the seat cover is 240x190 mm, the height of the chair from the floor to the upper edge of the back is 360 mm, the dimensions of the back are 235x115 mm.

The test version of the chair was made from cardboard in three minutes. It was made in order to get approximate dimensions and understand how comfortable it would be for a child. It didn’t work out very well to sit the baby on this chair, but in terms of size it turned out to be just right!

To make the second part of the chair, I simply traced the first part with a pencil and also cut it out with a jigsaw.

By the way, I need to say something about connecting parts. Initially, I planned to do everything without screws and nails, and since I did everything impromptu, there were some mistakes. In the photo below you can see that the parts have spikes, on the part on the right one spike is missing, I forgot to draw it and sawed it off :)

I also sawed off the tenon on the part on the left later, so the back had to be secured with screws.

Below in the photo is a detail of the back and a detail that is located under the seat; it prevents the chair from swaying. This part should also have spikes, which I also forgot about :)

After all the parts of the chair are cut, everything needs to be cleaned with sandpaper, I spent a lot of time on this so that not a single scrape was made! Afterwards, we glue everything with PVA glue or screw it together with screws, if suddenly you, like me, forget to make spikes :) And finally, we cover the product with a layer of varnish or, as is now fashionable, we do decoupage. I would like to paint the chair with bright colored paints, but for now I will leave it as a pure wood color.

Update: I cut several of these chairs using CNC, so I had to transfer the drawings to AutoCAD.

Alice: “But I’ll still sit on daddy’s chair!”:)

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