Sewer riser. Rules for installing and replacing sewer system risers Repair of a cast iron sewer riser in an apartment

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Sewer riser in an apartment: 5 typical problems and their solutions

What's happened sewer riser, dear reader, I think there is no need to explain. But how it is structured, who is responsible for its safety and repair - these are questions that are relevant for many residents of municipal and privatized apartments. I will try to answer these questions, and at the same time tell you how you can solve typical problems of sewer risers with your own hands.

Areas of responsibility

Repair and replacement

First, let's figure out who should change the sewer riser in an apartment when it wears out (for example, if the socket of a cast-iron pipe begins to crumble or the ear under the inspection cover falls off).

Resolution No. 354 of the Government of the Russian Federation in paragraph 5 provides a list of elements of the sewer system related to the common property of residents.

The list includes:

• Sewer outlets;
• Risers and branches from them to the first butt joint;
• Exhaust (exhaust) pipes;
• Cleanings (audits).

The riser (that is, pipes, tees and crosses mounted on a vertical channel for drainage) belongs to the area of ​​responsibility of the housing organization or service company, regardless of the type of housing ownership (state, municipal or privatized).

There are, however, a couple of nuances here.

1. Tenants have the right to refuse to make repairs to you if you do not pay the rent. An exception is a situation where the emergency condition of the riser can lead to flooding of neighbors. However, in this case, the management company can replace the defective section of the riser with a tee or cross with a smooth pipe, plugging the outlet to your apartment;

1. Who should repair a riser that you previously replaced yourself? If the act drawn up by representatives of the management company indicates that the leak is a consequence of the residents’ independent intervention in the work utility networks at home, all the consequences of the accident (including compensation for flooded neighbors) will fall on your head. If the act states that the leak is a consequence of natural wear and tear of the riser, all repair costs are again borne by the housing owners.

If you change pipes yourself, be prepared for the fact that all their problems will now become yours.

Blockages

Any clogged riser is a problem for the management company. Both because the riser belongs to common property, and because if the same floor rag becomes clogged, it is impossible to unambiguously determine its owner.

Even if the blockage occurred between the top and second floors from above, the owners of the upper apartment can quite rightly point out that the drain on the roof is accessible to any visitor to the roof.

In my practice, there were several cases when the cause of a clogged riser was actually garbage (including large ones) thrown into the sewer from the roof.
Among the most exotic cases was a jar made of thick glass.
To remove it, I had to open the cast iron riser.

Device

Alas, it is not always possible for an apartment owner to emergency situation wait for active actions from the management company. Sometimes you have to take matters into your own hands. To understand how to change the sewer riser in an apartment and how to solve some typical sewerage problems, it is advisable to have a good understanding of the structure of the riser.

Elements

In the photo - the terminals of the risers on the roof apartment building.

Description

The riser is assembled from socketed cast iron or plastic (PVC, polypropylene, less often polyethylene) pipes. The neck of each pipe must be secured to the main wall with a clamp. The fastening is designed to prevent spontaneous uncoupling of socket joints.

Connections of pipes to each other and to shaped elements (tees, bends, etc.) are made airtight. Sealing prevents sewage leaks due to blockages and the penetration of fetid sewer fumes into apartments.

Tightness is ensured:

• In case of cast iron pipes— chasing the socket with a heel (organic fiber impregnated with oil or bitumen) followed by sealing the socket with cement mortar. Filling the socket with molten sulfur is less commonly used;

It is best to mint a cast iron socket yourself using a graphite gland.
It is more durable than the heel and does not require sealing with mortar.

• When plastic pipes - rubber ring seal. It is installed in a groove on the inside of the socket and tightly covers the pipe inserted into it.

In the basement, the riser turns into a drainage pipe - a horizontal sewer branch connecting several risers with an outlet to the well. It is brought to the roof by a straight pipe of the same diameter that is used between floors; In new buildings, it is common practice to combine 2 - 4 risers with a common drain pipe.

Cleaning inspections should be located:

• In the basement or, in its absence, on the first floor of the house;
• Upstairs;
• In five-story or more tall buildings- every three floors.

Problems and solutions

Replacing the riser between floors

How to replace a sewer riser in an apartment if the tightness of the straight section between the floors, limited by socket joints, is broken?

We will need:

• A straight pipe (or several pipes) with a total length equal to or slightly less than the length of the section to be replaced;
• Compensating pipe.

Plastic pipes can be installed in the gap of a cast iron riser.
To align the plastic socket with a smooth cast iron pipe the surface of the latter should be thoroughly cleaned from layers of paint and rust using a sharp knife or a metal brush.
Replacing a section of a plastic riser with cast iron pipes is impossible.

All work with the sewer riser begins with thoughtful communication with the upper neighbors up to the top floor. They should be asked not to use the plumbing for 1 to 3 hours.

If you have access to the basement, take the time to turn off the cold and hot water along the riser, hanging signs on the valves with the inscription “work in progress in apartment No. ***.” In addition, prepare a deep basin or bucket. My experience shows that among the residents there will always be someone who has forgotten your request and used the toilet.

The procedure is as follows:

If the lower bell is located in the ceiling, it is not necessary to open it. Just add to the list of what you need sewer coupling. After the defective area above the ceiling is cut out, it is put on down tube with pre-removed external chamfer. Further actions are identical to those described above.

Replacing the riser in the ceiling

How is a sewer riser replaced in an apartment if the socket inside the ceiling is damaged?

The most labor-intensive part of the operation is dismantling the ceiling itself. Fortunately, reinforced concrete slab There is no need to chisel: the risers are passed through a technological hole in it and sealed with cement-sand mortar. However, you still have to tinker.

The work begins with dismantling the toilet and all fragile interior items in the lower and upper apartments. If the lower toilet is installed with cement or glue, only the tank is dismantled; the bowl is covered with boards, plywood boards and other available materials. The top toilet almost always has to be removed: the tee or crosspiece to which it is connected must be replaced.

The seal of the riser in the ceiling can be dismantled:

• Jackhammer;
• Hammer;
• Hammer and chisel.

For this purpose, I used an improvised chisel 40 - 50 cm long, made from a sharpened steel rod with a diameter of 30 mm with reinforcement welded on the side, and a sledgehammer on a steel handle.

Further instructions look like this:

1. We make two cuts on the riser closer to the top of the area being replaced. Cast iron can be cut with a grinder or chopped with a sharp chisel; the plastic pipe is cut with an ordinary garden hacksaw;
2. By disassembling the bell after the bell, we completely dismantle the problem area. In the upper apartment it is often necessary to disconnect the sewerage plumbing fixtures, preventing the comb from being removed from the sockets of the tee or cross;
3. We assemble the riser from the bottom up. In this case, we immediately fix each socket to the wall with a clamp. The exception is the socket located in the ceiling: it will be securely fixed when the hole is sealed with mortar. In order for the tee or cross to coincide in height with the comb of the upper apartment, the pipe located under it will have to be cut in place;

1. When assembling the riser in the upper apartment, we use the compensating pipe that is already familiar to us.

Trimming plastic pipes locally is carried out in compliance with a couple of simple rules:

• WITH inside all burrs are removed. They can catch rags and other debris, causing a blockage;
• WITH outside the chamfer is removed. It will greatly simplify the assembly of the connection.

If the plastic socket takes a lot of effort to assemble, apply a little liquid soap to the O-ring.

After assembling the riser, formwork is assembled under the ceiling (for example, a plywood panel cut to size and supported from below with several blocks); then two or three reinforcement bars are placed in the hatch, resting on the edges of the hole. Then the technological hole is filled from above with cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1:3. Solution for higher density laying is bayoneted with reinforcement.

Bell leak

A typical problem with old cast iron risers is the destruction of the socket, crushed by the mass of the pipe resting on it. This problem can be solved in two ways:

1. Replacing a section of the riser with a socket. The procedure is identical to that described above for replacing the riser between floors;
2. Installation of a rubber band. It can be played by a rubber bandage purchased at a pharmacy or a bicycle inner tube cut to length. The bandage is placed like this:

Leak in the ceiling

Often the cause of sewerage leaks in the ceiling is the subsidence of the lower cast-iron pipe under the influence of its own weight. As a result of subsidence, the upper pipe completely or partially leaves the socket of the lower one, and when the riser is filled with drainage from the ceiling, it begins to flow.

Diagnosing drawdown is quite simple. A sure sign of it is an unpainted strip of cast iron on the sewer riser just below the ceiling. The reason for the subsidence is poor-quality sealing of the technological hole in the ceiling, coupled with unreliable fastening of the pipe to the wall.

The problem is solved like this:

1. A clamp made of strong rope or thick wire is placed on the pipe;
2. A strong support is built on the floor of the bathroom from timber, boards or other available material;
3. Next, the lever principle is applied: the crowbar or pipe rests on a support and is placed under the clamp. The weight of an adult is usually sufficient to lift the pipe to its original position;
4. The riser is then secured with clamps to the main wall. For temporary fixation, a pair of wooden wedges driven into the lower socket can be used;
5. The socket is re-embossed with a heel or gland and sealed with cement mortar.

Blocked riser

If the water level in your bathtub and toilet rises even when the taps are closed, this is a sure sign of a clogged sewer riser or drain. What to do in this case?

To clean the riser the following can be used:

• At a small (up to 2 - 3 meters) distance from the nearest revision to the blockage - a sewer cable;

Plumbing cable. The price of the tool is from 150 rubles.

• At a greater distance - sewer wire.

Your task is to gain access to the nearest revision or tee located above the blockage.

Cleaning the riser from bottom to top is a very bad idea. When cleaning, a column of sewage several meters high will cover you and everything around with an even layer of a substance with an unforgettable aroma.

It is better to clean the riser together. One person pulls the cable or wire, preventing it from folding into loops, and rotates the handle; the second delivers the tool to the blockage. After the water has drained, continue to rotate the cable on the way back: this way you will not allow the cause of the blockage caught by the hook to float freely again.

If the cable or wire does not pass the blockage, you can try to clear the riser from the roof. For this purpose in fan pipe a crowbar tied to a strong rope is lowered. The length of the rope should not allow the crowbar to rest against the connection of the riser with the ladder: in my memory, there were cases when the crowbar pierced the cast iron bend right through.

Conclusion

I hope that my recommendations will help the reader in the unequal struggle with sewage. As usual, additional useful information can be found in the video in this article. Please feel free to share your own experiences in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

The need to replace the sewer riser in an apartment arises as the pipes wear out. This is easier to do in your own home, since you don’t need to ask your neighbors for their consent. When replacing the riser, you must keep ventilation pipe overlooking the roof. If this condition is violated, the water seals in the house will begin to work incorrectly, which will cause an unpleasant sewer smell.

Determining the need to replace the riser

If there are cracks and fistulas in the riser or the horizontal pipeline is lowered, it must be replaced. The new riser requires tees in order to be able to internal wiring. Pipes located horizontally in the screed and the tee can be lowered to the ceiling and pipes, which can be up to 10 cm.

Replacing the sewer riser in an apartment is the responsibility of the housing and communal services, but if you live on the top floor or in your own house, you can try to carry out this operation yourself, but you must strictly follow the instructions.

Sewer riser installation

In order to replace the riser, you need to understand its structure. The internal sewage system is arranged quite simply. The installation of a sewer riser in an apartment has the following features. The pipe at the point of receiving sewage is placed at a higher level compared to the place where it drains. The slope along the length of the pipe being laid must be uniform. The lowest point of the drain pipe is inserted into the common riser near interfloor covering. The height of the pipe start is calculated taking this point into account. For pipes, it is necessary to provide a slope within 2% for a diameter of 80-100 cm and 3% for a diameter of 40-50 cm. Exceeding this slope will lead to the fact that only pure water, and impurities will accumulate in them. At a lower slope, fats and water will enter the riser.

The riser must include ventilation device, which should be present both in the apartment and in the house. It helps eliminate unpleasant odors, as well as pressure compensation inside the riser. Ventilation installation is carried out either fun boner, leading to the roof, or ventilation valve, which forms unventilated sewer risers. The latter is installed in the part of the riser located above the appliances and plumbing products connected to it. It is better to entrust replacement of a cast iron riser to the appropriate specialists. If you do not want to contact them, then you must follow the instructions below for replacing the sewer riser in your apartment.

Tools and materials for replacing a sewer riser

You need to stock up on a grinder or pipe cutter, a chisel and a screwdriver to remove the cut material (the first one removes larger metal pieces, the second one removes smaller ones). You will also need a hammer (for the purpose of loosening the desired area pipes), a nail puller and a crowbar (to remove elements clogging the system). In addition, you should get a hammer drill (to remove cement at joints), a piece of polyethylene (to isolate potential holes), grinder(to prepare the surviving parts of the pipes for supplying the mounted riser), gloves and goggles.

Pipe caulking

The first operation when dismantling an old riser is caulking the pipes. The fact is that the pipes at the junctions are attached to each other with sulfur, which needs to be removed. To do this, you need to carefully hit the socket with a hammer (hitting with all your might can lead to replacing the entire riser, which will cost a pretty penny for the apartment owner or installer). If there is visible wobbling of the area, it must continue to be loosened in different sides. If loosening occurs over a short period of time, this most likely indicates that the connection was made not with the help of sulfur, but with the help of a rope that needs to be hooked and pulled out without stopping the swaying.

If you do not get any results when tapping with a hammer, you must take the torch or blowtorch and heat the wedging area in a circle. Don't forget to wear a gas mask or respirator. When burning, the wedging area is tapped with a hammer. When the bell begins to move, you need to loosen it with an adjustable wrench, while pulling it towards you. Once the bell is removed, the place where it was previously attached is cleaned with a pry bar, chisel or chisel. This will allow you to stand up correctly sealing rubber, which is treated with silicone, is inserted into the socket and a tee or mounted plastic pipe is supplied.

Replacement of pipes during dismantling

Replacing a sewer riser in an apartment involves replacing the pipes of the old system, which can be carried out by dismantling and installing elements located between the floor and ceiling, as well as their parts located between floors. The first option is the most common, since the second requires the consent of the neighbors.

Before dismantling, the water in the riser is shut off with a warning to neighbors. At a distance of 80 cm from the tee and 10 cm from the ceiling, with a grinder, cuts are made in a horizontal plane along half the diameter of the pipe. It is better to insert a chisel into the cuts. They are hit with a hammer, as a result of which the pipe splits and its middle is dismantled. The remaining part under the ceiling is covered with film and they begin to disassemble the lower part using a nail puller and a crowbar to loosen the tee fastening, as well as a hammer drill to crush the cement at the joints. The old tee is dismantled and pieces of cement are removed with a chisel and a screwdriver. The ends of old pipes are cleaned of dirt and treated with a grinding machine. In the room in which the sewer riser in the apartment is being replaced, active ventilation must be provided.

Preparing for installation of a new riser

To replace a sewer riser in an apartment with your own hands, you need to have the following items available:

• plastic pipes having a diameter of 110 cm;
• bends with tees;
• rubber bands to prevent leakage at the junction of old and new pipes;
• clamps for fastenings;
• liquid soap to ensure the pipe enters the connecting parts;
• level vertical-horizontal or vertical.

Installation

Installation when replacing a sewer riser in an apartment is carried out in a certain sequence:

• On top old pipe put on a rubber cuff and treat the joint with sealant.
• An additional adapter is inserted into the tee.
• To measure a pipe with an expansion joint inserted into the tee, it is necessary to place it in the position in which it will always be. The section is cut, retreating up to 5 cm above the socket, accurate measurements are taken and the individual parts are connected into a single whole.
• The new plastic riser is attached to the wall using clamps, which will not allow it to move down and tear the structure.
• When replacing a tee, a compensator is installed on it. If two pipes are used to construct a riser, the compensator is placed at the place where they are fixed.

The connection point is always treated with sealant.

Finally

Thus, replacing a sewer riser in an apartment is not so difficult, but any task requires a certain skill. If you are not confident in your capabilities, it is better to turn to specialists. Before installing a new riser, you need to dismantle the old one, which is perhaps a more labor-intensive operation compared to installing a new system.

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Sewage pipelines that are made of polypropylene can be concreted into the thickness of the structure (for example, in concrete floors). The gap between the sockets and couplings is sealed with adhesive tape. You can also cover it with thick paper so that concrete cannot get there.

If the sewer pipeline is laid correctly, the noise level in the wall will not exceed 35 dB. To do this, the grooves and shafts in the walls should be covered with a layer of plaster, the thickness of which should be at least 2 cm. Pre-shaped parts and pipes should be wrapped entirely soft material(you can use mineral or fiberglass, corrugated cardboard).

After installing the risers, the ceiling must be concreted over the entire thickness of the passage.

The passage of the pipe through the ceiling must be done in a sound-absorbing, moisture-proof manner. The design must be made in such a way that Fire safety the building was not damaged. All places where risers pass through the ceiling are sealed with cement mortar (to the full thickness of the passage).

The area that is located 10 cm above the ceiling must be protected with a layer cement mortar 3 cm thick. In some cases, to prevent the spread of fire through plastic pipes, special fire cuffs or barriers are used. When exposed to heat, they begin to expand, thereby filling the space both inside and outside the pipe. This eliminates the possibility of fire penetrating through the pipe into another room.

The structure is assembled from the bottom up; installation should begin from the basement or first floor. All assembled units should be installed and strengthened in place, while connecting them to smooth sections of pipelines and sealing the sockets.

The sockets should be placed upward during assembly. At a height of 1 m from the floor for cleaning, inspections are installed on the risers so that the riser can be cleaned if it is clogged. The risers should be attached to the surface of the walls under the sockets. If the height of the floor is less than 4 m, then it is allowed to install one fastening per floor.

The sewer riser must have the same diameter over its entire height, which is determined depending on the angle of connection of the floor pipelines to it and calculations of waste liquid flow. Domestic sewer networks that drain wastewater into the sewer network, must be ventilated through a riser. The exhaust portion of the riser must be discharged through a prefabricated ventilation shaft or roof.

Ventilation of the sewer network is carried out due to gravitational pressure that occurs in ventilation and sewer risers internal system. Polluted air in the sewer system is forced out through the riser into the atmosphere under the influence of gravitational pressure. Admission clean air carried out through loose fit in inspection wells.

Requirements for sewer riser ventilation.

Exhaust parts of risers that extend above the roof level are located at a distance of at least 4 m from open balconies and windows. The exhaust parts of sewer risers must not be discharged into ventilation system and into chimneys. The diameter of the drain part of the riser must be equal to the diameter of the exhaust part. Sometimes the ventilation part in modern systems sewer drain valves are replaced.

The riser in some cases may be unventilated. The possibility of using such a design is verified by accurate calculations. These efforts are well worth the cost savings when installing the system.

If the water supply and sewer risers are laid in one place, then usually the sewer riser is located in the corner, and next to it is the water supply riser.
When a sewer riser is installed in a boiler room or garage (where damage to pipes is possible), the installation site is fenced off.

Replacing the sewer system riser

Before starting work, you must make sure that replacement is really necessary. If there are no signs of leaks, obvious chips or cracks, or rotten areas, then there is no point in. At correct operation Cast iron lasts a very long time, and there is no need to replace it with plastic.

Materials required to replace a sewer riser

1. Plastic tee.
2. Two pipes of the required length.
3. Compensator for connecting pipes.
4. A plastic adapter that has rubber cuffs to connect the top pipe, which does not have a bell.
5. Metal clamps for securing the sewer riser to the wall.
6. Plastic bends.
7. If there is an inspection on the riser (a hatch for cleaning the sewer system), it must be preserved.
8. Plaster.
9. Silicone sealant.
10. Rubber cuff - allows for good sealing of plastic pipes in an old cast-iron socket.

Tools needed to replace a sewer riser

1. Grinder with spare discs.
2. Protective glasses.
3. Screwdrivers.
4. Ladder.
5. Bucket.
6. Chisel.

For dismantling, an incision must be made at a height of approximately one meter from the distribution tee. There is no need to completely cut off the pipe. After this, the same incision is made above the ceiling. The distance from the cut to the ceiling should be about 8 cm. Then, using a hammer, the chisel is driven into the cut. You only need to hit the chisel several times and the pipe will burst. The same operation is performed with the upper cut, after which the piece of pipe can be removed.

After this, the most difficult procedure begins: you need to remove the tee from the lower socket. If the lower part is loose, this is easy to do; if not, you can cut off the tee with a grinder, but the lower bell should not be touched. This process may take about an hour of your time. After the remnants of the tee are removed, it is necessary to clean the socket from dirt. After this, you can install a new sewer riser.

Installed according to all rules sewer system will serve you for many years.

There are situations, especially in old houses, when the sewer riser needs to be replaced. In most cases, the need for replacement is due to wear and tear of the pipes. Gradually, durable cast iron risers rust, holes appear in them, from which waste liquid oozes and an unpleasant odor comes out. Let's figure out how to change the sewer riser on our own.

The entire replacement of a sewer riser in an apartment or private house consists of two main stages:

• dismantling an old sewer pipe;
• installation of a new sewer riser.

Each stage of work will require its own tools and components, the purchase of which must be taken care of in advance.

Removing a damaged sewer riser

Correctly removing a cast iron sewer riser is quite difficult. If possible, it is better to seek help from specialists. But all the work can be done independently. To do this you will need:

• set of tools;
• detailed instructions on the procedure for carrying out work.

Tools needed to dismantle a sewer riser

The set of tools used to remove a sewer riser is quite large. Before starting work, you need to prepare everything you need.

So, to remove a cast iron sewer riser that has become unusable, you will need:

• pipe cutting tool. The most commonly used are a grinder or a pipe cutter;
• a chisel will be required to remove cut pieces from the system;
• a screwdriver needed to remove small pieces of the system;
• a hammer is used to loosen the remaining sections of pipes;
• crowbar or nail puller. May be useful for removing stagnant elements;
• hammer drill Required for grinding cement at pipe joints;
• a piece of polyethylene to insulate the resulting holes;
• grinding machine for preparing pipe sections for installation of a new riser;
• To protect the worker, gloves and safety glasses must be used.

Instructions for dismantling the sewer riser

Before starting work, you need to decide in which area the sewer riser in the apartment will be replaced. It could be:

• pipe between the floor and ceiling;
• a section that includes replacing pipes in floors between floors.

In the latter case, replacing the sewer riser is not possible without prior agreement with the neighbors, since some work will have to be carried out in their apartments. Most often the first option is chosen.

At the first stage of dismantling, it is necessary to turn off the water throughout the riser. Make sure no one is using the drain. Then carry out the work according to the instructions:

1. At a distance of 80 cm from the tee and 10 cm from the ceiling level, it is necessary to make 2 horizontal cuts using a grinder, approximately half the diameter of the pipe.
2. Using a hammer and chisel, hit first the upper notch and then the lower one. After these steps, it should split and its middle part can be easily removed.
3. Part of the pipe located under the ceiling is covered with film. Next, we proceed to disassemble the lower part of the riser, containing the tee and other fittings.
4. Using a crowbar or a nail puller, you can try to loosen the tee fastening. If this procedure can be completed, the fitting is removed. In the case of a thorough connection of the tee, a hammer drill is used, with which the cement is removed at the joint.
5. Using a screwdriver or chisel, pieces of cement are removed and the tee is dismantled.

Situations may arise when all of the above manipulations do not help remove the tee. In this case, the fitting is cut with a grinder at a distance of 3 cm from the socket.

1. The remaining sections of pipes are prepared for installation of the sewer riser. To do this, the ends of the pipes are removed from excess contaminants and processed using a grinding machine.

Correct dismantling of the sewer riser ensures reliable and durable installation of new pipes.

Installation of a new sewer riser

The sewer riser of an apartment building is a complex design. Before starting work, you must purchase all components of the system.

Equipment and tools for installing a sewer riser

To replace the sewer riser in an apartment yourself, you will need:

• plastic pipes with a diameter of 110 cm;
• with the necessary bends;
• rubber cuffs for arranging fastening between plastic and cast iron;
• compensation pipe used to transition between a cast iron pipe and a plastic one;
• fastenings for sewer riser. Most often, ordinary clamps are used;
• liquid soap, which facilitates the entry of pipes into the connecting elements;
• vertical level.

Assembly and installation of sewer riser

Assembly and replacement of the sewer riser in the apartment is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling in the following sequence:

1. Rubber cuffs are inserted into the cast iron socket and the end of the pipe near the ceiling.

1. A tee is connected at the bottom, and a special adapter is connected at the top. The connections must be tight, otherwise leaks are possible. If the tee moves freely, then the connection is sealed using flax or special silicone.

1. A plastic sewer riser in a multi-story building must be firmly fixed. On next stage clamps are installed to secure the pipeline.

If indoors standard ceilings, then 3 clamps are sufficient, which are located in the lower, upper and middle parts of the pipeline. Higher ceilings will require additional fixings.

1. Preliminary assembly and fitting of the system is carried out.

1. A compression pipe is lowered into the tee (the connection between cast iron and plastic must be equipped with a compression pipe).
2. All pipes are connected in the right places and finally installed.

1. The sewer riser is attached to the wall.

The sewer riser in the apartment building you can run and check all pipe connections for leaks.

If you strictly follow the instructions and carry out all the work carefully and correctly, then your self-installed sewer riser will last a long time.

At first glance, it seems that it is very difficult to replace a sewer riser in an apartment on your own. It's actually not that scary. It will be very good if this article helps you understand the process of replacing the riser, and carry out all the work without resorting to the expensive help of specialists.