Carpentry workbench drawings of all elements. How to make a carpentry workbench - diagrams and instructions

Since ancient times, skilled craftsmen have sought to equip workplace as comfortable as possible and, to put it bluntly, modern language, ergonomic, which was considered the key to not only fast and efficient work, but also safety. In this regard, the rooms intended for repair and manual production were filled with all kinds of tables, shelves and boxes, the original material for which was wood. Over time, cheaper metal gradually replaced wood from the construction arena and began to be used for the manufacture of machine tools, metal furniture and various auxiliary equipment, especially relevant in a construction workshop. Since the goods offered by stores often do not meet the specified characteristics, and sometimes cost on par with industrial equipment, in our article we will share simple tips and we'll tell you how to do it wooden workbench with your own hands.

The main purpose and typical characteristics of the workbench

Regardless of its design features, a workbench is a work table, necessarily characterized by massive dimensions and stability, and intended for processing structures and products with a wide variety of dimensions. Designing carpentry workbench, it is important to remember that the dimensions of the processed products directly depend on the dimensions of the workbench, while it is practiced to process products as manually, and with the use of power tools - drills and electric planes. A typical layout of a standard woodworking bench consists of the following elements:

• The working surface for which it is used solid board, the thickness of which is at least 60 mm. To make the lid, experts advise giving preference to hard wood, such as oak or beech, using which you will not have to periodically change the working surface of the workbench, which is due to the high wear resistance of the material.
• A vice designed for securing workpieces. They are installed on the front surface of the cover. Massive workbenches provide for the installation of several vices, separately designed for fastening small and large parts. Large vices are made of wood, while when choosing a vice of small dimensions, it is better to give preference to metal structures.
• Bench supports are designed to improve stability general design, which are connected by longitudinal strips. To make them, it is advisable to use soft wood, linden or pine.
• In the space under the workbench, on supports, you can install drawers designed for tools and any other work accessories.

Carpentry workbench: types of design

When developing a workbench project, it is important to take into account its design features, whether it will be installed permanently in the workshop or will be presented as a mobile structure. If you prefer a mobile design, optimal solution will make it easier due to the material used, which should be thinner. The mobile workbench can also be modified with a collapsible table top, as well as folding legs. In connection with the listed features, three types of workbenches are distinguished:

• Mobile workbench designed for small repair work and manipulations with wood blanks;
• A stationary workbench used for processing massive wood pieces and heavy boards. It is easy to manufacture, but is “tied” to one place;
• A collapsible or “transformable workbench” is convenient due to its collapsible design, which facilitates the process of replacing individual parts, and also increases the mobility of the entire structure. Find out how to do retractable workbench, can be found in specialized manuals.

Carpentry or metal workbench: differences

In addition to the classification presented above, workbenches differ in their purpose. There are carpentry and metalworking workbenches. Since creation mechanic's workbench is associated with a number of difficulties, in this guide we will tell you how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands.

Dimensions and location of the workbench

In the process of creating a workbench, it is important to choose the right location. It should be in close proximity to natural light sources, if any. Local light sources will also not be superfluous. We must not forget about electrical sockets, which should also be close to the workbench. All wires located in work area, it is preferable to include corrugated pipe or box

Before starting to build a workbench, experts recommend deciding on its final height. To do this, you need to lower your arms down, after which your palms are parallel to the floor. The distance between the floor and your palms is the very height of the desktop that is most convenient for you. Since homemade workbenches are often designed for a single workplace, the length of the table is 1.5 m and the width is 0.8 m.

How to make a workbench video

How to make a workbench in the garage: selection of materials

The selection of material for the manufacture of a workbench is an important stage of the entire work, which determines the final strength and stability of the structure being constructed. Before you make a carpenter's workbench, let's talk about the rational choice of materials needed for its manufacture. According to experts, to build a workbench optimal material there will be planed timber, which is suitable for making a frame frame and legs.

Ideal dimensions of planed timber:

• for legs - 100x70 mm;
• for jumpers - 100x50 mm;

For the tabletop, it is better to choose boards 5 cm thick, or solid canvas, such as old wooden door or chipboard characterized by a laminated surface. It is important to know that it is better to give preference to hardwoods such as oak, maple and beech.

How to make a workbench table? Sequencing

Making a workbench includes several stages, the most fundamental of which are:

• Base assembly;
• Installation of countertops;
• Installing equipment on a workbench.

Base assembly

The base, as a structural element of the workbench, is a wooden frame, which is fastened in such a way that the structure meets all the requirements of rigidity and stability. For these purposes, it is necessary to install a horizontal jumper between the legs of the workbench, and in the middle, along the entire length of the structure, it is important to install a frame. Both the lintels and the drawer are fixed at a distance of 40-50 cm from the floor. Subsequently, they can be used not only to strengthen the structure, but also to install shelves and drawers for improvised tools. When constructing the base, the beams are secured using a tongue-and-groove connection, and in those places where this is not possible, self-tapping screws are used. It is preferable to first prepare the grooves and tenons, according to the existing drawing, and only then glue the joints of the beams with wood glue.

If you're building a permanent workbench, one or more pieces of the frame can be attached to the wall, adding even more strength to the final structure.

Making a countertop and installing it

• When thinking through the stages of manufacturing a tabletop, we must not forget that it should be several more base. From previously prepared thick boards, a massive shield of previously specified dimensions is knocked together, for fastening which they use long nails, driven in with inside boards The boards used are pre-fitted to each other to prevent debris from getting into the existing cracks. For the installation of the countertop, the use of materials for the manufacture of which pressed chips were used is excluded, since they do not meet the requirements for its stability. Several transverse bars are nailed to the tabletop, for which it is necessary to provide grooves in the base. Horizontally oriented slats, which are needed for sliding the drawers, are attached to these jumpers using self-tapping screws.

• The tabletop is attached to the base with bolts. To do this, a recess is made in the upper part of the base bars using a chisel, and holes are drilled in the tabletop for bolts, the heads of which are recessed into the lid by drilling recesses of the appropriate diameter in the tabletop. In order to avoid injury from falling wood chips during subsequent work, the tabletop is sanded several times and coated with drying oil.

Equipment installation

• TO installed countertop attach a vice, for installation of which recesses should be provided in the end of the tabletop. At the place where the vice is installed, with bottom side The countertops are secured with plywood. When installing a vice, first lay it down, mark where it will be attached, and then secure it with nuts and bolts. Remember that the vise should not be positioned on the edge, which will cause gravity to shift as you work.

• In addition to vices, classic equipment for a workbench are wooden clamps, a high-power stationary drill, certain types of turning equipment, and a milling element. In a dacha setting, it will also be useful to install an angle grinder and a circular saw. When installing equipment on a workbench, it is important to think through all the details of convenience and safety, and also check the strength of all fasteners. If the equipment operates from electrical network, it is important to correctly calculate the power of simultaneously connected equipment, as well as correctly carry out the connection itself.

How to design and make a universal workbench?

This article did not examine in detail the process of making a metal workbench, and also does not explain how to make an iron workbench due to the complexity of this process, however, we consider it necessary to consider an option that involves combining metalwork and carpentry workbenches, which is especially important in the conditions of country houses and plots.

To do this, make the same workbench as given in the instructions, but slightly increase the working surface area. Sometimes this may require strengthening the base through the use of additional frame elements. When the tabletop is installed, one half is covered with a sheet of thin stainless steel, which is secured with self-tapping screws. IN ideal cover not only top part countertops, but also its end elements.

For a thrifty owner, a work desk is an indispensable attribute of a garage, barn or an extension to the house. Of course, you can also purchase a carpentry workbench. But if it is a product from a well-known brand, then it is quite expensive. In addition, it is not known whether it will fully meet all the needs of the master. Cheap tables won’t last long – that’s for sure.

The most rational decision, if you really want to have the most convenient and versatile carpentry workbench, make it yourself. Having dealt with optimal sizes, drawings, features of the selection of materials and a number of other issues, it will become clear that there is nothing difficult about this for any man.

Selecting a workbench project

This is where you need to start. Any desktop is made for specific purposes and premises. Carpentry workbench is a generalized name. One is needed only for woodworking personal plot(for example, during construction or major renovation), the other is assembled for everyday work with small details, and from different materials. Depending on the specifics of use and installation location, its design features, dimensions, and drawing are determined.

For household purposes, the home craftsman is best suited for the table according to option A. It is called mobile purely conventionally, only because of its relatively low weight. If a specific place is allocated for it in a barn or garage, nothing prevents the owner from fixing its legs to the floor (fill it with concrete, “fasten” it with large screws, and so on). With your own hands - whatever you want.

Drawing up a drawing of a carpentry workbench

If the workbench is assembled for household use, then there are recommended linear parameters (in cm) that you can focus on. But this is not an axiom, so the master is free to change anything at his own discretion.

• Length – at least 180.
• Working surface width – 90±10.
• Workbench height – 80±10 (taking into account the thickness of the table top). When deciding on this parameter, you need to focus on your own growth. It is unlikely that working with wood will be effective and bring satisfaction if you have to constantly stoop or, on the contrary, rise “on tiptoe”.

What to consider:

• The number and type of compartments in the table cabinet. These can be open boxes, drawers or drawers with doors, or shelves. Another thing is whether the master needs them?
• To make it more convenient to work with samples of different lengths, it is worth drilling several “sockets” in the tabletop to install limiters.
• To secure workpieces, it is advisable to have a couple of clamping devices (clamps or screw vices) on the workbench. The optimal width of their “sponges” is 170±5 mm.
• Desk location. Depending on the level of illumination, the number of lamps mounted on the workbench (and above it) is determined. But at least a couple of pieces, on the edges of the tabletop, are necessary for “spot” lighting.

If the owner is left-handed, then this should be taken into account. All standard drawings posted on the Internet are designed for craftsmen whose “working” hand is their right. Consequently, you will have to place additional equipment on the table according to the “mirror” principle.

Example of a workbench drawing

Selection of materials

sheet iron . This is just one of the ideas that you can implement with your own hands when determining the design features of the workbench. A work desk is not installed in residential areas. And in the workshop there will definitely be changes in both temperature and humidity. That's why

Wood recommended for making a workbench is hornbeam, beech, oak

. The only disadvantage of this solution is the high cost of materials. You can choose a cheaper option - maple, larch. These rocks are quite hard. Although for the tabletop of a homemade workbench, if it is not planned to carry out any “impact” work on it, sometimes slab samples (chipboard, OSV) are taken. In principle, any good owner can easily determine what suits him best.

• Wood that is too porous should not be used. Even high-quality treatment with antiseptics and oils will only increase the water-repellent properties, but will not add strength to the wood.
• Fasteners

1. Firstly, a nail, especially a large one, easily splits wood, especially if it is overdried.
2. Secondly, it is unlikely to be able to drive it strictly vertically, given the length of the leg and the strength of the wood from which the workbench is made.
3. Thirdly, it is difficult to dismantle. For example, if it is necessary to repair a desktop with replacement of a component. It is not always possible to pull out a tightly driven “powerful” nail.

• Self-tapping screws. For a small workbench - the best choice

. The most “problem” areas can be additionally reinforced with metal strips, corners, and plates. The main thing is to correctly select the length of the fastener leg. There is a rule according to which it must exceed the thickness of the part being fastened by at least 3 times. Otherwise, the strength of the connection is in question.

Instructions for assembling a carpentry workbench

In the process of making a desktop with your own hands, the master must constantly, at every stage, control the angles and levels. The slightest distortion, even in one place, and everything will have to start all over again.

• Making workbench parts
• This is easy to do using the dimensions shown in the drawing.
• Each sample is carefully polished.
• Depending on the type of wood, an impregnating composition is selected and parts are treated to protect them from destruction by rot and wood-boring insects. Drying. This is worth emphasizing. Initiate this process

It is impossible to use artificial heating, otherwise the workpieces will begin to deform - bend, twist. Moisture should evaporate only naturally - in a room with room temperature and good ventilation.

Assembling the supporting frame (workbench base)

Part of the fastening features have already been said - self-tapping screws + reinforcement elements. But still, the main method of fixation is a tongue-and-groove connection with wood glue. But the fasteners only add strength to the entire structure of the workbench. But this is practiced only for massive tables that are not planned to be disassembled in the future (stationary options). Here you should take into account the degree of maintainability of the workbench. If it is in a room with good conditions , it is unlikely that the wood will quickly begin to rot. In such cases, adhesive joints are quite justified. For work tables that are located in cold sheds, unheated boxes, and especially under open air

Additional reliability of the structure can be ensured by installing various jumpers - diagonal, horizontal. This is all thought out at the stage of drawing up the drawing, although “rework” can be done during the installation process.

Tabletop

This is the most loaded part of the workbench, and it is advisable to make it removable. In this case, it is easy (if there is significant damage) to replace 1 - 2 boards.

• The width of the tabletop is selected so that its surface extends slightly beyond the perimeter of the frame. Otherwise, working on such a workbench will be inconvenient. And it will no longer be possible to secure the removable vice.
• The sides of the boards are carefully sanded. If you do not achieve an accurate fit of the samples, you cannot avoid the appearance of cracks.
• The blanks are laid face down (on a flat base) and fastened with bars. They are placed perpendicular to the center lines of the boards, and the thickness of the latter allows them to be tightened with thick screws. As a last resort, it is easy to drill deep chamfers at individual points.

• To make the tabletop removable, it is fixed to the frame using metal corners.
• After its manufacture, additional grinding of the front part is performed. To extend the service life, it is advisable to treat the working surface with impregnating agents (wood oil, drying oil).

Workbench equipment

At what stage and what exactly needs to be done is decided depending on the modification of the desktop and the selected drawing. For example, the same vice. They can be purchased ones that are easy to attach to the edge of the workbench. People with experience in carpentry, make clamping devices themselves.

In principle, a man who is “friendly” with the simplest tools should not have any difficulties when assembling a carpentry workbench. The only recommendation is that before you start drawing up a drawing, you should carefully review all the photos of desktops available on the Internet.

Even if there are no sizes on them, it is not difficult to determine them. But with a high degree of probability we can say that new ones will appear, interesting ideas. After all, the workbench can also be folding, which is very convenient in a small box or shed. Yes, and having familiarized yourself with the table configuration, design features different models, you can come up with something of your own, original. After all, the beauty of assembling it yourself is in the absence of any canons. Only creativity + knowledge of the issue.

When serious home renovations are underway, it is necessary that everything be at hand at any time, which will allow maximum benefit use time. To do this, it is important to properly organize the home craftsman’s workplace if he is used to doing everything with his own hands. During renovation or construction, woodwork takes a significant place. However, sawing timber on a stool or bench is inconvenient and time-consuming. A desktop, also known as a workbench, will help you use time and resources rationally. You can do it at home.

For most men, the garage is both a “home” for the car, a storage room and a workshop at the same time.

Not every owner believes that a workbench is constantly needed on the farm: it is needed only for the period of repair or reconstruction of the building, so he prefers to rent it. But such an opinion is erroneous, especially if he is the owner of a household located on the ground. The carpentry workbench that appeared on the farm will be a real help for him. Having made such a design, the owner receives whole line advantages compared to using a workbench rented or purchased at a construction supermarket.

1. He will save a significant amount of money, which he can use for further improvement of the house.
2. Will gain additional management experience and practical skills.
3. You will have at your disposal a comfortable work table suitable for processing parts made of wood and metal.
4. If the owner makes a workbench with his own hands, he can use it at any time.

Therefore, in one room (it’s good if there is a basement) it is necessary to place shelving and a workplace.

Types of tables

Known different kinds workbenches that have different purposes.

1. Carpentry workbench for manufacturing wooden parts. It is convenient to process small wooden crafts, but is not intended for primary wood processing. It will require a tabletop three meters long and one meter wide. The parts on it are secured with wooden horizontal and vertical clamps.
2. The carpenter's jig is significantly larger in all respects and heavier. Tree trunks are processed on it, boards, beams and other wood blanks are cut.
3. The universal table allows you to work with wood and metal; its tabletop is reinforced with metal tape and has wooden and metal clamps.

There is a table for carrying out metalwork and car maintenance in almost every garage.

There is another definition of types of structures based on possible location.

1. Mobile (portable). Used to perform small work on parts small sizes. It is comfortable and quite light. It can be moved from one place to another without much difficulty. The carpenter's table is equipped with a small or medium-sized vice, which allows it to be used for minor metalwork work.
2. The stationary desktop is massive and stable. You can use it to process lumber, but a home craftsman will hardly need such a workbench unless he constantly engages in woodworking.
3. Prefabricated with connections using bolts. This is a kind of transformer: at any time it can be supplemented with special equipment and the necessary changes can be made, depending on the tasks being solved.

And as a rule, it is homemade, that is, it is made taking into account the characteristics of a particular room.

What type of construction a home master chooses directly depends on what goals and objectives he sets:

• a work table is needed for processing small parts and manufacturing small products only for the period of repair and construction work;
• the owner will constantly use it and work with small volumes of wooden parts;
• a workbench will be needed to carry out primary processing of wood, turning it into boards and timber on an ongoing basis;
• The table is intended to be used for periodic processing of small wooden and metal parts.

The shape and dimensions are determined by the configuration of the room.

Experienced home craftsmen claim that even a novice owner who has no skills in handling metalwork tools can make the product.

A workbench for a garage is often compared to a desk because it provides the convenience of carrying out a variety of work and allows you to do everything necessary tools keep on hand.

Material selection

To make a workbench with your own hands, a craftsman needs wood and metal. If you plan to make a small table, then a wooden base will be suitable for it. For the tabletop, laminated chipboard or pressed plywood with a thickness of at least 5–7 cm is suitable. For a stationary table, you can use well-planed boards, tightly fitted to each other, and partially metal.

In addition to the tabletop, it has a large number of shelves and drawers.

And if the home craftsman has at his disposal an unnecessary desk, then it will become a good basis. It is also convenient because it already has several drawers or compartments for storing tools.

The driver's workplace must be strong and stable.

Will find application in design old door made from whole cloth. It will make a wonderful, durable tabletop that doesn’t even require processing.

Under the table there must be cabinets with tools and consumables(drills, hacksaw blades, rags, etc.).

Using available materials on the farm for production carpenter's table DIY will save the home craftsman time and money.

It is irrational to make a monolithic cabinet out of a table; you need somewhere to put your feet during sedentary work.

You can make your own workbench out of metal. It will be strong, reliable and heavy. But experience shows that the most acceptable is an intermediate option, when the frame and cover of the workbench are made of wood and then covered with sheet metal.

However, both sides should be, if not sets of drawers, then at least a set of shelves.

A home craftsman who decides to make a workbench with his own hands will need a certain set of materials. He knows well what is needed for this.

The workbench in the garage should not be part of the rack, therefore, the wall above it is a place for hanging tools.

And for those who do not yet have sufficient experience, we have compiled a list of everything necessary for its manufacture:

• metal corner;
• steel strip and galvanized iron sheet;
• plywood;
• screws;
• anchor bolts;
• square pipe;
• wooden boards ;
• metal screws;
• dye.

Both metal and wooden workbench have the right to life.

What tools will you need?

A self-made small wooden carpentry workbench will take its rightful place in a home workshop. To do it you don't need large quantity tools.

You can always put a piece of plywood or hardboard on a steel sheet, and on wooden surface– galvanized sheet.

You will need a standard set that can be found in every home:

• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• Bulgarian;
• jigsaw or hand saw;
• hammer.

First of all, we determine the ergonomics of the workplace.

Depending on what material will be used for the carpentry workbench, the list of materials and tools may vary. For example, to make a metal desktop, you cannot do without welding machine and electrodes.

The height of the workbench should be such that you don’t have to bend your back and, at the same time, stand on tiptoes.

Where to put it?

Before starting work, it is important to immediately determine what and how often the table will be used and where it will be placed. You can’t do without a drawing. The answers to these questions will determine its size, material and manufacturing procedure.

The best place to place the device can be considered that part of the room (garage or shed) where there is daylight. It is also important to have electrical outlets near your workbench to plug in power tools and a lamp. It is best if the light falls from the left or directly, then the working surface of the table will be illuminated during the day.

Design the dimensions of your work area.

Then the parameters are determined future design. Despite existing standards Regarding the size of the table, if you make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, the home craftsman will proceed from the expediency and actually available space, so the tabletop will be such that tools and parts can be freely placed here, without strictly observing the dimensions. The width is usually 50-60 cm; this size is considered optimal, as it allows you to freely reach the opposite edge of the tabletop.

The typical vertical table size is in the range of 850-950 mm.

Another important parameter is the height of the workbench. Exist various ways its definitions, ranging from precise mathematical calculations to folk experience, which suggests that the optimal indicator is the distance from the extreme point of the arm bent at the elbow to the floor. Experienced master can make it adjustable.

A perforated metal sheet is ideal as a wall for placing tools.

After determining the basic parameters of the product, you can begin assembly.

1. First, the legs are fixed (four supports made of steel angles, which are also connected by angles and secured by welding at the top and bottom.). The result is a rectangular welded structure.
2. After making the frame, they begin to prepare the tabletop. Boards cut to size are laid out on top of the frame and fastened tightly together. The tabletop is connected to the frame using bolts. The working surface must be processed: planed and sanded. The bottom must be secured with crossbars or wooden blocks. They are screwed to each of the elements of the resulting shield.

After securing it, you need to cover the lid with metal (it is better if it is galvanized). A metal sheet fixed to the surface of the tabletop with self-tapping screws. If burrs form, they must be cleaned off.

The workpieces should be cut before welding begins.

The main work on the manufacture of the workbench is completed here, but to give greater rigidity to the structure and attach it to the floor, you can weld it from below metal corners. If desired, it can be equipped with drawers and shelves for tools.

We reinforce all welded joints with a corner or steel strip.

From necessary equipment There must be a place for a vice on the workbench. They hang on front side tabletops and are used for fastening products. If you often work on large parts, there is a need to install several vices of different sizes.

The main thing is to strengthen all 90° connections.

You can mount shelves under the workbench where to place various devices, the right tool or stack processed parts.

Be sure to impregnate the wood with antiseptic and fire-retardant impregnation.

Carefully made with your own hands, the carpentry workbench will become convenient device for home handyman work.

This design is close to the ideal of a DIY garage workbench.

VIDEO: DIY workbench.

Making a workbench with your own hands: 50 photo ideas

I want to weld a workbench for the garage. Locksmith, as in a workshop.
To cook on it, and to sharpen, and to fasten a vice, and to put tools in drawers.

I managed to visualize my intentions. I spent a long time looking through different layout options and estimating the dimensions. I think I have found the best option for myself.

Blue indicates metal parts, yellow indicates wooden parts.
The tabletop will be made of a 50mm thick board, surrounded by a 50x50x4 corner and covered with a 2mm sheet of metal. The workbench frame will be welded from profile pipe 60x40x2. Stiffening ribs will be welded from a 40x40x4 corner. Shelves and side panels will be made of 30mm thick boards. Guides for attaching the side panels will be made from a 40x4 strip. The boxes will be welded from 2mm metal and installed on powerful skids.

To purchase metal, we agreed with Dikiy to order a Gazelle for two in order to pay less, and on Saturday at 8:30 in the morning, so as not to drag it out over the whole day, we went to the metal depot.

The weather was slippery and with a cold wind. A loader in a torn army pea coat, who looked to be suffering from a hangover, was taking out wet metal for cutting. Nearby, in a puddle, lay a dirty carrier with a grinder connected to it. Cut pieces of rolled metal splashed into a slush puddle. The ordered Gazelle was waiting nearby. It was getting light.

Don’t call me a maniac, but after arriving at the garage, I washed with water and wiped dry the grimy, rusty pieces of freshly purchased metal. You still need to clean it before painting, otherwise it will be more pleasant to work with.

On that harsh January morning the following were purchased:
1. Corner 50x50x4 6.4 meters
2. Pipe 60x40x2 24 meters
3. Corner 40x40x4 6.75 meters
4. Strip 40x4 8 meters
A total of 121 kilograms of metal worth 4,000 rubles.
Now I will cook my workbench.

Cutting the main frame parts took two evenings, a total of five hours.
In total, it turns out that the skeleton of the workbench will consist of 45 welded parts.
The tags indicate what it is and where to weld it.

Now you can calmly put everything on the back burner and surrender to the thick, stinking, sticky quagmire of your daily hopeless routine.

Welded brackets for the tool panel above the workbench.

And the base for the homemade table top was welded.

The cross members of the base for the table top are welded flush with the corner. For this purpose, figured cutouts are made in the crossbars. Here is a small drawing of what it looks like:

In the meantime, I welded the instrument panel brackets.

Reinforced loaded joints with 4mm strip overlays.

I welded 24 brackets for the side panels. The panels will be plywood - cheaper than metal, and look better.

The brackets provide additional rigidity to the entire structure.

I want to cover the tabletop with a 4mm or 5mm sheet of metal. There is an office on Moskovsky Prospekt that immediately cuts sheets of metal to size. I need a sheet 2200x750.
If you take a sheet of 2500x1250, then there will be two good pieces left (2200x500 and 300x1250) or (2500x500 and 750x300), which can also be chopped into the required sizes.
If such pieces will be useful to someone, then let’s cooperate, otherwise it’s a little expensive for one.

I made boxes from 15mm plywood. I assembled it with 80mm screws. Each box contains 20 screws. It turned out solid, just the way I like it.

The size of each box is 0.6m x 0.7m x 0.2m

The slides were secured by welding. I learned how to weld a 1mm tin to a 4mm strip with a 3mm electrode at a current of 100 amner. It's like putting in food processor car engine V8 volume 3 liters. It was just that TIG was too lazy to uncover. Moreover, it holds securely anyway.

Now I'm thinking about different options facades.

This completes the welding stage. There's carpentry and painting ahead. Some other little things about plumbing and electrical wiring.

Painting the frame of a homemade workbench.
I asked the seller to recommend a good paint.
- Wow, what a good paint, I swear by my mother! - he answered, handing over a can of rust paint with metal chips for 500 rubles.

Covered the tabletop edged board 150x40. I fastened the boards to the frame with 4.0x35 self-tapping screws. In total I used 60 self-tapping screws.

I sanded the surface a little so that the sheet of metal lay more tightly.

He talked about protecting wood from fire. Impregnated wood cannot support combustion on its own.
When impregnated wood is heated, a melted film is formed, which does not burn and limits the access of oxygen to the surface. The manufacturer of my impregnation declared group I fire-retardant efficiency - the highest.

Of course, this does not allow you to weld metal directly on the surface of the workbench. The boards will still char if they don’t catch fire. To organize a welding station, I plan to weld a removable grill that will reliably protect the surface of the tabletop from heat.

After drying, I will cover the tabletop with an already prepared 4mm sheet of metal.

Covered the tabletop with a 4mm sheet of metal. The sheet was held to a wooden base by rows of countersunk screws. The tabletop turned out to be monumental.

I used 10mm plywood shields to cover the extra openings in the workbench frame.
The photo shows a paint shop.

Registered permanent residents on the tabletop - grinder and a vice. They get lost on a hefty tabletop.

1) What is the best way to cover the bare metal on the countertop? I'm leaning towards a rust converter that will create a durable protective film and which is easy to update if necessary. Maybe there are better ideas?
2) Where can I get a durable chair with adjustable height?

P.S. I think it will be interesting for those reading this thread - a bourgeois site with a bunch of ideas for welded tables and other welded things: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/welding-table/ Following the links you can find the manufacturing process of everything presented.

Still, I took the plunge and coated the countertop with rust converter. Apply a thin, even layer.

While the tabletop was drying, I finished with the shelves in the left drawer

Well, in general, greasing the countertop was not a bad idea. It really turned out to be a film, as if it was covered with varnish. True, it is not covered very neatly, but it is really easy to restore - because... the film is easily dissolved by a new portion of the converter and dries again, hiding all old damage.

From the large one, all that remains is to make a panel for tools and place fasteners for everything, everything, everything on it.
I want to hang a sheet of plywood or a solid furniture panel 15mm thick and measuring 2.2 meters x 1 meter. If anyone has one, I suggest exchanging it for a 4mm sheet of metal 2.2 meters x 0.5 meters (left over from the countertop).

Well, actually, that’s why...

Test passed

Class! No more having to live with hand power tools on stools, lay out tools, fasteners, screwdrivers, taps and tape measures on all available shelves and nooks around and look for them, forgetting where you put them - all in one place and at hand.

Mounted the tool panel. Solid, made of 21 mm plywood.

4 corners 50x50x4 plus 21 mm plywood plus 16 bolts 8x40 equals hanging tens of kilograms of tools without fear of breaking anything

I made the fronts for the drawers from the remains of 21-gauge plywood.

That's all.
The dream workbench is ready. Some things came out a bit crooked in places, but I'm very pleased with the result.

The net weight of the workbench exceeded 200 kilograms. The tabletop area is 1.65 square meters, the toolbar area is 2.2 square meters. The total volume of the left and right cabinets is almost one cubic meter. The special feature of the workbench is that you can sit at it while working with TIG, and the tabletop covered with a 4mm sheet of metal is not afraid mechanical damage. Spacious shelves, drawers and panels allow me to conveniently store almost all the tools I have, providing convenient, quick access to them.
This is the homemade workbench of your dreams.
I think my great-grandchildren will also work on it.

P.S. And after a little modification you will get an excellent makeup table)) -816- http://gazeta-v.ru/catalog/detail/192_vizazhist_i_fotograf/15464_grimernyy_stol_svoimi_rukami/

Well, to put the finishing touches on the project, a few more photos.

The screws are screwed in and out quickly and easily (if you have a screwdriver, of course).

I'll finish it over time spanners, holders for drills and screwdrivers, a holder for paper towels, and additional lighting. Luckily there are two square meters there is room to turn around. I made an awesome thing. Satisfied like an elephant.

Firstly, the small vice could not withstand the load and burst.

Instead, a more powerful vice is installed. On one side they have a five-pointed star cast, on the other - the numbers 1958 - probably the year of manufacture. So they are 56 years old? I hope they last me as long. In general, a good vice is the pride of a master.

The photo shows that the tabletop does not protrude much beyond the dimensions of the table. Therefore, when attaching a vice to bolts, it will not be possible to crawl from below to tighten the nut. That's what I intended. The vice and sharpener are fixed to the tabletop using anchor bolts. Looks neat and holds up to death.

Secondly, it turned out that the deep drawers in the right cabinet are not very convenient. It would have been better to make them smaller. I will come up with some kind of organizers inside them.

Otherwise it turned out great. All the tools are in one place, visible and always ready. There is also room to spread out on the large tabletop.

You can purchase some things from this blog in our VKontakte group:

Reading time ≈ 3 minutes

In any private home, workshop or garage, a carpentry workbench is a very necessary item. With its help it is convenient to make or repair any things, and it also combines the functions of a table and a shelf for tools at the same time. It can be equipped with a bench vice, and a sharpening machine can be installed on it various instruments. If you buy a metal workbench in a store, it will cost a considerable amount of money, but it is quite possible to make a workbench from wood with your own hands.

Required tools and materials

So for self-made For a workbench in the garage you will need the following tools:

• Hacksaw or electric jigsaw;
• Roulette;
• Square;
• Building level;
• Spanners;
• Drill;
• Screwdriver.

Materials:

• bars for supports;
• 2 sheets of plywood or OSB (one of the sheets is cut to fit the shelf required size);
• boards for the frame;
• self-tapping screws;
• bolts;
• washers;
• nuts

Before work, you need to make a drawing of the workbench with dimensions for ease of assembly.

Step-by-step instructions for making a workbench

To make the upper frame, it is necessary to saw off the boards based on the required size of the workbench (see photo).

Using self-tapping screws, secure 2 long and 2 short boards to form a rectangular frame. Using a tape measure, mark the distance to the middle of the frame, and perpendicularly, between two long boards, secure the remaining short board, attaching it with self-tapping screws at both ends.

To make the legs of the workbench, you will need to saw off 6 equal bars. From the inside of the resulting base, secure one leg to each corner of the frame using bolts, washers and nuts (see diagram of the workbench).

For the rigidity of the structure it is necessary to install additional boards, which will also serve as the basis for the lower shelf. To do this you need to saw off 4 boards.

Using a tape measure, you need to measure an equal distance from each leg of 30 cm, at the resulting level, fasten the board to the back of the structure to 3 legs, and from the front, fasten the board between the outer and middle legs, in the place where the future shelf is planned.

The remaining two boards must be secured to the legs, at the same level as the boards for the shelves.

From one or more sheets of plywood or OSB using a hacksaw or electric jigsaw cut out the required sections. We fix them flush to the top of the workbench using self-tapping screws. Additionally, you can fasten a sheet of hardboard on top, because it can be easily replaced with a new one if the old one is very worn out. The bottom shelf is made using the same scheme. Using a tape measure, measure the distance between the outer and middle legs of the workbench; a sheet of material is cut to this size and installed on the resulting base.

When attaching legs or crossbars, it is necessary to use a square to obtain an equal distance between parts of the structure. Using a level at the installation site, you need to check whether the workbench you made yourself is level. If there is a slope, it must be leveled by placing wooden chips under the legs of the workbench.