Drill stand: methods for making wooden and metal structures with step-by-step photos. Drill stand: methods for making wooden and metal structures with step-by-step photos Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade stand

A stand for a drill allows you to significantly expand the functionality of hand tools, which is not difficult to make with your own hands. Placing a drill on such a stand (it can also be made rotary) allows you to turn an ordinary hand tool into an effective one that can be successfully used to perform various technological operations.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade stand

A homemade drill stand has a number of advantages, the most significant of which include the following:

manufacturing such a drilling machine costs much less than purchasing a serial model of such a device;
You can make such a tripod for a drill from improvised materials, using components from old and unused equipment, which can always be found in any garage or home workshop;
blueprints similar devices various designs and even video instructions for their manufacture are in open access, finding them will not be difficult;
If you wish, you can always create your own design, which in its characteristics and ease of use will surpass all existing models.

The simplest factory rack made in China can be bought very inexpensively (from 1,200 rubles), but its functionality and quality will not satisfy all craftsmen - too often there are complaints about significant play in budget models

But of course, self-production The device for securing the drill also has its disadvantages, which include the following:

in order to produce some parts of such racks, the use of lathes, welding and other equipment is required, which naturally increases their cost;
due to the fact that the structural elements of such drilling devices are not fitted very well, play often occurs in them, and this negatively affects the accuracy and quality of the processing performed with their help;
a homemade stand for a drill is quite limited in its functionality; for example, it cannot be used to make holes located at an angle.

Drill stand made of wood: option No. 1

Rack option with pretty detailed instructions on assembly in the format of a photo selection illustrating the stages of production. To create this model, you will need boards with a thickness of at least 20 mm, a small box with furniture guides and a threaded rod for the moving part of the stand, a couple of dozen short and three dozen long screws, wood glue plus a standard tool in such cases, such as a saw, a clamp , screwdriver, drill and sandpaper for finishing.

A homemade drill holder is an easy-to-install device, and equipping it with additional components allows you to turn such a drill holder into universal equipment with which you can perform various technological operations. Before you start making such a holder for a drill with your own hands, you need to understand its design features.

Device bed

The frame for the drilling device from the drill is made of metal (10 mm thick) or wooden (more than 20 mm thick) sheet. The massiveness of the bed that you will use as a base directly depends on the power of the drill used. The dimensions of the frame for a drill machine depend on the specifics of the work performed on such equipment. You can use the following recommendations by choice of frame dimensions:

machines for performing vertical drilling- 500x500 mm;
equipment for performing various technological operations - 1000x500 mm.

The frame, made of metal or wooden sheets, is a very simple structure. A stand is placed vertically on it, the stable position of which is ensured by a special support. Such structural elements can be secured to each other using screw connections.

Equipment rack

The stand where the guides for the drill will be located can also be made of metal or wooden slab. In addition to guides for moving the drill in a vertical plane, a clamp is mounted on the stand, with which the tool is fixed to it. The procedure for assembling the rack can be seen in the training video, and you must adhere to the following sequence of actions:

a support is fixed on the stand-frame;
the machine stand is secured to the base using screw connections, which is then connected to the support;
guides are fixed on the rack, which can be used as telescopic furniture devices;
a carriage is mounted on the moving part of the guides, where a fastener is placed for fixing the drill.

Selecting guides for your homemade machine, care should be taken to ensure that there is no lateral play in them.

The length of the carriage, also made of metal or wood, depends on the size of the drill that you will use to equip your machine. This structural unit, which is equipped with a mobile drill stand, can be performed in the following two options.

With the drill secured using clamps. Used in this design diagram The clamps are threaded into holes pre-drilled in the carriage. Clamping of the drill and its reliable fixation on the carriage is ensured by tightening the clamps.

Below in the video you can see the details of making this version of the drill stand. The author talks in detail about the process of creating his homemade drilling equipment.

A special block is used to attach the drill. This block is a bracket where the drill is secured. The bracket is made from a wooden plate, which is attached to the carriage at an angle of 90 degrees, for which metal corners are used. To fix the drill, a hole is drilled in the block, the diameter of which is 0.5 mm smaller than the diameter of the tool itself, and a slot is made to allow the tool to be inserted into the mounting hole.

The hole in the block on the machine, intended for installing a drill, is made according to the following algorithm:

a circle is drawn on the surface of the block, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the drill being installed;
in the inner part of the circle, trying to adhere to the line that limits it, drill a series of holes without large diameter;
partitions that have formed between drilled holes, cut using a hacksaw or any other tool;
Using a file or needle file with a semicircular shape of the working surface, the edges of the resulting hole for the drill are processed, making them smooth.

Mechanism for moving the drill in the vertical direction

A homemade drilling machine must be equipped with a mechanism that will ensure the movement of the drill in the vertical direction. Structural elements of such a node are:

a handle with which the carriage with a drill attached to it is brought to the surface of the workpiece;
a spring necessary to return the carriage with the drill to its original position.

You can make such a mechanism using two design schemes:

the spring is connected directly to the handle of the machine;
the springs are located at the bottom of the carriage - in special grooves.

According to the first option, the design is carried out according to the following scheme:

two metal plates are fixed on the machine stand using screws, between which an axis is installed, where the installation handle will be placed;
on the other side of the rack, plates and an axis are also installed, on which one end of the spring is fixed, and its second end is connected to the handle;
the pin with which the handle is connected to the installation carriage is placed in a longitudinal groove made in it.

If the springs are located at the bottom of the return mechanism, then the handle of the device is also fixed using two plates and an axis that ensures its movement. With this design, the springs are located in the lower part of the guide grooves, which are modified using metal corners, limiting their movement.

The principle of operation of a drilling machine, in which the springs are located at the bottom of the carriage, is quite simple: moving down during the drilling process, the carriage with the drill attached to it presses on the springs, compressing them; after the mechanical impact on the springs stops, they unclench, lifting the carriage and drill to their original position.

Additional equipment for a homemade machine

Equipping a drill machine with additional attachments will allow you to use it for drilling holes at an angle, as well as for performing simple turning and milling technological operations.

To perform milling work on such equipment, it is necessary to ensure the movement of the workpiece in the horizontal direction. For this purpose, the design of the machine uses a movable horizontal table equipped with a vice for fixing the workpiece. The best option the drive of such a table is helical gear, driven by a handle.

Using a homemade drilling machine, which uses a hand drill, you can drill holes at an angle if you equip it with a rotating plate with holes located in an arc. On such a plate, which can rotate on an axis fixed to the machine stand, the machine carriage and the drill itself are located. The holes on the rotating plate, which help fix the position of the working head, are made at the most common angles: 30, 45 and 60 degrees. The manufacturing procedure for such a mechanism is as follows:

in the machine stand and the rotating plate on which the carriage will be mounted and the drill secured, a central hole for the axis is drilled;
then, using a protractor, mark the axes of the holes located at the most common angles on the rotary plate and drill them;
using the axial holes on the stand and the rotary plate, combine these two elements and fix them with bolted connection;
Three holes are drilled on the machine stand, which will be used to fix the rotary plate in the required position using pins.

The algorithm for working on a homemade machine equipped with such a rotating plate is quite simple: it is simply turned to the required angle together with the drill attached to it and fixed with three pins connecting the rotating and fixed parts of the stand.

Conveniently, machines with a rotary plate can also be used to perform simple turning work. To carry out such technological operations, the drill is positioned horizontally using a rotating plate.

A drill stand is a stationary device for holding drilling tools. Designed to make work easier and increase the accuracy and quality of results. For industrial scale there are many factory-made models; for home use, homemade tripods are acceptable. Can be used for hammer drills and screwdrivers.

Before you start working, you need to familiarize yourself with the drawings of drill racks with your own hands and choose the optimal model for yourself. There are many options for execution, but they are all united by common principles.

Accessories:

A do-it-yourself drill stand must be massive. This ensures the stability of the structure and its strength. You can use a sheet of wood or metal as a support. The size of the metal frame is suitable from 50 * 50 * 1.5 cm. Plywood, chipboard, or MDF will need more volume - 60 * 60 * 3 cm. If the device is planned to be used not only for drilling, but also for turning and milling work, then you will need a plate 100*60*30. For a multifunctional machine, it is better to use stainless steel with low susceptibility to heat.

The stand is attached strictly vertically to the stand, which ensures accurate operation of the tool and prevents drill breakage and defects in the workpiece. The height of the part will need to be at least 60 cm. It can be made of the same material as the stand. Some craftsmen use an unnecessary photo enlarger, a broken microscope, pipes, metal profiles or a car steering axle.

The travel mechanism is used to move the tool vertically. It can be made like a jack, on springs or on hinges. A design in which, instead of moving the drill, the workpiece itself is lifted is acceptable.

The bracket is made taking into account the shape of the tool. The design can be modified, the only condition is that it firmly holds the drill, preventing tilt or arbitrary movement under the influence of vibration.

Additional equipment increases the functionality of the source code. There is a way to introduce the ability to drill at an angle. It is easy to increase the comfort for the master with built-in measuring instruments, reliable vice - fastenings.

Homemade examples

Thoughtful design taking into account your needs will increase the efficiency of use. For rare and simple work, ready-made ones are suitable simple solutions. Any of them can be modified at your discretion or used as a basis for your own developments. The main thing is to ensure the stability of the product fastenings.

Stand with spring mechanism

A simple example to implement at home. The functionality is limited, but the design is reliable and functional. Does not require specific tools, soldering or other manipulations with metal for assembly.

For production you will need:

wooden slabs;
metal corners;
bar;
spring;
clamp;
screws;
wing bolt.

You should cut out a support for the drill feed mechanism. The resulting part measuring 50*12.5*1.5 cm will become the basis for securing the remaining components. Do-it-yourself manufacturing may turn out to be unreasonably time-consuming, so their role in such a model will be played by 2 furniture profiles 3.5 * 3.0 * 1.5 cm. They are attached to the edges of the future tripod. It is more convenient to try on and adjust movable parts before assembling the device, so the resulting workpiece is put aside.

The slider on which the holder for a vertical drill will be attached is a wooden rectangle measuring 19*10*1.5 cm. If necessary, the dimensions are adjusted so that movement along the guides is carried out comfortably, without jerking or jamming.

A bracket is attached to the slider. It can be assembled from boards in the shape of a hollow parallelepiped. The lower side of the figure is equipped with a round opening for fixing the tool. The end is sharpened to fit the body. Alternative fastening with a clamp and screws is acceptable. You can prevent scratches on the device and seal the connectors using a rubber gasket.

The stop for the spring is cut out of wood, the size is adjusted experimentally. Many craftsmen prefer collapsible designs, so in this design it is recommended to fasten the workpiece to a tripod with a wing bolt. The spring is attached by its sides to the stop and bracket.

The stand is secured to the frame using a perpendicularly mounted wooden plank or metal corners. A slider is placed in the grooves of the profiles, the stop is screwed with a bolt from below. The design is tested, the final adjustment of parts, sealing of fasteners and tightening of screws and clamps are carried out.

Screw jack model

Such a homemade product will require welding manipulations. Movement along the guides is carried out by rotating the handle. This reduces the speed of operation, but fixing the height is more reliable than the example above.

Required:

The bracket is made according to the dimensions of the case or replaced with a special vice. The future holder is welded to a round bushing. The nut is fixed using the same method on the opposite side of the part.

Threaded pin and pipe are installed on the base so that the distance between them does not interfere free movement bushings, and the nut slid smoothly along the threads. The guide should be firmly fixed, and grooves should be prepared for the pin to ensure its rotation around its axis.

A handle is soldered to one of the edges of the disk plane. The center of the workpiece is connected to the end of the pin. After the test and final fitting of the parts, the points of contact with the tool are covered with rubber or thick non-slip fabric.

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I welcome everyone who stopped by. The review will focus, as you probably already guessed, on a budget drill stand Caliber 96203. From interesting features model, one can note a more reinforced design compared to similar racks from this price range and the presence of a vice for fixing workpieces. For anyone interested in how the stand performed in operation, you are welcome under the cat.

General view of the stand for drill Caliber 96203:

Brief technical characteristics:

Manufacturer – Caliber
- Model name - 96203
- Material – aluminum alloy + steel
- Height – 400mm
- Clamping hole diameter – 43mm (38mm with spacer)
- Drilling depth (working stroke) – 60mm
- Table (platform) size – 150mm*150mm
- Vise - yes
- Weight – about 2.5 kg

Equipment:

Head with feed handle
- Steel tube
- Aluminum sole
- Vise
- Assembly instructions

Drill stand Caliber 96203 comes in cardboard box of blue color:

There is no additional protection during transportation, although on the other hand, all parts are metal and should not break.

The box contains the model name and brief specifications:

Assembly instructions are presented on one A4 sheet of paper:

In principle, there is nothing difficult in assembly and anyone can assemble the rack.

Appearance:

The assembled stand for drill Caliber 96203 looks like this:

She is a good help home handyman, who from time to time needs a small “drilling machine”, but due to circumstances there is no way to purchase it. I agree that this stand will not replace a full-fledged one drilling machine, but for undemanding operations this option has a right to exist. If it is necessary to carry out small drilling work, it is quite possible to install either an engraver (Dremel) or a simple electric motor. In addition, the main advantage of the rack is its mobility, so if necessary, you can take it with you to your dacha or workshop (garage).

For those who do not quite understand why such racks are needed, I will explain:

Drilling fairly accurate holes at right angles. Whatever one may say, it is almost impossible to make such a hole with a drill. During the drilling process, the drill tilts to one side or the other and the drill begins to drill out top part holes. It turns out to be a kind of cone, there is no question of perpendicularity at all. In addition, if you do not core the workpiece, it is highly likely that the drill will “move” a little away from the planned location

The need to drill several tens or hundreds of holes. These can be printed circuit boards, elements of any structures, etc. If by luck ( good experience similar work) it will be possible to drill several holes of the same type - that’s already good. But what if the same type of perpendicular holes are required? The drill weighs about one and a half kilograms and after a while the hand gets tired, the drill begins to dance from side to side. There's no need for a stand here

Drilling blind holes (to a certain depth). You can, of course, put a plastic stop on the drill, but even in this case the results will vary by a few millimeters. Everything is much easier with a stand

Drilling holes of relatively large diameter. It is clear that no one drills right away with a 10mm drill - they start small. Without fixing the drill relative to the center, the future hole will simply lead to the side. No matter how you resist it, you can forget about accuracy. In addition, drilling one large hole will require several approaches with different diameters drill. Your hands will still get tired, and the drilling accuracy will be worthless. In such cases, the stand is simply irreplaceable

Countersinking and countersinking of holes. It is clear that for such purposes you need a machine, but a high-quality stand and a hammerless drill with a metal gear housing will cope with this task.

And others

In total, if you are not involved in amateur design or assembling any homemade products and you only need a drill to quickly drill a hole in a piece of wood or a block, most likely you simply do not need a stand. If you occasionally drill some parts or just want to make the job easier, but accuracy is not important, a cheap stand will suffice. If you are doing modeling or various homemade projects, choose a high-quality stand or tabletop drilling machine. Moreover, in addition to the stand, you will need a high-quality hammerless drill.

I plan to use the stand on country dacha. For precision operations, I have a tabletop drilling machine Lerom BG-5158B, a review of which I published earlier. The drill will be the “old man” RITM MES-600ERU, which has been working for 15 years, if not more. Thanks to the standard mounting diameter of 43mm, the drill fit like a glove:

The main condition is that the drill has a lock (lock) for the start button, otherwise it will be inconvenient to use the stand:

The drill stand Caliber 96203 is a modular design. All elements are already initially assembled at the factory, the user only has to connect the modules together.

Let's start with the sole. It is an aluminum base with mounting holes on which, if necessary, you can install any vice:

I would like to note that this model initially comes with a vice. There is a similar model (96202), but without a vice. It is a little cheaper, but in my opinion, this saving makes no sense. The vice, although not ideal, is a good addition to the job:

WITH bottom side the aluminum base is simply strewn with numerous stiffening ribs, significantly increasing the rigidity of the structure:

The sole is made by injection molding. The wall thickness is 3.5mm, which at first glance may seem insufficient, but it is not. Compared to similar Chinese stands, whose thickness barely reaches 2mm, everything here is much better. But I would still like to see a steel or cast iron base. The dimensions of the platform are about 150mm*150mm, here is a small comparison with a box of matches:

The upper surface is milled, there are no distortions, the surface is rough to the touch. In completely “Chinese” racks, the top surface is not processed and is simply painted, which is why it is often distorted. Without a vice, the part slides on them. The distance from the center of the base to the tube is 8.5 cm. The smaller this distance, the smaller all possible deviations from the perpendicular, especially in versions of racks with hollow guide tubes and their weak attachment to the base of the sole. Those. the smaller this distance, the smaller the lever, therefore, it acts with less force on the “weak” places of the structure. On the other hand, the greater this distance, the larger the part we can install on the sole and drill a hole at the required distance. Here you need to choose a compromise.

At the base of the sole there are special cutouts for attaching various vices, as well as a central hole necessary for complete drilling of the workpiece, or protection against accidental drilling of the base. As I mentioned earlier, this rack model is equipped with a simple vice. They are also made of aluminum alloy, have a fairly large stroke and an “accelerated” clamping function:

The vice is not monolithic, which is why it is reinforced with several stiffening ribs:

The vice does not have clamping jaws as such, so thin parts are not pressed very confidently:

When you press hard on the part, the latter slides along the smooth painted surface and slides out. I recommend scraping off the paint layer with coarse sandpaper; the clamp should become more secure. Volumetric parts are pressed quite well, especially wood or plastic. You should not overuse a strong tightening - after all, the thread is cut into the aluminum base and high loads may not stand it.

The design is all banal and simple:

Pleased with the presence of a special orange button (“accelerated” clamp) that releases the thread. It is very useful when you don’t want to manually turn the vice handle and allows you to quickly move the pressure jaw to the desired distance.

To fasten the guide tube there is a special hole in the base, equipped with two screws:

The screws have a hex head, but there is a special socket wrench not included. I hope the manufacturer will correct this annoying misunderstanding.

The guide tube itself is steel, thickness about 1.9 mm, diameter 24.9 mm:

The pressure of the tube at the base is very good, there are no backlashes at all:

Here I would like to do important note– do not try to clamp the screws with great force. Since the base is made of aluminum alloy, the thread may turn if it is tightened too hard and you will have to look for a larger diameter screw and/or cut a new thread. The rigidity of this unit is good, but when drilling large holes with a decent amount of force, perpendicularity violations are possible. Increasing the thickness of this unit or adding stiffeners completely solved this problem. When drilling small holes Everything is fine.

Now the turn has come to the head part, into which the electric drill or electric motor is directly installed:

It is also made of aluminum alloy and covered with green paint. For ease of drilling there is a depth gauge:

As you can see from the photo, the maximum stroke is only 6cm. I would like to note that most racks have a working stroke of only 5-8 cm, no more. This is enough for most jobs. To fasten a drill or motor, there is a special clamp with a mounting diameter of 43 mm, clamped with a special screw:

If the drill has a smaller diameter or it is necessary to install, for example, an electric motor, a plastic spacer ring is included in the kit. Unfortunately, this stand does not have a restrictive ring for the tube, which is why when the stopper is unscrewed, the entire head part of the stand tends to “slide” down. Some kind of notches on the inner surface clamp in order to completely eliminate the slightest rotation of the head part around its axis.

The principle of operation is quite simple. The head part of the stand with the installed drill is fixed to the steel tube using a screw. By pressing the feed handle, we force the entire head module to move relative to this attachment point. A special black steel guide bar helps with this:

Thanks to the presence of a rigid spring, the entire head module returns to its original position without additional effort. There are only two points of contact between the head module and the pipe; there are no inserts:

Roughly speaking, the aluminum head slides up/down the steel tube. Due to a loose fit, there is a slight play. This distinguishing feature of all stands for drills - both expensive and cheap, it’s just that in the former the play is minimal and there is the possibility of their adjustment (adjustment).

Inside the head module there is a special pin designed to limit the drilling depth - a very useful function, especially when drilling blind holes:

That's all for the design. There are some comments, but overall the stand works and deserves attention. This is not the “plasticine slag” that can be found on sites for an inexpensive price.

Advantages and disadvantages of the stand:

Among the significant comments I can note the following:

The sole is made entirely of aluminum alloy. Despite the numerous stiffening ribs, the attachment point of the steel tube to the sole is rather weak. It is in this place that there are no stiffening ribs, but they are much more needed there. With light and medium pressure on the feed handle, no effects were noticed. If you press hard, deviations from the perpendicular are possible, especially when installing the head module at the end of the tube
- the threads for the screws securing the tube are cut in aluminum. In this situation, I would like to see pressed-in steel bushings. Do not overtighten the screws - there is a high probability of thread breakage
- the steel tube has a small diameter, but good thickness walls As a result, the rigidity is satisfactory. One option to partially solve the problem is to fill the tube with two-component resin with metal shavings or pure cement, or press a tube of smaller diameter inside. The rigidity will become more reasonable, but it is better to look for a rod or a thicker-walled pipe. For such a diameter, a 3-4mm thick-walled pipe should be enough
- the restrictive ring on the tube is missing. As an alternative, any plastic molded clamp will do.
- slight play in the guide. Alas, there are gaps between the tube and the guide. Over time, they will become even larger, since the tube is steel, and the guide (head part) is made of aluminum alloy. There is no mechanism for adjusting gaps. An option to solve the problem is to find suitable spacer rings or simply place a copper or tin plate (foil). Backlash is minimized to an acceptable level. In its current form (without modifications) for precision work the stand doesn't fit very well

Now the positive points:

The stand is really comfortable. If you need to frequently drill small parts, I definitely recommend it. When installing small commutator motors, for example, from screwdrivers, you get a good drilling machine soft materials, for drilling holes printed circuit boards etc.
- the stand shows good results at household use(not for precision work)
- mobility and ease of assembly are one of the main advantages. If there is no need for a rack, disassembly and subsequent assembly takes just under a minute
- compact dimensions allow you to store this rack in any closet and, if necessary, take it to the country house, garage, etc.

Tool requirements:

The accuracy and quality of the resulting holes, regardless of the type of stand used, directly depend on the following factors: tool feed (roughly speaking, this is the ratio of pressing force to the rotation speed of the cutting element), the condition of the bearing assembly of the drill (dremel/motor), straightness and sharpness of the cutting element (drill). Get perfect holes using impact drill almost impossible. Due to the design features, there is always play in the chuck spindle, so with such a drill only rough operations are possible. For more precise operations, hammerless drills, dremels or simple electric motors. It is desirable that the bearing assembly is not broken (there is no play), and the gear housing itself is metal.

Brief conclusions about the Caliber 96203 rack:

Rough (imprecise) processing of parts:

When drilling relatively soft parts (wood, plastic, non-ferrous metal), as well as when drilling small holes in steel, there are practically no disadvantages. With this option, both impact and non-impact drills are quite suitable. A slight play in the guide head does not have serious consequences on the quality of the resulting holes. When drilling hard metals, especially with a large diameter drill with good feed, deviations are possible. With a small feed, the result is satisfactory.

Finishing (precision) processing of parts:

I’ll tell you straight - it’s not particularly suitable for precision work, since there is a slight play in the head part and there is no way to correct it without manual application. Stands for precision work are 3-4 times more expensive, and they also have their own “sores,” although not so serious. These are Sparky, Proxxon, Wabeko, Lux-Tools, Enkor. At a price slightly lower than the cost of a table-top machine, their purchase is highly questionable, although in some situations they are irreplaceable, for example, drilling at an angle.

Total, for the money, the stand for the drill Caliber 96203 is quite worthy of attention. The quality of its workmanship is somewhat higher compared to the Chinese rubbish that can be found in stores, but it does not reach the leaders. For household needs - a very good purchase. A vice will be an excellent help, even despite some of its shortcomings. Some weak sides This rack can be modified (see above) and get a completely good product, but you cannot completely get rid of all the “sores”. Whether you need it or not - decide for yourself...

You can find out the current price in the official Caliber store on Ali -

You can additionally save on purchases in foreign online stores or online platforms (Gearbest, AliExpress, Banggood and others) using cashback services. Follow the link and register in the ePN or Admitad program and return on average 5-10% of the purchase amount.

The hand drill, firmly fixed to the stand, allows you to drill a perfectly straight hole in the workpiece at any angle. You can buy a Chinese machine for 1.3 thousand rubles. For craftsmen who are accustomed to doing everything with their own hands, this option is not suitable. Moreover, cheap racks have a lot of play.

Before you figure out how to make a stand for a drill with your own hands, you need to know the structure of the structure. The machine consists of the following components:

The basis of a homemade machine is the bed. The part is a platform on which the stand is fixed.
The carriage acts as a holder for a hand drill. The unit is fixed on the stand and moves along it using a mechanism made of furniture guides.
The handle is necessary to control the operation of the mechanism. The handle lowers the carriage with the drill along the stand while drilling and returns it up to its original position.
Additional components allow you to expand the functionality of the machine. It becomes possible to drill at different angles and mill small parts.

You can assemble a drilling machine from wood, metal, or use a frame from an old photographic enlarger. In any case, you need to understand an important requirement: the more powerful the hand drill, the stronger the stand is needed.

Making a wooden machine: instructions with step-by-step photos

The easiest machine to manufacture is considered to be made of wood. The disadvantage of the design is the weak strength of the material. Wood becomes deformed due to changes in humidity. Over time, play appears on the rack. It is advisable to use a wooden machine only for vertical drilling of holes.

Assembly order wooden structure next:

The carriage is made from a board. The length of the workpiece varies from 50 to 70 cm, but usually the dimensions are selected to match the drill model. On the back side of the carriage and the front side of the stand, telescopic furniture guides are fixed, serving as a movement mechanism.

The drill can be secured to the front side of the carriage with clamps, which is not very reliable.

The circle is cut out with a jigsaw. The socket is given ideal smoothness using a round file. The finished block is fixed to the carriage. A cut is made in the front and a screw clamp is installed.

The carriage with the block is installed on the rack, connecting with elements of furniture guides. All that remains is to make the control handle, but more on that later.

Making a steel machine: instructions with step-by-step photos

The metal machine consists of similar units, but they are more difficult to make due to the complexity of processing the material. The advantage of the design is its reliability and lack of play, which is ideal for installing additional components that expand the functionality of the machine.

The general structure of the metal machine is shown in the drawing, and the procedure for manufacturing the structure is as follows:

For the frame you will need a steel plate 1 cm thick. The dimensions can be taken similar to those of the wooden model.

The stand is welded from a square or round pipe cross section 32–40 mm. You can weld a sleeve of a larger diameter onto the plate, and insert a pipe into it and tighten it with a bolt.

The carriage is made from a larger diameter pipe. It should fit freely onto the stand. A steel clamp for a drill is fixed to the carriage.

Now all that remains is to put all the units into one structure and try to secure the drill with clamps.

Manufacturing of control mechanism

The main working unit of a wooden and metal machine is the carriage movement mechanism. It consists of a control handle and a spring. The last element is necessary to return the carriage to its original position.

Depending on the location of the spring installation, two options for the return mechanism can be made:

The first version of the mechanism involves installing a spring near the control handle. Two metal plates are welded from above to the end of the rack from one and the other edge. A hole is drilled in the first two plates. An axle is made from a bolt with a diameter of 10 mm, and the end of the handle is secured. A spring is placed between the other two plates. To prevent it from jumping off, pins are welded on the stand and handle. On the side of the handle at the point of fixation to the carriage pin, a longitudinal groove is cut, necessary for proper operation mechanism.

The second version of the mechanism involves installing two springs at the bottom of the carriage. They are placed in guide grooves fixed at the ends of furniture telescopic elements. The control handle is fixed to the end of the rack in a similar way, only a spring is not installed under it.

The operating principle of any mechanism is simple. During drilling, the handle is pressed down, and the springs are compressed. The carriage with the drill is directed downwards. Upon completion of drilling, the handle is released. Expanding springs return the carriage upward to its original position.

Machine made from a photo enlarger

If you have an old photographic enlarger lying around at home, you can quickly convert it into a drilling machine. The design has a ready-made frame with a stand and even a control mechanism with a handle, but without springs. The drill will have to be raised and lowered by turning the original handle of the photo enlarger. To make the machine, it is enough to disconnect the tank where the lamp with lenses is installed, and instead attach a clamp for a drill.

Manufacturing of additional units

Modernization of the design will make it possible to obtain a multifunctional machine on which you can mill small parts and drill holes at an angle.

To mill a part, it must be moved to the side. To do this, an additional horizontal stand is fixed to the slab. A vice is attached to it, moving on a carriage with furniture guides. The control handle can be made similar to a spring or a screw mechanism can be installed.

To drill holes at an angle of 30, 45 and 60°, an additional plate is installed. It is made rotary, for which holes are drilled along an arc. Fix the plate to the main stand of the machine, where it will rotate along the axis. A carriage with a feeding mechanism is attached to the additional plate.