Wardrobe bed with hand drawings and dimensions. Do-it-yourself transformer bed: options for filling the complex and its production

It arose for a reason, since I have 2 room apartment, and sometimes there isn’t enough space in it, and then there’s this double bed that takes up half the room. And with a wardrobe-bed it would be much more convenient, a neat wardrobe during the day, and a full bed at night. Since there was no money for a purchased wardrobe-bed, I decided to try to make it myself, although first I had to draw drawings, measure the dimensions, and after family council, everything had already been decided and approved, we ordered the necessary parts for the future bed.

The construction process has begun.

We decided to make the base of the bed from our sleeping place that was in use at that time, and took a mattress and an orthopedic base measuring 180x200 cm from it.

We unscrew the slats from the base; the slats are slightly curved plywood strips.

Since the furniture legs are unlikely to be able to support the weight of the future wardrobe bed, I decided to install it on two bars measuring 40x50 mm.

Then we connect the base with the side walls.

And of course we attach the top panel.

Here, in general, the base for the cabinet is ready.

We attach the resulting base to a pre-selected wall.

I think there is no need to explain what it is and why it is needed. Since all the work was carried out in the apartment, and there were a lot of shavings, it was decided to vacuum after each drilled hole.

The next step is to install the bed frame using gas springs and a mechanism for lifting the bed itself

The heaviest loads are in this place, so be careful.

This is what it looks like when connected.

And from a different angle.

Now we strengthen the base.

We fasten the slats, and this is the result.

We attach improvised doors, pulling the handles of which will turn the bed horizontally.

For convenience, we attach side cabinets where we will store bedding. Anyone who wants can attach lamps to the cornice of the closet, which is the foot of the bed.

And this is already final ready-made option wardrobe-beds.

Well, I hope so, because I have taken all measures to ensure a quiet and sound sleep!

How to make a large double bed with your own hands. In continuing the improvement of the apartment, it was necessary to solve the problem of expanding the living space of the bedroom with an area of ​​11 m2. In addition to the small area, the room had another drawback - the width was only 2 meters 45 cm. A double bed installed in the center of the room and two wardrobes along the walls significantly reduced the living space, and the small width of the room made it difficult to get to balcony door when walking around the bed. Several rearrangements of furniture did not lead to an improvement in the situation in the room - another solution was required. Trips to furniture stores and furniture-making showrooms offered alternatives. It was decided to install a built-in lift-up bed. But there were problems here too, it was not possible to find ready-made solutions double lift bed with a mattress size of 160 cm by 200 cm, and the furniture manufacturing solutions offered in the workshops did not suit me with the width of the bed when raised and the height of the bed when lowered. All the bed designs considered were based on chipboards, and this did not satisfy me, both for environmental reasons and for the reliability of long-term operation. And to top it all off, the cost of the furniture, in my opinion, was simply off the charts. This was determined by simply calculating the cost of component materials. For some designs, the retail cost of materials was more than an order of magnitude lower than the cost of the bed. Of course, I immediately had the desire to make the bed myself and with my own hands. The Internet has helped in solving this issue.

How to make a large lift-up bed with your own hands

The work began with the search for the most important component of the lifting bed - the hinges. Were considered various options lifting mechanisms with spring hinges, pneumatic cylinders, counterweights and mechanical with electric drive. The choice fell on the use of the most proven and feasible method of manufacturing a lifting bed using lifting mechanics based on spring hinges. The question “how to do it?” I decided to make the bed with my own hands with the selected hinge option. The most powerful hinges that could be found were chosen; the manufacturer guaranteed a lifting weight of the bed of 200 kg. Hinge brand 108/4 , are made in Italy. The hinges were ordered online. A month later transport company I delivered a parcel weighing about 25 kg with two hinges and retractable legs for the bed.

Receipt of the cargo became the starting point for the start of work. The next day the old bed was dismantled, the old mattress was thrown out and immediately purchased new size 2000×1600×200 mm. The place for furniture creativity was ready. Maybe this is the wrong approach, but at that time I didn’t have a clear decision on how to make a bed. Initially I was going to go along classic version– production of a wall structure where the bed was removed. But the desire to make the entire bed out of wood, not Chipboard boards, the cost of materials has greatly increased. This is where the idea came to use two closets in the room as a wall structure - a niche for the future bed. But first it was necessary to make the bed itself. Geometric calculations and glued boards offered in the nearest store led to the following design of the lifting part of the bed: side walls made of thick laminated boards with a cross-section of 250×40 mm, end walls made of 25 mm laminated boards, crossbars made of bars with a cross-section of 45×45 mm. Don’t be lazy, choose cross members without knots and defects; the fibers should be even along the entire length of the bar! I admit that, having no experience, I was tormented by doubts as to whether the bottom structure would withstand future loads, and periodically imagined how the bed under me would break;). The work was carried out in the evenings and on weekends right in the room. So, the sequence of making a homemade lift-up built-in bed. Unfortunately, a photo chronicle of the making of a homemade bed was made, but as happens, it was not preserved with a few exceptions. The bed assembly scheme was born in the process of building a homemade lifting bed.

Instructions for making a homemade lift-up bed

1. The sketch of the lifting part of the bed consisted of a box of four boards and four cross members to form the bottom for the orthopedic frame.

2. It was decided to connect the frame boards in THORN on glue (hereinafter, PVA glue was used to glue the wood, 1 liter was enough for everything). To apply the contours of the spikes, a stencil is cut out of cardboard before sawing. Carefully apply the contour for cutting, incorrect markings after cutting will ruin the board, there is no reserve in length! Remember the rule - in each connection of boards, the tenon of one board must correspond to the groove between the tenons of the other board. The boards were originally 30-50mm larger than the external size of the box; this excess is cut off after gluing the joint.

3. The tenons were selected with a jigsaw and trimmed, if necessary, with a construction knife and chisel.

4. After removing the tenons on a flat surface (for me it was the covered floor of the room), the bed frame is assembled, you need to check inner dimensions and the lengths of the diagonals - the diagonals must be equal! (±5-10mm). If necessary, the workpieces are adjusted to ensure equal diagonals.

5. Mark the installation locations of the crossbars. The grooves are selected using manual milling machine, sampling depth 30mm. There is no worse way to do this carefully with a chisel.

6. After selecting the grooves, the workpieces were polished and coated with colorless varnish on water based. A total of 3 layers were applied. After the varnish had completely dried, work continued.

7. We adjust the dimensions of the crossbars taking into account the depth and shape of the grooves made. We don’t throw away the trimmings, they will still be needed.

8. Connect the crossbars and tenon joints frame with glue. We need to prepare for this operation. Best connection happens when connected with force. The force is created using twisted rope loops wooden block. Be careful and careful!!! It is imperative to make linings to prevent damage to the boards by ropes. The loop must be twisted until significant forces arise when twisting.

It is very important to set all the angles and constantly monitor the length of the diagonals. The diagonals must be equal. The glue must be dried thoroughly and securely. It is better to leave the frame alone for a few days.

9. After making the frame, the room was rearranged; one of the cabinets was specially moved to form the second wall of the bed niche. The distance between the cabinets should be equal to the external width of the bed and the thickness of the mounted hinges.

10. Naturally, I did not attach the hinges to a simply standing cabinet. Cabinets need to be strengthened and secured. Firstly, all removable shelves in the lower part of the cabinets were firmly screwed to the walls using furniture screws, and all available threaded connections fit. Each cabinet is screwed to the wall at at least three points using corners. As a result, the cabinets stood rooted to the spot :).

11. Since there was no clarity on the method of assembling the bed, I decided to install the hinges and check the mechanism. The position of the hinges determines the height of the lowered bed and the distance from the wall of the raised bed. When choosing the position of the hinges, it is necessary to take into account the movement of the headboard along the radius of the axis of rotation. In my version, when lowering the bed, the board passes 3cm from the wall. The coordinates of the rotation axis are shown in the sketch.

12. The loop is a structure in the form of a frame installed on a support and the actual loop installed on the bed. The frames were attached to the cabinets with self-tapping screws. They must be installed symmetrically and at the same level.

13. The hinges were fastened using furniture bolts through a large washer. The hinges have holes with appropriate threads. Holes were marked and drilled in the frame boards at the installation site. Through the holes the loops were attached to the bed. I want to say right away that if you follow my path, then you need to remove at least four springs from the hinge so that you can easily lower the bed frame for work and put a small load to avoid spontaneous lifting.

14. After screwing the hinges, I installed the frame vertically. The design of the box was still light and I easily inserted the hinges into the frames and secured them with standard staples. With fewer springs, the frame was easily lowered and remained down with a small weight, and when raised it also had to be held. The room immediately felt freer. Further all work was carried out on a fixed bed.

15. The next step there was reinforcement at the bottom of the bed. The crossbars made of bars looked flimsy and it was hard to believe that they would support the weight. But there was nowhere to retreat - construction continued. It was decided to make the bottom from 6mm plywood.

16. Bars with a cross-section of 45x45mm were glued to the side walls of the frame along the perimeter. The glued bars and crossbars must be in the same plane. Clamps were used to create pressure. To avoid damaging the boards, it is necessary to place spacers. With only 5 clamps, the bars were glued in three stages. The bars were not glued only to the side walls of the top of the bed, where the legs were attached. Further work were carried out 7 days after gluing the last bar.

17. For the legs, 2 holes were selected in the upper end board of the bed frame square shape. Initially, I was tormented by doubts that the mounting holes for the legs were not enough, but subsequent operating experience showed the reliability of the fastening.

18. The bottom is made from purchased 6 mm plywood. It was not possible to make the bottom from one piece of plywood, since standard width sheet of plywood 1500mm, two sheets of plywood measuring 1500x1500mm were purchased from the store.

19. Sheets of plywood are cut so that the seams fall on less loaded bars. After cutting out all the pieces of plywood, I began work on attaching them to the bars. The plywood was supposed to be attached with glue, and to create pressure in the gluing areas, through holes with a diameter of 3 mm were drilled in the plywood to press the sheets with self-tapping screws. The plywood is laid out on the inner frame and future holes are planned; to reduce nicks in the gluing area, it is better to start drilling from the back of the plywood sheets. At the place where the legs are attached, grooves are left in the pieces of plywood for access to the fasteners of the legs.

20. The installation sites of the sheets are generously lubricated with glue and the plywood sheets are pressed using self-tapping screws. The bed is raised and again left alone for several days. Then all the screws are removed, and the remaining holes are filled with PVA glue in several stages until the glue dries completely. I left some of the screws in place.

21. With the installation of plywood, the bed became heavier and it was necessary to adjust the tension of the springs to make it easier to lift; it no longer rose spontaneously. During the drying process, the leaks in the gluing of the plywood with the bars are additionally covered with glue. This must be done to prevent possible squeaks in the bed.

22. At this stage, you can remove the bed from its hinges and install three more springs. Further, the bed will become heavier and installing the springs will require more effort.

23. Tests of the plywood-covered bottom showed (three adults stood in the center of the bed) that the bed was durable. After testing, the bottom of the bed was additionally sanded and coated with water-based varnish in three layers.

24. After the varnish has dried, the mattress is installed in the bed. The mattress in the straightened state turned out to be somewhat bigger size and therefore held tightly in the internal volume of the bed frame and its additional fastening, as in the site, was not required.

25. The next practical tests of the bed were carried out, based on the results of the presence of a large free space between the mattress and the wall in the raised state, I decided to place pillows and a blanket in the bed. To do this, four Velcro straps from the mattress packaging are installed. The ends of the belts were attached to the bottom of the bed with self-tapping screws - bugs. When the bed was raised, the blanket and pillows were pressed against the mattress with straps.

26. The finishing continued with the installation of cladding on the outer part of the bottom from fiberboard sheets - sheets from the bottom of the old bed were used. The sheets were attached with glue and pressed with postal nails. All sheets are placed in the same plane. After gluing the fiberboard, the bed was already raised with considerable effort and the tension of the springs was adjusted with the appropriate screw on each hinge to easily lift the bed.
27. For strict fixation of the bed in vertical position Limiters for the movement of the bed when lifting are installed. The limiters are installed on a horizontal board between the cabinets, which also serves as dust protection for the raised bed. The limiter is made of a piece of board; a sponge rubber shock absorber is installed at the point of contact with the bed. It is better to secure a piece of board with glue and screws. The glue fastening did not hold up and was reinforced with self-tapping screws.

IN modern world owners small apartments, are trying to find a way to use living space with maximum benefit. Particularly popular are things that can be transformed into the most various items. They are also called transformers. By purchasing one written, the consumer immediately has desk, cabinet, chest of drawers or even a sofa bed. Interesting? Yes, I agree, it’s quite practical for apartments with small areas. We already know about beds that turn into workplace student or just at a desk, and in the evening in sleeping area. Or the bed becomes an ordinary wall during the day, and a place to sleep at night. True, the cost of such furniture is very high, and not everyone can afford to purchase it.

But we are such a people that we always find a way out of the most difficult situations. This time we are invited to roll up our sleeves, think a little and make a transforming bed with my own hands, it will bring great benefit family and our authority.

Let's decide

To begin with, I suggest that you think carefully about what we want to achieve? What will we turn our bed into after sleep? Maybe we can make a desk out of it? Or a closet? Since we are small specialists and making furniture for the first time, we choose a simpler option. We decided to make a transforming bed with our own hands, turning it into a closet. First of all, we will make a drawing of the future product, with the dimensions of the product itself and marking all the places of fastenings, connections, etc. After completing the project, we buy everything necessary materials for making a bed with your own hands, for personal use.

We will need:

20mm fiberboard boards medium density(MDF);
- 10mm durable plywood;
- nails, hinges, screws, self-cutting;
- safety belt;
- glue;
- magnetic buttons or magnetic clasps.

Tools:

Folding meter;
. construction pencil;
. sandpaper;
. drill, with a set of drills;
. screwdriver;
. saw (round);
. perforator;
. anchor bolts with a diameter of 10 mm, a length of at least 80 millimeters;
. drill with a diameter of 10 millimeters;
. metal furniture corner with markings;
. grinding angle.

All the necessary materials and tools are prepared, we begin to complete our task - to make a transformable bed ourselves. First we need to make a special box, arrange a special platform, which will be the base of the bed and at the same time the outer part of the cabinet after folding, and firmly attach it to the wall surface.

Let's start production

Initially we make a rigid mount anchor bolts durable metal strip on the wall. It will serve us in strengthening the frame, metal corners. Now we begin the production of the frame itself, made with our own hands for a transforming bed.

We connect two prepared boards two meters long and one measuring 1.1 from below using screws and glue. Let the structure dry and fasten the transverse boards on the back side of the vertical boards at the top and bottom. We attach exactly the same board to outside designs. Then, from the end side of the box, we fix the side trim using self-cutting and adhesive joints. On top of the box we attach a transverse rail and an end board on it. Don't miss out very much important point. The depth of the box should correspond to the thickness of the future bed. It is better to make the box deeper than to end up with a small one that does not contain ready product and unattractively displaying the entire set of items located in the box.

Folding part

We made the load-bearing part of the bed. But before we can put a mattress here, we need to strengthen the box with transverse and longitudinal slats, on which we will put plywood a little later. This maneuver will prevent the plywood from sagging and will give strength to the box.

Now, in order to make a transforming bed with our own hands, we should proceed to the folding part of the future product. In our case, it is plywood with triangular crossbars on the sides and at the end, fastened to a horizontal board. Don’t forget to make all connections with self-tapping screws pre-lubricated with wood glue. At this stage the design is plywood sheet on all sides, surrounded by vertical and sloping end boards. We fasten both parts of the structure using special fasteners that allow the bed to assemble and unfold.

We install fasteners and design the box

At the top of the box we attach a loop through which we pull the safety belt. Its task is to hold the transforming bed in the folded state. Magnetic clasps or buttons are placed in convenient places, they prevent the product from opening when raised. We arrange a mattress, preferably a foam one, and secure it firmly to the plywood with glue. We firmly attach the legs, and so the transforming bed is almost ready. All we have to do is design the external one, and if desired, inner side boxes It is advisable to cover the place chosen for the transformer bed with a special material that does not allow moisture to pass through. This is necessary so that the bed, when folded, does not absorb fumes emanating from the wall surface, and does not become wet during its operation. For this purpose, you can choose a special construction material steam barrier. It is light, thin, warm and non-toxic, which is very important for home use. The top can be decorated with any material. Side surfaces You can additionally paint both the outside and the inside or open it with varnish. On outside plywood, you can arrange false crossbars and imitation handles, like a full-fledged product.