Do-it-yourself tire fitting manual tire changing machine drawings. Homemade manual tire changing machine with your own hands

Assembling a tire rack with your own hands is not the most difficult thing. But many car owners are wondering why make such a kit in their garage if they can go to the nearest station maintenance, perform all the necessary operations there, and even by experienced craftsmen. We will talk about this and the features of tire assembly in our material.

There are many reasons to make a tire replacement kit for your wheels. Let us present several objective arguments.

  1. Specialized service stations have constant queues for tire fitting. Especially during the season of transition to summer or winter tires. Many, without waiting in line, decide to use a handy tire mounting device in the form of a pry bar. But with the help of a pry bar you can only dismantle the tire with great difficulty. Putting a new one back is a huge problem. Having your own kit, you can quickly perform tire fitting work at any time.
  2. You can make homemade tire fitting using available materials. This allows you to make a device without investment. The cost of service station services is impressive. Calculate how much money you will spend to change tires twice a year. Over the course of several years, a decent amount will accumulate, which can be spent on more useful things.
  3. A loud sign for a tire shop is not a sign of quality services. If the service station says “tire fitting”, this does not mean that you will be provided with high-quality tire fitting services. Some people can use a pry bar to do a better job than they claim experienced master from a car service.

Stages of tire fitting

It may seem to novice motorists that changing the wheels of a car is a matter of just a few minutes. It's worth removing old or summer (winter) tires and then putting other tires in their place.

In practice, everything looks much more complicated.

  • You can also remove the rubber using a pry bar. But one mount will not solve all tire fitting problems;
  • The most difficult stage is installing new tires on the rim;
  • To install the rubber you will need to make an impressive physical effort;
  • Using force from the pry bar can damage the wheel. As a result, you will have to buy a new one. And these are impressive financial losses for operating the car;
  • A set of tools for unscheduled road tire fitting can partially help out. This kit includes mounts different forms and special wedges;
  • A set of tools makes the tire fitting process a little easier, but you shouldn’t rely on it as a permanent way to change tires yourself. There is still a high risk of accidental deformation of the tire if the mount suddenly slips or the wedges break.

Based on the above, we can say with confidence that a homemade tire mounting kit is one of best solutions, which you can make with your own hands and use for a long time. You will have time to change more than one car, and this fairly simple machine will continue to serve you faithfully. The main thing is to do it efficiently, conscientiously.

Manual tire fitting design

If you decide to make a manual tire fitting, you will need to study the drawings, look at photos of diagrams, and video assembly instructions.

Homemade tire changing machines for manually changing tires on a car are presented in the form of a design that consists of several basic elements.

  1. The base or frame of a tire changing machine. The most common solution is a frame, which consists of a pair of profile rectangular pipes. They are located parallel to each other. Steel corners are used to connect them.
  2. Vertical riser. It is mounted on the frame and is used to perform several functions simultaneously - attaching a lever for removing a tire and a platform for installing a disk.
  3. Tire changer pipe. It is welded to the handle. With its help, the equipment receives the leverage necessary to effectively and easily remove the wheel being removed.

When planning to manufacture tire fitting equipment, use only high-quality rolled steel for assembly. This is due to the increased loads that the metal will take on during dismantling and tire fitting work.

Assembling a tire changer

  • To assemble the machine, you will need a secure base. The frame will perform exactly this role. To make the frame, use high-quality profile pipes;
  • Make the distance between the two frame pipes about 70 cm. This minimum value and affects the stability of the structure;
  • Connect two parallel metal pipes with high-strength steel angles. Alternative solution- profile pipe, but with a smaller cross-section;
  • If desired or necessary, you can add adjustable legs to the frame;
  • Weld the pipe to the resulting frame. Its diameter is 20-30 millimeters. Before welding, do not forget to weld the flange, which will be located at a height of 400-600 millimeters;
  • Fastening elements are installed on the vertical axis of the structure. This metal plate, designed for installing a lever;
  • The lever will make tire removal easier. It consists of two elements - a shoulder and a paw. Due to the paw, a direct impact is exerted on the tire being dismantled.

  1. Having disconnected the rubber from the disk, you begin full dismantling work. Use a pry bar to make your tire fitting task easier. The mount will need to be long and with a welded handle. Making such a tool is not difficult.
  2. After installing the disk on the flange of your homemade tire changing machine, use a clamp to secure the wheel.
  3. With the narrow end of the pry bar turned, position the edge of the tire beyond the outer rim of the rim.
  4. Turn the disc over and complete the dismantling step of replacing the rubber.
  5. Try to protect the edges of the rim from deformation. If the edges become deformed, installing new rubber back will be problematic.
  6. To maintain the integrity of the wheel during dismantling, be sure to lubricate the edges with regular grease. Such simple tire fitting measures can significantly reduce the likelihood of tears forming in the rubber of your wheels.
  7. When performing tire fitting work to install new rubber, use a soap solution. With its help, the rubber will fit onto the disc more easily, so you will have to put in significantly less physical effort.
  8. Carefully ensure that there is no gap between the rubber and the disk when installing the tire on the disk during tire fitting.
  9. Use special tire mounting tool kits. This includes various mounts and sealing harnesses. They simplify tire fitting activities.

Tire fitting is a necessary activity for every car. But it’s up to you to decide whether to pay a lot of money for tire fitting twice a year, or assemble your own machine. With it, you, your friends and acquaintances can perform tire fitting. Or you can earn a little extra money by competing with tire service centers.

Finding a tire repair shop is not a big problem, especially in cities. But sometimes there is a need for urgent wheel repair directly at the site of a puncture or tire rupture. On the road, for example. On some business trip or travel. Far from any civilization, where there is simply nowhere to look for help. How This do?

In the old days, drivers caught by surprise used tried-and-true remedies. They were as follows:

The big disadvantages of the method were its labor intensity and the almost inevitable cases of the disk being crushed at the edges.

For tubeless tires such defects are fatal. It will definitely lose its tightness and will not hold air. To prevent this from happening, the damaged disc will have to be straightened or thrown away. In such a situation, the cash costs for a new disk are inevitable.

In a standard tire service, virtually the same operations are performed. The only difference is that there they are more thought out, mechanized, and more careful in relation to the disk. As a result, after repair it exactly retains its previous geometry. But How achieve this himself?

What modern craftsmen offer

If you look on the Internet, you can see many options. homemade mechanized devices for wheel beading. The overwhelming number of them are fundamentally focused on capabilities professional equipment. The features relate mainly only to some design solutions.

Machines manufactured in a makeshift way, perform the same functions as standard mechanisms in tire shops. At the same time they:

  • simpler in design;
  • have a manual drive for dismantling;
  • reliable in operation;
  • small-sized;
  • easy to disassemble and convenient to store (some models can fit in the trunk of a car);
  • allow for operational repair outside the tire shop, directly at the scene of the accident;
  • the vast majority of all handicraft devices are designed for wheels passenger cars.

It goes without saying that wheel removal is incomparably more economical for owners of such machines than a similar service at a car service center.

A few illustrative examples

  1. Vertical console with bracket on the table.

Device:

  • an improvised table with a vertical stand (on top there is a threaded thread);
  • locking washer for fixing the disc with internal thread and bushing-axle;
  • movable console with bracket;
  • a metal rod with blades that bend the tire bead away from the disc;
  • rod fixing bolt.

Design models:

Non-adjustable paddle

Handicraft design (the main drawback is the lack of a system for pressing the rod; the blade has to be constantly hammered with a sledgehammer).

Vertical console with bracket

Adjustable paddle

Modern design. The console and bracket with spatula were purchased at an auto parts store. The disadvantages include the short handle, which does not provide effective pressure on the tire.

Vertical console with bracket without table

The auxiliary tool, console and bracket are presented here in a factory-made version. Any plane can be used as a table. The disadvantage is that the dismantling process is cumbersome, requiring the use of many tools at once. In addition, there is no table here - all operations have to be performed, figuratively speaking, “on the knee”.

There are many other options. There is no point in considering all inventions: they are designed approximately the same.

Let's look at one model. It eliminates as much as possible all the above-mentioned shortcomings. It is quite simple to manufacture the entire machine yourself, without resorting to the cost of purchased spare parts.

DIY tire changing machine

Drawings with dimensions- the first thing where any practical activity begins. In this case, we will consider a very convenient version of the machine, which combines the entire range of tire fitting tasks.

This circuit diagram device and functioning of the beading mechanism:

In its natural form (after fairly simple assembly) the machine will look like this:

How to assemble this machine and from what?

Design elements:

Frame

It is made of a rectangular steel profile measuring 50x25 mm. It needs to be cut into five pieces and welded into one stable base. Run length parallel stops and the profile pipe connecting them can be adjusted to the dimensions of the car trunk.

Vertical stand

Made from a metal pipe with a diameter of no more than 50 mm (according to the width of the frame components). Attaching to the base can be done using two methods:

Welding into one inseparable whole (non-separable version).

Fixed with a bolt. In this case, a sleeve corresponding to the internal diameter of the pipe must be welded to the frame, and a hole must be drilled in the pipe itself and threaded for the bolt. This option makes the structure collapsible, smaller in size and mobile (suitable for use on the road).

Vertical stand attachments

Washer-platform (flange) with holes for mounting the disk. It is intended for installation, external inspection of the damaged wheel and its final dismantling after dismantling.

Steel corner

With ribs 40-50 mm for attaching a loop under the lever. It is tightly welded to the stand; the loop itself can be fastened with screws through drilled holes with thread (as in the diagram above). But more reliable and simple welding method connection of parts.

Lever arm

Designed for removing a tire rim from a disk.

The diagram shows the loop principle of connecting the lever to the riser . He gives the ability to apply effective pressure on the tire and tear its edge off the rim.

The dimensions shown in the drawing are indicative only. The main thing is that the general proportion is maintained.

Element A

Short tubular bracket with hole for extension pipe. The extension cord is removable. It is inserted into the device before starting work and provides greater pressing power.

Element B

Tire rim support (foot). It is made from the same rectangular profile 50x25 mm as the frame. One end of the stop is attached to the bracket through a loop, the second is flattened and sanded to a rounded shape. This avoids damage to the rubber when pressing with your paw.

Note

When choosing a material for a machine, one should take into account the large loads on all structural elements. Soft steel grades (such as St. 45) are unsuitable here.

To avoid metal corrosion, all machine components must be painted with a persistent oil emulsion.

How to remove a wheel

Manual the machine works as follows. Sequence of operations:

Visual inspection. The wheel is installed on the washer pad and checked for surface damage to the tire and rim.

Beading:

— the wheel is placed on the support frame under the lever;

— an extension cord is inserted into the lever;

— the paw is directed to the joint of the tire with the disk;

- the lever is pressed.

The operation is carried out sequentially along the entire diameter of the rim. As a result, the entire outer part of the tire is separated from the rim.

Then the same steps are repeated on the back of the wheel.

Complete dismantling is carried out already on the flange vertical stand with a simple mount. It is better if it has a length sufficient for easy removal tires from the disk.

Wheel mounting

What is important to consider at this stage:

Disk integrity

The geometry of the rim should not be violated in any place. Especially great importance this has for a tubeless tire. Small dents on stamped discs can be straightened with a hammer. In case of major defects, the disk must be replaced. Damaged cast wheels cannot be straightened due to the fragility of the metal and are always replaced.

Tire lubrication

It reduces friction between rubber and metal during installation. A thin layer of lithol or soap solution is applied to the inner edge of the tire. This does not in any way affect the tightness and quality of the wheel.

No gaps between the disk and tire

Any gap can cause air leakage, especially from tubeless rubber. This installation defect can be easily eliminated by tapping the tire rib with a heavy hammer when inflating the wheel on a machine. As a last resort, you can use special sealing bands and gels (they are sold in all automotive stores).

Conclusion

From all of the above, a simple conclusion suggests itself: Tire changer easy to do yourself. Moreover, in any version: both stationary and mobile. One day off - no more, will be needed to purchase materials and manufacture equipment. This requires only skillful hands and desire.

The reward for your hard work will be time and money. This way you will definitely save them!

Video

Whatever the car, you will still need to change tires periodically. If you don’t want to spend money, then you should learn and carry out tire fitting yourself. Thanks to this, you can save a lot of time and money on auto repair services.

Wheel maintenance includes various tasks:

  • regularly checking tire pressure;
  • tread condition monitoring;
  • systematic replacement of winter and summer tires, etc.

Why is it so important to monitor the condition of your car wheels?

Traffic safety depends on this, as well as the behavior of the car on the road in different conditions. The tread provides reliable grip on the road and stability of the car when entering a turn.

We are talking not only about a decrease in safety, but also about increased fuel consumption, wear rates of suspension parts, etc.

Replacing car tires

If you have your own own garage Where you can not only store the car, but also carry out the necessary repairs, it is worth stocking up on the necessary tools.

To change tires you will need:

  • a set of keys;
  • second set of wheels.

If replacement occurs on the road due to a breakdown, then you must drive to the side of the road and put up a special warning sign. You should also park the machine on a level and stable place.

First you need to engage first gear and pull the handbrake. Next, the car is carefully raised on jacks by 3–4 cm. Using a special wrench, the fastening nuts are unscrewed. The new wheel is installed and secured. The nuts should be tightened gradually in a diagonal sequence to avoid distortion.

Due to the fact that a tire breakdown can happen at any time and on any part of the route, it is better to always have a working spare tire with you.

How to dismantle and flare car wheels - work procedure

Tire fitting is actually repairing a damaged wheel, replacing tires and inner tubes. This procedure is quite complicated and even dangerous, especially if you do not have all the necessary tools at hand. Therefore, first you should think about whether you should carry out tire fitting yourself or should you turn to professionals?

To work you will need:

  • tools for removing a wheel from a car;
  • mounting blades;
  • soap solution.

In auto repair shops, special equipment is used to perform this task - machines, on which all necessary tasks are performed quickly and without problems.

To repair a wheel, you must remove the tire from the metal rim. To do this, mounting blades are used, which must be used to pry the rubber and pull it out. To simplify the task, you should first lubricate the rim with a soap solution. You should also think about how to secure the wheel so that it does not jump out during operation.

Once the tire can be removed, replacement and further repairs can be made depending on the need. Installing the tire on the disc occurs in the same way in reverse order.

Tire fitting takes a lot of effort and time. You need to be prepared for this. In addition, it should be noted that repairs in most cases will still require the help of professionals.

Thus, the following disadvantages of this procedure can be noted:

  • it takes too much time and effort,
  • danger of injury,
  • the likelihood of damaging the rim or tire.

The only advantage is the opportunity to save money.

That is why many motorists prefer to contact specialized car services. IN major cities Usually there are no problems with them and they can be found even close to your home. There are also special mobile repair teams ready to drive to any location.

Having necessary tools and equipment, such specialists repair car wheels in literally a matter of minutes. Usually the only problem is the presence of long queues, especially during seasonal changes in tire sets.

Video: tire fitting using a homemade machine


Hello to all DIY lovers. Car owners are familiar with the situation of replacing tires from winter to summer or vice versa. There are many options on the Internet for this purpose, both machines and individual devices. In this article I will tell you how to make a tire changing machine with your own hands, which will help every car enthusiast to dismantle or flare the wheels on his car, regardless of whether it is tubeless or not. Also, this device will save your money and add experience in welding work.

Before you start reading the article, I suggest watching a video with testing of this tire changing machine.

In order to make a tire changing machine, you will need:
* Welding machine, electrodes
* Personal protective equipment: leggings, welding mask
* Profile pipe 40*20
* Wire brush
* M12 bolts and nuts for them
* Motor rotor bearing
* Magnetic corners for welding
* Angle grinder and cutting disc
* Car camera
* Construction corner
* Metal pipe 60 mm
* Metal corner 50 mm

That's all you need to assemble such a homemade product.

Step one.
The first step is to make a rack out of the pipe, to which the rest of the “equipment” will be attached. Let's take it metal pipe with a diameter of 60 mm and at the bottom we weld two 50 mm corners to the side so that the 40*20 profile fits inside, we place the corners at an angle relative to each other of about 120°. We drill holes in the upper part of the corners and weld nuts for M12 bolts, they will later hold profile pipes.











For greater strength, we weld a corner connecting the two previous ones. On the other side of the pipe, we weld another 50 mm corner and drill holes in it for two M12 bolts and to the corner itself with inside We weld the nuts.

Step two.
Now we are making a base that will serve as a support for the wheel, on which the residual pressure in the wheel will be released. We make sections for the base from the 40*20 profile. We take a welding machine, electrodes, leggings, a protective mask and weld the frame parts. In order to understand how it should look, you can use a photograph; the dimensions of the welded base should be slightly larger diameter wheels.




We weld the profile along the edges at an angle of 45°, and for strength we install a partition from the same profile pipe, and also attach a 50 mm corner to the base to support the wheel.

Step three.
To make it easier to release the residual pressure in the wheel, we make a lever. We weld ears onto the pipe with a hole for an M12 bolt in two places, bottom and top. We weld the ears onto a pipe with a diameter of 32 mm, departing about 15 cm from the beginning. Then we cut the pipe with a diameter of 28 mm to a length of 15 cm using an angle grinder. When working with an angle grinder, do not forget about safety glasses and gloves, and also be careful and hold the tool firmly.

We drill holes in the pipe for an M12 bolt and twist the two finished parts together. At the very top of the pipe, stepping back a little from the very edge, we drill a hole for the bolt, and in its lower part we weld a corner, which we will use to deflate the wheels. In the upper eye we install a lever made from the 28th pipe; it is connected to the previous pipe using an M12 bolt. The entire design of the lever looks like this.










We weld two corners to the top of the pipe, and also cut out a round piece of rubber from the car inner tube that will cover the sharp edges of the corners. We drill a hole in the corner that will be used to lock the wheel. We weld a pipe of smaller diameter to the corners; this will serve as a stop during the beading/unbeading process.



Step four.
TO long pipe We weld a bearing and a corner to one of the ends; everything is much clearer in the photo.









For these purposes, a bearing from an electric motor was perfect, although it is not known which one, part of the rotor shaft with the bearing itself was sawed off and welded to the pipe, after which the corner itself was welded. We weld a rounded tip to the other end of the pipe; in this case, we sawed off the leg of the moped kick starter, which just fit; if necessary, we sand the sharp edges sandpaper fine grain.

Step five.
After all the previous steps, all that remains is to make the stops. Using an angle grinder, we saw off the necessary sections of 40*20 profiles and install them in pre-made seats with a bolt for fixing, for more better fastening We drill a hole in the profile for the bolt, so it definitely won’t go anywhere.

How much trouble the operation of dismantling and installing tires on passenger car wheels causes for beginners (and not only) car enthusiasts! Bent rims, torn tire beads, tubes bitten by a mount, and even wounded fingers are frequent accompaniments of this work. Therefore, many car owners prefer to go to a car service center and entrust it to specialists, which has its own well-known negative sides.

In addition, as someone subtly noted: tire punctures happen more often the further you are from a car service center. Taking into account all of the above, I set myself the task: to develop a simple and small-sized device that works in conjunction with a jack (available with any car) and facilitates the beading and beading of tires. According to reviews from fellow car enthusiasts who had the chance to use this manufactured device, and based on personal experience I can say that the problem was solved quite successfully.

The device consists of three parts (assembly units) that have very simple design. They can be made by a home-made car enthusiast with basic metalworking skills. The structure and operating principle of the device are clear from photographs and drawings. The plank is a steel plate with dimensions of 140x36x4 mm. Three threaded (M8) pins are welded to it, perpendicular to its plane: one in the middle and two at the ends.

The outermost mounting pins are the same - simple threaded rods. The distance between them on the bar corresponds to the diameter of the circle along which the centers of the mounting holes of the car wheel disk are located (for Zhiguli - 100 mm). The central pin is stepped: at the bottom there is a collar-heel, above there is a thickened part, at the top there is a rod-axis with a thread at the end.

The collar serves for better stability, the thickened part serves to support the rod at the height of the wheel rim, the rod-axle serves to fix one of the ends of the rod to the rod. Fastening the pins on the plate - any in an accessible way: on a thread with lock nuts, riveting in square holes, etc., as long as the pins do not fly out or turn.

I have these parts inserted into round holes with a diameter of 8 mm in the plate and welded to it from below. In order to speed up the installation of the device on the wheel, appropriate wing nuts were selected for the pins (if there are none, then you can get by with ordinary ones). The rod is made of steel rod with a diameter of 16 mm. One end of it is sharpened to the profile of the mounting blade and well polished. Nearby, behind the profile surface and in its plane, a hole with a diameter of 9 mm was drilled in the rod.

The other end is bent in a heated state with a hook and here, not far from the end, the same hole is also drilled, only its axis is perpendicular to the axis of the hole at the other end of the rod. The cable is steel. Its diameter is selected so that it “doubly” easily passes through the lower hole in the heel support and in the longitudinal groove of the jack stand, into which it is inserted for work. The cable is tied into a ring.

When working, it is better to leave the place of the tie outside the “pulling” zone - throw it on a support (wheel wrench) or on the jack bracket. The tire removal device operates as follows. First, a strip is secured to the wheel rim using outer pins and wing nuts. Then the straight end of the rod is inserted under the bead of the tire (like a mounting paddle), and its curved end is put on the central pin of the bar and secured with a wing nut.

Next, a “balloon” wrench is inserted into one of the windows closest to the bar in the wheel disk (head up) and the lower outlet, the loop of the cable ring, is placed on it. Its other outlet, previously passed under the bar and into the heel hole, is placed on the jack bracket. After this, the jack is installed on the rod, and its handle rotates “ascending”, i.e. clockwise.

In this case, the cable is “selected” and moves the rod with the jack to the place where the lower loop of the cable is attached (to the head of the wheelbrace), and the straight end of the rod brings the tire bead to the wheel rim. Then the wheel key is moved to another window and the operation continues. When replacing a tire, its second bead is brought out in a similar way to the same side of the disk.

The force on the jack handle when performing this work is approximately the same as when lifting a car. To mount the tire on the wheel, the position of the rod changes. Now its curved end is inserted between the rim and the tire bead, and the straight end is attached to the central rod of the bar. The positions of the key, cable and jack remain the same as when removing the tire.

The device is designed for the jack of Zhiguli type cars, but by adjusting certain dimensions of the parts it can be made for other jacks of various brands of cars. The use of the device is especially effective when mounting and dismantling tires with hard sides.

But the most important thing is that not only the wheels and tires, but also the hands remain intact. The reliability of the device is ensured by the simplicity of its design. The weight of the device (without standard equipment) is a little more than half a kilogram; and it fits in a tool bag along with a set of tools.

Drawing of a homemade tire changing machine

Video on the topic

v-mireauto.ru

How to make a tire changing machine with your own hands?

The most convenient, fastest and most reliable way to replace tires is at a specialized tire workshop. But it’s not always possible to go there, and there may be a lot of reasons for this, one of which is the cost of replacement. That's why some motorists try to do everything themselves. Only this will require certain equipment. We will tell you further about how to make a simple tire changing machine in your garage.

Do you need a wheel beading machine in your garage?

In fact, if you look from the outside, the procedure for changing tires does not seem such a difficult task. You just need to take it off old tire and put a new one on the disk. But as soon as you start dismantling, one problem arises - you simply lack physical strength.

You can purchase a special travel kit that will make the task easier. It includes a set of various mounts and special wedges. But if the tire has been used for a long time, then considerable effort must be made to peel it off from the edge of the disk.

It is precisely in such cases that wheel beading may require some homemade devices that will be designed specifically for your situation. One of these is a tire changing machine.

Design features of a tire changing machine

The design of a tire changing machine is very simple and similar to the design of a rack and pinion jack. It consists of: a frame, a vertical riser and a pipe with a handle.

The frame consists of two parallel pipes made of a rectangular profile. They will be connected to each other with a steel angle.

The vertical riser is attached to the frame and performs a number of tasks: attaching the lever and a platform for fixing the wheel rim.

The pipe with the handle will act as a lever when removing the tire.

Important! When constructing all the components listed above, you need to stock up on high-quality rolled metal, because when performing tire fitting, the machine will undergo heavy loads.

Advantages of a homemade design

A do-it-yourself machine for beading car wheels has many advantages:

Important! At correct use The wheels of such a machine will not be damaged.

When you decide to build a homemade tire changing machine with your own hands, we recommend searching for suitable diagrams and design drawings on the Internet.

  • Take two strong profile pipes, place them parallel to each other at a distance of at least 70 centimeters. This way the structure will be more stable.
  • Connect them together with a corner or smaller pipe. Additionally, you can install legs that will be adjustable.
  • Next, weld a pipe with a cross-section of 20 or 30 millimeters to the crossbar. First weld the flange at a height of approximately 50 centimeters.
  • Weld fastening element to the vertical part. They will use a steel plate. With its help, a lever will be installed, which will be required to remove the tire from the wheel rim. The lever will consist of two parts: a shoulder and a foot.

Now that you already have a DIY tire changing machine, you can start disassembling the wheel. You will also need a long tire iron from the travel kit. You can weld a handle to it.

  • Place the wheel on the flange and secure with a clamp.
  • Using the narrow end of the pry bar, move the edge of the rubber beyond the outer part of the wheel rim. Turn the wheel over and remove the tire completely.
At this stage, it is important to carefully consider the following points:

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auto.today

Homemade tire fitting

22May

Often, a punctured wheel or a cut tire on a car, especially in villages remote from cities, makes the car owner want to make a homemade tire changing machine. There are compelling facts for such a decision

  1. Always available
  2. No need to go anywhere
  3. Save time
  4. Saving money
  5. Manufacturing materials can be found everywhere
  6. Device drawings are essentially not needed
  7. Ease of production

To make such a device for servicing the wheels of your car, we will need the following materials

  • Channels and corners
  • Bulgarian
  • Welding machine
  • Old unnecessary ordinary metal disk from a car wheel
  • A few bolts and nuts

Let's get started

The machine can be made either mobile or stationary; the difference, in fact, is only in the presence of the wheels themselves.


That's all

The process of dismantling a wheel on a homemade tire machine


Since this is quite difficult to explain in words, let alone imagine, we will use folk wisdom, which says that it is better to see once than to hear a hundred times

Disassemble a wheel on the road

If there is a need to disassemble a wheel in road conditions, then proceed as follows:

  • Remove the wheel from the car
  • Bleed all the air out of it completely.
  • Thread a tow rope or strong rope through the hole in the disc
  • Place the jack on the tire as close to the rim as possible
  • Place the cable on the jack, first tying it so that it creates a tight girth ring between the tire and the jack
  • Raise your jack - thereby you will influence the tire, and it will separate it from the disk, while it is better to press with your weight on the opposite part of the wheel from the jack

The photo below will clearly let you understand the whole meaning of this process.

Explosive inflation of a tubeless car wheel

If after this you need to quickly inflate the wheel and you have a tubeless one, then even an electric machine pump will not help you here, because the air will escape through the leaky holes faster than the pump will pump.

How to deal with this situation, just take something very flammable; you can usually get gasoline from the tank or from the fuel hose in the engine compartment.

  • We need about 50 grams of gasoline
  • Pour it into the tire, maybe at the junction of the tire with the disk, and throw a match into this place or set it on fire with something on an extension cord - for example, burning paper put on a stick, since when igniting gasoline will happen a sharp bang and the wheel may even jump, and to avoid injury you need a handy extension cord for ignition
  • After the clap in your tire there will be approximately 0.5-2 atmospheres, immediately connect your electric, foot or hand pump and pump up the tire to the required pressure before it goes flat. The video below clearly demonstrates such an explosive process of inflating car tires.