Independent production of interior doors. Carpentry lessons

The overwhelming majority of people believe that only a specialist carpenter can make an interior door out of wood, and this requires a large amount of professional equipment. In reality, everything is not so complicated.

Of course, you will need some tools and technical knowledge, but you don't have to be a carpentry guru. And if you approach the issue with due interest, diligence and accuracy, then the result obtained will be much cheaper than the doors sold on the market. To begin with, you can watch how to make an interior door in the video.

How to make interior doors with your own hands: manufacturing stages

To make a wooden interior door with your own hands, you will need to perform a number of works:

• preparatory work;
• production of frame and canvas;
• sizing;
• drying.

The first step is to find a suitable room for all the work. Both specialized and residential premises are suitable for this. It is only important to take into account that during the manufacturing process a large amount of dust and waste will be generated, and a sufficient level of humidity and ventilation is also necessary.

The workspace is cleared of all foreign objects so that nothing interferes. Now you can get to work.

First you need to find out the size of the door leaf based on the size of the frame. To do this, the canvas is taken four millimeters shorter in height and width than the door frame, and in the absence of a threshold, a gap of 7-10 mm is left at the bottom.

Manufacturing of door leaf

The easiest way to use fiberboard sheets as the basis for an interior door leaf. Moreover, sheets must be used of the highest quality and without serious defects, as in the photo.

Two equal pieces are sawn off according to the size of the future door, and it is necessary to strictly observe right angles and straight lines. If difficulties arise, you can use an old door - trace its outline and cut it out with a jigsaw.

Now you can start creating a wooden frame with your own hands. A standard inch unplaned board is suitable for it. It is necessary to saw off two blanks with a length equal to the height of the door, and three blanks equal to the width of the door. The edges of the wood blanks are leveled and sanded.

Paper or cellophane is spread on the floor or other surface, and an MDF sheet is laid on top, smooth side down. Boards are laid on top of the sheet, repeating the contours of the future door. At this stage, you should decide where the top of the door is and where the bottom is. In addition, the presence of handles and a locking system is taken into account. If there is glazing, you can immediately estimate its location.

Each design element is marked with a pencil so that it can be repeated in the future. The photo shows the principle of marking. When marking, accuracy is required.

After this comes the crucial moment - you need to make a tenon by cutting half the thickness of the tree. Each wooden spike will act as a reliable fastening. It is important not to get carried away with sawing; it is better not to finish cutting and remove the excess when assembling using a chisel. The wooden tenon is made simple, and a straight overlay with a notch is made at half the thickness of the board.

After adjustment, you need to lay all the blanks again on the fiberboard sheet and assemble the frame, adjusting it and getting rid of any irregularities that arise. All contacting surfaces are coated with special wood glue using a flute brush.

The coated parts are placed on the sheet, clearly joining the edges of the frame and the sheet so that there are no gaps or bulges. Again, you need to coat the frame with glue on top and attach a second sheet of fiberboard. Laying the second sheet should be done with extreme precision and accuracy, avoiding possible displacements and distortions.

The final stage of creating the canvas

After gluing, all that remains is to carefully place a uniformly distributed weight on the door leaf. For convenience, you can place a thick sheet of plywood, chipboard or similar material on the canvas, preventing the formation of dents and other deformations.

As for the cargo, you can use almost anything as it:

• weights;
• dumbbells;
• books;
• small furniture;
• bags with construction materials, etc.

After drying the door leaf, you can begin finishing the door:

• prime;
• paint over;
• cover with self-adhesive film or paper;
• attach fittings;
• embed the locking system and hinges.

Thus, it is clear that making interior doors yourself is not difficult and does not require large financial costs. It is only necessary to accurately make calculations and apply markings. The whole process can be watched on video.

If you need to make a sliding interior door, then at the stage of measuring the blanks you should take into account the design of the sliding elements, but otherwise the technology remains the same.

Often a dispute arises between city apartment owners about whether they can make interior doors with their own hands. And this conversation usually divides the people discussing into two sides. The most important thing here is to understand or, more accurately, take into account the fact that doors can be different in design, which is why all the difficulties in manufacturing and discussions on a similar topic arise. However, despite the fact that opinions are divided, you can make interior doors yourself.

Interior door design

Interior doors are an important part of the interior of the room and the entire home as a whole. Doors make us feel protected. Interior doors perform important functions - they isolate residents from the smells, sounds and other people present in the apartment. Today, there are two main types of interior doors - panel and panel. The designs of these doors differ from each other. Panel type doors consist of a frame, panels inserted into it and glass. The area that is distinguished by profiled thin frames and a shield made of plastic or plywood, and which covers the frame, is called a panel.

Paneled doors are characterized by excellent sound insulation and light weight. A paneled door is not suitable for making with your own hands, because it has a complex structure, and just watching a video about making an interior door is not enough. Interior panel doors are primarily used for self-furnishing of residential buildings. They consist of a smooth board that you can line with plastic or plywood. The advantage of this type of door is its affordable cost and excellent quality. In addition, such doors are universal! They can be installed as entrances to the bathroom and as interior ones.

Types of coatings

There are four types of coatings that are used for doors: veneering, lamination, painting and tinting. The simplest coating methods are tinting and painting.

Solid wood and MDF doors are painted. A layer of paint is applied to the canvas, sometimes two or three layers. The quality and durability of painted interior doors depends on the paint and hardware you use. When tinting, it is customary to cover the doors with varnishes - translucent or transparent. Using this method, you can most clearly convey the texture of the wood. Doors that are made of hardwood are best suited for tinting because soft wood will leave minor scratches and dents.

When laminating, the film is pressed onto the base without the use of glue. The film used is plastic or paper, which is almost always used. When veneering, a thin film of wood is glued onto the door leaf. It is desirable that its thickness be more than 1 millimeter. Veneer is usually applied to a substrate and then varnished. Veneering is intended for solid wood and for interior doors made of MDF.

Types of interior doors

Today there are many types of interior doors, which differ in the way they open. But there are five main types: hinged, pendulum or swinging, compartment or sliding doors, folding or accordion doors, and stable doors.

Hinged doors are the most common type; they open in one direction. They are single- or double-leafed. If the panels are of different widths, then such doors are called one and a half doors. According to installation options, hinged interior doors are left-handed, which opens to your left, and right-handed, if the door opens to your right. Their main drawback, which is noticeable especially in small rooms, is that they require space to open them.

Pendulum doors are considered a subtype of doors that have a swing opening system, but at the same time they have their own zest. Their distinctive features lie in the fact that swing doors open in both directions. True, because of this characteristic, they are not very common and are more of an individual nature of use. You are unlikely to see swinging doors in an ordinary city apartment in a multi-storey building. But you will probably find them at the entrance to the subway. Swing doors are available in aluminum, glass or plastic.

Interior sliding doors can be opened by sliding the leaf inside the wall or along special guide rails. They look more aesthetically pleasing when they are able to move inside the partition. Sliding doors are ideal for spaces with limited space because they do not require additional space to open.

Folding interior doors are made of separate panels that are 10-15 centimeters wide, which fold when opened to the edge of the opening, or can be retracted inside the wall. Silence and ease of sliding of the panels are ensured by bearings built into the rollers. The panels can be made solid or glazed. For glazing it is customary to use stained glass or ordinary glass. But this is twice as expensive as solid doors.

Stable doors are a variation of ordinary swing doors. They were originally installed in stables, which is why these doors got their name. Stable doors are made of two halves, each of which has its own hinges and locks. This type of interior doors is especially popular in the West. But in a home environment, such products would be appropriate to protect children, because the lower part can block their path to the street. Stable doors are best installed in the kitchen.

Characteristics of materials

In past times, doors were made of natural wood, but time moves forward. And today there are many substitutes that imitate natural wood. Combined or artificial materials are an order of magnitude less expensive than natural wood. But this does not mean that the technology for making interior doors made of wood has sunk into oblivion; on the contrary, nowadays they cost several times more, but still occupy a leading position in this industry.

Wood

Among coniferous species, pine is mainly used to create doors, which has become widespread due to its low cost. Pine wood, exposed with colorless varnish, is very popular with many people due to its beautiful light color and pattern with dark spots. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that pine is a rather soft material and with a slight blow from sharp objects, a noticeable depression remains on the wooden canvas, which spoils the overall cosmetic appearance of the canvas.

There is often an opinion among door installers that interior doors made of pine should not be installed in damp rooms, such as a winter garden, bathroom, swimming pool, due to the fact that when air humidity fluctuates, pine wood shrinks and cracks, that is, deformation occurs . Everything could be so, but with proper modern processing with special high-quality materials, this bad property of pine disappears completely.

The following materials are more expensive and look richer: beech, oak, maple and mahogany. The cost of this material depends on the beauty and super strength of this tree relative to other conifers. The service life of such doors with the correct manufacturing technology, processing, proper installation and care measures is more than one decade.

Artificial materials

Artificial substances for making interior doors with your own hands, for example, chipboard and MDF, of course, cannot compare with doors made of natural wood, their durability and strength, but their price is much lower than doors made of natural wood. The useful life of such doors is shorter, and the environmental qualities of such doors remain in doubt, despite the fact that manufacturers guarantee that they are environmentally friendly.

Typically, interior doors made from combined materials are mainly represented by MDF, chipboard and valuable wood veneer. When the door leaf is covered with a rather expensive veneer, the appearance is practically no different from natural wood, because veneer is made from wood. Regarding strength and service life, we can say that these parameters are almost no different from the qualities of natural materials. Interior doors made from combined materials are the cheapest and are not afraid of fluctuations in humidity, so they are less subject to deformation than their counterparts made from natural materials.

Glass

When considering all the materials that can be used to create interior doors, one must not forget about such a material as glass. Glass inserts in doors are an original decoration of an interior door and the interior as a whole and carry some functionality. Thanks to the inserted glass, much more daylight enters the room through the door leaf, and this is very important for darkened rooms.

Thanks to the variety of colored glass shades, you can create a variety of designs in the room. There are different types of glass: frosted, transparent, multi-colored, with drawings and patterns. The safest glass is tempered glass, which, when broken, breaks into very small pieces, but at the same time they are not capable of causing harm to a person. Tempered glass is strongly recommended for installation in a children's room.

Metal

When interior doors are made, metal is used. Hinges and handles are made from it. The cost of fittings usually depends on the design, ease of use of the product and coating. Hinges can be universal and detachable. The advantage of detachable hinges is easy and quick removal.

To remove the door, you just lift it up and it will come off the hinges quite easily. Such hinges, unlike universal ones, open the interior door to the right or left. Universal hinges are designed to open in any direction. But removing a door from universal hinges is much more difficult than removing regular doors.

To remove them, you need to disassemble the hinge; to do this, pull out the rod located in the middle. There are hinges on sale that will allow the interior door to open in both directions, depending on the direction in which the person is moving. Also, the price depends on the design and the material from which the door handle cover is made.

Don't forget about the inconspicuous material called sealant. It is not noticeable when the door is closed, but you should know that it performs an important function, which is why it is installed. The material performs such functions as increasing sound insulation, preventing heat leakage, as well as the entry of foreign odors and dust into the room. Seals are made from various materials and come in various sizes and colors.

Preparing tools for work

Making a paneled door is a very complex process that requires certain knowledge, skills and experience. But along with this, there are interior doors that are easy to manufacture and do not require special skills and require a minimum of tools. This is a screwdriver, a hacksaw, a kitchen knife or chisel, a tape measure or meter, and also a piece of coarse sandpaper.
To make doors you will need the following materials:

• Thick boards of approximately 50 millimeters or timber for the box: two timber for the vertical part and one shorter for the horizontal part;
• Slats or bars for the frame: 2 long bars for the vertical part and 3 short bars for the horizontal parts of the door leaf;
• Fiberboard - enough to cover the doors on both sides;
• Self-tapping screws and glue - for connecting parts;
• Finishing materials: decorative film, veneered plywood, paint and varnish - depending on the design of the future door;
• Door fittings: handles, hinges, locks (latches) - all of your choice.

Making an interior door

There are openings in the walls of your houses that require the installation of a door - this is an axiom. If such an opening is located at the entrance to a residential building, then the best option would be to install a table door. The cheapest door is considered to be the one that is remade with your own hands. Let's start remodeling! We remove the door that we are going to remodel from its hinges and place it on the table, after which we remove all the fittings from it, that is, the hinges, handles and lock. After dismantling the door, you need to decide how it will look after the alteration.

Decide whether it will look like a solid surface, or whether you want to make it with a window frame. The second option will be somewhat more complicated, although in the first one you will have to remove old paint from a large area. Next, we will tell you how to create doors with window frames, what equipment to use for making interior doors, and how to veneer the entire surface.

The first stage is marking. To do this you need to use a large square! Typically, markings are made using a ruler and a square; lines are drawn with a marker or pencil directly on the surface of the door, following the paint on it (it will be removed). Make the following indentations on the sides of the door: more than 160 millimeters at the top; below - more than 500 mm; on the sides - about 105 millimeters.
After we have made the markings and decided on the fragment of the door leaf that will be removed, take a drill and make 5-7 holes in the marked corners in increments of 3-5 mm. Next, we cut it all out, using a hacksaw, and also control so that the lines are strictly straight.

Next, we take out the sawn fragment, insert it along the contour of the future binding, between cardboard sheathing panels or plywood, and lubricate the wooden slats with wood glue. If, when installing the slats, the cardboard ribs located between the sheathing get in the way, it is recommended to break them out to the required depth using pliers. It will take a couple of hours for the glue to dry. However, you should not wait for the glue to dry; secure all the slats around the perimeter with small nails 10-15 mm long, recessing their heads into the sheathing.

Now your interior door is manufactured and installed. You have learned how to choose the right material for this product and know what tools are needed. After this, you can take on more complex tasks. You can get information from our next articles!

Interior doors have an important place in any home. They give a feeling of security, block foreign odors from entering the room, and hide everything in it from prying eyes.

Interior doors are an integral part of the apartment, as they isolate rooms and give the owner a sense of security.

If you wish, you can try to make interior ones.

How doors open

According to the method of opening, all doors are divided into the following types:

• swing;
• swinging (pendulum);
• sliding (compartment);
• folding (accordion);
• stables

The most common types of doors are swing doors. They are single-leaf and double-leaf. In the direction of opening they are left and right. These doors have one drawback: they require a certain space to open.

Pendulum doors are a type of swing doors. They just open in both directions. In an ordinary city apartment they are extremely rare. Such structures are usually installed in the subway, in shops, and in public spaces. Such doors can be made of aluminum, plastic, glass.

Sliding doors open and close by sliding the door on rollers along specially installed rails. They move inside the wall or along its surface. This is an ideal door option for small apartments.

Folding doors are assembled from several small panels 10-15 cm wide. When the door is opened, these panels fold like accordion bellows to the edge of one of the openings. In some cases, they are retracted inside the wall. The panels themselves are either solid or glazed. Stained glass in doors looks very beautiful, but this beauty is quite expensive.

Stable doors are practically not used in our country. They consist of separate halves, which can each open independently.

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What are doors made of?

MDF and chipboard are mainly used for the manufacture of interior doors.

Previously, door structures were made only from solid wood. Now wood is being replaced with plastic, aluminum, MDF, and other materials that are cheaper than wood. The most suitable natural woods are beech, maple, oak, and mahogany. The service life of the products is several decades.

Often, interior door structures are made from combined materials such as MDF and chipboard. If the canvas is covered with natural veneer, then it is very difficult to distinguish such a product from doors made of natural wood. Doors often have inserts made of various types of glass. They decorate the product and transmit light. Glass is used in a variety of color shades. They come in matte finish and with patterns. It is better to use tempered glass for inserts. If they break, they form small pieces that cannot cause harm to human health.

Any door uses metal in the form of handles, hinges and other elements. Loops are universal and detachable. The latter have the advantage that the canvas can be very easily and quickly removed from them. To do this, just lift it up.

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Preparation for making doors

Making paneled interior doors is not a task for beginners. But other doors can be made at home. For manufacturing you need to prepare materials and tools:

• hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• chisel;
• emery cloth;
• ruler;
• square;
• pencil;
• miter box;
• boards or bars about 50 mm thick;
• glue;
• self-tapping screws;
• plane;
• construction hair dryer;
• putty knife;
• brushes, roller;
• finishing materials (paint, veneer, decorative film);
• accessories.

The cheapest door is considered to be one that was remade independently from an old door that has served its time. This is done like this:

1. You need to remove the door that will be remodeled from its hinges, lay it on a workbench or table, and remove all the fittings.
2. Perform markup.
3. If necessary, cut off excess.
4. Sand the canvas and finish with paint or varnish.
5. Install fittings.
6. Hang the canvas in place.

If you hate throwing away your old door, then you can repair and paint it.

This is the easiest way to work. For more complex options, you will need good wood glue. You can make very high-quality glue yourself from bone glue granules, sold in hardware stores. These granules need to be filled with a small amount of cold water at the rate of 100 g of glue per 150 g of water. Leave for 10-12 hours.

During this time, the glue will swell to a jelly-like thick mass. It needs to be boiled in a water bath. For this operation you will need an empty can, a piece of wire about 2 mm thick and a jar or container slightly larger than a tin can. The wire is wrapped around the neck of the glue can in such a way that a kind of ears are formed, with which the can will rest on the edges of the container. Pour water into a container and place it on the fire. A small jar is placed in a large one. After the water boils in a large container, it is necessary to mix the glue being prepared. In 10 minutes it will be ready.

You can check the readiness of self-welded glue in this way: dip a wooden stick into the glue and lift it. The glue should flow from it in an even stream. If you blow on the glue, a thin film should appear on its surface. You can add 10% linseed oil to the finished glue. This will give the adhesive mass water resistance. Flaxseed oil can be replaced with natural drying oil.

Often, when redoing old door panels, it is necessary to remove a layer of old paint from their surface. This can be done using a regular household iron. You can use a hair dryer or a blowtorch. The paint is heated in a separate area and removed with a spatula. After all paint has been removed, the surface must be sanded.

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How to glue veneer to a door leaf

Scheme for gluing veneer onto the canvas: a-grinding the second strip of veneer; b-cutting edges, c-removing cuts.

To cover a door with natural veneer, you will definitely need a good iron. Veneer may have an adhesive composition, or may be without glue. The adhesive composition heats up and comes into working condition at a temperature of about 60°. If there is no adhesive layer, you need to apply a homemade layer of hot glue, let it sit for about 10 minutes and apply it to the desired place. After this, you need to place a load in the form of a bag filled with sand on the veneer section. Excess veneer at the edges is trimmed with a sharp knife and sanded with sandpaper. After pasting, the door is dried for at least 2 hours. After this, you can start treating it with varnish.

When applying varnish, the door should be in a horizontal position so that drops of varnish do not accumulate and form streaks.

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Door installation

To install new doors you will need the following tools:

• hacksaw for metal;
• level;
• chisel;
• drill;
• miter box;
• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• polyurethane foam;
• square;
• screws 5x80;
• wedges;
• finishing nails.

Installation takes place in several stages:

1. Box assembly.
2. Installation of canopies.
3. Box installation.
4. Hanging the door leaf.

When assembling the box, all its components must be carefully laid out in the required order on the floor. Connect both posts to the top crossbar with self-tapping screws. Then the awnings are installed. The assembled frame is inserted into the doorway, leveled vertically and horizontally using a level, then secured in the opening with wedges. The bottom edge of the vertical posts should touch the flooring.

A vertical stand with hinges attached to it is attached to the wall using screws or self-tapping screws. Then the door leaf is hung on it. Another stand is temporarily attached to the opposite wall and the gap between the canvas and the frame is checked. If everything is in order, the box is finally fixed in the opening. The gaps between the box and the opening are filled with polyurethane foam. The last step is to install the trim and fittings. The mounting holes on the surface of the side posts are closed with plastic plugs.

Making paneled doors is a complex task that requires special skills. But simpler doors can easily be made with your own hands by a person who knows how to hold a hammer and saw in his hands. It’s unlikely that a work of art will work out, but a good quality product will.

When making doors yourself, the first thing you do is measure the doorway: you need to make a door frame. In most cases, it has the shape of the letter “P”: two vertical posts are installed and one horizontal one is installed at the top - the lintel or crossbar.

The strip, which is attached below, is rarely used today, but there are special-purpose rooms in which a threshold is required. For example, in the steam room of a Russian bath. A threshold is needed here to prevent steam from escaping.

Having previously assembled the door frame on the floor, you can decide on the dimensions of the future door: they should be a couple of centimeters smaller than the frame you made. After you make the door leaf, cut in the hinges. Doors made of wood are heavy, and it is very difficult to carry them and try on the hinges. Therefore, it is more convenient to do everything on the floor. Mark the fastenings for the hinges, make a recess to the required depth, install them on the jamb and on the door leaf.

Then you install the box in the opening, secure it, and only then hang the doors. Here's how the process works in general terms. Now let’s learn more about how to make doors with your own hands.

Making a door frame

According to the rules, the door frame pillars must be hidden in the floor and rest on the joists. But today, wooden floors are not made everywhere in our country, and therefore more often they are simply rested on the finished floor. But by the time the door is installed, the floor must be ready, only the baseboards have not been nailed down.

We assume that the floor and doorway are ready. Decide what type of box you will install: “U”-shaped or with a lower jumper. Draw a diagram, measure the opening, and plot the measurement results on the image.

For brick, concrete or other similar walls, the dimensions of the box should be a couple of centimeters smaller than the opening: a gap is needed for mounting elements and foam. For walls made of timber or logs, they generally make a frame or casing - bars installed around the perimeter with a small gap, which will compensate for the shrinkage of the building, and at the same time fasten the logs or beams that have become loose after cutting out the opening. This, of course, requires additional materials and work, but this is the only way to guarantee that the doors will not jam.

As a result of measurements, the height of the two side bars - racks - may differ slightly. It's not scary. It is important that they are vertical, and the horizontal top bar - the lintel - is strictly horizontal.

The door frame is made from one board with a molded groove or a composite one - from several boards glued together. The width of the groove should match the thickness of the door leaf or be a couple of millimeters larger.

If you have a woodworking machine on your farm, you do everything yourself. No - you buy it in a carpentry shop, hardware store, etc. You will need two strips for the side posts and one or two (depending on the type of box) for the horizontal jumpers.

The bars from which the jambs are made can be simple, or they can have a shaped (profile) front part. You can install a rubber or silicone seal at the end of the protrusion against which the door leaf rests. To do this, make a shallow cut into it using a special roller (or a regular screwdriver) and install an elastic band. These seals are much more effective and durable than foam rubber ones, they come in different colors and shapes, and are sold in hardware stores.

The planks are polished on three sides to perfection. The fourth will be leaning against the wall; it does not need to be processed.

Assembly order

Saw off the top jumper to the required width. Now you need to make grooves in it into which the racks will fit. To do this, you need to remove the protrusion to the width of the block. It sounds confusing, but if you look at the photo, everything will become clearer.

Measure the width of the counter, mark this distance on the ceiling, and draw a straight line. Make a cut to the depth of the tenon (with a hand saw). Now use chisels to remove excess. Having smoothed it with sandpaper, make two holes for the screws: this is how they will be fastened to the posts.

Do the same on the other side. Just don’t start sawing without measuring the second post: the joinery may differ by a couple of millimeters, and this can lead to the appearance of cracks. First you measure, then you mark, and only then you cut and work with a chisel.

If the structure has a threshold, it is processed in exactly the same way.

Now all that remains is to adjust the height of the side strips. From the total height of the doorway, subtract the thickness of the transverse strips (upper and, if any, lower) and the distance for the mounting foam (1-2 cm). Get the height of the racks. You saw them off and assemble the whole structure together. The door frame was assembled with your own hands. Let's start making the door leaf.

Wooden doors to a bathhouse or country house

Doors made of wood can have a complex design. Beginners should not immediately take on such work: they need to learn from simple things. Doors to a bathhouse, a summer house, etc. are ideal in this regard. They rarely come in complex designs. The main thing here is reliability and functionality. Attractiveness is also important, but even simple DIY steam room doors are a result you can be proud of. When well processed, they look very decent: the material is beautiful, it does not need any decoration. It is important to properly process and varnish.

Materials

Good commercial wood is used for the manufacture of joinery, without knots or with a minimum number of them. If there are knots, they should not be black. You also need dry wood with a moisture content of no more than 12-15%. Ideally, take chamber-drying boards - they will definitely not be damaged. Also look at their geometry: “propellers” and “waves” do not suit us. The boards must be level.

Thickness - from 25 mm to 50 mm. Depending on the purpose and design of the door. Before use, their surface is brought to a perfectly smooth state - with grinding machines or manually using sandpaper, attached for convenience to a small block.

A simple option made from planed boards

The simplest wooden interior door can be made from one row of boards 30-40 mm thick, fastened together with transverse strips. Planed and sanded boards are stacked close to one another. There should be no gaps, the match is perfect.

The dimensions of the door leaf should be 4 mm smaller in width and length of the manufactured door frame. Only in this case will it be possible to close them without problems.

To avoid drafts, the boards can be made with profiled edges: make a tenon half the thickness or saw the edges at 45 o. This option is more labor-intensive, but the room will be warm.

According to the rules, grooves are cut out in the boards for transverse strips - dowels. The dowels are driven into this groove, fastening the boards together. Having a special wood saw - a reward - is easy to do:

• Make two cuts at 45 o. To prevent the saw from slipping, the angle was kept even; a block with the same angle was nailed to the edge. By sliding the saw along it, you will make an even cut at the desired angle.
• On the other side, at a distance of 30 mm, make a similar cut in the other direction.
• Use a chisel to select wood between them. The result is a trapezoidal groove into which a key of the same format is driven. For greater reliability, you can use wood glue. It is better not to use PVA glue. Moreover, for the doors to the steam room: it will not withstand such temperatures. For steam rooms and wet rooms, glue is chosen with a high moisture resistance class (from D3 and above).

As a result, you will get doors to the steam room, assembled with your own hands, without nails.

You can assemble a similar door easier: by screwing the transverse and oblique strips 25-30 mm thick onto self-tapping screws. If you are installing it in a steam room, it is advisable to recess the caps into the wood, or screw them in from the side of the washing and changing rooms. So, when you touch the door, you will not get burned by the heated metal.

Entrance door made of two rows of boards

If the doors are made from two rows of boards, and insulation is laid between them, you will get a good entrance door or an excellent heat-saving option for a steam room. But then you will need a good one in the steam room - with such a device, air does not pass through the doors.

The first row is assembled in exactly the same way as in the previous version: the boards are tightly fitted to one another and fastened with transverse strips.

Another row will be laid on top, and the gap can be filled with heat insulation. It is selected depending on the installation location: for the front door it is important that if moisture gets in, the insulation does not lose its properties and is not afraid of freezing. A good option is polystyrene foam; polystyrene foam is cheaper. Mineral wool is not suitable - they are afraid of moisture, unless they are protected with a layer of moisture insulation. Then they will keep warm well.

Having laid the heat insulator, it is pressed with a second layer of boards, which are attached to the transverse planks with self-tapping screws. If you have a door without nails on one side, you can turn this side towards the street: this way you won’t have to worry about unsightly dark streaks coming from the caps during use.

The final stage of manufacturing a wooden front door is finishing around the perimeter. In principle, it was possible to fill (screw with self-tapping screws) slats onto the first layer. This is a more correct option. But you can, having assembled both layers, attach thin - 5-7 mm - strips around the perimeter from the ends, covering the insides.

The final stage is finishing the doorway. This is the first thing - if the width of the door frame is not enough, and which give a finished look.

See the video for one of the options for such a door.

Plywood doors

You can make good interior doors with your own hands from blocks and plywood. There may be several options.

Single layer

This design is suitable for installation in some utility room where sound and heat insulation is not important. This is a frame made of wooden blocks with several cross bars, onto which a plywood sheet of suitable size is stuffed.

Plywood can be any kind, but 1-2 grades are required for good appearance. It does not contain (class 1) or almost no (class 2) knots on the front surface. This material comes in different thicknesses: from 3 mm to 21 mm. There is moisture-resistant plywood - it can be used in wet rooms, there is laminated - in this case there is no need for finishing: it is covered with PVC film and has a look similar to wood.

When choosing plywood for residential premises or baths, you need to pay attention not to safety: in its manufacture, glue is used that contains formaldehyde. The content of formaldehyde is controlled, depending on its quantity and intensity of its release into the atmosphere, and an emission class is assigned: from 0 (almost none) to 5. Plywood with emission class 0 and 1 is allowed even for the manufacture of children's furniture. Therefore, it is also suitable for doors to the bathhouse.

Multilayer

The design is similar, only there can be two or three layers. Heat/sound insulation can be laid between them. As a result, similar doors can be installed in a steam room. You will only need to take moisture-resistant plywood. It can then be tinted with stain and covered with heat-resistant varnish (if you want, of course) or soaked in drying oil or wax.

You can fasten plywood using small nails or self-tapping screws. You will have to drill holes for the screws: then you will be guaranteed that the top layer will not be damaged.

Results

You can make wooden or plywood doors with your own hands. It is important to choose a suitable design, have some patience and time, as well as a certain amount of materials.

Despite the fact that today doors are made from a wide variety of modern materials, wood products still remain the most in demand. Wooden doors are installed between rooms, at the entrance to a house or outbuildings, and they are also installed in all functional rooms of the bathhouse. The popularity of wooden doors remains unchanged due to the warmth of the material and its environmental friendliness, as well as the amazing natural beauty of textured patterns.

To figure out how to make a door from boards with your own hands, you need to decide where it will be installed. The fact is that all wooden doors, from the simplest to the most elite examples, are made of boards, but the material can have different quality and processing. There are also significant differences in wood species.

In addition, door leaves are divided into types according to their design, and in order to decide which one is more suitable for a particular case, you need to find out what they are.

Types of doors by design

Wooden doors can have several types of structures - paneled and solid, panel (hollow and solid) and frame.

Massive doors

Massive doors are made from thick tongue-and-groove or planed boards, joined together in one plane and thus forming a flat surface. The resulting shield should have horizontal or inclined jumpers, which will make the structure more rigid.

For solid doors, wood of different species and qualities is used, depending on where they will be installed. For example, if a massive entrance door is being made, then you need to choose moderately dried, dense, high-quality wood from expensive species such as oak, cedar, larch and others. They have a beautiful noble textured pattern and dense structure. With appropriate treatment, such a door will last a long time without deformation or damage by insects dangerous to wood.

A massive door can have a different design - either a simple one, which is suitable for installation, say, in a steam room in a bathhouse, or a complex one, with a relief design, suitable for entering a house or apartment.

For bath doors, less expensive wood can be used, such as pine, spruce, linden and others. The only thing that needs to be taken into account when making a door structure for wet rooms is its careful treatment with water-repellent agents.

Massive doors may have their own design features, but one thing remains unchanged - the door leaf, which should always be made of natural wood.

Paneled door

Paneled wooden doors are also made from boards or timber, but the glued version is more often used, which is made from individual wooden parts - lamellas. They are glued together to create thick boards or beams.

Glued laminated timber serves as a rigid frame for the canvas - vertical and transverse elements, as well as mullions, are made from it. Previously, individual elements were fastened together with the help of spikes; today, dowels are more often used for this. When making a door, you need to take into account the fact that the more crossbars are provided in the door leaf, the stronger it will be. The timber is used to form unique frames into which panel panels are installed, made from thinner boards, MDF covered with natural veneer, or plastic imitating the textured pattern of wood. The panel usually has a thickness of ⅓ of the thickness of laminated veneer lumber. The panels are fixed in the frames using veneered or natural glazing bead, which adds aesthetics to the appearance of the paneled door, smoothing out the sharp edges of the frame.

Paneled doors can have a very diverse design and will decorate any apartment. As can be seen from the design diagram, the main part of the door leaf is small in thickness, so they are most often installed in openings between rooms.

The paneled structure is made of durable materials that are not inferior in their durability to solid wood. Sometimes this type of door has an even higher cost than solid wood. Pricing is based on what type of wood the boards and beams are made of, and what kind of veneer the material for the paneled door is covered with.

It should be noted that paneled canvases are often made entirely of natural wood, only made according to a similar design scheme.

Panel doors

Panel doors can be called a budget option, since their price is much lower than the two types mentioned above. They are made from cheaper material - low-quality wood and fiberboard, lined with veneer or laminate. High-quality panel structures have a completely aesthetic appearance, and if their surface is also lined with natural veneer, then sometimes they are very similar to massive doors.

Panel doors can be solid, hollow or small hollow. They differ in that in some the internal space is completely filled with unedged timber, fastened together, the second consists only of strapping and outer cladding, and the third has partial filling.

A typical hollow panel door consists of two transverse ones - upper and lower, as well as side beams, which are sheathed with fiberboard, clapboard or other materials. Sometimes horizontal and vertical cross members are installed inside the structure, as they give the structure additional rigidity. Such a door can already be called a frame door.

Fine-hollow door leaf structures have different fillings of the internal space, and a variety of materials can be used for filling - this can be plywood, MDF boards, cardboard, shavings or foam plastic.

Solid panel doors are those whose filling is a kind of shield made of unedged or edged timber tightly fastened together.

Schemes of panel structures of different occupancy are presented in the figures:

A– solid structure;

B– small void filling;

IN– filling voids with veneer;

G And D– small-hollow filling with pieces of plywood or MDF;

E– filling with chips;

AND– filling with paper or cardboard honeycombs;

Z- a panel partially filled with solid bars with space provided for installing glass or plywood sheets.

AND– filling part of the canvas with veneer;

TO And L– filling with plywood or wood-fiber elements;

M– filling with paper or cardboard honeycombs.

The panel door frame is lined with various materials on both sides - plastic (laminate, melamine), fiberboards, plywood or veneer.

When facing the panels with high-quality plywood with a beautiful textured pattern, they can be additionally decorated with profiled overlays.

• To obtain a high-quality panel door, the structure is faced with glued linden or alder plywood, which is mounted in one or two layers, each of which is 2÷3 mm. The material, made from alder and linden, does not cause deformation, which creates a reliable basis for

Finishing plywood made of valuable wood is fixed on top of the glued layer. The direction of the fibers of the decorative plywood layer should be perpendicular to the glued material.

Often, instead of plywood, natural veneer made from expensive wood species is attached to the glued layer. Its layers, and there can be 3 or 5 of them, are also laid perpendicular to each other.

• Sometimes a solid board made of glued timber is immediately decorated with veneer; it is applied in 5–10 layers to create a total facing layer of 2–4 mm.

The end sides of the shield must be neat and solid, therefore, if the door is made without a frame, then smooth, well-processed bars are used for them, which in color and texture will match the finish of the remaining planes.

The end bars are fastened to the shield with dowels and glue.

This type of door, depending on the finish, can be used for a bathroom or utility room, as well as in quality. However, it should be noted that panel doors have absolutely no protection, so they are not suitable for the role of entrance doors. Most often they are used for this only as a temporary option.

Now that the designs of all types of doors are known, you can decide which one is suitable for a particular case, and then move on to preparatory work and manufacturing.

Tools for making doors

In order to make any model of a wooden door, you will definitely need high-quality tools and a stable, large table-workbench on which all the elements will be assembled into a single piece.

The tools you need to prepare are:

• Manual milling machine - this device will help make the door leaf smooth, cut out any holes and grooves, straighten the right angles of the structure, process the glazing bead and much more. If your goal is to make a professional-looking door, then you can’t do without this tool.

• Planer for leveling the end sides of the door.
• Clamps for tightening glued fabric.
• Hacksaw.
• Bow and hand saw.
• Chisels of different sizes.
• Rubber and regular hammer.
• Building level.
• Ruler, tape measure, folding meter and pencil.
• Sandpaper and sanding machine.
• Screwdriver.

Necessary materials

To make doors you will need the following materials:

• Wood - its grade, quantity and dimensions are selected for each door separately. The choice of this material will be discussed below.
• Wood glue.
• Self-tapping screws of different lengths.

In addition, for each type of door you will need to prepare specific materials, which will be mentioned in the sections on the manufacture of certain door panels.

Selection of lumber

It is imperative to know how to choose the right blanks for the door leaf, otherwise the finished door may become deformed, and it will no longer be possible to correct this defect.

The main criteria when choosing wood are:

• The type of wood is chosen according to desire and financial capabilities.
• For doors, so-called industrial wood is purchased, since it has a small number of knots, and if there are any, they are small in size and light in color.
• In order for the wood to “behave” well during processing and during the period of operation of the doors, upon purchase the material must have a residual moisture content of 12÷15%. It is recommended to choose material dried in a special drying chamber. Wood treated in this way will not deform or dry out, since the chamber creates an optimal temperature effect on its fibers.
• When buying boards, you must check them for evenness. To do this, they should be laid on a flat surface and tried to be connected to each other using tongue-and-groove locks. The boards should not be bent or bent.
• The thickness of the door boards can be 25÷50 mm, depending on where it will be installed - at the entrance or between rooms.
• Before starting work, it is recommended to go over all surfaces of the boards with a sanding machine with fine-grained sandpaper. If this device is not available, then you can make a grinding device yourself from an ordinary wooden block, attaching sandpaper to it.

Making a solid door

Whatever model of solid board door is chosen, the basis for it will be a board panel that must be assembled correctly. Otherwise, the wood may “sink”, and such a structure will be impossible to operate.

A solid board door is made for installation between rooms or for installation at the entrance to an apartment, house and outbuildings. Naturally, the appearance of the product will differ in different situations.

• For a bathhouse, the simplest design is usually used, in which a shield assembled from boards is fastened with transverse and diagonal elements.

In this drawing you can see different options for fastenings and strappings:

General view of the door;

I – door with a Z-shaped frame;

II – X-shaped harness;

III – double Z-shaped harness;

IV – double X-shaped harness;

V – triple harness.

To enter a house or for installation in residential premises, doors should have a more aesthetic appearance. Therefore, the assembled shield is processed in a special way to achieve its ideal evenness and smoothness. Next, markings of the selected relief pattern are applied to the canvas, and then the relief is cut out using a router.

Illustration
	For the manufacture of the shield, tongue-and-groove boards are taken, either with a tongue-and-groove fastening or without tongue-and-groove boards. The thickness of the boards must be at least 25 mm, but if a door is being made for the entrance to an apartment or house, then a board even 40–60 mm thick is taken. Doors for outbuildings or bathhouses are most often made from non-grooved boards using one of the strappings shown above. For doors installed in residential premises, a high-quality thick tongue-and-groove board is used.
	Next, the prepared boards are marked and sawn into the required sections.
	The next step is to assemble the boards into a shield. In this case, you need to lay them in such a way that the pattern of the annual rings is directed in one direction. If tongue-and-groove boards are used for manufacturing, then the tenon is carefully cut off from the outermost element of the shield, and the end is carefully processed. When assembling a panel, tongue and groove boards are assembled using both a tongue-and-groove joint and wood glue. Non-grooved - simply glued together.
	The work should be carried out on a large work table - a workbench, where it is possible to place the entire door leaf and lay it perfectly flat.
	The assembled and glued panel of the canvas is pressed in several places with clamps and left to dry.
	The finished, dried board is processed with a milling cutter until it is perfectly smooth. In this case, the joints between the boards become almost invisible.
	It should be noted that, if necessary, a massive door is assembled from two or even three layers of boards, each of which is glued perpendicular to the previous one, and the entire resulting structure is clamped with clamps. The result is a fairly heavy, powerful shield with a thickness suitable for installation at the entrance to a house or apartment. Especially often, a door is made in this way, on which some kind of relief design will later be milled or cut out.
	Next, you need to fasten the shield with one of the types of strapping. The simplest of them are two or three crossbars installed in the upper, middle and lower parts of the canvas. In this case, parts are prepared whose length will be equal to the width of the manufactured shield. Their possible shapes and sizes are shown in the figure on the left. This configuration must be maintained so that the crossbar can easily fit into the groove that will be cut for it in the door leaf.
	Then markings are made on the door leaf where the grooves for the crossbars will be cut. Ready-made transverse elements are applied to them and outlined with a simple pencil. In addition, you immediately need to determine and mark the depth to which the groove will be selected in the shield boards. The recess can be ⅓ or ½ the thickness of the board.
	Using the marks made on the shield, transverse grooves of the desired shape and size are cut with a milling cutter. The cutter is able to make their surfaces perfectly smooth, so the crossbars will fit into their “sockets” quite easily, but very tightly. Additionally, the groove is coated with wood glue. You can cut the groove manually - first, cuts are made at the desired angle, and then the wood is selected with a chisel.
	When the grooves are prepared, the crossbars are inserted into them from one side and then gradually pushed inward using a rubber hammer or mallet.
	When assembled, the canvas, reinforced with crossbars, will look something like this.
	If you plan to decorate the finished shield with any relief design, then its outline should first be drawn on the surface with a pencil using a template. After this, cutters of the desired configuration are alternately installed on the hand router, and the selected pattern is cut out without haste.
	The finished canvas should be treated with antiseptic agents. If the door is planned to be installed at the entrance of the house and, therefore, will be exposed to external factors, then in addition to antiseptic, water-repellent compounds must also be used. When making a door to enter an apartment, it is recommended to coat the wood with fire retardants.
	If you want to change the color of the canvas, make the door more “noble” or artificially “age” it, then you can use staining technology for this. Wood is covered with stain in one or several layers, achieving the desired darkening of the texture. After the composition has dried, the doors can be coated with several layers of varnish.
	Markings are made on the finished leaf and door frame to install the selected model of hinged hinges. Then the loops are mounted in the marked places.
	The next step is to mark the location of the lock on the door leaf and on the door frame, after which it is cut into the structure and the handle is installed. The last step is to hang the door in the doorway and make a fine finishing adjustment if necessary.

Manufacturing of a panel door

Making a panel door yourself is not difficult. The main thing is to have all the materials at hand, a good-quality tool, maintain all dimensions, maintain even edges and straight corners. The amount of work will depend on the design of the selected door option. For example, for a solid panel door, just like for one made from a solid board, it is necessary to make a shield, only it can consist of low-quality wood and processing. If you plan to make a finely filled canvas, then the same bars are used, but they are fastened not into a continuous surface, but with gaps.

Based on the description of the design, it can be made in three ways:

• The first is that a frame frame (tiring) of the required size is first assembled, and then its internal space is filled completely or partially, that is, a solid or finely filled shield is created inside the frame.
• The shield can be made separately, and then it needs to be fixed into the frame, and then sheathed with finishing material.
• The third option is performed in the reverse order, that is, first the shield is made, and then it is sheathed with a frame and cladding.

Each method has its pros and cons, and the master chooses which one to choose independently. Below, as an example, we will consider the first option for making a door.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	So, first, the frame (tiring) of the structure is made, which will determine the size of the canvas. For this, it is necessary to prepare a beam with a cross-section of approximately 30×120 mm, which is cut to the size of the future canvas (length and width).
	Having prepared the timber, you need to select the connection that will be used at the corners. There are several types of connections, but the simplest is the one called “half-tree”. The grooves are first marked on the edges of the prepared timber, which must be done very accurately, and then easily selected using a regular hand hacksaw and chisel. The depth of the groove should be equal to half the thickness of the timber. The grooves are coated with glue and connected at the corners, and they need to be checked using a construction angle, since the beams must be perfectly perpendicular. When connecting the timber, the frame should lie on a hard, flat surface, and after connecting the corners, it is left to dry on the same table without moving it.
	After the glue has dried on the joints, they must be fastened with dowels, for which through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are drilled. Then dowels treated with glue are carefully driven into them.
	One side of the frame must be immediately lined with one of the selected materials after fastening and drying the frame - it can be plywood, as described above, but more often, for reasons of economy, fiberboard is chosen. A sheet of material cut to the required size is laid on a flat table, then the frame is laid on it and its location is marked on the facing material. After this, the frame is removed, and wood glue is thickly applied to the marked strips. The frame is then returned to its place and pressed firmly against the facing material. In this position under pressure, the entire structure should dry well. It should be noted that very often, for the rigidity of the frame structure, one or two cross members are mounted between its side bars
	Next, the internal space of the frame is filled with one of the selected filler materials - this can be timber, pieces of MDF or other woodworking waste mentioned above, or low-quality wood. This is how, in principle, all panel structures are made, and they differ only in the type of filling. All filling elements are glued together and also glued to the bottom sheet of facing material and the frame bars. Before covering the entire structure with cladding, you need to let the glue dry thoroughly.
	This diagram shows a frame-panel structure, and it clearly shows the inserts, which are usually installed in hollow and small-hollow versions. These elements are designed for rigid insertion of a lock or door handle.
	While the glue dries, you need to prepare the material for lining the outside. To do this, the perimeter of the frame is measured and one or two sheets of finishing material are cut to these dimensions. If you plan to glue two sheets, then first glue a regular fiberboard, and on top of it - a laminated sheet or veneered plywood. It is advisable to send the door leaf under a press, which you can build yourself, for example, by covering the leaf with plastic film and then laying gypsum boards on top of it.
	If desired, instead of a laminated sheet for cladding, you can use slats made of natural wood, but they will have to be screwed to the frame, drilling holes “under the countersunk” to recess the heads of the screws. Subsequently, these holes are filled with a mixture of sawdust and wood glue. When it dries, the surface should be treated with sandpaper.
	Then, all corner parts and ends of the door leaf must be processed using a router - only then will the door look high-quality and neat. A lock or latch handle is cut into the finished door leaf, and the hinges are also secured. Finally, the door is hung in the door frame.

It should be noted that frame doors are made in the same way - their internal space is additionally reinforced with a frame made of timber or boards. But, before making a frame door, it is necessary to make accurate calculations and draw up a drawing.

Making a paneled door

Paneled doors have the most complex design, and its manufacture cannot be done without special carpentry tools and stable skills in working with them, since the elements require special processing.

Paneled doors consist of several parts, which can be made of solid boards or laminated veneer lumber and plywood. Naturally, they differ significantly in price. You can find many different models on sale, but for self-production in the absence of significant experience in carpentry, it is best to choose the simplest option.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first thing you need to do when you decide to make a paneled door is to draw up a drawing of the future structure and put on it the dimensions of each of the parts. This drawing shows a door with four panels: a) general view of the door; b) tenon joints of the upper, middle and lower crossbars: 1- racks; 2- upper cross member; 3-lock cross member; 4- lower cross member; 5- upper middle; 6 - lower middle; 7- upper panel; 8 - lower panel; 9 - key; 10 - groove.
	To make the frame you will need timber - it can be made from solid boards or laminated veneer lumber. The latter will be somewhat more difficult to work with, since due to the presence of glue in its structure, it has greater rigidity. The timber will be needed for the vertical elements, cross members and centerpiece. The beam must be processed with a router, making grooves on one of its sides. And sometimes they immediately make shaped cuts that will replace the glazing bead. If you plan to use a glazing bead, then the surfaces around the groove should be left smooth.
	Then, you need to work on the crossbars, cutting out connecting tenons on both sides and finishing all the edges with a router. At the ends of the crossbars, grooves are made for installing panels and mullions in them. The end side of the upper and lower crossbars, which will extend to the end of the door, remains smooth and solid.
	According to the size of the tenons on the crossbars, slots are made in the vertical beams for assembling the door. Before making them, the bars are carefully marked.
	To make panels that will be installed in the grooves of crossbars and beams, you will need plywood, board or chipboard. It should be noted that all panel parts or several of them can be replaced with glass. If glass is chosen, then you will also need glazing beads, which will additionally fix the glass panels in the grooves and become a relief frame for them.
	The panels can have an absolutely flat plane, and after installation in the cut-out grooves, they are framed with a figuratively cut glazing bead. In another case, the panels are processed around the perimeter with a milling cutter, with which you can achieve the desired relief configuration. If the second option is chosen, then for their manufacture, plywood or boards with a thickness greater than for flat panels are purchased - it can be 20÷25 mm. The edges of the panel are milled so that their thickness is 1–2 mm less than the grooves cut into the transverse and vertical beams, since it should fit into them freely.
	All prepared door elements are treated with antiseptic compounds and dried.
	Before assembly, you need to check all the elements again and, if necessary, make additional markings. All parts are assembled into a single piece on a table, in a horizontal position. All tenons, before being installed in the grooves, are coated with wood glue.
	The canvas is assembled in the following sequence: - In the grooves of one of the vertical beams, according to the markings, all the parts are glued - crossbars and panels. - Next, the mullions are installed, the spikes of which are also lubricated with glue. - Then, the remaining panels are mounted into the crossbars and mullions. - After this, the remaining vertical beam is glued.
	- The last to be glued are the framing beads. If necessary, a rubber hammer or wooden mallet is used to install tenons into the grooves. After this, the canvas is carefully tapped on all sides, and its corners are checked with a construction angle. Then, it is compressed with clamps until it dries.
	On the finished door leaf, markings are made for installing fittings - hinges and a lock or just a door handle. After this, the parts are installed on the canvas for fitting, but are not secured - they are mounted only after the final finishing of the surface.
	The final finishing of the door can be done with acrylic varnishes or water-based paints. If necessary, the surface of the door can be made darker, thereby emphasizing the beauty of the textured wood pattern. For this, a stain is used, which can be applied in one or several layers. The top of stained wood can be coated with colorless varnish or hot wax. When the coating dries, the fittings are installed.

The position of the loops is approximately as shown in this diagram. In addition, the figure shows the dimensions of the gaps that should be observed when installing the leaf in the door frame.

These parameters are, in principle, identical for installing any types of leaves in a door jamb.

In conclusion, it must be said that making a wooden door yourself, without experience in carpentry, is quite difficult. Moreover, it is almost impossible to do without special tools, which not everyone has in their home “arsenal”. Therefore, if you want the door to look perfect, then it is best to order it from a professional craftsman or buy a ready-made version.

Video: master class on making a paneled door from solid wood

But if you still decide to experiment or have a persistent desire to learn how to make carpentry products that are always in demand, then you must definitely purchase a high-quality tool, both manual and electric (including, of course, a router with a set of cutters) and learn how to work with it. Only after everything starts to work out successfully can you try to make individual parts. In any case, if you want to do this kind of work, then you need to try your hand.

Find out how to do it yourself from a new article on our portal.