Homemade sports spoiler made of metal. Making your own spoiler for a car

You are looking for an ordinary spoiler - a simple HTML page element that could open when you click on it, and close when you click on it. You found it!

1. A very simple JS+HTML spoiler (1 time per page)

If you need to embed code in an HTML page that does not use any JavaScript files, then simply copy this code anywhere on the required page:

function openSpoiler(elem) (
document.getElementById("spioler").style.display="block";
document.getElementById("but_spo").style.display="none";
}
function closeSpoiler(elem)
{
document.getElementById("spioler").style.display="none";
document.getElementById("but_spo").style.display="block";
}

If you have access to a *.js file that is connected to the required page, then copy the code above into it, without the tag at the beginning and without the tag at the end.

123

Insert the information you need instead of 123.
Instead of " Additional Information» You can use any expressions.

EXAMPLE:

she: won’t you be afraid to ride with me when I get my license?
him: no
She: Are you really not afraid?
him: yes
she: wow, at least you supported me.))) Otherwise everyone says that it will be scary to travel with me.
him: I'm just not afraid of death.

You can also modify this code if you want the spoiler to open on mouse hover:

123

EXAMPLE:

- Darling, I’m not feeling well. - Drink some poison, creature! - What the hell? Oo - Oh, I misspoke. Drink herbal teas.

2. CSS+HTML spoiler (many times per page)

Spoiler

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Nullam eu sodales tortor, posuere mattis nunc. Integer eget sapien ullamcorper diam mollis laoreet. Praesent dignissim id urna at malesuada. Etiam id nisl vitae ante vestibulum volutpat.


Etiam congue, neque a commodo iaculis, nisl massa varius felis, eget commodo eros mauris vitae felis. Pellentesque sed nisi bibendum, faucibus lectus id, varius metus. Vestibulum lacinia vehicula justo, ut molestie magna tincidunt nec. Suspendisse sit amet sagittis enim.

Contenido normal intercalado sin spoiler

Input(
display: none;
}
input + label (
display: block;
width: 200px;
margin: 0 auto;
padding: 5px 20px;
background: #e1a;
color: #fff;
text-align: center;
font-size: 24px;
border-radius: 8px;
cursor: pointer;
transition: all .6s;
}
input:checked + label (
color: #333;
background: #ccc;
}
input ~ .spoiler (
width: 90%;
height: 0;
overflow: hidden;
opacity: 0;
margin: 10px auto 0;
padding: 10px;
background: #eee;
border: 1px solid #ccc;
border-radius: 8px;
transition: all .6s;
}
input:checked + label + .spoiler(
height: auto;
opacity: 1;
padding: 10px;
}

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Nullam eu sodales tortor, posuere mattis nunc. Integer eget sapien ullamcorper diam mollis laoreet. Praesent dignissim id urna at malesuada. Etiam id nisl vitae ante vestibulum volutpat.

Etiam congue, neque a commodo iaculis, nisl massa varius felis, eget commodo eros mauris vitae felis. Pellentesque sed nisi bibendum, faucibus lectus id, varius metus. Vestibulum lacinia vehicula justo, ut molestie magna tincidunt nec. Suspendisse sit amet sagittis enim.

Spoiler 1

Una forma de esconder cierta información hasta que el usuario hace clic para visualizarla. Una forma de esconder cierta información hasta que el usuario hace clic para visualizarla.

Spoiler 2

3. Spoiler JS (jQuery)+HTML (many times per page)

It is important to respect the number of header and container elements. Can be used nested while respecting HTML hierarchy

let sp_content=$(".sp_content"),sp_title=$(".sp_title");
sp_content.hide();
sp_title.on("click",function())(
let inx=$(".sp_title").index(this);
$(sp_content).slideToggle(100)
})

.sp_title(background:#ff002a;color:#fff;padding:7px 6px;margin-top:4px;-webkit-border-radius:3px;border-radius:3px;cursor:pointer)
.sp_content(background:#fff;color:#000;padding:6px 4px 4px 4px;-webkit-border-radius:3px;border-radius:3px;box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px #ccc)

Spoiler title

Spoiler content

Spoiler title 1

Spoiler content 1

Spoiler title 2

Spoiler content 2

4. Spoiler JS (jQuery)+HTML v2 (many times per page)

It is important to respect the number of header and container elements. Can be used nested while respecting HTML hierarchy
The jQuery library must also be added to the page:

Let sp_content2=$(".sp_content2"),sp_title2=$(".sp_title2");
sp_content2.hide();
sp_title2.on("click",function())(
let inx=$(".sp_title2").index(this);
if($(sp_content2).css("display")==="none")(
$(sp_content2).slideUp(100);
$(sp_content2).slideDown(100);
)else(
$(sp_content2).slideUp(100);
}
})

.sp_title2(background:#0086ff;color:#fff;padding:7px 6px;margin-top:4px;-webkit-border-radius:3px;border-radius:3px;cursor:pointer)
.sp_content2(background:#fff;color:#000;padding:6px 4px 4px 4px;-webkit-border-radius:3px;border-radius:3px;box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1px #ccc)

Spoiler title

Spoiler content

Spoiler title 1

Spoiler content 1

Spoiler title 2

Spoiler content 2

5. Spoiler JS (jQuery)+HTML. Buttons (many times per page)

It is important to respect the number of header and container elements. Can be used nested while respecting HTML hierarchy
The jQuery library must also be added to the page:

Spoiler 1Spoiler 2Spoiler 3


Spoiler 1 Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipisicing elit. Adipisci doloremque, exercitationem totam nostrum accusantium illo quibusdam sunt fugit a consectetur libero ea minima velit eaque iure ut odit eum suscipit!


Spoiler 2 Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipisicing elit. Ad aut suscipit distinctio debitis ea voluptates alias delectus quia voluptas vitae, nisi atque laudantium repudiandae deleniti, natus fugiat, quo, esse rem.


Spoiler 3 Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipisicing elit. Voluptates, aperiam, itaque. Possimus, quas perspiciatis, illum assumenda odit amet obcaecati corporis, dolores aperiam a illo repellendus sit, commodi repellat quam suscipit?

Body (
font: 16px/1.5em "Segoe UI", Arial, sans-serif;
background: #bfb6a0;
color: #fff;
width: 60%;
margin: 20px auto;
}
.spoiler-link (
display: inline-block;
text-decoration: none;
color: #fff;
background: #b63333;
padding: 10px 25px;
border-radius: 3px;
text-shadow: 0 1px 0 #8c1111;
border-bottom: 1px solid #8c1111;
-webkit-transition: all 0.6s ease;
transition: all 0.6s ease;
}
.spoiler-link:hover (
background: #8c1111;
}
.spoiler-link + .spoiler-link (
margin-left: 5px;
}
.spoiler-link--active (
background: #4f9c3d;
border-color: #2d751c;
text-shadow: 0 1px 0 #2d751c;
}
.spoiler-link--active:hover (
background: #2d751c;
}
.spoiler(
background: #fff;
color: #907c6b;
padding: 25px;
margin-top: 25px;
border-radius: 3px;
border-bottom: 1px solid #999;
}
.spoiler__title(
margin-top: 0;
font-weight: 200;
color: #b63333;
}

$(function())(
$(".spoiler").hide();
$(".spoiler-link").on("click", function(e) (
var idSpoiler = $(this).attr("href"),
classSelect = "spoiler-link--active";
$(this).toggleClass(classSelect);
$(idSpoiler).slideToggle(200);
e.preventDefault();
});
});

It all started with a trip to the auto store; I came in one day and saw an assortment of spoilers of various shapes, made of fiberglass and at reasonable prices (1400-2000 rubles), and, naturally, I liked one. I leave a deposit, go out, try it on in the car... bad luck, the length of the spoiler turned out to be 10 cm less than desired. It’s a shame, but I want to, and then different thoughts begin to creep in. One was like this - take this spoiler, cut it, make an insert of 10 cm, minimum time investment, but another 200 rubles are added to the cost of the spoiler, in the end we get 2200 (the spoiler we liked cost 2000 rubles) plus painting. The second thought is to do it completely yourself, while offhand we get the cost in the range of 700-1000 rubles. plus the shape of the spoiler can be made absolutely to your liking. Since my work schedule allows me to calmly go about my business and there are obvious savings, I decided to take on this business.

Unfortunately, my first step was taken in the direction of garbage containers, and all because after reading that you can take polyurethane foam sealant and squeeze a mold out of it, I went to the store. I read on the can that the volume of blown foam is about 20 liters, and after estimating how much I would need for the spoiler, I took one can...

Lay newspapers on the floor and let’s blow out the foam sealant into the blank. It turned out that what is written there - “foam yield is 20 liters” in practice is only 5 :(. I also had to buy a couple of large ones, on which 40 liters are written. I blew it as it is written in the attached instructions, the best result is a maximum of 10 liters. And the largest the drawback is that the more you heat the balloon, the larger the pores in the frozen mass become, up to 5 cm. Having spent 5 balloons, I gave up on this matter and concluded that if you need to sculpt a little, then the method is not bad and it is better that the balloon is cold, and All this was not done in the heat. So I threw 500 rubles into the trash.

Well, I had to take foam; By the way, at first I wanted to use it, but then I abandoned this idea due to the large amount of debris, which is remarkably electrified and then sticks to everything.

So, a sheet of polystyrene foam 1 x 1 m thick, 5 cm thick (actually 4.5 cm, but that’s just minor things) was purchased. I cut out the wing blade diagonally, otherwise the sheet width was not enough. Next, I put off making the spoiler and took on something simpler - a stand for the number. Everyone knows that Japanese numbers are more square and smaller than Russian ones, so our numbers don’t look good in the places provided for them.

I cut out a blank and bought epoxy glue, but not the kind that comes in syringes for 40-150 rubles per 30 ml, but in a paper box. The quantity and manufacturer are different, but the box is the same. I didn’t have fiberglass; I didn’t know where to get it at that time. And here the old silk shirts came in handy. In general, after a couple of days I glued this stand, a few more days were spent on sanding and painting. I bought the paint in cans for 70 rubles each and covered it with the same varnish (it says Korean).

This is what happened:

Next... no, not a spoiler, but a lip, it’s easier to make (at least the one that turned out :)).

I took off the bumper, turned it over, and glued a blank out of foam plastic, which was weakly held on the bumper by silicone auto sealant. I tore off the blank and let’s give it a shape. After that, I wrapped it in plastic bags. I took the last tights from my friend, pulled them on and coated them with epoxy. After the two layers of tights had dried, I pulled the blank out of the lip (so that it would come out just like the bags are needed, epoxy does not stick to them). The epoxy will finally polymerize only after a few days. Of course, after a day it seems to be hard, but this is not always the case (my lip dried out for more than a week). Although it all depends on the amount of hardener, the more of it, the faster it polymerizes, but it also becomes more fragile, and it is better to add a plating agent for flexibility. Next, the glued lip is not yet strong, so I took the shirt again and glued it from the inside, 2 layers. The lip took two shirts. For strength in building materials, I bought reinforcing mesh and glued it with it. Well, then there was sanding, priming, painting.

Regarding the grip of the lip... on my first trip out of town I updated it :) (high speed + swelling on the road), in the 3rd photo it is just under repair.

Some advice: as practice has shown, a lip glued not from fiberglass simply crumbles when struck like a cookie, and the reinforcing mesh does not help :(, so be sure to look for fiberglass or carbon fiber, otherwise all your work will go down the drain after a small impact. I applied the glue with a brush, it can then be easily washed off in a solvent, but it can be washed cheaper and odorless under running hot water. Do not prepare a lot of glue at once, you may not have time to use it all (I used the largest portions of 200 ml so that the foam sawdust does not stick to you). , touch the water tap in the kitchen more often to relieve electricity.

I advise you to glue at least three layers of fiberglass (on the spoiler it turned out to be 4 + two layers of tights and mesh). Naturally, not all at once, but at intervals necessary for at least a small polymerization of the resin. By the way, epoxy glue polymerizes and does not dry. Moreover, this process accelerates several times at higher temperatures (up to 120 C, if I’m not mistaken), so the main thing for it is time and temperature.

Having glued the spoiler, I re-routed the wires in it, because in addition to the stop bar, I also wanted side lights. Then I skipped the puttying operation, but in vain, it takes a very long time to remove the surfaces with just a primer, and the resulting layer is too thick. Well, after suffering for almost a month with sanding, I started painting. There are generally two options: give it to specialists or paint it yourself. Of course, specialists will do better, but since everything is done with your own hands, why not paint it. I bought 3 cans of black spray paint and painted it.

The glass for the stop bar was made from epoxy. It would be better, of course, to find a rod of the appropriate size made of plexiglass or plexiglass (something transparent and fileable), but I could not find one.

Car before and after:

The costs are as follows (for the lip, license plate stand and spoiler) RUR:

Polystyrene foam - fit into one sheet, still left = 70.
Fiberglass - it took about 2 m for 55 rubles = 110.
Fastenings and welding - scrap metal and oxygen from friends for beer = 20.
Shirts - I wanted to throw them away, my hand didn’t raise = 0.
LEDs 12 mm - 2x7=14.
Neon lighting in the spoiler = 300 * .
Paint - it took two cans = 140.
Primer, 3 jars of 65 = 195.
Epoxy glue - I can’t say for sure, but approximately 2 kg (let’s say 8 bottles of 60 each) = 480.
Foam sealant = 540*.
Wires - 2 meters = 10.
Chinese brushes - 3 pieces = 15.
Grid = 20.
Sandpaper = 100

Total 2014 rubles, although not counting the foam sealant and stop bar, then 1174. I did all this for 3 (three) months. So, if you have a lot of enthusiasm and patience for the cargo train, then go ahead :) But I’m still going to make the rear and front bumpers (the not very beautiful lip turned out, as they say, the first pancake is lumpy), ears and maybe also a hood trim, but I won’t paint it myself.

Nowadays, car stores offer a considerable variety of all kinds of spoilers. However, often those that you like in appearance are partially not suitable in size. Or those that fit perfectly fall somewhat short in terms of characteristics.

If you encounter similar problems, then, of course, there is an option to buy a ready-made spoiler, and if there is not enough length, simply saw the object and make an insert. The time required is minimal, but here the cost of the material and paint is added to the cost of the spoiler itself. And this turns out to be quite expensive.

Creating a spoiler from scratch is profitable (the average cost is about 25-35 dollars) and convenient.
In order to make a spoiler yourself according to your taste and necessary requirements, we will need:

Styrofoam;
- epoxy adhesive;
- Sheet steel;
- fiberglass or old silk-look shirts;
- paint of the required color.

You can paint with a brush or.

Working with polystyrene foam is quite simple, but there is one caveat. After cutting, a lot of debris remains, which is very well electrified and can stick to the drying element at the most crucial moments. Therefore, try to remove the crumbs immediately.

We cut a sheet of foam plastic measuring 1x1 and 4.5 cm thick (sellers usually say 5 cm) diagonally. Cut out the wing blade. So the width of the foam sheet will definitely be enough for you. Next we move on to the fastenings. It is necessary to cut 1.5 mm plates from sheet steel. We drill 3 mm holes with a distance of approximately 2-3 cm. In order to reduce weight and improve adhesion, bend them with the letter L. After these manipulations, weld two 6 mm nuts to the base. Now you can glue them into foam blanks.

We glue the wing blade with epoxy glue and two layers of fabric. Then we assemble the structure.

The lip is done the same way - not very difficult. Remove the bumper and turn it over. Next, you need to glue the blank from foam plastic. We give it a shape and wrap it in plastic bags. Ideally, it is better to find ordinary nylon women's tights, pull them onto the form and coat them with epoxy glue. When the two layers of tights are dry, you need to pull the blank out of the lip. The bags are needed just so that the blank can come off easily, since the epoxy glue does not stick to them. We leave the structure for several days so that the epoxy completely polymerizes.

Then we take the fabric and glue the lip from the inside again. In order to make the structure even more durable, you can buy reinforcing mesh at a building materials store and glue it with it. Next, we sand the structure, prime it and paint it. After the paint has completely dried.

Adviсe

1. Practice shows that a lip not made of fiberglass is quite vulnerable to impacts. Therefore, if you have the opportunity to purchase fiberglass, or better yet carbon fiber, the structures will be many times more impact-resistant and reliable.

2. Apply glue only with a brush, it is convenient and safe, and you can clearly calculate the amount of substance. The brush can be washed well in a solvent or running hot water.

3. Do not prepare all the glue at once, there is a possibility that you will not have time to use it up. The largest portion at a time should be no more than 200 ml.

4. If you did not manage to remove the foam chips in time, then try to touch the water tap in the kitchen more often, this will remove the electricity.

5. If you use fiberglass, then for reliability, glue at least three layers of it. Usually the spoiler ends up with 4 layers of fiberglass, 2 layers of tights and mesh. Each layer must harden, allow the resin to polymerize.

6. If you want to speed up the polymerization process, increase the temperature.

7. If you take into account all these nuances and do not rush to assemble the lip and spoiler, then you can easily get what you have planned the first time.

– this is practically a question of life and death. An “aggressive” spoiler can add the missing zest to the car’s exterior or, on the contrary, ruin everything. Therefore, it is important to know what you want and have a rough idea of ​​what will happen after installing the spoiler.

• A sheet of foam plastic 1x1 m, approximately 5 cm thick. More is possible, but this should be enough (unless, of course, you are going to make a vertical bar instead of a spoiler)


• Fiberglass (the quantity will need to be calculated independently, based on the size of the spoiler. There will be 6 layers of fiberglass)


• Epoxy resin


• Reinforced mesh


• Piece of sheet fabric


• Putty and primer


• Plastic bags