DIY accessories for hand-held power tools. Homemade machines tools fixtures

“You can never have too many tools” - everyone who has been involved in construction or making something has heard this phrase. The right tool is invaluable when you need to saw something off, weld it, or connect parts. The section on FORUMHOUSE about homemade machines and devices, which is called that, is constantly updated with new products that simplify and optimize the work of a builder or a “jack of all trades.”

We have already told you, and... Let's continue the topic we started. Today we will talk about homemade turning, plumbing and even gardening tools and devices for construction.

Grinder cutting machine

Workshop machines are always in demand, but angle grinders Grinder), popularly “grinder”, one of the favorites in the arsenal of any home craftsman. But the instrument requires a very careful attitude, because any neglect may result in serious injury. Therefore, when large volumes When sawing metal (when making a fence or cutting reinforcement), many people prefer to work with a metal cutting machine.

You can buy a frame for an angle grinder on the Internet, but to save money, you can make a cutting machine yourself, from an “unnecessary” or “superfluous” grinder, which almost every owner of a country house has. As we'll see, it's good for more than just sharpening garden equipment!

Ivici FORUMHOUSE user,
Moscow.

I have an angle grinder weighing 5.5 kg. One day I thought about how to make it easier to use. After all, working with it, moving all the time, is inconvenient - your hands get tired quickly. I decided to make a convenient cutting machine from what I had.

Looking ahead, let's say that the machine (more precisely, its second modification) was a success: it cuts smoothly and without distortions.

Ivici I made it like this - I took a piece of channel No. 6.5 (65 mm wide and 36 mm high). This is the basis of the machine.

A steel strip of 50x5 mm was also required. With its help the angle grinder is secured. A 4x2 cm profile and a three-millimeter piece of steel were also required. A figure eight bolt serves as a turning axis.

In the first version of the machine, a powerful door hinge. But, due to welding, under the influence of high temperature, all the lubricant in the loop burned out, and a backlash appeared in the assembly.

According to the user, the most difficult thing was to accurately mark and drill three holes with a diameter of 14 mm for attaching angle grinders with bolts to the threaded holes intended for installing the side handle.

To do this, I had to use a stepped (conical) metal drill.

I also had to work with a round file. A small bore of the holes, due to the backlash, allows you to move the angle grinder a little during the assembly process and accurately install it. After all the parts are ready, the user welded the piece of hardware holding the angle grinder together, assembled the entire structure in rough form, checked all the corners and, making sure that everything was mounted as it should, finally welded the entire structure.

Ivici

The machine is attached to the support table (a piece of slate 1 cm thick) with six self-tapping screws. You can dispense with the return spring, just tighten the axle bolt more tightly. There are no backlashes or distortions when cutting the workpiece. You can also cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

Another homemade machine from an angle grinder was suggested by a portal user with the nickname Bistok.

As usual, first we start a small construction project or remodel, then we realize that we need new construction tools and devices, and then the search for the most optimal solution begins. Well, don't buy it!

Bistok User FORUMHOUSE

I decided to make the stairs out of metal. To avoid defects, backlashes, and discrepancies, maximum precision is required when cutting metal parts. Therefore, I decided, using an angle grinder as a basis, to make a sawing machine.

Everything that is usually lying around in the home workshop (and it would be a pity to throw it away) of a zealous owner went into action, waiting for its finest hour. As a stand for a cutting machine Bistok I used an overlock table.

The swivel unit is made from the hub from the “nine”, because it has a bearing.

As in the option described above, the most difficult thing was to “catch” the right angle between the cutting disc and the stop angle. After all, the accuracy of sawing metal depends on this unit.

The end result is clearly demonstrated by the photo below.

To turn on the grinder Bistok I made additional wiring - I brought out a regular switch and socket, and an extension cord comes from this switch.
You can buy a homemade machine from a craftsman you know, but it’s much better to upgrade to a creator of devices of this level!

Bistok

I got a portable machine. I welded a corner to the handle to get 3 support points for the angle grinder. The fastening with two bolts was adjusted to the location. I work only in safety glasses. I am very pleased with the result of the work done. I didn’t buy anything extra to make the machine. The cut is exactly 90°.

Budget drilling machines

In addition to cutting machines, various devices for drilling holes in metal are popular. Starting from stationary drilling machines and ending with devices in which a conventional drill is fixed, like a “driller” user FORUMHOUSE with nickname g8o8r8.

g8o8r8 FORUMHOUSE Member

While drilling many holes of the same type in thick metal, in order to relieve my hands, I made a simple device based on a clamp welded to metal support, and a pair of clamps for rigid fixation of the drill. Now drilling a corner or channel has become much easier.

According to the user, drilling 1 hole with a diameter of 4-5 mm takes no more than 30 seconds. Having decided to repeat such a design, you should remember that the load on the drill increases significantly due to the increase in the volume of work. g8o8r8 I've already rebuilt my drill twice.

Also, the user, based on an electric motor, made a small “vertical” machine for drilling holes with a diameter of up to 4 mm in printed circuit boards.

g8o8r8

The long spindle compensates for the inaccuracy of the bearing race groove. For amateur use, this machine is quite suitable. Drilling accuracy remains at an acceptable level.

If you do not have a welding machine, you can assemble the device you need on the farm using bolted connections.

Hand trowel for concrete

No less important than homemade machines for the home workshop are devices for construction and repair. And we can easily make many construction devices with our own hands.

Anyone who has ever dealt with concrete work knows how difficult it is to smooth a freshly laid mixture to perfect condition. If in small areas you can get by with the rule, then when pouring the area in front of the house or parking lot, you cannot do it with an ordinary tool. A concrete trowel comes to the rescue, which, due to its long handle (from 3 to 12 m), allows you to smooth concrete over a larger area without stepping on the surface being leveled.

The principle of operation of such a device, somewhat reminiscent of a mop, is simple. There is a working profile (also called a “wing”), attached to a long handle. When moving away from you at the ironer, due to the gearbox, the edge opposite to the user rises. That is, due to the angle of inclination of the “wing”, the trowel glides along the concrete, rather than collecting it in front of itself. When moving towards you, on the contrary, the side facing the worker is lifted up, and the trowel smoothes the concrete again.

ronik55 FORUMHOUSE Member

I know from personal experience how difficult it is to smooth concrete perfectly. I didn’t want to go and buy it for 10 thousand rubles. As a result, my father made a cheap device for smoothing concrete, practically from garbage - all sorts of unnecessary things.

The following photos clearly demonstrate how this ironer works. Let's take it metallic profile(dimensions depend on the area being smoothed), we weld transverse stiffeners to it, on which, in turn, hinge joints made of pipes are fixed.

The most important element, due to which the angle of elevation of the “wing” changes, is a rotating gearbox with a chain.

When the handle was rotated, the chain was wound around the pipe, and one edge of the smoother was raised.

Having carried the iron to the end point, we rotate the handle in the opposite direction. The chain is wound again, and the edge of the smoother is raised, facing the user.

We pull the ironing iron towards ourselves and repeat all the steps until we finish the job.

ronik55

Due to the “pipe-in-pipe” connection and fixation with a cotter pin, you can increase the length of the handle at your discretion. This design is easy to assemble yourself.

See how to make it yourself (follow the link and you will find a drawing).

Garden sprayer and clamp

It all started with Metamorph it was necessary to treat the area against ticks, and the old manual sprayer had given up its life. There was an urgent need to buy a new device or find a replacement for it. While preparing for processing and thinking about what could be done, a user of our portal came across an unnecessary fire extinguisher lying around the household.

Next, we proceed as follows - carefully unscrew the fire extinguisher, pour out the remaining powder and rinse the cylinder with water. Instead of a bell, we screw in an adapter into which, depending on the need, you can screw in a nipple (for pumping air) or a nozzle (for spraying the mixture).

Metamorf FORUMHOUSE Member

Using a homemade sprayer is very simple: fill the fire extinguisher halfway with a special spray liquid, then pump it with air, screw on the sprayer and go poison the ticks.

DIY carpentry tools

QWEsad FORUMHOUSE Member

One day I needed to glue together a lot of wooden panels. I didn't have any clamps. So I decided to a quick fix assemble a framework from wooden blocks with a cross-section of 5x5 cm and metal plates with welded nuts in “tens”.

In total, the user made 3 of these wedges; this was enough to glue a wooden board measuring 1.5x1.7 m and 18 mm thick. To prevent the bars from sticking to the workpiece, under those places where there is a seam and glue may protrude, you can put a newspaper or shoot polyethylene with a stapler.

In order not to spoil the workpiece, you need to place a gasket under the plate into which the screw rests. The gluing width is adjusted by moving the stop bar.

Each master strives to maximally equip his sphere, saturate working space machine tools and fixtures. Homemade machines and devices for the home workshop are of great benefit for running a private household.

Among the homemade household crafts and equipment are:

  • joinery;
  • Workbench;
  • stool;
  • shelves;
  • racks.

Crafting table

Workbench dimensions

The height of the tabletop surface must be such that a worker can operate tools and equipment while standing. The workshop owner determines the height of the workbench himself - according to his height. The height of the desktop ranges from 75 cm to 80 cm.

The size of the countertop is determined by the area of ​​the utility room. The table should not impede free passage around it.

Workbench material

Tree
Often used wooden table. The workbench is made of timber and boards. The legs of the table are secured with diagonal crossbars for reliability.

The table top is made in the form of a shield from knocked down boards using pieces of timber. The shield is rested on the legs of the table and fastened with nails or screws. The connection parts are made from angle steel.

The options for assembling a wooden workbench are different, but they have one thing in common - the table structure must be stable and withstand static and dynamic loads.

If the surface of the workbench will be subject to accidental impact from cutting and sharp tools, then the tabletop is covered with tin or a metal sheet is placed on top.

Metal
The most reliable design desktop is a workbench welded from a metal profile. Manufacturing a welded product requires having a welding machine and experience working with it.

The supporting frame and table legs are welded from steel angle and strip. For auxiliary parts, pieces of reinforcement are used.

The table top is made of metal sheet, 8 - 12 mm thick. A thick sheet will significantly increase the weight of the workbench, which will make it difficult to move.

Stool

Making a stool with your own hands is quite simple:

  1. 4 supports, 50 cm long, are made from timber 40 x 40 mm.
  2. The legs in the middle of the length are fastened with crossbars.
  3. Grooves are made in the supports using a chisel.
  4. At the ends of the transverse planks, protrusions are cut out using a chisel to fit the grooves.
  5. The protrusions are lubricated with wood glue and inserted into the grooves.
  6. While the glue dries, the supports are tightened with a belt.
  7. The seat is cut out with a circular saw from wide board 30 mm thick.
  8. A seat measuring 300 x 300 mm is nailed or screwed to the legs of the stool.

Shelves

Shelves are made from boards, chipboard or MDF. They can be open or with side walls. For fastening, furniture hinges are used.

Holes are drilled in the wall into which dowels are driven. The screws are not screwed into the dowels completely so that the hinges of the shelf can be placed on them.

The hinges are screwed to the back of the shelf. The shelves are hung on the wall by placing the hinges on the heads of the screws.

Shelving

Racks are a whole complex of shelves different sizes. They are good to make from chipboard. The lattice structure is supported on a pedestal or simply placed on the floor. For stability of the rack, corners are screwed to the sides of the furniture. Free shelves of corners with holes are nailed to the wall with dowels.

Vertical tool holders

Every craftsman strives to organize his workplace so that the tools are at arm's length. This is facilitated by vertical holders.

Wrench holder

  1. Mounted on the wall above the workbench wooden plank. The rail is screwed with screws into dowels installed in advance.
  2. Small nails are driven into the strip at intervals equal to the width of the wrench handles.
  3. The keys are hung on the rail.
  4. Nail heads hold keys horizontally and vertically.

Screwdriver holder

  1. In a piece of timber 40 x 40 mm, holes are drilled corresponding to the diameters of screwdrivers, at a distance of 30 - 40 mm from each other.
  2. A piece of timber is nailed to the wall with dowels so that the holes are located vertically.
  3. Screwdrivers are inserted into the resulting sockets. Now you can quickly get the tool you need without leaving your workplace.

Belt for chisels

  1. The plank is secured with dowels to the wall.
  2. The belt or belt is nailed to the bar so that unique through pockets are obtained.
  3. Chisels are lowered into the pockets, through which only steel blades pass. The handles are held in place by a belt.

The device can hold hammers, pliers, pliers and other tools.

Homemade soldering iron stand

When working with a soldering iron, a situation arises when you need to put the tool down. Placing a soldering iron with a hot tip on a tabletop or on any object is always risky. Homemade stand will solve this problem.

An example of making a stand for a soldering iron

  1. The holder is made of wire in the form of a spiral. To do this, unbend a wire clothes hanger.
  2. The wire is wound around a cylindrical object with a diameter of 1.5 - 2 cm. The handle of a chisel or other tool will do.
  3. On one side of the spring there is a free end of the wire.
  4. The end is bent into a loop with pliers.
  5. For the base of the stand, take a board 200 x 100 x 20 mm.
  6. A through hole ø 4 mm is drilled at the base.
  7. A hole is drilled from the back of the board with a large drill for a countersunk screw head.
  8. The screw is threaded from bottom to top.
  9. Place the spring loop on the screw and tighten the nut.
  10. Circles are cut into the board using a crown to fit the size of a cup for candles or similar products.
  11. Using a chisel, make a sample of wood in 3 recesses.
  12. Cups are inserted into the openings, which are filled with solder, tin and a napkin to clean the tip.
  13. The soldering iron is inserted into the spring.
  14. A small hole is made in the board for attaching a flexible steel cord from a lamp.
  15. A clamp is attached to the end of the cord, which is used to secure various parts for soldering.

The design may have a different look - it all depends on the imagination and ingenuity of the author.

The simplest mousetrap in the world

This name can be assigned to many homemade mousetraps invented by craftsmen. They have one thing in common - humane treatment of animals caught in a trap. The device does not kill the animal, but isolates it. A few examples of how to make a simple mousetrap:

Plastic funnel

Cut a plastic 3 liter bottle in half. The cut neck is turned over and inserted into the bottom of the bottle. Bait (seeds, grain, etc.) is poured onto the bottom.

The trap is placed close to an object on which the mouse could climb. A rodent, having fallen into a funnel, can no longer get out of the bottle.

Console

The design is a tilting platform. It is made from a piece of cardboard or plastic. The bar is placed on a plane so that half of it hangs in the air.

The bait is placed on the edge of the console so that the bar is on the verge of balance. The animal, having reached the bait, overturns the bar and falls along with it into the substituted bucket.

Suspension

An empty plastic bottle with bait at the bottom is placed on the edge of the table. A cord is attached to the neck by piercing the plastic with a hook made from a paper clip. The other end of the cord is tied to some support.

The mouse, attracted by the smell of food, enters the container. The bottle tips over under the weight of the rodent and hangs on the cord.

Mini vise made of metal loop

When performing small operations, small parts often need to be clamped. To do this, use a mini vice made from a one-piece door hinge.

Matching holes are drilled in both hinge flaps.

A bolt of suitable diameter is threaded through them. On the other side, a wing nut is screwed onto the bolt thread. The parts are inserted into the opening between the doors and clamped by tightening the nut. The device can be used as a clamp.

Portable beer box

Beverage box in glass containers– a convenient device for carrying several bottles at once at the dacha or picnic. To make such a box with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:

Tools

  • jigsaw;
  • wood saw;
  • sander;
  • drill-driver;
  • drill;
  • hammer;
  • chisel;
  • feather drill.

Materials

  • edged board – 1050 x 170 x 15 mm;
  • fruit box slats - 5 pcs.;
  • handle ø 36 mm and length 350 mm;
  • stain;
  • screws;
  • nails.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling the box

  1. The edged board is sawn into three identical parts (bottom and two sides), each 350 mm long.
  2. Two boards are cut with a jigsaw so that the sides taper from the middle and end in an oval top.
  3. At the tops of the sidewalls, holes ø 36 mm are drilled with a feather drill.
  4. All wooden parts are cleaned with a grinder and an emery wheel. The cuttings are sanded manually with emery.
  5. Using a thin drill, drill 4 holes along the edges of the bottom. The nests of holes are countersinked from below.
  6. The sidewalls are installed on the sides of the bottom. Screws are screwed into the bottom of the bottom. The heads of the screws are “hidden” in the sockets of the holes.
  7. Two strips are nailed to the sides with nails on each side of the box. They will become a vertical fence for bottles.
  8. Cuts are made in three planks so that by folding them, you get a sheathing with square openings for glass containers.
  9. The sheathing is laid on the bottom between the sidewalls.
  10. Nails are nailed in those places where the ends of the sheathing rest against the sidewalls and fencing strips.
  11. A ø 36 mm handle is inserted into the holes in the tops of the sidewalls.
  12. Driving the nails in at an angle, fasten the sides to the handle.
  13. The entire surface of the box is treated with stain.

The box is ready for use. The portable container can easily accommodate 6 bottles of beer or other drink. The crate's lathing and guards will prevent bottles from breaking or falling out while being carried.

Hammer upgrade

A common occurrence is loss wooden handle from the hammer socket. One of the ways to create a reliable handle fastening is to make a cut in the upper end of the handle. The holder is inserted into the hammer socket. The cut is filled with Moment glue. A wooden wedge is driven into the groove.

In order not to look for nails while working, and especially not to hold them with your teeth, a round magnet is glued into the bottom of the hammer handle. Magnetic nails will always be at hand for the worker.
It is dangerous for the hammer to accidentally fall out of your hand at height. To prevent this from happening, a hole is drilled in the handle through which the cord is threaded. The worker's belt is threaded through the loop.

Homemade tools and machines

Pipe bender

Bending device metal pipes It is a metal rod welded to the frame. I make the rod from a piece of reinforcement. The pipe is placed on a pin, and on the other side a long piece of reinforcement is inserted into the pipe. By pressing the lever, the pipe is bent at the desired angle. The device is suitable for small sections round pipes.

Device for bending profiled pipes

Greenhouse owners know how important it is to have a device for bending long lengths of profile pipe. The curved profile is used as an arched structure for the formation of polyethylene coverings for greenhouses.

A pipe bender allows you to save a lot of money on the construction of a greenhouse. The design consists of 3 rollers - two are guides, and the third roller performs the leading function.

The profile pipe is inserted into the opening between the two wheels and the roller. The roller has a stop and a rotating device in the form of a lever or an electric motor drive.

Making a pipe bender with your own hands

  1. Two axles are welded to a metal frame from pieces of smooth reinforcement, onto which old car hubs are placed.
  2. Protruding chamfers are removed from the hubs to side surfaces the rollers were smooth.
  3. The channel is placed in the opening between the hubs with the shelves facing up.
  4. The same profile, smaller in width, with the flanges down, is placed into the channel.
  5. An axle is welded to the top of the inner profile, onto which the third hub is placed.
  6. A vertical shelf made of steel sheet is welded to the frame.
  7. A hole is cut in the vertical bar and the bearing is pressed into it.
  8. A nut is secured to the middle channel by welding.
  9. One end of the screw rod is screwed into the nut.
  10. The screw shank is threaded through a bearing in a vertical bar.
  11. A rotary handle is welded to the shank on the back side of the bar.
  12. A swing arm is welded to the axis of the drive hub.

The machine is ready for use. A profile pipe is inserted between the rollers and clamped with a screw. The rotary lever drives the rollers, which pull the pipe, bending it. The bending radius is set using the rotary handle of the screw.

A pipe bender made from car hubs is one of the device options. There are many designs of bending devices. In some models, the drive roller is coaxially connected to the motor shaft.

Impact screwdriver from starter

There are situations when it is impossible to unscrew a rusted bolt or screw with a conventional tool. An impact screwdriver does this job perfectly. The tool is made by hand from parts of a car starter:

  1. The shaft and bushing are removed from the starter housing.
  2. Part of the shaft is cut off, leaving a splined rod.
  3. A piece of pipe of suitable size is placed on the sleeve.
  4. A piece of bolt of equal diameter is welded to the end of the pipe.
  5. The end of the shaft is ground into a tetrahedron shape, onto which heads of the required size are placed. For screws, a bit is inserted into the head.

When you hit the head of the bolt with a hammer, the shaft slides with beveled splines inside the sleeve, performing a rotational movement. How hit harder, the more force the shaft rotates.

Homemade circular saw machine

A do-it-yourself cutting machine made from an angle grinder is not inferior to some factory-made samples. The grinder is a fairly powerful hand circular saw.

The grinder-based machine performs precise cuts of lumber and metal profiles. To make it you will need the power tool itself, welding machine and metal profile.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling the machine

  1. Two metal strips are welded to the pipe section, in which mounting holes are drilled.
  2. Accordingly, two holes are also made in the casing of the angle grinder.
  3. The strips are bolted to the casing.
  4. The machine bed is made from a metal sheet with support corners welded to the bottom.
  5. A vertical section of a corner is attached to the frame by welding, in which a hole is drilled.
  6. A piece of angle is welded to the lower end of the lever and drilled through along with the pipe.
  7. The bolt is threaded through the holes and the hinge connection of the vertical post with the lever is tightened with a nut. Additionally, install a lock nut.
  8. In a vertical position, the angle grinder lever takes a stable position.
  9. A cut is made at the point where the saw blade comes into contact with the frame so that the blade can completely cut the workpiece.
  10. The handle of the power tool is moved to the end of the lever.
  11. As additional devices, a transverse and angular stop are installed on the frame.

If necessary, remove the power tool from the machine and use a circular saw in manual mode.

Homemade bow saw

A bow saw is a convenient tool for cutting tree trunks and lumber. The design of the saw is simple; making a hand tool with your own hands is not difficult. To do this you need to prepare tools and materials:

Tools

  • drill;
  • hacksaw;
  • chisel;
  • hammer;

Materials

  • cord;
  • wooden slats 20 x 40 mm;
  • cotter pins – 2 pcs.;
  • stalk ø 10 mm;
  • saw blade;
  • stain;
  • wood varnish.

Step-by-step instructions for making a bow saw

  1. The lath is cut into three parts (two vertical side strips and a middle horizontal strip).
  2. Grooves are made in the side handles using a chisel.
  3. At the ends of the centerpiece, protrusions for grooves are cut out with a chisel.
  4. The centerpiece is connected to the side handles.
  5. Through holes are drilled at the joints. Wooden cotter pins are driven into them.
  6. Cotter pins form hinge joints. This is necessary for the mobility of the lower ends of the side slats when the canvas is tensioned.
  7. Cuts are made at the lower ends of the sidewalls - parallel to the middle.
  8. In the holes saw blade insert short bolts and tighten them with nuts.
  9. The blade is inserted into the cuts so that the bolts are on the outside of the structure.
  10. Circular grooves are cut out at the upper ends of the handles.
  11. Loops are made at the ends of the double cord, which are placed on the grooves.
  12. A handle is inserted between the strings of the cord, the long end of which rests on the mullion.
  13. The saw string is twisted using a handle, achieving the desired degree of tension on the saw blade.
  14. The wood is covered with stain and two layers of varnish.
  15. After the varnish has dried, the saw is ready for use.

Conclusion

Homemade devices, tools and machines not only bring significant benefits to the garden, garage and household, but also save significantly family budget. When making and using homemade products, one must not forget about safety rules.

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A home workshop is far from uncommon in the yard of any zealous owner. When arranging it, there are some features that must be observed. Our review will help you select and make homemade machines and devices for your home workshop, as well as understand the technology of their manufacture. Each owner can independently select the necessary equipment. And if you know technical features structures, then you can arrange the room yourself.When arranging equipment, it is important to plan for sufficient space. It is better if the workshop is equipped in a separate room.

The quality of work and comfortable working conditions depend on the functional arrangement of a home workshop.

Before selecting a set of homemade machines, it is necessary to create optimal working conditions. In this case, the size of the room must be at least 6 square meters. m. You can attach an additional room to the garage or to the house.It is important to decide what types of work you will carry out, as well as make a list of equipment and necessary tools.

It is most convenient to organize storage of some types of tools on the wall. This will save space. The shelves are also convenient to use.To save usable area, it is worth making universal devices that combine several functions. The table should be equipped with drawers, and also be used as.

carpentry workbench

  • When choosing homemade machines and devices for your home workshop, you can select different types of mini equipment. For working with metals, the following options are used: grinding equipment


used for drilling holes. In the manufacture of such a lifting mechanism design, a steering rack is used. In addition, you can install an angle milling machine.

  • For wood processing, various homemade tools and do-it-yourself devices are used. The most commonly used types are cutting, turning and grinding. With their help, you can perform all types of work at home. The following equipment is used for wood processing:. The simplest device is electric or. Such units can be disk, belt, or chainsaw sawmills. During production homemade equipment It is worth considering the diameter of the disk, as well as the width of the cutting part;


  • grinding device. The simplest option is made from a stable table, a vertical grinding shaft and an electric motor. An abrasive belt is used to process the ends of wood blanks.

Related article:

Woodworking machines for the home workshop. Specialized equipment with an electric drive greatly simplifies the processing of wood blanks. But acquiring it involves significant investments. To successfully solve this problem, you should carefully study the materials in this article.

DIY tool shelves: popular designs and manufacturing

It is worth noting the following options for storing tools:

  • racks;
  • hanging shelves;
  • wall structures;
  • shelves in the form of shields on which small tools can be mounted.

You can make a panel shelf for a tool with your own hands like this:

  • cut out a shield from plywood and mark the places where the shelves will be installed;
  • make shelves with side walls, the length of which should correspond to the length of the shield;
  • the shelves are fixed to the panel using self-tapping screws;
  • hooks are mounted, which are equipped with a special thread;
  • The brackets are being installed on the back side of the shield.

For your information! Panel shelves are functional. You can attach hooks or special holders to them. An additional lamp can be hung above such a structure. In this case, you can use a small light bulb.

Designing a carpentry workbench with your own hands: drawings, video

Let's start learning about useful DIY household gadgets from the workbench. This useful unit comes in the following varieties: stationary, mobile and folding.

Remember that a do-it-yourself folding workbench drawing should contain the following details:

  • a working surface, to create which you will need a board at least 6 cm thick. In this case, hornbeam, beech or oak are used. You can use boards painted with drying oil;

  • a vice structure is mounted on the top cover;
  • The supporting legs of the workbench are made of pine and linden. Longitudinal connecting beams are placed between them to ensure stability of the entire structure;
  • Shelves for tools are mounted under the workbench.

You can watch how to make a simple workbench in this video:

Technology and drawings of a do-it-yourself carpentry workbench: simple design

To make such a device, you will need drawings with the dimensions of the carpentry workbench.

In this photo you can see how the folding structure is made

Let's look at how to build such a device:

  • To make the lid you will need thick boards. The dimensions of the shield should be 0.7 * 2 meters. Long nails are used for fastening;
  • The roof is finished using;
  • depending on the dimensions of the carpentry workbench, vertical supports are used;
  • The height of the working surface of do-it-yourself carpentry workshop tools is determined. Markings for the beams are applied on the ground where these elements are buried;
  • The workbench cover is being installed. The support bars are attached in pairs. In this case, long ones are used.

Features of creating and designing a wooden workbench with your own hands

You can buy a wooden workbench or make one yourself. Additionally, the structure can be equipped with drawers. So, let's look at the manufacturing technology:

  • vertical supports are fixed using horizontal jumpers. They make grooves for connecting fittings. In this case, a chisel and a hammer can be used;
  • When the jumpers are installed at the required level, holes are made in the bars on the support. Then the bolt is mounted, after which the elements are tightened;
  • horizontal jumpers are installed two pieces on each side. Parts under the countertop will be required for installation above the work surface;
  • bolts are used to secure the work surface. Holes for fastening elements are drilled on the tabletop. The bolts are mounted so that the bolts are recessed.

You can easily do it at home. In this case, you will need an emery cloth and a sanding belt. Its sticker is applied end-to-end. To strengthen the seam, you need to put it under the bottom dense material. In this case, you should not use low-quality glue.

The diameter of the tape shaft should be several mm wider in the center than at the edge. To prevent the tape from slipping, it is necessary to wind it with thin rubber.For the manufacture of grinding devices, you can select designs such as planetary, cylindrical grinding and surface grinding.

Technology for making a carpenter's vice for a workbench with your own hands

For workbenches, you often make a vice with your own hands at home. The video allows you to see this process:

To make such a design you will need special studs.To work, you will need a screw pin with a thread. You also need to prepare a couple of boards. One element will be fixed, and the second will move. When manufacturing, it is necessary to use drawings of a vice with your own hands. In each of the boards it is necessary to make holes for pins, which are connected with nails. Then screws and nuts with washers are inserted into them. When constructing a homemade vice with your own hands, you should use instructions and ready-made diagrams.

Helpful information! If you make the pins movable, you can make workpieces of various sizes.

Making a metal bench with your own hands: drawings

If you often work with metals, the best solution would be to create a metal workbench with your own hands. Wood material is not suitable for such purposes, since it will often be damaged when processing metal products.

It is worth noting the following elements of such a device:

  • horizontal jumpers are used to ensure longitudinal rigidity;
  • Small rack beams are made from profiled pipes. They are used to assemble the frame part of pipes. In the corner zone there are welded spacers, which are made of steel strips;
  • for rack beams, profile pipes with a wall thickness of 3-4 mm are used;
  • corner No. 50 is necessary for the racks on which the tools are mounted.

To create high-quality seams, it is necessary to use a carbon dioxide semi-automatic machine, as well as a pulse-type welding machine.

Assembly universal device starts with the frame. To do this, long and short beams are welded. To prevent them from twisting together, follow these steps:

After this, the rear beam and vertical posts are mounted. It is important to check how evenly they are located in relation to each other. If there are any deviations, they can be bent using a hammer. When the frame is ready, special corners are attached to it to strengthen the structure. The tabletop is made from wooden planks, which are impregnated with fire-resistant liquid. A steel sheet is placed on top.A shield made of . The same material is used for lining the cabinet.

Table 1. Making a metal bench with your own hands

ImageInstallation stages
A carbon dioxide semi-automatic machine is used for welding the structure.
Creating a structure frame. For welding, all parts must be laid out on a flat surface. At first, the joining joints are simply tacked together, and then all the seams are welded. The rear pillars and beam are welded to the frame.
After welding all the stiffening elements, the following frame is obtained.
Then a reinforcing angle is attached to the frame to secure the table top. Before installation, the boards must be treated with a special fire-resistant compound. A sheet of metal is attached to the top.
The side walls are finished with plywood panels, and wooden boxes are placed in the right cabinet. To protect the base, the surfaces are coated with various paints and varnishes. First, the primer is distributed, and then a special enamel is used.

Do-it-yourself knife sharpening device: drawings and nuances

To make a sharpener from an engine with your own hands, you can take parts from old Soviet devices. To build a sharpening machine you will need the following parts:

  • tube for turning flanges;
  • grindstone;
  • special nuts;
  • steel elements for the construction of protective casings;
  • cable cord;
  • launching device;
  • a block of wood or a metal corner.

The flange section must match the dimensions of the bushing. A sharpening stone will also be placed on this element. This part will also have a special thread. In this case, the flange is pressed onto the motor shaft. Fastening is carried out by welding or bolting.

The working winding is fixed to the cable. Moreover, it has a resistance of 12 ohms, which can be calculated using a multimeter. A frame is also made, for which a metal corner is taken.

How to sharpen a drill for metal: do-it-yourself device

You can make a simple metal drill sharpening machine from ordinary tools. An abrasive block is suitable for this.

At home you can use the following equipment:

  • You can use an electric sharpener to sharpen the drill. In this case, sharpening is performed from the edge. When using a sharpener, you need to pay attention to the sharpening angle and the fixation of the drill on the axis of rotation. Excess metal should be removed gradually. Finally, the edges are shaped into a cone;
  • as sharpening machine using a grinder with your own hands. For sharpening, the cutting tool is secured in a vice. To do this, the mounting angle is selected and the disk is mounted.

It is worth considering that the grinder is mounted on a flat surface. In this case, the disk should be located downwards. If the grinding device is not secured securely, it can damage the drill. Sharpening with a grinder can only be done for products with a small diameter. It is not possible to finish using a grinding device. For stand cutting tool the edge of the shield is used.

You can also use a drill attachment, which should be equipped with a grinding disc with sandpaper. To grind elements with a drill, you need to find two flat surfaces.

Drilling machine for home workshop

You can make a drilling machine attachment from a drill with your own hands. The drawings will help you understand the design. For such a design you will need the following elements:

  • base or frame;
  • rotation device;
  • mechanism for ensuring supply;
  • stand for fastening the door.

Here are the main steps in making a homemade drilling machine with your own hands:

To make a drilling machine you will need a rotary tool feed mechanism. The design uses springs and a lever. There are various tools for sharpening drills.

Assembling a drilling machine with your own hands: drawings with dimensions

The design will also require the manufacture of a homemade vice for a drilling machine. The simplest device can be assembled from a drill, without a steering rack. To minimize vibration processes, it is necessary to build a more massive table. The stand and table are connected at right angles. In this case, the drill can be attached using clamps. A vice is mounted on the table surface.

Designing a press for a garage with your own hands

The design is intended for straightening, pressing, bending of sheet materials and for compression. Devices for plumbing work are characterized by a compact and simple design. The forces from such a press can vary between 5-100 tons. For garage work, 10-20 tons is quite enough.To make a similar design, a manual drive is used. The hydraulic device contains two chambers with pistons.

Do-it-yourself press from a jack drawings

You can see how to make a simple device on a special video of a press made from a jack with your own hands:

A simple option is a hydraulic one, which can be constructed from a bottle jack.An important element is the frame, inside of which the jack is placed. The platform is used as a reliable base. The upper surface is used to support the elements being processed. The table should move freely up and down on the frame.In this case, rigid springs are attached to the base on one side, and to the working surface on the other.

Here simple circuit builds:

  • the necessary elements are cut out according to the drawings;
  • The base is mounted by welding. Wherein steel structure should resemble the letter P;
  • a mobile table is made from a pipe and channel;
  • Finally, the springs are fixed.

Do-it-yourself metal cutting disc machine technology

They will help you make the design of a metal cutting machine with your own hands - drawings. Disc cutting machines are made from a special frame or platform. The machine is equipped with elements that provide strong fixation. A steel disc is used as cutting parts. To cut metal, a wheel coated with an abrasive material is used.

The cutting parts are driven by an electric motor. Disc machines equipped with pendulum, front and bottom components.

You can also watch in the video below how to make a cutting machine from an angle grinder with your own hands:

The machine works like this:

  • are being done protective covers on which the drive belt is mounted;
  • the engine is attached;
  • a shaft is made on which the drive pulley and cutting disc are fixed;
  • a movable upper part of the structure is installed in the pendulum element;
  • a shaft is mounted to fix the pendulum;
  • a frame is made for mounting the machine;
  • the pendulum is fixed to the frame;

Any owner of a workshop, even if it does not have a separate room and is simply organized in a garage, strives to equip it with everything necessary for a comfortable, productive and, most importantly, quality work. But nowadays you can’t “get far” with a hand tool. A great variety of power tools, various multifunctional or narrow-profile machines, and auxiliary equipment comes to the rescue. There are no problems with supply - the main difficulty is that high-quality products cost a lot of money, and not everyone can afford it.

But craftsmen find a way out of the situation by making such machines and devices on their own, some of which may well compete with factory models. Moreover, to create such equipment, they use quite available materials, often just collecting dust in the barn. And running power tools, usually found in any workshop, are widely used as drives.

This publication will discuss only some homemade machines and devices for the home workshop. It should be correctly understood that it is simply impossible to cover all the available variety of such equipment within the framework of one article. It’s time to give this topic a separate site altogether. So this will mostly be a general overview. But we will consider the manufacture of two models, which are probably very important for any workshop - a pendulum saw and a sharpening machine for cutting tools, step by step, with all the nuances, from the first outlines to testing.

The basics are a convenient workbench and organized storage of tools and accessories.

The comfort of working in the workshop depends on many important conditions. If we take the issues of heating, ventilation and lighting out of the picture (these are topics for separate consideration), then the rational, convenient organization of the main workplace always comes to the fore.

We are talking about a workbench and a well-thought-out storage system for tools, accessories, consumables and other small items necessary for work.

The workbench is selected or made independently, depending on the main direction of work in the workshop.

“Classic” carpentry workbench

If the owner is more focused on wood processing, then he will need a carpentry workbench. There is a long-used and extensively tested general concept for such a workplace. It probably makes sense to stick to it when making your own workbench.

The workbench is based on powerful wooden legs (item 1), which at the bottom, at the base, are usually connected in pairs by support bridges (item 2). There is a cover on top - a workbench board (item 3). As a rule, a recessed area is provided - the so-called tray (item 4) so ​​that during work the tools or components necessary at hand do not fall on the floor.

Usually with right side there is a side or rear clamp (pos. 5). In essence, this is a screw vice, which has a wedge that extends upward (item 6). Along the line of this wedge along the bench board there is a row of slots (item 7) for similar wedges (they can be hidden in these slots or stored separately and inserted as needed). This allows you to rigidly fasten a wooden workpiece for processing between the wedges of the table and the side vice.

To secure a long part that cannot be secured between the outer wedges, use the front clamp (item 8). This is also a screw vice that is capable of clamping the workpiece between the front end of the workbench and a movable wooden jaw. And in order for a long part to have necessary points the supports are from below; fingers or retractable supports hidden there in the grooves extend from the end of the workbench (pos. 9).

The lower area of ​​the workbench is called the underbench (item 10). As a rule, there are powerful crossbars (legs) that connect the legs of the layout in pairs in the longitudinal direction. These crossbars often contain shelves for storing tools or workpieces, or even, as shown in the diagram shown, a closed cabinet.

Below is a drawing of the workbench. Anyone who knows how to read diagrams and has carpentry skills will be able to make such a model on their own.

To begin with - general wiring diagram carpentry workbench with dimensions.

Now - a series of drawings for individual parts and components of the structure.

As a rule, high-quality wood is used for the manufacture of parts for the underbench (base). coniferous species with residual humidity no more than 12%.

The bench board (cover) is mainly made from hardwood - it can be beech or oak, ash or maple. Making such a massive dimensional panel yourself is an extremely difficult task, so often a ready-made laminated board is ordered or purchased from a carpentry workshop. This is unlikely to seem like an overly expensive solution, given the cost of the material and the complexity of the process. So it’s more profitable to purchase a finished product, and then modify it for a workbench.

By the way, when performing various processing operations, one way or another, the surface of the desktop will be damaged. To maximize the life of the workbench, the lid is often covered with a plywood or fiberboard sheet (naturally, according to the size of the table and with all the necessary grooves and sockets). As this coating wears out, it can be replaced with a new one - this is not so difficult and inexpensive.

Particularly difficult is usually the installation of the front and rear (side) clamps. To get really efficient and convenient devices, it is better to purchase the screw mechanism of the vice itself in a ready-made, assembled form. There are many models suitable for this purpose on sale.

To assemble these clamping units, you can use the following drawing as a guide:

Vise jaws must be made exclusively from hardwood, the dimensions and location of the holes are shown in the drawing. (It should be correctly understood that the location and diameter of the holes must correspond to the purchased screw mechanism).

And finally, the last diagram shows how to attach the rear fixed jaws of both vices to the workbench lid.

Of course, an example is shown here, and it may suit many in “ pure form", that is, without changes. But if other dimensions are required (based, for example, on the available space), then you can draw up your own drawing, taking the demonstrated diagrams as a sample for assembling certain components. The principle still remains the same. If necessary, no one bothers you to make your own improvements, which, of course, should not negatively affect the strength of the structure.

Video: mechanic's workbench with his farts

If the master plans to mainly engage in metalworking operations, then he will need a completely different workbench, designed specifically for such purposes. Here, in contrast to the carpentry “classics”, there is an innumerable amount possible options. As a rule, steel profiles (angles, channels, profile pipes) and sheets are used for production. One of the quite decent options shown in the video below:

An important component of comfortable work in the workshop is always an optimized arrangement and storage system for tools and accessories. But we will not dwell on this, since a separate article is devoted to this topic on the pages of our portal.

How to make the workshop as comfortable as possible for work?

It’s convenient when you know where everything is and when the necessary tool is always at hand. So you should pay close attention to the system of cabinets, racks, cabinets, and intelligently organized storage areas Supplies. This is especially important in cases where the size of the room does not allow for “clearance”. There is a special publication dedicated to questions on our portal.

Homemade machines and equipment

As already mentioned, the variety of homemade machines is extremely large, and it is simply impossible to talk about them all. Therefore, in this section of the article the reader will be offered several video reviews. And, in addition, the manufacture of two models of machines will be considered in detail, step by step.

Video - miniature wood lathe based on an electric drill

On the farm, there is often a need to turn one or another wooden piece with a round cross-section. If you don’t do this professionally, then purchasing a real lathe is completely unprofitable. And it will take up a lot of space. But having at your disposal a miniature machine that can be stored in a closet and assembled as needed will never hurt. Moreover, its manufacture is not such a difficult matter.

You can verify this by watching the proposed video. Despite the fact that the author speaks English, all his actions are shown in detail and are quite understandable. And such a machine, guided by this video tip, is within the power of anyone to make.

Video - a circular saw based on a manual vertical electric saw

If there is a need to prepare a considerable number of wooden parts of the same size, then you can’t think of anything better than a stationary circular saw. And it is quite possible to make such a machine, and, again, in a collapsible version, which, due to its uselessness, does not take up practically any space at all.

All you need is a sheet of plywood, a few blocks and screws. And the main element of the design is a hand-held vertical saw

In the shown scene, the master removes part of the protective guard of a manual circular saw. This is not always necessary. It is quite possible that the free exit of the saw will be enough if you plan to cut not too thick workpieces.

Pendulum saw from an angle grinder - self-production step by step

When cutting workpieces or wood or metal, including profile or round pipes, high precision is often required. Moreover, the accuracy is not only in linear dimensions, but also in the cutting angle. A typical example is when it is necessary to accurately cut blanks for a frame in which the joining of parts is either strictly perpendicular or at an angle of 45 degrees.

A pendulum saw allows you to perform this operation. The diagram above shows in a simplified form the principle of its structure and operation.

In any case, there is a reliable base (bed, frame) that ensures the stability of the machine (item 1). In many models, a work table with a system of guides, stops and clamps is organized on top of the bed, allowing you to accurately align the workpiece. There must be a slot (item 2), exactly into which the rotating circle or saw is lowered.

The support (item 3) of the swinging part of the machine is rigidly attached to the frame. It is equipped with a bearing block and an axis (pos. 4), relative to which the swinging platform-rocker arm (pos. 5) rotates. An electric drive (pos. 6) is located on this platform, transmitting rotation directly or through a transmission system (pos. 7) to a cutting tool - a cutting wheel or circular saw (pos. 8). A lever (pos. 9) or handle is provided, with which the master can smoothly lower the cutting disk down onto the workpiece mounted on the work table above the slot.

But the capabilities of this tool will become immeasurably wider if you make a special milling table for it. One of the options for such a homemade machine is in the proposed video.

Homemade machine for sharpening cutting tools - step by step

In the workshop, in the kitchen, and just around the house, a lot of cutting tools are used that need regular sharpening. Walking disc knife sharpeners provide a very short-term effect of sharpening the cutting edge, since they remove metal along the edge of the blade, and according to all the rules it is required - perpendicular to it. When sharpening manually using whetstones or on a rotating sharpener, it is very difficult to accurately maintain the optimal angle, especially so that it is equal along the entire length of the blade. By the way, this full sharpening angle is different for various types cutting tools - there are many separate publications on this topic on the Internet.

This means that in order to qualitatively sharpen, for example, a knife, a device is required that would allow applying force with the translational direction of a flat abrasive perpendicular to the cutting edge consistently along its entire length with a single, pre-set angle of inclination. And to provide visual control over the progress of the formation and sharpening of this cutting edge.

There are many such devices available for sale. But if there is a desire, then a similar machine can be made independently, using materials that may be found in a workshop or garage. Yes, if you buy what you need, it will be quite inexpensive. An example is shown step by step in the table below.

IllustrationBrief description of the operation performed
The entire structure of the machine, all its parts and components will be attached in one way or another to the base - the bed (frame).
A profile pipe with a square section of 20×20 mm is well suited for its manufacture...
...with a wall thickness of 2 mm.
As will be clear later, there are no strict proportions of sizes - they are based on considerations of common sense, the strength of the structure being created, and the availability of certain materials.
Blanks for the frame are cut from a profile pipe using a grinder: two pieces 250 mm long, and two more - 130 mm.
In this example, the master will adjust the joining sides of the frame at an angle of 45 degrees. This requires a precise cut, so it is best to do it using a cutting machine.
If it is not there, nothing prevents you from making the frame simpler, that is, placing its sides end-to-end. Then, instead of 130 mm, the small parts will be only 90 mm, since they will fit between the large ones.
This will not affect the functionality of the sharpening machine in any way - the only thing is that there will be some loss of aesthetics.
This is the frame we got after preparing the parts.
The cut edges can be slightly adjusted, deburred, and a small chamfer for the weld seam can be cleaned.
Then the frame is assembled on one side and welded along short vertical joints with a continuous seam.
The seams are cleaned of slag and sanded with a grinder.
Welded frame corner after cleaning.
You can, of course, immediately boil it on both sides, but the master simply decided to supplement the frame with height-adjustable legs and stands.
The operation is optional - it is quite acceptable to install the machine simply with the frame on a flat surface. But with stands, of course, it’s more interesting.
This adjustable leg with a nut is easy to find in any furniture hardware store.
The nuts will just be welded into the corners of the frame.
Holes are drilled in the corners into which the nuts will be placed before they are scalded.
The nuts are inserted into the holes - this operation is carried out at all four corners of the frame.
Now on one side of the frame (on its small side) you need to weld nuts into which the vertical stand of the machine will be screwed.
To do this, at an equal distance from the corners, initially thin (3÷4 mm)…
- and then the upper wall of the frame is drilled with a drill of 10 mm diameter.
What is important here is stability, the stability of the assembly’s fastening, that is, you can’t get away with just a few turns of thread. Therefore, extended M8 nuts will be welded into the holes made.
It is advisable to first machine their lower edge under the cylinder so that it fits tightly into the drilled holes.
In fact, only one such socket is required to install the machine. But it is better to provide two symmetrical ones - who knows, perhaps in some cases it will be more convenient for the user to move the stand to a different position. This will take no more than a couple of minutes.
After this, all the nuts are scalded.
When tacking, you must ensure that the nuts do not move and are level. To do this, they can be held with a temporarily screwed-in long pin, controlling its position perpendicular to the plane of the frame.
In addition, this measure reliably protects the thread of the nut from splashes of metal.
Here's what happened: on the top side of the frame there are two welded nuts for the struts...
...from the bottom there are four welded nuts in the corners for screwing in the adjustable supports.
By the way, if the craftsman has at his disposal threaded rivets of the required diameter (M6 for the supports, and M8 for the stand), then you can get by with them, that is, avoid the operation of welding the nuts.
The next step is to make a shelf on which the cutting tools will be fixed with a pressure plate.
It can be made from a thick steel plate. But the master decided to give it a slight reverse slope, so he cuts it out from a corner with a 63 mm shelf.
The length of the part is the width of the frame, that is, 130 mm.
First, the required piece of corner is cut off.
Then it is clamped in a vice to cut one shelf evenly with a grinder.
This is how this platform will be welded to the frame.
After welding, the seam is thoroughly cleaned.
Knives and other cutting tools will be fixed to this area with a pressure plate. And for this you need to prepare two holes with M8 threads.
It is advisable to space them wider so that you can, for example, clamp planer knives and other similar cutting parts between them.
First, holes are drilled with a small diameter drill - 3 or 4 mm.
Then - with a drill for M8 thread, that is, with a diameter of 6.7 mm.
After this, the thread is cut with a tap.
The next operation is the manufacture of the pressure plate.
For it, it is better to take thick, 3÷4 mm, stainless steel. It is less susceptible to deformation than conventional carbon steel.
The size of the plate must correspond to the dimensions of the supporting platform.
The edge that will face the cutting edge of the tool is ground beveled to prevent it from being touched by the abrasive during sharpening.
Next, two holes are drilled on the plate for M8 screws - strictly aligned along the axes with the threaded holes in the support pad.
These screw holes can be modified to be countersunk.
The frame is completely ready, and after cleaning and degreasing it can be coated with paint from an aerosol can.
While the paint dries, you can work on other components and parts of the machine.
A steel rod with a diameter of 8 mm will be used for the stand and working rod of the machine.
First you need to clean it thoroughly - polish it with sandpaper. The master suggested this option - with clamping the rod into the drill chuck and holding the paper in your hand.
Let's be honest - it's not a completely safe way.
Rod after polishing.
It is divided into two sections - one 450÷500 mm long, the second - 250÷300 mm.
An M8 thread is cut from one end of each rod.
On a short rod there is a threaded section approximately 20 mm long - this is for screwing into the welded nut of the frame.
On a long rod there is a thread 40÷50 mm long. It is necessary for screwing the handle.
The next step is to make clamps that will hold the abrasive bar on the rod. They are made from extended M10 nuts.
First, you need to use a core to mark the center of the through hole, with a distance of 12 mm from the edge.
Then, very carefully, strictly perpendicular to the nut axis, a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled.
You need to cut a quarter off the other edge of the nut. This is done with a hacksaw for metal in two steps.
First, a transverse cut is made to the center...
...and then - longitudinal.
You need to prepare two of these nuts.
Short M10 locking bolts are screwed into the nuts - and the clamps are ready.
This is what they will look like.
After this, the clamps are put on the bar. Between them, a sharpening stone is placed in the cut-out quarters, and this entire assembly is secured with clamping bolts.
That's it, the rod is assembled, you can move on to the next unit of the machine.
There should be a unit on the rack that provides an upper point of support for the rod. In this case, the translational movement of the rod back and forth, and a degree of freedom left and right, must be ensured. In a word, this is a kind of hinge, the height of which on the stand will precisely set the sharpening angle of the cutting edge.
This unit will again be manufactured on the basis of an extended M10 nut.
To begin with, a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled in it - exactly the same as on the nuts that were used for the clamps.
Then comes a rather complicated operation.
It is necessary to first drill a hole with a diameter of 6.7 mm through the head of the M10 bolt, and then cut an M8 thread in it.
The bolt itself will be screwed into the nut, and the ring from the anchor will be screwed into the hole. This ring will act as a hinge.
This is what the unit looks like assembled.
From the side of the through hole, an M10 bolt is screwed into the nut, with which the unit will be fixed to the vertical rack.
It must be said that such a hinge in the “light version” is not the most successful, and is justified only by the availability of parts. But the working rod produces quite a significant amount of play, which can affect the accuracy of maintaining a single sharpening angle along the entire cutting edge of the knife.
A more perfect solution would be to use a ready-made fish-eye joint - such parts are available in a large assortment in online stores, and their cost is not so high.
It is probably quite possible to do without the complicated operation of drilling a hole in the head of the bolt and then cutting the thread - if you are lucky enough to purchase a hinge with a suitable threaded part. Then for the connection it will be possible to get by with a short hairpin.
But for now we are considering it as the master suggested.
All parts are ready - you can proceed to assembling the machine.
Support legs are screwed to the bottom of the frame.
Their height is immediately adjusted so that the machine stands stable - on all four points.
The vertical stand is screwed in.
A hinge assembly is placed on the stand and secured at a certain height with a clamping bolt.
A pressure plate is placed on the support platform. Two screws are attached that will secure the cutting tool in this clamp.
All that remains is to thread the free end of the working rod into the hinge ring - and we can assume that the machine is ready.
The master decided to immediately try it at work.
To begin with, sharpen this knife with a completely “dead” cutting edge.
The knife is placed between the support platform and the pressure plate. The cutting edge is approximately parallel to the short side of the bed.
Fixation is carried out by tightening two screws.
The working rod is inserted into the hinge.
The hinge itself is adjusted in height to ensure the required sharpening angle.
The sharpening process begins - first with the first, large block. As you work, you can observe how a uniform cutting edge is formed along the entire length of the blade.
Then the block can be replaced with another one, with a fine abrasive, to bring the sharpening to the maximum sharpness of the cutting edge.
The result of the work is first visual...
...and now with a demonstration of the degree of sharpening of the cutting edge.
A loose sheet of paper can be easily cut into strips.
By changing the height of the hinge unit, you can sharpen the plane iron in the same way...
...or even an ax blade.
If it is temporarily not needed, the machine itself can be easily disassembled by removing the bar and unscrewing the stand. In this form, it will take up very little space in the closet or on the shelf.

It makes sense to add a few more touches.

  • Many factory-made models are equipped with a scale on which the required sharpening angle of the cutting edge is set. It’s not difficult to come up with a similar device yourself, for example, like the one shown in the illustration. A plate perpendicular to the plane of the supporting platform, and a removable ruler with a protractor screwed to it.

After clamping the knife in the clamp, it is enough to apply a ruler to the cutting edge and to the hinge point, align the central mark of the protractor with the platinum, and take the angle readings using the same platinum, counting it from 90 degrees.

Important - the full sharpening angle is made up of the angles on both sides of the blade. That is, if an angle of 30 is required°, then sharpening on one side should be carried out at an angle of 15°.

They do it differently - instead of a protractor, you can fix a sector on which signed marks have been made in advance, for example, “ kitchen knife", "table knife", "chisel", " ", etc. That is, it will be enough to select the height of the hinge so that the bar coincides with the applied mark.

Another option is marks on the vertical post. True, in this case, uniformity in the placement of knives in the clamp is required - so that the cutting edge always protrudes at the same distance from the edge. Not quite convenient.

And the simplest option is to make several templates from thick cardboard or thin plywood, labeling them which cutting tool this corner is intended for.

In a word, by showing intelligence it is not difficult to significantly simplify bringing the machine into the desired working position.

  • You can also make a note about fastening the bars. If they are supposed to be changed during sharpening, then they must have the same thickness, otherwise the angle will change. Many masters advise other approaches. Instead of bars, they have several steel plates of the same size prepared. Abrasive paper is glued to the plates. The two sides are already two different levels of grain. That is, you can prepare a kit for all stages of sharpening: from rough shaping of the cutting edge to polishing it.

Another one interesting idea in this regard - not a plate, but a section of a profile square pipe 20x20 mm. The four sides are four different abrasives. As you work, just turn it over to the right side...

  • One more nuance: it doesn’t hurt to ensure your safety at work. It will be very unpleasant if, during a forward movement, your hand falls off - and carefully with your fingers along the cutting edge. So some kind of protective guard will not hurt here, which you can come up with to your taste.

A home-made tool sharpening machine will certainly be very useful in any household.

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We can say that in this article we have only scratched the surface of the topic of homemade machines and devices. We will be glad if readers send their wishes: whichever tool they would like to see in detail - we will try to satisfy their requests. And it’s even better if one of the amateur craftsmen shares their secrets on the pages of our portal. Published reviews from visitors are required to be paid.

Order in the house depends not only on whether every thing is in its place. Every home needs periodic maintenance. If every mechanism in the house works like a clock, then we can say that the owner is fully fulfilling his duties. To maintain order, you cannot do without a workshop and tools. Some of them you can make yourself. The article will talk about the process of assembling tools that will allow you to equip your workshop.

What you can collect with your own hands

With proper skill, you can assemble almost any machine that is needed for processing wood or metal. They will differ from the factory ones in the assembly method, as well as in dimensions. Most often, large units are not required for home use. There is no problem in building your own milling machine, with which you can beautifully design various slats. Another necessary machine that can be assembled at home is a drilling machine. You can’t do without it if there is a need to drill precise holes in small workpieces. In some cases, assembling a machine involves making a holder for a hand tool, in others it can be assembled from scratch using motors from other devices.

Before you begin assembling any products for your home workshop, you need to clearly define what tasks are assigned to the workshop and what scope of work will be performed. On the one hand, this will allow you to decide what machines will be needed, and on the other hand, it will make it possible to find out whether the available space is enough or whether the workshop needs to be located in another room. It’s good if it’s a separate room, because the noise from working machines can irritate the residents. The easiest way to build a workshop is in a private house, where you can use a basement or garage. A good craftsman has everything organized and in its place, so it is important to take care of practical shelving.

Storage items

Almost any surface in a home workshop can be used to store tools. Based on the location of organizers, the following types can be distinguished:

  • wall shelves;
  • racks;
  • shields;
  • floor organizers;
  • ceiling shelves.

They can all be located in one workshop, which will make it possible to significantly expand total area premises.

Wall shelves

This home workshop design is the most common and frequently used. Building wall shelves is not difficult. The first step is to determine the wall where their placement will be most practical. For example, it could be a wall near which it would be impossible to place a shelving unit. You should not place a wall-mounted shelf in the workshop where you plan to build a shield for hanging hand tools. In some cases, a wall shelf can be placed right under the ceiling. Since shelves in a home workshop are designed to store heavy objects, and not soft toys, the structural strength should be higher than those used at home. For assembly you will need:

  • corner 40×20 mm;
  • board or chipboard;
  • Bulgarian;
  • welding machine;
  • roulette;
  • marking tool.

The first step is to draw up a sketch-drawing indicating the exact dimensions of the structure for the workshop, which are determined based on the free space on the wall. The sketch also indicates the number of tiers that one shelf will have. The next step is to prepare the corner pieces for assembling the frame. A shelf for a home workshop in which the ends of the racks will be cut at 45 degrees will look neater. This can be achieved using a square or a special holder for an angle grinder. The first step is to assemble the side faces of the workshop shelf, which can be represented by rectangles or squares. It all depends on the chosen shape of the shelf.

The elements must be absolutely identical so that the design of the shelf for the home workshop is without distortion. After this, the sidewalls are connected to each other by four horizontal crossbars. In this case, the corner must be placed in such a way that the part with a length of 20 mm is at the bottom. It will serve as a support for the board. There is no need to rush to the workshop when welding the shelf frame. It’s worth starting with tacks so that the structure doesn’t move, and then weld it with a solid seam. An excellent assistant when assembling the frame will be corner clamps, which will keep the angle straight.

When the frame is ready, you need to determine how it will be attached to the wall in your home workshop. This can be done by drilling holes in the corner or welding special ears. The first option is more reliable. Next, the seams of the structure are cleaned in the workshop and the metal base is painted to prevent corrosion damage. The last step is to cut out wooden stands that are placed inside. The shelf is fixed in place in the workshop and is ready for use.

Shelving

Workshop shelving can be assembled in several ways. It all depends on the material used, and this could be:

  • metal;
  • wood.

Each of these materials is practical in its own way. At the right approach Wood can withstand significant pressure and weight, but the dimensions of such a rack in the workshop will be larger than that of a similar one made of metal. Assembling the entire structure into a home workshop begins with a drawing. In this case, it is necessary to correctly determine the depth of the rack. A comfortable depth is considered to be such that it is possible to reach the edge of the shelf in the workshop by simply extending your arm. Typically, this size does not exceed 50 cm. If the shelving in the workshop will have a ceiling height, then it would be appropriate to have a small stepladder that will allow you to safely remove the necessary tools from the upper shelves.

Note! On sale you can find ready-made shelving for the workshop that has a modular design.

This means that the number of shelves can be varied depending on needs. Often their purchase is cheaper if you take into account not only the cost of materials for self-assembly, but also the time that will be spent on this.

The number and height of shelves in a home workshop are determined by what will be stored on them. Each shelf can have its own purpose. For example, on the lower ones you can place devices or workpieces with a large weight. If it is a power tool, then it makes sense to make the height higher than the highest element that will be stored on the shelf. The assembly principle is similar to that used for wall shelves in the workshop. In this case, it is better to use a corner with larger dimensions for the racks so that the strength is greater. At the same time, it is important to correctly calculate the width of the rack for a home workshop, so that when using corners with smaller dimensions for shelves, they do not sag.

Shields

Shields are one of the most convenient items you can use in your home workshop. The advantage over other storage methods is that each element has its own place and is in plain sight. The only disadvantage of such a system is the inefficient use of space. Compared to shelves, more of it is required, and fewer tools fit. This is why shields are best suited for storing the tools that are used most often. The advantage of shields for the workshop can be considered their certain versatility. On the shield you can place not only hooks for hanging, but also various small drawers for storage.

There are ready-made shields for sale for the workshop, based on which you can assemble your own version. For this you can use:

  • sheet metal;
  • plywood.

The assembly principle in each of these cases is similar, only the way of working with the material is different. If plywood was chosen as the base, then there are several ways to proceed. The first step is to mark the sheets that will be used in the home workshop. After that, they are laid out on the surface and the tool is laid out, which will hang on the shield. A fastening in the form of a self-tapping screw is screwed under each tool or it is outlined along the contour to make it easier to navigate later. Next, the sheet is fixed to the wall using self-tapping screws. For fastening, it is better to use bolts with hexagon heads and clamp the sheets through washers.

There is another version of the shield for the home workshop, which uses hooks instead of screws. This design can be considered more universal, since its configuration can be changed depending on needs. The best solution will purchase in advance the metal hooks that are used for shields in workshops. Depending on the distance at which the fixing tendrils are located on the hooks, the sheet is marked. Holes are drilled at the marked points. The shield is fixed on the wall in the home workshop at a short distance from the wall so that you can freely remove and put the hooks in their place.

The metal shield is assembled according to the model of the second wooden version. In this case, the work also comes down to drilling holes at the indicated points. In this case, it is better to use metal with a wall thickness of 0.8 mm. The weight of the tool can cause the metal to bend. There are several ways to solve the problem. One of them is to install additional spacers in the form of corners on the back side of the rack. You can also assemble several separate smaller panels and install them side by side.

Ceiling shelves

Certain areas in home workshops are practically not used, or the ceiling height exceeds 2.5 meters, which will allow free placement of storage items on the ceiling. The easiest and most convenient way is to secure containers in which you can put small things. This is quite easy to do. To implement the entire project in the workshop, you will need to make wooden boxes of any size. The easiest way would be to purchase plastic containers that are perfect for these purposes. In addition to plastic containers, you will need metal ones I-beams. If these are not available, then a U-shaped profile can be used for the workshop. As a last resort, you can remove one wall from a square pipe to achieve the desired result.

Plastic containers for the home workshop have special edges along the edges, which can be used for fixing. Therefore, it is enough to simply attach the prepared profile to the ceiling in the workshop at such a distance that the containers fit between them. This design is not suitable for storing heavy objects, but a lot of material or tools that are rarely used can be placed there, freeing up space on shelves and racks.

Note! Floor organizers for the workshop can be represented by ordinary boxes, which will have inserts divided into a certain number of cells. It is convenient to store fasteners in such inserts. But if there are enough shelves and racks in the workshop, floor organizers will not be needed.

Crafting table

This design is essential for any home workshop. It is on the workbench that all the magic of repairing and constructing any products happens. It is better to make a workbench for a workshop universal, since it will require processing not only wood, but also metal, but if the workshop area allows, then you can make two separate workbenches, which will be more convenient, since wood requires the most careful handling, and metal often requires force. The process of making a wooden workbench for a home workshop will be described in detail in several videos below. It is worth noting right away that to assemble such a structure for a home workshop, you will need some skill in working with power tools. The finished workshop workbench will support a variety of mounting systems.

A simpler, but no less functional design for a home workshop can be assembled from metal. At the same time, it is easier to build additional holders for shelves and drawers on it. Above is a drawing that can be taken as a basis. Dimensions are adjusted depending on how much space is available in the workshop. The height of a workbench for a home workshop is selected individually, but most often 80 cm is enough, which allows you to work with objects at waist level. It is better if the workbench is securely fixed to the floor. It is also worth setting it according to level. If wood processing is planned on a metal workbench in the workshop, then a special carpentry vice is additionally mounted where it will be convenient. You can use a portable version of the vice, which is fixed with clamping clamps.

Advice! Great option there will be production wooden table top to the home workshop, but metal can damage it.

To protect the wooden surface of the workbench, a metal sheet can be laid on top through an OSB pad. The thickness of the metal that will be used as an overlay should not be less than 1 mm.

Workshop machines

It will be described below general principle assembling machines for the workshop, which can be taken as a basis, and assembly can be done from available materials.

Wood and metal lathe

It is worth saying right away that on such a lathe in a home workshop it will be possible to process only small metal workpieces. An important part of the machine for the workshop, which will ensure stability of processing, is the bed. You can make it yourself or use a factory one. For self-made you can use a profiled pipe or a strong corner. The two elements are placed at a suitable distance and securely secured to each other by transverse elements. Examples of machine designs for a home workshop are visible in the photos above and below.

As a motor that will rotate the part, you can use the unit from the old washing machine, pump or any machine. A powerful drill chuck can be used as a tailstock. In this case, it will be possible to insert a cone or drill into it, if required during processing. The headstock can be purchased factory-made or made according to the model in the photo.

In this case, a metal axle will be required, it is better if it is made of hardened steel. You need two holders with bearings for the axle. On one side, a pulley is fixed, and on the other, a chuck into which the workpiece will be clamped. The engine on such a workshop machine is installed next to the headstock, and the force is transmitted through a belt. The speed can be varied by using a frequency module or by moving the belt over the pulley. You will also need a support element, which is made according to the schematic drawing below.

Video about self-assembly wood lathe is below.

Milling machine

A milling machine for a home workshop is also quite easy to assemble. One option is to use a ready-made hand router, which is indispensable for an owner who likes to make something out of wood in his workshop.

For a manual machine, you can make a special workbench for your home workshop. The photo shows an example of such a table. At its core, it is a small table in which there is a hole for a cutter and a mount for the router itself. If you wish, you can do this in the workshop and on a ready-made workbench. It is important to choose the most comfortable spot for fixing the router. During fastening, it is necessary to correctly calculate the maximum overhang of the cutter. When working this way, you will need to lift the factory support completely on a hand router. Switching on and off can be done via an extension cord with a switch. The disadvantage of this method is the need to manually adjust the speed directly on the router itself. There is a video about a homemade milling machine below.

Advice! If you have an engine of the required power and a frequency converter, you can build a stationary milling machine in the workshop.

To do this, the motor is attached to the bottom of the table. A chuck for a cutter is mounted on the motor shaft. The connection is made through a frequency converter, which will vary the speed.

Drilling machine

A drill can be used as a drilling machine in the workshop. But for this it needs to be fixed correctly. This can be done using a holder, which can be stationary for the workshop or portable. There are many various options assembly of such a drill holder for the workshop. One of them is shown in the video below. Assembly will require materials that are within walking distance in every hardware store.

A circular saw

A stationary circular saw for a workshop can be made in a similar way as a holder for a hand router. It is enough to make a slot in the countertop for the slab sheet and mount it when required. The only drawback of this solution is the reduction in cutting depth. This can be corrected by installing it on a metal tabletop that is smaller in thickness. A video of the assembly of this design is below.

Summary