Correct laying of solid boards. Master class: laying solid boards Laying solid boards on

Solid wood flooring lasts for decades, and that's a fact. The material is warm, highly aesthetic and cozy. Modern technology styling solid board significantly different from older installation methods. Read more below.

Solid wood consists of long planks made of solid wood of valuable species: oak, beech, larch, cherry, walnut. Large manufacturers use especially hard and exotic types - teak, bamboo, jatoba, zebrawood, merbau, etc. Sizes vary:

• Thickness of solid board (depending on the scope of application) – 9-26 mm;
• Product width – from 100 to 220 mm;
• Length – from 300 to 1500 mm.

Along the perimeter of the planks there is a tongue-and-groove lock (“tenon and groove”), which allows you to assemble the array into a single, monolithic covering. Special “grooves” are cut along the reverse side to compensate for internal stresses and prevent deformation.

The surface can be clean or factory-treated with oil, varnish or oil-wax. In the first case, after installation, a little additional sanding will be required and protective covering(preferably based on fat-containing mixtures, since the varnish film may crack due to changes in temperature and humidity). In some collections, a chamfer is cut around the perimeter, and its depth for unprotected paint strips should be at least 2 mm.

If previously the shade of the floor covering depended on the type of wood, today this is not so important. Modern paints and varnishes allow you to get more than 5000 shades, from snowy white to deep black. Therefore, when choosing, it is better to pay attention to the hardness of the solid board, its resistance to atmospheric changes, etc.

When sorting solid floorboards, there are several categories:

The name of each manufacturer may change, but the essence is the same - 1st, 2nd or 3rd grade, and, accordingly, the presence or absence of various defects. Of course, the price also depends on this parameter. Select array is a premium coating, so it will cost several times more than products from the Rustic series.

Laying the boards

Professional laying of the array is carried out using the “running start” method or with a 1/3 offset. In this case, a double fixation method is used: with glue and hardware (special self-tapping screws with self-drilling heads, parquet “studs”).

The reason for such “reinsurance” is simple: wood is subject to deformation. That is, it changes linear dimensions depending on humidity, temperature, and time of year. Gluing and additionally tightening the planks with fasteners to the base will ensure the rigidity of the fastening and prevent the appearance of gaps and warping of the planks over time.

1. Installation work is carried out only after completion of all types of rough finishing, allowing for humidification or heating of the air. Including laying tiles, plastering or painting walls and ceilings, gluing wallpaper, etc.
2. The air temperature in the room should be between +18 °C and +25 °C, humidity – 40-60%.
3. Transportation is carried out in covered vehicles, and storage is in a dry, ventilated area.
4. The vast majority of manufactured solid boards are not intended for installation on floor heating systems.
5. Before work, it is necessary to endure the so-called acclimatization period - at least 48 hours.
6. After installation, the rooms must be maintained optimal parameters microclimate: humidity within 40-60%, and air temperature – +18- +22 ºС.

Laying solid boards on moisture-resistant plywood, for example, FC birch, is considered the most optimal.

This material is considered particularly durable, as it can withstand significant loads in various directions, and thanks to the multi-layered changes linear dimensions minimal. The minimum thickness of the plywood backing is 10 mm or more.

It is also allowed to lay solid boards on a screed without plywood or on a wooden floor. But with careful preliminary preparation. In any case, you will need the following set of installation tools and tools:

Installation of solid boards is divided into 3 stages:

Preparing the base

The subfloor should be:

If installation is planned on a mineral base, take care of preliminary waterproofing. For this, it is better to use special coating-type primers. They are applied in a continuous layer over the entire surface of the floor, extending onto the walls.

Laying the covering

Installation should begin from the solid wall of the room from left to right. The width of the plank should be applied to the base with a notched trowel. The starting board is installed with the edge groove against the wall, and spacer wedges are placed in the gap. The row is fixed with self-tapping screws or parquet studs at an angle of 45º with an interval of 25-30 cm.

If the laid wood is particularly hard, it is recommended to pre-drill holes in the planks for self-tapping screws to prevent cracking.

Having laid the first strip, the next one is attached to it using profile tongue-and-groove locks, and the installation begins with the trimmed fragment. If necessary, the planks must be carefully tapped or tightened with a mounting bracket.

The last row is cut in such a way as to leave a technological gap of 8-12 mm between the coating and the wall. And the width of the slats should not be less than 5-10 cm.

You can walk on the finished solid floor 24-72 hours after completion of work. Sanding and subsequent processing is allowed after 3-7 days.

Finishing

If the coating was processed in production protective equipment, then after laying and drying the glue, it is enough to carry out the first thorough cleaning using special products for the care of wooden coverings.

After a technological break, a solid surface with a clean surface must be slightly sanded and a protective impregnation, finishing oil or oil-wax must be applied in accordance with the instructions on the package.

Applying protective oil to the array.

To ensure proper service of the coating at the entrance, place dirt-proof mats, pad furniture legs with felt pads, and install silicone mats under chairs or tables on wheels. Periodically treat the floor with special compounds containing wax and other restorative substances. This will help keep your solid wood board in perfect condition for many years to come.

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Natural wood as a floor covering will look very expensive and solid.

You can lay solid boards yourself without the help of professionals, this will save family budget and will give reason for pride to the owner of the house.

Types of boards

A solid board is understood as a finishing material made from dense wood - beech, oak, ash and others. Solid wood is similar to a regular floorboard used for subflooring, and differs from it in the hardness of the wood, texture pattern and thickness. That's why batten has two to three times greater rigidity and is used as a base. Whereas solid parquet boards are used only for finishing.

Manufacturers apply different divisions into types applied to solid boards. Some divide it according to the method of cutting logs or blanks. Others divide by type of wood. Third in color and texture.

When choosing a solid board, focus on the following parameters:

• Breed. Classic species - beech, hornbeam, maple, oak and ash are highly durable and therefore last a long time. If the wood species is different, then its performance qualities are unknown.
• Color. When choosing a board, determine the desired color in advance. This will allow you to reduce your search time and choose what you have in mind.
• Texture. Before buying a board, find photos on the Internet of the texture of classic rocks used to make solid boards. Dishonest sellers sell impregnated boards made of pine, acacia, aspen and other soft woods that are not suitable for solid boards.
• Presence of chamfer. Some boards have a milled chamfer along the entire outer perimeter. This treatment allows you to highlight the contours of each board and hide the cracks when the floor dries out too much.

Pros and cons of solid wood flooring

• simple installation technology;
• lower requirements for the base than when laying parquet, laminate or cork;
• environmental friendliness - floors made of natural wood do not emit harmful substances;
• service life is twice as long as that of parquet boards, parquet or laminate.

• the price is 30 percent higher than the cost of parquet boards and 80-100 percent more expensive than laminate;
• sensitivity to water.

The pros and cons of solid wood flooring come from the strengths and weaknesses the wood from which they are made. Abrasion resistance is 2-3 times less than that of a laminate coating.

The use of high-strength acrylic and polyurethane varnishes extends service life, but makes it difficult to mill the surface in order to smooth out irregularities resulting from use. At high humidity, it absorbs water, which leads to swelling and swelling of the coating. After drying, it returns to normal.

To increase the moisture resistance of the board, treat the boards with water-repellent impregnations.

Floor marking

For any option of laying the array, the markings are the same. If the board will be laid in a parquet pattern or diagonally, then start marking from the middle of the room. If the board will be located along the room, start marking and laying from the corner farthest from the door, located opposite the window.

If you start marking and laying from other angles, the effect of a distorted floor pattern may occur when, when looking at the room, it will seem that the boards are lying askew.

If the wall with windows is not parallel to the opposite one, then marking and laying must begin from the corner furthest from the front door window wall. When laying the array in rooms with a number of corners other than four, or a non-rectangular shape, start marking from the front door and lead it perpendicular to the wall with front door. Measure the width of the room and divide by the width of the board, this will be the number of whole rows.

Each row should be offset relative to the other by half the length of the board.

Failure to follow these rules will distort the design and weaken the floor. This is especially important when installing a floating floor.

Options for laying solid boards

How to lay solid boards depends on the type of base. One installation option is used for a concrete floor, and another for a wooden floor. Each method differs in the method of attaching the board and the preliminary steps carried out before installation.

On the concrete floor

Floating installation

It requires a perfectly even base, because the floor is secured only with a tongue-and-groove lock. This installation is used in rooms where high humidity is excluded, because when they swell, the boards will displace each other, the floor will swell, and some elements will not return to place after drying, because they do not have a rigid connection.

It is not advisable to use a floating floor in a room with heavy furniture. When moving furniture, floor boards may be torn out, damaging the lock, and the damaged boards or entire covering will need to be replaced.

The best base for such installation is a liquid floor. Perfect evenness will eliminate the unstable position of the boards, so the coating will lie motionless, without vibration.

To pour a liquid floor, clean the concrete from looseness and dirt, putty it, checking the height differences in level. A difference of more than 2 mm per 3 meters indicates that another screed will be required to fill the liquid floor.

After the putty has dried, vacuum the concrete and pour the liquid floor. The floor polymerization time is 2-5 days, depending on the brand and indicated on the can or bag.

After the floor has settled, mark it, and then proceed with installation. Bring the boards into the room and let them sit for 3-4 days. Depending on the shape of the room, lay out the array from the center or one of the far corners. Having laid one board, place another on it with a shift of half the length.

Insert the boards from the side of the groove, this will allow you to finish them off using wooden block and a hammer. Press the laid floor with your knee, place the block against the end side of the inserted board, and gently hit the block with a hammer to put the board in place. As the board sits in place, move the block towards the edges.

Lay the last three rows after you have measured and cut the boards of the last row. First, lay the last row, then insert the boards of the penultimate row by 1-2 mm and raise them by 5-7 cm. Insert the boards of the third row into the floor by 1-2 mm and raise them so that the tongue-and-groove lock of the boards of the second and the third row stuck by 1-2 mm. After this, gently press them down so that the boards fall into place.

If you correctly calculated and cut the boards of the last row, the boards will fit well. If the width of the last row is less than required, there will be a gap between the board and the wall, which you will cover with a plinth or fillet. If the board is wider, then it will not be possible to assemble 1-2 rows. You'll have to take them apart and trim the board of the first row.

Laying solid boards in a floating manner reduces the time and cost of work, and is used for rooms with low traffic. Heavy furniture and a large number of people, as well as high humidity, can damage this coating.

On glue

The preparatory work for laying with glue is the same as for laying a floating floor. Because for a high-quality adhesive connection, tight pressure is necessary over the entire area of ​​​​the elements being glued. Therefore, it is advisable to fill the floor with liquid.

Laying a solid board on a screed without plywood, not filled with liquid flooring, will not allow the elements to be properly glued.

After preparing the base and applying markings to the floor, it is necessary to prime it. When using dry adhesives diluted with water, to prepare the soil, add twice as much water as is written in the instructions for the adhesive. It is usually located on one side of the bag.

When using ready-made adhesives, add the recommended solvent at the rate of one part solvent per ten parts glue. Then paint the entire surface of the liquid floor with this primer.

The primer polymerization time is indicated on the bag or jar of glue. When the primer is completely dry, bring 4-5 boards into the room and apply glue to the place where they will be installed. After this, apply glue to the back surface of the boards. Do not coat the tongue-and-groove lock with glue, otherwise it will be difficult to disassemble the solid floor for repairs.

Video - laying solid boards on a concrete floor (two-component adhesive Uzin MK 92 S):

Dry the glue for 5-15 minutes (depending on the specific brand - indicated in the instructions for use), then put the board in place. Press it in the middle with your hands for 5-10 seconds, then press it in the same way, moving towards the edges. Then install the adjacent board in the same way. Press it only after the comb has completely entered the groove.

After installing 4-5 boards, tap them with a rubber hammer, this will improve the strength of the adhesive joint. The outer rows are assembled in the same way as when laying a floating floor, the difference is that they are installed with glue.

Laying on a wooden floor

This installation is used to replace wooden floors covered with floorboards, plywood or particle board (chipboard). After removing the covering from the floor, inspect the joists. Repair or replace all areas covered with mold, blackness, or cracks. It is better to do this while renovating the floor than to disassemble it after a year or two.

Having prepared the logs, check their height using a level. A deviation of more than 5 mm per two meters is unacceptable. To eliminate this defect, use inserts made of plywood or fibreboard (fibreboard). They are made 5-10 cm long, the distance between adjacent inserts is 5 cm. The purpose of this work is to create a flat horizontal surface.

Having leveled the surface of the joists, lay plywood on them. The thickness depends on the distance between the lags:

• 40-50 cm – 25 mm;
• 50-60 cm – 30 mm;
• 60-70 cm – 35 mm;
• 70-85 cm – 45 mm (it is possible to use two sheets of 20 and 30 mm, laid one on top of the other and secured separately).

After laying the plywood, check the surface using a level. If differences in height greater than 2 mm per 2 m are found, remove all rises using an oscillating or belt sander. Do not install floating solid wood planks if the height difference is more than 1 mm per 2 m.

When laying two layers of plywood, lay down and secure the first, sand it to even out the differences, and then lay the second layer. When laying this layer, offset the sheets by half the size in length and width. This will bind the layers of plywood together, making the backing as rigid as possible.

Mark the room. Use the same principles as for laying on concrete. Laying with glue ensures the highest reliability of the coating, therefore it is used in rooms with high humidity and high traffic.

When laying in rooms without furniture, with low traffic and humidity, it is permissible to use a floating floor, although fixing it with a stapler or screws will increase its reliability at least twice.

Ways to secure the board

Stapler

To secure, use a construction stapler; it is sold in hardware and construction stores.

Align the board with the markings, press the stapler against the bottom protruding part of the groove, and shoot the staple. Use 12-16mm brackets. Hammer the brackets along the entire length, every 10 cm. First, hammer in a bracket from one edge of the board and check the markings; adjust the board if necessary, then fasten the other edge of the board and check the markings again. After that, secure the rest of the part.

Once you have placed all the brackets, run your finger over them. The brace should feel like a medium-thick thread. If it sticks out, take a large flat-head screwdriver with a blade width of at least 1 mm, place it on the bracket and finish it off with light blows of a hammer.

Strong blows may split the bottom of the groove.

Installation with glue

The technology for laying solid boards with glue is no different from work done on a concrete base.

Fastening with a screw

With this fastening method, installation begins from the far corner of the window wall.

Place the board in place and weigh it down with something heavy. For example, place two pieces of plywood measuring 15*30 cm on the edges of the board, and place six bricks on them. This will help you drill through the board and backing, prepare a seat for the screw and secure it.

Drill the hole to a depth of 30 mm, drill diameter 2 mm. Drill at an angle of 30-40 degrees so that the bit enters the base of the ridge and goes under the board. To avoid drilling too much, measure 30 mm on the drill and wrap insulating tape above the mark, which is used for repairs and installation of electrical wiring. The mark will indicate the depth of the hole.

Compliance with these rules will ensure easy tightening and sufficient fastening strength.

Each board is secured with three screws - in the center and 20 cm from each edge of the board. After this, take a drill with a diameter of 3-4 mm, depending on the screw used, and measure 15 mm on it. Install into a drill and widen the holes to avoid splitting the ridge and damaging the board.

After this, drill the board with a drill with a diameter of 10-12 mm to a depth of 3 mm so that the screw head does not interfere with the assembly of the tongue-and-groove lock. Install and secure the remaining floor boards in the same way. Make the width of the board of the last row 0.5 cm less than necessary. This board is fixed on top at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the wall. The sequence of actions is the same as when attaching to a comb.

Processing solid boards

Preliminary processing

Solid parquet boards are processed 5-7 days after installation. The surface of the board is scraped with a hand scraper, which is a sharp scraper with a smooth working edge. The purpose of the operation is to eliminate minor differences in height and remove traces of glue or other contaminants from the floor surface.

If you can get a professional router or grinding machine for parquet, the processing time will be reduced tenfold.

You can use manual vibration grinding or tape machine. The work time, compared to manual scraping, will be reduced by 3-4 times. This work is carried out immediately before varnishing or oiling.

Materials for varnishing and protecting the floor:

1. Stains – they change the color of the texture.
2. Oil - impregnation from wax and various oils. When applied to a board, it penetrates to a depth of 2 mm and protects against moisture, fungus and drying out. Various colors can be added to the oil to give the floor the desired shade.
3. Varnish - applied in 2-4 layers. Protects the board from moisture and slows down the wear of the board by 50-80 percent. Modern parquet varnishes are colorless; to give the coating the desired shade, you can use colors for such varnishes.

Varnish can be applied over stain, but never over oil.

Oil and stain are applied with a roller, brush or spray. If it is necessary to apply several layers, apply one, let it dry completely, then another, and so on. required amount once. The varnish is applied only with a spray bottle; this will prevent hairs from a brush or hairs from a roller from appearing in the coating.

Laying solid parquet with your own hands is not as difficult as it is believed. Carry out all operations carefully, do not be lazy to double-check the markings or calculations once or twice before performing any action. Material for a solid floor is not cheap, so it would be a shame to ruin it through carelessness.

Video - laying solid oak boards:

Solid plank parquet can last for decades. This floor will last more than half a century, and with careful use, 100 years. The cost of a mistake during installation is enormous, so it is better to trust it to parquet specialists. Do you want to learn or just know all the intricacies of laying an array? Let's talk!

Laying solid boards. 5 requirements for the foundation

1. Evenness. The clearance between the base and the reference level should not exceed 2 mm. If necessary, sand the base or level it using a putty or leveling mixture. Differences can also be eliminated using plywood, which is mounted on the base and then sanded.
2. Strength. Strength characteristics reinforced concrete floor, screed or self-leveling floor must be at least 150 kg/cm² (15 mPa).
3. Humidity. Maximum permissible value for reinforced concrete panels: 4%; leveling screeds: 5%, wooden bases: 12%. It is unacceptable to measure the humidity of the screed produced during the repair process using a calendar method, without using a hygrometer.
4. Stability. Maximum permissible base subsidence: 1.5 mm (under a load of 200 kg). To eliminate drawdowns in wooden base, secure it with self-tapping screws or lay one or, if necessary, two layers of plywood on top of the base.
5. Purity. The base must be free of dust, dirt, grease and loose particles. If there are layers of used primer, glue or bitumen on the base, they must be completely removed.

How to lay a solid board using the glue method using plywood: step-by-step instructions

Before starting installation, it is imperative to carry out a thorough quality check of the entire delivered batch of solid boards. Do not install planks with defects or damage. Claims regarding the quality of solid wood boards must be made before installation begins.

1. For residential premises, use moisture-resistant birch plywood of the “FK” brand as a subfloor. The thickness of the plywood must be at least 2/3 of the thickness of the board laid on it (minimum thickness - 10 mm). Before starting installation, cut the plywood sheets into at least four pieces. Ensure that there is a technological (expansion) gap between the sheets of plywood, as well as in the areas where it adjoins the walls or tiles (the recommended gap size is 10–15 mm). Lay plywood perpendicular to the direction of laying solid boards. Next, apply glue to the base with a notched trowel and place the plywood on top, securing it to the base with a dowel nail. After the glue has dried, sand the plywood so that its surface does not deviate from flatness by more than 2.0 mm.

2. Start laying solid boards from the solid wall of the room, from left to right, placing the first board with the edge groove towards the wall. The boards are connected to each other using tongue-and-groove profile joints that do not require gluing together. Apply the glue directly onto the plywood base with a notched trowel. Be sure to fasten each plank to the plywood using self-tapping screws (3x35–45 mm), twisting them into the outer corner of the tongue at an angle of 45 and maintaining intervals of 25–30 cm. To avoid chips and cracks, the board is made of especially hard wood must be pre-drilled in the fastening area.

Attention! For the most successful work, it is recommended to pre-lay solid boards without using glue. Unlike the "floating" method, glue method installation does not allow you to correct “problem” areas after the glue has dried.

3. Ensure a sufficient width of the technological gap between the perimeter of the laid boards and the wall (or tiles). The optimal and uniform gap size (10–15 mm) must be adjusted using wedges, which are subsequently removed.

4. Start laying the second row with the piece left over from cutting the board that was laid last in the first row. In this case, the distance between the end connections of adjacent rows of boards should not be less than 500 mm; for short boards (less than 1200 mm), the length of the overlap zone should be at least 300 mm.

5. If there is a gap or ledge between the boards being joined, make sure that the groove of the previous row of boards is clean. To improve the joint, carefully rub the boards with profile joints against each other several times. If necessary, carefully join the boards together using a mallet and a specialized tamping block.

6. Before cutting the boards in areas where heating pipes pass, take a sheet of paper (or cardboard) and place it on the place where the pipes pass, marking the proposed holes. Then place the template on the board and use it to mark the location of the holes on the board. Next, cut holes in the board, the diameter of which is 5–10 mm larger than the actual diameter of the pipes, and then saw the board into two halves so that the cut goes through the center of the holes. Next, mount the boards in the required area. Hide the resulting technological gap along the radius of the pipes with a decorative ring of a suitable diameter.

7. While laying the last row, measure the required width of the last row at several points (taking into account the technological gap), mark the cutting line and cut the boards to the appropriate size. Having laid the boards, connect them tightly, using, if necessary, a tamping block and a mounting angle.

8. Close the technological gap along the walls with a plinth. At the junction with the tile, the gap should be closed with a threshold, or filled with a cork or sealing elastic compound.
The basis for laying solid boards is most often cement-sand screed or a wooden “black” floor laid on joists..

Laying parquet has its own specifics - especially if we're talking about about solid wood or engineered wood. We recommend entrusting this work only to parquet specialists. For example, you can order turnkey parquet installation from us - in the Mont Blanc Decor flooring showrooms - with a preliminary visit for measurements and further full “support” of the project! They not only know, but also love parquet :)

The floor covering is installed at the final stage of renovation. At least two months before the start of installation, all interior work that causes an increase in humidity in the room must be completed. At the time of installation, the relative air humidity should be 40–60% at a temperature of 18–24°C.

Laying solid boards on a screed without plywood, plank floors or chipboards using a floating method is suitable for small rooms, the main thing is that the base is level, strong and dry. It should also be taken into account that heavy furniture can deform the floor.

The advantages of this installation:

• high installation speed;
• the cost of laying solid boards (no need to buy glue and other components);
• ease of installation - installation can be carried out by one person;
• the absence of rigid attachment to the base, which allows the floor to move freely during thermal compression or expansion of the wood.

For independent conduct Installation requires the following tools:

Before laying a solid board, it is necessary to assess the condition of the screed.

IMPORTANT: natural flooring requires absolutely level clean surface. All interior work must be completed before installing the board.

The basis is required check for moisture. For this purpose, there is a device that measures its performance as a percentage. Ignoring the measurement at the first stage means soon getting:

— fungus (it can easily grow in a humid environment);

- warping (under the influence of dampness, the floor can swell and deform).

The best solution is to invite a specialist. The moisture meter should show no more than 2%. There was an opinion that it was possible to do without the device. It is necessary to leave a piece of polyethylene pressed to the screed overnight. In the morning, inspect the area under it and if perspiration appears, it means the humidity is increased. German scientists, having conducted such a study, found out: in the place where the evaporation did not come out, the moisture meter showed 6%.

Test of strength will provide a guarantee for long-term use of the coating. You can conduct research yourself:

• Walk around it. It crumbles under your feet, you can feel the sand - the worst option. This screed needs to be redone.
• Inspect carefully. Visible chips and depressions must be filled with putty.
• If it is visually flawless, it is worth walking over the screed with a sharp object. An ideal coating will not leave any damage.

For laying a wooden floor, the following base indicators will be excellent: compression – 25 MPa, shear – 7 MPa. Accurate indicators will be recorded by a device - a Schmidt hammer, which calculates the shock impulse under an applied load (another name is a sclerometer).

An epoxy two-component primer will help to further strengthen the base.

In addition to strength and moisture, It is worth paying attention to how level the base is. Acceptable rate height difference - 2 mm per 2 linear meters. Deviation from the norm in a larger direction will change the geometry of the floor. A two-meter strip or building code(whatever is at hand). They need to be passed along the base and checked for tight fit of the slats to the floor. The identified recesses should be filled with putty, and the protrusions should be sanded.

ATTENTION. After graduation preparatory work debris, sand, dust should be removed. Thoroughly vacuum the surface and prime it. At the exit before laying, the screed must be smooth and clean.

Substrate

The next stage of work is laying the substrate. It compensates for minor flaws, protects against moisture penetration and creates additional sound insulation. For “floating installation” the following types of substrates are used:

• made of foamed polyethylene;
• cork;
• rubber;
• fabric.

Temperature and humidity gaps

A natural wood floor laid using a floating method is much more responsive to temperature and humidity indicators than. It is important to leave gaps around the perimeter of the room, taking into account all elements that come into contact with the board (heating pipes, doors). When expanding, the board will have room to “move.” In their absence flooring will swell. Gaps are left 10 - 15 mm per meter. With a width of 3 meters, 3 * 10 = 3 cm should be left. For ease of installation and to prevent displacement, wedges are used. They are placed over the entire contacting area. Afterwards, all the gaps will be hidden under the decorative plinth.

Screed mounting

Before installing the floor, it is necessary for the material to lie in the room for 2–3 days. It is not advisable to open the packaging. A sharp temperature fluctuation will cause the array to change. First of all, you need to cull. Do not lay boards damaged during transportation. They must be returned or replaced before the installation of solid wood boards begins.

Lay out - from the far left corner deck or diagonal method, perpendicular to the window. This technique is important technologically and aesthetically.

REFERENCE. The joining seams must be shifted at a certain pitch to strengthen the connections. For an array, the spacing should be at least 40 cm.

The first board is placed with the ridge against the wall. The next boards are inserted into the groove and tapped with a hammer. The blows should not be strong, knock only on the block. After laying three rows, spacer wedges are placed between the wall and the edge of the parquet floor. Having planted the board in the center, smoothly move, tapping, to the edges. Additionally, the dies are attached one to another with glue.

Shutdown

The last row should be laid after measuring the distance to the wall. Since walls always have a certain curvature, the values ​​will differ. Each board should be adjusted separately by longitudinal cutting until required size at the installation site (remember about expansion gaps). For the convenience of working near the wall, where there is always little space, you need to use a mounting paw. It will help press one board tightly against another.

Remove the spacer wedges and... His should be attached directly to the wall. Then it will not interfere with the free movement of the floor when narrowing or expanding.

On plywood

Necessary materials:

• grinding machine (or wheel);
• electric jigsaw;
• construction vacuum cleaner;
• primer;
• glue for solid boards;
• plywood – 10 mm;
• spatulas (including those with teeth);
• roulette;
• pencil;
• square;
• coating (varnish, wax).

Plywood – good basis for natural boards. It is attached to a screed, joists, or wooden floor. If concrete base V poor condition you need to refill it to make it even. Allowing time for shrinkage and drying self-leveling screed, sand it thoroughly. All the smallest irregularities should be eliminated. Remove dust with a construction vacuum cleaner. Coat the entire surface with epoxy primer. You should pause for complete drying.

Cut plywood sheets into rectangular pieces to cover the entire surface. Before installation, for a firm fit of the sheets, glue is applied to the screed. Next, the plywood is attached to cement base dowels.

Particular attention should be paid to the corners. It is also recommended to leave temperature gaps here: 1.5 cm around the perimeter, 2 -3 mm between the rectangles themselves.

Sand the surface, remove dust, and you can begin laying the solid wood on plywood. Before laying a solid board, the plywood is coated with two-component glue to the width of one board.

Glue

A universal adhesive consisting of polyurethane mixtures and a hardener is suitable. We recommend choosing an odorless, water- and solvent-free glue. Which does not cause allergic reactions upon contact with human skin, dries quickly and firmly holds natural wood coverings. German manufacturers adhere to such a high standard.

• During installation, you must ensure that the ridge fits into the groove, carefully tapping the board along its entire length. To increase strength, each board is secured with self-tapping screws every 25–30 cm. After installation is complete, clean the entire floor surface.
• First, the array should be driven well into the groove, and only then nailed.
• It’s realistic to buy a quality floor cheaper. You need to take an untreated board from a hardware store, carefully sand it, clean it from dust and apply varnish. When processing it yourself, you can save 25% of the cost of the same material with an already applied coating or buy it.
• For temperature gaps, it is better to insert two dies onto one board.

CAREFULLY. When installing using glue, you need to be extremely careful. If you put a lot of glue, you can ruin the floor - it will come out from above when you tap the tiles with a hammer. At first, small spots on the surface are invisible. They will be “revealed” by daylight. It is difficult to remove dried inclusions. A special cleaner will be required. It should be used while working.

• After installation is complete, the natural solid wood floor should remain undisturbed for 24 hours.
• To extend the service life, it is recommended to observe temperature and humidity conditions when operating the premises.
• When cleaning, use special care products.
• Do not flood the floor with water.
• Under computer chair put a spring mat.
• Pets (cats, dogs) running across the floor can quickly render it unusable. A durable, improved coating will protect the surface. True, the price of such products is high.

Useful video

How to lay solid wood

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