Step-by-step guide to laying paving slabs. From the pros: laying paving slabs on geotextiles with your own hands. Platform made of paving slabs slope

“Paving stones” have the largest variety of installations - these are rectangular tiles, most often their size is 100x200. most often such tiles are laid " brickwork", "column", "herringbone". These installation methods are simple enough to do yourself and this solution is perfect for paths.

Paving slabs are laid on a concrete, crushed stone or sand base. The thickness of the base and its appearance directly depend on the conditions in which the tile will be used.

But in general conditions During operation, paving slabs are best laid using generally accepted technologies.

The most important thing is to prepare the place for the tiles. It is necessary to remove all the grass by removing the top layer of soil. If the turf sprouts, you will have to remove about 20 cm of soil. Next, we plan to lay the tiles, marking their location on the path. We cover the marked areas with a base, maintaining a slope for water drainage. If installation will be carried out on clay soil, then you must first install drainage in the part of the trench where the drainage will be.

The next step is to compact the surface of the base. This can be done using a log, to which handles will be attached along the edges. To avoid deformation of the path, it is necessary to lay a geotextile fabric on the base. Here you can use 2-3 layers of any mulching material.

If a car will drive onto the tiles, then the surface of the base needs to be covered with crushed stone, about 15 cm, which will need to be compacted well and watered. Place a layer of sand on top. Now you can begin the actual laying of the tiles.

Paving slabs should be laid on the base and compacted into a sand cushion. This can be done using a vibrating plate or a massive wooden mallet. Moreover, it is necessary to monitor the level of laying of each tile and give the path the desired appearance.

After the tiles are laid, it is necessary to sprinkle the dry mixture on their surface, which will be distributed along the cracks between the tiles. Well, the final touches are to remove the remnants of the grout and pour water on the seams, it is best to do this with a watering can.

Sometimes, there are cases when there are not enough paving slabs. And all because incorrect calculations of its quantity were made. Therefore, it is necessary to take into account that the tiles will be cut and go to waste. The amount of waste directly depends on the type of tile, the size of the path, and the method of laying it. Eg, diagonal laying will require slightly fewer trimmed parts, and therefore there will be less waste than parallel installation.

When a tile splits, it often happens that the chip line is not in the place where it is needed. Therefore, it is best to cut the tiles using a grinder with a stone disc. True, during cutting there is a lot of dust, so it is best to make cuts on the paving slabs, and then chip them like glass.

If you lay paving slabs with high quality, with drainage, they will last for several decades without losing their appearance.

Before starting work, it is necessary to mark future sidewalks and determine the required elevations. If your work is carried out by specialists, and you have a plan for your improvement, then we can say that you already have everything you need. Qualified specialists will qualitatively and competently carry out markings on the ground and transfer the elevation marks of the surface of the future sidewalk to the ground.

But if you plan to carry out landscaping on our own, then in this case you must first think about everything and follow the proverb: “Measure seven times, cut once.”

Prepare pegs 50 cm long. They can be either wooden or metal. Pegs should be driven into the ground in the corners of the laying area and in places where the paving cloth and sidewalk paths turn. When all these points are marked, we move on to the actual important point- selection of elevation marks.

Elevations.

The main task of sidewalk paths and squares, in addition to the aesthetic load, is to drain rainwater from their surfaces, so the choice of elevation marks can be roughly called: drainage of water from the point “FROM” to the point “TO”

"BEFORE" is the place or places where they will be allocated rainwater. This could be: a lawn, a gutter, a ditch, etc. That is, places where rainwater will not bother anyone. Drain rainwater into urban areas sewer systems- it is forbidden.

With the point "OT" you need to think a little. It can be, for example, the maximum height of the tile surface at which the doors will close without problems, even in winter, taking into account ice, etc. It is necessary to dance in choosing this point naturally knowing the point “BEFORE”. The "FROM" point must be higher than the "TO" point. A slope of at least 1 cm in height per 1 meter of length (1:100) is considered normal. The tile canvas, after installation, whether we like it or not, undergoes deformation (that is, it bends). With high-quality installation and production of all necessary earthworks, these deformations are minimal and the specified slope guarantees the drainage of water from the paving surface.

If the condition t. "FROM" -> MINIMUM SLOPE (1:100) -> t. "TO" is met, then you can safely begin moving elevation marks to the ground. (The slope in this case must be no less than specified).

If compliance with this condition is impossible, then it is necessary to reconsider the directions of the slopes and it may be possible to organize withdrawal to other places. Sometimes removing excess soil helps. Sometimes, complexly organized rainwater drainage is broken down into simpler components, but in any case, it is imperative to maintain a minimum slope.

Preparing the base for laying paving slabs.

Underlying layers.

After marking and setting out elevation marks is over, let's move on to one of the most significant issues. Preparation of the underlying layer.

The underlying layer is loose materials in a compacted state that are located between the existing soil and the tile. This is usually: Crushed stone, Sand, Cement-sand mixture. The underlying layer serves two purposes:

Displaying elevations for specified values;

Protection of the sidewalk from soil heaving in winter time.

Structure of the underlying layer (from top to bottom):

Tile (thickness - 6 cm)

Sand (thickness - 10 cm);

Crushed stone (thickness - up to 20 cm);

Existing soil.

There are certain technologies for constructing underlying layers (from top to bottom):

Option 1. For complex cases(traffic of freight vehicles, problems with existing soils):

Cement mortar (thickness - 3 cm);

Reinforced concrete (thickness - 10-15 cm);

Option-2. For passenger cars:

Cement-sand mixture (CPS) (thickness - 3 cm);

Sand (thickness - 10 cm);

Crushed stone (thickness - 20 cm).

Option-3. For pedestrian paths:

Cement-sand mixture (CPS) (thickness - 3 cm);

Sand (thickness - 10 cm);

Crushed stone (thickness - 10 cm).

The choice of technology should be determined by the requirements that will be imposed on the tile canvas in the future, during operation. If the sidewalk path is intended for the passage of pedestrians, then there is no need for concreting according to option No. 1. These are unnecessary and unjustified costs. And vice versa, if the soils are prone to subsidence, then by arranging an underlying layer for the passage passenger cars, under option 2, you will get sidewalk problems and headaches in the future. It is advisable to entrust the choice of this or that technology to a specialist, especially since there are often combined options when several technologies are used at one facility (under sidewalk paths- option-3, for the passage of passenger vehicles - option-2, etc.). In this case, installation costs will be optimal.

It is also worth mentioning the cheapest option for installing a base for tiles. It's about about laying paving slabs only on sand. In my opinion, this option deserves attention and is quite reliable with the appropriate approach. For it the following conditions must be met:

• 1) The existing soil must be naturally compacted over many years!!!
• 2) Sand should not be allowed to wash out from under the tiles. To do this, coat all joints between borders with a solution, especially on the inside;
• 3) Rainwater drainage must be carried out in an organized manner, strictly along trays, which in turn must be installed on a solution.

If these three conditions are met, the paving slab will serve you for as long as if you follow the installation technology, but the cost of the work as a whole will be significantly less.

Let's look at the components of the underlying layer.

Both granite and limestone, fractions 20-40, are used. Where this fraction is large, i.e. elevations do not allow its use, a fraction of 5-20 is used. The use of sludge significantly reduces the cost of the underlying layer.

According to the technology, it is used to create a top leveling layer. You can use any sand, but do not contain clay particles and stones.

Cement-sand mixture.

Ratio 1:8. Mix thoroughly, preferably in a mortar mixer. Cement M500. Prepared in volume based on daily production. The unused DSP becomes unusable the next day.

The construction of the underlying layer should be done in layers of approximately 10 cm, with obligatory layer-by-layer compaction with mechanical vibrating plates, or they should be spilled with water. Experience shows that pouring is effective even with layers of greater thickness. Water also reaches places that are difficult to reach or even inaccessible for vibrating plates (various connections).

Currently paving slabs is the most popular coating for improvement and decoration of sidewalks, squares, park alleys, road surfaces and suburban areas. These tiles give city streets a beautiful, modern and well-groomed look.

To obtain a durable and high-quality coating, it is very important to follow the technology, which has a number of nuances and features. An important requirement is the slope of the paving slabs, which is necessary for the drainage of rain or melt water.

Slope of paving slabs for water drainage

When laying tiles, the surface must have a certain slope, which is created to drain water, rain or melt. It is usually expressed as a percentage. For example, a slope of 1% is 1 cm per 1 meter of coverage.

The choice of the desired slope depends on the climate and the characteristics of the surface to be covered. The most optimal generally accepted option is 1%, it is enough to drain the water, and it is convenient for moving along the path. It is important to note that the drainage capacity of tile coverings differs depending on its surface, as well as the quality of installation and sealing of joints.

The ability to drain water is less for embossed tiles than for smooth tiles. That's why the slope for water drainage with a smooth surface should be at least 2-2.2%, with a relief surface - 2.5%. The design of the slopes is created in such a way as to direct water to drainage elements, which are used as concrete storm drains or trays for water drainage.

On turns, approaches to steps and doors, that is, places with high traffic, the slopes should not be more than 3-3.5%. This slope is necessary in order to avoid falls during icy conditions in winter. In places where people rarely pass, the slopes can be 6-7%, but no more. If the slope of paving slabs for water drainage is done correctly, then moisture does not linger on the coating and does not penetrate into it, which has a positive effect on durability. Otherwise, the tile will quickly deteriorate.

To determine the elevation, you must use a level or hydraulic level. Between the two elements it is necessary to stretch a fishing line or twine. Then bring a level to the twine (parallel, without touching it) and draw the desired slope. For marking, wooden stakes are usually used, which are installed in several places. After selecting the elevation points, you can proceed to preparing the base, which also has great importance for the durability of the paving surface.

The importance of proper tile installation

To summarize, we can say with confidence that the slope of the paving slabs for water drainage plays a big role in the operation of the coating. In order to lay it correctly, it is necessary to make markings and prepare a high-quality base. It is imperative to ensure drainage so that collected water does not destroy the paving surface and does not interfere with its functioning.

If the installation work is carried out incorrectly, this will lead to irreversible consequences. At first everything will look good, but over time water will penetrate, holes will appear in the base and the paving area will settle. Therefore, in order for the work to be completed flawlessly, entrust it to professionals or strictly follow

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How to lay paving slabs yourself?

After you have decided on the tile: color, size, shape - you have checked it for strength (for example, you rode on a tank on the tiles), you can begin the first stage of installation.
This takes into account the topography of the territory, the priority of objects and future paths to them. At this stage, it is important to work in tandem with a professional to protect yourself from amateurish mistakes. If the site has a complex topography, then after filling (leveling) experts do not recommend further construction works for 2-3 months. During this period, natural shrinkage of the rocks occurs. For greater effect, you can use heavy equipment.

COUNTING THE NUMBER OF PLATES

Let's count total area allocated for paving, taking into account the curb. Up to 15% of this figure will be spent on selecting slabs according to the design, trimming and other construction nuances.

PREPARING THE BASE or What are paving slabs laid on?
Layer order:
1. Crushed stone base;
2. Geotextiles (provided that heavy loads are expected on the path);
3. Sand filling - this layer is thoroughly compacted. Its thickness should be at least 10 cm.
The three-layer base must meet the following basic requirements:

• each layer has equal bearing capacity;
• the surface must correspond to the design profile;
• the base must be frost-resistant;
• the surface of the base must be flat;
• special control - drainage system: “paving stones-base soil”.

If still at the design stage (provided that throughput systems for precipitation and melt water is less than 0.02 lit/sec per 1 m2) the issue of drainage from the coating or using drainage system. The base should be at least 10 cm thick if the soil underneath is heavy or clayey. Interesting article about the design of a bathroom in an apartment.

DRAINAGE
The thickness of the drainage layer ranges from 14 to 70 cm - it all depends on the design of the path and its class. For the bedding layer, you can use sand, fine crushed stone, graphite of fraction 0-5 mm. In a compacted state, the layer thickness can reach 5 cm. However, it should not exceed the upper limits so as not to deform under loads.

How to lay paving slabs (paving stones)? How to lay paving slabs on a slope?

FEMs are laid on the prepared bedding layer in even rows according to the template. Paving stones are laid on same height with a joint width of 3-5 mm when filling them with sand and at least 8 mm when the next time they are fixed with mortar. If the tiles are laid under a slope, then cement is added to the dry sand. After precipitation, the solution will grab the tile and prevent it from moving. When laying on concrete base, for example, for a blind area around a house, or parking lots are used specifically cement mortar. It is applied to the surface, after which the tiles are laid. Don’t forget: the concrete must “set”, so it is recommended to walk along the new path a few days after laying.

RAMMING

After the paving stones are laid, they must be compacted thoroughly. This process is carried out only on a dry surface, evenly, starting from the edges and gradually moving to the middle. Please note that the surface must be cleaned. FILLING THE JOINTS This is done immediately after compacting the paving stones: sand is applied to the joints of the slabs until the seams are completely covered. To achieve maximum density, after each application of a layer of sand it is moistened with water.

CLEANING
All that remains is to clean the laid paving stones from the remains building materials- and it is ready for use and strength testing.

Many owners of private houses are interested in how to lay paving slabs. This finishing material Now it is very popular for decorating local areas. Paving slabs allow you to create not only ordinary masonry, but also a kind of multi-colored mosaic of elements irregular shape.

The main advantages of paving slabs

Not everyone knows how to lay paving slabs correctly. It's comparative new material. However, paving slabs have already become more in demand than the well-known paving stones.

Among the main advantages of paving slabs are the following properties:

• low cost;
• simple installation technology;
• durability;
• environmental friendliness;
• resistance to aggressive influence environment;
• variety of shapes and colors;
• the ability to create bright and original landscape design elements.

To lay a path or area with paving slabs yourself, you do not need any special technical skills or knowledge, only the ability to use ordinary tools. If you follow the procedure exactly during the installation process and try a little, everything will definitely work out.

How to choose a tile

Thick tiles (more than 60 mm) can withstand weight truck with a full body. These tiles are usually in the form of small bars. This gives the cladding additional strength.

It’s not difficult to figure out how to lay paving slabs correctly. The main condition for a novice master is to choose a small area for his first experiments. Best fit garden path. It is better to choose one-color, square or rectangular tiles.

Marking the site and preparing the base

First you need to calculate the area of ​​the path or site. It is calculated according to required amount tiles You need to purchase material with a reserve of 10-15% in case of damage to the material. In order not to make mistakes when making calculations, you can draw a plan of the future site. This will make it easier to carry out the necessary calculations and calculations.

Curbs are required along the edges of the path. This will help maintain the integrity of the structure. The border should be several times thicker than the selected tile. It is necessary to lay tiles only on a properly prepared base; not only does this depend on appearance, but also the strength of the structure.

To fulfill all necessary work The following tools will be required:

• shovels - shovel and bayonet;
• grinder saw;
• spatulas;
• rule;
• building level;
• roulette;
• rubber mallet or mallet;
• twine or cord, scaffolding;
• Master OK;
• rake;
• container for preparing the mixture.

First you need to outline the location of the path or site. To do this, pegs are driven into the ground on both sides of the route. A cord or twine is tied to them. You need to walk along the marked area different directions to determine the correct marking and optimal location of the site or path. The markings can be adjusted during operation.

Drainage system

The technology for laying paving slabs with your own hands requires drainage work. On clayey, swampy soil with a high location groundwater internal drainage is required. To do this, during the excavation process, the required slope is formed, and drainage pipes for water drainage.

On dry soil, it is enough to arrange external drainage. To do this, paving slabs are laid on the path with a slope of 2 or 3° towards the curb. Some water will seep through the seams between the tiles.

Construction of the foundation

You need to dig a ditch under the foundation. The top layer of soil is removed to a depth of 20 cm. Remains of vegetation must be removed. The bottom must be leveled and compacted. If the soil is very weak, under future design A concrete screed is laid from paving slabs. This will strengthen the base and ensure the longevity of the path or area.

Then the curbs are installed. A cushion of fine-grained (10-20) crushed stone or gravel is poured between them. The bulk material must be leveled and slightly compacted.

Curbs on both sides of the path must be installed parallel. Inner space between them should accommodate the required number of tiles. In this case, it is necessary to take into account mounting clearances of 2-3 mm. Then a solution is prepared for concreting the curbs. Cement grade M300 or higher and sifted sand are taken. Proportion 1:2.

The gravel cushion at the bottom of the trench is filled with coarse wet sand, which must be leveled. The thickness of the sand cushion after compacting the sand should be at least 3-5 cm. To control from the top edge of the curb downwards, you need to measure 1.5 times the thickness of the tile.

Tiles are laid on top. If its position exceeds the desired level by 1 cm, the sand can be compacted. To do this, the finished pillow must be moistened generously and left for several hours. Pack tightly. After a day, you can begin laying the tiles. The main thing is that the concrete poured under the curbs is completely hardened.

Laying tiles on sand and crushed stone

The tiles are laid in clear, dry weather. Wind, rain, and dampness make the installation process difficult and can worsen the result, especially if the master does not yet have the necessary skills. The path is laid out in the direction away from you; you cannot stand on the sand and gravel pad while working.

Before laying paving slabs with your own hands, you need to prepare the installation mixture. For it, take dry sifted fine sand and cement in a ratio of 3:1 or a ready-made composition purchased at a building materials store.

So that the path can be dismantled later, the tiles must be laid only on sand. The dry mixture or sand is poured to a thickness of no more than 4 cm; the pillow needs to be leveled. When backfilling, you can use guides made of reinforcing rods, tubes, etc. The mixture is distributed over the working surface with a trowel or rake and leveled using a rule.

If the path is narrow, sand is poured between the curbs and leveled with a trowel. Using a level you need to create a drainage slope. While working, the master moves along the length of the path, holding a bucket of sand and tools at hand. On a wide path, the dry mixture is poured along the beacons. The height of the beacons is reduced by 1 cm every meter of the width of the future path to ensure water drainage.

You need to pour sand on top of the finished masonry and use a hard mop to grout the laid surface. Instead of sand, you can use special grouting compounds. The procedure for working with them is indicated on the packaging.

Laying tiles on a concrete base

Preparatory work for laying paving slabs on a concrete base is carried out in the same way. First, the tiles are laid on a work surface covered with sand.

To prepare the solution, use M500 cement. It must be diluted with water to the required consistency. It is better to mix the solution with an electric drill or construction mixer. Gradually add sand to the mixture of water and cement. It should be 4 times more than dry cement.

When laying on concrete, a strict sequence must be observed. The tiles are removed one by one from the sand cushion. You need to remove 4 elements of preliminary masonry at a time. The solution is applied to the vacant area. It needs to be evenly distributed. Having laid the tiles on top of the mortar, it is necessary to trim and lightly press down with a mallet. When laying, special wooden spacers are installed between the tiles to obtain the required gap. When the entire path or area has been laid out, the remaining mortar must be removed from the surface.

Some rules for laying tiles

To laid material was smooth and beautiful along the entire length of the path, it is necessary to lay out the initial row of tiles especially carefully. You need to stretch the fishing line across the path, maintaining a drainage slope towards the curb. The first tile is installed 0.5 cm from the curb. In the longitudinal direction, laying is controlled by a level.

On the path, the tiles are laid diagonally and compacted with a mallet. A gap of 2 mm should be left between the elements. The laid out row must be carefully inspected and all errors must be corrected immediately. Usually it is enough to adjust the amount of sand under protruding or sinking elements. An evenly laid initial row is the key to ensuring that the entire path will turn out neat and beautiful.

If the masonry is supposed to contain partial tiles, they should be laid out last. To correctly mark the cutting line, the tile must be attached to the installation site. A hacksaw is suitable for cutting tiles, but the work will go very slowly. Therefore, you need to cut paving slabs with a grinder. A diamond disc is installed on it. Can be used special knife. You need to wear safety glasses when working.

Sealing seams and cracks

When the installation of paving slabs is completed, it is necessary to seal small cracks. To do this, you need to prepare a cement solution with a high content liquid glass. This will give the structure resistance to aggressive environmental influences. A mixture of sand and cement or sand is poured into the assembly joints between the individual elements.

Only clean sand can be used to fill cracks and installation joints. A small amount of organic elements or salts will subsequently lead to the appearance of small flora on the paved area. Plants will spoil the appearance of the structure and reduce its strength.

Sand is compacted using a hose with a narrow spray nozzle. The procedure must be repeated several times. Bulk material is added each time. The density of filling the assembly joints will ensure the strength and durability of the entire masonry.

Options for laying paving slabs

Paving slabs allow you to create various shapes and patterns on local area. You can use ready-made laying schemes or come up with your own version of the design of a path or site.

The most common options for laying paving slabs:

• herringbone;
• network;
• chessboard;
• random mix;
• circular pattern.

Using colorful elements different shapes, alternating styling options, you can create interesting compositions according to the principle of ordinary mosaics or puzzles.

It is better to perform figured masonry first in an area near the work site. This will allow you to correct individual errors or change something in advance. When the working surface is ready, the tiles are gradually transferred to it and laid in the desired order.

To tile a round area, you need to make a primitive compass from wooden slats with pointed ends. With its help, a circle is drawn on the prepared area on top of the sand cushion. Next, the tiles are laid out from the outer edge to the center of the site.

Use and care

A freshly laid paving slab path will be ready for use 2-3 days after all work is completed. To remove dust and debris, the path is usually swept with a broom and washed with a stream of water from a hose. Deep patterns with bright colors need to be cleaned more often and more carefully than regular masonry.

Sand placed in tile joints, as the path or site is used, it is gradually washed away. Therefore, it needs to be topped up as needed. Damaged structural elements (for example, cracked tiles) are easily replaced with new ones.

Paving slabs are not resistant to mechanical stress, so they cannot be cleaned with abrasive powder. It is better to use sifted river sand.

Do not use strong chemicals to remove stains. A weak soap solution is sufficient. It is applied with a soft brush and then washed off with water from a hose.

In winter, snow and ice must be carefully removed without using metal tools. Can be used with rubber tip. This will save decorative tiles. To prevent the path from being slippery, it should be sprinkled with regular clean sand.