Bathroom renovation procedure. DIY bathroom renovation - The best ways to create a beautiful interior! (71 photos) How to renovate a bathroom

Sometimes people try to save money and do only selective cosmetic finishing in their living space. But this principle is not entirely acceptable for a bathroom or toilet. It is recommended to carry out this procedure to avoid serious costs in the future. This is due to the functionality of the room and the concentration of main communications. It’s about repairs from scratch we'll talk in our article.

What is renovation from scratch?

When they talk about renovation from scratch, they mean all stages of work in the bathroom:

replacement or connection of sewer and water pipes for cold and hot supply;
installing electrics on walls and ceilings;
finishing the walls from the base to the final coating;
floor work from screed to finishing layer;
ceiling finishing;
plumbing installation;
connecting faucets and household appliances;
ventilation system;
installation of an interior door;
installation of bathroom furniture;
filling the space with accessories.

Photos are enlarged, click!

Important! Regardless of the room in which the bathroom renovation is being done ( new flat or secondary), from scratch - this means everything is updated down to the smallest detail. Such renovations require careful consideration at the design stage because costs can vary between completely identical bathrooms. It is during this period that it is necessary to decide on the design of the bathroom and understand what materials and components will be needed for the project.

In new apartments, the developer only does the wiring of communications to the bathroom, and the distribution engineering structures leaves it to the discretion of the residents.
In apartments that have been renovated for more than five years, communications are usually not in the best condition, which requires their replacement to prevent breakdowns. If you do not replace it, it will be a waste and costly to eliminate the consequences in the future. For modern renovation in the bathroom from scratch is acceptable hidden installation communications so as not to spoil the aesthetic appearance of the room. Doing this with old pipes is risky. It is more economical to replace old communications with new ones, not forgetting about plumbing.

Sequence of work when repairing from scratch

Having imagined the scale of work when renovating a bathroom from scratch, you need to draw up an estimate. Without detailed analysis space and drawings on paper it is difficult to make a list necessary materials. If you are far from design-minded and have no experience finishing works, trust the specialists to renovate your bathroom from scratch. Believe me, this option will be cheaper than redoing it after an incompetent master.

When choosing a team, find out the prices of different companies and choose the best option for your budget. Typically, the range of services includes plumbing and electrician work. At self-repair you will have to invite them to connect water, sewerage and electricity.

Important! The timing of a bathroom renovation depends on the condition of the room. If a new floor screed is required, the time frame is long so that the solution has time to dry. It also takes time to dry the walls if the leveling is done with beacon plaster. But to achieve ideal evenness of surfaces is to obtain beautiful walls, floor without level differences.

When a bathroom is being renovated from scratch, there is the possibility of redevelopment:

combine toilet and bathroom;
move the door;
change the geometry of the room to a more functional one;
install a heated floor;
add a heating element;
replace bulky plumbing fixtures with a compact option if the space is small.

Important! The choice of materials must be made in advance, because many are delivered only to order and the lead time can be long. The designer's advice will help you avoid such expectations by offering analogues.

If the renovation is done from scratch, then the choice of style depends on the wishes and tastes of the owner. An important criterion here is the size of the bathroom. Not all styles are suitable for small rooms, but for spacious ones there are a lot of ideas. For any style you can choose how expensive finishing, and budget materials of good quality. And this is an important question when deciding to renovate a bathroom from scratch.

If you are about to make major changes in your bathroom, then you should be patient. certain period. The period depends on the type of work and the experience of the team or home craftsman.

Let's look at the photo:

Video material:

Watch a video of finishing a bathroom from scratch.

I tend to use tiles most often. large sizes- 300 x 900 mm. Each manufacturer has its own format, but I have roughly rounded it up. So, for example, it is best to place the toilet in the center of the tile, and the button wall hung toilet To properly trim, place it on a horizontal seam.

Shells also have many modifications. Standard height- about 85 cm. The sink, namely its center, if it small size, should also be placed either in the center of the tile or along the seam.

The tile size of 300 x 900 mm gives a very specific placement of switches and sockets: 1,050 mm from the finished floor level, in the center of the tile. If the socket is below, near the floor, then 150 mm. It is convenient to make all bindings multiples of these sizes. An electric heated towel rail is then also tied to this height, since they usually have a bottom connection.

By the way, do not take a model with a cord that plugs into an outlet. I use boxes for hidden connection and connect them directly. Do not forget that the connection can be either right or left.

I also recommend not doing the ceiling until you lay out the tiles. I prefer not to trim, I lay out the walls in a precise and complete quantity, say 8 x 300 tiles, not 8.5. And only then do I suspended ceiling from plasterboard.

Do not forget that if, when laying tiles, you make a seam through a cross, then at the top you will gain an extra centimeter of height. Sometimes this is critical. In general, first you need to lay the floor, then the walls. Although the bathroom is a technologically advanced room, one should not forget about its aesthetics. Small tiles make it simpler, while large tiles make it richer.

Renovating the bathroom has been on our plans for a long time, since it was last done 15 years ago. During this time, the bathtub turned yellow, the sewer pipes became clogged, the tiles began to fall off, and the plumbing fixtures became covered with an indelible coating. Therefore, they saved up money, calculated the amount of material, gathered strength and began to repair.

However, first things first. First we turned to repair specialists. Our bathroom is located in an apartment in a house built during the Khrushchev era, when the party and government were faced with the task of quickly resettling Soviet citizens. Therefore, no one cared about comfort, the main thing was to give people a lot of housing, more modest yes smaller in size. For example, our bathroom and toilet measure 1.5 by 1.8 m. And for the renovation of this small area, local craftsmen asked for an amount that we could hardly fit into our heads.

Of course, they can also be understood. There is no work in the provinces (which is where the house of the Khrushchev era is located), so people who did not leave to guard the capital and know how to do at least something took on the renovation of apartments and private houses. And since there are few such people, the demand for their services is high. Prices have skyrocketed, so even for the renovation of a small bathroom they are asking a lot of money, by the standards of the same province. It’s as if the Kremlin Palace is going to be restored. Moreover, the quality of work leaves much to be desired. Even our Uzbek friends no longer want to receive the reward for which just a couple of years ago they were ready to work hard from morning to night.

For comparison, you can view the works of the capital’s craftsmen on the builders’ exchange VotMastera.ru. Prices are an order of magnitude lower than those charged by local repairmen, and the quality of the work performed can be judged both from photos and from customer reviews.

In general, having assessed the volume and specifics of the upcoming work, we decided to do the repairs ourselves. And we will spend the money that could have gone to workers’ salaries on boards and make them at the dacha, and there will be some left over. In this article we will tell you in detail how the repairs were done, attaching many photos.

DIY BATHROOM REPAIR

First of all, let's decide on the scope of work. We decided to do a complete renovation ourselves, replacing everything there: bathtub, toilet, sink, radiator, floor and wall coverings. Everything except , which we recently installed.

First, let's remove the cabinets and shelves, unscrew the screws that held them in place, and remove the sink. We had a heated towel rail, curved like a coil, hanging as a radiator. We will change that too.

If you plan to replace heating batteries, then you need to carry out repairs at a time of year when there is no water in the radiators. Carefully cut off the heated towel rail with a grinder.

Now let's break off the tile. To do this, we will use a hammer drill with a blade-shaped attachment.

Carefully remove all the tiles, being careful not to damage them. It can be useful, for example, for landscaping.

Water entered the bathroom through polypropylene pipes. Let's turn off the tap and dismantle the entire pipeline along with the mixer. To ensure there is a water supply, we will attach a flexible hose to the tap and use it during DIY repairs.

There is a ventilation window under the ceiling, into which a fan was installed and connected to electricity. Below it there is another entrance to the ventilation shaft, where a tin box coming from the kitchen is inserted.

This is how Soviet engineers designed apartments: the kitchen was ventilated through the bathroom. Another architectural masterpiece is the window between the kitchen and bathroom.

In some apartments it is still preserved. They probably made it so that they could take meals and supervise the preparation of dinner. We carefully dismantle the tin box with the fan.

Next in line is the bath. We disconnect it from the sewer and take it out of the room.

A heating pipe is laid underneath it, which goes into the kitchen; a heated towel rail was connected to it. Let's leave a piece long enough to cut the thread, and cut the rest of it with a grinder. We cut the thread with a half-inch tape measure.

The sewerage system installed in the bathroom has been in operation since the construction of the house. It is made of cast iron. Carefully, using a small sledgehammer, knock out the pipes from the entrance to the sewer riser.

They broke it, looked, and were horrified - they were completely clogged. How the water left the kitchen sink remains a mystery.

The last thing we dismantle is the toilet. It was connected to a cast iron elbow, which was inserted into the sewer riser. It took a lot of pain to get this knee out. They did it before in good faith. But there is still no method against a sledgehammer and a crowbar. Just tap on the knee carefully, cast iron is a fragile material. They knocked, twisted, and took it out.

Ceramic tiles were laid on the floor. During the renovation, we also dismantled it using a hammer drill, cleaning the floor down to the cement screed.

Half of the work repairs DIY bathroom completed.

INSTALLATION OF WATER PIPES IN THE BATHROOM WITH YOUR HANDS

The water pipe that we removed during the renovation ran over the wall. From the condensation that collected on it, it turned black. To prevent this from happening again, let's hide it, where possible, in the walls. To do this, use a hammer drill with a spatula attachment to make grooves in the places where we plan to install the pipe. The depth of the groove should be slightly greater than its diameter so that it can be completely plastered. This job is quite dusty, so we recommend closing it cracks under the door with some material. In several places the groove needs to be enlarged so that pipe fastenings can be inserted into the wall.

For the installation of the water supply we chose polypropylene pipes. This is a modern, reliable and durable material with a long service life. To connect them, a special soldering machine with metal tips is used. different diameters. It works like this: we heat the device, simultaneously insert a pipe and a coupling into the nozzles, wait until they melt and connect them together. After a few seconds, when the material has cooled, the connection is ready for use.

Before installing the water supply system in the bathroom with our own hands, we will carefully measure all dimensions and calculate the number of required couplings, angles, stopcocks and fittings. If the connection needs to be made detachable, we use special “American” fittings. With their help, part of the system can be disconnected without destroying it. We will plan the installation of a water meter. We use “American” ones just before and after the meter so that it can be replaced if necessary. We will provide for the installation of a main filter for water purification. We solder in a shut-off ball valve so that you can shut off the water before replacing the cartridge.

After the renovation in the bathroom, we will have 3 water points - one near the sink, another near the bathtub, and a third near the toilet. We will bring cold and hot to two points, and only cold to the toilet. After we fix the polypropylene in the grooves, we screw the valves to the fittings and supply water. It is necessary to check the system for leaks before we begin plastering and tiling work. In our case, everything turned out to be normal, we can start. But before that, we will make some more small grooves to hide in them electric wires. There was an outlet in the bathroom that was too high from the floor. During the repair, we will lengthen the wiring and lower it lower.

We will also supply electricity to the ventilation window and bring out a wire to connect to the lighting lamp.

PLASTERING WALLS

First, we will plaster the window between the bathroom and the kitchen. It has already been sealed on the kitchen side, we will do the same in the bathroom. To do this, cut to the height of the opening aluminum profiles, fasten them to the frame with self-tapping screws.

Cut a piece to fit the window moisture-resistant plasterboard and screw it to the profile flush with the wall.

To make the plaster hold more firmly, we tape the joints with masking tape.

Prepare the solution according to the instructions written on the package with the dry mixture. Place it on a wide spatula and plaster the window.

To make it easier to lay ceramic tiles on the walls, they need to be leveled. If the unevenness is large, you can use plaster beacons, installing them vertically in level. After this, we will cover all the grooves with the mixture, then we will completely plaster everything.

Ventilation windows We will also adjust it to the size of the decorative grilles.

Now you can paint gas pipe, which runs under the ceiling of the bathroom.

LAYING TILES ON WALLS

To decorate the walls in the bathroom, we chose rectangular ceramic tiles. After waiting three days for the plaster to dry, we begin laying.

We will not install tiles under the bathroom. Let's start with the second row. To prevent it from moving, we will secure the rail along its entire length. Prepare the glue by mixing the dry mixture with water. the required proportion mixer. Apply it to the wall with a spatula, level it with a comb over an area equal to the size of one or two pieces and apply the tile, lightly pressing on it.

Thus, slowly, let’s lay it over the entire surface. Special plastic crosses must be installed between the tiles to help control the size of the seams. For beauty, you can glue copies of different patterns or colors,

placing them symmetrically on the walls.

After laying the tiles, wipe it off from any remaining adhesive. Then take the grout of the desired color, mix it with water and carefully rub the seams with a rubber spatula.

First, fill the seam with the mixture in a transverse motion, then level it longitudinally. After a couple of minutes, when the grout has dried, remove its remnants with a dry cloth.

Next, we’ll screw the “American” detachable fitting to it and attach the heating pipe to it.

In place of the old battery, we will hang a new one, providing a shut-off valve in front of it and a Mayevsky valve for bleeding air.

Let's connect the pipes with centralized system heating.

To lay the pipe to the place of its installation,

don't forget to solder the ball valve.

INSTALLATION OF WARM WATER FLOOR

On the bathroom floor we decided to make one powered by a heating system. To do this, during repairs on cement screed we laid welded mesh, attaching it to the floor with dowels and screws.

Before this, the base was treated with a primer. deep penetration to remove dust. For heated floors we will use metal-plastic pipe. Having cut off the required amount, bend it in a zigzag and attach it to the mesh using plastic clamps. Where there will be a toilet and under the bathtub, we won’t install it.

We will connect the metal plastic to the heating system using special corners and fittings. At the entrance to the water heated floor we will install a valve to regulate the water pressure and a Mayevsky tap. We will install a shut-off valve at the outlet. This is done so that the warm water floor can be completely turned off during a possible accident.

After we connect everything into one system, we will fill the base of the bathroom with self-leveling properties. Pour the contents of the bag with the dry mixture into a container with water and mix thoroughly with a mixer. It is imperative to maintain the proportions indicated on the packaging, otherwise the manufacturer of the mixture does not guarantee the declared strength of the self-leveling floor. After pouring the mixture onto the screed, roll it with a needle roller to remove air bubbles.

Having filled the entire area of the bathroom, we rest for three days until the floors are dry and have the necessary further work strength.

After rest, we proceed to the final stage of repair. In ventilation holes install decorative elements and an electric fan by connecting wires to it.

Now the hood is forced to work when the light in the bathroom is turned on. We are installing a new box for kitchen ventilation.

Don't forget to connect the outlet.

The self-leveling floor has dried, so you can lay ceramic tiles on it. Here the technology is the same as when laying it on the walls. Stir the glue, apply it to the base, level it with a comb spatula, and lay the tiles.

As usual, we insert crosses into the seams. To lay tiles in areas where pipes pass, cut off pieces with a tile cutter. Remove excess glue damp cloth. Periodically check the horizontal building level. At the end, we will also rub the seams with grout.

We wait a day for the glue to dry.

Now you can lay the sewer. We will pull it from the kitchen, from the sink, to the riser. Where the bathtub and washbasin will be connected, we will install tees. We will provide a point for draining water from the washing machine. Pipes should be installed with a slight slope so that water flows into the sewer system and does not stagnate in them. For this we will uselevel.

Let's connect the water supply to the entry point. Immediately after the tap we will install a water meter, after which we will install a main water purification filter.

When connecting the meter to the nuts, wind up a thread of flax and lubricate it with sealing paste.

The renovation is slowly approaching completion. Already n the time has come . It is installed on the frame that comes with it. Acrylic bathtubs are a modern industrial product. They are lighter than steel and cast iron, retain heat longer, are silent and practically do not fade.

First we assemble the frame, then we screw the legs to it.

We fix the frame, connect drain fittings and install the bathtub in place. Here we have a slight embarrassment. The bathtub was not installed against the wall, as the width of the room was reduced due to the plaster. I had to sand the corner of the tub a little with sandpaper.

On appearance and this did not affect the strength in any way, but it easily fell into place. Now you can connect it to the sewer. We will install rubberized baseboards on the sides, coating them with sealant.

Next, we will place the floor cabinet together with the sink, connecting the tap to the water supply system, and the drain to the sewer pipe.

Let's connect the mixer near the bathtub.

To install the toilet, you need to make marks where it is attached to the floor,, insert plastic dowels into the holes and secure it with bolts, putting decorative plugs on top of them.

We connect the toilet with sewer riser using corrugation. We connect the water to the tank and the toilet can be used.

We hang a cabinet and a shelf for toiletries on the wall. We connect the shelf to the electrical network.

We will place various convenient little things on the walls.

Bottom acrylic bathtub cover it with a screen and hang a curtain.

Attach the shower stand.

We install the washing machine in place, connecting it to the sewerage and water supply system.

We glue the plinths to the ceiling, hiding the unevenness.

To prevent this from happening in the future, you must first decorate the walls, and then do the ceiling. This completes the DIY bathroom renovation. If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

Video

The bathroom is, first of all, a place where you can relax and pamper yourself with hygiene and beauty treatments. Therefore, its beautiful and comfortable arrangement is of paramount importance! We have collected for you 31 ideas for arranging a bathroom that will not cost you a pretty penny and will please your eyes for many years!

1. DIY shower curtain

To create the curtain of your dreams that would perfectly match your bathroom decor, all you need is a simple cotton fabric, acrylic paints and a little imagination!

2. Cool tile floors become 110% cozier with a pom-pom rug.

Make your morning trip to the sink much more enjoyable. All you need is yarn and a simple mat backing.

3. Pour all your shampoos, conditioners and hair masks into the same bottles for complete harmony

Use small and cute containers. Just not bulky plastic bottles!

4. Convenient organizer for storing small items

It will allow you to save space on your table, and it will be very easy for you to keep it tidy.

5. A mirror in this design will look impressive in any bathroom

6. Use a curved curtain rod

This bar will make your shower more comfortable than a straight bar.

7. Hang two shower curtains to create a special atmosphere

A two-panel shower curtain will make your bathroom look more luxurious. If you have small bath, you can simply cut the curtain in half and hem the edges. As easy as pie!

8. Hang towels on a decorative rustic staircase

A nice little thing: such a piece of furniture is very mobile, and you will not need to drill holes in the walls.

9. You can make your life easier by adding a second curtain rod to your shower.

Besides the fact that it is very convenient, and hung things dry much better.

10. Get a unique spa experience with a pebble mat.

All you need is a rubber mat (with holes for drainage), waterproof sealant and smooth stones.

11. Pour your mouthwash into a carved crystal decanter.

12. Make a cheap and easy tray for drinking wine or reading books in the bathroom.

13. Turn a cheap dresser into a dressing table

14. A brightly colored mirror frame will make a big difference in its appearance.

15. Under-the-sink racks like these will virtually eliminate the clutter in your jars.

16. You can save space in a small bathroom by using hanging jars for storing makeup items.

It is not simple convenient way for storage, but also a beautiful wall decoration!

17. Reliable protection from prying eyes - this is photosensitive paper for contact copying

Pros:

No clutter of curtains.
- Natural light enters the bathroom.
- Such paper can be found in any printing materials store.

18. Store curling irons, straightening irons and hair dryers in a PVC water pipe

The cords no longer get tangled and everything stays in place!

19. Add a little rustic charm with a pallet shelf

20. Your regular vanity can be turned into granite thanks to special paint!

21. Turn an old window into an original medicine cabinet

22. Now in the morning you will remember all your plans thanks to the writing board on the dressing table

You will need a glass frame, white paper and any stencil. Everything ingenious is simple!

23. Fun antlers on the wall as a great alternative to a boring towel hook

24. A glass top vanity allows you to see all your makeup supplies.

A brilliant solution for an original bathroom!

25. Decorate your bathroom walls with geometric mirror accents

Mirror decorations are ideal for making a small bathroom appear larger. For this amazing decoration, you will only need handmade cardboard cutouts for the base and pieces of mirror.

26. Give new life to cheap glass bottles and vases

To do this you will need a spray bottle with milky paint.

27. Update your shelves and brighten them up with your favorite paint color.

Attach labels to your shelves for top-notch order and organization!

28. Add some greenery to bring natural freshness to your bathroom.

But choose plants that suit the bathroom conditions - preferably those that do not need large quantities natural light and which are suitable for a humid environment.

29. The flickering light of the garland will be an excellent decoration for your room in the evening and at night.

You can post any word or any shape you want.

30. Such extraordinary shelves can fit perfectly into any interior

31. And finally, make your bathroom experience a lot more enjoyable with a fun Dino toilet paper holder

Get inspired and experiment with colors and shapes for more coziness, order and comfort in your home!

Are you thinking about renovating your bathroom yourself? This is not surprising, since carrying out the entire repair process yourself will be much cheaper. On average, the possible fee is calculated from half the cost of all necessary materials.

But, of course, you should not think that everything will be simple: you will need to calculate all possible costs, have knowledge and sufficiently high skills, if not in carrying out repairs, then at least in handling tools. If you do not have the above, then it would be better for you to turn to specialists. Think and weigh your decision carefully. Read this article about renovating a bathroom with your own hands, including photos, and then finally make your decision. In it we will dwell in some detail on the production of actions in their chronological order indicating materials and approximate cost costs for necessary materials.

To renovate your bathroom yourself, you will need the following:

Choose plumbing fixtures, decide on their quantity and nomenclature;
Develop a bathroom design and choose the colors you need:
Calculate and purchase the necessary finishing materials;
Prepare the room where repairs will be carried out;
Assess the current condition of the bathroom floor. Decide on the method of repairing it and purchase materials for the work;
Repair the floor. This item will include:
its waterproofing - that is, measures to make the floor waterproof.
replacing the screed, a layer is raised under the screed, created to level the floor, and on which it is usually installed flooring.
floor insulation;
Pipeline laying;
Working with electrical wiring;
Plastering the ceiling and walls;
Wall cladding, grouting and corner sealing work;
Flooring;
Installation ventilation system.
Installation of your chosen plumbing fixtures.

The time you will spend on renovating the bathroom with your own hands starts from 2 weeks, in case of replacing the bathroom and toilet. It will take at least 2 months to replace the floor screed. Let's go directly through the points of the specified plan:

Selection of plumbing fixtures

It’s difficult to talk about specific advice here, since everything will depend on your choice of brand and manufacturer. Let us just mention that when renovating, you should think about what to do with the old bathroom. If it is intact, then below, when considering the issue of preparing the premises, ways to improve it will be indicated.

Project stage

This stage is directly related to the choice of plumbing, since it will affect the complexity and cost of the repair itself. So, the characteristics of the washbasin depend on the shape tile covering walls It will be impossible to provide all the details; this is a topic for a separate article. Keep in mind that when building a house, bathtubs are decorated with the same materials from the same supplier, so the cost of repairs can reach up to 1/5 of the cost of housing. In an ordinary house, it makes no sense to think about a faucet built into the wall, since this possibility is built in during construction, and breaking the wall is an unacceptable option.

Do not use common industrial wood or plain steel parts. Such materials absorb moisture or are prone to corrosion, so using them in a place with high humidity is not justified. For the same reasons, installing sockets and switches in the bathroom is life-threatening. Of course, there are ways to make them, meeting a number of formal requirements, but we will not consider them here. If your apartment has limited space, consider installing a walk-in shower. This will help free up some space in which you can install something more necessary. Think about it and choose a design that you like.

Estimate

It makes no sense to explain why it is necessary to evaluate the equipment needed for repair. Remember that it is wrong to be guided by a lower price when choosing materials for a bathroom renovation with your own hands. There are a number of parameters that are of significant importance, but which are quite difficult to understand without special knowledge. These are the coefficients of moisture absorption, thermal expansion and porosity of the material. Since the bathroom is a place with a lot of variation temperature regime and high humidity, which affects both the strength of materials and the sanitary and hygienic situation in the home, then it would be wrong to proceed from the principle of cheapness.

You most likely will not find some parameters in the material description, so you should select materials directly intended for use in the bathroom. Materials used for outdoor construction may also be suitable, since the conditions of interest to us are similar.

Price for tiles will range from 40 to 60 rubles per piece, depending on the country of origin. The quality of tiles from domestic and European manufacturers on average does not differ from each other, but European samples usually have best design. The situation is the same for floor and wall tiles, the only difference is in size. Porcelain tiles will cost more, from 50 rubles per piece, however, it is recommended to use them for flooring. Unlike usual ceramic tiles They have a non-slip surface and great strength. Considering the rather high traumatic rate of bathrooms in medical statistics, this is an important circumstance. In the store you should pay attention to the condition of the tile surface. The presence of damage on it will lead to the appearance of dirt that cannot be cleaned. To ensure the integrity of the tile you choose, hold it against your face and look at it along the light source. Another factor is the size ratio. If the tiles are different sizes, and this is quite possible, then during installation, the surface will look repulsive, and even if it is not installed, you will have to waste time returning the goods to the seller. To check, take several pairs and place the edges next to each other and take a closer look. The difference in size should not exceed a millimeter. Then test the edges, they should be smooth.
Tile adhesive. Considering that the work of installing the tiles will be carried out by you yourself - best choice The glue will dry slowly, from half a day to a day. This will allow you to correct all possible mistakes made and give you the opportunity to work for your own pleasure. The spatula should be selected specifically for the glue, such information is contained on the packaging. If for some reason the packaging does not contain information about the pitch and depth of the teeth, and the glue itself has proven itself well, then choose a shallow depth of 3 to 6 millimeters. Using a trowel with large teeth will likely cause cavities to appear under the tiles.
Templates for laying tiles. It is best to use plastic crosses because they are easier to work with.
Grout for tiles. It is not necessary to purchase, since a piece of cable 5-6 millimeters in diameter may be suitable for grouting joints.
Glass-magnesite sheet from 250 rubles per 1 sheet.
Laminate from 300 rubles per board.
Self-leveling floor. For a bathroom, it is preferable to use two components, this is an initial viscous pour, then a liquid one for leveling. The approximate price is from 220 rubles per 10 liters, the same with the insulation effect - from 640 rubles per square meter.
Teak or larch floor. If you decide to have a wood floor rather than a tile floor. It will cost more, but it looks and feels nicer. Price from 500 rubles per square meter.
Pipes. The best option is polypropylene pipes: for cold water(PPN) from 24 rubles per square meter, for hot (PPR) from 35 rubles. The choice is due to the fact that working with steel pipes difficult, metal-plastic tends to leak in fittings over time, while polypropylene can be welded and hidden in the wall. Sewer pipes start from 45 rubles. We will also include fittings in this category. Fittings made from solid plastic are most preferred, as this will avoid possible leaks. Switching to metal makes sense when connecting pipes to a boiler. Shut-off valves must be spherical and soldered into plastic. The cost of fittings and fittings will be 60% of the price of pipes. When purchasing, measure the outer diameter of the pipe with a caliper. To work with pipes, diamond drills are required; if the sizes do not match, you will have to buy more, and such drills are quite expensive.
PVA emulsion - from 240 rubles per 5-liter package.
Plumbing. It all depends only on your choice, let’s just say don’t skimp on quality - plumbing fixtures should serve for a long time and conscientiously. When considering options for heated towel rails, it is recommended to choose a stainless steel heated towel rail. Other options are either of unsuitable quality or overpriced. When choosing a faucet, consider purchasing one with an infrared sensor that automatically turns on the water when you raise your hands to a preset temperature setting. You've probably seen this at airports. The mixer, of course, is not the cheapest, but it will allow you to reduce your water costs by half and heating energy costs by 40-45%.

Prices are approximate and based on current market value. Nevertheless, you will be able to somehow navigate these prices and, taking into account the area, calculate the renovation of the bathroom with your own hands. You will not need everything listed directly when performing the work; some of the presented options are alternatives; their choice will be discussed in more detail below.

Let us repeat once again: you should not be guided by cheapness when choosing materials; their use will only complicate the work. When purchasing materials, take into account possible defects and errors in calculations: there is almost always a need for some reserve. So, with tiles it is recommended to have 3-5% of the excess amount. When renovating a small bathroom, you will do a little more - 5-7%. For other materials add 35-40%.

Now let's get down to work.

So, as already mentioned: first of all, the question is in the old bathroom. Cast iron bath can be updated with acrylic or epoxy compound. Installing a new cast iron bathtub will not provide any advantage in quality and service life, and dismantling it and installing a new bathtub is quite labor-intensive. For a tin bath, in the absence of chipped enamel or other serious damage, you can use acrylic liner. At poor condition tin bath, do not hesitate and choose a new one. To renovate your bathroom, you don't need any special skills. The difference between acrylic and epoxy is price and labor intensity; the latter is cheaper, but somewhat more difficult to work with. It is impossible to create an insert yourself - it is manufactured at the factory, where you will have to order it, but the installation technology is as follows:

thoroughly clean and degrease the bathtub;
insert the liner and check that the drain holes are aligned correctly;
double check and apply glue to inner surface baths.

The method is quite expensive, but still cheaper than a new bath.

Turn off the water. Disconnect the cold water line from the flush tank. If you are not going to move out during the renovation, then it makes sense to supply water to the kitchen through a temporary pipeline. Even using an ordinary hose will do, just remember to turn off the water when you are away or at night. The quality, as you understand, of such a system is far from ideal. But otherwise, you will have to go without water for about 10 days, which is an even worse prospect.

Start dismantling everything in the bathroom. Only the walls should remain. Sewage system At this stage, do not touch it yet, plug the heating for the heated towel rail with screw plugs. Next, turn off the power to the bathroom.

Now you can start cleaning the bathroom surfaces. This part of the work is associated with garbage and dust, work with glasses, a respirator and, if you don’t want to clean the whole apartment later, with closed door or film in the opening.

The work starts from the ceiling. For old tiles, use a hammer drill with a concrete chisel. If cement mortar was used to secure it, you will have to remove it completely. Be careful when working on the floor! If your old screed is in good condition, then a hammer drill when removing the cement backing can damage it, and this is unnecessary trouble for you. If there are reasons to preserve the old screed, then use a grinder with a diamond cup. The work will be done more accurately and reduce costs major renovation floors

For the top layer of plaster and old paint use a drill with an 80-100 mm round metal brush. In old houses, the plaster is often weak and must be removed down to the base, be it brick or concrete. It is enough to level a solid one with a drill using a cleaning brush and measuring the level. When working with plaster over electrical wiring in the bathroom, you need a hammer drill with a chisel. Remove the wires. Just in case, tap the walls and try to drill them: in a number of houses of the Brezhnev era, gypsum fiber boards were used for insulation. If you find something like this, you will have to dismantle them. There will be more work, but their replacement is necessary. Be careful when working with the ceiling, it may even collapse. Take care of the supports.

Cleaning completed old tiles removed. Time to clean the floors. After wet cleaning you can begin to inspect the installed screed. The presence of at least one crack will lead to the need to replace it, which means a major overhaul of the bathroom floor. Of course, if the damage is minor, then this can be avoided by using a layer of self-leveling floor. But more on that later. First of all, consider the need to remove old screed and start waterproofing the floor.

In order to waterproof the floor, there are few options: this is aquaizol or its polyester analogue. Conventional film for the bathroom is not applicable, moisture will seep in one way or another, but aquaizol will retain water at any temperature. The insulation should extend at least a quarter of a meter (25 cm) onto the wall, based on its weight. 4000 liters of water per 10 square meters- this is the strength limit of the floor. The folds at the corners should not have cuts. The joints of the waterproofing layer are glued together with mastic or welded using an industrial hair dryer. Practice before doing this kind of welding, it’s not easy.

Having finished with the insulation, proceed to installing a new screed. When assessing possible costs, it was already mentioned required material. This is a glass magnesite plate. Its strength will allow you to install without delay reinforcing mesh and place beacons. There are no alternatives, foam concrete and foam concrete are too fragile, and expanded clay absorbs water. This is an extremely long stage; the new screed must stand for 40 days before you can continue work. Screeds have special requirements for cement mortar:

grade of cement from 400; the sand must be quartz;
sand and cement relate to each other in a ratio of 4:1;
the volume of water must be equal to the volume of cement;
You need to add PVA emulsion to the water in the amount of 1/10 of the volume of water.

The formation of the screed is carried out along the markers in a layer of 4-5 cm. Having leveled the formed surface, bring it to smoothness. Tiled floors require a level base surface for your flooring.

Let's move on to replacing the pipeline. You should start with sewer pipes, since it assembles quite quickly on seals with sealant, one day is enough. Welded joints are not made on sewer pipes. After this, you can begin soldering the water pipes with peace of mind.

How to lay them? IN open form It’s not worth doing, it will bring aesthetic pleasure to few people, making grooves, if you are not familiar with the concept, is a groove in the wall, laid to be able to remove the pipe, a tedious and time-consuming task, and in the case of block houses, the reinforcement cannot be disturbed, yes and she herself won’t let you make the ditch. Nevertheless, there is a solution: the pipes can be run parallel to the floor, and then a galvanized slope can be made on them. Next, using silicone, glue it onto the completed slope. facing tiles to match the color to the future look of the bathroom.

The slope is also glued with silicone to the floor and ceiling, and can be done after the work is completed. If necessary, the silicone can be cut with a mounting knife. With a standard bathroom layout, the length of the slope will be approximately a meter. You still can’t do without grooves, but this is only for vertical installed pipes: for a faucet in the bathroom, if there is one in your bathroom, for a faucet in the washbasin, and a couple more may be provided if the boiler is installed in the bathroom. The pipes in the grooves should be foamed, this will serve as additional protection against fogging and heat loss. Installation process polypropylene pipes is quite simple, the main advantage is that within thirty minutes from the completion of welding the last connection, your piping system can be used. uh

Remember, butt joints between pipes are not allowed. Use fittings and couplings to connect them.

To weld joints you will need: a machine for socket welding of polypropylene pipes; nozzles for the pipes used; pipe cutter; Shaver, chamfer. Metal-plastic is well suited for a heated towel rail. Thanks to its flexibility, the lower fittings will be hidden under the slope, and the position of the upper ones will not change.

It should be laid with a corrugated wire in double insulation. The most commonly used is plastic, its price is low, however, if you are planning to replace the wiring throughout the house, use metal, the wiring will be shielded.

Before starting plastering work, glue the protruding waterproofing to the wall using construction tape; as already mentioned, it cannot be cut. The bathroom is a cramped space, so when applying plaster we recommend using half a rubber ball rather than a trowel. It can be used for any type of work with alabaster, gypsum or hardening compounds. It will be easier to work this way.

The plastering itself must necessarily be carried out along the beacons - for subsequent wall cladding a flat surface is required. It is best to use beacon profiles, which are easy to get at any hardware store. Making beacons yourself is not worth it, you will only waste time and will hardly be able to achieve a smooth surface. The plastering sequence is usual, from the floor to the ceiling. Apply two layers - for the conditions of the bathroom with its changes in humidity and temperature, this form will be the strongest.

Ceiling insulation is required not to maintain temperature conditions, but to prevent future problems that will certainly arise if condensation deposition is not stopped. The best option would be to use a glass-magnesite sheet; unlike the floor, the LSU will be bonded to the surface of the ceiling with silicone or assembly adhesive. While working, use slats as supports, about 1-2 per meter of ceiling. Do not remove them before the glue dries.

Having finished with insulation, we move on to adding gloss, although this gloss has a functional meaning as condensation. A good option is a material such as plastic lining or laminate. Don't worry about the reliability of the material. Moisture-resistant glue, even if it peels off in part of the ceiling, will not lead to collapse - since the boards are connected to each other, forming a single integral structure. After completing the ceiling work, you will begin cladding the walls. The laid tiles will serve as a support for the laminate.

When preparing the material, follow these points:

processing the reverse side of the PVA material with emulsion;
the installation itself is carried out using assembly adhesive or construction silicone;
the ridge of the tongue, which refers to the protrusions by which the boards are connected, as well as the method of such connection itself, a thin layer of glue is applied, its drips must be removed immediately.

Table vinegar is suitable for silicone; solvent is suitable for glue. Please note - the last two laminate boards should be laid together, fold them like a house and insert, pressing on the joint until it snaps into place. Don't forget about supports until the glue hardens.

Corners should be sealed with silicone to prevent moisture from penetrating under the ceiling sheathing. When making holes for wiring, do not make them at the junction of laminate boards. I think you understand why. Once you've finished covering the ceiling, foam the hole or fill it with silicone.

Of course, there are other options. But self-production suspended ceilings often unjustified, and we will not describe its methods here. If you wish to do this, please read the selection criteria. It is also possible slatted ceiling– is also a very common option, but its production is the topic of a separate article.

Tiles are usually used for wall cladding. Porcelain tiles have similar properties, but are more expensive; the advantages that were mentioned when choosing tiles for the floor do not matter for walls. Bathroom wall covering spreads plastic panels, it is quite cheap and meets the rules of hygiene, but in this article we will not consider techniques for working with such material.

When laying tiles on walls, the joints must be cut. To do this, crosses are used, inserted between the tiles using glue and immediately removed as described above. The adhesive is applied using longitudinal strokes of a spatula, with an average tile size of 30 by 30 centimeters - 0.25-0.35 square meters each. The presence of voids under the tiles is unacceptable, so apply glue so that the rustications are parallel to each other and not too deep. Each tile you lay should be tapped next to it with a rubber hammer from the previous tile to the free edge. On those tiles that will go to the outlets of the wiring pipes, you need to pre-drill holes with a diamond core bit. Once the glue has set, seal the corners with silicone. The method is simple - a thin polyethylene film is applied to the silicone, then a piece of electrical cable is applied.

Apply pressure and then remove any silicone streaks with vinegar. A smooth concave surface should form. If desired, the corner seam can be covered with a decorative overlay using the same silicone. On a plane, seams are cut using a special compound, which is cheaper than silicone. The cross is removed, the remaining seam is filled and pressed down with a cable - the film is not necessary in this procedure - the drips are removed. Do not cut the seams with your finger - there will be irregularities inside the seam that are invisible to the eye, in which dirt tends to accumulate. The technology for laying wall and floor tiles does not differ in itself; a small feature for the floor will be discussed in the next section.

Please note that if you use a mixer with decorative caps, then you should buy a crown larger diameter than pipes. Otherwise, you will have to measure the places for the holes, which requires jewelry work.

There are two tile options for the floor - the reasons why porcelain tiles better than tiles, or wooden floor.

In the case of a wooden floor, the procedure will be more expensive, but the result will be more pleasant. The boards should be selected tongue-and-groove; the installation procedure will be similar to the ceiling, but leaving a distance of 2-2.5 centimeters from the wall. This space is designed for swelling of the boards. Do not leave cavities; fill the gaps with polystyrene foam before installing the baseboard. A wooden floor coated with PVA emulsion and liquid acrylic varnish will last a very long time.

Regarding tiles, installation should be done from the door so that the cut tiles are located under the slope or bathtub, where they will not be visible. This last row of cut slabs is laid last after the glue has hardened under the other slabs, so as not to disturb the previously done work. The only difference from laying on the wall is the absence of seams - the tiles are adjusted to each other.

First of all, inspect the box that was removed in preparation for the repair. Often, after cleaning and repainting, they are suitable for further use. Just install it back. It will be better if you additionally install a flapper valve in it to avoid cold air flows into winter time. It is recommended to install a fan for the ventilation system; this will ensure better air circulation in the apartment and prevent fungus from appearing on the walls.

It has no fundamental features. Often with new products you can even find instructions on the sequence of actions for its installation. Your actions include installing a bathtub (you won’t be able to do it yourself without an assistant) or a shower stall, as well as a sink. Then come the faucets, then the water meter. If you wish, you can connect a water heater to your bathroom.

It is permissible to install such stationary electrical appliances in the bathroom as exhaust fan, the cord must be three-core, have protective conductor and a Euro plug with a sealed entry into the housing, and ceiling lamp, requiring waterproof performance. Washing machine– a topic for a separate discussion, since it does not apply to stationary devices.

All were dismantled necessary steps for DIY bathroom renovations. Watch the video where the bathroom renovation procedure is described step by step. We did not mention bathrooms combined with a toilet due to the numerous features of the work and approximately twice the complexity of repairing two separate rooms, this topic needs to be discussed separately. As you can see, the procedure is labor-intensive, and if you are unsure of your skills, then it is better not to take it.

It is better to entrust this labor-intensive and rather lengthy procedure to specialists. They know exactly how to do everything right. But you should still familiarize yourself with all aspects of a bathroom renovation for a better chance of completing the entire renovation procedure successfully and without complications.

At the very least, after reading this article, you will be able to monitor the work of the performers whom you decide to entrust with bathroom renovations. On the other hand, if you are confident of success, go ahead! Repair costs will be reduced significantly. For more successful DIY bathroom renovation, we recommend that you watch a video on this procedure.